Some good discussion in the comments from some knowledgeable people. Here are some additional (and clarifying) thoughts: 1. Yes, you should shut down the pi first before killing the printer power. Forgot to film this, but it is best practise. 2. Despite the fact that I have shown ways of using less than 24V fans on a 24V system, and the fact that the developers of Marlin have acknowledged this as a solution and included it in their firmware. You are better off just using a 24V blower for part cooling. This is why my shopping links below are for 24V blowers. 3. The Noctua 40x10 fan I used flows less air than the cheaper fan that came with the printer. I have had zero issues so far with prints since fitting it, perhaps this is because I have a Hero Me duct fitted, which when I tested it seems to have a better seal around the hot end heat sink. A larger 40x20mm Noctua fan is linked below, and for only a dollar more, is definitely a safer bet to prevent heat creep and potential clogs. 4. The gauge of the wire I used was overkill. I mentioned this in the video and had a note in the description. That's what I had at the time, it still works, just harder to make the Dupont connectors neatly. 5. Some people in the know have commented that the capacitor is not a great idea. I tend to agree, and I don't recommend it, when enabling soft_PWM fixed the whine anyway.
www.overclockers.co.uk/noctua-nf-a4x20-flx-5000rpm-fan-40mm-fg-05w-nc.html For other people's reference. It's a shame they don't have room for 80mm fans be quiet pure rock fans are amazing
Here is a tip for soldering those XT60 connectors... Plug them together before soldering, this stops the pins pulling out of line when the plastic gets soft during soldering ;)
and it stops the plastic deforming making them tight to get back together. if they heat up and cool down together they will fit better together its an RC thing
@Teaching Tech First, thank you so much for all your help! Your videos so much detailed and helpful! I made this silent upgrade on my Ender-3, and found a much much better solution for 12V part cooling fan. Here's the deal: (On SKR Mini E3 boards, but guess it is the same on factory Ender mobo) The part cooling fan output is strange. The positive terminal is a CONSTANT 24V, and the ground is connected/disconnected via the PWM! It is crazy! So grab your DCDC step-down converter, connect it's positive input to the mobo fan 24V output, but you need to connect the DCDC ground input to a constant ground! Like on the power supply. Limit down the converter to 12V, then connect your 12V fan in the following way: The fan's 12V wire goes to step-down converter positive output, but the fan's ground is goes to the mobo fan ground. In this way the fan gets a constant 12V from the converter, and a PWM ground from the motherboard. It works! You change the fan speed on the printer between 0% and 100%, and the voltage on the fan changes between 0V and 12V. When you drive your fan 100% then there's no PWM sound at all. No need to change anything in the FW.
Just getting around to the video, but I can confirm (from right around the 5:00 min mark, the BTT SKR v1.3 does NOT have enough current to run the RPi running from one of the Max_Endstops (I measured about 1.9A from the X_Max) and Octoprint just wouldnt load. Great video, keep em up Mike.
great video, if you turn the crimp connectors over in your tool for the Dupont kit you will find that it crimps better and you are less likely to have one of the upright legs get damaged.
I got a pack of those LM2596 buck converters off of amazon awhile back. Pretty useful little modules. How I tend to solder my power wires on them is to first put a small bead of solder on all four of the pads, then all you have to do is heat up the bead and pad and press the appropriate wire lead into the melted solder. I also tend to give the lead of the wire a touch from the well tinned iron to get the solder to stick around it; that helps with welding the lead to the pad and making a sturdy connection.
The downside of using the controller box power supply is that you will not have an independent power supply for the pi. By having a separate power supply if you're using a relay to shut off the power in the event of thermal runaway you will still be able to monitor the Webcam feed to ensure that you don't have to call someone locally to put it out or contact the fire dept. I have a fire detection unit connected to pi as a safety also. Hope this helps.
Not to mention, if you want to work on the raspberry pi only (like updating / adding packages, doing changes on octoprint, uploading files, etc...) you'd need to turn on the printer also, which is a waste of power and noise
After watching your previous guides I decided to go with the EZABL rather than the BTouch, while looking at the TH3D site I found an additional item that I don't think you've mentioned, their Raspberry Pi direct wire power adapter (that will power both a Pi and their EZABL directly from the power supply). Thank you for for this video as I've been wondering how to use Noctua fans.
I was searching for power regulators and found this video. I had been watching your Videos for weeks as I just bought a CR 10S Pro. I use it to print 3D parts for my Model Train. Currently a Smoke Generator using a Fan to puff every stroke of the steam engine. When I saw your face and heard your voice I was shocked, but you used the Buck Convertor exactly the way I need to for my Smoke Heater Coil and MIni DC Can motor. I watched the video and yes I need quieter fans too. But then I saw the links OMG! about $1 is all I need to fix my problem. Now I can build the 6 Smoke Kits for my Train buddies and allow then to simply bring track voltage up to the smoke and the Buck Convertor will keep the heater coil at the correct temperature and not melt my 3D printer housing!!!!! It was an awesome night, thank you so much. And I love the 10S Pro my first smoke housing off of it was like jewelry.
Exactly what I was looking for! My Ender 3's mainboard fan just started making a horrible racket a few days ago. Gonna swap it out now for some Noctuas
Do you read minds?? I just bought a Noctua fan and was thinking: " Damn, it would be awesome if TT made a video about Installing the fan and the step down". Thank you a lot
Great tips, I've got two voltage regulators on my Ender 3, one to power a 92mm Zalman fan that I used to replace the PSU fan and one to power a 12V LED strip. I wouldn't used one for the Pi simply because I'd have to keep the Ender 3 on all the time as cutting the power to Pi without shutdown will undoubtedly cause OS corruption due to the nature of Linux. I definitely want to update my Hotend fan and main board fan now though, so much quieter and I've already got dampeners fitted. One thing worth mentioning is that there's a slightly neater way of wiring the voltage regulators than using a double XT60 connector. If you open the PSU and remove the plastic cover on the bottom there are a few spare terminals available on the terminal block which output 24V. I just crimped some connectors to the positive and negative wires that go to the regulator and connected them directly to the spare PSU terminals.
@@TeachingTech thanks for the reply. Yeah I've found it pretty neat like that. Currently got an led strip set up around the frame that comes from a voltage regulator that's connected to the terminal connectors. Makes it look a bit more stock I think
I think shutting down the printer power supply by octopi controlled relay may be better and definitely the ultimate quiet (and power saving) solution. You can buy it super cheap and use octoprint plugin for smart control. Yes, you have to power up octopi separately but it is not much of an issue since it runs great on any 2.1A phone USB charger.
even better, get a Sonoff (IoT relay) from your favourite chinese supplier and use octopi to power on/off your printer (don't forget to read up about safety!)
I bought 5V fans, they are cheaper and connected them all to 5v port , job done , no need any voltage coverter !!! double savings on money , and time ,and no adding extra unnecessary components !
Personally i would not heat shrink the converter because the componets will generate heat and heat shrink will keep it in. Id print a box for it that allows for air to get in and out.
@@jasonm2477 Yes but still... a Raspberry-pi can use up to 2.5 Amps, if you have a nice camera, small display and some lights added to it, it will be well over 3 Amps. Cheap buck converters don't work that efficient if they are used close to their max. continuous use, so say about 80% efficient, 20% loss (I did actually measure on converters like shown in the video). 3 Amps is 15 Watts at 5 V, so you will using about .3 Watts in the buck-converter and it will be getting pretty warm after a while. Of course these higher loads are only if you are printing fast with camera and display on but without cooling this is a bit much. That said, I have one hooked up in heatshrink and I noticed that it painful to my hands so I changed it to a more open aproach later and started calculating just then...
you definitly can remove the coil whine with a capacitor. you just need a bigger one. i have tested it and the lower pwm you want to use without coil whine the bigger the capacitor has to be. but at really low pwm it takes some time before the fan starts to spin.
That software fan solution is a great idea. Thanks. I have to say. The first time i have stumbled upon you, i didn't like your videos (7 printable upgrades for ender 3, Four ways to beat moire on your 3D printer). Since then your content got much better (How to tune your slicing settings video has helped me quite a bit). Keep up the good work.
Another thing is You coud do everything with just 1 buck converter to 12V. Every fan/heater is ground(-) switched with n-mosfet so you can put the positive (+) side of the fans to the 12v output of the Buck converter
@@tomaszbiskup891 don't see that you necessarily need to filter the signal. The electronics of these fans is universal between 12V and 24V, what happens if you connect a 12V to 24V, is that they will run way too fast, too loud, and will dissipate more heat on the motor windings than they can survive for any length of time. If you can just limit the amount of energy absorbed even just by crude PWM, it's fine.
@@SianaGearz I agree with You about motors but maybe some of the Hall sensor in fan cant handle higher voltages. When you change duty cycle You control the amout of energy to the fan and inertia average speed of blades. But its wrong to say that PWM regulate Voltage. 50% PWM of 24v its not really 12V especially when You put capacitor on the output.
Problem with buck converter is that you you lose speed control. Right now i have all my fans on one buck converter and i am looking for a solution for speed control and looks simple and functional enough. Btw. Can you guys check your ender 3 power supply fan? Mine was rated for 12V and connected to 24V rail. It has worked 6 months like that (also solved with buck convertor).
You should use thinner wire, because consumption of rapsberry pi is not that high. And when you setup voltage you should set higher not lower, to 5.2v. Instead of using buck converter for fan you can use a about 50 ohms 1w resistror, it depends on how much speed you want.
I'd make it a little higher like 5.1-5.2 even. At least usually works. because when drawing large amounts of current and using long wires the voltage tends to drop. and the raspberry Pi tends to like higher voltages by a little (you get that annoying voltage drop error icon otherwise)
@@TeachingTech TH3D released a vid taking exception to your suggestion to use the 4010 fan due to heat creep on longer prints. He didn't say anything about the 4020 other than he doesn't stock Noctua at all. He might not have read through where you corrected some details in the comments. I guess this field is like cars; no 2 behave the same and what works for 1 may not work for another. Thanks for your productions, I've learned a lot in a short time.
New thought, instead of the 1 to 2 XT60, why not use the extra terminals on the PSU and add 2 more leads out for 3 24v XT60's (or whatever connector preferred) available for extras? (Going from the Ender 3 both new and old PSU seems to have 3 sets of terminal outs). Love all your guides btw!
Wow what perfect timing! Working out the details of this upgrade was going to be my weekend project this week. Now I may be able to get everything in time to do the actual upgrade by Sunday. Thanks for another great video!
biggest thing for ender 3 owners is get a silent board from creality, it works amazingly. took my ender 3 which sounded like soviet aviation technology and now all i can really hear is the fans, im shocked by how well it works, itll only set you back about $30 aswell
@@toofpyk3923 found this... www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Nimbus-Conductor-CMP-Rated-Speaker/dp/B017SDE0KM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=16+gauge+double+insulated&qid=1595382078&sr=8-5 labeled as speaker wire...
as always your videos are well laid out,we appreciate all the time and effort you put into it.couldnt imagine the amount of research time.i have a similar system in the work using a little bigger regulator with voltage display.youve done a nice job.keep the vids coming.
Everyone else seems to be having better luck at finding a decent step down converter it seems. I've tried both a DFRobot DFR0205 (5V @ 5A max) and Hobbywing UBEC 2-6S (5V @ 3A max), and they both report under-volt warnings in the boot up log on my RasPi 3B+ w/ display + cam. Neither actually caused any issue when printing (I ran with each model for a week or so), but went back to the official power supply just to be safe.
Neither of those options look like the step down converters that are used for this application.. I don't see any way to vary the output on the DFRobot, and the Hobbywing is an entirely different product (WAY overkill for this). Search Amazon for "LM2596" - that's the chip that is used in these step down converters. You shouldn't be paying ~$50 for ONE converter, $10 will get you a pack of 6 of what you need.
@@alexn78666 Thanks for the response. I did eventually got the Hobbywing one working with help from another forum; turns out the wire I was using in one section was too thin (swapped it out with 20 AWG wire and it was all good)
Just a heads up, the affiliate link for the Noctua fan is a PWM 4 wire fan. Didn't realize it until it got here. If anyone else gets that fan, the yellow wire is the 12V.
I also think that the partcooling fan is going to be the lowdest part of the printer after replacing the main cooling fan with a noctua. I'm considering replacing it with a 2x 40mm noctua setup with an appropriate airduct. But that's some heavy investments in noctua fans...
You shouldn't put electrolytic capacitors across motors because of the back emf. 0.1uf ceramics are usually recommended. I'm not sure about brushless motors though, they would end up too far upstream of the motor itself.
i was about to say pwm when reduced make alot of noisy but nice to see you can change the frequancy to make it quieter :D 9:06 for the code timestamp for me :D
Idea is OK, but I have a small suggestion - don't use the same type of connector for 24V and 5V. You will only mistake them once :( She 2.5A is not too much for general connectors - and the best idea is to solder there directly the MicroUSB cable for the Pi.
Plus on the step-down for the fan, you can use the smallest and dirt cheap buck converter - it consumes so little power that even the smallest one is far sufficient ;)
The primary purpose of a buck converter is not as a voltage regulator but rather a voltage multiplier. Of course a voltage regulator is employed for the new voltage.
If your going to add capacitors to a pwm signal, then make sure they are 105'C capacitors with a Low ESR, as they are designed for high frequency applications.
honestly 3d printer boards should include a 24 to 12v step down...... it's not that hard to include one but I get every cent counts. they could also include a seperate motor pin and seperate fan etc pin or hotend-heated bed pin. heated beds + motors make more sense to use 24v. otherwise 12v is fine for everything else. heck even 12v is fine if you have proper cables really. mostly the motors that benefit from 24v (more torque less noise. specially true with TMC drivers)
If the hot end fan is on all the time, why connect it via the main board? Why not do what you did with the Pi and connect the converter direct to the main supply?
What size wire do you recommend for the wiring the Pi to the PSU? I've seen people use 12, 16, 18 AWG. Is there a difference between these, or is it negligible for the printer and pi combo? Thank you for all your hard work!
One other issue that might arise when you have to shut down in an emergency when powering a pi. If you have to shut down in an emergency...aka crash etc....You will power the pi down improperly and may cause an issue
Hi, thanks for your great videos. I just bought my first 3d printer which is the Ender - 3 pro, and I have been following your videos along to get into this hobby. I am wondering now, if I can use the damper on the pro version as well since the gear on the step motors can't be pulled out. Have you tried installing dampers on the pro version yet?(Sorry, its a little bit off topic)
My version went straight on, but I'm increasingly reading about users in the same situation as you. Hopefully my next Creality printer has this so I can investigate.
That doesn't apply cleanly to brushless fans, their impedance isn't constant meaning you'll get peaks and drops in the supply voltage. You don't get a clean 12V if you place two identical 12V brushless DC fans in series, even if your multi meter sais so. The multimeter shows average voltage over the terminals. This is also why a 50% duty cycle 24V signal will show as 12V, while it's actually still going 0 to 24V. More technical discussion here: forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=6310#p35390
@@stefanwilkens You don't need clean 12V to power the fans, burst supply is in order just as long as you don't overheat the motor windings and the MOSFETs. Otherwise the brushless control boards in them are usually fine with 24V. So two fans fighting for bursts of power in series is adequate.
Thanks for the informative video!! Along these lines I was thinking of adding 2 Noctua fans, one for my hot end and the other for my electronics. With that said instead of using a buck converter, my idea was to use 2 NF-A4x10 FLX 12v fans and run them in series off of the hot end connection. This should drop the voltage down for both fans to 12v and have them both running 24x7, which is what I want vice the electronics fan being tied to the parts cooling fan. Is this a realistic solution, or is there something that I am not considering that will cause me problems down the road?
Not sure if anyone mentioned it, by why not just used a resistor in series to drop the voltage on the hotend and mainboard fans? The Notcua 40x10mm fans are drawing around 40 mA at 12 VDC (according to the rating). So, to drop the other 12 VDC, the resistance would be equal to 12 volts/.04 Amps, so 300 Ohms (substitute the current rating for your fan to find the resistance value). Also make sure it's rated for the right power, as that would equate to about .5 Watts, so should use one rated at or above 1 Watt. Something like this: a.co/d/0t4oFFW
There have been people reporting frying the 12v fan if supplied with 24v at 50% pwm, so I would not really advise it. There are also some cheap 24V 5015 fans running on ball bearing from GDSTIME on aliexpress, and be sure they are ball bearing as the normal sleeve bearing will wear out very quickly (one I had lasted 2 prints then the sleeve bearing became noisy)
Hi there hope you can help i have changed my hot end fan to the same one in your video and used the same buck converter and that side of it is now working great. but now my part cooling fan seems to make this strange buzzing pulsing sound that changes with speed but almost goes when at full speed are you able to help with this. I have a Ender 3v2 with a 4.2.7 Silent board Cheers in advance
No, 50% of pwm does not mean it is 50% of voltage. it's 50% of the time, but full voltage at that time. You'll fry your fan eventually if you think you can run 12v fan on a 24v 50% pwm... it's true that is what the buck converter does, but he uses a capacitor to keep the voltage at 50% and some feedback loop to correct it based on actual load....
To control my 40mm board fan on my A8 I just spliced the negative side with a trimpot before going to the supply. Although it's 12V with a 12V fan and I'm only stepping it down a little bit as it was a bit noisy on full power. I guess you needed the buck because 24V down to 12V is a bit of a heat dissipation issue?
I did wire up the cooling fan exactly like you showed, a Noctua 12V fan, and the buck converter is putting out 12V when the fan is set to 100% (255). However on lower speeds the voltage is too low then and the fan won’t start spinning. Even on 20% the voltage isn’t enough. How did you get around that?
I tried using the motherboard connectors on the ender 3 to power my pi3 b+, while it did supply power it only got so far into the boot up process before cutting out and then it would keep on trying and failing in a loop. I just dont think there is enough juice to power it.
thanks for putting this out there. I was about to test it with my pi3 B+ too but the minimum power requirements do seem rather high from stock and Michael shows a pi2 B in the video. I may try this with my 3B (not +) as I have many power draw options disabled there such as the HDMI, bluetooth, and I even have a USB cord that I have removed the power lead from so that it can transmit data to the onboard SD card from octoprint but it does not actually provide any power to the ender 3's main board.
I noticed that the mainboard fan also isn't exactly quiet plus the hole in the lid is smaller than the fan. So I'm gonna print a new lid and put another noctua fan in as mainboard fan. I also want this fan to be powered off the hotend cooling fan so it will run all the time (standard fan connector only runs if part cooling fan is running). Can anyone tell me if I could just hook it up to the buck converter in addition to the hotend cooling fan? If so how would one best split the female dupont connector?
Hey Michael, I am not sure if I got this right: At 5:17 min you talk about avoiding buck converters completely. Does this mean I can simply power my Raspberry pi 3 from the Ender 3 mainboard with a simple 2 wire connector (using your wire diagram at 5:31 min)? That would be absolutely awesome! Or did I get this wrong? Greetings from Germany Michael
Why everyone cuts the cable? Do it like me an just add an additional cable to the powersupply.. there are planty of terminals where you can install a seperate power line to your buck converter, instead of destroying the original cable !
Apologies if this has been asked before, but isn't it also an option to take a ring crimped lead from the spare terminals on the power supply and takign that to the buck convertors. This is instead of modifying the original XT60 connector? less joints, and simpler connections...
Great video, but creality printers now have a shared 24v+ to the heater and both fans. They control the pwm using the 0V- line that runs back to the board on each component. If you know what could be done about that I'd be highly interested!
The wire aug you are showing is way overkill for the current you are using. You can use substantiallu smaller aug wire. I prefer the wires from cat 6 cable but cat5e should be fine. I also prefer a solid conductor but typically can only get that if you have a source for bulk cable. The stranded works fine.
A good idea for a vid would be to try neopixel add on for temp related colours shown in marlin. I have neopixel stick added under the chin at front of the bullseye. It’s great as white but temp indication and ready indication etc would be cool. I can’t find anywhere aside from a repo that says it needs separate temp sensor and that it can’t be done from the Creality board?? Say it ain’t so! Lol.
Thank you, it's a very valuable information you provided here. I tried to install the power supply for the RPi from the PSU of my Ender 3 but run into problems with the buck converter (LM 2596). After wiring, the input side shows a voltage of 24V. On the output side, measured on the connector points (no wiring there yet) it shows always 0V whatever the position of the 'adjustment' screw is. I turned it clockwise and also counter-clockwise. The multi-meter always shows a voltage of zero. I tried 2 different LM2597, in both cases the output is zero. Any advise what I may do wrong? Thanks
This was great. could you do a video on converting the Anycubic Viper to Marlin 2.0 please? I haven't been able to find one. Or convert it to the BTT SKR1.4 Turbo as I have a spare board. Thanks any keep up the good work!
One thought, what do you think about (if possible) hacking a micro usb cable so it connects to the buck in the other end instead of having a regular USB connector there? (Thus using it to feed the Pi normally)
Think I found the answer. This should do the trick, just attack the GND and +5v cables and connect to the buck. www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Connector-MicroUSB-Replacement-Raspberry/dp/B07BMLMZ72/
Are you using Dupont connectors for speed and convenience in case you want to swap the fans out or something? Why do you go for Dupont connects instead of just soldering together? Thanks in advance
Powering a Linux based system such as Octoprint up and down without doing a proper shutdown may corrupt the file system. If people are going to be wiring up the Pi like this then they probably should be issuing a shutdown command on the interface before turningoff the printer just to be on the safeside.
True. But how long do you wait after shutdown? I guess on the pi there are lights indicating that but I plan to use a rpi zero, that I will place inside the ender 3 board case. A first idea would be to use a ups+ battery. Maybe I can tell the pi somehow to issue shutdown command, if it looses "normal" power input. What do you think about that?
OR you could just wing it, i mean chances are, it'll take a thousand tries or more to shoot down the filesystem, so keep a backup and when it happens, just copy it over?
While you are absolutely correct concerning performing a proper linux shutdown, I've simply cut power to shutdown my pi's literally hundreds of times across four different printers over the course of a year and have never had an issue. If it wasn't so easy to re-image them, I'd probably take more care with issuing a proper shutdown each time.
@@trohn_javolta8485 Actually the process is very quick so rather than complicate things simply issue the shutdown command from the Octoprint interface, wait 10 seconds and turn off the printer. That should be plenty of time!
Totally agree, had some friends where their RPi Octprint sd crashed and had to be restored. On the other hand this wiring would be great for an ESP3D solution which is much less sensitive to been power off hard.
Looks like there’s no such thing as a “parallel XT60 adapter”. It’s literally just regular connectors wired together, so you might as well just get a 10 pack of male/female pairs for cheaper and do it yourself.
I see from many reviews that a lot of these XT60 adapters are very cheaply made. Is it simply recommended to make your own? A lot of them say "no wires" and yet they have the crappiest solder job ever. But I guess adding a wire to solder them good would have some other kind of impact?
Complete beginner here, have spent about 5 hours struggling to connect the wires on the buck converter, so bear with me. Nor am i familiar with the raspberry pi or the conenctors on the ender 3. First question, is the wiring and end connector the end the same on the buck converter on both ends? So 2 xt60 ports? Also, where do I pluf it in, which part on the ender 3 pro? and to what? ngithmare at the moment. great video, unfortunately not enough clear video on this. great video btw
Nice work, My only comment is I that I thought, and i could be wrong about this, I'm not a PI pro or electronic wiz. The gpios were mainly for out going power . If you plug input power in there you skip the PIs voltage regulator and spike protection . I see you slightly under volted it anyway so should be fine, but is some people bucks might not be variable and may over volt. Happy to be corrected on this. This could be for the older RPis?
The 5V pins on the PiHat header are not GPIO pins, they are power pins. When you're powering the Pi through the hat header rather than the dedicated USB power input, you're circumventing a fuse and a Zero Volt Diode, which is actually a MOSFET circuit that passes current one way, but with less voltage drop than a simple diode junction. The ZVD is needed for specification compliance reasons, because if someone were to plug a Pi into a USB hub, a computer, etc, and a Pi also had another power source connected to it via the PiHat header, backfeeding of power into USB host is strictly prohibited. But if you're plugging your own power supply into the Pi, you don't need to protect it with a ZVD. Besides, they sometimes had the ZVD, sometimes they didn't, seems they treat it as optional. The fuse is also optional, as these little step down converters simply won't deliver all much more current than 3A to begin with. You still get a spike crowbar regardless which way you connect that triggers at somewhere around 6V. You can set 5.5V on your regulator and i'm fairly certain that everything will be fine. Keeping the fuse would be ideal, as if the voltage rises above 6V, the fuse can prevent the damage to the crowbar. But eh, a Pi is not such a loss.
someone below asked about soldering the converter from the power supply into a custom USB header to plug into the Pi instead of using the GPIO. wouldn't that be the best of both worlds (having the added protection, and also not relying on a separate power supply)? @@SianaGearz
@@Cidriel nothing speaks against chopping apart a USB cable and soldering the wires to a step-down regulator. And it's fine to use a super cheap shoddy cable too, since you only need a short section of it so its resistance won't matter, and aren't going to keep tugging on it or plugging it in and out, so its strain relief quality won't matter, and data lines aren't connected on the USB socket of the Pi used for power, so you're not gonna fry Pi's processor in the unlikely event that the cable shorts out internally.
@@SianaGearz that's good to hear! thank you for the tip. I have plenty of those short 5" usb cables from various electronics and no use for them so this sounds like a good way to repurpose one and actually put it into service for once.
Better to use HW-613 Dc-Dc Step Down, it's only 20x10x5mm, and has 12 1.2Ah output sufficient for a fan, and so small to put it into the wiring sheath just few cm over the hot end, and don't need to open the mainboard cover.
Where to Find the Relay Someone mentioned to me a YYG-2 Relay but wich Voltage? 24, 12 or 5v ? The PSU is 24 the Pi is 5v Wich one to use? I AM LOST XD
Some good discussion in the comments from some knowledgeable people. Here are some additional (and clarifying) thoughts:
1. Yes, you should shut down the pi first before killing the printer power. Forgot to film this, but it is best practise.
2. Despite the fact that I have shown ways of using less than 24V fans on a 24V system, and the fact that the developers of Marlin have acknowledged this as a solution and included it in their firmware. You are better off just using a 24V blower for part cooling. This is why my shopping links below are for 24V blowers.
3. The Noctua 40x10 fan I used flows less air than the cheaper fan that came with the printer. I have had zero issues so far with prints since fitting it, perhaps this is because I have a Hero Me duct fitted, which when I tested it seems to have a better seal around the hot end heat sink. A larger 40x20mm Noctua fan is linked below, and for only a dollar more, is definitely a safer bet to prevent heat creep and potential clogs.
4. The gauge of the wire I used was overkill. I mentioned this in the video and had a note in the description. That's what I had at the time, it still works, just harder to make the Dupont connectors neatly.
5. Some people in the know have commented that the capacitor is not a great idea. I tend to agree, and I don't recommend it, when enabling soft_PWM fixed the whine anyway.
The linked Noctua 40x20 is a 5v fan. Unfortunately, Noctua doesn't make a 24v fan in either the 40mm or 50mm size range.
Teaching Tech I see you mention a4x10pwm on the list but you used a4x10 flx Noctua .The difference matters or not?
James that is to use with the buck converter.
Ozzy since they are running at 100% permanently I don't believe it matters.
www.overclockers.co.uk/noctua-nf-a4x20-flx-5000rpm-fan-40mm-fg-05w-nc.html
For other people's reference. It's a shame they don't have room for 80mm fans be quiet pure rock fans are amazing
Here is a tip for soldering those XT60 connectors... Plug them together before soldering, this stops the pins pulling out of line when the plastic gets soft during soldering ;)
and it stops the plastic deforming making them tight to get back together. if they heat up and cool down together they will fit better together its an RC thing
@Teaching Tech First, thank you so much for all your help! Your videos so much detailed and helpful! I made this silent upgrade on my Ender-3, and found a much much better solution for 12V part cooling fan. Here's the deal: (On SKR Mini E3 boards, but guess it is the same on factory Ender mobo) The part cooling fan output is strange. The positive terminal is a CONSTANT 24V, and the ground is connected/disconnected via the PWM! It is crazy! So grab your DCDC step-down converter, connect it's positive input to the mobo fan 24V output, but you need to connect the DCDC ground input to a constant ground! Like on the power supply. Limit down the converter to 12V, then connect your 12V fan in the following way: The fan's 12V wire goes to step-down converter positive output, but the fan's ground is goes to the mobo fan ground.
In this way the fan gets a constant 12V from the converter, and a PWM ground from the motherboard. It works! You change the fan speed on the printer between 0% and 100%, and the voltage on the fan changes between 0V and 12V. When you drive your fan 100% then there's no PWM sound at all. No need to change anything in the FW.
This is very interesting! It would make things so much easier! Have you tested this on SKR Mini E3 V2 as well?
Just getting around to the video, but I can confirm (from right around the 5:00 min mark, the BTT SKR v1.3 does NOT have enough current to run the RPi running from one of the Max_Endstops (I measured about 1.9A from the X_Max) and Octoprint just wouldnt load. Great video, keep em up Mike.
great video, if you turn the crimp connectors over in your tool for the Dupont kit you will find that it crimps better and you are less likely to have one of the upright legs get damaged.
I got a pack of those LM2596 buck converters off of amazon awhile back. Pretty useful little modules. How I tend to solder my power wires on them is to first put a small bead of solder on all four of the pads, then all you have to do is heat up the bead and pad and press the appropriate wire lead into the melted solder. I also tend to give the lead of the wire a touch from the well tinned iron to get the solder to stick around it; that helps with welding the lead to the pad and making a sturdy connection.
Great info, thanks for sharing.
The downside of using the controller box power supply is that you will not have an independent power supply for the pi. By having a separate power supply if you're using a relay to shut off the power in the event of thermal runaway you will still be able to monitor the Webcam feed to ensure that you don't have to call someone locally to put it out or contact the fire dept. I have a fire detection unit connected to pi as a safety also. Hope this helps.
Not to mention, if you want to work on the raspberry pi only (like updating / adding packages, doing changes on octoprint, uploading files, etc...) you'd need to turn on the printer also, which is a waste of power and noise
Just plug the pi into a different power supply? It's not like you're permanently modifying the board.
After watching your previous guides I decided to go with the EZABL rather than the BTouch, while looking at the TH3D site I found an additional item that I don't think you've mentioned, their Raspberry Pi direct wire power adapter (that will power both a Pi and their EZABL directly from the power supply).
Thank you for for this video as I've been wondering how to use Noctua fans.
I was searching for power regulators and found this video. I had been watching your Videos for weeks as I just bought a CR 10S Pro. I use it to print 3D parts for my Model Train. Currently a Smoke Generator using a Fan to puff every stroke of the steam engine. When I saw your face and heard your voice I was shocked, but you used the Buck Convertor exactly the way I need to for my Smoke Heater Coil and MIni DC Can motor. I watched the video and yes I need quieter fans too. But then I saw the links OMG! about $1 is all I need to fix my problem. Now I can build the 6 Smoke Kits for my Train buddies and allow then to simply bring track voltage up to the smoke and the Buck Convertor will keep the heater coil at the correct temperature and not melt my 3D printer housing!!!!! It was an awesome night, thank you so much. And I love the 10S Pro my first smoke housing off of it was like jewelry.
Exactly what I was looking for! My Ender 3's mainboard fan just started making a horrible racket a few days ago. Gonna swap it out now for some Noctuas
Do you read minds?? I just bought a Noctua fan and was thinking: " Damn, it would be awesome if TT made a video about Installing the fan and the step down". Thank you a lot
Great tips, I've got two voltage regulators on my Ender 3, one to power a 92mm Zalman fan that I used to replace the PSU fan and one to power a 12V LED strip.
I wouldn't used one for the Pi simply because I'd have to keep the Ender 3 on all the time as cutting the power to Pi without shutdown will undoubtedly cause OS corruption due to the nature of Linux.
I definitely want to update my Hotend fan and main board fan now though, so much quieter and I've already got dampeners fitted.
One thing worth mentioning is that there's a slightly neater way of wiring the voltage regulators than using a double XT60 connector. If you open the PSU and remove the plastic cover on the bottom there are a few spare terminals available on the terminal block which output 24V. I just crimped some connectors to the positive and negative wires that go to the regulator and connected them directly to the spare PSU terminals.
Great tip, I didn't think to check the PSU connectors.
@@TeachingTech thanks for the reply. Yeah I've found it pretty neat like that. Currently got an led strip set up around the frame that comes from a voltage regulator that's connected to the terminal connectors. Makes it look a bit more stock I think
I think shutting down the printer power supply by octopi controlled relay may be better and definitely the ultimate quiet (and power saving) solution. You can buy it super cheap and use octoprint plugin for smart control. Yes, you have to power up octopi separately but it is not much of an issue since it runs great on any 2.1A phone USB charger.
even better, get a Sonoff (IoT relay) from your favourite chinese supplier and use octopi to power on/off your printer (don't forget to read up about safety!)
I bought 5V fans, they are cheaper and connected them all to 5v port , job done , no need any voltage coverter !!! double savings on money , and time ,and no adding extra unnecessary components !
Personally i would not heat shrink the converter because the componets will generate heat and heat shrink will keep it in. Id print a box for it that allows for air to get in and out.
good advice
I like this, post it on thingiverse
if it is an actual buck converter it should be over 90% efficient and will generate very little heat
@@jasonm2477 Yes but still... a Raspberry-pi can use up to 2.5 Amps, if you have a nice camera, small display and some lights added to it, it will be well over 3 Amps. Cheap buck converters don't work that efficient if they are used close to their max. continuous use, so say about 80% efficient, 20% loss (I did actually measure on converters like shown in the video).
3 Amps is 15 Watts at 5 V, so you will using about .3 Watts in the buck-converter and it will be getting pretty warm after a while. Of course these higher loads are only if you are printing fast with camera and display on but without cooling this is a bit much.
That said, I have one hooked up in heatshrink and I noticed that it painful to my hands so I changed it to a more open aproach later and started calculating just then...
@@jasonm2477 other youtubers have shown the efficiency to be on average 75%
you definitly can remove the coil whine with a capacitor. you just need a bigger one. i have tested it and the lower pwm you want to use without coil whine the bigger the capacitor has to be. but at really low pwm it takes some time before the fan starts to spin.
That software fan solution is a great idea. Thanks. I have to say. The first time i have stumbled upon you, i didn't like your videos (7 printable upgrades for ender 3, Four ways to beat moire on your 3D printer). Since then your content got much better (How to tune your slicing settings video has helped me quite a bit). Keep up the good work.
Its not. The meter averages 50% duty pwm to 12V but you still getting impulses of 24V just with 50% duty cycle. You need LC filter to smooth it out.
Another thing is You coud do everything with just 1 buck converter to 12V. Every fan/heater is ground(-) switched with n-mosfet so you can put the positive (+) side of the fans to the 12v output of the Buck converter
@@tomaszbiskup891 don't see that you necessarily need to filter the signal. The electronics of these fans is universal between 12V and 24V, what happens if you connect a 12V to 24V, is that they will run way too fast, too loud, and will dissipate more heat on the motor windings than they can survive for any length of time. If you can just limit the amount of energy absorbed even just by crude PWM, it's fine.
@@SianaGearz I agree with You about motors but maybe some of the Hall sensor in fan cant handle higher voltages. When you change duty cycle You control the amout of energy to the fan and inertia average speed of blades.
But its wrong to say that PWM regulate Voltage. 50% PWM of 24v its not really 12V especially when You put capacitor on the output.
Problem with buck converter is that you you lose speed control. Right now i have all my fans on one buck converter and i am looking for a solution for speed control and looks simple and functional enough. Btw. Can you guys check your ender 3 power supply fan? Mine was rated for 12V and connected to 24V rail. It has worked 6 months like that (also solved with buck convertor).
You should use thinner wire, because consumption of rapsberry pi is not that high. And when you setup voltage you should set higher not lower, to 5.2v. Instead of using buck converter for fan you can use a about 50 ohms 1w resistror, it depends on how much speed you want.
I'd make it a little higher like 5.1-5.2 even. At least usually works. because when drawing large amounts of current and using long wires the voltage tends to drop. and the raspberry Pi tends to like higher voltages by a little (you get that annoying voltage drop error icon otherwise)
You want to use a CERAMIC smoothing capacitor. Electrolytic wont smooth the harmonic frequencies in the PWM signal 'fast enough'.
You need an LC filter - look it up
Man, I have almost as much $ in parts planned for my Ender as the printer itself cost and haven't even taken delivery. 😨😁😂
That's half of the fun :)
@@TeachingTech TH3D released a vid taking exception to your suggestion to use the 4010 fan due to heat creep on longer prints. He didn't say anything about the 4020 other than he doesn't stock Noctua at all. He might not have read through where you corrected some details in the comments.
I guess this field is like cars; no 2 behave the same and what works for 1 may not work for another.
Thanks for your productions, I've learned a lot in a short time.
I've close to doubled the cost of my ender with the additions. mine is a week old now, and I don't regret a thing!
Yep, 300 on printer 300 on mods. Funsies!
at this point youd be better off buying a prusa to save you time. unless the project is what you’re after
Not sure if I'd consider a gas flame "mild heat" :)
I cringed a bit too! A micro soldering torch is far more accurate source of heat.
I often use a blow torch, much faster
I placed a buck converter for 12V into the PSU. And to avoid troubles i made 24V-XT60 and 12V-XT30
New thought, instead of the 1 to 2 XT60, why not use the extra terminals on the PSU and add 2 more leads out for 3 24v XT60's (or whatever connector preferred) available for extras? (Going from the Ender 3 both new and old PSU seems to have 3 sets of terminal outs).
Love all your guides btw!
That's a great suggestion, I hadn't thought of looking under the PSU cover for spare terminals.
Can probably de-rate that output a bit after wrapping it in a cozy plastic blanket to decrease heat radiation.
Wow what perfect timing! Working out the details of this upgrade was going to be my weekend project this week. Now I may be able to get everything in time to do the actual upgrade by Sunday. Thanks for another great video!
biggest thing for ender 3 owners is get a silent board from creality, it works amazingly. took my ender 3 which sounded like soviet aviation technology and now all i can really hear is the fans, im shocked by how well it works, itll only set you back about $30 aswell
Maybe add the appropriate type/gauge wire to the shopping list too?
Yes! I have been trolling around Amazon and cannot find a wire with both leads in one sheath. (I have seen in other videos that 16 AWG is used)
@@toofpyk3923 found this... www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Nimbus-Conductor-CMP-Rated-Speaker/dp/B017SDE0KM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=16+gauge+double+insulated&qid=1595382078&sr=8-5 labeled as speaker wire...
Since I don’t think anybody else has said anything, QUIETEN is not a word. It’s just quiet. “Quiet your 3D printed”. Otherwise, thanks for the vid!
A 220uF Cap is way to big in my opinion, you'd need something like a RC fitler to really improve that.
I'd start with a 0.1uF ceramic, I doubt that you need a polarized cap. Interesting experiment #437.
Do you ever sleep? Great video, a little over my head! But I do understand what you did. Thanks!
as always your videos are well laid out,we appreciate all the time and effort you put into it.couldnt imagine the amount of research time.i have a similar system in the work using a little bigger regulator with voltage display.youve done a nice job.keep the vids coming.
Everyone else seems to be having better luck at finding a decent step down converter it seems. I've tried both a DFRobot DFR0205 (5V @ 5A max) and Hobbywing UBEC 2-6S (5V @ 3A max), and they both report under-volt warnings in the boot up log on my RasPi 3B+ w/ display + cam. Neither actually caused any issue when printing (I ran with each model for a week or so), but went back to the official power supply just to be safe.
Neither of those options look like the step down converters that are used for this application.. I don't see any way to vary the output on the DFRobot, and the Hobbywing is an entirely different product (WAY overkill for this). Search Amazon for "LM2596" - that's the chip that is used in these step down converters. You shouldn't be paying ~$50 for ONE converter, $10 will get you a pack of 6 of what you need.
@@alexn78666 Thanks for the response. I did eventually got the Hobbywing one working with help from another forum; turns out the wire I was using in one section was too thin (swapped it out with 20 AWG wire and it was all good)
Just a heads up, the affiliate link for the Noctua fan is a PWM 4 wire fan. Didn't realize it until it got here. If anyone else gets that fan, the yellow wire is the 12V.
I also think that the partcooling fan is going to be the lowdest part of the printer after replacing the main cooling fan with a noctua. I'm considering replacing it with a 2x 40mm noctua setup with an appropriate airduct. But that's some heavy investments in noctua fans...
In Aus they are stupid expensive, I understand.
You shouldn't put electrolytic capacitors across motors because of the back emf. 0.1uf ceramics are usually recommended. I'm not sure about brushless motors though, they would end up too far upstream of the motor itself.
.1 ceramic is for electrical noise not audible noise.
i was about to say pwm when reduced make alot of noisy but nice to see you can change the frequancy to make it quieter :D
9:06 for the code timestamp for me :D
Idea is OK, but I have a small suggestion - don't use the same type of connector for 24V and 5V. You will only mistake them once :( She 2.5A is not too much for general connectors - and the best idea is to solder there directly the MicroUSB cable for the Pi.
Plus on the step-down for the fan, you can use the smallest and dirt cheap buck converter - it consumes so little power that even the smallest one is far sufficient ;)
The primary purpose of a buck converter is not as a voltage regulator but rather a voltage multiplier. Of course a voltage regulator is employed for the new voltage.
About the black noctua fans shown in your video, can you make a video showing us how to paint it if that's what you did?
Is it possible to regulate the voltage of the hotend fan throught firmware? From 24V to 12V
How about using two 12v fans in series for the part cooling? That should work also.
Thanks for the video!
quite fans push less air PLA heat creep is a big problem 24v fans push more air, just use something to dampen vibration, larger fans are also quiet.
you can just use a string of rectifier diodes to drop the voltage. not as efficient as a buck converter, but simpler and more reliable.
Very nice install job as usual. Excellent tutorial.
If your going to add capacitors to a pwm signal, then make sure they are 105'C capacitors with a Low ESR, as they are designed for high frequency applications.
honestly 3d printer boards should include a 24 to 12v step down...... it's not that hard to include one but I get every cent counts. they could also include a seperate motor pin and seperate fan etc pin or hotend-heated bed pin.
heated beds + motors make more sense to use 24v. otherwise 12v is fine for everything else. heck even 12v is fine if you have proper cables really. mostly the motors that benefit from 24v (more torque less noise. specially true with TMC drivers)
If the hot end fan is on all the time, why connect it via the main board?
Why not do what you did with the Pi and connect the converter direct to the main supply?
What size wire do you recommend for the wiring the Pi to the PSU? I've seen people use 12, 16, 18 AWG. Is there a difference between these, or is it negligible for the printer and pi combo? Thank you for all your hard work!
Would love to know this too!
What gauge did you end up going with?
@@MichaelChaconchacon ended up buying 18 awg
@@Jon.Kyle.Art. thanks!
You look like Jordan Reye's Australian cousin. Awesome videos.
One other issue that might arise when you have to shut down in an emergency when powering a pi. If you have to shut down in an emergency...aka crash etc....You will power the pi down improperly and may cause an issue
Hi, thanks for your great videos. I just bought my first 3d printer which is the Ender - 3 pro, and I have been following your videos along to get into this hobby. I am wondering now, if I can use the damper on the pro version as well since the gear on the step motors can't be pulled out. Have you tried installing dampers on the pro version yet?(Sorry, its a little bit off topic)
My version went straight on, but I'm increasingly reading about users in the same situation as you. Hopefully my next Creality printer has this so I can investigate.
Quick suggestion is when your soldering a xt60 have the other end of the plug in do you don't warp the plastic
If you were going to run 2 12v fans that are always on. Just wire them in series and you have no need for buck converters
If the fans are similar enough in current consumption.
Meh if you are using the same make and model that would assume they are closely matched enough
That doesn't apply cleanly to brushless fans, their impedance isn't constant meaning you'll get peaks and drops in the supply voltage. You don't get a clean 12V if you place two identical 12V brushless DC fans in series, even if your multi meter sais so. The multimeter shows average voltage over the terminals. This is also why a 50% duty cycle 24V signal will show as 12V, while it's actually still going 0 to 24V.
More technical discussion here: forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=6310#p35390
@@stefanwilkens You don't need clean 12V to power the fans, burst supply is in order just as long as you don't overheat the motor windings and the MOSFETs. Otherwise the brushless control boards in them are usually fine with 24V. So two fans fighting for bursts of power in series is adequate.
A little secret: Use LM7812 microchip for fans and it is much smaller to fit in control case, cheaper and easier to use
How can i check a xt60 splitter? Already burn One board because a defective splitter 🙁
i started prepping for this. hoping for no "magic smoke"
Thanks for the informative video!! Along these lines I was thinking of adding 2 Noctua fans, one for my hot end and the other for my electronics. With that said instead of using a buck converter, my idea was to use 2 NF-A4x10 FLX 12v fans and run them in series off of the hot end connection. This should drop the voltage down for both fans to 12v and have them both running 24x7, which is what I want vice the electronics fan being tied to the parts cooling fan. Is this a realistic solution, or is there something that I am not considering that will cause me problems down the road?
Did this work for your printer? I am also considering to put 2 40x20mm noctua fans in series
Not sure if anyone mentioned it, by why not just used a resistor in series to drop the voltage on the hotend and mainboard fans? The Notcua 40x10mm fans are drawing around 40 mA at 12 VDC (according to the rating). So, to drop the other 12 VDC, the resistance would be equal to 12 volts/.04 Amps, so 300 Ohms (substitute the current rating for your fan to find the resistance value). Also make sure it's rated for the right power, as that would equate to about .5 Watts, so should use one rated at or above 1 Watt. Something like this:
a.co/d/0t4oFFW
There have been people reporting frying the 12v fan if supplied with 24v at 50% pwm, so I would not really advise it. There are also some cheap 24V 5015 fans running on ball bearing from GDSTIME on aliexpress, and be sure they are ball bearing as the normal sleeve bearing will wear out very quickly (one I had lasted 2 prints then the sleeve bearing became noisy)
Agreed. Please see the pinned post.
Have to say myself included, would the buck converter work in this case too?
@@simecekjann if you need a fixed speed fan, the buck converter is fine
Hi there hope you can help i have changed my hot end fan to the same one in your video and used the same buck converter and that side of it is now working great. but now my part cooling fan seems to make this strange buzzing pulsing sound that changes with speed but almost goes when at full speed are you able to help with this.
I have a Ender 3v2 with a 4.2.7 Silent board
Cheers in advance
No, 50% of pwm does not mean it is 50% of voltage. it's 50% of the time, but full voltage at that time. You'll fry your fan eventually if you think you can run 12v fan on a 24v 50% pwm... it's true that is what the buck converter does, but he uses a capacitor to keep the voltage at 50% and some feedback loop to correct it based on actual load....
To control my 40mm board fan on my A8 I just spliced the negative side with a trimpot before going to the supply. Although it's 12V with a 12V fan and I'm only stepping it down a little bit as it was a bit noisy on full power. I guess you needed the buck because 24V down to 12V is a bit of a heat dissipation issue?
I did wire up the cooling fan exactly like you showed, a Noctua 12V fan, and the buck converter is putting out 12V when the fan is set to 100% (255). However on lower speeds the voltage is too low then and the fan won’t start spinning. Even on 20% the voltage isn’t enough. How did you get around that?
used your marlin bl touch vid followed every stept , yours no errors mine errors and can't figure how to start over
I tried using the motherboard connectors on the ender 3 to power my pi3 b+, while it did supply power it only got so far into the boot up process before cutting out and then it would keep on trying and failing in a loop. I just dont think there is enough juice to power it.
thanks for putting this out there. I was about to test it with my pi3 B+ too but the minimum power requirements do seem rather high from stock and Michael shows a pi2 B in the video. I may try this with my 3B (not +) as I have many power draw options disabled there such as the HDMI, bluetooth, and I even have a USB cord that I have removed the power lead from so that it can transmit data to the onboard SD card from octoprint but it does not actually provide any power to the ender 3's main board.
I noticed that the mainboard fan also isn't exactly quiet plus the hole in the lid is smaller than the fan. So I'm gonna print a new lid and put another noctua fan in as mainboard fan. I also want this fan to be powered off the hotend cooling fan so it will run all the time (standard fan connector only runs if part cooling fan is running). Can anyone tell me if I could just hook it up to the buck converter in addition to the hotend cooling fan? If so how would one best split the female dupont connector?
Hey Michael,
I am not sure if I got this right: At 5:17 min you talk about avoiding buck converters completely. Does this mean I can simply power my Raspberry pi 3 from the Ender 3 mainboard with a simple 2 wire connector (using your wire diagram at 5:31 min)? That would be absolutely awesome! Or did I get this wrong?
Greetings from Germany
Michael
Why everyone cuts the cable? Do it like me an just add an additional cable to the powersupply.. there are planty of terminals where you can install a seperate power line to your buck converter, instead of destroying the original cable !
Watch it again. I didn't cut the power cable.
Best vid yet!
why'd you set the buck converter to just under 5v instead of exactly 5v?
Should you not use one of the other available power sources on the supple rather than splitting the boards supply
Apologies if this has been asked before, but isn't it also an option to take a ring crimped lead from the spare terminals on the power supply and takign that to the buck convertors. This is instead of modifying the original XT60 connector? less joints, and simpler connections...
Great video, but creality printers now have a shared 24v+ to the heater and both fans. They control the pwm using the 0V- line that runs back to the board on each component. If you know what could be done about that I'd be highly interested!
The wire aug you are showing is way overkill for the current you are using. You can use substantiallu smaller aug wire. I prefer the wires from cat 6 cable but cat5e should be fine. I also prefer a solid conductor but typically can only get that if you have a source for bulk cable. The stranded works fine.
He knows. He says as much in the video, doofus.
A good idea for a vid would be to try neopixel add on for temp related colours shown in marlin. I have neopixel stick added under the chin at front of the bullseye. It’s great as white but temp indication and ready indication etc would be cool. I can’t find anywhere aside from a repo that says it needs separate temp sensor and that it can’t be done from the Creality board?? Say it ain’t so! Lol.
Thank you, it's a very valuable information you provided here. I tried to install the power supply for the RPi from the PSU of my Ender 3 but run into problems with the buck converter (LM 2596). After wiring, the input side shows a voltage of 24V. On the output side, measured on the connector points (no wiring there yet) it shows always 0V whatever the position of the 'adjustment' screw is. I turned it clockwise and also counter-clockwise. The multi-meter always shows a voltage of zero. I tried 2 different LM2597, in both cases the output is zero. Any advise what I may do wrong? Thanks
This was great. could you do a video on converting the Anycubic Viper to Marlin 2.0 please? I haven't been able to find one. Or convert it to the BTT SKR1.4 Turbo as I have a spare board. Thanks any keep up the good work!
I run my Pi off a 20k USB backup battery pack. I was afraid that auto resume would fail off pi was reset. Is that not the case?
why not use the free connections on the psu tho?
One thought, what do you think about (if possible) hacking a micro usb cable so it connects to the buck in the other end instead of having a regular USB connector there? (Thus using it to feed the Pi normally)
Think I found the answer. This should do the trick, just attack the GND and +5v cables and connect to the buck.
www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Connector-MicroUSB-Replacement-Raspberry/dp/B07BMLMZ72/
Would you still recommend using the Noctua fans compared to sound fans where you would not need buck converters?
FWIW, the 5V out on the SKR Mini e3 1.2 provided my Pi an undervoltage. Haven't checked how far under but needless to say, it's not sufficient.
have the LM2596 gotten super hot? i read on the manufacturers page that they require a heat sink for anything over 2 amps.
Do you have a link to the wire you’re using?
Are you using Dupont connectors for speed and convenience in case you want to swap the fans out or something? Why do you go for Dupont connects instead of just soldering together? Thanks in advance
Powering a Linux based system such as Octoprint up and down without doing a proper shutdown may corrupt the file system. If people are going to be wiring up the Pi like this then they probably should be issuing a shutdown command on the interface before turningoff the printer just to be on the safeside.
True. But how long do you wait after shutdown? I guess on the pi there are lights indicating that but I plan to use a rpi zero, that I will place inside the ender 3 board case. A first idea would be to use a ups+ battery. Maybe I can tell the pi somehow to issue shutdown command, if it looses "normal" power input. What do you think about that?
OR you could just wing it, i mean chances are, it'll take a thousand tries or more to shoot down the filesystem, so keep a backup and when it happens, just copy it over?
While you are absolutely correct concerning performing a proper linux shutdown, I've simply cut power to shutdown my pi's literally hundreds of times across four different printers over the course of a year and have never had an issue. If it wasn't so easy to re-image them, I'd probably take more care with issuing a proper shutdown each time.
@@trohn_javolta8485 Actually the process is very quick so rather than complicate things simply issue the shutdown command from the Octoprint interface, wait 10 seconds and turn off the printer. That should be plenty of time!
Totally agree, had some friends where their RPi Octprint sd crashed and had to be restored. On the other hand this wiring would be great for an ESP3D solution which is much less sensitive to been power off hard.
Awesome video can you please help install noctua fans for resin 3d printers? I have phrozen mighty 4k, 8k, mini 8k.
Looks like there’s no such thing as a “parallel XT60 adapter”. It’s literally just regular connectors wired together, so you might as well just get a 10 pack of male/female pairs for cheaper and do it yourself.
I see from many reviews that a lot of these XT60 adapters are very cheaply made. Is it simply recommended to make your own? A lot of them say "no wires" and yet they have the crappiest solder job ever. But I guess adding a wire to solder them good would have some other kind of impact?
Complete beginner here, have spent about 5 hours struggling to connect the wires on the buck converter, so bear with me. Nor am i familiar with the raspberry pi or the conenctors on the ender 3. First question, is the wiring and end connector the end the same on the buck converter on both ends? So 2 xt60 ports? Also, where do I pluf it in, which part on the ender 3 pro? and to what? ngithmare at the moment. great video, unfortunately not enough clear video on this. great video btw
Do in need my raspberry pi alread yconneccted, is there a separate video for this? I knid of just need the buck ocnverter for the fans? what do i do?
my raspberry pi inst connected so can i just conect to motherboard?
how do i check if my PSU is Capable of powering Motherboard AND Raspberry pi at once?
is there a Video or something that explain that topic further?
Nice work, My only comment is I that I thought, and i could be wrong about this, I'm not a PI pro or electronic wiz. The gpios were mainly for out going power . If you plug input power in there you skip the PIs voltage regulator and spike protection . I see you slightly under volted it anyway so should be fine, but is some people bucks might not be variable and may over volt.
Happy to be corrected on this. This could be for the older RPis?
The 5V pins on the PiHat header are not GPIO pins, they are power pins. When you're powering the Pi through the hat header rather than the dedicated USB power input, you're circumventing a fuse and a Zero Volt Diode, which is actually a MOSFET circuit that passes current one way, but with less voltage drop than a simple diode junction.
The ZVD is needed for specification compliance reasons, because if someone were to plug a Pi into a USB hub, a computer, etc, and a Pi also had another power source connected to it via the PiHat header, backfeeding of power into USB host is strictly prohibited. But if you're plugging your own power supply into the Pi, you don't need to protect it with a ZVD. Besides, they sometimes had the ZVD, sometimes they didn't, seems they treat it as optional.
The fuse is also optional, as these little step down converters simply won't deliver all much more current than 3A to begin with.
You still get a spike crowbar regardless which way you connect that triggers at somewhere around 6V. You can set 5.5V on your regulator and i'm fairly certain that everything will be fine. Keeping the fuse would be ideal, as if the voltage rises above 6V, the fuse can prevent the damage to the crowbar. But eh, a Pi is not such a loss.
someone below asked about soldering the converter from the power supply into a custom USB header to plug into the Pi instead of using the GPIO. wouldn't that be the best of both worlds (having the added protection, and also not relying on a separate power supply)? @@SianaGearz
@@Cidriel nothing speaks against chopping apart a USB cable and soldering the wires to a step-down regulator. And it's fine to use a super cheap shoddy cable too, since you only need a short section of it so its resistance won't matter, and aren't going to keep tugging on it or plugging it in and out, so its strain relief quality won't matter, and data lines aren't connected on the USB socket of the Pi used for power, so you're not gonna fry Pi's processor in the unlikely event that the cable shorts out internally.
@@SianaGearz that's good to hear! thank you for the tip. I have plenty of those short 5" usb cables from various electronics and no use for them so this sounds like a good way to repurpose one and actually put it into service for once.
Better to use HW-613 Dc-Dc Step Down, it's only 20x10x5mm, and has 12 1.2Ah output sufficient for a fan, and so small to put it into the wiring sheath just few cm over the hot end, and don't need to open the mainboard cover.
Hi. What gauge wire did you use?
Can you not just connect a micro usb on the other end?
Would 22 gauge wire be ok for everything in this video?
My buck converter IN sides fuse blew when I turned my printer? What would cause this?
Where to Find the Relay Someone mentioned to me a YYG-2 Relay but wich Voltage?
24, 12 or 5v ?
The PSU is 24 the
Pi is 5v Wich one to use?
I AM LOST XD
5.1v and don't forget to shut it down before you switch of the power