Great video thanks Steve, it's helped me a lot. One small point about your diagnostic technique using continuity setting on meter. Your meter is set to buzz at low resistances (possibly 10Ohms or less). However a 900W element has a resistance of about 64 Ohms and a 2Kw element about 29 Ohms, so you should use the meter on ohms. Regards
Yep i agree, I had already tested the elements using ohms, I set it to beep purely for the video to show the difference between continuity and an open (dead) circuit i had with the elements. Glad it helped anyway. 👍
Can I just jump in…..Im a bit confused….all indications are that I have a blown element (boiler doesnt work on low, only works on high). However, Ive got the unit on the bench and the new elements have a resistance of 62.1 The elements in the boiler have a resistance of 60.2……so now Im confused! Do I have a blown element? Continuity test does nothing on old or new elements - I think the resistance test is the only method that works…..and now Im totally confused by my readings!@@awiserbud
Hi having watched your video and after receiving an estimate for£650 to change the elements I decided to buy and change myself (£145) the only really difficult part was removing the old elements as they were jammed in proper! I had to cut one element in half in order to spin it to release. But the new ones slid into position easily Thanks for posting you saved me a small fortune 😁
To make it easier to remove old elements, I cut at the "U" & twisted each half out. The after-market new elements were fine, except they came without the second nut to terminate the wiring lug. The old nuts do not fit - were 3.2mm, new element threaded end is 2.8mm., fine thread. Also used graphite powder on new elements to assist with tight fit. All working fine, hopefully for more than 18 months this time!
Thanks for sharing the vid and great details which helped me get the sequence right for changing mine out. Thermo Technica were great to order the replacements from and came next day deliver which was a bonus. Thanks again for sharing the info too man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Usually when heating elements fail they have swollen(my experience from cooker elements at least) from use meaning they will be tough to remove as they are held in tight by the heat dissipating fins which the heat conducts through, removing without full disassembly and carefully spreading the fins could mean damaging these fins and when fitting the replacement elements they are not snuggly fitted inbetween the fins(hence easier to fit new elements) and heat not fully spreading across to the fins and consequently premature failure of the elements. Just info for others that may contemplate cutting the element 'u' bends to remove elements without full disassembly. Of course elements can just fail without swelling so some may be lucky in removing them easily and fitted new may be OK. Just something to consider for future ref to others interested.
Hi I have watched your video several times now and yes it did help me to fix my problem but my question is how do you open the connector plack to heater elemant wires as I dont want to break anything, just ordered 2 new elements today, and I know i can replace the without opening the block, but I would like to know for any future work, thanks
hi great video, love info. But can you help with the control panels. you have 2, do they interconnect or both connect directly back to the combi separately? thanks
Hi Steve, great video I need to subscribe to it…but I’m hoping that you will be able to help me with an opinion…. Mine has failed with an E41H error but it’s failed on gas and electricity…so it’s not just the elements….the overheat sensor hasn’t tripped, can you point me to a likely source or solution ?
Its just a screw joint, obviously disconnect the gas bottle first and undo the joint with a spanner, i think it was a 13 or 14mm .. you might have to wiggle it to seperate the joint
No trick, they are just push fitted in the special clips on the circuit board, you will need a very thin small screwdriver to push in the holes and release the spring clamp.
Hi Steve - I know this is now an old video but I am changing my elements on my 6E - have you had any issues since you've fitted the elements? I only ask as I am led to understand they need to be crimped into the heat exchanger which would entail a total boiler strip down. I was going to take a chance and install them as per your video. I just would be interested to know if they are still working well and did the new elements just slide in ok? Many thanks Simon
Hi Simon, both heating elements still going strong, I have no idea about crimping them in, I'm pretty sure mine were only slotted in place, but they cant go anywhere once they are in place. Good luck.
Thanks Steve - I did replace both elements today which was very straightforward. Your video gave me the confidence to do this so thanks very much. I have to say the elements I removed hadn't been crimped into the heat exchanger and we have been using them for over 2 years on a very frequent basis so no complaints about longevity. I had just read on a few forums that the elements are supposed to be crimped into the heat exchanger to avoid hot spots but as I now know how to remove the boiler reasonably easily I am less concerned if I have to replace them again. I did have to gently tap out the old elements but was very careful not to use excessive or uneven force and the new ones slotted in with ease. Thanks again for taking the time to upload your video as it was really helpful and saved me a lot of money. All the best, Simon
@@SiHymerB544 nice one simon, yeah it all looks a bit daunting when you look at it the first time, but when you realise how easy it comes out its not a bad job at all, The way i see it is as long as the elements are contacting the fins in the heater casing then the heat will naturally transfer where it needs to get to, and obviously the more contact the better, I reckon if it was crimped in one spot then that spot would be the point of least resistance for the heat to transfer and could end up overheating at that point, I would sooner the heat transferred evenly across the full length of the elements, (thats what my mechanical / engineering side of me thinks anyway. )
Mine came out quite easily but a few people have mentioned their's being tight, possibly fused to the casing or maybe they swelled up when they overheated and burnt out, I guess you could tap them through from the back or maybe cut them in half across the bend at the end allowing you to twist them and pull at the same time.
hi steve changed mine for £150 ( truma £650.00) worked for a couple of months now the problem is E41 H elements tested ok heaters not working any idea ?
E41 is an electric issue, trumas fault list shows thos as a temperature sensor; either air temperature or water temperature, make sure you have plugged the air temp sensor back in properly, this is from the Truma fault code page: electronic blocked: - because the air temperature switch and / or water temperature switch opened during operation. - because the air temperature switch is damaged - due to a short-circuit of the combustion air temperature sensor Good luck.
hi, well i am having trouble with my truma combi boiler. the fault on the control panel reads, ....."operation fault: 230v-power not connected"....... the boiler works on gas fine, everything in the van electric wise works fine, but the boiler just wont work on mains power. i have tried a new power lead to the van and to no avail. now i am absolutely clueless electric wise and i am wondering if this was the start of the problem you are dealing with. i only want to go to a dealer as a last resort, so i hope you get this comment and maybe be able to maybe shine a light on it. thanks and hope to hear from you. cheers
E6H - current for combustion motor is too high There is something in the combustion air motor or the cable harness that is defective causing the combustion air motor to draw too much current. That is trumas description for that code, think you'll need to check the blower and see why its drawing too much current, could be something blocking the fan, worn bearings, dusts etc.
Please let a certified tech work on your unit if you have problems. Preforming any work yourself will void your warranty. Reach out to truma and they will definitely help you out and make it right.
Hello Steve. Are your new elements from Thermo Tecnica still working a year on? Our caravan is a year old and both elements have blown already and I was thinking about buying these non originals from Thermo Tecnica.
Hi Richard, yes both elements still going strong, to be honest we probably only use the caravan a handful of times through the year, but I'm very mindful not to turn the hot water or heating on until i know the system has plenty of water in it, i suspect that may be why the original ones failed (previous owner)
Okay thanks for reply. We have had about 90 nights away during the last year mainly using electric. This January I noticed the caravan wasn't as cosy as last winter so we were supplementing it with gas. I think one of the elements had gone at that point. Last month we were away with the heater on low all night (electric) and at 2.30 am the main EC643 control panel above the door started flickering and beeping, then all the power tripped. I think that may have been when the second element blew.
Great video thanks Steve, it's helped me a lot. One small point about your diagnostic technique using continuity setting on meter. Your meter is set to buzz at low resistances (possibly 10Ohms or less). However a 900W element has a resistance of about 64 Ohms and a 2Kw element about 29 Ohms, so you should use the meter on ohms. Regards
Yep i agree, I had already tested the elements using ohms, I set it to beep purely for the video to show the difference between continuity and an open (dead) circuit i had with the elements. Glad it helped anyway. 👍
Can I just jump in…..Im a bit confused….all indications are that I have a blown element (boiler doesnt work on low, only works on high). However, Ive got the unit on the bench and the new elements have a resistance of 62.1 The elements in the boiler have a resistance of 60.2……so now Im confused! Do I have a blown element? Continuity test does nothing on old or new elements - I think the resistance test is the only method that works…..and now Im totally confused by my readings!@@awiserbud
Thanks for the info I have now completed my replacment thanks mainly to your video
Nice one, glad it helped. 👍
Hi having watched your video and after receiving an estimate for£650 to change the elements I decided to buy and change myself (£145) the only really difficult part was removing the old elements as they were jammed in proper! I had to cut one element in half in order to spin it to release. But the new ones slid into position easily
Thanks for posting you saved me a small fortune 😁
Thanks for your comment, glad it helped and saved you some cash, awesome news,
My "cheaper" elements are still working well by the way. 😃
To make it easier to remove old elements, I cut at the "U" & twisted each half out. The after-market new elements were fine, except they came without the second nut to terminate the wiring lug. The old nuts do not fit - were 3.2mm, new element threaded end is 2.8mm., fine thread. Also used graphite powder on new elements to assist with tight fit. All working fine, hopefully for more than 18 months this time!
Sounds like 5BA and 6BA thread sizes.
Thanks for sharing the vid and great details which helped me get the sequence right for changing mine out. Thermo Technica were great to order the replacements from and came next day deliver which was a bonus. Thanks again for sharing the info too man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it helped.. thanks for the comment.
Usually when heating elements fail they have swollen(my experience from cooker elements at least) from use meaning they will be tough to remove as they are held in tight by the heat dissipating fins which the heat conducts through, removing without full disassembly and carefully spreading the fins could mean damaging these fins and when fitting the replacement elements they are not snuggly fitted inbetween the fins(hence easier to fit new elements) and heat not fully spreading across to the fins and consequently premature failure of the elements. Just info for others that may contemplate cutting the element 'u' bends to remove elements without full disassembly. Of course elements can just fail without swelling so some may be lucky in removing them easily and fitted new may be OK. Just something to consider for future ref to others interested.
Hi I have watched your video several times now and yes it did help me to fix my problem but my question is how do you open the connector plack to heater elemant wires as I dont want to break anything, just ordered 2 new elements today, and I know i can replace the without opening the block, but I would like to know for any future work, thanks
You dont need to open it, the element wires just push into the connector blocks
Hi steve great video im having trouble with fan sounds wore out what sort of anti tamper screws do they use for strip down? Cheers
hi great video, love info. But can you help with the control panels. you have 2, do they interconnect or both connect directly back to the combi separately? thanks
I only have 1 control panel for the combi, the other control panel is for my caravan, (lights, water pump, power etc)
@@awiserbud so with just one control panel (assuming you mean one dial) are you limited to running on gas only and not on 230v electric too?
now realised you have a newer model which has a digital control panel
Hi Steve, great video I need to subscribe to it…but I’m hoping that you will be able to help me with an opinion….
Mine has failed with an E41H error but it’s failed on gas and electricity…so it’s not just the elements….the overheat sensor hasn’t tripped, can you point me to a likely source or solution ?
How did the aftermarket elements compare with the genuine in the end?
Still going strong, haven't used it much over the winter but everything still working as it should.
Hi Steve- how did you disconnect the gas connection to remove the boiler unit? Mine needs to come out for repair! Thanks mate.
Its just a screw joint, obviously disconnect the gas bottle first and undo the joint with a spanner, i think it was a 13 or 14mm .. you might have to wiggle it to seperate the joint
Perfect, thank you buddy.
Have you recorded a video on reassembling the boiler. did you replace any seals, the truma kit seems to include a lot of seals.
I didnt open up the liquid side of the boiler, didn't need to when replacing the heating elements so no need to replace any seals.
Hi how to disconnect the wire of the plug of the element is it a trick thanks
No trick, they are just push fitted in the special clips on the circuit board, you will need a very thin small screwdriver to push in the holes and release the spring clamp.
Hi Steve - I know this is now an old video but I am changing my elements on my 6E - have you had any issues since you've fitted the elements? I only ask as I am led to understand they need to be crimped into the heat exchanger which would entail a total boiler strip down. I was going to take a chance and install them as per your video. I just would be interested to know if they are still working well and did the new elements just slide in ok? Many thanks Simon
Hi Simon, both heating elements still going strong, I have no idea about crimping them in, I'm pretty sure mine were only slotted in place, but they cant go anywhere once they are in place.
Good luck.
Thanks Steve - I did replace both elements today which was very straightforward. Your video gave me the confidence to do this so thanks very much. I have to say the elements I removed hadn't been crimped into the heat exchanger and we have been using them for over 2 years on a very frequent basis so no complaints about longevity. I had just read on a few forums that the elements are supposed to be crimped into the heat exchanger to avoid hot spots but as I now know how to remove the boiler reasonably easily I am less concerned if I have to replace them again. I did have to gently tap out the old elements but was very careful not to use excessive or uneven force and the new ones slotted in with ease. Thanks again for taking the time to upload your video as it was really helpful and saved me a lot of money. All the best, Simon
@@SiHymerB544 nice one simon, yeah it all looks a bit daunting when you look at it the first time, but when you realise how easy it comes out its not a bad job at all,
The way i see it is as long as the elements are contacting the fins in the heater casing then the heat will naturally transfer where it needs to get to, and obviously the more contact the better, I reckon if it was crimped in one spot then that spot would be the point of least resistance for the heat to transfer and could end up overheating at that point, I would sooner the heat transferred evenly across the full length of the elements, (thats what my mechanical / engineering side of me thinks anyway. )
@@awiserbud Yes that makes complete sense - I will see how long they last! 👍
hey Steve do you fancy coming over to Manchester and doing mine
Bit far for me bud, I'm near London.
Cheers for video, just about to do the same job on my heater, how are the after market ones , sound good for the money
They have been in there for a month now, havent used the van much since then but they are working well.
We’re did you get the elements from
Hi Robert, I got them from Thermo Technica, I found them online
@@awiserbud great thanks I will get them on order
They are tight to come out can not move one of them
Mine came out quite easily but a few people have mentioned their's being tight, possibly fused to the casing or maybe they swelled up when they overheated and burnt out, I guess you could tap them through from the back or maybe cut them in half across the bend at the end allowing you to twist them and pull at the same time.
hi steve changed mine for £150 ( truma £650.00) worked for a couple of months now the problem is E41 H elements tested ok heaters not working any idea ?
E41 is an electric issue, trumas fault list shows thos as a temperature sensor; either air temperature or water temperature, make sure you have plugged the air temp sensor back in properly, this is from the Truma fault code page:
electronic blocked:
- because the air temperature switch
and / or water temperature switch opened
during operation.
- because the air temperature switch is
damaged
- due to a short-circuit of the combustion air
temperature sensor
Good luck.
hi, well i am having trouble with my truma combi boiler. the fault on the control panel reads, ....."operation fault: 230v-power not connected"....... the boiler works on gas fine, everything in the van electric wise works fine, but the boiler just wont work on mains power. i have tried a new power lead to the van and to no avail. now i am absolutely clueless electric wise and i am wondering if this was the start of the problem you are dealing with. i only want to go to a dealer as a last resort, so i hope you get this comment and maybe be able to maybe shine a light on it. thanks and hope to hear from you. cheers
E6H error code coming up on my controller. Tries to start up fan runs a bit then cuts out. Throws up E6H Any ideas to cure problem
E6H - current for combustion motor is too high
There is something in the combustion air motor or the cable harness that is defective causing the combustion air motor to draw too much current.
That is trumas description for that code, think you'll need to check the blower and see why its drawing too much current, could be something blocking the fan, worn bearings, dusts etc.
Can I ask where you got your aftermarket elements from please?
Hi Paul, yes I got them from Thermo Technica
Took about 3 or 4 days to arrive.
Please let a certified tech work on your unit if you have problems. Preforming any work yourself will void your warranty. Reach out to truma and they will definitely help you out and make it right.
Hello Steve. Are your new elements from Thermo Tecnica still working a year on? Our caravan is a year old and both elements have blown already and I was thinking about buying these non originals from Thermo Tecnica.
Hi Richard, yes both elements still going strong, to be honest we probably only use the caravan a handful of times through the year, but I'm very mindful not to turn the hot water or heating on until i know the system has plenty of water in it, i suspect that may be why the original ones failed (previous owner)
Okay thanks for reply. We have had about 90 nights away during the last year mainly using electric. This January I noticed the caravan wasn't as cosy as last winter so we were supplementing it with gas. I think one of the elements had gone at that point. Last month we were away with the heater on low all night (electric) and at 2.30 am the main EC643 control panel above the door started flickering and beeping, then all the power tripped. I think that may have been when the second element blew.
Do you have the replacement company number or address please
Thermo Technica