Hello, great videos, thank you! I do property maintenance for 2 4-story apartment buildings with underground parking, and we have these Liftmaster Logic 5 openers installed with braking mechanism. One has the older brake I'll call paddle style, while the other opener, recently replaced, came with a newer(?) drum brake. The paddle style works great, while this newer different drum brake style is junk. The brake pads wear down fast, in which the door then resumes its coasting. I understand this drum brake is adjustable, however I can't find any info anywhere (including Liftmaster website) on how to adjust it. I know it is simple, I just want to adjust it properly, without causing other issues if I happen to adjust the wrong bolt/nut. Thanks again!
@@drewmurphy2796 They do not. I'm not entirely sure why not but if I had to guess its because the doors are so big typical break-in techniques are impractical due to the size and weight of large commercial and Industrial doors. There is also the danger of having doors that large come out of track, pop cables off and the potential for damage to the operator should the lock malfunction. Although they do not make a bolt-in lock accessory for commercial & industrial applications with a little imagination you can build your own. I have made a couple for my own commercial doors but I would be hesitant to put them on a customers door given the potential damaged they could cause if misused or if a malfunction occurred.
Given the limited description of work and having no idea what type of door this model H (I assume) operator is connected to I would have to say that you should kill power and disconnect the drive chain prior to performing any mechanical repairs on the operator.
On the logic board, about mid board opposite side of the screw terminals. In line with the timer to close, Mid stop and Max run timer buttons. "Radio" button.
Is there an adjustment for the braking on the door opener. We have a Liftmaster wall mount door opener in our shop with a 20' Door. When we raise the door all the way up it hits the spring / stop lifting sensor and then instead of staying up all the way it will roll down close to a foot.
I would need more information to begin to assist with that. If you need to ask, I would be reluctant to advise as springs are extremely dangerous. Aside from all of the homeowners I have seen that were injured attempting to install or adjust springs there are a few horror stories I’ve heard from professionals getting hurt themselves.
Just to give you a quick update two guys came and reset spring tension to match definitely a job for professional then found the spring clip for the limit switch messed up fix that then they reset the limit switches for full open and full close cost 380 and a $20 tip I’m happy I did not get hurt , thanks again for your help best of luck
Can I change the handing of one of these openers by flipping the sprocket to the other side? I have a model H501L5R and I need a H501L5L. It looks like it will work but I don't know what I don't know....
Yes, you can just swap the drive sprocket from one side to the other. Technically the “L” & “R” refer to the chain hoist handing not the drive handing. Good luck.
@@TheWanderingMoon 208v 3 phase connects the same as 230/240v 3 phase only difference is the 208v will draw a little more amperage due to the lower voltage. Assuming the operators motor is rated for 208v. I've seen mixed opinions on running 230/240v motors on 208v. I run my 230v 3 phase Bridgeport mill, surface grinder, Lathe and hydraulic press on 208v 3 phase power and have done so for several years now without any issues. Keep in mind I'm not running production on them, probably use them two or three times a month for making custom parts and tools. Hope that answers your question.
Can you confirm the output shaft RPM? From the documentation that I have read it is 36 RPM with the H501. My plan is to use this operator with my Janus 2000 12x12 and Janus 2500 14x14 roll up doors. I’ll be using the Janus E/O kit that comes with #41 chain and 72 tooth sprocket. I’m wanting to get the correct sprocket on the output shaft so the door isn’t moving too fast or too slow.
Yes, 36 RPM sounds correct. I’ll double check tomorrow when I get in. 6-12” travel speed is about where you want to be. The slower the better for longevity, less strain on the operator and it’s easier on the curtain (door). The actual door speed will very throughout the cycle because the moment arm/ diameter changes as the door goes up and down. I’ll get back if that 36 RPM is not accurate.
In a garage door application it shouldn’t be lifting any weigh or very little as the door should have a counterbalance mechanism to balance the door. But outside of its intended purpose it could theoretically lift a lot of weight with the right gearing. I would not advise relying on the unit itself to carry ANY loads without some sort of anti-drop safety mechanism built into the system. Whatcha building?
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 the roll up sheet door is 8' tall x 10' wide. I open it with the chain opener. Can't let go! These openers brake is not the output shaft, correct?
Ron Morris if you have the Liftmaster Hoist operator the operator brake is not on the output shaft. Even those sheet doors have springs or should. Sounds like one or both are broken or the spring(s) are out of adjustment. The door shouldn’t rely on a “brake” mechanism to hold open unless it’s a fire door.
Ron Morris I would advise against running a springless door with no anti drop mechanism using an operator. There is zero redundancy, if the operator breaks or the drive chain falls off, the door will drop and whatever is under it will not fair well, neither will the door. And the brake on an operator will wear out over time (less time with increased load) also consider that the brake on an operator is not meant to hold extreme loads it’s more for stopping the door to reverse it faster when the safety is triggered. Heavy doors on operators without brakes will drift a bit after stopping or triggering a safety which increases the time to reverse direction and/or reverses the motor while the door is still traveling the opposite direction. Do not mistake the brake as something that will hold an infinite load. The holding power is pretty limited especially with high usage systems. These operators are really designed to be used on spring’d doors that are in good working order.
The LiftMaster is mounted to the wall by the garage door when the garage door gets to the top ;the electric motor just keeps running and wants to send the door flying it’s nine years old everything‘s in good condition just the controls on the electric opener are not set correctly
Please do a video on how to adjust/set the travel limits using the limit nuts.
Set the limits on commercial operators
Hello, great videos, thank you! I do property maintenance for 2 4-story apartment buildings with underground parking, and we have these Liftmaster Logic 5 openers installed with braking mechanism. One has the older brake I'll call paddle style, while the other opener, recently replaced, came with a newer(?) drum brake. The paddle style works great, while this newer different drum brake style is junk. The brake pads wear down fast, in which the door then resumes its coasting. I understand this drum brake is adjustable, however I can't find any info anywhere (including Liftmaster website) on how to adjust it. I know it is simple, I just want to adjust it properly, without causing other issues if I happen to adjust the wrong bolt/nut. Thanks again!
Can you get those power slide locks for these industrial units? Or only for the residential units?
Residential units only.
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 do they make anything for the industrial side? Seems like it’s a good security measure
@@drewmurphy2796 They do not. I'm not entirely sure why not but if I had to guess its because the doors are so big typical break-in techniques are impractical due to the size and weight of large commercial and Industrial doors. There is also the danger of having doors that large come out of track, pop cables off and the potential for damage to the operator should the lock malfunction. Although they do not make a bolt-in lock accessory for commercial & industrial applications with a little imagination you can build your own. I have made a couple for my own commercial doors but I would be hesitant to put them on a customers door given the potential damaged they could cause if misused or if a malfunction occurred.
Would i be able to service belt and bearing without affecting the chain or spring while its locked into place?
Given the limited description of work and having no idea what type of door this model H (I assume) operator is connected to I would have to say that you should kill power and disconnect the drive chain prior to performing any mechanical repairs on the operator.
Where is the learn button on this unit for programming additional remote openers?
On the logic board, about mid board opposite side of the screw terminals. In line with the timer to close, Mid stop and Max run timer buttons. "Radio" button.
Is there an adjustment for the braking on the door opener. We have a Liftmaster wall mount door opener in our shop with a 20' Door. When we raise the door all the way up it hits the spring / stop lifting sensor and then instead of staying up all the way it will roll down close to a foot.
Yes, the brake mechanism is adjustable.
How do I set up the spring tension that is connected to the shaft that connects to the liftMaster motor
I would need more information to begin to assist with that. If you need to ask, I would be reluctant to advise as springs are extremely dangerous. Aside from all of the homeowners I have seen that were injured attempting to install or adjust springs there are a few horror stories I’ve heard from professionals getting hurt themselves.
Thanks I found a a certified liftMaster repair man 30 minutes away I’ll give him a call thanks for the advice you probably saved my life
Just to give you a quick update two guys came and reset spring tension to match definitely a job for professional then found the spring clip for the limit switch messed up fix that then they reset the limit switches for full open and full close cost 380 and a $20 tip I’m happy I did not get hurt , thanks again for your help best of luck
Can I change the handing of one of these openers by flipping the sprocket to the other side? I have a model H501L5R and I need a H501L5L. It looks like it will work but I don't know what I don't know....
Yes, you can just swap the drive sprocket from one side to the other. Technically the “L” & “R” refer to the chain hoist handing not the drive handing. Good luck.
Could you please explain the differences between hooking these up to 230/240v vs 208v?
Single phase or 3 phase power ?
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 3 phase
@@TheWanderingMoon 208v 3 phase connects the same as 230/240v 3 phase only difference is the 208v will draw a little more amperage due to the lower voltage. Assuming the operators motor is rated for 208v. I've seen mixed opinions on running 230/240v motors on 208v. I run my 230v 3 phase Bridgeport mill, surface grinder, Lathe and hydraulic press on 208v 3 phase power and have done so for several years now without any issues. Keep in mind I'm not running production on them, probably use them two or three times a month for making custom parts and tools. Hope that answers your question.
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 thank you! That's just what I needed to know.
Is this suitable for double slate 5 m x 2.2 m garage size ? Or i need a stronger one?
What gauge steel ? Polystyrene or Urethane insulation ? What HP and what voltage ? What is the application & how much usage?
Do these operators need a neutral wire when installing these with 230v wiring? Thanks.
No neutral required for 230v, just an earth ground and make sure you have the harness plugged into the 230v plug on the power board.
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 Thanks!
Can you confirm the output shaft RPM? From the documentation that I have read it is 36 RPM with the H501. My plan is to use this operator with my Janus 2000 12x12 and Janus 2500 14x14 roll up doors. I’ll be using the Janus E/O kit that comes with #41 chain and 72 tooth sprocket. I’m wanting to get the correct sprocket on the output shaft so the door isn’t moving too fast or too slow.
Yes, 36 RPM sounds correct. I’ll double check tomorrow when I get in. 6-12” travel speed is about where you want to be. The slower the better for longevity, less strain on the operator and it’s easier on the curtain (door). The actual door speed will very throughout the cycle because the moment arm/ diameter changes as the door goes up and down. I’ll get back if that 36 RPM is not accurate.
How many pounds can it lift?
In a garage door application it shouldn’t be lifting any weigh or very little as the door should have a counterbalance mechanism to balance the door. But outside of its intended purpose it could theoretically lift a lot of weight with the right gearing. I would not advise relying on the unit itself to carry ANY loads without some sort of anti-drop safety mechanism built into the system. Whatcha building?
@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 the roll up sheet door is 8' tall x 10' wide. I open it with the chain opener. Can't let go! These openers brake is not the output shaft, correct?
Ron Morris if you have the Liftmaster Hoist operator the operator brake is not on the output shaft. Even those sheet doors have springs or should. Sounds like one or both are broken or the spring(s) are out of adjustment. The door shouldn’t rely on a “brake” mechanism to hold open unless it’s a fire door.
I ordered them without springs! If the spring broke they are coming down.
Ron Morris I would advise against running a springless door with no anti drop mechanism using an operator. There is zero redundancy, if the operator breaks or the drive chain falls off, the door will drop and whatever is under it will not fair well, neither will the door. And the brake on an operator will wear out over time (less time with increased load) also consider that the brake on an operator is not meant to hold extreme loads it’s more for stopping the door to reverse it faster when the safety is triggered. Heavy doors on operators without brakes will drift a bit after stopping or triggering a safety which increases the time to reverse direction and/or reverses the motor while the door is still traveling the opposite direction. Do not mistake the brake as something that will hold an infinite load. The holding power is pretty limited especially with high usage systems. These operators are really designed to be used on spring’d doors that are in good working order.
My door goes up and want to just keep going
Can you elaborate? The door should stop when it runs out of cable. Is it high-lift track? Are the springs wrong? Is this a recent issue?
The LiftMaster is mounted to the wall by the garage door when the garage door gets to the top ;the electric motor just keeps running and wants to send the door flying it’s nine years old everything‘s in good condition just the controls on the electric opener are not set correctly
I would start by testing or replacing the open limit switch and checking all related connections. If that’s not it then check relay(s) and board.