One of these with the cxa800.1 running off a kisloc loc will beat the pants off most other dual 12 setups off 2-3x the power.. 138.5db for less then $500 that any stock electrical system can run.. I’ve seen people hit these with 3-4K burns no issues and hit 142 pretty easy.. I mean the dual skar sdr package off 2x the power and 2x the box and 2x the woofer surface area only hits the same ranges.. pretty impressive imop.. perfect for a daily driver that you want louder then normal wo giving up much space or having to go big on electrical
Nice video, you should do the same demo with the down fire line, specially the KICKER CVTDF 10 or 12...I wonder how 2 of those 10s sound like on an open trunk?
Here in South Africa our spl team leader makes 151.3 db with 2 10 inch subwoofers and can make a 8 inch push 140 db doing frequency in car though, this figure in the video is nice for a vehicle that size
Some gain overlap and minimum EQ on the highs would be ok probably, but the bass boost is pushing it. With the subwoofer level, it depends how you set it. If you set it at 3/4 so you can raise it a little on quiet songs, or if it’s set at the full/max level. But that would probably make more sense without any - gain overlap. At least that’s my opinion.
The way I’ve always done it is set my levels on the head unit to max and then adjust the gain from there that way I can control everything from the head unit and never worry that I’m gonna do damage because the gain was set at the max setting allowable on the head unit m..if that makes sense
Hello I have this sub running a kicker cx400 amp that is supposed to do 300 watts at 2ohm. I set my gains but I used a neutral 50hz test tone when I set my gains. What is the purpose of using a -10 db hertz It seems like the comp r’s I’ve seen hit waaaay harder than my set up with the same speakers Is my amp under powered for this speaker or should I use the -5 or -10 db test tone? I have a small Focus ST hatch btw. Good informative video 😀
@@roblee454 Settings are calibrated with my multi-meter and according to kickers voltage chart. I actually had it set wrong with the gain too high until yesterday ironically when I noticed I set it for speaker rms not my amp. I’m glad I didn’t damage it with clipping but fortunately for me I never maxed out the volume and was under half most of the time. I had it set to 31.62 volts which is for a 500 watt rms amp and I should have had it at 24.49 volts according to the chart. Im now right around 25-26 since the amp dyno said its doing 498 rms so im guessing the 2 ohm is really close to 350 rms so 25 volts is about right which is about 1/4-3/8 gain on knob. Crossover is set to 60-80 and bass boost is 0. I’m not saying it sounds bad but I’m guessing the 600watt rms from the cxa800 amp would be a lot better. It’s getting under powered. It moves when peaked on certain songs, mainly very bass heavy rap or r&b ones but I just invested in the open box cxa800 amp from Best Buy . I’m going to upgrade my power and ground to 4 gauge and set it at the 34.64 kicker recommends for 600 watt rims at 2 ohms. There should be a notable improvement.
I have this speaker using the kicker key at 300rms. It sounds really good and I haven't been able to find a replacement. I'm thinking of an L7R loaded enclosure using the same amp. I installed a CompR wired to 1ohm with the same enclosure to get the 500RMS and it sounded bad. It was louder but didn't hit hard, mostly noisy. I have a 2022 Q5 with B&O system so any other amp will not work every 10 or so startups. I heard it's a normal behavior with that system when the factory sub isn't connected. I opened up the filters and crossover because it also didn't sound good with those settings. I read that opening it up is fine since I connected it from the factory sub and used it's own filters and crossovers and it goes up to 100hz.
Hello! I'd like to share my experience with this loaded kicker box. I owned the two 12's version. I used this loaded sub box for one year, I noticed a few things that I didn't like about it. Anything below 40hz is too quiet, as 50hz-60hz overpowers the rest of the frequencies. I originally thought that my head unit had some eq going on, but I hooked up an oscope to it and the amplitude was the same across all frequencies, all the way down to 1hz. I also replicated this box in Win ISD and the response was not great. I made a new custom subwoofer box for the same vehicle and used the same amplifier and it further proved my point. For rock music it sounds decent to me, but in bass heavy music and rap, it's underwhelming. If you do a frequency response test on these subs you'll notice that the box peaks at 50hz and steadily rolls off below that; It is not a flat response. If you do test tones, you will hear it all the way down to the 30s. However when playing music, 35hz is so quiet that it might as well be nonexistent. I majored in Avionics, and have my FCC license, which made everything car audio easy to learn. During my time in college we learned in depth and hands on about frequencies in radio communications, filters, DSPs, amplifiers, tons of electronic circuits, wiring, electrical theory, etc. I made sure to thoroughly understand car audio before making a claim about anything. This kicker box sounds better than only running stock speakers, and its very loud! It was my first car audio system, I had lots of fun with these subs, but the bass response was always lacking for me.
I am running ah power acoustik 1400w amp & ah 1600w epicenter on a 12inch kicker comp r but after I try to turn it up oh put too much bass the speaker turns off itself & I have to turn off the car & turn it back on so it can work back again. Is that happening because the amp is overloading it oh does the epicenter has to do anything with it? I'd like to know if I can tune the amp so the speaker can blast without any problems? Oh do I have to replace the amp oh epicenter with lower watt? Quick question .
Great video. Well thought out content and you covered pretty much everything. One thing I wanted to inquire about tho. Won’t changing crossover points, levels and EQ on the deck affect the clipping point (I’ve heard different opinions and some say it depends on the quality of the head unit)? I really need to get an oscope or splurge, get the DD1 and tune other peoples rides…lol
Ok to answer the question.. logic says yes it will affect the clipping point but let’s keep in mind each song is recorded differently so adjusting things like the eq will allow us to compensate not only that but also also if the speakers we have lack in certain frequencies. Let your ears guide you. But yeah get the DD1 charge a little to tune or chip in with a few friends. Thanks for the comment it is a great point!!
Most modern day vehicles for like the last 10 years or more all have either factory base blockers or factory amps that already crossover to the said speakers and prevents them from getting damaged even at make volume no matter the case.. so really disconnecting all the other speakers is more or less a mute step for 95% of people who would be looking at something like this.. also 99.9999 are not going to had the d1 lol.. so really a lot of this is kinda over the top.. at best some will have and understand how to use a multimeter which might not be the best but it’s worked for more then 35 years of car audio tuners.. I mean old school turn radio to 80-85% if max and tune from there with a multi has been time proven for the basics.. no one buying this sun and box is going to comps lol
The L7 are a class above... If you don't want something that hits super hard or want something a lil cheaper the kicker comp is the way to go BUT if you have the money get the L7
Why did you tune amp at subwoofer level 8 then turn it up to 12, if your amp is tuned at a lower power signal then you crank it up wouldnt that make the amp push clipped signal to the sub?????
Same thing I thought, also when he said you can adjust your EQ after he set his gains. I'm still learning all this stuff though so I'm just trying to make sure I learn the right thing
I think I have experienced a similar situation in the past. My amp was tuned but when the bass would come on, speakers would pop and the amp would shut off. Increasing the gain corrected that.
This is what I'm confused about with this sub which I'm buying used for $20 tonight (a super steal, lol). SonicElectronix guides say you can wire this sub to a final impedance of 4 ohms or 1 ohm on a mono amp, and 4 ohms on a 2-channel amp. @BreakersStereo, is this sub wired in the enclosure some special way to get the final impedance to 2 ohms on a mono amp? Should I get an amp rated for 500w RMS @ 4 ohms or 2 ohms??? Would really appreciate an answer so I can buy the right amp and I don't have a multimeter either. Lol
Why would you turn the sun level down? Alpine sub outputs are attenuators only, so “15” is really “0” and “0” is really “-15”. Setting gains at 8 chops out over half of the available Voltage
Yes that is correct the alpine radios sub level is an attenuation. But in the instructions read as the following ” If you have a bass boost knob or level control knob, set them to the middle of their range. This will allow a slight adustment up or down to preference after the gain is set.” I interpret this as to set a level in the middle so l it will allow adjustment up or down depending on preference.
@@BreakersStereo yes, but that’s for knobs connected to something AFTER the head unit and AFTER you’ve set the gain. To properly set the gains on an Alpine with an amp or processor with a bass knob you set the Alpine sun level at “15”, disconnect the knob, then set the gains and this will be your maximum unclipped volume. Then you can use the full range of the bass knob and not have to worry about clipping.
Yes, that's what I said to do lol Your video said to set the gains with the sub level at 8, not 15, which is why I mentioned it. Alpine has been the same since they started adding sub level control to their HUs in the 90s. It always confused the hell out of my customers and I was always having to fix it for them.
I just bought this off of someone. Coming from the Comp S. I had to redo all of my numbers/dials so if you didn’t do that. That’s probably why. Got hot real quick from the settings I had set for my Comp S. Lol.
Bass eq, boost or anything like that is nothing but distortion.. don’t ever use any of that simply set the gains.. you’ll get more power and cleaner louder bass wo any sort of boosting gimmicks
Why do you guys never do things in a sealed Box amd play rock music as well so people like me can get an idea of how they sound in a sealed box with rock music? Not everyone listens to rap.
I’ve got this in a truck. I play 98% rock. It sounds really crisp and hits hard. I decided to play some car bass songs and it definitely hits different than rock.
I clicked on the video because I was interested in the specs and rundown on the sub - you wound up having the exact amp and vehicle I have as well!
I love Kicker. I am running dual 10" Kicker Comp Rs in a vented box off of a Kicker CXA 600.1 amp and love the sound.
One of these with the cxa800.1 running off a kisloc loc will beat the pants off most other dual 12 setups off 2-3x the power..
138.5db for less then $500 that any stock electrical system can run.. I’ve seen people hit these with 3-4K burns no issues and hit 142 pretty easy..
I mean the dual skar sdr package off 2x the power and 2x the box and 2x the woofer surface area only hits the same ranges.. pretty impressive imop.. perfect for a daily driver that you want louder then normal wo giving up much space or having to go big on electrical
I have two of these 12's in a ported box and kicker cx 800 amp . I'm very impressed
Nice! Thanks for sharing that
I just got this speaker after returning Cerwin Vegas and boy does it bang. Glad I didn't buy two of them. One is all I needed.
This sub is great and I’m glad I watched this video
Should i get this one or the older model? 2016 release, what’s the difference?
Nice video, you should do the same demo with the down fire line, specially the KICKER CVTDF 10 or 12...I wonder how 2 of those 10s sound like on an open trunk?
We’ll put it on the list. Thanks for the comment
Here in South Africa our spl team leader makes 151.3 db with 2 10 inch subwoofers and can make a 8 inch push 140 db doing frequency in car though, this figure in the video is nice for a vehicle that size
Wouldn't adjusting your subwoofer level and EQ after you set your gain, actually send more power to your subwoofer and start clipping it?
Some gain overlap and minimum EQ on the highs would be ok probably, but the bass boost is pushing it.
With the subwoofer level, it depends how you set it. If you set it at 3/4 so you can raise it a little on quiet songs, or if it’s set at the full/max level. But that would probably make more sense without any - gain overlap. At least that’s my opinion.
The way I’ve always done it is set my levels on the head unit to max and then adjust the gain from there that way I can control everything from the head unit and never worry that I’m gonna do damage because the gain was set at the max setting allowable on the head unit m..if that makes sense
Hello
I have this sub running a kicker cx400 amp that is supposed to do 300 watts at 2ohm. I set my gains but I used a neutral 50hz test tone when I set my gains. What is the purpose of using a -10 db hertz
It seems like the comp r’s I’ve seen hit waaaay harder than my set up with the same speakers
Is my amp under powered for this speaker or should I use the -5 or -10 db test tone? I have a small Focus ST hatch btw.
Good informative video 😀
What did you have your amp settings at? I have this exact setup you’re talking about
@@roblee454
Settings are calibrated with my multi-meter and according to kickers voltage chart. I actually had it set wrong with the gain too high until yesterday ironically when I noticed I set it for speaker rms not my amp. I’m glad I didn’t damage it with clipping but fortunately for me I never maxed out the volume and was under half most of the time. I had it set to 31.62 volts which is for a 500 watt rms amp and I should have had it at 24.49 volts according to the chart. Im now right around 25-26 since the amp dyno said its doing 498 rms so im guessing the 2 ohm is really close to 350 rms so 25 volts is about right which is about 1/4-3/8 gain on knob. Crossover is set to 60-80 and bass boost is 0. I’m not saying it sounds bad but I’m guessing the 600watt rms from the cxa800 amp would be a lot better. It’s getting under powered. It moves when peaked on certain songs, mainly very bass heavy rap or r&b ones but I just invested in the open box cxa800 amp from Best Buy . I’m going to upgrade my power and ground to 4 gauge and set it at the 34.64 kicker recommends for 600 watt rims at 2 ohms. There should be a notable improvement.
I have this speaker using the kicker key at 300rms. It sounds really good and I haven't been able to find a replacement. I'm thinking of an L7R loaded enclosure using the same amp. I installed a CompR wired to 1ohm with the same enclosure to get the 500RMS and it sounded bad. It was louder but didn't hit hard, mostly noisy. I have a 2022 Q5 with B&O system so any other amp will not work every 10 or so startups. I heard it's a normal behavior with that system when the factory sub isn't connected. I opened up the filters and crossover because it also didn't sound good with those settings. I read that opening it up is fine since I connected it from the factory sub and used it's own filters and crossovers and it goes up to 100hz.
Kicker L7S's enclosures could you do those
Hello! I'd like to share my experience with this loaded kicker box. I owned the two 12's version.
I used this loaded sub box for one year, I noticed a few things that I didn't like about it. Anything below 40hz is too quiet, as 50hz-60hz overpowers the rest of the frequencies. I originally thought that my head unit had some eq going on, but I hooked up an oscope to it and the amplitude was the same across all frequencies, all the way down to 1hz. I also replicated this box in Win ISD and the response was not great. I made a new custom subwoofer box for the same vehicle and used the same amplifier and it further proved my point. For rock music it sounds decent to me, but in bass heavy music and rap, it's underwhelming. If you do a frequency response test on these subs you'll notice that the box peaks at 50hz and steadily rolls off below that; It is not a flat response. If you do test tones, you will hear it all the way down to the 30s. However when playing music, 35hz is so quiet that it might as well be nonexistent.
I majored in Avionics, and have my FCC license, which made everything car audio easy to learn. During my time in college we learned in depth and hands on about frequencies in radio communications, filters, DSPs, amplifiers, tons of electronic circuits, wiring, electrical theory, etc. I made sure to thoroughly understand car audio before making a claim about anything.
This kicker box sounds better than only running stock speakers, and its very loud! It was my first car audio system, I had lots of fun with these subs, but the bass response was always lacking for me.
"it is a great value!" 500 watts @ 2 ohms is the perfect medium.
larry
I am running ah power acoustik 1400w amp & ah 1600w epicenter on a 12inch kicker comp r but after I try to turn it up oh put too much bass the speaker turns off itself & I have to turn off the car & turn it back on so it can work back again. Is that happening because the amp is overloading it oh does the epicenter has to do anything with it? I'd like to know if I can tune the amp so the speaker can blast without any problems? Oh do I have to replace the amp oh epicenter with lower watt? Quick question .
Great video. Well thought out content and you covered pretty much everything. One thing I wanted to inquire about tho. Won’t changing crossover points, levels and EQ on the deck affect the clipping point (I’ve heard different opinions and some say it depends on the quality of the head unit)? I really need to get an oscope or splurge, get the DD1 and tune other peoples rides…lol
Ok to answer the question.. logic says yes it will affect the clipping point but let’s keep in mind each song is recorded differently so adjusting things like the eq will allow us to compensate not only that but also also if the speakers we have lack in certain frequencies. Let your ears guide you. But yeah get the DD1 charge a little to tune or chip in with a few friends. Thanks for the comment it is a great point!!
I have this sun wired up to a 1600 watt kicker amp this sub Forsure is a headturner on the streets
Is your amp 1 oh stable
@@mikethomas3163 I have the cxa8001 800w rms mono class d sub amp
@@stefguillen6760 city u in
This vs the Kicker 48TCWRT122
Which would sound better?
Where in a car is the best place to put it (I was thinking the trunk but where at in the trunk) honda accord 2016
Can it handle the kicker key 500.1?
Most modern day vehicles for like the last 10 years or more all have either factory base blockers or factory amps that already crossover to the said speakers and prevents them from getting damaged even at make volume no matter the case.. so really disconnecting all the other speakers is more or less a mute step for 95% of people who would be looking at something like this.. also 99.9999 are not going to had the d1 lol.. so really a lot of this is kinda over the top.. at best some will have and understand how to use a multimeter which might not be the best but it’s worked for more then 35 years of car audio tuners..
I mean old school turn radio to 80-85% if max and tune from there with a multi has been time proven for the basics.. no one buying this sun and box is going to comps lol
How would you compare this sub to the square L7
The L7 are a class above... If you don't want something that hits super hard or want something a lil cheaper the kicker comp is the way to go BUT if you have the money get the L7
Why did you tune amp at subwoofer level 8 then turn it up to 12, if your amp is tuned at a lower power signal then you crank it up wouldnt that make the amp push clipped signal to the sub?????
Same thing I thought, also when he said you can adjust your EQ after he set his gains. I'm still learning all this stuff though so I'm just trying to make sure I learn the right thing
I think I have experienced a similar situation in the past. My amp was tuned but when the bass would come on, speakers would pop and the amp would shut off. Increasing the gain corrected that.
Is the amp 4 ohm , the 2 ohm sub?
Can you do a review on the kicker quadbox
I would love to if they were available 😕
@@BreakersStereo what do you think it takes to do a hair trick in a SUV
Is the amp 1ohm or 4 ohm
This is what I'm confused about with this sub which I'm buying used for $20 tonight (a super steal, lol). SonicElectronix guides say you can wire this sub to a final impedance of 4 ohms or 1 ohm on a mono amp, and 4 ohms on a 2-channel amp. @BreakersStereo, is this sub wired in the enclosure some special way to get the final impedance to 2 ohms on a mono amp? Should I get an amp rated for 500w RMS @ 4 ohms or 2 ohms??? Would really appreciate an answer so I can buy the right amp and I don't have a multimeter either. Lol
@@christianroby9405what did you end up getting?
Why would you turn the sun level down? Alpine sub outputs are attenuators only, so “15” is really “0” and “0” is really “-15”. Setting gains at 8 chops out over half of the available Voltage
Yes that is correct the alpine radios sub level is an attenuation. But in the instructions read as the following ” If you have a bass boost knob or level control knob, set them to the middle of their range. This will allow a slight adustment up or down to preference after the gain is set.” I interpret this as to set a level in the middle so l it will allow adjustment up or down depending on preference.
@@BreakersStereo yes, but that’s for knobs connected to something AFTER the head unit and AFTER you’ve set the gain. To properly set the gains on an Alpine with an amp or processor with a bass knob you set the Alpine sun level at “15”, disconnect the knob, then set the gains and this will be your maximum unclipped volume. Then you can use the full range of the bass knob and not have to worry about clipping.
Yes, that's what I said to do lol Your video said to set the gains with the sub level at 8, not 15, which is why I mentioned it. Alpine has been the same since they started adding sub level control to their HUs in the 90s. It always confused the hell out of my customers and I was always having to fix it for them.
I bought one from best buy and it blew right away
Which amp did you run to it?
@@BreakersStereo alpine 500 watts
@@BreakersStereo the same amp lol
You definitely did something wrong lol
I just bought this off of someone. Coming from the Comp S. I had to redo all of my numbers/dials so if you didn’t do that. That’s probably why. Got hot real quick from the settings I had set for my Comp S. Lol.
Can you test an alpine halo type s enclosure
Ok we might be able to do the type s video if so we’ll use the halo box
Would you guys wanna do an install on my 21 wrx manual ? I’ll let y’all go crazy on it for your channel :)
👍
Bass eq, boost or anything like that is nothing but distortion.. don’t ever use any of that simply set the gains.. you’ll get more power and cleaner louder bass wo any sort of boosting gimmicks
The box is tuned to 34 so clearly it’s going to fall off at 34 lol
Why do you guys never do things in a sealed Box amd play rock music as well so people like me can get an idea of how they sound in a sealed box with rock music? Not everyone listens to rap.
Ported boxes are better for rock. I listen to rock and heavy metal rock 99% of the time.
I’ve got this in a truck. I play 98% rock. It sounds really crisp and hits hard. I decided to play some car bass songs and it definitely hits different than rock.
8s and 10s sound better for rock. my advice buy a 12 inch sub and a 8 inch sub and have them play together
if only the SMD dd1 wasn't TWO HUNDERED BUCKS
Hes doing it all wrong once he turn up subwoofer level after the -10 db gain he introduced distortion