RSV4 repairs
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- Transmission repairs, safety wiring and keyless filler cap installation
Safety wiring: 4:00
Thanks again to SENA for the Prism camera
#rideconnected
Tools Used:
Safety Wire Pliers
www.grainger.c...
Torque Wrench
store.snapon.c...
Excellent Shaun, thanks for a valuable video, you are very pedagogical. This is great.
apart from head and rod bolts torque everything by hand on track bike. they come apart so much, torquing to manufactures specs induces unwanted stretch/failure in fasteners
Good idea. I've heard the same advice from factory Honda race team mechanics.
Always a pleasure to watch you work on your RSV. I've never seen the tool you used to twist the safety wiring. Does it have a name (or did you self-fabricate)? You also checked which way it should be twisted; how do you determine this? Every video I watch I find something else I didn't know, which is priceless. Thanks so much.
Thanks. I added a link to the twisting pliers in the description. The pliers need to spin in the direction that twists the wire down over the fastener so it doesnt come loose. Safety wiring is almost an art form, if you want to learn more there are a lot of videos on how to do it but there are a lot of differing opinions. And most of what works on motorcycles has been perfected after years of practise on aircraft.
Hey Shaun thanks so much for these videos. I definitely have a greater understanding of how my 2010 factory works. Just wondering what your advise is on when I need to do my first valve inspection. Just passed 3k miles but have heard people recommending that you should do one at 600 miles? I bought the bike at 2,400 and have to assume they have never been checked. I live on Maui and there's no dealership here. I'll have to either ship her over to Oahu or do it myself which would mean buying some specialty tools and hoping I can pull it off. Thanks again!
Your model has a known issue with valve springs and valves. Do a valve clearance check as soon as you can. And if you ride it hard, dont follow the factory service intervals - check clearances 2 or 3 times more often than recommended.
Great vids you've helped answer a lot of my questions. Have you experienced the crank nut coming loose on any of your rebuilds? Could you do a video on how to re loctite and tighten the nut? I've heard you have to pull the flywheel off? 👍🏼
Thanks Shane. I've never had that problem - and I've never heard of it happening to anyone else I know with an RSV4. I torqued the nut to 150Nm each time and its never been a problem. What are you referring to with the flywheel?
What I'm trying to figure out is what I can remove and how I can safety wire the spring clamps on the various hoses.
The best thing to do is replace all the crap stock aprilia hose clamps with this kit: www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=8098
Steve C I used safety wire on a few hoses on my 10 when they seeped oil and I didn't have any spare clamps. I literally wrapped the wire around the hose and twisted till I squeezed the wire a good bit. I didn't go super tight as I feared cutting into the rubber.
They've helps yo great so far.
Did you work as a machinist in a previous life?
I did actually. I went to machinist school after I finished high school, and worked as a machinist for several companies between gigs as an app developer.
I worked at a "lot" of Bikes in the past, (Lot means like 10+) mostly Japanese Bikes, but one or two S1000rr´s where in there somewhere. I always had issued with getting these bolts off , ( actualy it where al nuts) becourse they where on so tight, + they had a "washer" where you bent 2 sides up to "lock" the nut.
Is this just Your bike who has this , or is it an aprrilia thing going on there ?
But tbh i totaly get your safety wire.. i cant have things like this in my mind while riding, it would distract me .
Thorsten Böhmer the lock washers are standard not just on aprilia but all brands and also on cars, trucks, airplanes etc. Its best to only use them once but thats up to the user.
wouldn't a simple lock tight would be easier than safty wire the bolts? I don't know the circumstances of your repairs and not trying to judge or be a dick, just an honest question.
No sweat BB, asking a question is not being a dick.
Locktite is great if the fastener is going to be installed for a long time, but this bolt is removed every time I want to change gearing. If that happens a few times the loctite residue builds up and the bolt can get stuck in the shaft and cause the head to snap off. And in the end thats exactly what happened here. Safety wire is cleaner and more reliable.