Always enjoying Louis' vocabulary for the holds, boulders and route setters ;) This time's favourite: the 'garbage' boulder crowned with a bow 🤣. Some Danish, lights in the cave... each trick counts -> Time to be sendy✌️.
Louis you are so funny and nice guy and of course also a very good climber...it would be so good to see you in Sweden and do some climbing with our super route setter and climber Nikken plus his friends....pretty please :)
Hiya, glad this video came out today My gym is in the city where I stay during school time, so I have had no climbing for like a week and its another 10 days until I can D: Thanks for letting me live vicariously
How do we feel about gyms that only use one color of holds for a grade/set? Doesn't it limit the diversity of problems that are possible unless the gym is omega-rich and buys every permutation of holds for every color. I feel like most of the boulders in this video used a similar variety of jugs/crimps rather than more interesting compy-style volumes/slopers/etc.
I agree gyms limit themselves a little when linking colour to grades, but if the holds are purchased with that in mind it shouldn't be an issue. A well stocked gym should have enough holds that they don't run out of possible boulders for the grade before the holds are worn out. Depends on the sets they have, the setters and the design of the wall though.
They sometimes mix things up and set individually graded problems using hold sets from other colours. ie if the red holds are usually used for the v4 circuit, they sometimes set a V6 comp problem with them
Always feel this about monochromatic hold circuits. A string of gyms do this nearby, and I get tired of the same hard circuit being mostly small dual text screw ons and irregular volumes, and the circuit below often features several tweaky feeling crimps and pockets. Bigger limitation is I know the time tables for set crews, and if you are supposed to have red holds v3-5 but this one feels closer to v2 and that one is more v6 you aren’t stripping this and you may not have enough time to tweak for an enjoyable climb experience. Makes for some huge gaps. Colored tags is great.
16:45 Louis campusing a hard technical move is giving me confidence for me compensating shortcomings in technique with strength :D What I'm still unsure about is why he only tried using a heel hook and never just standing against the foothold. Is the left hand hold so far into the cave, that it wouldn't be possible to hold that swing from the pushing foot without a right hook? Anyways great video, vibes, outro and some cool blocks :)
If he to jump from the low foothold in the cave, it would be jumping into a human flag move since both handholds are vertically in line with each other (he will not be able to stay on the low foothold as there is too much momentum). This is significantly harder than the campus move he opted for
@@tommeyer3871Hooking allows him to use his feet to pull himself up, standing on it will push him away from the wall. Generally speaking, when the foothold is higher than your hips, or if you are trying to pull yourself into the wall, you want to hook it rather than stand on it. His body needs to be much higher up before standing on it becomes useful
@@dominiclee1643 hmm interesting, I figured since he wants to go left (from camera perspective) and the foothold is pointed left and up he might be able to push it to go towards the direction he needs to go. I see what you mean, his center of mass is well below the foodhold and standing on/against it would put him in a scrunched position where it would be hard to make use of it
I feel validated by knowing even seasoned veterans sometimes do the *Omnigrip* method when raw finger strength just doesn't do. Which is always the case with me.
@@liamwilson7403 around the second or third boulder, Louis finds a grip he mistook as something he could use in a more traditional way, and after falling off he made the call to just use his entire hand for the grip, which he called the Omnigrip. :P
My gym just set a super hard boulder that uses a pocket like that where you want to pull in the same bad direction. One idea I had that actually makes it less horrible is to use it as a mono which is actually very comfortable but of course a lot harder haha
Watching this, I found the climbs all looked a bit samey? General theme was pull hard on crap holds. Don't mean to be too down, but I did find it bit dull just in terms of entertainment value. Look forward to your other videos!
Louis is one of the most fun climbers to watch. what good vibes
Goddamn is he strong. The technique is impeccable, but it’s backed up by mad fortitude. As always, I learned a lot watching. Nice!
Always enjoying Louis' vocabulary for the holds, boulders and route setters ;) This time's favourite: the 'garbage' boulder crowned with a bow 🤣. Some Danish, lights in the cave... each trick counts -> Time to be sendy✌️.
Danish? Where? I can't believe I missed that
@@anelivb 19:00-19:30 😉
@@kavali6320 Thanks!
You make me believe i can do some of the climbs you can. Your technique is phenomenal
Louis you are so funny and nice guy and of course also a very good climber...it would be so good to see you in Sweden and do some climbing with our super route setter and climber Nikken plus his friends....pretty please :)
Laughed a bunch, more vids like this plz! Merry Christmas!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Louis, could you make a video or short about the Mantras? I’ve been looking into a pair and I am curious about the lack of edges. Thanks!
Hiya, glad this video came out today
My gym is in the city where I stay during school time, so I have had no climbing for like a week and its another 10 days until I can D:
Thanks for letting me live vicariously
I am glad this masterpiece is in 4k!
How do we feel about gyms that only use one color of holds for a grade/set? Doesn't it limit the diversity of problems that are possible unless the gym is omega-rich and buys every permutation of holds for every color. I feel like most of the boulders in this video used a similar variety of jugs/crimps rather than more interesting compy-style volumes/slopers/etc.
I agree gyms limit themselves a little when linking colour to grades, but if the holds are purchased with that in mind it shouldn't be an issue. A well stocked gym should have enough holds that they don't run out of possible boulders for the grade before the holds are worn out. Depends on the sets they have, the setters and the design of the wall though.
They sometimes mix things up and set individually graded problems using hold sets from other colours. ie if the red holds are usually used for the v4 circuit, they sometimes set a V6 comp problem with them
Always feel this about monochromatic hold circuits. A string of gyms do this nearby, and I get tired of the same hard circuit being mostly small dual text screw ons and irregular volumes, and the circuit below often features several tweaky feeling crimps and pockets.
Bigger limitation is I know the time tables for set crews, and if you are supposed to have red holds v3-5 but this one feels closer to v2 and that one is more v6 you aren’t stripping this and you may not have enough time to tweak for an enjoyable climb experience. Makes for some huge gaps.
Colored tags is great.
I much prefer a single colour to a grade, makes it really easy to walk around and see what I can do and might like, and to track my progress
Don’t really care much. As long as the routes are fun and interesting.
16:45 Louis campusing a hard technical move is giving me confidence for me compensating shortcomings in technique with strength :D
What I'm still unsure about is why he only tried using a heel hook and never just standing against the foothold. Is the left hand hold so far into the cave, that it wouldn't be possible to hold that swing from the pushing foot without a right hook?
Anyways great video, vibes, outro and some cool blocks :)
If he to jump from the low foothold in the cave, it would be jumping into a human flag move since both handholds are vertically in line with each other (he will not be able to stay on the low foothold as there is too much momentum). This is significantly harder than the campus move he opted for
@@dominiclee1643 I mean the same foothold he was trying to hook, but by standing on it instead of hooking it
@@tommeyer3871Hooking allows him to use his feet to pull himself up, standing on it will push him away from the wall.
Generally speaking, when the foothold is higher than your hips, or if you are trying to pull yourself into the wall, you want to hook it rather than stand on it.
His body needs to be much higher up before standing on it becomes useful
@@dominiclee1643 hmm interesting, I figured since he wants to go left (from camera perspective) and the foothold is pointed left and up he might be able to push it to go towards the direction he needs to go.
I see what you mean, his center of mass is well below the foodhold and standing on/against it would put him in a scrunched position where it would be hard to make use of it
Great stuff!
Thank you!
Very uplifting video, thank you so much!
I feel validated by knowing even seasoned veterans sometimes do the *Omnigrip* method when raw finger strength just doesn't do. Which is always the case with me.
whats the omnigrip method?
@@liamwilson7403 around the second or third boulder, Louis finds a grip he mistook as something he could use in a more traditional way, and after falling off he made the call to just use his entire hand for the grip, which he called the Omnigrip. :P
@@liamwilson7403 7:56 I was about to ask too, but just as I was starting to comment he said it, so here‘s the timestamp to the climb for you
louis didn’t fully down climb on the one climb in the big overhang. need our push-ups!
How do you like the mantras compte to some other soft shoes for modern bouldering?
they just fit personally better and are comfy for me! We would always say try a range to see whats best for you
What a beast
Thank you!!
Should come to Manchester depot and smash out the oranges!
5:25 we all love a bit of smashing and hugging, but tbh I’m more interested in your climbing
Anyone else’s feet get really sweaty when watching Louis climbing videos? 😬
Is this inspired by Stefano Ghisolfis "100 boulders in 1 hour" video? I love this stuff!
Coming for Stefano I see!
Did he do a similar video? We have been doing these videos for a long whiiile
My gym just set a super hard boulder that uses a pocket like that where you want to pull in the same bad direction.
One idea I had that actually makes it less horrible is to use it as a mono which is actually very comfortable but of course a lot harder haha
Was thinking could he mono it so thanks for validating me haha
How much weight is that at the start of the video?!
I think around 75kgs
For my fellow freedom unit users, that's around 165lbs
Anyone know what company makes the holds in that circuit?
The logo is 4 small circles in a square. I’m 99% it’a Lapis holds
@@ElliotOxley11 Thanks!
Sweeet
Watching this, I found the climbs all looked a bit samey? General theme was pull hard on crap holds. Don't mean to be too down, but I did find it bit dull just in terms of entertainment value. Look forward to your other videos!
what kind of garbage is that at 11:00?
nice to see you fail a bit on hard moves since everytime you look like a mutant but you are human after all :D :D
The users of that gym deserve better routesetting.
The music makes the climbing unwatchable for me
Sorry you feel that way!