I had too many ah ha moments to keep track of them. I am always up to learning new things. I am glad I finally found someone who makes learning this craft make sense and fun again.
Amazing video on all of the steps of dying and top coating on a belt! Thanks for covering every step of the processes and for helping me figure out why my dye coats were so uneven. I was doing just the thing that you described, which was going back and re-dying light spots that I thought needed more dye. I just dyed my second belt and this video was helpful. Glad I found it.
For those of you that can’t find sheepskin applicators for various products, paint brushes, rags, strips of old t shirts, tooth brushes, makeup sponges, even chunks of foam from an old couch cushion or chewed up dog bed. Get resourceful and try it out on scraps.
Hello moment was to dye first and oil second! Simple and effective as always. Appreciate you sharing the knowledge and jarring our brain housing groups. Thank you Sir
Thank you very much for this! I really like that you clearly showed what products you used and explained why and what they did. I've heard of people using extra virgin olive oil instead of neatsfoot oil. Do you think that would work? I'm about to find out if the next video explains how to dye the edges. LOL.
Dying has been a pain for me. Trying to get an even color on my project. It ends up a little darker than I wanted. I have resorted to just oil and antique. Different leathers take oil or dye differently. I used a sponge applicator once and it was too much dye in some places leaving a blotchy mess and by the time I got it evened out, it was too dark.I will give your technice a try. With oil, I let it have time to set in before I decide if it needs more. Again, thanks for the tips.
On my bottle of Fiebing's Low VOC leather dye it says "After dyeing, remove excess surface dye by rubbing briskly with a soft cloth.". Is that something that you ever do? I noticed that you didn't do that in the video.
Hey Joe, your videos and courses have helped me a lot as well as the templates you have. I had a question about Pro Resist and was wondering if there were alternatives to it or how much it’s needed in the process. I can’t seem to find any around me and I was hoping to get some projects finished up soon. Thanks
Joe, what do you think of Fiebings mink oil? I noticed that you applied the Neetsfoot oil before the dye was completely dry. I have usually allowed the dye to completely dry before adding my mink oil. So, it's ok to apply before the dye completely dries?
Lots of ah ha moments. Question though, why would you not punch the holes in the belt before you dyed it so the dye would cover the holes as well and not create additional steps.
Hello, i bought a stamped leather belt at a thrift store but the leather has cracks and is quite stiff, may I know what products i can use to restore it?
I have used Feibing's Pro Dye for many years, with very satisfactory results. Recently in our state (California) Feibing's Pro Dye has been unavailable due to new state regulations. I have tried their other dye products (Feibing's institutional dyes, that use more of an alcohol base), and the results were disappointing. I also tried the Angelus products still not really satisfied with how they perform either. (They also appear to be an alcohol-based product.) They tend to be blotchier and more uneven in coloring. Have you tried these products? Do you have any suggestions, or should I just relocate to another state so I can get the Pro Dye, LOL. I will give the foam brushes from hardware and paint store a try, which might help. I have always used the wool daubers for dying. Another idea I had was to mix some of the dye with the Neatsfootoil and then apply it to see if it will make the application more even. I see that in your video you did something similar by oiling right after dying. Typically, I don't dye saddlery as I prefer the character given by regular cleaning/oiling, sun, dirt and sweat over time. However smaller items like belts, wallets, ect., I will dye and antique.
Great stuff, Joe. I appreciated seeing a slightly different process than I have developed with a fantastic result. Is there a reason you prefer resolene over tan-kote?
I like the protection resolene offers. Especially on something that is getting antique. Resolene is formulated to seal and resist where the tan kote will allow penetration. Tan kote is great on a saddle over an oil finish. It will look great and allow for an even oil application after wear. It is also good to use for thinning antique. However it won’t resist antique like the resolene will and I don’t feel it seals antique in as well either.
Great video Joe!! I’ve been struggling with dying. I’ve always been afraid to use pro dye after stamping a belt out and I’ve used just antique paste. Last belt I did I stamped oiled and then used dark brown antique and it ended up coming out blotchy so I ended up dying and black and stamping out another belt for the customer on another belt I made I stamped oiled applied tan coat, then antique paste finished off with tan coat the bell came out very light. I used mahogany paste and it just didn’t bring out that nice mahogany color only in the impression areas. Is it possible to use antique without tan coat on just a stamped belt.? But I do feel more comfortable now using pro die on a belt to bring out rich colors
I don’t know that you’ll cut it completely but a lighter thinner coat will sure help. Using the foam applicator really puts down a lot of product. Using a rag or the sheepskin might work better for you.
That sounds like a good trick. I’ll have to give it a try. I don’t typically use them. I prefer the foam chip brushes for dying large areas. Thanks for sharing that tip.
Thanks for the dying techniques. I have made thousands of belts, and getting a consistent dye job has always been an issue.
I had too many ah ha moments to keep track of them. I am always up to learning new things. I am glad I finally found someone who makes learning this craft make sense and fun again.
That’s so great to hear. Especially that you’re having fun!
I love the pro dye because I can dip dye projects easily, with little mess.
Amazing video on all of the steps of dying and top coating on a belt! Thanks for covering every step of the processes and for helping me figure out why my dye coats were so uneven. I was doing just the thing that you described, which was going back and re-dying light spots that I thought needed more dye. I just dyed my second belt and this video was helpful. Glad I found it.
For those of you that can’t find sheepskin applicators for various products, paint brushes, rags, strips of old t shirts, tooth brushes, makeup sponges, even chunks of foam from an old couch cushion or chewed up dog bed. Get resourceful and try it out on scraps.
Thanks Joe for great video, I have question. What about other side of the belt? Do you dye it and use all the same techniques?
Mr.Meling this is the fouth time I have wacthed this video and have learned so much thank you
That is so great to hear! You’re very welcome.
Excellent video.
Thanks for the belt series! Question about resolene though what’s the difference between it and TanKote?
Awesome videos Joe. I learn something from each one of your videos.
Hello moment was to dye first and oil second! Simple and effective as always. Appreciate you sharing the knowledge and jarring our brain housing groups. Thank you Sir
Thank you for the info very helpful and informative keep the good work I’m learning things I never knew
Thank you sir
Thanks Joe great video
Awesome videos, Thank you!
Is resolene the same as pro resist?
Cheers
Thank you very much for this! I really like that you clearly showed what products you used and explained why and what they did. I've heard of people using extra virgin olive oil instead of neatsfoot oil. Do you think that would work?
I'm about to find out if the next video explains how to dye the edges. LOL.
Dying has been a pain for me. Trying to get an even color on my project. It ends up a little darker than I wanted. I have resorted to just oil and antique. Different leathers take oil or dye differently. I used a sponge applicator once and it was too much dye in some places leaving a blotchy mess and by the time I got it evened out, it was too dark.I will give your technice a try. With oil, I let it have time to set in before I decide if it needs more. Again, thanks for the tips.
You’re welcome, I hope this helps you.
19:30, how do you keep the antique out of the stitch groove?? Especially you plan to use white thread.
It gets in there to start with but you just want to be sure to wipe it out when you wipe off the excess antique.
On my bottle of Fiebing's Low VOC leather dye it says "After dyeing, remove excess surface dye by rubbing briskly with a soft cloth.". Is that something that you ever do? I noticed that you didn't do that in the video.
What if you want to paint the letters on a name. At what point would you do that?
Do you always oil after dye on leather? See people saying before you dye. Or is it a personal preference?
Hey Joe, your videos and courses have helped me a lot as well as the templates you have. I had a question about Pro Resist and was wondering if there were alternatives to it or how much it’s needed in the process. I can’t seem to find any around me and I was hoping to get some projects finished up soon. Thanks
Joe, what do you think of Fiebings mink oil? I noticed that you applied the Neetsfoot oil before the dye was completely dry. I have usually allowed the dye to completely dry before adding my mink oil. So, it's ok to apply before the dye completely dries?
Can you use paints on say flower after you have dyed the belt Thanks
Great video! Thanks!
Great video and informative.
Do you want your leather damp or dry, when dying....?
Lots of ah ha moments. Question though, why would you not punch the holes in the belt before you dyed it so the dye would cover the holes as well and not create additional steps.
Hello, i bought a stamped leather belt at a thrift store but the leather has cracks and is quite stiff, may I know what products i can use to restore it?
How about dip dying? Could you do a video on the proper technique?
I have used Feibing's Pro Dye for many years, with very satisfactory results. Recently in our state (California) Feibing's Pro Dye has been unavailable due to new state regulations. I have tried their other dye products (Feibing's institutional dyes, that use more of an alcohol base), and the results were disappointing. I also tried the Angelus products still not really satisfied with how they perform either. (They also appear to be an alcohol-based product.) They tend to be blotchier and more uneven in coloring. Have you tried these products? Do you have any suggestions, or should I just relocate to another state so I can get the Pro Dye, LOL.
I will give the foam brushes from hardware and paint store a try, which might help. I have always used the wool daubers for dying. Another idea I had was to mix some of the dye with the Neatsfootoil and then apply it to see if it will make the application more even. I see that in your video you did something similar by oiling right after dying.
Typically, I don't dye saddlery as I prefer the character given by regular cleaning/oiling, sun, dirt and sweat over time. However smaller items like belts, wallets, ect., I will dye and antique.
Great stuff, Joe. I appreciated seeing a slightly different process than I have developed with a fantastic result. Is there a reason you prefer resolene over tan-kote?
I like the protection resolene offers. Especially on something that is getting antique. Resolene is formulated to seal and resist where the tan kote will allow penetration. Tan kote is great on a saddle over an oil finish. It will look great and allow for an even oil application after wear.
It is also good to use for thinning antique. However it won’t resist antique like the resolene will and I don’t feel it seals antique in as well either.
What are your thoughts on using something like olive oil instead of neatsfoot oil?
I all finished the bill can I oil it after ?
Do you use saddle oil to Even color out
Great video! Now I know why my dye was so splotchy.
What kind of oil ?
Great video Joe!! I’ve been struggling with dying. I’ve always been afraid to use pro dye after stamping a belt out and I’ve used just antique paste. Last belt I did I stamped oiled and then used dark brown antique and it ended up coming out blotchy so I ended up dying and black and stamping out another belt for the customer on another belt I made I stamped oiled applied tan coat, then antique paste finished off with tan coat the bell came out very light. I used mahogany paste and it just didn’t bring out that nice mahogany color only in the impression areas. Is it possible to use antique without tan coat on just a stamped belt.? But I do feel more comfortable now using pro die on a belt to bring out rich colors
Guess I should have finished watching rest of video. I don’t think I will ever apply antique paste on without using a resist first.
@@robmorse3917 you can definitely apply antique alone without a resist but it’s definitely a different look.
Is there a way to cut the shine from the resolene after it dries? Thanks.
I don’t know that you’ll cut it completely but a lighter thinner coat will sure help. Using the foam applicator really puts down a lot of product. Using a rag or the sheepskin might work better for you.
@@joemeling3216 Thanks for the reply. I will try a thinner coat. I used a dauber and it came out pretty heavily. Lol
The leather dye dobber’s ~ you know that you’re supposed to burn them first before you use them to dye with right!!
That sounds like a good trick. I’ll have to give it a try. I don’t typically use them. I prefer the foam chip brushes for dying large areas. Thanks for sharing that tip.
Wear gloves?