Making a Cozy Victorian Teagown -- Adding Sleeves, Collar, and Soooo Many Buttons
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- Опубліковано 12 січ 2025
- We're continuing on in my attempt to reproduce my antique 1890's teagown. This week, I'm working on making it look a bit more 1890's. In other words, it's time for giant sleeves! I'll be adding the sleeves, neckline detail, collar, and 32 buttons and buttonholes in this video. I hope you enjoy!
Part One of this project: • Making an 1890's Teago...
Examining My Antique 1890's Teagown: • Examining an 1890s Tea...
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![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I came to the realization awhile ago that Joann is a craft store, no longer a fabric store. In the sewing section of my store, it's overwhelmingly devoted to upholstery-related items and quilting. I miss Minnesota Fabrics!
Etsy is hands-down the best place for trim, buttons, and even fabric. I have found so much great stuff on Etsy.
Yeah, I've found good things there, too, but it only works if you're planning in advance!
I am used to massive sleeves -- I am a product of the 80s -- but I was glad I was sitting down when you said 61 inches needed to be pleated down into the armscye. It doesn't seem like a tremendous thing when it's all done, but to hear the number and to see the pattern -- ! I have, most likely, seen bigger, but I never measured them. All I can think of now is the ultimate big sleeve pattern. "The dress pattern is super simple -- just the front and back bodice and the skirt. You will need to cut the skirt out three times -- one for the skirt and the other two will be used for the sleeves." I don't know, we might be crazy. Like the people who cut big pieces of fabric into little pieces of fabric and sew them back into big pieces of fabric, but the opposite. We take big pieces of fabric and fold it down to fit into little loops of fabric -- a little loop of an armscye, a little loop of a cuff, a little loop of a waistband. This is looking so lovely! Can't wait.
Oh how I feel your button pain 😥 I often sit and lament about why I didn't keep the huge cookie tin full of buttons that sat in the stairwell of my Dad's house. There were buttons in there from my grandmother's house that I'm sure she pulled off things since the depression
I have so many buttons in my stash, too, but not 32 of any one type!
It is so sad that all that stuff goes to landfill because it is too hard to reuse/ recycle
I’m 73 and I still have my mum’s button tin (an old national dry milk tin , baby dried milk) I used to play with them when I was young, she used to re-use them on knitted cardigans, and re-use the wool as well.
I need those sleeves for my regular clothing. It would hide my arm flab. 😁
Really neat to see - I thought these kind of sleeves always required the arm donut support things. Looks great :)
Those were actually pretty uncommon in the 1890s. Occasionally some sleeves would have wire supports, but I think just a puffer of horsehair or crinoline was the most common (and I didn't want that in these).
Sometimes the leg of mutton sleeves had a short under sleeve that was straight and only went to the elbow, and was stitched to lining, to stabilise the puffiness of the leg of mutton volume. Did the original garment have anything like that I wonder?
I can't recall which one it is bernadette or Morgan Donner , that did a vid on buttons. I know Morgan did several vids on how to make your own trim and how to make braided cord. There is also one other lady I follow who teaches embroidery and Morgan did a vid on making your own lace. Lots can be learner when we all team up together to learn from eachother. Much love for the stuff you all have taught me. 💖
Couldnt wait until later, thumbnail is gorgeous
I've given up on buttons as well. I found a jar of maybe... 50-70 1/2" shank buttons at an antique store for $1 and now I'm modeling new button facings out of clay, going to make a mold with silicone, and make new buttons with resin. I already have the resin and need it for other things anyway so this is likely the cheaper option. They'll be larger than normal buttons but that should be fine. I'm making it for a cosplay anyway.
Your tea gown is looking really lovely well done beautifully made I am looking forward to seeing you fully dressed in the tea gown
Not sure if its helpful at all, but sometimes quilters shops have a unique array of buttons to choose from, no trimming to speak of, but they do carry buttons. Sometimes you can find wood and horn as well as plastic and metal. Its worth popping into if there are any around you and sometimes you can find some really good deals of fabric too. I got 12.5 yards of a medium weight linen for a bargain once.
Hmm, good to know!
Ahhh! JoAnn's is often so, so frustrating!! I just got some buttons from Britax fabrics that I'm really liking and they had a great online selection. Came in less than a week too which was nice!
This dress came out so lovely and it has been great to watch it come together!
Also, your cat makes my day every time I see her and I am so glad you don't edit her out :)
I could never edit out Dora! (You'll especially love her in part three). And thank you!
Those sleeves are GORGEOUS 😍
Joann's seems to cater more to the quilter and the modern special occasion apparel. So little historic usable stuff. Hobby Lobby sometimes has some cool "findings", but both buy so much stuff from Chinese textiles, so lots of plastic in everything. We used to have so many fabric stores in my area for a while, but now the big box 2 and Walmart are just about all that's available locally. I shop my local thrift stores a lot and get lucky to find some things from de-stashing folks. My online sources are my best though more expensive sources. SO far this ensemble has been very interesting build. On the collar, some tailor's tape at the fold of the collar would help with the fold. A little bit of fabric glue in the back helps keep them together.
Goodness what an interesting construction- watching it I was screaming why not cut a shaped yoke and trap the Watteau pleats under the yoke. It almost looks as though the pleats were added as an afterthought- so interesting. Stunning presentation as always.
Nope, definitely not an afterthought. They're fully part of the back pieces of the dress.
My entire wardrobe WILL consist of this dress
The dress looks amazing, I love your solution on the sleeve. The collar looks perfect. I can’t wait to see it finished. You look so beautiful in this dress!! I appreciate how you talk through your thoughts and solutions, thank you so much!
If you have stiff netting, maybe add some in the shoulder to help hold some structure. I think Angela Clayton did this in a video. Not sure which.
Yeah, I've done that before, but I wanted this one to be nice and comfy.
Those sleeves are amazing 🤩🤩🤩 The way they drape shows volume and softness.I think a stiffer sleeve would detract from the look of the gown. Hope your trim comes soon so we can see the finished look. 😊
So great to hear you berate JoAnns. I try to never go there except for thread or something simple. The quality of the fabrics are so less than any serious sewer would ever want to waste there time on. Also Dora is always I high point in your videos. She is a doll. You are great too:-)
This is coming together beautifully. I can hardly wait to see the finished 👗.
I feel your pain on buttons! I have the worst luck at Joann's too. May I suggest deadstock buttons on Etsy? I have had awesome luck with decorative metal buttons and "pearl" vintage buttons. Your dress is looking so cute! Thank you for sharing your project with us.
Etsy is great, but only if I plan in advance to allow for shipping times! And thanks!
This series is Wonderfully Addictive! Fantastic job!!!
It's turning out just gorgeous!
You are so amazing, the dress is coming along so well. Three weeks? I could easily take 4 or 5 weeks without working a day job. I’m enjoying seeing this come together. I watch you while I’m in my sewing room, it’s almost like a virtual sewing bee. Thanks your making COVID a little less lonely.
I believe in u for welt pockets! I loooove sewing pockets haha so maybe thats why. Anyway those sleeves look spectacular :)
Just trying to be helpful for future projects. I didn’t read all the other comments (but if you didn’t realize it already or weren’t told already) if you attach the horsehair the other direction it would fold down neatly and give flare. Its only really foldable/flexible in one direction. It always tries to stay straight in one direction.
Wow it already is looking so good, and those buttons, so many buttons.
Guess you'll be swimming in trimming right now, looking forward to the end result. :}
I just adore this color 😍
Such clean work! I really liked following your thought process through this - making tweaks to fit a garment is something that is still new to me.
I'm here for all sewing and Dora escapades 😉
I enjoy your videos, I have learned a bunch watch you..awesome stuff!
Loving this dress more than I expected!! Can't wait to see the finished product! 😁😍👍
It's looking great!!! I love the big sleeves!
I am loving this project so much!
Oh it's so pretty! I'm feeling the urge to make a pretty tea gown to wear around the house without a corset.
This is absolutely beautiful. I love this video! Wonderful job!
Joann's is also the only remotely garment-oriented fabric store anywhere near me, I feel your pain. (We have all the quilt stores you could want, but I don't want to make everything out of quilting cotton *and* I used to work at one, it was horrible, and quilting stores make me anxious now.)
I absolutely love this shade of blue! Also, so many buttons! I really hope you only have to undo a few to get in and out, otherwise that would take forever!
I only have to undo them down to about hip height, so it's not too terrible. :)
I used to live near Seattle and always loved going to Pacific Fabrics first. I know what you mean tho... it seems the selection of trims and buttons has gone way down. And those lovely little fabric shops seem to be around just a few years before moving on.
Looks beautiful so far!
what about a 1" tulle ruffle between the two sleeve layers at the very top? That would make the sleeve head stand up a bit and the fall would be more like the organdy layer itself.
Beautiful!!!
I am sure you have already found something that works, but you could crochet your own trim. Even a simple chain stitch done in fine cotton thread would sort of mimic the size that you want.
You do so well to be fitting yourself! I always need help at certain points.
You need sleeve hoops. That would keep them floofing.
Love to see your work. Everything comes out so nicely. Wish you used an overhead camera for footage. Would be nice to see you in action
You look like a princess!
These sleeves are gorgeous! The fit looks perfect, I think I should sew me a coat with this type of yoke and sleeves, thank you for all this inspiration and drafting pattern tips, I learn so much with your videos!
Nikki Leam did a video on welt pockets back when Noelle was in Welt pocket hell. That might help.
Love the sleeves! And yikes, 32 buttons. That's a project in and of itself.
It's so great to watch it coming together! Its SO. pretty!
I'm in love with those sleeves!!
It’s all coming together so beautifully!! I really love the colour. Can’t wait to see the finished product!!
Not sure what sort of stores you have nearby but you might want to check out yarn shops for buttons. I have seen some amazing and beautiful buttons at a variety of yarn shops in my life.
Oh wow, I hadn't thought of that. (Tbh, I think I've been in a yarn store once in my life, so I didn't realize they would have buttons.)
I use lightweight iron on interfacing and I dampen the fabric that gets stuffed in...with my finger from a little bowl of water. If the fabric If the fabric is thick I trim, sometimes snip into, the fabric that gets stuffed in. Sometimes I put a little glue into my dampening water.
I actually really like the lighter-blue 3/16" velvet trim that arrived from Amazon first; I kind of hope you go with that option over the navy, though I'm sure either choice will look great in the end result.
You will see soon! ;)
and of course i got an ad for Joann's during your video...
Yeah those ads and coupons that you can rarely use. 🎫
I guess at least they're targeting to the right audience? lol
I was wondering if the weave wasn't hand woven right onto the fabric, maybe? Kinda looks like the kind of weaving I saw Morgan Donner do a while back. Dress is looking great can hardly wait for the next video to see what type of bells and whistles you were able to get!!!
I am a sewing novice, so I don't even know if these questions makes sense.
If you were to remove the sleeve and put two sets of trim in the puffy part (to mirror the two sets of 3 trim bands in the cuff) would that give enough structure to the upper sleeve to keep it from drooping? My second though was to add a fine, but stiff wire under the trim in the upper sleeve to "inflate" the upper sleeves to keep them from drooping.
Again, I'm a new bee, and don't really know if these questions even make sense.
Another thought I had - for future leg of mutton sleeves, not necessarily these - originates from playing Japanese mahjong, studying esoterica, loving history and multiculturalism. (Sorry!)
I don't know how much Asian culture still informed fashion in the 1890s - perhaps not at all - but, I do know that odd numbers are "better luck" in Asian numerology. What if instead of 5 or 6 pleats in each side of the sleeves - what if you had 7 more shallow, closer together pleats, thus providing more lift and structure? Really, 9 is the luckiest number in Japanese numerology, though.
I know I am late, but Noelle from costuming drama uses glue when using those button makers
I vote for a patch pocket . Something one could put a cell phone in.
I managed the welt pocket! That will be coming in the next video. :)
Have you tried Etsy? I first go to Amazon because of the speed delivering, but when that fails I usually find anything I need at Etsy, mostly vintage and unusual!
Unfortunately, I didn't have enough time to allow for things on etsy to get to me.
Shoelace might have worked?
The cat, Dora was it?, probably just wondered who you were talking too, and thought that perhaps you needed someone! 😆
Omg... watching...I’m a spaz..lol
Maybe try to braid your triming like Daisy Victoria shows on her UA-cam channel???
That's an interesting idea, but sounds very time consuming!
I made a mostly historically accurate gown. The top however is shoulder straps, modern-day straps. The heavy weight of the rest of the dress is stretching out the straps to the point it can't be worn. How do I fix that?
Can you remake the straps out of something that won't stretch?
Are these button kits easier than just making stuffed fabric buttons?
I've never tried any other way, tbh!
@@LadyRebeccaFashions then it's an option for your next project
I know this is probably a moot point, but do you not think about making the braids yourself, with yarn? Or do you just prefer ready-made.
Yarn wouldn't have given me the right texture.
Not that it needs it ... but you should make an add sleeve hoops. I searched UA-cam because I wanted to see what they looked like and literally only found one video with nothing more than a quick photo. Again it’s fabulous without but would be super cool to see a video on the subject
Never mind. Just saw your reply to another comment about the same thing.
If you have a Hobby Lobby around, sometimes they have decent buttons. I almost have better luck finding buttons, ribbons and trims at Hobby Lobby. It does suck that most of the sewing stuff I need isn't available in local stores. I hate waiting for things to ship when I'm excited to keep working on my project.
Honestly, I try to avoid Hobby Lobby as much as absolutely possible, since I don't want to support a company like that. I have had to purchase something there once, and I hope to never have to again.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions it's sad that some of these companies with good products and a good selection of products have such terrible ethics. I always forget about that part of Hobby Lobby. I worked at Hobby Lobby in the early 2000's. I only lasted a few months there because it was such a bad working environment and they didn't care about their employees at all.
The horsehair collar interfacing is definitely too heavy and the grain of the hair is going the wrong way (against the fold not parallel with it) and I think that is what's pulling the collar back up. It might be a problem later as the hair is sharp and may poke through the collar and chafe at the neck. Definitely something else, maybe a buckram or modern interfacing would be better. (I've bingewatched a bunch of costuming and I think Nicole Rudolph has a recent video on this specific topic.
💖💖💖💖💖
Sorry to back track but I was watching a vlog from 6 months ago where you talk about a boot strap dress. I could not find where else to talk about it. What is it?
You mean this video? It's on making the Bootstrap dress form: ua-cam.com/video/nd51IpCX0-U/v-deo.html
@@LadyRebeccaFashions That's the one, but is there a vlog that leads up to it? I don't know what a boot strap dress is.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Yes, but what is the one that leads up to it? Covering the pattern acquisition, etc. -- the starting point of the project.
@@ruthkirkparick3535 Try this one, starting about 9 or so mins in. ua-cam.com/video/voynGq6DFfU/v-deo.html
Incredible work and astonishing beauty. But don't you think that your shoulderseams are to wide? The shoulder bulges betwee neck and arm.
Yeah, I think that's what caused the neck issue, and why I had to pin out a bit of the shoulder underneath the collar.
It feels like there was a mistake made on the original. I think yours is more accurate. However, it feels like on the original, the soutash braid should have gone over the pleats.
Welt pockets are scary because of the cut. They are totally do able. Make a bunch. Cut with care! You can do it.
I did it! They weren't nearly as bad as I feared. (They'll be in next week's video.)
❤
Sorry it’s the Halloween bodice.
Which fabric u used
It's a lightweight wool.
I don't know what rat tail is, but I'm thinking it's bad since you said it like a four lettered word. 😂
Rat tail trim is a 1/8" shiny cord made of a rayon/cotton blend. Google images for a visual. Used in crafting, very pretty colors, but definitely not period appropriate.
Yeah, what Juadonna said. It's a very shiny rounded trim, like a cord but not braided or anything. I honestly have no idea what its purpose is, since you can't even tie knots or bows with it (it comes untied way too easily).
I was going to suggest making thread buttons... and then I read something about needing 32 😂
more than half is most, isn't it? Or maybe more than half is much of it, and then more than much is most?
Not Rat's Tail!!!
There is no shame in picking the parts that you like better to be in front. It's not vain, it's logical 😉