I want to echo the sentiments of a commenter several videos ago: How is it that Aloha Plant Life doesn't have more subscribers, with meaty, free content about botany's complexity? When we move from seeing a plant as decor to wondering how it stays alive, channels like this are golden. I know I will watch today's video several times and prob refer to it down the line. Thank you for all your work explaining , Drea !
Well, now I feel like I know even less than when I started with houseplants. I tried filtered water, I have tried conditioner, I have bought a moisture meter because that's what I keep reading and hearing that's what my plants need. I have bought neem oil, tea tree oil, natural soap, granulated fertilizer, liquid fertilizer... How on earth can I possibly know what causes all my plant woes without a laboratory? If it's not the moisture level in the air, and not the tap water or pests that is causing browning tips, what is it? Are nice looking plants an illusiion, an unobtainable goal? WHAT IS REALITY?! Sorry Drea, I love your scientific content, it's nothing personal. I think I might be having a plant identity crisis. Keep up the good (illusion of control shattering) work!
Not science bc I'm not researching but i used to have a planted fresh water fish tank. My water is natural like an 8 so quite high esp for tender fish, i used a pH buffer to bring it down to safe levels, my snails would go to the top and out of the water if the water was too acidic or too alkaline which i wanted to avoid BC this put stress on them and worse could cause pain. Since i didn't fertilize my tank bc i had fish and snails I'm going to say that yes the pH changers do bind with the TDS (total dissolved solids) in the water including the nutrients in this case fish poops. My tank plants though did really well, they were under water plants so no part of them was above the water line, they bloomed and stuff and did the things they should when happy. (I have well water). The "stress coat" binders say they remove things like fluoride, chloramine and the stuff added to city water. It doesn't say it removes nutrients from water OR that it's not safe for a planted tank! We also know that it's leaving oxygen which contains hydrogen bc it's allowing the water to carry oxygen to the fish. So, i personally don't think the stress coat type stuff is harmful and on the contrary I've seen ppl using it over a year on UA-cam and they no longer suffer from the crispy calathea edges. If i was too be willing to be all sciencey on my plants i would mix my water/fertilizer then i would do a basic pH test and if it was to alkaline i would do pH down, but i wouldn't do pH up if it was too acidic bc the soil will buffer it back up... In outdoor settings most ppl use a pH changer bc certain plants don't bloom the colors they want if their pH isn't right. Iirc it's very common for ppl growing hydrangeas! End of the day if you're plants are growing at the speed you expect and you're feeding and watering properly then there is little reason to go through any of this. If you're repeatedly killing the same type of plant over and over then you may need to consider these changes for that specific plant. For me, i cannot keep a peace lily alive, they require too acidic soil and unless i had an expensive one it just would've be worth the money for test products
Really interesting topic Drea, thanks for the deep dive! I'm scientifically-minded so this has been on my mind for a while. My tap water is somewhat on the hard side (as per my water provider) and slightly alkaline (as per my own testing). I was not able to ascertain chlorine/chloramine, etc. I used to filter it with a pitcher filter (a carbon filter) and found it didn't do much for the pH. The rest (hardness, chlorine, etc) I was, of course, not able to figure out. About 6 months ago, I tried treating my unfiltered tap water with an aquarium water conditioner. The results were pretty much immediate. Slightly lower pH, better growth and better looking plants! Like you I wondered what this treated water would do to my organic water soluble fertiliser. My answer was, I don't know and I can't test. So I decided to make it easy on myself. I am now watering my plants with tap water treated with aquarium water conditioner, and fertilising with my preferred fertiliser mixed into distilled water. I water first, then fertilise after a couple of days. It's been a game changer for my plants!
@@mwatson4970 I do hope that helps you! I want my houseplants to thrive but there is only so much fuss, or expense, I will go through for them. This has been easy for me, and it made sense scientifically. I have a mix of "easy" and "hard" plants, they are all doing better (just to clarify, I've had houseplants for 30+ years and there has been a lot of experimenting over the years). My life as a plant-mom is easier and that is awesome as far as I'm concerned.
When you were speaking about water conditioner to remove Chlorimine, etc. you mentioned that it could interact with fertilizer. In the aquarium hobby plants are grown underwater, and fertilizer is used to grow these plants. I, in fact, have been using aquarium plant fertilizer for my houseplants. It is difficult to assess the results, but this fertilizer has micro nutrients in it so I assumed it would be beneficial. Anyway, I don't think the water conditioner effects plant fertilizer or it would be an issue with aquatic plants. I have heard that it contains one chemical that neutralizes the chlorimine/chlorine, but don't know what it is. Hope this info. is helpful to your discussion.
The pH level of soil can have a significant impact on plant growth. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH level, typically between 6.0 and 7.0.
Great video Drea! I also is filtered water and reg tap for the non-fussy ones. But since I am more an under-waterer/fertilizer, I don't run into too many over-alkaline issues. And I agree with others that the moisture meters are mostly a hit or miss for my soil mixes 😂.
I really appreciate your attempt to bring some knowledge to the newborn collectors. But... It is not easy. I can add a few little notes. 1) Never use in the same mix peat and coco coir. They both are degradable but with a different speed. So you have to choose - either peat plus bark OR a real dirt plus coco (does not matter, coir or chunks). 2) Never plant your plant into a DRY mix. Because of the bark. Natural bark, collected under a pine tree or got as a mulch is very acidic. Bark from the premade mix (like for orchids) is almost neutral. Add 1/5 to 1/4 of volume boiling water to the mix. stir well with a spoon and let stand overnight. Then measure PH with a good tool. 3) A good tool for soil is expensive - $30 plus, battery operated. As for the water, you made it bright and clear. Tap water - conditioner - PH plus or minus - your fertilizer - PH kit. I use a Liquedirt. It does not change PH at all. I am sorry for a long essay.
great video . if you feed your plants hard, you have to keep track of ph. things like humic acid , and wollastonite will throw the ph off. spraying them with stuff like kelp changes the ionic charge./ maybe . always learning.. Shabbat Shalom Young Lady
that girl in canada is pretty ok. but you are just as wise. i find if my soil is to acidic i water with Wollastonite . Calcium inosilicate mineral with the formula CaSiO3. . if its to plain . i water with phosphoric acid. if you use a fast drain medium . this works well. . i use a big bale of peat. , about the same size bag perlite . and 2 bags Vigoro ., i do like your mix. but this is way to simple.. and works well in plastic bag pot. the ones the nursery use, very cheep. stack together well. easy to move, . then when i use it. i dump the humic kelp and fish 511... . then wollastonite .
I have found I need to check soil moisture levels with all my senses on top of the water meter to get an "accurate" idea of when to water my plants. I've had the meter reading dry when my fingers tell me there's moisture. I still use it though, as a guide while I learn to trust aforementioned senses. The more I learn, the less I seem to know, and it's frustrating me. I'm now convinced you van only become good at plant care if you've killed at least a 100 plants.
@pinstripesuitandheels I definitely will not be relying on my moisture meter. It did seem to work better before I started using some of the airy, well draining mixes. Now I am starting to worry more about under watering vs over watering! These mixes dry out very quickly and the moisture meter is useless for them!
@@mamabear9389 I have a moisture meter, and I do use it - but not for my plants that are in Drea's epiphyte mix, as it is useless. When I first started moving plants to her mixes, I pm'd her asking how I could tell when the plants in epiphyte mix need water. She told me to go by the weight of the pot, and how the leaves feel, and she was spot on! My epiphytic plants leaves will start feeling 'thin' and more flexible as the plant starts to dry out. I hope this is helpful to you.
@msscamp100 Thank you. That is great advice. I actually have been doing that also, especially with my hoyas. For my orchids, I look at the color of the roots. I am starting to get a better sense of the pot weight for each plant. It took awhile.
I use distilled water because my regular water is hard and all my plants except two are calathea/maranta. But I know for the pH, every time I watering my plants, I use a complete fertilizer (not just NPK, all nutriments + silica, it’s work for hydroponic too), I do a pH water test and I ajust the pH 😅 With this I have not the problematics of « death water ». Conditionner water with fertilizer, like you I am a bit hesitant and plant not like fluoride too and I have read this not remove chloramine only chlore 🤷♀️ Less complicated to start with nothing like distilled water! Very nice video 💛
I’m moving at the end of the year and plan to collect rain water, run it through an RO system, and then add fertilizer to it. Does that seem like a good idea?
Great video. We have hard well water which I assume may be on the alkaline side. I use the MSU fertilizer for well water and I notice it has less of some ingredients like calcium and magnesium which tend to be higher in hard water. This water and fertilizer works well for all my plants except I suspect it is problematic for my acid loving african violets. They don’t look awful but just are not doing as well as they should.
Lime doesn't fully depend on the reading. Lime will not raise the PH over a certain amount so it's very hard to overdue it. 1 TBSP of lime per gallon is the general rule of thumb and this will raise your PH by around 1-1.5. People who grow in pine bark know this very well because pine bark ph is between 4.5 and the ideal PH for plants grown in pine mixes (i.e. citrus and orchids) is 5.5-6.
Reverse osmosis is not deionized unless it has a DI cartridge attached to it which most people do not add, without that DI cartridge its not pure and will have some things in it if you test with a TDS meter such as fluoride, very few filters take this out but a DI attachment will. Only people I know who use a DI cartridge attached to their RO unit are reef keepers because they need the TDS to be zero. Having said this I use RO/DI because I have a reef aquarium but I add nutrients every time I water, I flush the soil with plain water every once in a while to eliminate any salts building up. Great video, thanks for all the research you did on this. Well thought out video and very interesting. ❤
Love this video! I could watch videos like this all day and all night! Thank you so much! ❤💛💙 Looking forward to your video on fertilizer! That's what I really need help with.
Also i understand why you said that regular LEDs cant be used for grow lights because your video is a partnership but ..regular LEDs can absolutely be used for grow lights. Ive been using 5500 Lumen LED shop lights from bug box store for a long long time and i have huge plants.
Thank you for all the effort you put into making these videos! Hands down, you've helped me help my plants more than any other source. I use remineralized RO water because my Tucson water is so alkaline. Odd thought - could coffee grounds improve aeration resulting in happier plants? I don't use them but so many people swear by them that I'm trying to figure a reasonable explanation... 🤔
Coffee grounds are really too fine to help with aeration. I think most people use them to help boost the acidity level in their soil. It’s one of those home remedies that I was talking about.💚
I use one drop of water conditioner to every liter of water. Carbon filters remove Chlorine, but not Chloramine. I doubt that it has any negative effects because my plants are all picture perfect. I have to lower the Ph because my water is alkaline. It’s a lot 🥴
Hi Drea! I love your videos and the way you can actually explain the science behind why our plants, plant. I have an off topic question I've seen some people say we should add Microb Lift BMC to our water for fungus gnats. Do you think thats a good idea? I trust your knowledge and need your input before adding it 😂
As far as I can tell, it has the exact same ingredients in it as mosquito dunk and mosquito bits, and I use mosquito dunk for my fungus gnat prevention, so you should be good to go💚
I use water conditioner for my calathe. I don't have very many because they scare me. Lol. I killed my triostar which was my favorite plant😮 and I want a white fusion so bad! But.....I want them to look like yours. Oh and killed my Rosapicta too. It's frustrating because they are so beautiful. Also having trouble with my Alocasia. Ahhh! A plant mom's woes!
I live in the Greenville Texas area and our water pH is around 8.2 coming out of the tap. I know this because I have fish tanks and test my water often. Is 8.2 too high of an alkalinity for my house plants. Am I one of those that should actually do something about lowering it?or is it not that big of a deal?
Yes, that is definitely too high. I wonder what the heck they’re doing so different in Greenville to the water? You’re not that far from me and mines nowhere near that on the pH scale… is it city water? Or are you on a well system?
@@AlohaPlantLife it’s Cash Water District. I’m either watering with the water from my aquariums or I’m treating the water with the same conditioner I use before I add water to my aquariums. Thank you for bringing this up on your channel ;)
I want to echo the sentiments of a commenter several videos ago: How is it that Aloha Plant Life doesn't have more subscribers, with meaty, free content about botany's complexity? When we move from seeing a plant as decor to wondering how it stays alive, channels like this are golden. I know I will watch today's video several times and prob refer to it down the line. Thank you for all your work explaining , Drea !
You’re most welcome!💚
Well, now I feel like I know even less than when I started with houseplants. I tried filtered water, I have tried conditioner, I have bought a moisture meter because that's what I keep reading and hearing that's what my plants need. I have bought neem oil, tea tree oil, natural soap, granulated fertilizer, liquid fertilizer...
How on earth can I possibly know what causes all my plant woes without a laboratory? If it's not the moisture level in the air, and not the tap water or pests that is causing browning tips, what is it? Are nice looking plants an illusiion, an unobtainable goal? WHAT IS REALITY?!
Sorry Drea, I love your scientific content, it's nothing personal. I think I might be having a plant identity crisis.
Keep up the good (illusion of control shattering) work!
omg same here. The amount of time and the money I have spent... for the results I get. Its been an absolute disaster.
I love the deep dives you take in your videos! And I appreciate your time and effort! Thanks 🌱 💚
You are so welcome!💚
Not science bc I'm not researching but i used to have a planted fresh water fish tank. My water is natural like an 8 so quite high esp for tender fish, i used a pH buffer to bring it down to safe levels, my snails would go to the top and out of the water if the water was too acidic or too alkaline which i wanted to avoid BC this put stress on them and worse could cause pain. Since i didn't fertilize my tank bc i had fish and snails I'm going to say that yes the pH changers do bind with the TDS (total dissolved solids) in the water including the nutrients in this case fish poops. My tank plants though did really well, they were under water plants so no part of them was above the water line, they bloomed and stuff and did the things they should when happy. (I have well water). The "stress coat" binders say they remove things like fluoride, chloramine and the stuff added to city water. It doesn't say it removes nutrients from water OR that it's not safe for a planted tank! We also know that it's leaving oxygen which contains hydrogen bc it's allowing the water to carry oxygen to the fish. So, i personally don't think the stress coat type stuff is harmful and on the contrary I've seen ppl using it over a year on UA-cam and they no longer suffer from the crispy calathea edges. If i was too be willing to be all sciencey on my plants i would mix my water/fertilizer then i would do a basic pH test and if it was to alkaline i would do pH down, but i wouldn't do pH up if it was too acidic bc the soil will buffer it back up...
In outdoor settings most ppl use a pH changer bc certain plants don't bloom the colors they want if their pH isn't right. Iirc it's very common for ppl growing hydrangeas!
End of the day if you're plants are growing at the speed you expect and you're feeding and watering properly then there is little reason to go through any of this. If you're repeatedly killing the same type of plant over and over then you may need to consider these changes for that specific plant. For me, i cannot keep a peace lily alive, they require too acidic soil and unless i had an expensive one it just would've be worth the money for test products
Really interesting topic Drea, thanks for the deep dive!
I'm scientifically-minded so this has been on my mind for a while. My tap water is somewhat on the hard side (as per my water provider) and slightly alkaline (as per my own testing). I was not able to ascertain chlorine/chloramine, etc. I used to filter it with a pitcher filter (a carbon filter) and found it didn't do much for the pH. The rest (hardness, chlorine, etc) I was, of course, not able to figure out.
About 6 months ago, I tried treating my unfiltered tap water with an aquarium water conditioner. The results were pretty much immediate. Slightly lower pH, better growth and better looking plants!
Like you I wondered what this treated water would do to my organic water soluble fertiliser. My answer was, I don't know and I can't test. So I decided to make it easy on myself. I am now watering my plants with tap water treated with aquarium water conditioner, and fertilising with my preferred fertiliser mixed into distilled water.
I water first, then fertilise after a couple of days.
It's been a game changer for my plants!
Oooh, I like this option! May try this for a few struggle plants. And really love the thought the research you put into this too!
@@mwatson4970
I do hope that helps you!
I want my houseplants to thrive but there is only so much fuss, or expense, I will go through for them. This has been easy for me, and it made sense scientifically. I have a mix of "easy" and "hard" plants, they are all doing better (just to clarify, I've had houseplants for 30+ years and there has been a lot of experimenting over the years). My life as a plant-mom is easier and that is awesome as far as I'm concerned.
When you were speaking about water conditioner to remove Chlorimine, etc. you mentioned that it could interact with fertilizer. In the aquarium hobby plants are grown underwater, and fertilizer is used to grow these plants. I, in fact, have been using aquarium plant fertilizer for my houseplants. It is difficult to assess the results, but this fertilizer has micro nutrients in it so I assumed it would be beneficial. Anyway, I don't think the water conditioner effects plant fertilizer or it would be an issue with aquatic plants. I have heard that it contains one chemical that neutralizes the chlorimine/chlorine, but don't know what it is. Hope this info. is helpful to your discussion.
Thanks for the helpful insight!💚
I only use conditioner when I water my calatheas and other prayer plants and spider plants and sometimes ferns
The pH level of soil can have a significant impact on plant growth. Most plants prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH level, typically between 6.0 and 7.0.
Thanks again for the great video and all the research you put into this. I appreciate you🎉
Great video Drea! I also is filtered water and reg tap for the non-fussy ones. But since I am more an under-waterer/fertilizer, I don't run into too many over-alkaline issues. And I agree with others that the moisture meters are mostly a hit or miss for my soil mixes 😂.
I really appreciate your attempt to bring some knowledge to the newborn collectors.
But... It is not easy.
I can add a few little notes.
1) Never use in the same mix peat and coco coir. They both are degradable but with a different speed. So you have to choose - either peat plus bark OR a real dirt plus coco (does not matter, coir or chunks).
2) Never plant your plant into a DRY mix.
Because of the bark. Natural bark, collected under a pine tree or got as a mulch is very acidic. Bark from the premade mix (like for orchids) is almost neutral. Add 1/5 to 1/4 of volume boiling water to the mix. stir well with a spoon and let stand overnight. Then measure PH with a good tool.
3) A good tool for soil is expensive - $30 plus, battery operated.
As for the water, you made it bright and clear. Tap water - conditioner - PH plus or minus - your fertilizer - PH kit.
I use a Liquedirt. It does not change PH at all.
I am sorry for a long essay.
great video . if you feed your plants hard, you have to keep track of ph. things like humic acid , and wollastonite will throw the ph off. spraying them with stuff like kelp changes the ionic charge./ maybe . always learning.. Shabbat Shalom Young Lady
that girl in canada is pretty ok. but you are just as wise. i find if my soil is to acidic i water with Wollastonite . Calcium inosilicate mineral with the formula CaSiO3. . if its to plain . i water with phosphoric acid. if you use a fast drain medium . this works well. . i use a big bale of peat. , about the same size bag perlite . and 2 bags Vigoro ., i do like your mix. but this is way to simple.. and works well in plastic bag pot. the ones the nursery use, very cheep. stack together well. easy to move, . then when i use it. i dump the humic kelp and fish 511... . then wollastonite .
I have found that water meters do not work at all in my super draining soil mixes. They do seem to work better in the heavier mixes.
I have found I need to check soil moisture levels with all my senses on top of the water meter to get an "accurate" idea of when to water my plants. I've had the meter reading dry when my fingers tell me there's moisture. I still use it though, as a guide while I learn to trust aforementioned senses. The more I learn, the less I seem to know, and it's frustrating me. I'm now convinced you van only become good at plant care if you've killed at least a 100 plants.
@@pinstripesuitandheels
I agree !!!
@pinstripesuitandheels I definitely will not be relying on my moisture meter. It did seem to work better before I started using some of the airy, well draining mixes. Now I am starting to worry more about under watering vs over watering! These mixes dry out very quickly and the moisture meter is useless for them!
@@mamabear9389 I have a moisture meter, and I do use it - but not for my plants that are in Drea's epiphyte mix, as it is useless. When I first started moving plants to her mixes, I pm'd her asking how I could tell when the plants in epiphyte mix need water. She told me to go by the weight of the pot, and how the leaves feel, and she was spot on! My epiphytic plants leaves will start feeling 'thin' and more flexible as the plant starts to dry out. I hope this is helpful to you.
@msscamp100 Thank you. That is great advice. I actually have been doing that also, especially with my hoyas. For my orchids, I look at the color of the roots. I am starting to get a better sense of the pot weight for each plant. It took awhile.
I use distilled water because my regular water is hard and all my plants except two are calathea/maranta. But I know for the pH, every time I watering my plants, I use a complete fertilizer (not just NPK, all nutriments + silica, it’s work for hydroponic too), I do a pH water test and I ajust the pH 😅 With this I have not the problematics of « death water ». Conditionner water with fertilizer, like you I am a bit hesitant and plant not like fluoride too and I have read this not remove chloramine only chlore 🤷♀️ Less complicated to start with nothing like distilled water! Very nice video 💛
I’m moving at the end of the year and plan to collect rain water, run it through an RO system, and then add fertilizer to it. Does that seem like a good idea?
Great video. We have hard well water which I assume may be on the alkaline side. I use the MSU fertilizer for well water and I notice it has less of some ingredients like calcium and magnesium which tend to be higher in hard water. This water and fertilizer works well for all my plants except I suspect it is problematic for my acid loving african violets. They don’t look awful but just are not doing as well as they should.
Lime doesn't fully depend on the reading. Lime will not raise the PH over a certain amount so it's very hard to overdue it. 1 TBSP of lime per gallon is the general rule of thumb and this will raise your PH by around 1-1.5. People who grow in pine bark know this very well because pine bark ph is between 4.5 and the ideal PH for plants grown in pine mixes (i.e. citrus and orchids) is 5.5-6.
Great video !
Thank you!
Reverse osmosis is not deionized unless it has a DI cartridge attached to it which most people do not add, without that DI cartridge its not pure and will have some things in it if you test with a TDS meter such as fluoride, very few filters take this out but a DI attachment will. Only people I know who use a DI cartridge attached to their RO unit are reef keepers because they need the TDS to be zero. Having said this I use RO/DI because I have a reef aquarium but I add nutrients every time I water, I flush the soil with plain water every once in a while to eliminate any salts building up. Great video, thanks for all the research you did on this. Well thought out video and very interesting. ❤
Love this video! I could watch videos like this all day and all night! Thank you so much! ❤💛💙 Looking forward to your video on fertilizer! That's what I really need help with.
Also i understand why you said that regular LEDs cant be used for grow lights because your video is a partnership but ..regular LEDs can absolutely be used for grow lights.
Ive been using 5500 Lumen LED shop lights from bug box store for a long long time and i have huge plants.
It would be so helpful if you used numeric examples to indicate what you mean by "a little" or "massively."
Thank you for all the effort you put into making these videos! Hands down, you've helped me help my plants more than any other source. I use remineralized RO water because my Tucson water is so alkaline. Odd thought - could coffee grounds improve aeration resulting in happier plants? I don't use them but so many people swear by them that I'm trying to figure a reasonable explanation... 🤔
Coffee grounds are really too fine to help with aeration. I think most people use them to help boost the acidity level in their soil. It’s one of those home remedies that I was talking about.💚
I use one drop of water conditioner to every liter of water. Carbon filters remove Chlorine, but not Chloramine. I doubt that it has any negative effects because my plants are all picture perfect. I have to lower the Ph because my water is alkaline. It’s a lot 🥴
Yikes! That distilled water is interesting. Glad I never use it! 😅 Thanks again for this wonderful knowledge!
Love your videos! Thanks for all the great info.
Glad you like them!💚
Hi Drea! I love your videos and the way you can actually explain the science behind why our plants, plant. I have an off topic question I've seen some people say we should add Microb Lift BMC to our water for fungus gnats. Do you think thats a good idea? I trust your knowledge and need your input before adding it 😂
As far as I can tell, it has the exact same ingredients in it as mosquito dunk and mosquito bits, and I use mosquito dunk for my fungus gnat prevention, so you should be good to go💚
Thank you! 😊
I use water conditioner for my calathe. I don't have very many because they scare me. Lol. I killed my triostar which was my favorite plant😮 and I want a white fusion so bad! But.....I want them to look like yours. Oh and killed my Rosapicta too. It's frustrating because they are so beautiful. Also having trouble with my Alocasia. Ahhh! A plant mom's woes!
Hello can you put a pony tail plant in hydroponics?
I live in the Greenville Texas area and our water pH is around 8.2 coming out of the tap. I know this because I have fish tanks and test my water often. Is 8.2 too high of an alkalinity for my house plants. Am I one of those that should actually do something about lowering it?or is it not that big of a deal?
Yes, that is definitely too high. I wonder what the heck they’re doing so different in Greenville to the water? You’re not that far from me and mines nowhere near that on the pH scale… is it city water? Or are you on a well system?
@@AlohaPlantLife it’s Cash Water District. I’m either watering with the water from my aquariums or I’m treating the water with the same conditioner I use before I add water to my aquariums. Thank you for bringing this up on your channel ;)
The moisture in my soil shows a pH of 8.9. Will it make it difficult for plants to absorb nutrients?
Yes, that’s way too alkaline