For those interested, if you crush these ingredients with a mortar and pestle, DO NOT USE ONE MORTAR AND PESTEL FOR ALL INGREDIENTS. To be absolutely safe, acquire multiple mortars and pestles to crush the individual ingredients, and then mix them separately. Be sure to lable your Mortars and your pestels so you dinae accidentally blend the different ingredients together while crushing, as a combination of the wrong ingredients WILL result in some lost eyebrows at best, or a fragmentation bomb at worse. It is also advisable to mix primer compound AWAY from any other explosive or emflammable compounds, as accidents WILL happen. One bit of static zap or one random bolt falling on your tool shelf, or just mixing your chemicals a little too vigorously, and BOOM. Primer compound is a HIGHLY VOLATILE explosive, a little bit made at a time will go a long way. DO NOT MIX UP AND KEEP A 5 GALLON BUCKET OF READY PRIMER COMPOUND ‘FOR LATER USE”.. Dinae even mix up a Pound of the stuff to make primers in one sitting. Keep your batches SMALL. The last thing you want is to try making a pound of primer compound in one sitting, and be remembered as ‘the bloke who vaporized himself and blew up his garage.” by your neighbors and remaining relatives… Keep all that in mind, and you can enjoy making thousands of primers for years to come. Happy reloading, and keep your fingers attached.
I like ball mills in place of mortar pestals. I used separate jars and non ferrous balls. I still use a brass powder measure for reloading black powder cartridge rounds. I always wore a static ESD bracelet when working on fireworks. Remember that primer compound is insanely sensitive so no mondo cans of the stuff laying about. Mix only what you need. No More
@@UnknownGamer40464 Yrs it would.Water in a ball mill decreases the effectiveness of it though. You just have to grind the materials separately. Also. there is no need for a ball mill anyway, when reloading primers or making percussion caps you don't need much primer composition, so it is better (and much safer) to make small amounts at a time.
(For anyone that wants to copy and paste the ingredients). 9gr Antimony sulfide 3gr Sulfur 4gr Very Fine Ground Glass 0.2gr sodium Bicarb 0.2gr Aluminum powder 17gr Potassium Chlorate (mixed extra carefully). then the liquid is 7 parts acetone, 1 part shellac. I'm not certain what shellac is though. I believe it's a natural chemical from an insect that is used in clear coat and nail polish. Also, make sure you watch the video to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. This isn't directions. It's just the ingredients.
@@ommsterlitz1805 Do you know what's in commercial primers? Many have lead and mercury. I was told that modern one's didn't, but when I tested some myself (including percussion caps), they all either had mercury or lead. I didn't have any clean or "green" ammo to test though.
The 'shellac' is most likely cellulose laquer - it has the same chemical composition as single base smokeless powder, the major difference lies in the amount of solvent used in the end product, hence it burns very well.
@@deucedeuce1572 Modern non-corrosive primers are lead styphonate unless they are marked lead free. Mercury fulminate are corrosive primers commonly used outside of the US (or used to be pretty common)
@@tomhubbard353 Is mercury fulminate corrosive? I've done research on it before, but honestly can't remember. I believe percussion caps (both old and new) contain mercury fulminate, but they could also be leas styphnate. Some people say nitrocellulose was used also, but I don't think I've ever been able to confirm that. I have confirmed though that it is impact sensitive. I just don't think it's sensitive enough or hot enough (or slow enough) to be used as a percussion cap though. (and definitely not a primer being ignited with a firing pin).
@Andrew Michaels I have a really good safety consideration if you don't mind my chime. When you are mixing this stuff, use acetone especially while you are pressing it all in. The acetone will dry rather quickly, and it will not have any negative effects on your primers.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 Yes it does. It is much easier to mix a little acetone in the primer comp, then use tweezers to grab each primer cup and use it as a scoop. A very good method to make percussion caps, a variant of the method should work just fine for primers.
Seems to me that using a mortar and pestle on each ingredient separately before mixing would alleviate that chopping and mashing and probably deliver a finer and more homogeneous mixture.
good luck fnding that third compound, hell good luck just finding plain ol' black powder. I haven't seen (retail price, not bunker price) percussion caps in over 2 years. thinking i might try to revolutionize the industry before the EMP locks down most all commercial commodities
@@ColMason Glad the percussion cap and black powder prices have come down a lot in the last couple months. Have found some for fair(ish) prices recently.
SEPARATELY MOST DEFINITELY, I know of a 3 1/2 fingered friend whom would definitely advise against mixing together, He attempted once just once with prime all large batch, flames got 1 finger, infection set in hospital had to remove part of another. Yes I am evil I laughed my ass off. He even admits thinking back he realizes it was dumb, stupid to try a pressure sensitive friction sensitive material mix in a mortar and pestle not the rational, sane approach.
If you are just breaking up clumps, folding it in a sheet of paper and rolling over it with a small pill bottle works good, and make sure everything is powdered finely before mixing anything. The final mixing can be done in a small pill bottle as well, just tape it to the end of a broom stick. And he needs to fire them in this video!
You really need to make a 100 capacity plate set for charging with powder, packing and seating the anvils. You can charge and seat anvils in 100 primers in 3 - 5 minutes safely and uniformly. It's a scaled down factory method and it works perfectly.
I have reloaded a few primers, going through test stages. for the paper disks tolit paper, but I just pulled anvils out of 100 small rifle primers and CAREFULLY took a big sewing needle scraping out primers. only one went off . will load back in small pistol primers. testing Walmart cap gun, the kind that are a eight shot plastic ring . it is very unforgiving but easy to get propellant out. also iam testing the 22 cal loads for shooting nails into concrete such as sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot .they are a real pain . I use nail sets , smallest first to open crimped shells, then every size till I can take needle nose pliers and break peace’s off to where I can properly scrape propellant out of bottom and sides. it takes forever but decide after testing what works best for you and have a blast. Nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well . if you have a adjustable lighted magnifying desk model that folds, that’s awesome because my older eyes plays tricks on me and it’s a big help.
Nice recipe and process. But guys, you don’t compress the compound inside the caps in the same table where the rest of the compound is. Actually no hard instrument should cross above the ready compound batch. Powdered glass makes this stuff really unstable, and its not safe to even have a chance to drop something over it.
@@deucedeuce1572 not sure, but the bullet going off might no be the major problem. The big deal is to drop any hard instrument over the primer compound. This stuff is really sensitive, and the pile could go off just by dropping your watch/cellphone/screwdriver over it, even if not being inside a primer case.
I agree, I would definitely get some more space between my bulk compound and the work area BUTTT I believe when the acetone wets the mixture is severely desensitizes it making it considerably safer. As I understand it and have watched documentaries on the subject, commercial lead styphonate primers are "charged" with a slurry that is acetone and LS. They squeegee the cups full in a "punched plate" of a 100 at a time I believe, then paper and anvil added while wet.
Something about the paint brush along with all of the “happy” and “unhappy” chemicals talk got me wondering if the ghost of Bob Ross was somehow being channeled here.
You may want to consider trying EPH 20 (and the EPH 2x series of compounds). This series of compounds are non-corrosive, and don't become shock sensitive until AFTER you have filled the primer cup; a drop of 50/50 alcohol/water is applied to the primer cup after both the cup is filled with compound and the anvil has been seated. When the water dries, the compound turns into a hard, concrete-like disk (meaning no need for a paper disk, too), and becomes shock sensitive. The base EPH 20 compound is perfect for small pistol primers, with the later EPH 2x series being great for magnum pistol primers, large pistol primers, small rifle primers, and of course large rifle magnum primers. The EPH 2x series is easily made from readily available materials. There is one lab process required, but if you can boil water, you can do the lab. There are also tools out there now that allow you to easily reload 100 primers in a few minutes.
@@rodrigocirilo7343 Every commercial primer sold today, whether in commercially purchased ammo itself or primers for reloading, contain the exact same lead substances as the EPH series of primer compounds.
@@rodrigocirilo7343 And it is very easy to take precautions to not be exposed to lead, those being the exact same precautions I use when casting my own bullets. The majority of lead exposure happens when the gun is fired, as the lead in the priming compounds is atomized, making it far more of an inhalation risk than the possibility of exposure when making leaded priming compounds. This is why indoor ranges have to meet such stringent ventilation requirements.
Rimfire priming compound will work just fine. You will need the anvils back in your primers, unless you're reloading Berdan-primed cases, which have the anvils built into the cases.
Considering how I got a 5 minute Tinnitus after someone shot an empty, primed cartridge next to me, you might want to not have the big ass pile of powder next to where you're working on priming, pushing the anvils,... And: grounding against static electricity could also save your fingers. But: very interesting. I don't reload or plan on doing anything like that, but still: very interesting
Weird how that one that went off was *that* silent. Are these DIY primers that much weaker than factory primers? Some .22 indoor rounds only use the rimfire primer without powder to get the bullet to deform into the rifling and go all through the barrel fast enough for target shooting, and I already mentioned my ears ringing from a primed empty case without powder or bullet being fired. These seem *WAAAY* less energetic
@@braindecay9477 It depends on how you load them. Percussion caps can sound louder than commercial caps if you load them with a generous amount of primer mix. I am not certain if there is room for a generous load in a primer since there needs to be room for the anvil.
I feel like you're a modern day Bob Ross since you keep saying "mix all those happy colors" 😄 (I know no one can replace the OG Bob Ross, but I just wanted to say that.) 😂
That is a massive mix of those chemicals. I've seen what smaller amounts do. I was on the edge of my seat, watching, and when your phone went off, I jumped out of my skin.😂 It was a good unintended jump scare.
Those large magnifier lights that clamp on your desk are a godsend! I used a florescent one for detailed electronics work/mods. The newer ones are led's but go for the largest lens and whitest light you can. Their usually around $20 - 30.00 and well worth it even for photagraphy. And detail work really. My eyes have gone downhill over the years and the first thing you need even before glasses is GOOD lighting. Lol
What if you spray a little acetone/shellac in the happy mix first just to damp the powder before you put the potassium?? That would make it more stable and safer surely! Just enough spray to make it like a screed mix dry/damp not drenched of course.
Also, the reason I clicked on this video was because I was watching how a shotgun works, (even though I already know, but I was bored lol) and it showed me the primer of a shotgun shell and what was inside it. One of the things that stuck out to me was the priming compound, which I thought was intriguing because I was also wondering what the compound was made up of, so that's the main reason I clicked on this video. 😄
@@hhhd-fo8en yes it is lol, that would be way better than to actually but them. I actually saw a machine at Academy Sports and Outdoors where they have it, but I just have to figure out how to use it lol. 😂
That is quite a lot of priming compound to make at once. To understand what that stuff can do set the whole amount off with some fuse. It is surprising how much of the paper is destroyed. There is another priming compound recipe that produces a lead double salt that is entirely inactive until a small drop of water is placed in each completed primer - there is no handling of active explosive. It is also non corrosive. The preparation is much more complex than this simple mixture. Not impossible though, even without chemistry training.
@@deucedeuce1572 I believe the primer mix is eph 20 - lots and lots of stuff on Aardvark reloading - here's a video on the hardest part of making it (not too hard though) -ua-cam.com/video/YHE9KsImws4/v-deo.html - This isn't the best video to start but I happened to find it - Aardvark reloading and eph 20 is enough to find everything though. Also here is a primer composition text that you will like. www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html Here is a primer course pdf - aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202019-06-28.pdf I think you will really like this one.
PS after you mix the composition you assemble the primers dry. The composition is not explosive at this point because the last chemical reaction does not occur until a tiny drop of water and isopropyl alcohol is added to the primer, which is then set aside to dry and then you are good - when dry you have an effective non corrosive primer.
...last year I bought a large quantity of those Pop Its...kids noisemakers from the days of my yout' wonder if they could be used as a basic porosity compound???
If you ever work with very fine aluminum powder, you have to be careful. It can be a very dangerous thing to work with if you don't know the dangers and how to avoid them. I'd even say it's the most dangerous of ingredients in this video. In any case, definitely do some research on the safety/dangers of aluminum powder and the other ingredients (either alone or mixed)... and don't work with them until you have learned and understand them. (I only learned after doing stupid/ignorant/dangerous things and am lucky that I was never hurt).
Yep. Ask the Germans about using aluminum powder in their doping mixture they painted on the Hindenburg to make it shine...........one reason it burned so quickly.
@@seawolfinternational5481 Yeah, aluminum powder is also part of many explosive mixtures. Things like KNO3 and many other chemicals mixed with aluminum powder become explosive... and there are also many thermite (and thermate) mixes with aluminum.
Could the unhappy powder be mixed in a slurry of say pure alcohol (say everclear) and then put in as a putty/honey consistency before putting in the anvil (this way it's a wet compound and the alcohol would evaporate out
The commercial producer I saw made trays of 1,000. It was plastic with shallow holes the size of the cups. A small vacuum pump held them in, and a small wand would suck up the backward cups. Then, he opened a plastic tub and used a plastic putty knife to smear the compound into them evenly. A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled. Slid into place, and the paper between pulled out. Rolled and let dry.
Can you elaborate on, “ A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled” I don’t understand this part. Also, do you have any diagram or more information regarding the commercial producer?
@George Echeverri the producer was Federal I believe. The plate for the anvils was very thin. Only the thickness of one anvil. A quantity was poured over it and wiped until one was in every hole.
Did you make the attachment for your press that your using to push the anvil into the cup? If so could you make a video on how you made it or instructions, or where you got it?
Unless you're reloading Berdan primers and cases, nothing. Boxer primers must have the anvil. Berdan primed cases (usually, steel) have the anvil inside the primer pocket. They also require some specialized tools to deprime such as a hydraulic deprimer.
@@rifleshooter2 if u take a matchbox with matches. you can utilize those components to make primer compound. chemically very similar to this eccept the initiation is diffrent i think..
What is the purpose of the powdered glass? Is it so there's more hard pieces to rub against the actual compound within the powder? Also would fumed silica work?
no. Potassium chlorate is poisones. you mean KCl chlorate is KClO3. you can it make from kcl with an graphit anode + and nickl or iron kathode - with 5 volts and place both elektrode very close to gether under one inch.
While I was quite the shooter in my youth, it was always with factory made, modern primers. I never had a hobby cannon, etc. I know that modern primers have an anvil as part of their design, but why do you need them here? Won't the paper disk along with shellac hold them together? And if I may ask, what is the difference between a friction primer and a regular primer that's used in a modern gun? Yours look the same. (Though I am sure modern primers don't contain glass.) I assume what happens with this friction primer is the ground glass becomes hot due to friction when the primer is "struck" and the heat sets off the unstable "stuff" in the mixture? Lastly, I assume all the chemicals can be purchased at a chemical supply house? By the way, shellac is used to treat the areas of wood where the grain changes direction. You apply the shellac and it prevents that area from absorbing as much stain. If you don't used shellac, the downward curve of your stock will be noticeably darker after applying the stain. Learned that the hard way when I sanded down the stock of my Ruger 10/22 to treat some deep nicks and lighten the stocks tone a few shades. I always thought the stock a bit too dark for my taste. Live and learn- I was no less proud of my first "gunsmithing" job, lol. I actually used that little carbine to compete against bolt action target rifles. While they of course beat me, it was not by much. They were shocked at how accurate that rifle was. The instructor was really impressed and asked me what my technique was. Being a kid, I had no technique, lol. I just knew that the Ruger 10/22 was a great gun. He said that if I put target sights on it, I could likely be as good or better than the bolt action 22s I competed against- pretty good for a carbine! Anyway, thanks so much for this! I had no idea you could make your own primers- friction or otherwise.
Someone has been watching to much of Mr. Rodgers Neighborhood and Bob Ross. Would it be safer to add the ground glass last? Its the abrasive used to trigger the reaction.
What are the last things you put in. Sounded like "anvils " what are they and where do you get them ? Why are they necessary? Thanks. New to blabk powder an learning as much as i can.
It is unless you are willing to pay the outrageous prices people are paying for primers. Used to be able to buy small pistol primers (1000) for under $25.00 less than a year ago. I looked this morning on Ammoseek and found large pistol primers going for around $250.00 for 1000!!! I'm not willing to spend that kind of money if I can make my own for less, much more less!!
I have been reloading for 25 years, and YES, this is where we are now. After the scariest summer riots last year since the 1960's, there are more than 10 million new gun owners who are now buying all the ammo in sight, and a new anti gun administration in DC who will gladly limit any access to guns or ammo, YES we are here. At least there are men like Andrew who are helping us deal with it. Get used to it, this ammo shortage is real will probably be here until there is new leadership in DC. This is like it was when Obama was president, only worse.
@@mikenalasco6423 Man I hope you're wrong but I don't think you are! I've only been at this for 2 years. Had no idea this kind of B.S. goes on in the guns and ammo business.
After watching this video I am faced with a decision. Do I want to try this? Or Do I want to set my hair on fire and best it out with a tac hammer? Mmmmmm after much deliberation I’m off to look for a match. Very interesting indeed, thanks for sharing, but it’s not for me
Would it not be better to use the little poppers you buy for 4th of july then mix finely ground gunpower with it then add it to the primer case the poppers compound would give it shock ignition and GP would give it the power it need to set off the charge
Those paper twisted poppers usually contain very course quartz rock in them. I always thought it was their sparks which set them off. Definately not the same as very fine powdered glass.
@dananorth895 im not sure i understand, i mean i get that it is diffrent but the goal is not to make it the same but rather to achieve the same effect IE detonate the charge without damage using the same method Is it that the compound in those poppets are not able to be detonated from compression impact in a primer case or am i missing the point here In my mind those poppers are shock sensitive its the same compound thats in those toy gun blasting caps, meaning they will detonate with shock applied but i doubt it has the power alone needed to detonate a cartridge so alittle GP mixed in would give it the needed power
Not the same stuff as toy caps. Silver acetylide iirc. Extremely small amounts used, far too unstable and too little explosive used to work in primers. The filling is gravel, you can't grind the gravel so it will fit into a primer, the silver acetylide will go off every time, it will not work at all. Feel free to try it if you have some poppers - the only use of silver acetylide is in poppers, there is nothing else it will work for, it is far too unstable except in microscopic amounts coating the gravel in poppers, there is barely enough to pop the paper covering of the poppers and make noise. If a small amount was added to the primer ingredients to sensitize them the primers would be dangerously unstable. They can add absolutely nothing useful to primer formulations.
@@rifleshooter2 Do you know if it makes a big difference using a finer grain powder ? Aardvark recipe shows 60-100 mesh that converts to 150-250 microns . Smaller the grains the faster the or hotter burn rate ?
@@kmackiss 0.2gr aluminum flake is not for burn rate. Rather to make hot incandescent particles to ignite spherical powders reliably. Check aardvarkreloading.com
@@petruse8893 lead azide can ve made from stibnite, nitric acid, and sodium azide. perhaps one shouldnt assume others exp or knowledge of complete strangers? go check out the sciencemadness website and forums. lots of educational information there on organic chemistry.
It seems to me ,that you have no idea what lead azide is and stibnite as well.The first contains lead and nitrogen in a very unusual compoundwhich is salt of lead and HN3 acid ,the second is a sulfide, which is also salt of antimony and H2S.Unless you are deep into alchemy and know the magic formula for transmutations,making lead out of antimony is not possible,more so turning H2S into HN3 is a sorcery on a cosmic scale
i came back here to ask another question about substituting lead picrate for the chlorate and saw your reply...i was confusing stibnite for metallic lead. likely tired when i wrote my reply. anyway in answer to your original question. nitric acid and metallic lead to obtain lead nitrate, then its a simple substitution reaction with water solutions of lead nitrate and sodium azide. lead azide will precipitate out. likely leaving behind a contaminated sodium nitrate solution. the hard part of course is obtaining the sodium azide. there are a couple sources like early airbags or synthesizing it from hydrazine sulfide, that said its all pretty toxic synthesis. i found the lead picrate route to be fairly simple enough starting with ASA to picric acid then lead nitrate to lead picrate ..fairly easy relatively safe with proper PPE. so anyway have a nice day and again, you assume much. but do you have anything useful to contribute like an informative answer to substitution of corrosive chlorates with lead picrate?
Materials needed: a) Potassium Chlorate powder, b) Antimony Sulfide powder, c) Sulfur powder, d) finely ground glass preferably pyrex (consistency of flour) or grit, e) Sodium Bicarbonate powder (i.e. baking soda), f) Scale that weighs in grains, g) plastic weighing boats, h) SS or plastic spatula for transferring chemicals, i) plastic spoon, j) bamboo skewer with a flat end and a powder scoop carved on the other end, k) paper disks punched out of ordinary copy paper that will fit inside the primer cup, l) dilute shellac solution in denatured ethyl alcohol (~1 part shellac in 10 parts of alcohol but the exact concentration is not critical), m) Aluminum powder (60-100 mesh) optional, n) needle nose pliers, and o) small rod or tiny screwdriver (diameter of shaft ~1/16” or smaller) 1. Using 4 plastic weigh boats and a suitable scale, weight out the following materials: a. Boat 1, 17.0 grains of potassium chlorate, b. Boat 2, 9.0 grains of antimony sulfide, c. Boat 3, 4.0 grains of ground glass, and d. Boat 4, 3.0 grains of sulfur, 0.2 grains of sodium bicarbonate (helps stabilize the mixture on extended storage) and 0.2 grains of aluminum powder The aluminum powder is optional, but provides extra incandescent particles to help ignite slower gunpowders. Aluminum powder is commonly used in commercial Magnum primers for this same purpose.
@@rifleshooter2 Dang Thank you. You went above and beyond on your response I’ve just been using Caps and Strike anywhere matches till now ( I can’t get the strike anywhere’s to go off ) but the caps seem to be pretty reliable. I soak the paper caps in water for a few minutes then scrape the paste into the 22 brass, drop of acetone and let it dry overnight. But i want to make actual priming compound . hopefully i can find this stuff in Canada
@@rifleshooter2 Does it matter if I use Antimony(III) Trisulfide (what you appear to be using here, Sb2S3) or Antimony(V) Pentasulfide (a red powder, Sb2S5)? I ask because I bought the Pentasulfide before I realized that there were two different Antimony Sulfides, but everyone seems to be using the Trisulfide. :( Thanks!!
I mean, you don't need to clean between shots, or speed 100mph home to clean the firearm before it falls apart, but yes, the salts (sulphur and potassium chlorate) form sulphuric and hydrochloric acids when exposed to water, which the fouling in the bore/surfaces exposed to combustion gasses, will absorb out of the air. The gun won't rust apart on you in a couple days, but the corrosion damage is cumulative, so just make sure to clean it after every shooting session. Most priming made prior to the 1970's was made with compounds similar to this, and most of those arms are just fine so long as they were maintained. That's why the AR10 and Ar15 gas tubes are stainless and the gas system on the Kalashnikov pattern rifles is easily removed for cleaning, lessons learned from earlier self-loading military rifles (gas systems aren't generally disassembled in the field)
Can you get flint or marcasite to make flints? I think jasper (and a couple other cryptic quartz minerals like onyx) works to make flints too but I'm not sure. What do you figure on, 20 shots per flint?.
The viscosity and final hardness may affect the final efficientcy of ignition. Shellac is a waxy product made from insects, beetles I believe or their shells. A pine resine if mixed thin enough might work. Both are cut/thinned by acetone/alcohol/turpentine, and have a unique characteristic of stopping stain bleed through (like wall stains from mold, tannins, dyes, chalk etc.) they are a good base sealer around primer and bullet to case joint for waterproofing ammo. Although I have used paint pens for that purpose with some success.
For those interested, if you crush these ingredients with a mortar and pestle, DO NOT USE ONE MORTAR AND PESTEL FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.
To be absolutely safe, acquire multiple mortars and pestles to crush the individual ingredients, and then mix them separately.
Be sure to lable your Mortars and your pestels so you dinae accidentally blend the different ingredients together while crushing, as a combination of the wrong ingredients WILL result in some lost eyebrows at best, or a fragmentation bomb at worse.
It is also advisable to mix primer compound AWAY from any other explosive or emflammable compounds, as accidents WILL happen.
One bit of static zap or one random bolt falling on your tool shelf, or just mixing your chemicals a little too vigorously, and BOOM.
Primer compound is a HIGHLY VOLATILE explosive, a little bit made at a time will go a long way. DO NOT MIX UP AND KEEP A 5 GALLON BUCKET OF READY PRIMER COMPOUND ‘FOR LATER USE”..
Dinae even mix up a Pound of the stuff to make primers in one sitting. Keep your batches SMALL.
The last thing you want is to try making a pound of primer compound in one sitting, and be remembered as ‘the bloke who vaporized himself and blew up his garage.” by your neighbors and remaining relatives…
Keep all that in mind, and you can enjoy making thousands of primers for years to come.
Happy reloading, and keep your fingers attached.
I like ball mills in place of mortar pestals. I used separate jars and non ferrous balls. I still use a brass powder measure for reloading black powder cartridge rounds.
I always wore a static ESD bracelet when working on fireworks.
Remember that primer compound is insanely sensitive so no mondo cans of the stuff laying about. Mix only what you need. No More
Oh yeah i remember making crystal based ones and i burnt my hair a bit
would mixing them wet make it safer?
@@UnknownGamer40464 Yrs it would.Water in a ball mill decreases the effectiveness of it though. You just have to grind the materials separately. Also. there is no need for a ball mill anyway, when reloading primers or making percussion caps you don't need much primer composition, so it is better (and much safer) to make small amounts at a time.
the real reason Bob Ross is missing part of a finger. "Happy little chemicals"
I was just gonna ask if anyone else got that Bob Ross vibe, lol. Must have been deliberate. This is really calming to watch. Yet...such suspense...
You stole my line! 😜
ghehehe
It’d probably be the unhappy little chemicals, lol
😂😂😂
(For anyone that wants to copy and paste the ingredients).
9gr Antimony sulfide
3gr Sulfur
4gr Very Fine Ground Glass
0.2gr sodium Bicarb
0.2gr Aluminum powder
17gr Potassium Chlorate (mixed extra carefully).
then the liquid is 7 parts acetone, 1 part shellac.
I'm not certain what shellac is though. I believe it's a natural chemical from an insect that is used in clear coat and nail polish. Also, make sure you watch the video to make sure I didn't make any mistakes. This isn't directions. It's just the ingredients.
Antimoine ? ok i'm not doing this anymore lol
@@ommsterlitz1805 Do you know what's in commercial primers? Many have lead and mercury. I was told that modern one's didn't, but when I tested some myself (including percussion caps), they all either had mercury or lead. I didn't have any clean or "green" ammo to test though.
The 'shellac' is most likely cellulose laquer - it has the same chemical composition as single base smokeless powder, the major difference lies in the amount of solvent used in the end product, hence it burns very well.
@@deucedeuce1572 Modern non-corrosive primers are lead styphonate unless they are marked lead free. Mercury fulminate are corrosive primers commonly used outside of the US (or used to be pretty common)
@@tomhubbard353 Is mercury fulminate corrosive? I've done research on it before, but honestly can't remember. I believe percussion caps (both old and new) contain mercury fulminate, but they could also be leas styphnate. Some people say nitrocellulose was used also, but I don't think I've ever been able to confirm that. I have confirmed though that it is impact sensitive. I just don't think it's sensitive enough or hot enough (or slow enough) to be used as a percussion cap though. (and definitely not a primer being ignited with a firing pin).
@Andrew Michaels I have a really good safety consideration if you don't mind my chime. When you are mixing this stuff, use acetone especially while you are pressing it all in. The acetone will dry rather quickly, and it will not have any negative effects on your primers.
ترکیبات رادرست توضیح نمیدهید
@@حمیدرضارضوییThere is a language barrier
He adds acetone at 10:00.
@@Toimu13yeah, but after mixing. Doing it before stabilizes the mixture and makes it easier to put in the primer cups.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 Yes it does. It is much easier to mix a little acetone in the primer comp, then use tweezers to grab each primer cup and use it as a scoop. A very good method to make percussion caps, a variant of the method should work just fine for primers.
Seems to me that using a mortar and pestle on each ingredient separately before mixing would alleviate that chopping and mashing and probably deliver a finer and more homogeneous mixture.
It does
And save a lot of “happy chemicals” comments!
good luck fnding that third compound, hell good luck just finding plain ol' black powder. I haven't seen (retail price, not bunker price) percussion caps in over 2 years. thinking i might try to revolutionize the industry before the EMP locks down most all commercial commodities
@@ColMason Glad the percussion cap and black powder prices have come down a lot in the last couple months. Have found some for fair(ish) prices recently.
SEPARATELY MOST DEFINITELY, I know of a 3 1/2 fingered friend whom would definitely advise against mixing together, He attempted once just once with prime all large batch, flames got 1 finger, infection set in hospital had to remove part of another. Yes I am evil I laughed my ass off. He even admits thinking back he realizes it was dumb, stupid to try a pressure sensitive friction sensitive material mix in a mortar and pestle not the rational, sane approach.
Didn't know Bob Ross made primers! Great video.
If you are just breaking up clumps, folding it in a sheet of paper and rolling over it with a small pill bottle works good, and make sure everything is powdered finely before mixing anything.
The final mixing can be done in a small pill bottle as well, just tape it to the end of a broom stick.
And he needs to fire them in this video!
I always new that my Berdan brass would come handy one day.
You really need to make a 100 capacity plate set for charging with powder, packing and seating the anvils. You can charge and seat anvils in 100 primers in 3 - 5 minutes safely and uniformly. It's a scaled down factory method and it works perfectly.
I have reloaded a few primers, going through test stages. for the paper disks tolit paper, but I just pulled anvils out of 100 small rifle primers and CAREFULLY took a big sewing needle scraping out primers. only one went off . will load back in small pistol primers. testing Walmart cap gun, the kind that are a eight shot plastic ring . it is very unforgiving but easy to get propellant out. also iam testing the 22 cal loads for shooting nails into concrete such as sold at Lowe’s and Home Depot .they are a real pain . I use nail sets , smallest first to open crimped shells, then every size till I can take needle nose pliers and break peace’s off to where I can properly scrape propellant out of bottom and sides. it takes forever but decide after testing what works best for you and have a blast. Nana and papa aka the hunter wishing you well . if you have a adjustable lighted magnifying desk model that folds, that’s awesome because my older eyes plays tricks on me and it’s a big help.
Use a littl acetone while you mix and it becomes more stable till it dries.
This is an a very good point! Not only for this but when messing with ANY explosive mixtures. Bravo!
Correct Bravo
You can use a 3 inch drywall screw to remove anvils easily.
this looks so satisfying to watch
Nice recipe and process. But guys, you don’t compress the compound inside the caps in the same table where the rest of the compound is. Actually no hard instrument should cross above the ready compound batch. Powdered glass makes this stuff really unstable, and its not safe to even have a chance to drop something over it.
Would it go off if the bullet was dropped with a completed primer installed?
@@deucedeuce1572 not sure, but the bullet going off might no be the major problem. The big deal is to drop any hard instrument over the primer compound. This stuff is really sensitive, and the pile could go off just by dropping your watch/cellphone/screwdriver over it, even if not being inside a primer case.
I agree, I would definitely get some more space between my bulk compound and the work area BUTTT I believe when the acetone wets the mixture is severely desensitizes it making it considerably safer. As I understand it and have watched documentaries on the subject, commercial lead styphonate primers are "charged" with a slurry that is acetone and LS. They squeegee the cups full in a "punched plate" of a 100 at a time I believe, then paper and anvil added while wet.
Yeah thats why you make small batches and use common sense 😂
First start by passing each ingredient through it's own sieve mesh, 200mesh would be great. This way you take the lumps out before you mix anything.
Something about the paint brush along with all of the “happy” and “unhappy” chemicals talk got me wondering if the ghost of Bob Ross was somehow being channeled here.
Maybe
You may want to consider trying EPH 20 (and the EPH 2x series of compounds). This series of compounds are non-corrosive, and don't become shock sensitive until AFTER you have filled the primer cup; a drop of 50/50 alcohol/water is applied to the primer cup after both the cup is filled with compound and the anvil has been seated.
When the water dries, the compound turns into a hard, concrete-like disk (meaning no need for a paper disk, too), and becomes shock sensitive.
The base EPH 20 compound is perfect for small pistol primers, with the later EPH 2x series being great for magnum pistol primers, large pistol primers, small rifle primers, and of course large rifle magnum primers.
The EPH 2x series is easily made from readily available materials. There is one lab process required, but if you can boil water, you can do the lab.
There are also tools out there now that allow you to easily reload 100 primers in a few minutes.
don't forget to say that lead salts are poisonous and carcinogenic
@@rodrigocirilo7343 Every commercial primer sold today, whether in commercially purchased ammo itself or primers for reloading, contain the exact same lead substances as the EPH series of primer compounds.
@@floorpizza8074 however you are not directly manipulating it, like when you do EPH!
@@rodrigocirilo7343 And it is very easy to take precautions to not be exposed to lead, those being the exact same precautions I use when casting my own bullets. The majority of lead exposure happens when the gun is fired, as the lead in the priming compounds is atomized, making it far more of an inhalation risk than the possibility of exposure when making leaded priming compounds. This is why indoor ranges have to meet such stringent ventilation requirements.
Bob Ross of primer reloading..."Happy little chemicals...Happy little trees"
Awesome vid. I'm glad people are working on this. Could I use rimfire primer and skip putting anvils back?
Rimfire priming compound will work just fine. You will need the anvils back in your primers, unless you're reloading Berdan-primed cases, which have the anvils built into the cases.
Considering how I got a 5 minute Tinnitus after someone shot an empty, primed cartridge next to me, you might want to not have the big ass pile of powder next to where you're working on priming, pushing the anvils,...
And: grounding against static electricity could also save your fingers.
But: very interesting.
I don't reload or plan on doing anything like that, but still: very interesting
Weird how that one that went off was *that* silent. Are these DIY primers that much weaker than factory primers?
Some .22 indoor rounds only use the rimfire primer without powder to get the bullet to deform into the rifling and go all through the barrel fast enough for target shooting, and I already mentioned my ears ringing from a primed empty case without powder or bullet being fired.
These seem *WAAAY* less energetic
@@braindecay9477 It depends on how you load them. Percussion caps can sound louder than commercial caps if you load them with a generous amount of primer mix. I am not certain if there is room for a generous load in a primer since there needs to be room for the anvil.
This is wonderful.
Have you looked into doing the mixing wet?
I feel like you're a modern day Bob Ross since you keep saying "mix all those happy colors" 😄 (I know no one can replace the OG Bob Ross, but I just wanted to say that.) 😂
That is a massive mix of those chemicals. I've seen what smaller amounts do. I was on the edge of my seat, watching, and when your phone went off, I jumped out of my skin.😂 It was a good unintended jump scare.
It is far too much to be safe. That much can do serious damage.
I just can't imagine working with something this small although I have saved thousands of primers, I hope I never have to resort to making them.
Those large magnifier lights that clamp on your desk are a godsend! I used a florescent one for detailed electronics work/mods.
The newer ones are led's but go for the largest lens and whitest light you can. Their usually around $20 - 30.00 and well worth it even for photagraphy. And detail work really. My eyes have gone downhill over the years and the first thing you need even before glasses is GOOD lighting. Lol
What if you spray a little acetone/shellac in the happy mix first just to damp the powder before you put the potassium??
That would make it more stable and safer surely! Just enough spray to make it like a screed mix dry/damp not drenched of course.
Also, the reason I clicked on this video was because I was watching how a shotgun works, (even though I already know, but I was bored lol) and it showed me the primer of a shotgun shell and what was inside it. One of the things that stuck out to me was the priming compound, which I thought was intriguing because I was also wondering what the compound was made up of, so that's the main reason I clicked on this video. 😄
its a sign from god that u should make your own bullets and firearm😂
@@hhhd-fo8en yes it is lol, that would be way better than to actually but them. I actually saw a machine at Academy Sports and Outdoors where they have it, but I just have to figure out how to use it lol. 😂
Is it just me or does him breaking up the chunks of “unhappy” chemical sound a lot like Bob Ross brushing in some happy little trees?!
Funny you said that I was thinking the same thing. LoL
Looks like that is a huge batch. Danger danger danger.
To much work! Thanks 4 your time!
That is quite a lot of priming compound to make at once. To understand what that stuff can do set the whole amount off with some fuse. It is surprising how much of the paper is destroyed.
There is another priming compound recipe that produces a lead double salt that is entirely inactive until a small drop of water is placed in each completed primer - there is no handling of active explosive. It is also non corrosive. The preparation is much more complex than this simple mixture. Not impossible though, even without chemistry training.
I would greatly appreciate anything that could help me find that info online.
@@deucedeuce1572 I believe the primer mix is eph 20 - lots and lots of stuff on Aardvark reloading - here's a video on the hardest part of making it (not too hard though) -ua-cam.com/video/YHE9KsImws4/v-deo.html - This isn't the best video to start but I happened to find it - Aardvark reloading and eph 20 is enough to find everything though.
Also here is a primer composition text that you will like.
www.bevfitchett.us/chemical-analysis-of-firearms/priming-compositions.html
Here is a primer course pdf - aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade%20Primer%20Course%202019-06-28.pdf I think you will really like this one.
PS after you mix the composition you assemble the primers dry. The composition is not explosive at this point because the last chemical reaction does not occur until a tiny drop of water and isopropyl alcohol is added to the primer, which is then set aside to dry and then you are good - when dry you have an effective non corrosive primer.
even I would wear a face shield for this
...last year I bought a large quantity of those Pop Its...kids noisemakers from the days of my yout' wonder if they could be used as a basic porosity compound???
If you ever work with very fine aluminum powder, you have to be careful. It can be a very dangerous thing to work with if you don't know the dangers and how to avoid them. I'd even say it's the most dangerous of ingredients in this video. In any case, definitely do some research on the safety/dangers of aluminum powder and the other ingredients (either alone or mixed)... and don't work with them until you have learned and understand them. (I only learned after doing stupid/ignorant/dangerous things and am lucky that I was never hurt).
Yep. Ask the Germans about using aluminum powder in their doping mixture they painted on the Hindenburg to make it shine...........one reason it burned so quickly.
@@seawolfinternational5481 Yeah, aluminum powder is also part of many explosive mixtures. Things like KNO3 and many other chemicals mixed with aluminum powder become explosive... and there are also many thermite (and thermate) mixes with aluminum.
It's bad to get on your skin also. There's a reason they stopped using trace amounts in deodorant... Definitely would be wearing gloves.
How do you load for rifle primers? or do you load all your primers the same and hope for the best? Thanks,.
Could the unhappy powder be mixed in a slurry of say pure alcohol (say everclear) and then put in as a putty/honey consistency before putting in the anvil (this way it's a wet compound and the alcohol would evaporate out
It could be I haven't tried it
you can also use acetone,denatured alcohol!
Everclear has alot of taxes because its a beverage. Buy denatured alcohol from hardware store. Avoid taxes.
Acetone works for this, it evaporates quicker than alcohol but is as flammable as gasoline.
"Happy little chemicals... "
-Bob Ross, if he worked with the Weathermen
The commercial producer I saw made trays of 1,000. It was plastic with shallow holes the size of the cups. A small vacuum pump held them in, and a small wand would suck up the backward cups. Then, he opened a plastic tub and used a plastic putty knife to smear the compound into them evenly. A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled. Slid into place, and the paper between pulled out. Rolled and let dry.
Can you elaborate on, “ A plate with holes through it the thickness of the anvils was filled” I don’t understand this part. Also, do you have any diagram or more information regarding the commercial producer?
@George Echeverri the producer was Federal I believe. The plate for the anvils was very thin. Only the thickness of one anvil. A quantity was poured over it and wiped until one was in every hole.
Did you make the attachment for your press that your using to push the anvil into the cup? If so could you make a video on how you made it or instructions, or where you got it?
I feel like you're giving away the secret formula 😂
My advice, be sure and wash your hands thoroughly before taking a leak! 😂
Hell, listening to you made me think I was watching Bob Ross with all of the "happy chemicals", lol
Lol
Nice thank you for sharing your thoughts with us.
I have question.. what will happen
if I didn't add the anvils.
I don't know.
Nothing.
The anvil provides the firing pin a point of impact to ignite the the primer compound.
Without it nothing will happen.
Unless you're reloading Berdan primers and cases, nothing. Boxer primers must have the anvil. Berdan primed cases (usually, steel) have the anvil inside the primer pocket. They also require some specialized tools to deprime such as a hydraulic deprimer.
Then you have a percussion cap, suitable for use on your favorite muzzleloader.
There's a reason they call it an anvil......what is the sound of one hand clapping?
Fantastic!
so how did you make the cups and anvil
this guys like the pyro bob ross lol. all the happy little chemicals
It's like watching Bob Ross give a class on H48 creation.
When does he beat the devil out of it?
That's what i thought happy little chemicals lol
Any reason you couldnt mix this wet with alcohol? I am assuming that the alcohol would make i inert while wet.
Woah woah woah, wait a minute!
Are those pajama pants? 😎
Great video sir!
Thanks!
Wouldn’t it be safest to add the ground glass as the final ingredient? Just a though.
That’s what I do. Nothing will happen without the “striking” agent.
@@6Sally5 It detonates just fine without the glass.
very Bob Ross ish.. as well as educational
this is basically matchbox compound?
I don't know what matchbox compound is.
@@rifleshooter2 if u take a matchbox with matches. you can utilize those components to make primer compound. chemically very similar to this eccept the initiation is diffrent i think..
What is the purpose of the powdered glass? Is it so there's more hard pieces to rub against the actual compound within the powder?
Also would fumed silica work?
It acts as a frictioning agent
Is the potassium chlorate the same as the stuff the sell as a nutritional supplement?
no. Potassium chlorate is poisones. you mean KCl chlorate is KClO3. you can it make from kcl with an graphit anode + and nickl or iron kathode - with 5 volts and place both elektrode very close to gether under one inch.
What attachments did you use for your press to set the anvil in the cup?
The punch from my Lee .451 sizing die and a piece of steel threaded to fit the press
@@rifleshooter2 any leads on where to get the threaded steel?
@@jasongilley4032 I threaded it on my lathe
@@rifleshooter2 right on! I'll take 2 haha. Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work!
interesting thought, comparison of H-48 and Prime All both are respective and awesome, so a VS video not so much just compared to video...
does making your own primers save any money?
While I was quite the shooter in my youth, it was always with factory made, modern primers. I never had a hobby cannon, etc.
I know that modern primers have an anvil as part of their design, but why do you need them here? Won't the paper disk along with shellac hold them together?
And if I may ask, what is the difference between a friction primer and a regular primer that's used in a modern gun? Yours look the same. (Though I am sure modern primers don't contain glass.)
I assume what happens with this friction primer is the ground glass becomes hot due to friction when the primer is "struck" and the heat sets off the unstable "stuff" in the mixture?
Lastly, I assume all the chemicals can be purchased at a chemical supply house?
By the way, shellac is used to treat the areas of wood where the grain changes direction. You apply the shellac and it prevents that area from absorbing as much stain. If you don't used shellac, the downward curve of your stock will be noticeably darker after applying the stain.
Learned that the hard way when I sanded down the stock of my Ruger 10/22 to treat some deep nicks and lighten the stocks tone a few shades. I always thought the stock a bit too dark for my taste. Live and learn- I was no less proud of my first "gunsmithing" job, lol.
I actually used that little carbine to compete against bolt action target rifles. While they of course beat me, it was not by much. They were shocked at how accurate that rifle was. The instructor was really impressed and asked me what my technique was. Being a kid, I had no technique, lol. I just knew that the Ruger 10/22 was a great gun. He said that if I put target sights on it, I could likely be as good or better than the bolt action 22s I competed against- pretty good for a carbine!
Anyway, thanks so much for this! I had no idea you could make your own primers- friction or otherwise.
Someone has been watching to much of Mr. Rodgers Neighborhood and Bob Ross.
Would it be safer to add the ground glass last? Its the abrasive used to trigger the reaction.
What if you can’t get anvils? What could be used instead?
Let's put a happy little tree here.
What is your failure rate for the two methods for 100 loaded? Thanks.
10%
@@rifleshooter2 That is on par with some factory made primers
Gently shaking in an antistatic bag
Results in very good incorperation and your not inhaling toxic antimony
What are the last things you put in. Sounded like "anvils " what are they and where do you get them ? Why are they necessary? Thanks. New to blabk powder an learning as much as i can.
..the Bob Ross of primer compound ...
that would look fun for me to do.
Is this seriously where we're at now?
Yes it is
It is unless you are willing to pay the outrageous prices people are paying for primers.
Used to be able to buy small pistol primers (1000) for under $25.00 less than a year ago.
I looked this morning on Ammoseek and found large pistol primers going for around $250.00 for 1000!!!
I'm not willing to spend that kind of money if I can make my own for less, much more less!!
I have been reloading for 25 years, and YES, this is where we are now. After the scariest summer riots last year since the 1960's, there are more than 10 million new gun owners who are now buying all the ammo in sight, and a new anti gun administration in DC who will gladly limit any access to guns or ammo, YES we are here. At least there are men like Andrew who are helping us deal with it. Get used to it, this ammo shortage is real will probably be here until there is new leadership in DC. This is like it was when Obama was president, only worse.
@@mikenalasco6423
Man I hope you're wrong but I don't think you are!
I've only been at this for 2 years. Had no idea this kind of B.S. goes on in the guns and ammo business.
Don’t worry, it’s going to get worse.
After watching this video I am faced with a decision.
Do I want to try this?
Or
Do I want to set my hair on fire and best it out with a tac hammer?
Mmmmmm after much deliberation I’m off to look for a match.
Very interesting indeed, thanks for sharing, but it’s not for me
What will you do if primers or ammo can't be found due to shortages etc?
Got a chrono? I'm wondering about velocity consistency
Wate what kind of sulfied the first sound you spoke seemed low. Something.
Are they corrosive? Thanks for the video
Yes they are
Would potassium Nitrate Sub for the Chlorate ?
I do not believe so
Unstable
@@thomaswallace3987 I thought Chlorate was the unstable one ?
Why do you need ground glass?
It is to help the compound fire, by providing friction
@@rifleshooter2 Ah ok I guess that makes sense.
Was that 6:1
Acetone 6
Shellac 1
?
Correct
I like your cup jig that's a good idea
Would it not be better to use the little poppers you buy for 4th of july then mix finely ground gunpower with it then add it to the primer case the poppers compound would give it shock ignition and GP would give it the power it need to set off the charge
Those paper twisted poppers usually contain very course quartz rock in them. I always thought it was their sparks which set them off. Definately not the same as very fine powdered glass.
@dananorth895 im not sure i understand, i mean i get that it is diffrent but the goal is not to make it the same but rather to achieve the same effect IE detonate the charge without damage using the same method
Is it that the compound in those poppets are not able to be detonated from compression impact in a primer case or am i missing the point here
In my mind those poppers are shock sensitive its the same compound thats in those toy gun blasting caps, meaning they will detonate with shock applied but i doubt it has the power alone needed to detonate a cartridge so alittle GP mixed in would give it the needed power
Not the same stuff as toy caps. Silver acetylide iirc. Extremely small amounts used, far too unstable and too little explosive used to work in primers. The filling is gravel, you can't grind the gravel so it will fit into a primer, the silver acetylide will go off every time, it will not work at all. Feel free to try it if you have some poppers - the only use of silver acetylide is in poppers, there is nothing else it will work for, it is far too unstable except in microscopic amounts coating the gravel in poppers, there is barely enough to pop the paper covering of the poppers and make noise. If a small amount was added to the primer ingredients to sensitize them the primers would be dangerously unstable. They can add absolutely nothing useful to primer formulations.
Is powdered glass not a respiratory hazard like asbestos?
I'm sure it is.
"we'll just paint a happy little chemical, yep, he lives right there, mhm"
What aluminum powder did you use , was it just aluminum powder or was it Magnesium-Aluminum ? Great info thank you .
Just aluminum powder
@@rifleshooter2
Ok , on skilighter they didn't show just aluminum powder. I will look else where for just aluminum powder . Thank you
@@kmackiss must be out
@@rifleshooter2 Do you know if it makes a big difference using a finer grain powder ? Aardvark recipe shows 60-100 mesh that converts to 150-250 microns . Smaller the grains the faster the or hotter burn rate ?
@@kmackiss
0.2gr aluminum flake is not for burn rate. Rather to make hot incandescent particles to ignite spherical powders reliably.
Check aardvarkreloading.com
could you substitute lead azide for the potasium chlorate so as to make a non-corrosive primer?
I don't know
and where one would get lead azide? When offering an advice do not offer wikipedia articles. It is better to stay silent
@@petruse8893 lead azide can ve made from stibnite, nitric acid, and sodium azide. perhaps one shouldnt assume others exp or knowledge of complete strangers?
go check out the sciencemadness website and forums. lots of educational information there on organic chemistry.
It seems to me ,that you have no idea what lead azide is and stibnite as well.The first contains lead and nitrogen in a very unusual compoundwhich is salt of lead and HN3 acid ,the second is a sulfide, which is also salt of antimony and H2S.Unless you are deep into alchemy and know the magic formula for transmutations,making lead out of antimony is not possible,more so turning H2S into HN3 is a sorcery on a cosmic scale
i came back here to ask another question about substituting lead picrate for the chlorate and saw your reply...i was confusing stibnite for metallic lead. likely tired when i wrote my reply. anyway in answer to your original question. nitric acid and metallic lead to obtain lead nitrate, then its a simple substitution reaction with water solutions of lead nitrate and sodium azide. lead azide will precipitate out. likely leaving behind a contaminated sodium nitrate solution.
the hard part of course is obtaining the sodium azide.
there are a couple sources like early airbags or synthesizing it from hydrazine sulfide, that said its all pretty toxic synthesis.
i found the lead picrate route to be fairly simple enough starting with ASA to picric acid then lead nitrate to lead picrate ..fairly easy relatively safe with proper PPE.
so anyway have a nice day and again, you assume much. but do you have anything useful to contribute like an informative answer to substitution of corrosive chlorates with lead picrate?
Tidious work in our new; exercised form of; Freedom to be "independant of, Gov control attemps. Thanks.
What kind of shellac to get? The chips to make my own or, the kind that comes in can for varnishing from the paint stores?
Bullseye Shellac is what I use
Is there any way you can reply to this with the name of the first ingredient?
Materials needed: a) Potassium Chlorate powder, b) Antimony Sulfide powder, c) Sulfur powder, d) finely ground glass preferably pyrex (consistency of flour) or grit, e) Sodium Bicarbonate powder (i.e. baking soda), f) Scale that weighs in grains, g) plastic weighing boats, h) SS or plastic spatula for transferring chemicals, i) plastic spoon, j) bamboo skewer with a flat end and a powder scoop carved on the other end, k) paper disks punched out of ordinary copy paper that will fit inside the primer cup, l) dilute shellac solution in denatured ethyl alcohol (~1 part shellac in 10 parts of alcohol but the exact concentration is not critical), m) Aluminum powder (60-100 mesh) optional, n) needle nose pliers, and o) small rod or tiny screwdriver (diameter of shaft ~1/16” or smaller) 1. Using 4 plastic weigh boats and a suitable scale, weight out the following materials: a. Boat 1, 17.0 grains of potassium chlorate, b. Boat 2, 9.0 grains of antimony sulfide, c. Boat 3, 4.0 grains of ground glass, and d. Boat 4, 3.0 grains of sulfur, 0.2 grains of sodium bicarbonate (helps stabilize the mixture on extended storage) and 0.2 grains of aluminum powder The aluminum powder is optional, but provides extra incandescent particles to help ignite slower gunpowders. Aluminum powder is commonly used in commercial Magnum primers for this same purpose.
@@rifleshooter2 Dang Thank you. You went above and beyond on your response I’ve just been using Caps and Strike anywhere matches till now ( I can’t get the strike anywhere’s to go off ) but the caps seem to be pretty reliable. I soak the paper caps in water for a few minutes then scrape the paste into the 22 brass, drop of acetone and let it dry overnight. But i want to make actual priming compound . hopefully i can find this stuff in Canada
@@joeyskullz111 My pleasure be careful and good luck
@@rifleshooter2 Does it matter if I use Antimony(III) Trisulfide (what you appear to be using here, Sb2S3) or Antimony(V) Pentasulfide (a red powder, Sb2S5)? I ask because I bought the Pentasulfide before I realized that there were two different Antimony Sulfides, but everyone seems to be using the Trisulfide. :(
Thanks!!
@@Lee_Adamson_OCF I do not know. I'm not a chemist. I just follow the work of others
How did the test go?
Is this compound corrosive and do you need to clean your guns asap after using them
Yes
I mean, you don't need to clean between shots, or speed 100mph home to clean the firearm before it falls apart, but yes, the salts (sulphur and potassium chlorate) form sulphuric and hydrochloric acids when exposed to water, which the fouling in the bore/surfaces exposed to combustion gasses, will absorb out of the air. The gun won't rust apart on you in a couple days, but the corrosion damage is cumulative, so just make sure to clean it after every shooting session. Most priming made prior to the 1970's was made with compounds similar to this, and most of those arms are just fine so long as they were maintained. That's why the AR10 and Ar15 gas tubes are stainless and the gas system on the Kalashnikov pattern rifles is easily removed for cleaning, lessons learned from earlier self-loading military rifles (gas systems aren't generally disassembled in the field)
Where did you buy/make the compounds? powdered glass? Couldn't find it on the internet.
Thanks
I ground the glass myself. Everything else I got from. Skylighter
@JDJ1963
Bullseye COE 90 transparent fine glass frit.
eBay
I grind it finer with ceramic mortar and pestle (cheap porous, ebay or Amazon)
Tumbler and ball bearing
Think i’ll go back to flintlock when the primer crisis reaches this stadium.
Can you get flint or marcasite to make flints?
I think jasper (and a couple other cryptic quartz minerals like onyx) works to make flints too but I'm not sure. What do you figure on, 20 shots per flint?.
Howdy, I need your help.can I use this for my Black Powder caps ?
yes.
What is the tool that has the little holes for the caps to fit in called? And where do you get it?
I call it a primer holder. I made it
I have crap internet, so what did you use to make this, and how much of what? Please
The fired primer, once the anvil is removed, did you just push out the firing pin strike from the previous shot and reuse it?
Yes
@@rifleshooter2 thanks for the quick response. How do they shoot?
@@0780marco I'm still working on them. I'm about 90% success
are these primers corrosive?
Yeah. The potassium chlorate is the source of the corrosive salts.
@@ChucksSEADnDEAD Thanks for the input.
Good lord that's a butt load of work for primers. Hell you can't even find stick matches any more. Are they afraid we will get UPPITY ?
Definitely a guy who doesn't mind getting his hands dirty
Is it corrosive?
Yes
Is this measurement in grains of weight or grains of volume?
Weight
Did you use black alu powder made with charcoal to stop it oxiding and combusting? Good video.. promising
No I did not
were can i buy there new primer cups and anvils for sale?
Reuse the old ones
You can't, or make your own.
You have me LingOL at Happy Little Chemicals
Hi,
Can modeling glue be better than shellac for the final step ?
The viscosity and final hardness may affect the final efficientcy of ignition. Shellac is a waxy product made from insects, beetles I believe or their shells. A pine resine if mixed thin enough might work. Both are cut/thinned by acetone/alcohol/turpentine, and have a unique characteristic of stopping stain bleed through (like wall stains from mold, tannins, dyes, chalk etc.) they are a good base sealer around primer and bullet to case joint for waterproofing ammo. Although I have used paint pens for that purpose with some success.