I bought my insulation and just kept it in a dry room for a couple of months. I dont have a moisture tester and getting a company to tell you how they store their insulation, is nigh on impossible it would seem. Luck of the draw.
I am a big believer of wherever possible, giving moisture an escape route without opening up for ingress. Sounds obvious but sometimes people seal in moisture when waterproofing and create the problems.
Hi Steve, at the very end of the video, you are filling the thermally broken fixings with what looks like silicone. Is this stop them filling up with dirt/water? I had intended to use foam to fill them.
Yes on that particular roof we were using a liquid roofing system and all the liquid would run down the hole and the roofing system wouldn't work so you have to seal the tops if you're using a liquid system if you're not it's not a problem
PIR foam is closed cell so doesn’t absorb water and PU glue/foam is moisture setting. Even if the boards were damp it is unlikely to have affected the bond. I prefer a mica faced vapour over that alutrix foil
Hi Steve... Thanks for another great video. Just used the altrux self adhesive on our last job, then 120mm insulation and 18mm t&g with edpm... Thanks for recomendation. What adhesive do you find best if not laying a top deck before edpm?
we use a spray glue we get from a company called gemini adhesives also firestone do one it a big cylinder of glue like a small camping gas bottle cost about £250 each new one the lance lasts forever even without cleaning have had mine for several years never cleaned just moved from one bottle to another you get 100s of meters of glue out of it and its so useful for other things even if I didn't do roofing would have one on the van
What about a timber frame wall that i have.....Clay tile hang on the outside, the plyboard is only 11mm then on the inside 100mm celotex ,then 25mm over timber frame then plasterboard ,but surely there still would be moisture on the inside of the ply on a very cold frosty day like on the inside of a flat roof...
Yes, shouldn't have ply. Should be a breathable membrane against the stud wall then tile batten and tiled. That'd be sufficient to ventilate. Other than that you'd need some sort of ventilation top and bottom to create cross flow
Can't imagine trusting glue but it probably better for thermals, slab nails all the way. Glad I keep insulation dry for as long as poss. Borrowed a mates infrared camera once, interesting to look from inside and see cold spots in joists where nails go through.
If you have to lever it up with a shovel then the bond is strong enough. How is it ever going to be subjected to wind uplift if the covering face layer is sound?
Hi i have one of those old fashioned coal house and outside toilet builds it has a large concrete slab as roof, question hows best to insulate it please, from inside or outside as i plan to do a lean too shingle roof
Yes that's what I do now I record the temperature and RH ( relative humidity) on the day we lay it and moister content of the insulation when it was delivered I have only just started to do this so will have dater to publish in a year or so.
Are you turning away deliveries over a certain moisture content Steve? And do you tell the suppliers prior to delivery that you’ll be testing the moisture content so they don’t send you bad batches in the first place?
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Next week I'll publish what went wrong with this roof the full story
As a builder, glues have come a long way but a mechanical fixing lets me sleep at night.
Yes that's exactly my point
I bought my insulation and just kept it in a dry room for a couple of months. I dont have a moisture tester and getting a company to tell you how they store their insulation, is nigh on impossible it would seem. Luck of the draw.
Yes It all problems we could do without but it can be costly if its not don correctly
I am a big believer of wherever possible, giving moisture an escape route without opening up for ingress. Sounds obvious but sometimes people seal in moisture when waterproofing and create the problems.
Hi Steve, at the very end of the video, you are filling the thermally broken fixings with what looks like silicone. Is this stop them filling up with dirt/water? I had intended to use foam to fill them.
Yes on that particular roof we were using a liquid roofing system and all the liquid would run down the hole and the roofing system wouldn't work so you have to seal the tops if you're using a liquid system if you're not it's not a problem
Brilliant, cheers.
So the roof didn’t leak through the rubber ?
No
It's heartwarming you care so much about this Steve.
Thanks
PIR foam is closed cell so doesn’t absorb water and PU glue/foam is moisture setting. Even if the boards were damp it is unlikely to have affected the bond. I prefer a mica faced vapour over that alutrix foil
What brand VCL is mica faced ?
@@SteveRoofer bauder
EVA 35 Air & Vapour Control Layer. ?
@@SteveRoofer or ksd which is self adhesive
no its not sorry, duo is the sticky underlay
Hi Steve... Thanks for another great video.
Just used the altrux self adhesive on our last job, then 120mm insulation and 18mm t&g with edpm... Thanks for recomendation.
What adhesive do you find best if not laying a top deck before edpm?
we use a spray glue we get from a company called gemini adhesives also firestone do one it a big cylinder of glue like a small camping gas bottle cost about £250 each new one the lance lasts forever even without cleaning have had mine for several years never cleaned just moved from one bottle to another you get 100s of meters of glue out of it and its so useful for other things even if I didn't do roofing would have one on the van
What about a timber frame wall that i have.....Clay tile hang on the outside, the plyboard is only 11mm then on the inside 100mm celotex ,then 25mm over timber frame then plasterboard ,but surely there still would be moisture on the inside of the ply on a very cold frosty day like on the inside of a flat roof...
Yes, shouldn't have ply. Should be a breathable membrane against the stud wall then tile batten and tiled. That'd be sufficient to ventilate. Other than that you'd need some sort of ventilation top and bottom to create cross flow
Can't imagine trusting glue but it probably better for thermals, slab nails all the way. Glad I keep insulation dry for as long as poss. Borrowed a mates infrared camera once, interesting to look from inside and see cold spots in joists where nails go through.
Yes thats why we use thermally broken fixing and not just nails or screws
Hi Steve
Our roofer uses rolls of lapped 3b as a vapour barrier! What’s you thoughts on using this method?
Thanks
Don't know what 3b is Lapped is not sealed and air tight and airtightness is more important that the material used
If you have to lever it up with a shovel then the bond is strong enough. How is it ever going to be subjected to wind uplift if the covering face layer is sound?
As you could hear it did sound like it was down quite well but more glue would not have gone a miss
Thing is, you're levering it of with a shovel...... come on.
Yes but one of the sheets comes up quite easily, however I have to say it pretty good
Just how you'd remove a traditional felt roof.
sorry don't understand
Can anyone make a recommendation an adhesive in the USA?
Sorry I don't know much about the US market so cant help
Hi i have one of those old fashioned coal house and outside toilet builds it has a large concrete slab as roof, question hows best to insulate it please, from inside or outside as i plan to do a lean too shingle roof
If you do it from the outside you have to glue the insuastion down you also have to extend it around the outside edges to stop thermal bridging
@@SteveRoofer thanks can i still put some on inside say a vapour barrier and 25mm celotex
Hi Steve, So is it as simple as just running a moisture metre over the insulation or is there a better way?
Yes that's what I do now I record the temperature and RH ( relative humidity) on the day we lay it and moister content of the insulation when it was delivered I have only just started to do this so will have dater to publish in a year or so.
Are you turning away deliveries over a certain moisture content Steve? And do you tell the suppliers prior to delivery that you’ll be testing the moisture content so they don’t send you bad batches in the first place?
@@TheBigSugs I'm getting it from a supplier that I know stores it correctly I can drive into there warehouse any time and test it there and on the job
NOOICE!
Thanks
Hi Steve
Quick question you mention thermal break fixings can you give an example please,
Thanks
Mark
THis page on my website has some photos of them londonflatroofing.co.uk/blogs/flat-roof-insulation-fixings/
Why doesn't the insulation manufacturers make it closed cell and not open then it would be more fool safe?
It is closed cell however the moisture gets between the bond of the little cells
Hi Steve, some great content. Slightly off topic, would like your thoughts on multifoil insulation for warm or cold flat roof constructions.
I like it in pitched roofs haven't used it in cold roofs so cant comment
@@SteveRoofer...was hoping you'd do a video on it.
Who made the title, Yoda?