Muffler mod Echo CS-490 chainsaw
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- And this video I do the muffler mod and also show How I remove the limiter caps on the high and low speed settings on the carburetor. Do this at your own risk. Adjusting the saw too lean can cause engine damage.
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Use a tachometer to set the low and high. Yes some folks do it by ear but its still not set correctly its always to rich or to lean. Usually to rich and it burns thru fuel faster and often harder to start.
wonder what RPM it should rev to?
Just purchased the Echo 501P, had difficult time deciding between the 490 as the 501 was about 100 bucks more! Decided not to try & mod the 490 to get the extra 20% more to equal the 501. Not sure I made the best decision but sofar the 501 has been great.
I have the 590 also. that thing is a beast! Run's so strong I didn't even have to do the mod
I'm pretty sure there the same cc saw one has an aluminum handle 🤔
Gonna need some more echo videos. I just bought the shindaiwa 491s for a smaller saw. I've only got big stuff. I haven't ran it yet, looking forward to it.
I have three Echo saws. if I do any work to them I'll be sure to put them on UA-cam
You can also just use a skeew slightly bigger than what you used and just by hand skrew them in on the high, then the low, and then grab with a pliers and pull the metal srmurrounding out. It will push it out as younskrew the skrews in.
@Trey Brayden yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
"Screw."
The muffler screen is designed as a (spark arrestor)
Yes you are correct. Once I opened the hole up so the exhaust could breathe more I definitely wanted to make sure that scream was in place so nothing could get down inside the exhaust hole. Some years ago I had a buddy drop off his Stihl chainsaw because it would start but then sputter out. After looking at it I found that the spark arrestor screen was full of carbon. I pulled it out to clean it. it only had a few tiny small holes that I could see light through. I told him that he may have been running the saw a bit too rich for that to happen. Once I cleaned the screen and reinstalled it the saw ran perfectly again.
I bought a 049 this week and have used it twice on Hickory and white oak, some 24 inches in diameter. Likes it cuts great, has unbelievable fuel sipping. Don't like the filler caps that are sloped, making it harder to fill than my old Stihl 028 that just bit the dust. Like the switch vs. the Stihl multifunction mess that I would hit and turn the saw off a couple of times each use. If I try to push it into the wood it will stall, it is better to let it eat at its own pace. Overall a good saw for the fire wood cutter. Very light and not going to wear this 200 lb 50 year old.
I want to set mine by rpm, not by sound... What is the target rpm at wot after the muffler mod? My owner's manual says idle is at 2600-3600, with clutch engaged is 3600-4200 and wot at 11000 to 12500 rpm...does this still apply after the mod???
Actually don't know if the mod would change the RPM for wide open throttle or not
I have the CS-490 and a cs-330t... my question to you is are you happy with the 490 now that you have done the mod and richened it up on high side? I'm going to do it to my saws this week unless you were not happy with the end.
I haven't had a chance to cut with that sense the mod. But now that the cold weather is here I will be using it soon to cut wood for the wood burning stove.
@@mech4061 well I went ahead and did the mods.. like you though i havent gotten to use it besides cranking it up and richening just a touch by sound and trigger.. its snappier though!
@@bryanroberts that's awesome! Hopefully it'll have a little more power for you
so H screw clockwise is leaner counter is richer ??
Clockwise is leaner
@@mech4061 if i just did muffler mod out of box new should i turn it lean or richer ? thanks
@@demolaj1 it will have a bit less back pressure so turn the H screw counterclockwise a quarter turn to half turn. By having less back pressure it will lean the mixture slightly. It's really best to warm the engine then hold it at wide open throttle then turn the the mixture screw counterclockwise until you hear the engine start to load up a little which means running too rich then I'll turn it back clockwise until I hear the RPMs come up, this is when it begin to lean out but you don't want to go too far. if it runs too lean it can cause engine damage.
Hey hey hey hold on there bud.....how them drills treatin ya???
The drills are holding up well. I really love my Milwaukee 1400 foot pound 1/2 inch Drive Impact. It's a total Beast! I use it regularly and it hasn't let me down.
@@mech4061 I've got an old Milwaukee drill. Maybe 5 years old. Its withstood the test of time and abuse. It wasn't always mine. All metal chuck pretty nice. I was thinking about starting Milwaukee's platform because I already have the charger and two 1.5h battery but they dont carry any fuel tool only stuff at the closest home depo to me. Is the regular brushless any good? Or does it make sense to just go ahead and get the fuel?
@@pickleberryyum404 All Milwaukee Fuel tools are brushless, but not all Milwaukee compact Milwaukee tools are made with the torque and drive of Fuel tools. That is the real difference between Milwaukee brushless vs. Fuel. I have only had experience with the Milwaukee Fuel up to this point. in the past I've had Ryobi, Porter-Cable, Skill, Craftsman, DeWalt and Black & Decker. Some of these have been really good that I've used in the past and some not so much. The only gripe that I have about the new fuel line up is they use internal circuitry to prevent them from overheating which can be a bit of a pain if you bear down too hard on the tool. My grinder and drill shuts off immediately when I push too hard. I have to restart them by pulling the trigger again. I know this is a design to prevent damage but it seems to be too sensitive on some of their tools. I have four of their impacts which do not have that feature including my 2053-20 1/4 inch hex drive. My right angle grinder 2780-20 is affected very little by this feature. I can bear down pretty hard while I'm grinding or using a cut off wheel before it shuts off then I have to pull the trigger again. The one that's mostly affected is my small 2485-20 M12 grinder. Actually this one had to be returned for repairs, the circuitry that protects the grinder failed. Once I got it back it ran fine but it does not take much pressure for it to shut off, which as I mentioned can be a bit of a pain when you're trying to clean up some rust or even remove some old gasket material. This particular grinder I believe it's way too sensitive. It only takes a bit of pressure while grinding or polishing then it shuts off.