Hi Alec, I turned my old inflator hose into a BCD washing hose - simply go to your local garden hardware centre, pick up 2 x 12mm hose clamps and a doubled ended hose coupler. Get a 100mm old bit of garden hose (12mm). Take your old inflator hose and cut off the end that has the HP seat thread. Put the doubled ended hose coupler on one end of the garden hose and use a hose clamp to secure it in place, then use brute force to push the inflator hose up the inside of the other end of the garden hose, once it's about 50mm in use the other hose clamp to secure it in place. Now you can give your BC a really good wash using the power inflator, and your BCD dump valve will be the cleanest it's ever been. Another good part is the schrader valve will stop your hose from spraying water everywhere and will only work when use press the 'inflate button on your power inflator. Your BC will last many years longer.
Hi Peter, I’ve just made one myself,I can’t find anyone selling in the U.K … having attached to jacket the water won’t come through ? I’m sure it’s something simple I’ve missed … happy bubbles from the 🇬🇧🏴
@@albertbell7120 Starting with the obvious 1) Is the Power inflator seated fully into the BCD male spigot (with the collar fully locked) 2) Are you depressing the power inflate button on your BCD to allow the schrader valve to open IF you're still having problems, I'll post a full start to finish video on my youtube channel next week Cheers peter
I had the same problem and almost bought a new inflatorhose. Now I bought the tool and a lot of inserts, voor a few euro's . Alec after 5 years you saved my day
Kinda' like replacing your car tires/wheels and NOT looking at the brakes huh? The valve is rather important I'd say but fortunately it's very rugged and reliable. Thanks for watching Jeff. Alec
Mr. Alec Peirce, you are truly becoming the Britanica on scuba. Thanks to you I have saved so much time and even more money. I think what you are doing is awesome and I hope you keep it up. I plan on moving to Florida and I hope to swing in and shake hands with the legend himself. Keep em coming !
Thanks Vinson. If you're anywhere clsoe to Canada, that's where you'll find most times. I used to run a dive store in the Keys and I know Florida inside out. We have many friends there still visit often (next week!), but I live in Canada. Maybe we can meet up. Take care. Alec
I had no idea it contained a simple Tire Schrader valve,, thanks for the Layman's version of Tech advice,, I'm a rookie diver that desperately wants to service my own equipment, I have minor experience as an armorer, and sportsman level experience in Motorsports ,so servicing your own gear holds a special place with me, and you allow that to happen, thank you so much.
I too am an armorer and motorcycle/snowmobile/car racer. You should have no problems serving your own gear. If you can rebuild a Mikuni carburetor, you can certainly rebuild a scuba regulator. Alec
HI Alec. Great video, thanks. My son's Seaquest Latitude XLT BCD has a sticky inflator valve. I looked at the low pressure hose connector and expected to find a pin from the Schrader valve. No pin. The connector seems to have a concavity where I expected to find the pin. What am I missing?
Thank you so much! My dive shop didn't even test my lp hose! (was too short for their bench set up).... Nice surprise to have to orally inflate bc during dive due to leak.... Ugh. Now I can fix it myself.
Great tip Alec thisbis extremely useful and now I have two new things to had to my save a dive 😀. A little question for you, what kind of soap can we and should we use to wash all the different part of our scuba equipment? Neoprene soap on my LDS is really pricey also I'm wondering if there is any soap that would be good to put in the water when I put all my equipment to soak (computer, lights, SMB, masks, BCD, etc...) After a weekend of diving. Thanks and please continue with your tech tips everytime I get one in my inbox it makes my day a little better! 😀
Thanks for your comments Alexandre, I use a tiny drop of mild dishwashing soap - Dawn, Palmolive, Dove, etc. The secret is to use very little. You do not need suds for it to be effective. Many people think that suds do the cleaning. Nope! Suds are actually wasted detergent. Soap really doesn't clean at all. What soap does is reduce surface tension so that water will penetrate to the dirt on the article being washed and clean it away. Also, any grease, real petroleum-type grease or natural oil from hair, hands, etc, is attracted by the soap molecule and is washed away by the water. Normally grease separates from the water and doesn't wash away. Too much soap doesn't help and will simply make rinsing very hard to accomplish and will leave a sticky residue that attracts more dirt. 1 drop per gallon (4 liters) unless really dirty in which case use 2 drops. Take care. Alec
Hi Alec, thanks for the time to produce all these videos. I immediately subscribed to your channel after watching a few of your videos. They are very well presented I must say. Regarding this video, I was watching it as my inflator hose leaks when it's connected to the power inflator. I read some resources on the internet that this is due to the worn o-ring at the quick dettach end. (Not the first stage end.) I was wondering if you have any videos that can show us how to replace this o-ring. Again, great videos. Keep up the good work.
I can do that. Change the Schrader valve first. $2. If it still leaks then it must be the O-Ring. You can get the O-Ring anywhere for maybe $2 but changing it is a frustrating exercise. There's no secret. Look into the end with the Schrader valve out and you'll see the O-Ring around the inside wall of the tube. Using a fine pick, get it out. Now the fun part, getting the new one in. There's no secret. Be patient and work away at it. Good luck. Alec
Thanks a million, right in time, as I had the problem. Thanks. The tool is a "long" version (two versions available at car part stores, the short, usual version does not reach deep enough). Thanks again, super.
The Mares inflator actually comes apart (and back together) really simply, but your trick is good enough to make that unnecessary for most. There was so much salt on my internal inflation valve that that it was completely blocked at 150 psi!
Ouch! Some PIV's are easy to repair and others a nightmare. It's seems like someone sad: "Let's make the best BC in the world but no diver can repair it". Not a problem right?
HI Alec. Great video, thanks. My son's Seaquest Latitude XLT BCD has a sticky inflator valve. I looked at the low pressure hose connector and expected to find a pin from the Schrader valve. No pin. The connector seems to have a concavity where I expected to find the pin. What am I missing?
Great info Alex - didn't realized it had a standard bike valve in there. Mine as a tiny leak when connected, until I wiggle it around - probably need to replace QD o-ring as Sur mentions... would be good to know ring sizing info too.
the O-ring in the qd end of the hose is typically size 010. It much easier to remove this o-ring than to insert a new one in place but with some patience and perseverance it goes in with some gentle poking and prodding. I usually use a chopstick or thin wooden dowel to help prod/maneuver the o-ring into its groove. There is a tool for this that makes it easier but I have only seen it available on a couple of websites and the price was cost prohibitive given how often one would use it in a non-shop environment. I have recently saw on scubaboard.com that someone created a homemade version of the tool using a plastic wall anchor and screw...it maybe a viable inexpensive and readily available alternative.
It sure is Sur. That's why it's so important to rinse and liube the fitting. I have spent a long time trying to remove and replace that O-Ring. I some cases, even if the hose was renewable, I've suggested the diver get a new one rather then try to fix it. Thanks. Alec
Just caught up to the newest episode. Great content! Thanks, Mr. Alec! Very helpful tips especially for equipment enthusiasts. BTW, what do you think of the split fins? And, just a suggestion, if you have time, is it possible to open a channel and share some great diving experiences (locations/sea lives/routes/photos/vids/logs etc) from your rich diving experiences? It will also be a refresh of a lot of precious memories I believe.
Alec, simple and effective! Very nice. People just are not aware of where in scuba that simple valve is used do they! By the way, I caught your long hair reference. I guess in retirement you decided to grow your hair like mine! lol. Keep them coming...
No one, that's NO ONE, could grow hair like you Tom. 40 years and you still tick me off. Hope all's well. Your dear old bald dive buddy and friend, Alec
Hey Alec, thanks for the info. I love these videos. I have a low pressure inflator that actually seems not to be leaking, but to be inflating too slowly. Is there a need for a new schrader valve? The tech who serviced it told me on the phone that it could use a 1/4 turn loosening, as it might not be making full contact with the inflator stem on the BCD side of things. What do you think?
Not sure but if you have the valve driver, remove and inspect it before shining about loose/tight. Many times the small opening in the air spool is blocked with something (usually a broken o-ring). Replacing the valve is easy and cheap so do that then test in a pool. A
Pure excellence. Truly a tip I'd never thought about before. Frankly i am not sure if I rinse this enough, well not entierly true, I normally put my whole regulator in fresh water. But never have I used WD40 on it and pretty sure no company in Norway (as far as I know) have a valve. Need to ask my local dive store about that.. But going streight out to the shed tomorrow to look at my hoses and connectors.. PS, when the o-ring on my regulator (the one that connects to first stage DIN) tends to fall off when I screw it of the first stage, is it time to change it then (Apex xtx200) ??
If your o-ring is causing you frustration that is reason enough to change it....the worst thing that could happen is that the same thing happens. These o-rings are fairly standard and should only cost about 50 euro cents (more or less) at your local dive shop. If upon inspection your o-ring is round, supple, and does not have any feathering around the edges you may be able to revive it by very lightly lubricating it with silicone grease. But if this o-ring has been in place for a season or more then just replace it. Cheap and easy to do yourself.
Thanks Tom. Gosh yes! If the regulator O-Ring falls out there's something wrong. Check that the DIN is still unworn and has sharp edges. As a reg is used, the nice clean edges wear. It shouldn't be a problem on DIN but I've seen some pretty beat up ones. Also check that the O-Ring is the correct size. It's not uncommon for a dive shop to put the wrong one in there. When inserted, it should be a very snug fit and should stay. You should not have to stretch it over teh center post to fit it in nor squeeze it smaller to get it into the groove. It should drop in and then go into place with a firm push. Once installed the first time, the pressure from fitting it into the valve and then the air pressure will seat it firmly. It actually ought to be a bit hard to get it out Tom. Go to your LDS and check out a brand new regulator with DIN to see how it should be. Good luck. Alec
Thanks for another great video 😀 I was wondering if you could do a video about the differences between a bc with a regular inflator and a bc with airtrim ? Pros and cons. And maybe give some pointers on how to be neutral buoyant in the water ? Thanks from Sweden 😀👌
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I've ordered a few parts online, I've always previously replaced the hose or power inflator, these break just about every year so this should save a bit of money. Thanks Alec.
Hi Alec Me and my wife are huge fans of your tec tips and vintage videos. As new divers we ahve learned a lot from you :) . I hade a bad freeflow as i was diving here in sweden a couple of weeks ago( water temperature was about 1 degree celsius.No big deal even if the regulator was brand new . upon closer inspection i discovered that i was able to suck air and probably water through the drysuit inflator in other words the inflator hose was leaking air backwards and i was able to get air from the second stage when the first stage was off the cylinder . May this be the cause of the free flaw ?
What???? Never heard of this one. So you're saying that your reg was frozen and free-flowing but you put your drysuit inflator hose into your mouth, sucked on it and got air???????????? Hey, if it worked, that's great but I'll have to think about that for a while. I certainly can see no relationship between a reg free flow and a leaky drysuit inflator hose. Thanks for watching my vid and I'm glad there's been something in there for you guys. Alec
Thank you Sir. I have watched lots of your video and I found them very informative and helpful. I am planning to buy an all-around dive bag. Is the meshed one better? TIA
We did a vid on dive bags a long ways back. The mesh is better for draining, cleaning and drying gear but not so good for travel. When travelling you need a strong bag that also hides what's inside. For local diving or for on a dive boat, mesh is better. So, you'll have to decide what's best for you. Thanks for watching. Alec
Today I went diving and the quick connect hose was leaking a stream of bubbles under water and it was annoying because when I checked my pressure gauge I had 1500 PSI and my buddy had 2000 PSI. I know that the rental gear gets used much more than personal gear and that is why I am going to buy my own regulator set.
One of the most important reasons for owning your own gear is that you know its in good shape. You are not depending on someone else for your safety. Alec
My drysuit hose was also leaking and I figured it must be similar to car and bike tires. Unfortunately I had to go diving the next day so got the lds to do it. I was pretty blown away (pun intended) when I picked up and they wanted $25.
Hi Alex, I am using a second inflation hose to inflate my smb with an inflation tube.... I am always somehow struggling to pull back the clip ring, is there a way to permanently remove that clip ring. I have another inflation hose which is then clipped on the bcd inlet.
By clip ring, I assume your mean the sliding ring that you pull back to insert your inflator gun. That ring can be hard to move but it's essential. It is that ring, after it slides back into place, that holds the balls into the groove on your air gun and keeps the gun attached. There's no way to eliminate it. However, there are some hoses that have large plastic ears on the ring to make it easier to grab. You could even put a tight rubber tube over the ring to make it larger in diameter and easier to move too. Be sure it's all well lubed or it will be impossible to fit underwater. If it's easy and smooth on land, it shouldn't be too hard underwater. Good luck. Alec
Hi Alec, Thanks to Jeff Greenfield's explanation I managed to remove the c-clip and the sliding ring and the small little balls inside. Now I 'am able to smoothly slide over the inflator tube of the smb even with my thick gloves without any hassle.... Btw I'm a great fan of your videos and your straight way of explaining things ...! Thanks !
I'm glad it's working for you. I usually don't suggest diver remove that clip since it's hard to keep track of the balls and spring and it's even harder to replace the clip. However, if you don't want the balls, as in your case, go for it. Take care, Alec
yep, there’s an o-ring in the QD fitting. Requires careful use of a double hook pick to get out. Make sure the sharp point doesn’t contact the o-ring land. Inserting a new o-ring may also be a bit of a challenge. There are tools to help place it the land.
It's exactly the same size as a standard short Schraeder valve. Only difference I can see is that it might be chromed or even made of stainless steel. scubagaskets.com/product/schrader-valve-for-bcd-repair/
Thanks for watching. I believe that any scuba training course is worthwhile. You always learn something that could be useful. On some courses you pick up great ideas and skills to apply. On others you will learn things that you DON'T want to apply, that you want to avoid. Sharing ideas with other divers and instructors is good. Just don't assume they're always good or always right. Use your own brain too. Good luck. Alec
Then the inflator valve needs service as the mechanism is not closing tight so it leaks/hisses. A good LDS can fix most models quickly. Don't try it yourself as if one piece breaks, it may be a new inflator valve not an easy service anymore.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter It leaks where the the coupler joins the inflator. The place you recommended hot water and WD40. I am trying that. I also cleaned with vinegar, but it looks very clean. This one was mostly in fresh water.
Ahhh! That's what your LDS is for! However, you are quite right. There is a small O-Ring down inside the LP hose connector and it can wear and break down just like any other O-Ring. It should be changed occasionally, or if the fitting leaks even with a new Schrader valve installed. How to do that? Believe it or not but no factory service manual explains that procedure, at least not in detail, and it's not easy. Usually the manual says "Change the O-Ring if necessary". Here we go: Set aside about 20 minutes. I've seen some service techs take 45 minutes and even give up in frustration. You need a dental pick with a slight bend in the end or a substitute. A good flashlight will help too. And of course you need the proper O-Ring from your LDS or a hardware store (this is LP so a cheap O-Ring will be fine - this doesn't apply to regulator O-Rings!!). Now look down into the hose end and you should be able to see the O-Ring just below the little steel balls that grab the spigot on the BC valve. Using the pick, grab the O-Ring and get it out. It may tear but that's OK. If you can get the pick end under the O-Ring and lift it a bit you can then get the hook on the end of the pick under it and gently tug it out. You should use a Q-Tip to clean the groove. The Q-Tip will probably come out dirty. Now the fun part - getting the new O-Ring in place First, to make it harder LOL, lightly lubricate the O-Ring. Any grease handy is OK. This is not part of the breathing air system. Next, fold the O-Ring in half and tuck it into the hose end. Now using the pick - CAREFULLY, you don't want to poke holes in or even scratch the O-Ring - work the lower or edge of the O-Ring into it's groove and then slowly move around the sides of the O-Ring pushing it into place. It will eventually pop into the groove. Check that it's not leaking and then call your dive buddy!! It's time to go diving. BTW your LDS will usually do this job for you, Schrader valve and O-Ring replacement for less than $20, O-Ring included. TIP - either watch if they will let you or at least be sure you see the old O-Ring. This is such a nuisance job that some dive stores will fudge it - maybe grease the O-Ring and hope it lasts a while. Good luck. Alec
Indeed. I had to dig up my O-Ring Collection. Its the same O-Ring for bouth sides. I tested it today. It works. Replaced all inflator-O-Rings. It took maybe 2 min each.
The valve has a seal attached, not an o-ring. If your competent and handy with tools you can service it yourself. Otherwise many divers prefer the comfort of a service professional to do it for a small fee. Thanks for watching. Alec
There IS an o-ring down inside there. Not on the shrader valve. I'm surprised to hear how many service technicians don't seem to know that! I spent the time watching the video hoping to learn the size of that o-ring. Mine was very brittle and came out in pieces.
Hi Alec, I turned my old inflator hose into a BCD washing hose - simply go to your local garden hardware centre, pick up 2 x 12mm hose clamps and a doubled ended hose coupler. Get a 100mm old bit of garden hose (12mm). Take your old inflator hose and cut off the end that has the HP seat thread. Put the doubled ended hose coupler on one end of the garden hose and use a hose clamp to secure it in place, then use brute force to push the inflator hose up the inside of the other end of the garden hose, once it's about 50mm in use the other hose clamp to secure it in place. Now you can give your BC a really good wash using the power inflator, and your BCD dump valve will be the cleanest it's ever been. Another good part is the schrader valve will stop your hose from spraying water everywhere and will only work when use press the 'inflate button on your power inflator. Your BC will last many years longer.
I brought a 12v jetwash and installed it on the van as the wife will not let me use the bath
Hi Peter, I’ve just made one myself,I can’t find anyone selling in the U.K … having attached to jacket the water won’t come through ? I’m sure it’s something simple I’ve missed … happy bubbles from the 🇬🇧🏴
@@albertbell7120 Starting with the obvious
1) Is the Power inflator seated fully into the BCD male spigot (with the collar fully locked)
2) Are you depressing the power inflate button on your BCD to allow the schrader valve to open
IF you're still having problems, I'll post a full start to finish video on my youtube channel next week
Cheers
peter
I had the same problem and almost bought a new inflatorhose. Now I bought the tool and a lot of inserts, voor a few euro's . Alec after 5 years you saved my day
I'm very glad to know this has been very helpful to you. Thanks for letting me know.
A
Two classes on maintenance and no one mentioned the valve, thank you once again!!!😊
Kinda' like replacing your car tires/wheels and NOT looking at the brakes huh?
The valve is rather important I'd say but fortunately it's very rugged and reliable.
Thanks for watching Jeff.
Alec
Mr. Alec Peirce, you are truly becoming the Britanica on scuba. Thanks to you I have saved so much time and even more money. I think what you are doing is awesome and I hope you keep it up. I plan on moving to Florida and I hope to swing in and shake hands with the legend himself. Keep em coming !
Thanks Vinson.
If you're anywhere clsoe to Canada, that's where you'll find most times.
I used to run a dive store in the Keys and I know Florida inside out. We have many friends there still visit often (next week!), but I live in Canada.
Maybe we can meet up.
Take care.
Alec
I’m so glad Newhart has his own UA-cam channel. Love it!
Me to Adam.
I had no idea it contained a simple Tire Schrader valve,, thanks for the Layman's version of Tech advice,, I'm a rookie diver that desperately wants to service my own equipment, I have minor experience as an armorer, and sportsman level experience in Motorsports ,so servicing your own gear holds a special place with me, and you allow that to happen, thank you so much.
I too am an armorer and motorcycle/snowmobile/car racer. You should have no problems serving your own gear. If you can rebuild a Mikuni carburetor, you can certainly rebuild a scuba regulator.
Alec
HI Alec. Great video, thanks. My son's Seaquest Latitude XLT BCD has a sticky inflator valve. I looked at the low pressure hose connector and expected to find a pin from the Schrader valve. No pin. The connector seems to have a concavity where I expected to find the pin. What am I missing?
Thank you so much! My dive shop didn't even test my lp hose! (was too short for their bench set up).... Nice surprise to have to orally inflate bc during dive due to leak.... Ugh. Now I can fix it myself.
Glad to help.
Some simple maintenance procedures are so simple that dive shops overlook them.
Alec
I have learned so much from you. Thank you so much.
Best wishes from Serbia
Thanks for watching Igor.
From Canada (Serbia west).
Alec
Great tip Alec thisbis extremely useful and now I have two new things to had to my save a dive 😀. A little question for you, what kind of soap can we and should we use to wash all the different part of our scuba equipment? Neoprene soap on my LDS is really pricey also I'm wondering if there is any soap that would be good to put in the water when I put all my equipment to soak (computer, lights, SMB, masks, BCD, etc...) After a weekend of diving. Thanks and please continue with your tech tips everytime I get one in my inbox it makes my day a little better! 😀
Thanks for your comments Alexandre,
I use a tiny drop of mild dishwashing soap - Dawn, Palmolive, Dove, etc.
The secret is to use very little. You do not need suds for it to be effective.
Many people think that suds do the cleaning. Nope!
Suds are actually wasted detergent. Soap really doesn't clean at all.
What soap does is reduce surface tension so that water will penetrate to the dirt on the article being washed and clean it away. Also, any grease, real petroleum-type grease or natural oil from hair, hands, etc, is attracted by the soap molecule and is washed away by the water. Normally grease separates from the water and doesn't wash away.
Too much soap doesn't help and will simply make rinsing very hard to accomplish and will leave a sticky residue that attracts more dirt.
1 drop per gallon (4 liters) unless really dirty in which case use 2 drops.
Take care.
Alec
Hi Alec, thanks for the time to produce all these videos. I immediately subscribed to your channel after watching a few of your videos. They are very well presented I must say.
Regarding this video, I was watching it as my inflator hose leaks when it's connected to the power inflator. I read some resources on the internet that this is due to the worn o-ring at the quick dettach end. (Not the first stage end.) I was wondering if you have any videos that can show us how to replace this o-ring.
Again, great videos. Keep up the good work.
I can do that. Change the Schrader valve first. $2.
If it still leaks then it must be the O-Ring. You can get the O-Ring anywhere for maybe $2 but changing it is a frustrating exercise. There's no secret. Look into the end with the Schrader valve out and you'll see the O-Ring around the inside wall of the tube. Using a fine pick, get it out. Now the fun part, getting the new one in. There's no secret. Be patient and work away at it.
Good luck.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks I will try to change the valve. Meanwhile, looking forward to your video on changing the evil o ring.
Thanks a million, right in time, as I had the problem. Thanks. The tool is a "long" version (two versions available at car part stores, the short, usual version does not reach deep enough). Thanks again, super.
Thank you Alec, just what I was looking for!
You are welcome!
The Mares inflator actually comes apart (and back together) really simply, but your trick is good enough to make that unnecessary for most. There was so much salt on my internal inflation valve that that it was completely blocked at 150 psi!
Ouch! Some PIV's are easy to repair and others a nightmare. It's seems like someone sad: "Let's make the best BC in the world but no diver can repair it". Not a problem right?
love your videos. have learned a lot.
Awesome, thank you!
A
Doing a Scuba Gear Maintenance 101 class of many of your old videos 😉
Hope the class dosn't laugh too much.
A
HI Alec. Great video, thanks. My son's Seaquest Latitude XLT BCD has a sticky inflator valve. I looked at the low pressure hose connector and expected to find a pin from the Schrader valve. No pin. The connector seems to have a concavity where I expected to find the pin. What am I missing?
Anither great ttutorial Alex, THANKS!!! Just a comment, what about the o'ring sitting in the QD end of the hose. That one is difficult to change!
Great info Alex - didn't realized it had a standard bike valve in there. Mine as a tiny leak when connected, until I wiggle it around - probably need to replace QD o-ring as Sur mentions... would be good to know ring sizing info too.
the O-ring in the qd end of the hose is typically size 010. It much easier to remove this o-ring than to insert a new one in place but with some patience and perseverance it goes in with some gentle poking and prodding. I usually use a chopstick or thin wooden dowel to help prod/maneuver the o-ring into its groove. There is a tool for this that makes it easier but I have only seen it available on a couple of websites and the price was cost prohibitive given how often one would use it in a non-shop environment. I have recently saw on scubaboard.com that someone created a homemade version of the tool using a plastic wall anchor and screw...it maybe a viable inexpensive and readily available alternative.
It sure is Sur.
That's why it's so important to rinse and liube the fitting.
I have spent a long time trying to remove and replace that O-Ring.
I some cases, even if the hose was renewable, I've suggested the diver get a new one rather then try to fix it.
Thanks.
Alec
Wow. That is a new thing for me. I have now 6 to replace. I always wondered from where dies my inflators leak.
Thanks for the tips, had a leak in my quick detach and went through those steps, for me it was the warm water that did it after putting the wd40.
Glad it helped Derek.
Thank you great advice ALEC! Never knew that.
Aha! I'm a happy man John. You picked up something of interest.
Alec
Just caught up to the newest episode. Great content! Thanks, Mr. Alec!
Very helpful tips especially for equipment enthusiasts. BTW, what do you think of the split fins? And, just a suggestion, if you have time, is it possible to open a channel and share some great diving experiences (locations/sea lives/routes/photos/vids/logs etc) from your rich diving experiences? It will also be a refresh of a lot of precious memories I believe.
Alec, simple and effective! Very nice. People just are not aware of where in scuba that simple valve is used do they! By the way, I caught your long hair reference. I guess in retirement you decided to grow your hair like mine! lol. Keep them coming...
No one, that's NO ONE, could grow hair like you Tom.
40 years and you still tick me off.
Hope all's well.
Your dear old bald dive buddy and friend,
Alec
It is harder to change the inner rubber o'ring in the QD when the leak is in the attachment, a little tricky
Good point, but it can be done with patience.
Alec
Cheers Alec, nice tip
Thanks for watching David.
Alec
Hey Alec, thanks for the info. I love these videos.
I have a low pressure inflator that actually seems not to be leaking, but to be inflating too slowly. Is there a need for a new schrader valve? The tech who serviced it told me on the phone that it could use a 1/4 turn loosening, as it might not be making full contact with the inflator stem on the BCD side of things.
What do you think?
Not sure but if you have the valve driver, remove and inspect it before shining about loose/tight. Many times the small opening in the air spool is blocked with something (usually a broken o-ring). Replacing the valve is easy and cheap so do that then test in a pool.
A
Pure excellence. Truly a tip I'd never thought about before. Frankly i am not sure if I rinse this enough, well not entierly true, I normally put my whole regulator in fresh water. But never have I used WD40 on it and pretty sure no company in Norway (as far as I know) have a valve. Need to ask my local dive store about that.. But going streight out to the shed tomorrow to look at my hoses and connectors.. PS, when the o-ring on my regulator (the one that connects to first stage DIN) tends to fall off when I screw it of the first stage, is it time to change it then (Apex xtx200) ??
If your o-ring is causing you frustration that is reason enough to change it....the worst thing that could happen is that the same thing happens. These o-rings are fairly standard and should only cost about 50 euro cents (more or less) at your local dive shop. If upon inspection your o-ring is round, supple, and does not have any feathering around the edges you may be able to revive it by very lightly lubricating it with silicone grease. But if this o-ring has been in place for a season or more then just replace it. Cheap and easy to do yourself.
Thank you sir
Thanks Tom.
Gosh yes! If the regulator O-Ring falls out there's something wrong.
Check that the DIN is still unworn and has sharp edges. As a reg is used, the nice clean edges wear. It shouldn't be a problem on DIN but I've seen some pretty beat up ones.
Also check that the O-Ring is the correct size. It's not uncommon for a dive shop to put the wrong one in there. When inserted, it should be a very snug fit and should stay. You should not have to stretch it over teh center post to fit it in nor squeeze it smaller to get it into the groove. It should drop in and then go into place with a firm push. Once installed the first time, the pressure from fitting it into the valve and then the air pressure will seat it firmly. It actually ought to be a bit hard to get it out Tom.
Go to your LDS and check out a brand new regulator with DIN to see how it should be.
Good luck.
Alec
Thanks for another great video 😀 I was wondering if you could do a video about the differences between a bc with a regular inflator and a bc with airtrim ? Pros and cons. And maybe give some pointers on how to be neutral buoyant in the water ? Thanks from Sweden 😀👌
I'll see what we can do for you.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba And thanks for taking the time doing all of these videos. Means a lot 😀 see you soon
Great tip!
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Thank u Alec. Got yourself a sub for that 🙏
Thank you Elaine. Glad you like these.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I've ordered a few parts online, I've always previously replaced the hose or power inflator, these break just about every year so this should save a bit of money. Thanks Alec.
Hey Alec how many dives have you made in your lifetime? Love your videos thanks.
I have my SSI Platinum Pro 5,000 dives award. That was a while ago so I guess (before coffee), around 6,000 that I remember.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter that is amazing! Thanks for the info and have a blessed day my friend.
love it....again !!!!!!
Thank you.
Hi Alec
Me and my wife are huge fans of your tec tips and vintage videos. As new divers we ahve learned a lot from you :) .
I hade a bad freeflow as i was diving here in sweden a couple of weeks ago( water temperature was about 1 degree celsius.No big deal even if the regulator was brand new . upon closer inspection i discovered that i was able to suck air and probably water through the drysuit inflator in other words the inflator hose was leaking air backwards and i was able to get air from the second stage when the first stage was off the cylinder . May this be the cause of the free flaw ?
What????
Never heard of this one.
So you're saying that your reg was frozen and free-flowing but you put your drysuit inflator hose into your mouth, sucked on it and got air????????????
Hey, if it worked, that's great but I'll have to think about that for a while.
I certainly can see no relationship between a reg free flow and a leaky drysuit inflator hose.
Thanks for watching my vid and I'm glad there's been something in there for you guys.
Alec
Thank you Sir. I have watched lots of your video and I found them very informative and helpful. I am planning to buy an all-around dive bag. Is the meshed one better? TIA
We did a vid on dive bags a long ways back.
The mesh is better for draining, cleaning and drying gear but not so good for travel.
When travelling you need a strong bag that also hides what's inside.
For local diving or for on a dive boat, mesh is better.
So, you'll have to decide what's best for you.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Thank you very much Sir
Today I went diving and the quick connect hose was leaking a stream of bubbles under water and it was annoying because when I checked my pressure gauge I had 1500 PSI and my buddy had 2000 PSI. I know that the rental gear gets used much more than personal gear and that is why I am going to buy my own regulator set.
One of the most important reasons for owning your own gear is that you know its in good shape. You are not depending on someone else for your safety.
Alec
My drysuit hose was also leaking and I figured it must be similar to car and bike tires. Unfortunately I had to go diving the next day so got the lds to do it. I was pretty blown away (pun intended) when I picked up and they wanted $25.
xD Thanks Alec!! Great info :D
Any time!
Hi for the valve core. Will brass or stainless matter? Or zinc coated? I dive saltwater all the time
It will not matter as long as after each dive it's rinsed in clean fresh water. They are made knowing salt water is always possible.
A
Hi Alex,
I am using a second inflation hose to inflate my smb with an inflation tube.... I am always somehow struggling to pull back the clip ring, is there a way to permanently remove that clip ring. I have another inflation hose which is then clipped on the bcd inlet.
remove the small c-clip at the tip of the qd fitting and remove the balls, springs, and anything else that pops out.
Thanks Jeff, will try it out....
By clip ring, I assume your mean the sliding ring that you pull back to insert your inflator gun.
That ring can be hard to move but it's essential. It is that ring, after it slides back into place, that holds the balls into the groove on your air gun and keeps the gun attached. There's no way to eliminate it.
However, there are some hoses that have large plastic ears on the ring to make it easier to grab. You could even put a tight rubber tube over the ring to make it larger in diameter and easier to move too.
Be sure it's all well lubed or it will be impossible to fit underwater.
If it's easy and smooth on land, it shouldn't be too hard underwater.
Good luck.
Alec
Hi Alec,
Thanks to Jeff Greenfield's explanation I managed to remove the c-clip and the sliding ring and the small little balls inside. Now I 'am able to smoothly slide over the inflator tube of the smb even with my thick gloves without any hassle.... Btw I'm a great fan of your videos and your straight way of explaining things ...! Thanks !
I'm glad it's working for you.
I usually don't suggest diver remove that clip since it's hard to keep track of the balls and spring and it's even harder to replace the clip. However, if you don't want the balls, as in your case, go for it.
Take care,
Alec
Always easy when you know.
And now you do too. That's why I share this to educate and entertain divers.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter and thank you for that Alec and Kevin 👌
You forgot a O-ring in the inflator hose. There is a extra O-ring at the site of the bcd
Did I?
yep, there’s an o-ring in the QD fitting. Requires careful use of a double hook pick to get out. Make sure the sharp point doesn’t contact the o-ring land. Inserting a new o-ring may also be a bit of a challenge. There are tools to help place it the land.
THANK YOU SO MUCH
You're welcome!
Can you use the same Schrader valve from a car or a bicycle? Or should it be one for scuba?
It's exactly the same size as a standard short Schraeder valve. Only difference I can see is that it might be chromed or even made of stainless steel. scubagaskets.com/product/schrader-valve-for-bcd-repair/
Thank you Alex! Your the best!
I see your video and and i anchor in my decision to end scuba tech course. :)
Thanks for watching.
I believe that any scuba training course is worthwhile.
You always learn something that could be useful.
On some courses you pick up great ideas and skills to apply.
On others you will learn things that you DON'T want to apply, that you want to avoid.
Sharing ideas with other divers and instructors is good.
Just don't assume they're always good or always right. Use your own brain too.
Good luck.
Alec
how do u replace the o ring on the qd valve?
If you mean the quick disconnect of a HP computer/console, then the air spool is replaced, no single o-ring.
A
What if it only leaks when connected to the low pressure inflator?
Then the inflator valve needs service as the mechanism is not closing tight so it leaks/hisses. A good LDS can fix most models quickly. Don't try it yourself as if one piece breaks, it may be a new inflator valve not an easy service anymore.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter It leaks where the the coupler joins the inflator. The place you recommended hot water and WD40. I am trying that. I also cleaned with vinegar, but it looks very clean. This one was mostly in fresh water.
I replaced this little part... still leaking. What about the o-ring inside? How the heck do I get it out and the new one in?
Ahhh! That's what your LDS is for!
However, you are quite right. There is a small O-Ring down inside the LP hose connector and it can wear and break down just like any other O-Ring. It should be changed occasionally, or if the fitting leaks even with a new Schrader valve installed.
How to do that? Believe it or not but no factory service manual explains that procedure, at least not in detail, and it's not easy.
Usually the manual says "Change the O-Ring if necessary".
Here we go:
Set aside about 20 minutes. I've seen some service techs take 45 minutes and even give up in frustration.
You need a dental pick with a slight bend in the end or a substitute. A good flashlight will help too. And of course you need the proper O-Ring from your LDS or a hardware store (this is LP so a cheap O-Ring will be fine - this doesn't apply to regulator O-Rings!!).
Now look down into the hose end and you should be able to see the O-Ring just below the little steel balls that grab the spigot on the BC valve. Using the pick, grab the O-Ring and get it out. It may tear but that's OK. If you can get the pick end under the O-Ring and lift it a bit you can then get the hook on the end of the pick under it and gently tug it out.
You should use a Q-Tip to clean the groove. The Q-Tip will probably come out dirty.
Now the fun part - getting the new O-Ring in place
First, to make it harder LOL, lightly lubricate the O-Ring. Any grease handy is OK. This is not part of the breathing air system.
Next, fold the O-Ring in half and tuck it into the hose end.
Now using the pick - CAREFULLY, you don't want to poke holes in or even scratch the O-Ring - work the lower or edge of the O-Ring into it's groove and then slowly move around the sides of the O-Ring pushing it into place. It will eventually pop into the groove. Check that it's not leaking and then call your dive buddy!! It's time to go diving.
BTW your LDS will usually do this job for you, Schrader valve and O-Ring replacement for less than $20, O-Ring included. TIP - either watch if they will let you or at least be sure you see the old O-Ring. This is such a nuisance job that some dive stores will fudge it - maybe grease the O-Ring and hope it lasts a while.
Good luck.
Alec
Hi Alec, can you tell me the size/number of the O-Ring inside of this QD coupler?
I have the same problem and I managed to pull out the O-Ring. Size is 7,65 x 1,78 mm. I just ordered them. Its not tested yet tough.
@@Skunkiboi Thanks! 7,65mm X 1,78mm = #011 similar with 3/8" LP port O-Ring
Indeed. I had to dig up my O-Ring Collection. Its the same O-Ring for bouth sides. I tested it today. It works. Replaced all inflator-O-Rings. It took maybe 2 min each.
And what about the o ring inside the connector?
$5 for a schrader valve? You can get a pack of ten, complete with tool for that money?
The valve has a seal attached, not an o-ring. If your competent and handy with tools you can service it yourself. Otherwise many divers prefer the comfort of a service professional to do it for a small fee.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
There IS an o-ring down inside there. Not on the shrader valve. I'm surprised to hear how many service technicians don't seem to know that! I spent the time watching the video hoping to learn the size of that o-ring. Mine was very brittle and came out in pieces.