The fluid leaks out the seal in the back down the rod and into the car on the floor under the carpet, at least that's what happened to my 1962 mercury comet, same as a mustang.
Good vid, but the job is harder than it looks. It would help if you slowed down and showed how to connect the MC to the pedal rod. Disconnecting the MC from the pedal assembly is a real pain. Unless you have the body of a 13 year old gymnist and can contort your body into every shape imaginable, it's best to remove the driver's side seat so you can crawl under the steering wheel to find the allusive brake switch and get to the near invisible cotter pin. The video skipped that part. Finally, good luck getting the push rod free from the piston. Finally gave up and spent $50 on a new one. This job is way tougher than the video makes it look.
Thanks for showing this. Looking at the video it appears you have new hardware, new bolts for the Master cylinder. If so…might you have a link to the bolts?
I'll bet I have the exact same master cylinder in my 1965 Ford Custom (Galaxie) - no brake booster. I replaced the crusty old master cylinder with a new one and bled the brakes - twice. The old brake fluid started out very dark and after the second bleed it was almost as light as new brake fluid. BUT, I lost brake pedal. I don't know what happened. I went and bought one of those syringe bleeders where you suck out the brake fluid from the exit port - push the plunger up to expel the air - and then push the fluid backwards through the exit port into the bowl. Well, I can't push the fluid backwards into the bowl. I tried it on the old master cylinder and it worked okay but not on the new unit. The air should come out of the hole closest to the exit port. I even tried 100 psi air pressure and couldn't blow it back through the exit port into the bowl. Any ideas what could be wrong? I took a screwdriver and it pushed against something that was spring-loaded okay. It was stiffer than on the old master cylinder but it still moved. But I can't get air pressure or the syringe loaded with fluid to move the internals. Am I going to have to get under the dash and disconnect the new master cylinder and take it out for examination? Or, do you have some magical fix that you can pass along to me?
Copper nickel brake lines are 90% strength of steel, acceptable. Whereas straight copper is unacceptable. Straight copper looks more like a penny and the copper nickel stuff is more silver copper colored and over time it gets a rusty thin brown tarnish
Why replace the single reservoir? My Falcon had one and tried to kill me! The dual gives the safety in knowing if front fails you got rear brakes and vice versa.
Pete, copper is soft for use in brake systems. What are your thoughts on the nickel/copper alloy tubing that is commonly sold as easy bend brake line? Thanks.
Even though there was no sign that the fluid leaked out of the system, I would still have bled the lines anyway. Also, I would have replaced all of the fluid with DOT-5 silicone fluid. If the master cylinder was in that bad a shape, the fluid might have been contaminated and could be causing corrosion in the wheel cylinders.
Great comment Steve. At the end of last summer I made new brake line from the block all the back to each wheel cylinder and to the fronts. I purged and changed the fluid then. It was only dirty in the master cylinder and line leading to the distribution block
It's a helluva job getting the push rod disconnected from the peddle assembly. I suggest removing your driver's seat so you can get under the steering column to find the tough to locate, let alone access cotter pin. Then, once the MC is finally out of the car, forget trying to get the push rod out of the piston assembly. I finally ordered a new one for $50 from Scott Drake. Very tough job if you are not used to unseen roadblocks.
Hey brother, Love your videos!!! Question.... What are your thoughts “today” on the husky 1025 piece tool set you demoed a while back? I’m looking at that set and trust your opinion.
Ugh, watched this literally just to see how the back of the cylinder attaches through the firewall and Pete skips right past the only thing I was worried about. :(
@@PetesGarage Everything else I read said there's a triangular spring clip behind the firewall that you can either struggle with under the dash or just disconnect the assembly from the brake pedal and pull the whole thing out from the back. You may have gotten lucky and whoever worked on the car before you never re-installed the spring clip (also common from what I understand). Sorry, wasn't being critical.
There is a very small clip on the end of the push rod that goes into the master cylinder. It is there to keep the rod engaged in the piston, but that comes out fairly easily. Other than that the clip on the brake switch are the only ones I've seen. I'll have to look into it, thanks
The only way to get that little clip to disengage from the piston in the master cylinder is to take the snap ring out pull the whole piston out with the rod and take it over to a grinder and carefully grind two sides of the aluminum piston all the way down to the rod and break the remainder off. If you choose to rebuild your master cylinder the kit comes with a new piston. Make sure you measure the bore size of the cylinder before you order the rebuild kit from Rockauto or npd.
@@PetesGarage well considering im the only person I've ever seen who removed their brake system for weight reduction, imma have to say im the only real man left.
The fluid leaks out the seal in the back down the rod and into the car on the floor under the carpet, at least that's what happened to my 1962 mercury comet, same as a mustang.
That is one way they fail
I put a new master cylinder on my 63 comet and the same leak happened right away. Raybestos brand now made in China.
Working in your socks?!? Damn! Your wife is gonna have a fit! LOL! Just kidding!!
I was making video in my socks for that portion....lol
Those single reservoir master cylinders are dangerous
I still may change to a dual
Surprised you don’t convert to a dual master.
That may be in the future, right now I wanted to get it on the road
Thanks Pete for showing me how to do this for my 1963 Ford T Bird! I appreciate you & your video! 🙌
Glad to help
you should have replaced it with a duel master cyl there much safer.
I still may do that, just wanted to get it on the road.
Old cars are so easy compared to newer cars with ABS braking.
Absolutely!
Good vid, but the job is harder than it looks. It would help if you slowed down and showed how to connect the MC to the pedal rod. Disconnecting the MC from the pedal assembly is a real pain. Unless you have the body of a 13 year old gymnist and can contort your body into every shape imaginable, it's best to remove the driver's side seat so you can crawl under the steering wheel to find the allusive brake switch and get to the near invisible cotter pin. The video skipped that part. Finally, good luck getting the push rod free from the piston. Finally gave up and spent $50 on a new one. This job is way tougher than the video makes it look.
Happy Saturday Pete's Garage!
Woo hoo!
I’ve got a 66 289 A code with all non-power single circuit drums
Nice!
So soothing with the jazz in the back ground great video.
I like it too
Thanks for showing this. Looking at the video it appears you have new hardware, new bolts for the Master cylinder. If so…might you have a link to the bolts?
You can get them at any hardware store
I'll bet I have the exact same master cylinder in my 1965 Ford Custom (Galaxie) - no brake booster. I replaced the crusty old master cylinder with a new one and bled the brakes - twice. The old brake fluid started out very dark and after the second bleed it was almost as light as new brake fluid. BUT, I lost brake pedal. I don't know what happened. I went and bought one of those syringe bleeders where you suck out the brake fluid from the exit port - push the plunger up to expel the air - and then push the fluid backwards through the exit port into the bowl. Well, I can't push the fluid backwards into the bowl. I tried it on the old master cylinder and it worked okay but not on the new unit. The air should come out of the hole closest to the exit port. I even tried 100 psi air pressure and couldn't blow it back through the exit port into the bowl. Any ideas what could be wrong? I took a screwdriver and it pushed against something that was spring-loaded okay. It was stiffer than on the old master cylinder but it still moved. But I can't get air pressure or the syringe loaded with fluid to move the internals. Am I going to have to get under the dash and disconnect the new master cylinder and take it out for examination? Or, do you have some magical fix that you can pass along to me?
It sounds like the check valve is plugged from something in the old dirty fluid
Copper nickel brake lines are 90% strength of steel, acceptable. Whereas straight copper is unacceptable. Straight copper looks more like a penny and the copper nickel stuff is more silver copper colored and over time it gets a rusty thin brown tarnish
Thanks Mike
Why replace the single reservoir? My Falcon had one and tried to kill me! The dual gives the safety in knowing if front fails you got rear brakes and vice versa.
I'm going to do that when I put on front discs
Pete, copper is soft for use in brake systems. What are your thoughts on the nickel/copper alloy tubing that is commonly sold as easy bend brake line? Thanks.
I've used the easy to bend stuff. I worked fine when I used it
Even though there was no sign that the fluid leaked out of the system, I would still have bled the lines anyway. Also, I would have replaced all of the fluid with DOT-5 silicone fluid. If the master cylinder was in that bad a shape, the fluid might have been contaminated and could be causing corrosion in the wheel cylinders.
Great comment Steve. At the end of last summer I made new brake line from the block all the back to each wheel cylinder and to the fronts. I purged and changed the fluid then. It was only dirty in the master cylinder and line leading to the distribution block
Pete, What is the part number or what is the part number you recommend to replace the OEM ?
Raybestos MC32900
So do I just unplug the thing behind the reservoir? I'm at that part and not sure what to do
Yes
It's a helluva job getting the push rod disconnected from the peddle assembly. I suggest removing your driver's seat so you can get under the steering column to find the tough to locate, let alone access cotter pin. Then, once the MC is finally out of the car, forget trying to get the push rod out of the piston assembly. I finally ordered a new one for $50 from Scott Drake. Very tough job if you are not used to unseen roadblocks.
Read my comment for kylerjones it will explain properly how to do it. You need to undo the rod off the pedal where the break light switch is.
Hey brother,
Love your videos!!! Question....
What are your thoughts “today” on the husky 1025 piece tool set you demoed a while back? I’m looking at that set and trust your opinion.
Every tool I have used so far has worked great, and I use them quite often. Lots great tools in there I needed in a pinch
@@PetesGarage thank you sir!!!
Hey Pete can you make a video explaining choosing master cylinder size ?
That's a great idea, thanks
Excellent. Thank you, sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Ugh, watched this literally just to see how the back of the cylinder attaches through the firewall and Pete skips right past the only thing I was worried about. :(
There are nuts installed in the metal, you should not have to hold anything from the back
@@PetesGarage Everything else I read said there's a triangular spring clip behind the firewall that you can either struggle with under the dash or just disconnect the assembly from the brake pedal and pull the whole thing out from the back. You may have gotten lucky and whoever worked on the car before you never re-installed the spring clip (also common from what I understand). Sorry, wasn't being critical.
There is a very small clip on the end of the push rod that goes into the master cylinder. It is there to keep the rod engaged in the piston, but that comes out fairly easily. Other than that the clip on the brake switch are the only ones I've seen. I'll have to look into it, thanks
The only way to get that little clip to disengage from the piston in the master cylinder is to take the snap ring out pull the whole piston out with the rod and take it over to a grinder and carefully grind two sides of the aluminum piston all the way down to the rod and break the remainder off. If you choose to rebuild your master cylinder the kit comes with a new piston. Make sure you measure the bore size of the cylinder before you order the rebuild kit from Rockauto or npd.
@@kylerjones4411check my comments for help.
Good stuff. I am a towel.🤪
Thanks Towlie
Was that brake line a 3/16?
Yes
Thank you! This will help me big time
Glad to hear it!
Real men don't have brakes on their car
Are there any real men anymore?....lol
@@PetesGarage well considering im the only person I've ever seen who removed their brake system for weight reduction, imma have to say im the only real man left.
I removed the driveshaft for weight reduction
@@PetesGarage there ya go, that what I like to hear good shit