I’ve burned/partially melted, two housings trying to replace my impeller. Make sure the stainless steel cup that mates with the plastic pump housing is properly seated inside the housing. The notch on the stainless steel cup should sit in the smaller “notch” inside of the plastic housing, and not the bigger “notch”. If not properly seated, the cup will spin inside of the plastic housing and the heat from that will damage the plastic and melt the bottom mating surface. Don’t ask how I know, $160 mistake. Ouch… Thank you for the video.
This is a great resource! I am doing my F90 right now. Just wondering if my motor will be the same as the 60 hp you are doing here. Thanks again for the great resource. VERY helpful.
You forgot one very important thing,you didn't grease the 4 skrews holding the housing down.You always put grease on every screw when you work on outboards.I experienced a broken screw some time ago working on a F60,just because the mekanic who had worked on it before never greased the screws,And because the housing is plastic you cant use heat on it.Which is one very common thing to do,especially when working on old engines.Don't forget to grease any screw you put back on.You have a nice day.
Thanks for the video,you are always very willing to explain everything and you definitely make things simply understood.If it is possible I would like to ask a couple of questions.In that case what was the problem? I mean the sympton was probably the high temperature of the engine, but the impeller was in very good condition. So as I understand, the cooling sea water was pumped to the engine properly and actually the gaskets were in need of essential replacement. Are the warned gaskets themselves capable to be an obstable to the cooling of the engine? In my mind, the destroyed gaskets could be a cause of leakage but not an obstacle to water's flow, but maybe there is something I dont know.Finally, if we have the same syptom of engine's high temperature and the impeller is in good condition like this one, what else could we check-overhaul (apart from checking for fishing lines on the propeler shaft)? Thanks in advance for your time and I am sorry if my message was too long.
Is there supposed to be a rubber seal that sits on top of the housing in the little hole where the water is Palm to the engine? I I just had my Yamaha 60 2009 high thrust engine, lower unit serviced and right when I got back on the water I realize that the telltale wasn’t peeing as it should, causing the engine to overheat. I am now conflicted as to what the issue may be from because I don’t believe there is a clog. I believe that something with the water pump isn’t pumping correctly. Any advice would help Thanks.
No you don't. I would assume that as old as this question is you have probably figured that out for yourself by now. Or you got the answer elsewhere. All that being said It would probably be best to change the lower unit oil whenever you do change the impeller as just a matter of servicing all the points of the lower unit. Do them all at the same time that way you know when all of it was done. I've been told that you should change impellers every two years if your boat gets used on a regular basis and every year if used only occasionally...
Great video, but I would definitely prep those surfaces properly before installing the new gaskets...
Great video mate, explained the entire process perfectly. My motor is now fixed, thanks.
I’ve burned/partially melted, two housings trying to replace my impeller. Make sure the stainless steel cup that mates with the plastic pump housing is properly seated inside the housing. The notch on the stainless steel cup should sit in the smaller “notch” inside of the plastic housing, and not the bigger “notch”. If not properly seated, the cup will spin inside of the plastic housing and the heat from that will damage the plastic and melt the bottom mating surface. Don’t ask how I know, $160 mistake. Ouch… Thank you for the video.
This is a great resource! I am doing my F90 right now. Just wondering if my motor will be the same as the 60 hp you are doing here. Thanks again for the great resource. VERY helpful.
thanks for this video, greatings from france.
You forgot one very important thing,you didn't grease the 4 skrews holding the housing down.You always put grease on every screw when you work on outboards.I experienced a broken screw some time ago working on a F60,just because the mekanic who had worked on it before never greased the screws,And because the housing is plastic you cant use heat on it.Which is one very common thing to do,especially when working on old engines.Don't forget to grease any screw you put back on.You have a nice day.
You can greased you own bolts....and don't &%$#@...thanks!!!
Thanks for the video,you are always very willing to explain everything and you definitely make things simply understood.If it is possible I would like to ask a couple of questions.In that case what was the problem? I mean the sympton was probably the high temperature of the engine, but the impeller was in very good condition. So as I understand, the cooling sea water was pumped to the engine properly and actually the gaskets were in need of essential replacement. Are the warned gaskets themselves capable to be an obstable to the cooling of the engine? In my mind, the destroyed gaskets could be a cause of leakage but not an obstacle to water's flow, but maybe there is something I dont know.Finally, if we have the same syptom of engine's high temperature and the impeller is in good condition like this one, what else could we check-overhaul (apart from checking for fishing lines on the propeler shaft)? Thanks in advance for your time and I am sorry if my message was too long.
Where does the O-ring go?
Look like on the bottom
Is there supposed to be a rubber seal that sits on top of the housing in the little hole where the water is Palm to the engine? I I just had my Yamaha 60 2009 high thrust engine, lower unit serviced and right when I got back on the water I realize that the telltale wasn’t peeing as it should, causing the engine to overheat. I am now conflicted as to what the issue may be from because I don’t believe there is a clog. I believe that something with the water pump isn’t pumping correctly. Any advice would help Thanks.
Do you need to drain the gear case oil before dropping the lower unit?
No you don't. I would assume that as old as this question is you have probably figured that out for yourself by now. Or you got the answer elsewhere. All that being said It would probably be best to change the lower unit oil whenever you do change the impeller as just a matter of servicing all the points of the lower unit. Do them all at the same time that way you know when all of it was done. I've been told that you should change impellers every two years if your boat gets used on a regular basis and every year if used only occasionally...
do you know what size is the yamaha f40 propeller nut?
Show me how to take the foot off
marc poure fourmasyo
Left a lot out...