Hello Rob, This oak bowl turned out great. I have some oak bowls I turned in the fall still drying and I think as I finish then I will be doing some ebonizing. Thanks for taking your time to video and share with everyone, Jim
I'm sort of sitting on the fence on this one. In some ways I like it but others just not quite so sure, I nearly made some of the ebonizing solution myself a while ago, but in the end did a Mike and bought the spray can. Great video to watch, thanks for sharing. Oh and I would be the same as you, keep tunring it even with those cracks, nothing lost as long as you try and stay as safe as possible.
Paul, being on the fence is fine, I was there too with change, but I am happy to be trying new things and getting results like this, granted it isn't for every piece but its good to have a toolbox of knowledge and use it. Even if it didn't work out, so what, there's lots more wood where that came from.. take care and be creative Rob
Hi Rob .Cool looking bowl. I've used iron acetate quite a bit to antique furniture . It works great .I use pickling vinegar . It has a higher acid content . So it breaks the steelwool down faster . The finish looks awesome . Take care.
Jerry Callender Sounds great, another option is burning with a blow torch, I’ve used this method to blacken wood and add texture to a piece, obviously has its risks but great results ua-cam.com/video/uioode6WyNA/v-deo.html Take care Rob
Kostas Thank you, it's a great product. I was pleased with it too, it turned an ordinary blah bowl into something a little bit different. Take care man Rob
Fantastic results with that ebonizing solution. I have some red oak myself that I was a little reluctant to use but that might just change in the future
It's not always necessary to use a obonising solution. A large plastic bag, a small container and and liquid ammonia ca. 35%. Place the oak item in the plastic bag, pore a quarter cup of ammonia into the container and place it into the bag with the oak item and that seal the bag. The ammonia vapour will react with the tannin in the oak and turn it black.
Also, get a load of sanding oak dust and ebonise it. Dry it, and shove it into the cracks and CA it. Your cracks will be black instead of a natural oak colour.
Wonderful result Rob!! Really pretty! I've tried making a solution myself before, but it never worked, the wire wool never dissolved. A video I've seen a few days before gave me two pointers, one is to wash the wire wool with water and soap before the process, as it seems the wire wool comes with an oil coating that protects it, and also boiling the pot, like you did. So I'll try that in a couple of days. I do have a lot of Oak (Holms Oak) where I live, so I'm itching to see how it will react to it. Thank again for sharing this video mate! Yuval.
Yuval Yes I think I saw those same videos, although vinegar should break down any coating on the wire wool, I simply rinsed the wire wool in water, maybe that helps the rust start, then boiled it over 2 days occasionally, and it worked. The ti wax though really made it pop though I think. I was amazed at the results, yes vinegar smells, but the final wax coating seals it.. Take care Rob
Hey, Rob and Yuval. The reaction goes quicker if the steel wool is cleaned, and acetone works better than soap & water. Also, pickling vinegar (10% acetic acid) works better than cooking vinegar (3% acetic acid). The ebonising mix will also last longer if you filter it a couple of times. Rob -- beautiful result. Oak is, I think, underappreciated as a turning wood. Clyde (biochemist in a prior life...)
Nice looking bowl Rob. In answer to one of the other commenters, a tea solution (15-20 teabags + 1qt. water) prior to using the ebonizing solution will help on lighter woods like ash. Use a test sample 1st. ps....Still using the Yorkshire grit and Hampshiresheen products with great results.
RANDY Smith Great info, I suppose the tannins in the tea solution help the ebonizing solution darken the wood. I'm glad you are using the Yorkshire grit and Hampshire sheen, and enjoying the results, if you wouldn't mind would you go to my website and see if you can leave any comments about your experience with dealing with me and the products. Thanks again Rob
Wow, that’s awesome Rob. Like the coffee and epoxy as a filler and will try it myself, same with the vinegar and steel wool ;-) Great stuff Rob, love watching your videos. All the best from Yorkshire ;-)
Lance Thanks again, I’ve picked up lots of tips and tricks from different people along the way, ebonizing is certainly an interesting technique Take care Rob
I'm not much of a color guy, but I have a couple of bowls that might just fit the ebonizing you just did on that oak bowl. Thanks so much for doing the video.
Thanks mike, I will be trying it again soon too, The only thing I would change is I wouldn't want to deal with the crack and I would use yorkshire grit before the Ti wax instead of after Thanks for watching Rob
Mike I didn't think much of colouring as i mentioned in my 10 question but you know what they say, "once you go black, you don't go back" 🤣 I really like this ebonized look, a different characteristic or dimension to our work. Take care Rob
I've been woodworking for a few years now, mostly rustic stuff like building my own headboard for my bed and a storage "thing" for over a toilet. I've realized though, white oak seems to me like it has a slightly more dramatic change when ebonizing than red. Could just be me, but thats what i've noticed.
James Yes that's what I did, although cutting back with Yorkshire grit did take some of that Pop away it gave it a really nice smooth finish, I could perhaps have given it to wax after the YG, bug this is my first time using both the ebonizing solution and the Ti-wax and I'm thrilled with the results. Take care Rob
Nice job Rob. Give us a look at the next try when you sort out the order of operations. This bowl is beautiful, but I noticed the Ti-wax faded a bit. A slight change procedure should give a more striking result. I wonder what other woods react to the ebonizing solution? I'll experiment a little and see what happens. Good video, but volume control is still distracting. Like!
lol, turn your volume down ;-) woods with a higher tannin volume take well to ebonizing, but you can introduce tanins into wood with a tea solution, obviously all will introduce potential chemical or moisture in to the wood but for a decorative item, that is ok,,,,,, i think.... have fun experimenting Rob
I was speaking of volume of the intro music...much louder than your voice. I do turn down the volume, but then turn it back up to hear your voice. Yours is certainly not the only YT channel with this problem. I don't make videos so I know nothing about the process, it seems to me the there must be a way to balance the volume. Not to worry, I'll still be watching your videos and doing what my wife suggests..."Deal with it!" ;-)
Nice project. I don't do it much but ebonizing tannin containing woods is just fascinating. Would be nice if you could work on the balance between the voice segments and music. If I have the volume so that I can understand you when you switch to the music it is jarring! Thanks for sharing.
Hi Rob, Could I use Ti-wax then varnish / lacquer it over ? I Don't suppose you'd know what would happen if I were to apply an Expoy resin clear over the Ti-wax for a high gloss finish ?
i honestly do not know, my thoughts are that it would be ok, i have used shellac based sanding sealer over c wax prior to ti wax, would be a good thing to try it though as many people like an epoxy style gloss finish, personally i prefer a wax finish where it still feels like wood. take care and let me know if you do try this Rob
my understanding is that it will work with woods that have higher tannin levels, oak being one of them, its worth experimenting with different woods and their reactions. I was surprised at how quickly i got a reaction, so very happy with this result. take care Rob
Aaron, id have to say not significantly, i used yorkshire grit after the ti wax although i probably didnt need to do that, the finished bowl still looks good although the wood was compromised with those cracks. give it a try it was a lot of fun. the Ti wax really helped make it pop too take care Rob
Hi Rob, What exactly does the ti-wax do? I mean besides popping the grain on that piece. What does it do on a un-ebonized piece? I couldn't find too much info on your site about it. The effect on the ebonized piece was great! Kind of reminded me of gilt cream. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Michael, Ti wax is in fact a finishing wax with the added ingredient of titanium dioxide, which is used widely in the cosmetic industry, basically what it does is highlight the open pours of course grained wood such as oak and ash. You don't have to ebonize a piece to enjoy the added pezzaz!! but I wanted to pop this particular piece with ti wax, as I had not had a chance to use it as yet, or the ebonizing fluid.. which i loved. I must say I was impressed with the results myself, although in the future I would apply Yorkshire grit PRIOR to ti wax not after. the result is much like gilt cream and the consistency of the product is very pleasing, the waxes result in a tough durable longer lasting finish than most on the market due to the fact that there is no softening bees wax in this line of Hampshire sheen products. I applied an additional coat of Hampshire sheen high gloss just to give it a finishing coat with a higher shine than the Ti wax. thanks for watching and I hope this information was helpful, try these products, you wont regret it. Take care Rob
Thanks! That was a very helpful answer! I've been thinking about trying the hampshire sheen and yorkshire grit products, just haven't gotten around to placing the order yet. Thanks again for sharing and explaining!
Haha, Rob, you are quick to reply. But forgot to mention the great job you did on hiding the crack. If it is visible, you sure have to look to find it. I know I can't see it. Nice work.
Phil Thanks for watching, if you look in the description on this video there is a link to Jeff at the walnut log studio in Missouri, he is the US retailer of Hampshire sheen, my website is in the description too for all you Canadians out there 😉 Take care Rob
Amazing Rob - nice work. Questions - when you put the steel wool in the vinegar, how much did you use for a jar that size, and did you break it up, or just put a wad of the steel wool in? Did the steel wool disintegrate or basically just "rust" and stay the same consistency as when you started? Thanks Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario
Simon Thanks for watching and your comments, a couple of guys now have mentioned music volume, I'll have to look into it Glad you enjoyed this Take care Rob
Here's a pro tip - DO NOT EVER DOUBLE DIP INTO THE MAIN CONTAINER OF IRON SOLUTION WITH THE CLOTH OR BRUSH!!!!!! FFS, you'll contaminate it so it stops working. - decant a small amount into another container like a clean margerine tub or something. - I keep a few for just such times.
Thanks for the caps tip, oddly enough more than 2 years later and the solution left in the jar is still working;-) i don't use it very often but hey there ya go. thanks for watching take care Rob
Really nice job. Best wishes.
Wow Rob. That IS impressive! The ebonizing and change in color was a surprise. The wax just made the bowl pop...just beautiful! Great job.
bobjons7
Thank you so much
Take care
Rob
Hello Rob,
This oak bowl turned out great. I have some oak bowls I turned in the fall still drying and I think as I finish then I will be doing some ebonizing.
Thanks for taking your time to video and share with everyone,
Jim
That's awesome Jim,
I hope I get to see them when you are done.
Take care and thanks for watching and commenting
Rob
I'm sort of sitting on the fence on this one. In some ways I like it but others just not quite so sure, I nearly made some of the ebonizing solution myself a while ago, but in the end did a Mike and bought the spray can. Great video to watch, thanks for sharing. Oh and I would be the same as you, keep tunring it even with those cracks, nothing lost as long as you try and stay as safe as possible.
Paul,
being on the fence is fine, I was there too with change, but I am happy to be trying new things and getting results like this, granted it isn't for every piece but its good to have a toolbox of knowledge and use it.
Even if it didn't work out, so what, there's lots more wood where that came from..
take care and be creative
Rob
Great job Rob! Can't wait to try this method of ebonizing ! And that is correct, don't see the crack,
Ross
Thanks for watching, I'll be doing a few things with this that's for sure.
Take care
Rob
Hi Rob .Cool looking bowl. I've used iron acetate quite a bit to antique furniture . It works great .I use pickling vinegar . It has a higher acid content . So it breaks the steelwool down faster . The finish looks awesome . Take care.
Glen
Thank you for watching and your comments, I was delighted by the results. A little something different eh!
Take care
Rob
This is a stunning result!!!
I've been re-building a house in Tucson and am planning to ebonize all of the interior wood trim...
Jerry Callender
Sounds great, another option is burning with a blow torch, I’ve used this method to blacken wood and add texture to a piece, obviously has its risks but great results ua-cam.com/video/uioode6WyNA/v-deo.html
Take care
Rob
i would like to see pictures of this!
that is stunning piece !!! when you apply the Ti-wax you blow my mind !!!!! incredible work thanks for sharing !!!
Kostas
Thank you, it's a great product. I was pleased with it too, it turned an ordinary blah bowl into something a little bit different.
Take care man
Rob
Fantastic results with that ebonizing solution. I have some red oak myself that I was a little reluctant to use but that might just change in the future
Glad you liked the resulting look.
all the best
Rob
It's not always necessary to use a obonising solution. A large plastic bag, a small container and and liquid ammonia ca. 35%. Place the oak item in the plastic bag, pore a quarter cup of ammonia into the container and place it into the bag with the oak item and that seal the bag. The ammonia vapour will react with the tannin in the oak and turn it black.
WOW that was really cool. I am definitely going to try it. Thanks.
Kent T.
You should, it was fun and I was surprised at the results
Take care
Rob
Also, get a load of sanding oak dust and ebonise it. Dry it, and shove it into the cracks and CA it. Your cracks will be black instead of a natural oak colour.
Nice work Rob! Looks awesome!
Thanks Heath, im going to try this again only without the crack and apply yorkshire grit prior to the Hampshire sheen ti wax and gloss.
Take care
Rob
Woodslee Summercraft oh that'll look sweet as well Rob! 👌👍
Really nice effect. A Must try. thanks bunches. Really chuffed
you should try it, im going to use this method again
take care
Rob
Great result Rob, i think the Yorkshire Grit took it down to just the right level. Cheers, Jim
Jim
I'm really happy with the results, I'll. e doing it again for sure.
Take care
Rob
Wonderful result Rob!! Really pretty! I've tried making a solution myself before, but it never worked, the wire wool never dissolved. A video I've seen a few days before gave me two pointers, one is to wash the wire wool with water and soap before the process, as it seems the wire wool comes with an oil coating that protects it, and also boiling the pot, like you did. So I'll try that in a couple of days. I do have a lot of Oak (Holms Oak) where I live, so I'm itching to see how it will react to it. Thank again for sharing this video mate!
Yuval.
Yuval
Yes I think I saw those same videos, although vinegar should break down any coating on the wire wool, I simply rinsed the wire wool in water, maybe that helps the rust start, then boiled it over 2 days occasionally, and it worked.
The ti wax though really made it pop though I think. I was amazed at the results, yes vinegar smells, but the final wax coating seals it..
Take care
Rob
Hey, Rob and Yuval. The reaction goes quicker if the steel wool is cleaned, and acetone works better than soap & water. Also, pickling vinegar (10% acetic acid) works better than cooking vinegar (3% acetic acid). The ebonising mix will also last longer if you filter it a couple of times. Rob -- beautiful result. Oak is, I think, underappreciated as a turning wood. Clyde (biochemist in a prior life...)
Clyde Ulmer thanks for watching and your comments and suggestions
Take care
Rob
Nice looking bowl Rob. In answer to one of the other commenters, a tea solution (15-20 teabags + 1qt. water) prior to using the ebonizing solution will help on lighter woods like ash. Use a test sample 1st. ps....Still using the Yorkshire grit and Hampshiresheen products with great results.
RANDY Smith
Great info, I suppose the tannins in the tea solution help the ebonizing solution darken the wood.
I'm glad you are using the Yorkshire grit and Hampshire sheen, and enjoying the results, if you wouldn't mind would you go to my website and see if you can leave any comments about your experience with dealing with me and the products.
Thanks again
Rob
Cool result, looked like fun.
Glen
It certainly was
Cheers
Rob
I always look forward to your videos! I'm gonna have to try that! Lookin' good!
Alaric
Thank you, I appreciate you watching.
Cheers now
Rob
Great result Rob, I must admit my heart was in my mouth when you said you were going to Grit it ;)
Glyn Senior
I know me too, I liked it before and after though. I trust the products 😉
Wow, that’s awesome Rob.
Like the coffee and epoxy as a filler and will try it myself, same with the vinegar and steel wool ;-)
Great stuff Rob, love watching your videos.
All the best from Yorkshire ;-)
Lance
Thanks again, I’ve picked up lots of tips and tricks from different people along the way, ebonizing is certainly an interesting technique
Take care
Rob
I'm not much of a color guy, but I have a couple of bowls that might just fit the ebonizing you just did on that oak bowl. Thanks so much for doing the video.
I'm not a colour guy either, but when I saw Rebbeca Degroot do this, well I had to try.
Take care
Rob
Spectacular results there Rob, a resounding success matey. great work, I'll be trying this combination, no doubts there :)
Cheers
Mike
Thanks mike,
I will be trying it again soon too, The only thing I would change is I wouldn't want to deal with the crack and I would use yorkshire grit before the Ti wax instead of after
Thanks for watching
Rob
Mike
I didn't think much of colouring as i mentioned in my 10 question but you know what they say, "once you go black, you don't go back" 🤣 I really like this ebonized look, a different characteristic or dimension to our work.
Take care
Rob
Turned out great!
Аleksey Bek
Thank you, must admit I was pleasantly surprised myself
Take care
Rob
Awesome! My understanding it’s food safe when you ebonize. What do you think?
Thanks Carlos, I believe most finishes are food safe when fully cured
a little tip for ebonizing oak, you can use ammonia for a beautiful brown color. the stench is horrible but it will wear off in a few days :)
MrPyroninja
So not really ebonized but definitely a change in colour worth trying, thanks.
Take care
Rob
I've been woodworking for a few years now, mostly rustic stuff like building my own headboard for my bed and a storage "thing" for over a toilet. I've realized though, white oak seems to me like it has a slightly more dramatic change when ebonizing than red. Could just be me, but thats what i've noticed.
Altered Existence
Ebonizing oak certainly gives it a new dimension, I like the effect for sure.
Take care
Rob
You can also use Liming wax after ebonizing to really make the open grain pop before you apply a final finish to the piece.
James
Yes that's what I did, although cutting back with Yorkshire grit did take some of that Pop away it gave it a really nice smooth finish, I could perhaps have given it to wax after the YG, bug this is my first time using both the ebonizing solution and the Ti-wax and I'm thrilled with the results.
Take care
Rob
Nice job Rob. Give us a look at the next try when you sort out the order of operations. This bowl is beautiful, but I noticed the Ti-wax faded a bit. A slight change procedure should give a more striking result. I wonder what other woods react to the ebonizing solution? I'll experiment a little and see what happens. Good video, but volume control is still distracting. Like!
lol, turn your volume down ;-)
woods with a higher tannin volume take well to ebonizing, but you can introduce tanins into wood with a tea solution, obviously all will introduce potential chemical or moisture in to the wood but for a decorative item, that is ok,,,,,, i think.... have fun experimenting
Rob
I was speaking of volume of the intro music...much louder than your voice. I do turn down the volume, but then turn it back up to hear your voice. Yours is certainly not the only YT channel with this problem. I don't make videos so I know nothing about the process, it seems to me the there must be a way to balance the volume. Not to worry, I'll still be watching your videos and doing what my wife suggests..."Deal with it!" ;-)
lol, its a technical thing i guess
ill look into it
take care
rob
nice job Rob
Thanks Cuz.
Hopefully you guys get down this way soon, if you see Greg he's got some burl that I'd like to get... 😀
really liked how you saved the bowl
. what type if facemask is the one your using. ty for the great show.
ooh a very late reply, sorry, i now use the RZ mask get one you'll love it
thanks for watching
Rob
Nice project. I don't do it much but ebonizing tannin containing woods is just fascinating.
Would be nice if you could work on the balance between the voice segments and music. If I have the volume so that I can understand you when you switch to the music it is jarring!
Thanks for sharing.
sorry that the music is too loud ill try to remember to alter the volume in my upcoming videos
thanks for watching and your comments.
take care
Rob
Alex Pettigrew p
Hi Rob I great video... I have a question the wax has to be white or any color...
you can use any colour wax that you like
Hi Rob,
Could I use Ti-wax then varnish / lacquer it over ? I Don't suppose you'd know what would happen if I were to apply an Expoy resin clear over the Ti-wax for a high gloss finish ?
i honestly do not know, my thoughts are that it would be ok, i have used shellac based sanding sealer over c wax prior to ti wax, would be a good thing to try it though as many people like an epoxy style gloss finish, personally i prefer a wax finish where it still feels like wood.
take care and let me know if you do try this
Rob
So beautiful!!
Thanks Kat
Great I must try that well done
definitely try it, I really enjoyed this one.
take care
Rob
That's fabulous! It's amazing to me how the finish completely changed, and continued to darken. Would this work on other woods?
my understanding is that it will work with woods that have higher tannin levels, oak being one of them, its worth experimenting with different woods and their reactions. I was surprised at how quickly i got a reaction, so very happy with this result.
take care
Rob
@@WoodsleeSummercraftwoodturning Here in Scotland, horse chestnut reacts well to iron also. It gets blacker with more coats. Best regards
Did the solution raise the grain? I'm curious if you had to sand it before applying the wax and if sanding takes away any of the color? great work.
Aaron, id have to say not significantly, i used yorkshire grit after the ti wax although i probably didnt need to do that, the finished bowl still looks good although the wood was compromised with those cracks.
give it a try it was a lot of fun. the Ti wax really helped make it pop too
take care
Rob
Hi Rob, What exactly does the ti-wax do? I mean besides popping the grain on that piece. What does it do on a un-ebonized piece? I couldn't find too much info on your site about it. The effect on the ebonized piece was great! Kind of reminded me of gilt cream. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Michael,
Ti wax is in fact a finishing wax with the added ingredient of titanium dioxide, which is used widely in the cosmetic industry, basically what it does is highlight the open pours of course grained wood such as oak and ash. You don't have to ebonize a piece to enjoy the added pezzaz!! but I wanted to pop this particular piece with ti wax, as I had not had a chance to use it as yet, or the ebonizing fluid.. which i loved.
I must say I was impressed with the results myself, although in the future I would apply Yorkshire grit PRIOR to ti wax not after. the result is much like gilt cream and the consistency of the product is very pleasing, the waxes result in a tough durable longer lasting finish than most on the market due to the fact that there is no softening bees wax in this line of Hampshire sheen products.
I applied an additional coat of Hampshire sheen high gloss just to give it a finishing coat with a higher shine than the Ti wax.
thanks for watching and I hope this information was helpful, try these products, you wont regret it.
Take care
Rob
Thanks! That was a very helpful answer! I've been thinking about trying the hampshire sheen and yorkshire grit products, just haven't gotten around to placing the order yet. Thanks again for sharing and explaining!
Haha, Rob, you are quick to reply. But forgot to mention the great job you did on hiding the crack. If it is visible, you sure have to look to find it. I know I can't see it. Nice work.
bobjons7
The coffee granules did a great job of disguising it that's for sure, I'm going to do this again I know that, it was fun.
Cheers
looks Great
Ken
Thanks for watching
Rob
Looks good
thank you
Ebonise the cracks before applying any CA or clear filler.
Great Job once again Rob, how do you make the ebonising fluid using the steel wool and white vinegar,Many thanks, Rich ( The Ginger Turner )
Richard Hill
Just double boil it down for a couple of hrs over a couple of days when you can get to it, the wool breaks down
Take care
Rob
Great project Rob, I really liked the way the oak turned out. Where can I purchase the Ti wax in the US? Thanks
Phil
Thanks for watching, if you look in the description on this video there is a link to Jeff at the walnut log studio in Missouri, he is the US retailer of Hampshire sheen, my website is in the description too for all you Canadians out there 😉
Take care
Rob
Amazing Rob - nice work.
Questions - when you put the steel wool in the vinegar, how much did you use for a jar that size, and did you break it up, or just put a wad of the steel wool in? Did the steel wool disintegrate or basically just "rust" and stay the same consistency as when you started?
Thanks
Dennis Beamish Cambridge Ontario
Dennis
I think I'll have to do a video of the process, it wasn't an exact science, but very effective
Thanks for watching
Rob
Great - I will watch for the video.
I am not back in my shop until April (enjoying a Florida winter)
I will monitor your channel.
Thanks again
Dennis
ah, sunshine, enjoy it.
take care
Rob
Great video Rob, please check the music volume thought it's a bit OTT - Cheers
Simon
Thanks for watching and your comments, a couple of guys now have mentioned music volume, I'll have to look into it
Glad you enjoyed this
Take care
Rob
Is that you on the guitar?
No
Are you playing RUSH in the background?
no, its free music from youtube, copyright won't allow music like Rush lol.
thanks for watching
Rob
Here's a pro tip - DO NOT EVER DOUBLE DIP INTO THE MAIN CONTAINER OF IRON SOLUTION WITH THE CLOTH OR BRUSH!!!!!! FFS, you'll contaminate it so it stops working. - decant a small amount into another container like a clean margerine tub or something. - I keep a few for just such times.
Thanks for the caps tip, oddly enough more than 2 years later and the solution left in the jar is still working;-)
i don't use it very often but hey there ya go. thanks for watching
take care
Rob
@11:43 R.I.P. EARS!... JESUS, TRY SOME ENYA OR SOUNDS OF NATURE OR SOME SHIT, WHAT IS THAT?!
Lol you are indeed right
Sorry about that
I actually dont use tunes anymore so youre safe to watch newer videos
Cheers
Rob