Final installment of the bluestone patio project. In this video we show you how to lay the thermal bluestone in a random pattern as well as cut the stone.
I am so impressed with you guys. We are putting in bluestone patio and this gives us a better understanding. We will grout the joints in our area but this is a great looking and well done job.
I prefer not to use steel bars but prefer rebar so I can use a big ass compactor to solidify everything. I would then use steel bars to correct the level of the patio using spray paint to mark and add or remove material. Compaction is the key to a lasting patio.
Love the blue stone patio. Im getting ready to tackle a similiar project myself but going to put a fire pit on the round patio like this one. I want to add a sitting wall around half the patio and was wondering if I should do the sitting wall first or the aptio first? look forward to your reply. Also, can I use a 2x4 with a level to achieve a level base?
0:00 Musical introduction to help focus your mind to kick ass 1:07 Stone dust, 1" screed pipes & screed bar to screed 2:24 Talk about bluestone for a min 2:35 Make lines to square with foundation if near the house 3:15 Put bluestone down & use rubber mallet to settle in and adjust, check level Blah Blah for circular patio 7:50 Edging 8:20 Polymeric sand -- make sure you clean all excess off before putting water on
Haha everyone's an expert huh? Good job boys the finish looks great and the vid is concise and straight forward.Do you guys ever seal your bluestone to give it a "wet look"? Once again nice work!..cheersPaul
Awesome job guys. I gave you a definite thumbs up, but I'd like to offer a couple of points to make your next video even better. 1. Shorten up your intro. It's way too long at 45 seconds. Believe me, your viewers are just fast forwarding past it. 2. You had some nice camera angles in part one, but parts dragged on too long. Not necessary to use up 90 seconds watching you dig a 12" hole. 3. A time lapse sequence on laying the stones would have been great. Again... fantastic job!!!
Nice job guys, I was wondering what the market/ demand is for bluestone, i own a property in Susquehanna PA with a mountain that has bluestone, was thinking tk open a quarry, what are your thought ? Thanks
Demand is high. Call a quarry and see if they’d be interested. Get ready to have your property demolished though. I can’t imagine you’ll be happy with outcome.
Is it safe to provide no seams for poly between bluestone tiles? I have them laid down touching tight edge to edge and now am afraid that tiles over time will settle unevenly creating noticable steps between tiles. What i am saying is that there is no forgiveness as they are perfectly leveled to each other, for now...
Great video guys. When you laid this irregular design did you first design it on a computer, draw it or just figure it out as you laid it? How would you know how many of each piece to buy/bring along?
You need to at least sketch it out or lay it out to the size you want to determine how many square feet your patio will be. For the circle it's pi r^2. For a regular rectangular patio you use length x width = square feet. After you've found out your sq ft you want to order about 5% more sq ft to compensate for bad pieces and cuts. As far as the pattern goes, because it's random there is no design. You fit every piece one by one as you go.
Nice video Well put together Professional landscape/Hardscape company here in Indiana Clean job well done We use sand here instead of the stone flume but also use the plastic edge restraint. Good job!
So those edge restraints don't move over time? How deep are the spikes you are using if they are not at least 3 feet below grade they will start to heave and shift around during the winter. Wouldn't it be better to do footing on the edge to hold the patio in place>?
Great questions. For really in-depth answers go to the ICPI website. www.icpi.org/paving-systems/concrete-pavers/installation There you will find all the information you need and rationale for why concrete doesn't work - especially in New England and colder climates. Good luck!
Does anyone have an opinion on what sawblades to use for the grinder in the circular saw? Also if you were back stopping around patio with a boulder wall would you build the wall first or the patio first? Thank you!
You shouldn't have to hammer each piece. It should be laid on 30mm of coarse river sand over around 80-100mm of road base or crusher dust. Why not use mortar for edging? It lasts longer surely.
You HAVE to hammer each piece otherwise it's going to settle. These guys are pros so why are you telling them what they should be doing. Installation process and materials differ from cold to warm climates. The only thing I would add to the installation process is that after you sweep your poly sand in the joints you should take your mallet and tap the top of each stone to help the joint sand settle to prevent air pockets. Other than that, spot on guys!
shaymoose17 If you screed properly you don't have to hammer each piece. Run a vibrating plate with some carpet on it , over swept in sand and it all levels off perfectly.
Why don't you make a video? I own my own landscape company in the same state as these guys and this is EXACTLY how we have done it for over 30 years now. Great job on this video
This type of "non masonry" shouldn't be allowed to "be build" by any city,county or state unless gets done by the homewoner,this "patio structure" within the next few years is everywhere BUT where is supposed to BE,homeowners be AWARE OF that!!!!! If you're paying to get a patio done DO IT THE RIGHT WAY FROM THE BEGINNING other wise something like the patio on this video you'll have to fix it within the next couple years!!!!
Hey Victor - not sure what's got you so upset here. We basically followed the ICPI standards for excavation and base prep, modified the setting bed from sand to stone dust, and used polymeric for joint sand. Five-plus years later, the patio still looks great, functions great, and the client still loves and uses it. So not sure what you think is so wrong. Curious, did you watch part one? Oh...and FYI...there is no masonry here - no mortar - making this garden hardscape dry set. It's rustic and softly installed into an informal garden setting.
Awesome job guys. I gave you a definite thumbs up, but I'd like to offer a couple of points to make your next video even better. 1. Shorten up your intro. It's way too long at 45 seconds. Believe me, your viewers are just fast forwarding past it. 2. You had some nice camera angles in part one, but parts dragged on too long. Not necessary to use up 90 seconds watching you dig a 12" hole. 3. A time lapse sequence on laying the stones would have been great. Again... fantastic job!!!
You will find the plastic edge restraints will fail over time. I use concrete to set the stone and a 4 inch deep 4 inch wide edge around the outside. 100 times better than plastic. I replaced a lot of patio edges done with failed restraints.
I have a huge blue stone patio surrounding a pool. It was installed probably in the 70’s...for the most part it’s still mostly solid and flat, however there are some areas sunken in, which pools water. Also some of the stones are popping up making a tripping hazard. What’s the best way to fix it? Can I do Individual areas or do I need to put in a new base and re-lay about 1000 pieces of big stone?😳
Hey Thomas! Yes, you can repair small areas. The trick is to take out the affected area and a few stones beyond. That way you can rework the base in the area that's sinking and marry it into a part of the base that is still stable.
Great job on the videos. Very informative and well made. I have a question for you. I am re building a patio with existing 12 by 12 exposed aggregate concrete blocks. Would you do anything different than the steps shown in your videos? Would you use the polymeric sand to lock the blocks together? Thanks
Another awesome job professionally done by The Garden Continuum crew... my congratulations on this job goes to the use of " Stone Dust ", it is heavy work, but you have a much stronger ground to work... once again my congratulations... all the way fom Sweden...
Nice job guys! Very informational rather than the poor blow bys the other vids have to offer. Alot of work for a small patio, but that's why you guys are pro's!
I have a bluestone patio that is in need of some love. We no longer have any Poly (?) between the stones (not sure if there ever was any). Can you tell me the actual name of the "Poly" that acts as a binder between the bluestone. Also can you recommend the best way to clean our bluestone patio? Many thanks!
We you polymeric super sand by gator/alliance. Use the slate grey color. To clean, I would use a mold and mildew remover that can attached to your hose. You may need to pressure wash if it's really dirty.
Is it worth paying to take bluestone from 1 house transport and install in another? Or cheaper just to buy new stone for the project? Have a friend redoing a house and we can take the someone but have to pay to take it up and transport.
About 1/4 inch. Many of the pavers have small bumps on the sides that act as spacing guides. Otherwise yes, by eye. For larger pavers you can buy spacers. For natural stone we go by eye. It takes practice and patience, but becomes easier in time.
I am so impressed with you guys. We are putting in bluestone patio and this gives us a better understanding. We will grout the joints in our area but this is a great looking and well done job.
Excellent technique and execution. Every job you do is your legacy and you guys get it!
crew did a nice job on this project
Great video
Nice work
I prefer not to use steel bars but prefer rebar so I can use a big ass compactor to solidify everything. I would then use steel bars to correct the level of the patio using spray paint to mark and add or remove material. Compaction is the key to a lasting patio.
How can you get the sub base so perfect to begin with and it been so important for the metal bars?
great job thanks for the video it helped me alot.
How would this installation be altered for planting grass/herbs between the bluestone?
Love the blue stone patio. Im getting ready to tackle a similiar project myself but going to put a fire pit on the round patio like this one. I want to add a sitting wall around half the patio and was wondering if I should do the sitting wall first or the aptio first? look forward to your reply. Also, can I use a 2x4 with a level to achieve a level base?
0:00 Musical introduction to help focus your mind to kick ass
1:07 Stone dust, 1" screed pipes & screed bar to screed
2:24 Talk about bluestone for a min
2:35 Make lines to square with foundation if near the house
3:15 Put bluestone down & use rubber mallet to settle in and adjust, check level
Blah Blah for circular patio
7:50 Edging
8:20 Polymeric sand -- make sure you clean all excess off before putting water on
Haha everyone's an expert huh? Good job boys the finish looks great and the vid is concise and straight forward.Do you guys ever seal your bluestone to give it a "wet look"? Once again nice work!..cheersPaul
Awesome job guys. I gave you a definite thumbs up, but I'd like to offer a couple of points to make your next video even better.
1. Shorten up your intro. It's way too long at 45 seconds. Believe me, your viewers are just fast forwarding past it.
2. You had some nice camera angles in part one, but parts dragged on too long. Not necessary to use up 90 seconds watching you dig a 12" hole.
3. A time lapse sequence on laying the stones would have been great.
Again... fantastic job!!!
Nice job guys,
I was wondering what the market/ demand is for bluestone, i own a property in Susquehanna PA with a mountain that has bluestone, was thinking tk open a quarry, what are your thought ?
Thanks
Demand is high. Call a quarry and see if they’d be interested. Get ready to have your property demolished though. I can’t imagine you’ll be happy with outcome.
Is it safe to provide no seams for poly between bluestone tiles? I have them laid down touching tight edge to edge and now am afraid that tiles over time will settle unevenly creating noticable steps between tiles. What i am saying is that there is no forgiveness as they are perfectly leveled to each other, for now...
Great video guys. When you laid this irregular design did you first design it on a computer, draw it or just figure it out as you laid it? How would you know how many of each piece to buy/bring along?
You need to at least sketch it out or lay it out to the size you want to determine how many square feet your patio will be. For the circle it's pi r^2. For a regular rectangular patio you use length x width = square feet. After you've found out your sq ft you want to order about 5% more sq ft to compensate for bad pieces and cuts. As far as the pattern goes, because it's random there is no design. You fit every piece one by one as you go.
will rain between different phases ruin this project?
Nice video. One question, would 1" of bedding (concrete) sand be a suitable alternative to stone dust for the final base?
Hey, how come no more videos?? Keep em coming.
Nice yard!
How wide are your joints?
Probably should add a little water to that stone dust.. And a hand tamp.. Other than that looks good
Nice video
Well put together
Professional landscape/Hardscape company here in Indiana
Clean job well done
We use sand here instead of the stone flume but also use the plastic edge restraint.
Good job!
Looks good boys
So those edge restraints don't move over time? How deep are the spikes you are using if they are not at least 3 feet below grade they will start to heave and shift around during the winter. Wouldn't it be better to do footing on the edge to hold the patio in place>?
Great questions. For really in-depth answers go to the ICPI website.
www.icpi.org/paving-systems/concrete-pavers/installation
There you will find all the information you need and rationale for why concrete doesn't work - especially in New England and colder climates. Good luck!
Sitting wall first!! Stay away from a 2x4 unless you know it's true. They bow!!
Does anyone have an opinion on what sawblades to use for the grinder in the circular saw? Also if you were back stopping around patio with a boulder wall would you build the wall first or the patio first? Thank you!
I have a question for you guys, do you leave the metal pipe in the dust?
no. we remove the pipes.
yes, you leave for the next crew.
You shouldn't have to hammer each piece. It should be laid on 30mm of coarse river sand over around 80-100mm of road base or crusher dust. Why not use mortar for edging? It lasts longer surely.
New England = no mortar. It cracks in the winter and never holds for more than a season or two. Plastic edging is the way to go. Tested and approved
You HAVE to hammer each piece otherwise it's going to settle. These guys are pros so why are you telling them what they should be doing. Installation process and materials differ from cold to warm climates. The only thing I would add to the installation process is that after you sweep your poly sand in the joints you should take your mallet and tap the top of each stone to help the joint sand settle to prevent air pockets. Other than that, spot on guys!
shaymoose17 If you screed properly you don't have to hammer each piece. Run a vibrating plate with some carpet on it , over swept in sand and it all levels off perfectly.
Why don't you make a video? I own my own landscape company in the same state as these guys and this is EXACTLY how we have done it for over 30 years now. Great job on this video
Lay the stone in mortar as well so much easier
This type of "non masonry" shouldn't be allowed to "be build" by any city,county or state unless gets done by the homewoner,this "patio structure" within the next few years is everywhere BUT where is supposed to BE,homeowners be AWARE OF that!!!!! If you're paying to get a patio done DO IT THE RIGHT WAY FROM THE BEGINNING other wise something like the patio on this video you'll have to fix it within the next couple years!!!!
Hey Victor - not sure what's got you so upset here. We basically followed the ICPI standards for excavation and base prep, modified the setting bed from sand to stone dust, and used polymeric for joint sand. Five-plus years later, the patio still looks great, functions great, and the client still loves and uses it. So not sure what you think is so wrong. Curious, did you watch part one? Oh...and FYI...there is no masonry here - no mortar - making this garden hardscape dry set. It's rustic and softly installed into an informal garden setting.
Not in my house. This will work in Florida for sure. Not in Pa
Awesome job guys. I gave you a definite thumbs up, but I'd like to offer a couple of points to make your next video even better.
1. Shorten up your intro. It's way too long at 45 seconds. Believe me, your viewers are just fast forwarding past it.
2. You had some nice camera angles in part one, but parts dragged on too long. Not necessary to use up 90 seconds watching you dig a 12" hole.
3. A time lapse sequence on laying the stones would have been great.
Again... fantastic job!!!
You will find the plastic edge restraints will fail over time. I use concrete to set the stone and a 4 inch deep 4 inch wide edge around the outside. 100 times better than plastic. I replaced a lot of patio edges done with failed restraints.
Awesome Result! Is it possible to use stone dust in the joints instead of polymeric sand?
I have a huge blue stone patio surrounding a pool. It was installed probably in the 70’s...for the most part it’s still mostly solid and flat, however there are some areas sunken in, which pools water. Also some of the stones are popping up making a tripping hazard. What’s the best way to fix it? Can I do Individual areas or do I need to put in a new base and re-lay about 1000 pieces of big stone?😳
Hey Thomas! Yes, you can repair small areas. The trick is to take out the affected area and a few stones beyond. That way you can rework the base in the area that's sinking and marry it into a part of the base that is still stable.
how much did the whole job cost ....that exact job thats a perfect size we want done at my house
The final product looks awesome! thanks for sharing this video!
Great video! What brand name did you use for the sand, and what color?
Polymeric sand is a type of joint sand. We use gray with bluestone.
Extremely helpful - thanks guys!
Great job on the videos. Very informative and well made. I have a question for you. I am re building a patio with existing 12 by 12 exposed aggregate concrete blocks. Would you do anything different than the steps shown in your videos? Would you use the polymeric sand to lock the blocks together? Thanks
Can you have the stone right next to one another or is the poly necessary for bluestone?
Another awesome job professionally done by The Garden Continuum crew...
my congratulations on this job goes to the use of " Stone Dust ", it is heavy work, but you have a much stronger ground to work... once again my congratulations... all the way fom Sweden...
Nice job guys! Very informational rather than the poor blow bys the other vids have to offer. Alot of work for a small patio, but that's why you guys are pro's!
I'm impressed with you job is good guys 👍
Que do muy bien el trabajo
I have a bluestone patio that is in need of some love. We no longer have any Poly (?) between the stones (not sure if there ever was any). Can you tell me the actual name of the "Poly" that acts as a binder between the bluestone. Also can you recommend the best way to clean our bluestone patio? Many thanks!
We you polymeric super sand by gator/alliance. Use the slate grey color. To clean, I would use a mold and mildew remover that can attached to your hose. You may need to pressure wash if it's really dirty.
Thanks!
Is it worth paying to take bluestone from 1 house transport and install in another? Or cheaper just to buy new stone for the project? Have a friend redoing a house and we can take the someone but have to pay to take it up and transport.
Super job, came out great! What's a rough price on a job like that?
Nice video guys. How big is the gap between stones and how do you set it? Just by eye?
About 1/4 inch. Many of the pavers have small bumps on the sides that act as spacing guides. Otherwise yes, by eye. For larger pavers you can buy spacers. For natural stone we go by eye. It takes practice and patience, but becomes easier in time.