The wheel that turns the drum actually show what happens if you turn it in either direction. "Mischen" means mixing aka, "Leeren" means emptying. So you can actually mix cement before pouring it out of the drum. Pretty cool
Siku makes the highest quality die cast toy cars you can find, please feature some more of them on the channel. Growing up in Germany, Siku toys were a huge part of my childhood.
Always preferred SIKU to Matchbox as a child, although they had two drawbacks. 1. They were considerably more expensive. 2. They didn't make those cool american police cruisers like Matchbox did.
I follow 6 other die cast artists on UA-cam and I think yours are the best my reasons? NO MUSIC is #1. You do excellent dictating explaining very well your processes and procedures and other than the tiny advert at the beginning you don't ask for donations, or please "like" or "subscribe" which is very annoying and the main reason I unsubscribe to some. You seem to do these videos because it's a hobby and you enjoy doing it an I enjoy watching same. Regards Tom
I had no interest in hot wheels or matchbox cars before finding your channel but since then, I have been heavily enamored by the amount of work, the process, and the before and after you’ve shown time and time again. I like this channel a bunch so keep up the great work!
Looking at the build quality of that beast, I really don't think the plastic gears have anything to do with obsolescence... Probably they're there to prevent binding or rusting or some other benefit, right?
I am so proud that you appreciate the difficulty curve and skill level required to master aerosol can Art. While yes more mainstream commercially impressive pieces can be made by basic airbrushing on a small scale, the grand history and elaborate massive set pieces that spray paint in graffiti art have achieved, _given the crippling technical limitations of such a primitive instrument by comparison,_ over the years cannot be denied. Thank you for not demeaning spray paint artists, like the majority of Outsiders and _"classically trained"_ airbrush elitists do.
Stuck around to the end and glad I did. Brought back memories of loading my 70B Ford grit spreader -- the one you showed to illustrate the difference between 1/55 and 1/64 -- with salt and happily spreading it, probably all over the kitchen ~50 years ago. :-)
My airbrushes are single action Millers. I bought 2 of them in a kit that featured a compressor powered by a sewing machine motor, 4 different size nozzles (2 fine, 2 medium), 2 glass cups (baby food jars), and a cheap aluminum paint sprayer that I threw away after 1 use. I bought the whole kit for $19 from K-Mart back in 1975. After 45 years - the compressor and airbrushes still work. I have gone through a couple little V-belts which drives the compressor. I used them for scale models for years, and still use them in my guitar repair shop. They result in a professional looking finish job anyone would be proud of.
It's not that it's a spray paint that takes a long time - it's the oil in the enamels. I have a theory on how to mitigate this. You're pretty much screwed with spray cans unless you decant enamels first, but if you let the paint sit - like in the 1/4oz Testers bottles, you'll see the oil separate and float to the top. In theory, you can sop most of that up and thin it back down with mineral spirits. This is what a lot of guys are doing with artists oil paints to get them to dry faster after application. I haven't tested it yet with enamels, but I'm sure it's better than nothing.
Malus Ferox As a person living in a German speaking country, please don’t say he’s ignorant on behalf of us. Everything IS a mishmash of other words. The only person ignorant here is you.
Awesome truck, it's nice to see something different every once in a while. Rattle cans are tricky. I've had pretty good luck but I probably waste a lot of paint. I tend to spray from a couple feet away. It seems to work for me. Maybe you could airbrush the other one and show them side by side? That would look cool.
That Cement Mixer was well built and the end result with the Rattle Can paint looks good, even if you're not comfortable with it. It'd be nice to air-brush the other Cement Mixer so we can compare the two. Thanks for showing this restoration!
Testors enamel is really bad, cheap paint. Not all spray cans are created equal, try Tamiya TS series paints, you'll be a believer. Krylon works well too, and is inexpensive for the amount in the can.
Krylon? Yeah rusto and krylon are friggin terrible companies. The simple fact that they both use proprietary cap fittings completely ruins them for most applications. And their pigment load compared to something like belton or MTN is garbage.
@@nokiot9 in case you fellows haven't realized but the any angle spray Comfort tip logo on the testers cap Replacements is the exact same on Rust-Oleum. They are in both consumer brand subdivisions under RPM International, for whatever that's worth.
PAKTRA PRODUCTIONS I’ve never used testors. It just bothers me they don’t use standard male euro stems like every other major brand of spray paint. They did it to kill off the graffiti culture and it’s a hamstring not a feature.
i used to have a bunch of redlines that my grandpa had. i had a perfect mustang as well as a lot of other perfect (unrestored) cars. i didnt know the value at the time, but i donated them to be auctioned off for charity. even though i regret giving them away, its good to know that they were going to a good cause.
So far as many of your videos that I have watched and in the last few weeks that has been a lot, I have never been disappointed with the results You do amazing work keep it up.
1:15 or so, yeah, the actual scale for 1:64 models has a great deal of float. You do great work on these, and it was a treat to see some different manufacturing.
I love your videos and the communication of your techniques. I think it would be interesting to see the stripping of this new paint in the future and the re application of new colour. 👍
Your videos contain many useful tips and have a really high entertainment value! It's no surprise that you get so many new subscribers (I'm one of them)! Thank you for your videos!
"Like painting a car with a firehose". Great analogy! You did better with a spray can than the vast majority of us could, but I readily agree this paint job leaves a lot to be desired. It must be pretty disappointing after all of that work. I hope you post the repaint as an update in a future video, even if it's only an end cap. Thanks for another great upload. :-)
I have a small advice for painting. Take a srew through the hole from the frame and hold the end of the screw with your tool and then paint. With these way you have no places without colour.
Great tip for cleaning out spray nozzles. One thing though. I use rattle cans to prime up the games workshop minis and I have no problem with runs and detail loss. And I use a printer that's designed for cars. I know they're not the same, but my point is that the detail's a hell of a lot finer than on die cast cars.
It looks great! It is a very well made model and has some neat features to it. I can understand your frustration with spray cans as over the years when I have used them you do have to figure out a technique that works. Flat colors are fine to spray but gloss colors are temperamental when being sprayed from a rattle-can. I will not be giving up my airbrush anytime soon either.
I totally want a salt & pepper cement mixer set now!! LOL It looks pretty good but your right about going back and giving that serious professional look by using your airbrush. I hope you get a chance to show us the results when done. Also I totally feel you on taking breaks from UA-cam every now and then. UA-cam can kill motivation (or seriously distort it) in a hobby if push too hard. :)
I absolutely love this "out of the box" casting and the project in general! Just so you know, the Matchbox #70B is 1:85 scale, not 1:64. Not a big deal or relevant to the project for that matter, but it's true! I was surprised by a couple of things though. One, I don't think a simple cleaning of the wheels did the job, their final condition detracts from the end product, just my opinion. I'm not sure if painting them would have helped, or buffing them with Mother's . . . . but in the end it was the first thing I noticed. Two, the gap in the grille on the left side of the finished product surprised me. I see that it's there in the before pictures but at 5:02 it looks like it's gone, then it's back at 12:02 and looks more pronounced than the before pictures. If this were anyone else, I wouldn't have said a thing about these two issues. But you are generally such a stickler for details and your work is the true "Gold" standard of this hobby. Thanks for all of your work, I have learned a great deal watching your videos. ~TR
Try baking that enamel in an oven at around 100 to 150 degrees for an hour or so. Make sure you support it like you do when you paint. I have found that commercial floor stripper ( wax remover) strips paint on metal and plastic. It's all I use. It's not as fast as the aircraft stripper but it won't burn your hands either. I use it bare handed although I probably absorb it into my body. That's a cool truck. I wish I hand a 3D printer but I probably never will. I also use the floor stripper to clean the plastic. It's also a degreaser. Its wonderful and almost unknown product that so many restorers would love if they would just try it.
Nice job! I have to admit when I see rattle cans in the wings I tend to cringe... But you managed to end with a finish that was better than a lot of airbrush jobs I've seen. I noticed a bit of uneven coverage on the drum but that is much less of a negative than heavy orange peel. The cement mixers in service now compete in showing off creative and eye catching paint schemes and it might fun to see a friendly spray off on these monsters of the highway by you talented workmen. Thanks for sharing!
I hold the spray can pretty far from the object I’m painting. Extra distance helps. Very nice truck! Maybe the gears are plastic cause they have some give to them and cast metal would snap. Germany makes great stuff!
If you take that truck apart again, make sure you put some automotive grease on the cement mixer gears. This will help prevent it from breaking/wearing.
just so u know u rotate the drum the opposite direction to load the drum from the top hopper on a cement truck then to unload u do as u did lolol but it would take a lot of time and u would have to load that tinny hopper a lot of times :-) try a funnel to load the hopper and rotate the drum backwards,,,, hope that helps u in ur play :-)
It came out good however the red seems to be a different shade to me but it still looks good! Maybe the green as well! That being said you are still my favorite restorationist! If that's a word.
The wheel that turns the drum actually show what happens if you turn it in either direction. "Mischen" means mixing aka, "Leeren" means emptying. So you can actually mix cement before pouring it out of the drum. Pretty cool
Yes, I was also amazed by this kind of detail. So you could really use as a scale concrete mixer.
Siku makes the highest quality die cast toy cars you can find, please feature some more of them on the channel. Growing up in Germany, Siku toys were a huge part of my childhood.
Loved how Siku had sets about the car on the base was somehow just cool even as a kid even if half the info didn’t wasn’t understood
Always preferred SIKU to Matchbox as a child, although they had two drawbacks. 1. They were considerably more expensive. 2. They didn't make those cool american police cruisers like Matchbox did.
Same I got a siku fendt and class
They hold the value
“Expecting thousands of little spiders to fall out” 😂😂😂 love it! Made my night. Thanks for another amazing video, Sir.
I follow 6 other die cast artists on UA-cam and I think yours are the best my reasons? NO MUSIC is #1. You do excellent dictating explaining very well your processes and procedures and other than the tiny advert at the beginning you don't ask for donations, or please "like" or "subscribe" which is very annoying and the main reason I unsubscribe to some. You seem to do these videos because it's a hobby and you enjoy doing it an I enjoy watching same. Regards Tom
I had no interest in hot wheels or matchbox cars before finding your channel but since then, I have been heavily enamored by the amount of work, the process, and the before and after you’ve shown time and time again. I like this channel a bunch so keep up the great work!
As is normal for a German company, they have overengineered a vehicle.
How to overengineer toy car
Looking at the build quality of that beast, I really don't think the plastic gears have anything to do with obsolescence...
Probably they're there to prevent binding or rusting or some other benefit, right?
Could also be for self-lubricity i.e. keeping themselves running smoothly by the mechanical properties of the polymer itself.
The plastic seems like it would be more smooth. Buried in there the way they are it seems like it would take a lot to break them?
Yeah, I found that comment strange as well
Yes you can definitely see the paint graduation in the red and green. They would make cool salt and pepper shakers.
I am so proud that you appreciate the difficulty curve and skill level required to master aerosol can Art.
While yes more mainstream commercially impressive pieces can be made by basic airbrushing on a small scale, the grand history and elaborate massive set pieces that spray paint in graffiti art have achieved, _given the crippling technical limitations of such a primitive instrument by comparison,_ over the years cannot be denied.
Thank you for not demeaning spray paint artists, like the majority of Outsiders and _"classically trained"_ airbrush elitists do.
The paint tones work well together and the truck looks great.
Liked the ending very much.
Stuck around to the end and glad I did. Brought back memories of loading my 70B Ford grit spreader -- the one you showed to illustrate the difference between 1/55 and 1/64 -- with salt and happily spreading it, probably all over the kitchen ~50 years ago. :-)
My airbrushes are single action Millers. I bought 2 of them in a kit that featured a compressor powered by a sewing machine motor, 4 different size nozzles (2 fine, 2 medium), 2 glass cups (baby food jars), and a cheap aluminum paint sprayer that I threw away after 1 use. I bought the whole kit for $19 from K-Mart back in 1975. After 45 years - the compressor and airbrushes still work. I have gone through a couple little V-belts which drives the compressor. I used them for scale models for years, and still use them in my guitar repair shop. They result in a professional looking finish job anyone would be proud of.
Great restoration! I wish I could restore cars like this, but watching it is just as good!
a very good financial compromise!
If you are talking about ability, it will delvelope over time.
Whatcha Cookin? I have neither the skill or the budget, lol
I love Siku they were a big part of my childhood and the cars always drove so smooth!
Glad to see a new video on the baremetalHW channel. Good work as usual.
Great video - and don't worry about the digressions - they really are informative and helpful.
It's not that it's a spray paint that takes a long time - it's the oil in the enamels. I have a theory on how to mitigate this. You're pretty much screwed with spray cans unless you decant enamels first, but if you let the paint sit - like in the 1/4oz Testers bottles, you'll see the oil separate and float to the top. In theory, you can sop most of that up and thin it back down with mineral spirits.
This is what a lot of guys are doing with artists oil paints to get them to dry faster after application. I haven't tested it yet with enamels, but I'm sure it's better than nothing.
That is a good point.... I have not played with enamels all that much as I like urethane so much more but I could give that a try.
@@baremetalHW
I've been using PPG automotive urethanes - I love them but you gotta act quick before they set in your airbrush!
I do enjoy seeing other models being restored but I enjoy your redline restorations best. Thanks for making great videos!
*breathes in germanly* LASTKRAFTWAGENFAHRERKABINENLACKIERUNG!
(Truck cab paintjob) :P
That’s a great example of how much of a mess the German language is. Everything’s a mishmash of other words.
Fuck! Your post made me laugh so damned much! Thank you!
@@B_Skizzle Ignorance is strong with this one. God, what an idiot you are.
it's all just began with the broken space button on the keybord
Malus Ferox As a person living in a German speaking country, please don’t say he’s ignorant on behalf of us. Everything IS a mishmash of other words. The only person ignorant here is you.
Love the cement mixer - great to see something a little different!
I think it came out fantastic for being painted with a rattle can. Looks brand new, awesome job.
Awesome truck, it's nice to see something different every once in a while. Rattle cans are tricky. I've had pretty good luck but I probably waste a lot of paint. I tend to spray from a couple feet away. It seems to work for me. Maybe you could airbrush the other one and show them side by side? That would look cool.
I like that idea of putting them side by side. Future update?
Glad you gave yourself a break but I'm also very glad to see you back!
Good idea with the spray can tips
I love watching you bring these beaten up diecast vehicles and fixing them and making them beautiful. You most certainly deserve a sub.
That Cement Mixer was well built and the end result with the Rattle Can paint looks good, even if you're not comfortable with it. It'd be nice to air-brush the other Cement Mixer so we can compare the two. Thanks for showing this restoration!
It's good to have you back, great restoration 👍👍
Very interesting about the cans and nozzles. Great job. Thanks
Testors enamel is really bad, cheap paint. Not all spray cans are created equal, try Tamiya TS series paints, you'll be a believer. Krylon works well too, and is inexpensive for the amount in the can.
Krylon? Yeah rusto and krylon are friggin terrible companies. The simple fact that they both use proprietary cap fittings completely ruins them for most applications. And their pigment load compared to something like belton or MTN is garbage.
I’d rather pay 7$ a can and be able to use any cap I want
@@nokiot9 in case you fellows haven't realized but the any angle spray Comfort tip logo on the testers cap Replacements is the exact same on Rust-Oleum.
They are in both consumer brand subdivisions under RPM International, for whatever that's worth.
PAKTRA PRODUCTIONS I’ve never used testors. It just bothers me they don’t use standard male euro stems like every other major brand of spray paint. They did it to kill off the graffiti culture and it’s a hamstring not a feature.
@@nokiot9 yeah it just screams cheap and disposable if it's not a modular stem. 😑
Excellent , very interesting video , and a nice looking casting .
All the best
i used to have a bunch of redlines that my grandpa had. i had a perfect mustang as well as a lot of other perfect (unrestored) cars. i didnt know the value at the time, but i donated them to be auctioned off for charity. even though i regret giving them away, its good to know that they were going to a good cause.
I absolutely love the end result of this cement truck. It's so beautiful. You always impress and amaze. You really are am artist.
That's a very involved build. Good job mate
That looks great! I know I would have been reluctant to open that gear box. Super production values on your videos as always. Thanks for your efforts.
So far as many of your videos that I have watched and in the last few weeks that has been a lot, I have never been disappointed with the results You do amazing work keep it up.
1:15 or so, yeah, the actual scale for 1:64 models has a great deal of float. You do great work on these, and it was a treat to see some different manufacturing.
Thanks for the paint tip. I'll look for those tips. I'm one of those guts that wants to but ...yeah airbrushes are expensive.
They even got the licence plate right with a "K" for "Köln" as Deutz is a Company from Cologne. :)
I'm living very close to where the Deutz trucks were build in real, atm.
Nice to see something from a different manufacturer. Good job!
I love your videos and the communication of your techniques. I think it would be interesting to see the stripping of this new paint in the future and the re application of new colour. 👍
Freaking awesome little toy and resto. I’m always intrigued by the moving parts on toys and love seeing the mechanisms inside of them
As a german i'd love to see more sikus being rescued. But i love all you Videos no matter what company they are from
Your videos contain many useful tips and have a really high entertainment value! It's no surprise that you get so many new subscribers (I'm one of them)! Thank you for your videos!
Good Job i love Cement trucks
Thanks for taking care of this one!
Wonderful video! I find your vids entertaining, relaxing and informative. Keep up the great work!
@baremetalHW:
13:01 -- Not sure if you noticed, but the front bumper doesn't sit flush with the cab of the truck, and it's really bugging me.
Yes, I noticed it also. I was wondering why that is.
I did too
🤣 so glad I’m not the only one that bothered I guess we all are just particular about our bumpers 😂
It turned out better than expected. I thought I would have liked to see a more modern paint scheme, but the original looks great to me. Nice job.
It looks amazing even with spray cans. Awesome job as always!
nice, the shaker idea is funny but taking it seriously, it would make a kid really happy to use it like that!
Great work looks great, I've been wondering where you have been keep producing video's you were the first restorer I found
"Like painting a car with a firehose". Great analogy! You did better with a spray can than the vast majority of us could, but I readily agree this paint job leaves a lot to be desired. It must be pretty disappointing after all of that work. I hope you post the repaint as an update in a future video, even if it's only an end cap. Thanks for another great upload. :-)
I want to know what makes people thumbs down this video. Super confusing.
Yeeeessss finally ... as i dont have any cars these days i allways hoped you'll have a look at siku 😎😎😎
I like that you tried something new with the spray paint cans.gives an interesting variance.
It looks a lot better than other restoration channels
Great to see you back - don't mind us, take time off when you need too :)
Wish you had a weekly video instead of a monthly. Your restoration videos are like Fridays for many of us
FWIW, the paint job still came out really well! :-) nice job as always. And cool demonstration at the end with the salt hehehe :-)
I love this channel how pure it is!
Who would thumbs down this or any baremetalHW video? Fantastic work...love to hear your explanations.
Your restoration efforts are really nice. I've watched several.
You're to hard on yourself. Your work is exceptional. Much better then anything I could make. I look forward to your next video.
Great video, I'm working on getting into the hobey , you inspired me to do so
You said at the beginning you were going to demonstrate to us it working....?
Haha... yes I waited too. Cheers, good resto.
Just want to let you know I really enjoy your videos. I watch you every night.
Me to #1:24 am😊
Kade Brown I fall asleep watching these videos
1ts 1:50 now. And I'm still replying😊
Its a Good one to choose!!!
Good work you did on the Mixer! I've looked up Magrius Deutz brand before along time ago they became apart of Iveco Trucks.
I have a small advice for painting. Take a srew through the hole from the frame and hold the end of the screw with your tool and then paint. With these way you have no places without colour.
Killer restoration! You did a fantastic job!!!
What a great tip for using the brake cleaner!!!
Glad to see you back. Neat mechanics of this mixer. I hate rattle cans too.
Great tip for cleaning out spray nozzles.
One thing though. I use rattle cans to prime up the games workshop minis and I have no problem with runs and detail loss. And I use a printer that's designed for cars.
I know they're not the same, but my point is that the detail's a hell of a lot finer than on die cast cars.
love Siku- it super nice and I would go so far and say, that 90% of my cars are in amazing shape despite their age
It looks great! It is a very well made model and has some neat features to it. I can understand your frustration with spray cans as over the years when I have used them you do have to figure out a technique that works. Flat colors are fine to spray but gloss colors are temperamental when being sprayed from a rattle-can. I will not be giving up my airbrush anytime soon either.
Awesome work! Ive had ok results from aerosols by getting the can warm and it seems to increase the pressure, improving the atomization of the paint.
I totally want a salt & pepper cement mixer set now!! LOL It looks pretty good but your right about going back and giving that serious professional look by using your airbrush. I hope you get a chance to show us the results when done. Also I totally feel you on taking breaks from UA-cam every now and then. UA-cam can kill motivation (or seriously distort it) in a hobby if push too hard. :)
Great restoration, really like this one, thanks for sharing!....Bill
Very nice restoration. Hope to see this model after you spray paint it
Glad you've decided to redo this one with an airprush. That red is killing my eyes. 😣 And yes. Braeaks are good.
Salt and pepper shakers? 😂 I love it!
*airbrush
😣 Stupid thumbs. 😂
I absolutely love this "out of the box" casting and the project in general!
Just so you know, the Matchbox #70B is 1:85 scale, not 1:64. Not a big deal or relevant to the project for that matter, but it's true!
I was surprised by a couple of things though. One, I don't think a simple cleaning of the wheels did the job, their final condition detracts from the end product, just my opinion. I'm not sure if painting them would have helped, or buffing them with Mother's . . . . but in the end it was the first thing I noticed.
Two, the gap in the grille on the left side of the finished product surprised me. I see that it's there in the before pictures but at 5:02 it looks like it's gone, then it's back at 12:02 and looks more pronounced than the before pictures.
If this were anyone else, I wouldn't have said a thing about these two issues. But you are generally such a stickler for details and your work is the true "Gold" standard of this hobby.
Thanks for all of your work, I have learned a great deal watching your videos.
~TR
That shade of red is beautiful.
Try baking that enamel in an oven at around 100 to 150 degrees for an hour or so. Make sure you support it like you do when you paint. I have found that commercial floor stripper ( wax remover) strips paint on metal and plastic. It's all I use. It's not as fast as the aircraft stripper but it won't burn your hands either. I use it bare handed although I probably absorb it into my body. That's a cool truck. I wish I hand a 3D printer but I probably never will. I also use the floor stripper to clean the plastic. It's also a degreaser. Its wonderful and almost unknown product that so many restorers would love if they would just try it.
I think this diecast looks cool as hell.
I love your videos, you do great work.👍🏻👍🏻😁
Nice job! I have to admit when I see rattle cans in the wings I tend to cringe... But you managed to end with a finish that was better than a lot of airbrush jobs I've seen. I noticed a bit of uneven coverage on the drum but that is much less of a negative than heavy orange peel. The cement mixers in service now compete in showing off creative and eye catching paint schemes and it might fun to see a friendly spray off on these monsters of the highway by you talented workmen. Thanks for sharing!
looks great, the gap at the front on the drivers side is a bit annoying though
Glad someone else noticed to!!! I'm super ocd about gaps like that (like when the lego pieces aren't pushed down all the way😊)
BareMetal is the king but that gap though...
Wow. . . .you have such skills! Thanks for. great video. GREAT JOB. . . .even with a rattle can!
Great to see you back.
I hold the spray can pretty far from the object I’m painting. Extra distance helps. Very nice truck! Maybe the gears are plastic cause they have some give to them and cast metal would snap. Germany makes great stuff!
Amazing restoration turned out Perfect 👍.
welcome back. you were missed. but i do understand needing a break.
The salt and pepper shakers idea actually seems pretty cool in my opinion.
If you take that truck apart again, make sure you put some automotive grease on the cement mixer gears. This will help prevent it from breaking/wearing.
Awesome restoration, well done.
Its an 80's marchirus deutz if you asking what brand it is
just so u know u rotate the drum the opposite direction to load the drum from the top hopper on a cement truck then to unload u do as u did lolol but it would take a lot of time and u would have to load that tinny hopper a lot of times :-) try a funnel to load the hopper and rotate the drum backwards,,,, hope that helps u in ur play :-)
Fantastic restoration looks great to me BM 👍
Cool video like always keep up the great work and you're cool
Glad I waited till the end!!!!!
Is there a way to remedy the gap between the grill and the cab on the left side? Makes an otherwise great restoration look a bit off.
It came out good however the red seems to be a different shade to me but it still looks good! Maybe the green as well! That being said you are still my favorite restorationist! If that's a word.