I sent out a S4 turbo exhaust sleeve for material testing. The lab used glow discharge spectroscopy to measure the elemental composition. It turned out to be a cast stainless steel alloy, CB30, UNS J91803. CB30 is quite different from Inconel, which is a high nickel content alloy. You don't have to take my word for it though - the testing is relatively inexpensive and there are plenty of labs capable of doing it.
i managed to modify my 6 port sleeves. inconel may be extremely hard, but that also makes it brittle. if you score deep enough at the base of the "wings" ( about half way through) you can then just grab it with pliers and snap it off then smooth it out.
Exactly correct on the shrinking pin after it cools, I would loosen pipe plugs by carefully heating them with a TIG torch being careful not to melt it, let it cool, you could almost unscrew it with your fingers.
I do something similar but without the nut, I build a mushroom head on the pin, and use the back of a hammer and remotas of it was a nail. Back in the day I used to do it with a screw and a hammer but the welding method is faster
I was going to say, you don't want to drill those pins out. Use a welder and weld them out. Steel weld isn't going to stick to aluminum. We do it on LS engines all The time to remove broken exhaust studs. Lol Honestly, I would put a small washer over it and just do a little button weld from that to the washer just to kind of protect the aluminum a little bit. Then put a nine penny nail through the hat of a slide hammer And weld that to the button weld you just made to the pin. Slide hammer it right out. When you're done, cut the nail off right at the weld and use it for the next one.
@@KyleMohanRacing It would be rad to see some information and dyno comparisons from stock port to the KMR half bridge. And perhaps some insight on various porting options in conjunction with IDA style injection setups !!
I am in process of replacing these sleeves for my engine rebuild, and i have the old sleeves out, however when I went to put in some new titanium sleeves that I bought, they have an extra 2mm of material on them that dont allow for the roll pins to go back in. Is there something I'm missing with this, or would these sleeves be wrong for my engine? Thanks
Hey Kyle, qucik question. Will there be a Dyno video for the Hybrid Renesis Engine by time? I'm really really curious what is possible with this build.
@@devultra1125 I talk about the horsepower gains and what is possible. I think I even show a Dyno chart. Yes we definitely will dyno the new build. the old build information is somewhat out there already and has some good numbers. It also won its race class. Thanks for watching 👍
@@KyleMohanRacing I have to thank you! Sharing your experience and Results with us. You make ist possible for me to build my Dream Rotary! Can I ask another question? In your Dyno result, the Torque is falling rapidly at some Point, do you know the reason for it? Is it possible that the Turbo can Not Deliver enough Air into the Chamber to Run the engine properly?
@@KyleMohanRacing Letz Collarate & Build A Hybrid Rx-8 when you get back later this Month ? Let's Run N/A Hybrid + Dyno Test + Video & Sell It As An NFT Build To Fund Turbo Hybrid Rx-8 Build 🥳
I ported my exhaust on the early opening timing , now i'm afraid of exhaust gasses that can go under the sleeve , and curling the sleeve up. Was thinking about heating the sleeve with a torch and bending the tip a bit down. Would that be possible ? I heard you say they are very hard to heat 🤔
If you want you can send a picture to me via my website so I can advise. www.kylemohanracing.com Basically you don't want the leading edge of the sleeve exposed it should be a gradual ramp of aluminum running up to the sleeve.
@@KyleMohanRacing Can't find anywhere on your website to send a photo . It's a gradual slope to the sleeve. But there is always a Gap between the housing and the sleeve. I think it is better if the housing is a bit higher than the sleeve itself. Maybe I'm just over thinking 😅
I have an old skool 13b housing that never had a sleeve. And has alot more meat around the exhaust port. I ran in a jport never had issues because it was NA. My turbo 20b built 20years ago has had the sleeves removed. I have owned it for 17 years and turned the new rebuild engine over every few months with castor oil every 6months still haven't started it . JC Cosmo. Has many modifications. Now i want to pull the motor down and fit sleeves. Two s4 water seal kits and a lot of time.
Yep i see all kinds of combinations. However. On the dyno we made more power with the sleeve. Plus it's an area prone to failure when exposed to heat. The sleeve is up to you. We just talk about what works for us.
Appreciate these videos. Commencing my first engine rebuild soon !
I sent out a S4 turbo exhaust sleeve for material testing. The lab used glow discharge spectroscopy to measure the elemental composition. It turned out to be a cast stainless steel alloy, CB30, UNS J91803. CB30 is quite different from Inconel, which is a high nickel content alloy. You don't have to take my word for it though - the testing is relatively inexpensive and there are plenty of labs capable of doing it.
Awesome info. Thanks. Through the years the sleeves changed quite a bit. be neat to test all the different variations.
this was awesome, thanks Kyle!
i managed to modify my 6 port sleeves. inconel may be extremely hard, but that also makes it brittle. if you score deep enough at the base of the "wings" ( about half way through) you can then just grab it with pliers and snap it off then smooth it out.
Quick and super informative. Nice
Thank you for this informative video!
You're the man Kyle 🙏 thanks for the lesson.
Keep the videos up!
This is amazing.
"One smoking Hot roll pin Welded to a nut "
Lmaooo 🤣🥳
Exactly correct on the shrinking pin after it cools, I would loosen pipe plugs by carefully heating them with a TIG torch being careful not to melt it, let it cool, you could almost unscrew it with your fingers.
🙌
I do something similar but without the nut, I build a mushroom head on the pin, and use the back of a hammer and remotas of it was a nail. Back in the day I used to do it with a screw and a hammer but the welding method is faster
👌 nicely done
Inconel exhaust manifolds would have been awesome (if not a little pricey)
I was going to say, you don't want to drill those pins out. Use a welder and weld them out. Steel weld isn't going to stick to aluminum. We do it on LS engines all The time to remove broken exhaust studs. Lol
Honestly, I would put a small washer over it and just do a little button weld from that to the washer just to kind of protect the aluminum a little bit. Then put a nine penny nail through the hat of a slide hammer And weld that to the button weld you just made to the pin. Slide hammer it right out. When you're done, cut the nail off right at the weld and use it for the next one.
Great !
I wondered about the wing job and what it was for. I'm going to shave those off.
great!
Welding mask , Gloves , Safety Gear 🥳🥳🥳🥳🤣 This Video gets better and Better lol
Great time what about the person who bought an rx8 housing and they want to put those exhaust sleeves in do you have a video of that getting done?
im early again! hi kyle!
Thanks so much
Oh cool I’m here before the rest
Greatly appreciated
well done man!
Let’s see and hear some 6 port FC stuff!
What do you want to see?
@@KyleMohanRacing It would be rad to see some information and dyno comparisons from stock port to the KMR half bridge. And perhaps some insight on various porting options in conjunction with IDA style injection setups !!
I am in process of replacing these sleeves for my engine rebuild, and i have the old sleeves out, however when I went to put in some new titanium sleeves that I bought, they have an extra 2mm of material on them that dont allow for the roll pins to go back in. Is there something I'm missing with this, or would these sleeves be wrong for my engine? Thanks
I call that: ROTARY WIZZARD level.
🙌
Hey Kyle, qucik question. Will there be a Dyno video for the Hybrid Renesis Engine by time? I'm really really curious what is possible with this build.
Have you checked out the other videos. Links in description of the last hybrid video
@@KyleMohanRacing Yeah, but in the video you said it's an old Test and you have no Dyno video.
@@devultra1125 I talk about the horsepower gains and what is possible. I think I even show a Dyno chart. Yes we definitely will dyno the new build. the old build information is somewhat out there already and has some good numbers. It also won its race class. Thanks for watching 👍
@@KyleMohanRacing I have to thank you! Sharing your experience and Results with us. You make ist possible for me to build my Dream Rotary!
Can I ask another question? In your Dyno result, the Torque is falling rapidly at some Point, do you know the reason for it? Is it possible that the Turbo can Not Deliver enough Air into the Chamber to Run the engine properly?
@@KyleMohanRacing Letz Collarate & Build A Hybrid Rx-8 when you get back later this Month ? Let's Run N/A Hybrid + Dyno Test + Video & Sell It As An NFT Build To Fund Turbo Hybrid Rx-8 Build 🥳
So could RX8 housings be machined to take an exhaust sleeve? E.g. create the exhaust port as designed in earlier generation housings
I've never seen it work, just buy an early housing...
Let me know when you want to starting printing them in inconel
How much per sleeve.
I ported my exhaust on the early opening timing , now i'm afraid of exhaust gasses that can go under the sleeve , and curling the sleeve up. Was thinking about heating the sleeve with a torch and bending the tip a bit down. Would that be possible ? I heard you say they are very hard to heat 🤔
If you want you can send a picture to me via my website so I can advise.
www.kylemohanracing.com
Basically you don't want the leading edge of the sleeve exposed it should be a gradual ramp of aluminum running up to the sleeve.
@@KyleMohanRacing Can't find anywhere on your website to send a photo . It's a gradual slope to the sleeve. But there is always a Gap between the housing and the sleeve. I think it is better if the housing is a bit higher than the sleeve itself. Maybe I'm just over thinking 😅
I am new to Rotary engines and want to know if the exhaust sleeves from a 12a and 13b are interchangeable? 12a sleeves look smaller
not interchangable
I have an old skool 13b housing that never had a sleeve. And has alot more meat around the exhaust port. I ran in a jport never had issues because it was NA. My turbo 20b built 20years ago has had the sleeves removed. I have owned it for 17 years and turned the new rebuild engine over every few months with castor oil every 6months still haven't started it . JC Cosmo. Has many modifications. Now i want to pull the motor down and fit sleeves. Two s4 water seal kits and a lot of time.
Yep i see all kinds of combinations. However. On the dyno we made more power with the sleeve. Plus it's an area prone to failure when exposed to heat. The sleeve is up to you. We just talk about what works for us.
Early early 12A
the earliest 12a dosnt even have a sleeve...they run three holes in the housing.
@@davidhusband5022 First Gen that Felix want made didn't and first gen 10A didn't have them until Cosmo came out. Full PP style 👀
@@davidhusband5022 3 holes exhaust is 10A I believe
@@dboys4534 10a and 12a twin dizzy.