Broke out the new airbrush and vent hood I got for X-Mas while this was playing so the timing was perfect. Just doing some base coating while I get used to things.
Both vids on new person perspective are great. I wonder how many new people have airbrush, though. Consider doing a brush only (spray primer) version - a la army painter color prime, wash, dry brush, detail "by hand."
I’ve been asked to do this many times and my response is recommending an air brush. It’s a tool in the tool chest and one I highly recommend but my time for filming is already limited and cutting out one of my primary painting tools would unfortunately make painting tutorials even slower to produce. It’s a solid recommendation just not a video you’re likely to see produced for this channel unfortunately.
@@Thearmedpainter I agree with @mattj1871 on this, but totally understand where you're coming from too. Is there another Battletech painter on UA-cam who doesn't use airbrush that'd you'd recommend for people who are interested in going that route?
@@davidsieh2934 it’s too late for that now, I also unfortunately didn’t get the footage of them as we went. If we do another paint session I’ll try to get close ups during the process.
My issue is that sometimes the poses will leave an elbow or knee that you just can not get with a good spray without overloading adjoining areas with paint. Trying to use masking tape is a long drawn out process that tends to fail due to peeling paint under it, and masking liquid is great but such a chore to use and hard to get a good coverage without getting it everywhere. Id say priming and a base coat is the way to go, hand brush over a good primer or a metallic under coat. Of course there are other concerns like paint types used and what can go over what type of paint. Alot that can go wrong as a new painter. However when it does go right the results have been extraordinary.
With practice this isn’t as big of an issue and the benefits of spraying minis far outweigh the concerns. If I had to hand base coat colors on all of my minis at this point I’d no longer be painting. Air brushing has saved a lot of time (in addition to opening more detailed doors). The older I’ve gotten the more taxed my time has become so finding processes that are faster and yield good results has been important. It’s also why in my tutorials so highlight speed paints via an air brush. It’s so fast for the results.
@@Thearmedpainter I agree on the time aspect, but yeah there definitely is a learning curve with an airbrush. Definitely some tricks that help, like turning the trigger stop on the brush way down so you dont overspray paint. Get close up and all that. But that said, I am coming from gunpla where parts are seperated and larger. Ive only painted 3 force packs and the clan set. And I've stuck mostly to what ive known from doing gunpla. Im not here to argue lol but do appreciate your tutorials and plan to pick up a bit of your style as I do more bt minis and move away from my old habbits. Maybe find a blend.
Happy New Year. I just got into Battletech and trying to paint. This was a chill vid to paint along to. I used your basing technique. I have a question though, do you need to use some kind of fixer to keep the pigments in place on the legs?
I usually spritz them with isopropyl alcohol to help them bind to the plastic and then give them one more swish to bring the powdery look back but over time if the areas are rubbed enough the pigment may wear off.
@shanenice5380 that would be the 55 brothers; griffin, wolverine, shadow Hawk, battlemaster, thunderbolt, goliath, scorpion. From crusher joe; the locust and galleon light tank... a couple of fighters, too iirc.
Maaaaaaaaan, i don't wanna be *that* guy, and please don't take this in an aggressive way because that's not how its meant, simply stating what i thought would be obvious. But the cans are expensive for a reason, almost like when you buy a product specially designed for the process you're using it for it works better than shoehorning a generic product into the same use case. I have nothing against using krylon or rustoleum, and keeps cans around specifically for large projects because of the price difference. But i also don't have an airbrush setup so when i really wanna put effort into a model i'll break out the more expensive hobby sprays. Haven't tried the monument ones yet, though i have an order on the way, and if they're really that good i can finally stop giving my money to 'ol James Verkshop. Same ish price, hopefully same or better quality, but more actual product per can Anywho essay over, TL:DR you quite literally get what you pay for when using a quality product. Keep on keepin' on homey, you're one of very few putting out regular quality battletech painting stuff, and the hobby space sorely needs more 👍
I’ve got a lot of experience with rattle cans. I painted commissions full time for many years as my primary job. When I talk about the crazy prices on them I have a background to back up the opinion. Furthermore the majority of my commissions and a huge portion of my own minis during that time were all primed with Rustoleum and you’d never know. I can show photos of warhammer armies that turned out fantastic where the base primer was just that. The cost of those expensive primers relative to an air brush setup over time is simply insane, it’s why I encourage everyone to grab an air brush, it’ll save a lot of time and money long term. Especially if you’re looking to do more advanced stuff like I attempted to do in this video (but with the new Monument primers in this case). This is where I think these new primers shine, the fine pigment was fantastic and allowed for a great fade and Zenithal prep which is a nice feature if someone doesn’t have an air brush yet. (Though I’d still recommend getting one even with these primers being nice). The average gamer buying $20+ GW primers is probably just basing their whole army a single color in which case the air brush would save them money long term and allow them to prime, base coat and varnish without having to worry about weather or humidity as well.
been painting graffiti for 29 years. if you think ANY can of paint is worth what this "hobby grade" (taxed mids) is priced at youre the one thats confused bro
I only buy cans if there is a color I do not have or the usual jars are out if stock. Decanting a can is the best value tbh. They get the job done as is but from current and recent airbrush sessions. Man. The airbrush puts such a smooth fine coat down, the oaint dries super fast and easy to blend or do gradients or weathering or pre shading. Cant mix colors with the rattle cans either and sometimes a $4 jar in soray can is going to be $20 or so, looking at you tsmiya. Theyre definitely good if you just need a quick batch primed and maybe for a beginner not able to afford an initial airbrush and compressor setup. Main issue is the rate the paint is sprayed out being difficult to control and pretty wasteful. I do agree that a better quality paint will give better results though.
That matte gray primer is on point! I bought a can myself a couple of weeks ago.
The Raven sculpt is one of the absolute best of the Catalyst era.
This was a great video. Just two dudes talking about life and the hobby. Keep doing what you're doing.
Great video. Loved the pointers on painting as yall were going along.
I really like slow content like this.
Tutorials are always awesome, thanks again!
So THAT'S how CGL classifies L, M, and H mechs. Today I learned. ;)
Broke out the new airbrush and vent hood I got for X-Mas while this was playing so the timing was perfect. Just doing some base coating while I get used to things.
Great video.
Both vids on new person perspective are great. I wonder how many new people have airbrush, though. Consider doing a brush only (spray primer) version - a la army painter color prime, wash, dry brush, detail "by hand."
I’ve been asked to do this many times and my response is recommending an air brush. It’s a tool in the tool chest and one I highly recommend but my time for filming is already limited and cutting out one of my primary painting tools would unfortunately make painting tutorials even slower to produce.
It’s a solid recommendation just not a video you’re likely to see produced for this channel unfortunately.
@@Thearmedpainter I agree with @mattj1871 on this, but totally understand where you're coming from too.
Is there another Battletech painter on UA-cam who doesn't use airbrush that'd you'd recommend for people who are interested in going that route?
Can you edit in some closeups of the minis at various stages of the process?
@@davidsieh2934 it’s too late for that now, I also unfortunately didn’t get the footage of them as we went. If we do another paint session I’ll try to get close ups during the process.
My issue is that sometimes the poses will leave an elbow or knee that you just can not get with a good spray without overloading adjoining areas with paint. Trying to use masking tape is a long drawn out process that tends to fail due to peeling paint under it, and masking liquid is great but such a chore to use and hard to get a good coverage without getting it everywhere.
Id say priming and a base coat is the way to go, hand brush over a good primer or a metallic under coat. Of course there are other concerns like paint types used and what can go over what type of paint. Alot that can go wrong as a new painter. However when it does go right the results have been extraordinary.
With practice this isn’t as big of an issue and the benefits of spraying minis far outweigh the concerns. If I had to hand base coat colors on all of my minis at this point I’d no longer be painting. Air brushing has saved a lot of time (in addition to opening more detailed doors). The older I’ve gotten the more taxed my time has become so finding processes that are faster and yield good results has been important. It’s also why in my tutorials so highlight speed paints via an air brush. It’s so fast for the results.
@@Thearmedpainter I agree on the time aspect, but yeah there definitely is a learning curve with an airbrush. Definitely some tricks that help, like turning the trigger stop on the brush way down so you dont overspray paint. Get close up and all that. But that said, I am coming from gunpla where parts are seperated and larger. Ive only painted 3 force packs and the clan set. And I've stuck mostly to what ive known from doing gunpla. Im not here to argue lol but do appreciate your tutorials and plan to pick up a bit of your style as I do more bt minis and move away from my old habbits. Maybe find a blend.
Happy New Year. I just got into Battletech and trying to paint. This was a chill vid to paint along to. I used your basing technique. I have a question though, do you need to use some kind of fixer to keep the pigments in place on the legs?
I usually spritz them with isopropyl alcohol to help them bind to the plastic and then give them one more swish to bring the powdery look back but over time if the areas are rubbed enough the pigment may wear off.
heh. The original Stinger, Wasp, Phoenix hawk, Valkyrie, and Crusader were all based off of the same mecha.
The Veritech/Valkyrie? Gotta make them legally distinct to avoid Harmony Gold, eh? 😂
@philedwards7331 got it in one!
u have fang of the sun and joe crusher
@shanenice5380 that would be the 55 brothers; griffin, wolverine, shadow Hawk, battlemaster, thunderbolt, goliath, scorpion. From crusher joe; the locust and galleon light tank... a couple of fighters, too iirc.
@@gkeaton9755 that's right
Maaaaaaaaan, i don't wanna be *that* guy, and please don't take this in an aggressive way because that's not how its meant, simply stating what i thought would be obvious. But the cans are expensive for a reason, almost like when you buy a product specially designed for the process you're using it for it works better than shoehorning a generic product into the same use case. I have nothing against using krylon or rustoleum, and keeps cans around specifically for large projects because of the price difference. But i also don't have an airbrush setup so when i really wanna put effort into a model i'll break out the more expensive hobby sprays. Haven't tried the monument ones yet, though i have an order on the way, and if they're really that good i can finally stop giving my money to 'ol James Verkshop. Same ish price, hopefully same or better quality, but more actual product per can
Anywho essay over, TL:DR you quite literally get what you pay for when using a quality product.
Keep on keepin' on homey, you're one of very few putting out regular quality battletech painting stuff, and the hobby space sorely needs more 👍
I’ve got a lot of experience with rattle cans. I painted commissions full time for many years as my primary job. When I talk about the crazy prices on them I have a background to back up the opinion. Furthermore the majority of my commissions and a huge portion of my own minis during that time were all primed with Rustoleum and you’d never know. I can show photos of warhammer armies that turned out fantastic where the base primer was just that.
The cost of those expensive primers relative to an air brush setup over time is simply insane, it’s why I encourage everyone to grab an air brush, it’ll save a lot of time and money long term. Especially if you’re looking to do more advanced stuff like I attempted to do in this video (but with the new Monument primers in this case). This is where I think these new primers shine, the fine pigment was fantastic and allowed for a great fade and Zenithal prep which is a nice feature if someone doesn’t have an air brush yet. (Though I’d still recommend getting one even with these primers being nice).
The average gamer buying $20+ GW primers is probably just basing their whole army a single color in which case the air brush would save them money long term and allow them to prime, base coat and varnish without having to worry about weather or humidity as well.
been painting graffiti for 29 years. if you think ANY can of paint is worth what this "hobby grade" (taxed mids) is priced at youre the one thats confused bro
I only buy cans if there is a color I do not have or the usual jars are out if stock. Decanting a can is the best value tbh. They get the job done as is but from current and recent airbrush sessions. Man. The airbrush puts such a smooth fine coat down, the oaint dries super fast and easy to blend or do gradients or weathering or pre shading. Cant mix colors with the rattle cans either and sometimes a $4 jar in soray can is going to be $20 or so, looking at you tsmiya. Theyre definitely good if you just need a quick batch primed and maybe for a beginner not able to afford an initial airbrush and compressor setup. Main issue is the rate the paint is sprayed out being difficult to control and pretty wasteful. I do agree that a better quality paint will give better results though.