Adam Ondra #38: What is the best body type for climbing?
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2024
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
What is the best body type for climbing? Tall or short? Skinny or muscular?
We dig into this a little bit more and try to answer it in the new episode.
Credits:
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Directed by
LACO KORBEL
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
Archive Footage
POSING PRODUCTIONS
VOJTĚCH LIČKO
JAKUB FABIAN
ADAM ONDRA ARCHIVE
Post Production
ADAM LIGOCKI
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
© 2019 AO Production s.r.o.
#climbing #bodytype #secret #anatomy #sport #apeindex #bouldering #speed #olympics
The difference in his physical appearance between just standing there and flexing on a route is astonishing
NoSox RubyRox basically 0 fat but also not a lot of muscle mass
Most skinny people are like that
@@philipmeisterl i am 100 fat and also not a lot of muscle mass
His hands/fingers are thicc
he looks like such a goober just standing there😂 but when he climbs it’s like wtf
"I wasn't very powerful"
proceeds to climb 9a
Einari Ihalainen definitely not clickbait 9a+ to be specific at age 13 like wtff
Lollll
Technique and finger strength goes a long way
technique ma dude its not just about strengh
Andrew Pedrycz
Age 15, still impresive as fuck, but there is a difference
I've recently started bouldering and I can tell you one thing: Fat with T-Rex arms is not it!
You made my day
funfact: t-rex arms are actually a meter long and could are actually pretty good for grappling
Hey bro hope you've stuck with climbing! You don't have to be the best in the gym to stay healthy and have a great time doing so!
🤣😂🤣 quality
I appreciate the laugh this morning. Keep digging, you’ll figure a way around those issues. Have a great day.
"I did my first 8b+ at the age of 11".... Ok bye
kiros15 😂
IKR! Like wtf!
I cracked as well...right there 🤣🤣
He was a phenom.
Ashima a 9a
“The height is mostly just my long neck,” I was not expecting that. In short...we have our answer.
He can hook his chin in a hold to rest his arms.
exactly my excuse for why I can barely dunk despite being 6'7".
I had a 6'4" friend who used to swear he was taller than me because his shoulders were the same height, and one day I realized that he could reach up almost 5" higher than me.
TLDR: it’s the neck
This made me die 😂
it counts as an extra limb, like an elephant's trunk. footholds, handholds and chin/mouth holds.
Seriously that freak neck, it must weigh a stone. Are there muscles in it that help in body tension? Or if its dead weight then he could have surgery to get half of it removed, then being 5kg lighter he could do a 9c+
It makes onsight easier.
You might be joking, but actually there might be some bio-mechanical advantages to a long and strong neck when climbing. This should be analyzed....because that's what sets Ondra apart from others.
@Ariolimax C. and to build up momentum ;)
Good to know Adam has been yelling on hard moves since he was like, 10
yeah, but he was climbing 8b+ (5.14a) when he was that age
That's the real secret, climbing through puberty is the common denominator.
This was the comment I was looking for lol.
After 8 min.... Yes, I do have a long neck.
we've all been waiting for it
@@Tom-yp7sj he finally admits it
To be fair if you had a normal neck you would score high on the ape index...
Adam ape index: +1
Adam ape index adjusting for neck: +21
In all seriousness, he could have a +10 lmao
Dude has the body of a 5’10-5’11 guy
@@floatyseagull9472 Guy is 5'11, but neck is extra 2'' over normal.
@@gc99289 6'1"
I was worried this video might be depressing (I’m 5’6” with a -3 ape index) but turns out it was inspiring. There really are advantages and disadvantages for so many body types and features, and it’s all about finding ways to work with the body you have. I’ve heard this from other climbers before but it’s great to have another breakdown of the ways this is true from such a knowledgeable source. Thanks for the video!
Don't worry, I'm 5'1, female, with a -.5 ape index. I literally can't fathom how people can have an ape index of +11 like Kai Harada, they must've dragged their arms under their feet 💀
5'1" male here. While obviously there are going to be limitations(I know I'm never going to dunk a basketball), but I've learned not to focus on it in whatever I do. As an offshore commercial fisherman I would spend 15+ hrs a day on my tiptoes which is exhausting but never held me back. On the other hand I spent a few years building & repairing transmission lines w/some steel work mixed in(old electrical towers and cell towers). That was something that my height really hurt me. Steel was fine. Loved it & was quite good. Climbing huge creosote soaked wooden transmission poles was fine until I was up & supported by my spikes & trying to operate gas powered drills w/three+ foot long bits. I would have to get my body nearly horizontal(not cool w/spikes & old wood) just to get enough distance to bring the tip of the bit to the face of the pole. That placed the body of the drill right by my face. They frequently jam w/immense power & you don't want your face anywhere near it. God I hated those drills. In most cases it's all about learning to get the most out of your body type & to know what your limitations are.
@@firstnamelastname6071 I’m 5’6 with a +8in ape index,and I can almost touch my knees standing up straight. I have a weird build
@@firstnamelastname6071 Just wanted to note that Harada's ape is 11 cm, so that's about +4.5". Still a big difference, but not as horrifyingly.
rise up short kings
Wow I was fascinated that you climbed your first 8b+ when you were 11 years old. Really strong. Keep the series going, love these type of climbing videos
So ape index and giraffe index :)
I learned some things about myself.
1. I have good climbing hands
2. Being short isn't so bad. (I'm 5'3")
3. Short limbs aren't so bad, either
4. This is the ideal male body. You may not like it, but this is what peak male performance looks like.
I remember being a bit discouraged from climbing because I’m 5’5, and thought lanky guys would automatically just be better at climbing.
But, I have small strong hands and feet, with nice big thumbs that are good for pinching holds, so, in reality I have more strengths than I thought!
Sadly I don’t have the neck benefit haha
I needed this, thanks. I'm a 5'1 female with a -.5 wing span
Every body type will be better for some types of routes. Maybe short people have better stability and equilibrium, and even more explosiveness because of the lighter load. Girls have better flexibility. IMO, tall people only have an advantage when the holds are far away enough so that short people have to jump whereas tall people can just reach easily.
there is no ideal body
im 192 cm tall with 114kg and doing fine-ish :) Could get few kilograms off tho hehe
For such a skinny guy, his fingers are incredibly thick
wow what hands
From rock climbing
Thicc
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
@Jesse Pinkman
??
He id 186cm tall and weighs 71kg.
He IS skinny.
What is the best neck length for climbing?
His.
Adam's advantage is he can see the holds above the overhang using his long neck.
The longer the better
That’s the comment I’m looking for
If your neck isn't at least half a meter, I don't even know why you'd bother climbing.
This made me feel better about being a short climber. Thanks Adam!
"What's the best body type for climbing?"
Adam: "Yes."
Cringe
@@zarrowthehorse yes
Thank you for bringing so much culture, interest and excitement to the climbing game.
I am 14 and my height is 158 cm
My friends always laugh at me when I put my feet at the same height as my stomach, but now I can tell them that I am not crazy!
Meie B wait im 14 and 1,65! Crazy
Fucking oompa loompa...
@@Carlos-cm5si thank you
Meie B I’ve got stupidly long legs and a smaller upper body so getting my feet up to my stomach is probably near impossible for me
@@Carlos-cm5si
Wow you called a child short you totally got them
Too bad they'll probably end up taller than you goblin.
Rumor has it Adam wears the same size climbing shoes as when he first started climbing
I love how he says his grip strength hasn't increased since he was 7 as he can hang for about the same time.
If the average seven year old weighs about 50 lbs and he could hang for X seconds at that weight he wouldn't be able to hang at the average adult weight of 196 lbs what so ever.
Now that he is an adult and can hang for X seconds at this weight is a giant strength increase compared to before as he is technically 4x stronger.
Yeah technically you're right, but what he's saying is his strength to bodyweight ratio has pretty much stayed at the same level.
Climbers don't care about absolute strength, so there units of strength are normalized to their body weight.
Its also funny because he said he couldn't do the campus board very well before he won the bouldering world championship at 17 but now is a master lol to me that sounds like progress. Maybe his weakness was his arms and not his grip which would be weird considering how well he could boulder lol
@drew13600 That was one of my first thoughts too- but in the end i doubt that he had arm thick fingers with 7 years like he has now....
that really doesn't matter though, relative strength is the name of the game for him
This reminds me of a problem, I did with my dad a while back. The start meant that u had to push yourself into the wall and under a overhang. My dad struggled with it because he was really squashed and couldn't find space to reach with hi arms whereas I am samller so I found it easier to get under that overhang and then move enough to shift my weight and reach the next boulder. This just goes to show that u don't have to be tall and strong and have a wide arm span to do boulders easily and it's about figuring out how to use ur body as an advantage.
Excellent video introducing a complex subject.
A M A Z I N G ! ! !
8b+ with 11 👏
STUNNING!
Very interesting post.
All the best for the future.
Greetings from Salzburg
This video is amazingly informative, thank you for all the work that was put into it, i really learned a lot from it :)
Adam I loved you're video.thank you for the tips..youre climbing has really inspired me.i just climed my first v 9 boulder problem at the climbing gym.please post more Adam! Great job.
7:03 + is the answer everyone is looking for and I love it! I say this alot but now I get to say Adam Ondra said it!
I was shocked at 8b+ at 11 but a few moments later he's topping 9a+ at 15 lol.
How is he still considered human that is just insane
Came here looking for this comment. Mad ting ennit
the first look at those fingers made me physically recoil
Yeah, they are destroyed hahah
Years of climbing will do that
@@SilencedButNotForgotten destroyed... I think you mean improved. If he were making a video game character, he maxed out his neck length and whatever was left went into the fingers.
Keep up the great work Adam! Love from the UK
Best body type: A L L N E C K
These videos are full of useful information and so funny. Like watching Superman explaining he doesn't fly very well
Im always intriged how routesetters find ways to cater for both tall and small people.
But i guess its also a bit like Adam says, find your own way.
Not in my gym then
Enjoyed the video! Thanks for making it Adam :)
I like your evaluation, and honest answers.
Thanks Adam for making me feel better about my negative ape index!
I am the same size as Adam if you remove 3 cm of neck. I only climb 8b. Must be the neck sure!
I like how objective adam is.
I have no words except : best combing video ever! I learnt so much, thank you thank you thank you
It’s all about body type for climbing imo, people say other wise but honestly like, more reach means more results, I’m 6’2 and 17, I have a 4 inch extension on my wingspan “6’6” and went to my local bouldering gym for the first time ever yesterday, to my surprise I did a v8, and I credit it fully to being able to reach holds. Excited to go back in a few days, love this stuff. Edit: I’m 130 pounds and very skinny, I have long limbs and a pretty long pencil neck as well lol, I think I know why I was never good at any other sports
It probably has mostly to do with being 6'2" and 130 lmao, that's medicaly underweight
Of course. Anyone that says otherwise is delusional. It's like saying a 5'3" 120lb is ever going to be able to be a good defensive end compared to someone like JJ Watt who's 6'5" and 288lb. Same with climbing some short overweight person is never going to be able to be remotely as good as someone who's taller and lean.
@@biggibbs4678 lol I know, I’ll be 19 next month and now I’m 150
@@Thedoodahman_ still climbing too hopefully 🙏🏼
I climbed for 6 years and trough videos of adam, alex and magnus im thinking about to try it again bcs i was pretty good at it, like i climbed 7b with 14yrs of age, and my proportions are pretty good i think now with 1.80m tall and 191cm wingspan with 71kg
thank you, that was very informative 👍🏼
I'm 178 in height, and 182 in wing span.
My hands are pretty average in length at 197 mm. (But mildly short in width.)
My weight is at the moment 65.8 kilograms. Some would say I'm skinny, and lack muscle, because I'm skinny, and I lack muscle.
you have wings ? lucky guy
@@doposud Lol
I have a + 2" index. It's really easy for lock offs and big reaches but definitely a disadvantage for other styles.
Another great video! Thank you Adam and to your team. Looking forward to future videos
Adam, it’s off topic, but I really dug your TENDON Rope video. Some great info. The climb at the beginning was clutch. Thank you.
70 -72 kg is still quite light, especially at AO hight.
It is, though people are way too fat. We've gotten used to an average body that is quite fat, which is not very natural or healthy.
@Kavriel .......... true, but Adam is an Ectomorph & is just built thin. Compare him to the legendary John”One Tonne” Dunne. Adam arguably has THE BUILD for today’s Sport Climbing
That’s a BMI of 20.5, right in the normal weight range.
@ Michael K ...... BMI, as it’s been propagated by MetLife, is bullshite. Compare him to another world class athletes Kyle Dake, Freestyle World Champ. IMO Alex Ondra arguably has “a perfect” build for today’s Sport Climbing
@@Mike-oz4cv BMI is BS
Great episode! Thanks!
What's his giraffe index?
+20cm
yes.
Sean McColl, short and very dynamic and Adam Ondra, tall and more static... They're both on the overall lead podium this year 👍 Thers's not ONE perfect body !
I'm 6'0 and my armspan in 6'6. I'm currently hovering 155lbs. Like Ondra said being aware of your strengths and weaknesses is a key to your personal success. I always find myself working on my flexibility on boulders where my long limbs are not optimal ahaha.
He's definitely not a strenght mutant. But his technique and overall mental game is just very superior to the other guys. Genius in terms of climbing IQ. One day there might be a strength mutant with his climbing iq and we'll probably see 10a then.
cheznikos Magnus Mitbo with Adam’s climbing IQ would be quite a force to reckon with.
He's far from his strength limit, he might just need to focus on general climbing strength training
You're so cool and your videos are very interesting ! Hi from France :) Good luck for all your competitions, keep enjoy them !
I starred bouldering 2 months ago, and i really like it, finally my body is perfect for something i like. I weight 72kg, i’m 194 cm in height and my arm span is 205cm.
The last time I was 158 pounds (72 kilos) was about 19 years ago. Now I weigh 190 pounds (86 kilos). Hopefully I can lose 20 pounds or so on this keto diet and improve my climbing.
Very similar here: Right now 90kg, want to go back to 80kg. Age 48, gaining weight started at 40. How old are you?
I'm 84kg rn and the last time I was 72kg was about 16 months ago.
...I started going to the gym then lol.
I ended up here because i'm a rigger and was looking at climbing gear. Now i want to be a fan of a rock climber. God bless everyone
thats what i like about climbing, it doesnt matter what kind of body you have.
Noticed that Adam rushes to the starting holds first - is that a personal ritual?=)
I wonder how climbing at such a young age influenced Ondra's body during the developmental years.
Amazing
My boi Adam finna win gold
Very inspiring conclusion :)
i loved climbing when I was a kid, i could hang by my finger tips no problem, but now i'm wide shouldered and bulky with hands that are definitely not large and my fingers will not take me hanging on them, so my feet stay on the ground these days
Answer: E.T. - The Extra Testicle
01:30
So much meme material.
haha had to laugh so hard when i watched it again
Like 01:29, 01:31 or 01:35
This was one of the most unintentionally funny videos I've seen.
@@jwest8330 loooool
you know sometimes you just got to go for the pinkie
I don't know anything about climbing, but somehow I'm still very skeptical about this video.
While obviously, every body type has its pros and cons, I tend to believe that somebody type would give a bigger advantage on average.
It will be interesting to see the world champions / Olympic games winners in 10-20 years (when the sport will be an Olympic sport for a while) to see if indeed we have a wide diversity of body types among top athletes.
I wonder how Adam Ondra compares to Alex Megos in terms of grip strength, height and just raw power. It would be interesting to see these two climbing together and comparing their techniques for the purpose of a video like this one.
more height = more weight because of the amount of bone in your body. I'm a 6'8 climber. It's basically impossible for me to ever get below 185lbs (84 kilos). 200 lbs (91 kilos) is where I'm at while being incredibly toned down, and at this point still considered underweight.
I can't stop looking at how long his neck is.
Twice as long as standard
I hadn't noticed.
Finally someone sincere about genetic ( but for sure very determined and able to keep working through ALL life, don’t misunderstand me)
Very interesting subject! If you stop training hard, the muscles loose water and you are leighter, hmmm...
I have much bigger hands, now I understand my disandvantage.
I have nearly the same body height and a bit more weight. I have to transfer more weight into muscles.
My wing-span is + 1" but Tomoa Narasaki or Kai Harada has +4", WOW!
.
I wish i had a rock climbing gym in my city or someone to tell me what rock climbing is when i was young...
I am starting climbing at 25.
Not gonna stop now
Just dedicate yourself and have a good time! Lots of life ahead of you. Enjoy the moment and know that you will just get better and better. Going to take care of your nutritional package and hydration. Work on your flexibility as a side gig. Don't climb with your ego. Welcome!
im 6'4 and very skinny, and I agree with this take. Everyone always tells me that when I do a climb it doesnt really count cause im tall, and not many people realize that its often a disadvantage more so than an advantage as if your short you can have more power and jump. But it was inspiring to think about focusing on my strengths/weaknesses and using them to climb better.
Frrr plus being tall isn’t good for when you need to scrunch up on the wall
You don't need to say power to get to a hold if you have the natural reach for it. Taller folk with phenomenal mobility have a decent advantage over someone with really short reach.
@@matt3247this 100%!! tall people definitely have lots of advantages. But they like to complain or say “oh it’s not because I’m tall..” *YES IT IS*
Because I literally see many tall climbers with bad technique still getting hard problems bc they can just reach or jump and skip difficult holds. Like your technique can be shit and it doesn’t matter. If that’s not an advantage, what is🤷🏻♀️
i am 5,4 male with -2 ape. Glad to know that despite that i can still do well
Thanks for a great video!!
I feel like climbing is the perfect "Jedi" Eastern Philosophy type of "sport", where it's as much sport as it is an art or craft. And sure, there are technically competitions even in the arts, but at its core it's not really about competing with anyone but YOURSELF. As such, you don't need to compare your body type to anyone, just focus on your own style and how to improve your climbing every day. The rest comes on its own. It's also very rewarding, because the more work and effort you put in, the better you get, regardless of age or starting conditions.
Excellent video !!!
Jesus Christ, Adam’s finger strength is so insane that his fingers look like a Mickey Mouse glove. That’s some goals
imagine if he slapped you
@@holliswilliams8426 I would literally die
Can you increase your finger thickness from climbing? Has anyone experienced this?
@@conjj17 yes, over time, it’s kinda expected to happen usually
Dakujem
I’m 6ft 8 and 95kg and loved this video 💪💪
I am too heavy to be a climber and I have severe fear of heights... So why I am even watching this? :) The answer is: because it is super interesting video and Adam is an amazing sportsman!
I also have a large head and I thought it’s a major disadvantage, but it can be used for balance.
Hey, it was a good video there. Really interesting, about muscle and how you can benefite frome your own body type. Hope to see other video like this one. I really enjoyed it.
Keep climing and having fun.
I love you so much, keep yelling at the rock for me (:
Strong hands, precise feet and a positive power to weight ratio
I rather have the feeling Adams profits a lot from his low shoulders cause he is able to maintain a really strong core while still being able to have a long reach. He doesn't say anything about this.
I have a 2m Wingspan with 1,84 and endurance is really a factor there. ;)
Grate video! Nice to see Schubert and McColl always in finals: legths really does not matter! 😅
I love how most of the climbers in the photo look really sweet and somewhat nerdy and then u go neck down and they're absolutely ripped.
The finger lengths shown at 1:45 are wrong. My hand is exactly as long as his, 19.5cm, and when I put my hand on the screen, it fits almost exactly from the tip of the middle finger to the wrist. However, my middle finger measures 9cm. The 19.5cm hand lengths bar is not in the same scale as the bars for the fingers either. You can easily masure it yourself. I have no idea why they would put wrong measurements in there and it's not important, but somehow it bothers me enough to have written this comment.
People at the gym complain a lot that I am tall, an so it is easier, and often it is! But sometimes there will be a knee bar that makes the route easy, and my long leg doesn't fit!
6:34 it's gonna be a new meme soon
It already is! :) ("ondrasneck" on IG)
@@antichamaleon4339 couldnt find it🥺
Thanx a lot for this great video! Much luck in Tokio, great master! 👍👏
Interesting video. Thanks
Ape index should be measured from shoulders because the included neck length makes the ape index little worthless.
Which Ondra is a good example of.
what adam says from 01:13 is not totally correct. the thickness of the fingers grows not because of their strenght - as fingers have no muscles. in fact, regular intensive use of the fingers deformes the bones in shape and structure, the bones are bent which makes them appear thicker. so putting a lot of force on your fingers frequently will make your fingers thicker, but if you lose the muscles that control your fingers, your fingers will still stay thick. if you are interested on xray-pictures of these deformation, check the paper "Degenerative Veränderungen der
Fingergelenke bei Sportkletterern" from "Hochholzer & Schöffl" 2009
It is the extra tendons from the hand down the forearm, only 5% have them, meant for climbing.
Stefano at 5'7 128 pounds is a pretty scary weight/height. I'm 5'7 / 5'8 and I climb/excercise 5/6 days a week, eat an extremely healthy diet and don't drink or smoke and it's impossible for me to weigh anything under 145/150 pounds without getting sick or becoming unhealthy. That's nuts.
Good video. This is why I feel like the ape index is measured wrongly. Body height is always a bit misleading because of neck length differing so much. We should actually measure height up to the collar bone.
The neck gives him much better visibility of the upper hand positioning against the rock.
i am literally the same body measurments as you.. 186 and currently a weight of 73kg. Ive never climbed in my life tho xd