This is what I'd rather have in my place the GOOD old bakelite pull-outssafer than breakers . Thank you very much for showing, also screwing a bulb into fuse socket to check for shorts on the circuit. ..
Great video, thanks for showing the back of the fuse panel! That made it very easy to see how each phase is physically distributed to the different circuits. Thanks!
Sorry - in previous post I thought we were looking for the round fuses -no we are looking for the actual box - and as you explained - they are sold no where. We are now talking with a contractor who thinks there may be one in a house that is being demolished. thx for your video - it is very helpful for those of us who r trying to learn.
I don't know your specifics, but, generally, the fuse box "Main" fuses are 60 Amp, and the "Range" fuses can accept up to 60 Amp fuses. Range wiring in those older installations usually was rated at 40 Amps and should have that fuse rating.
My fuse box has 8 screw in fusses.I have replaced them all and still have no electricity in bdroom and bathroom..Have never replaced fuses from MAIN or Range areas..Can I tell if One needs replacing just by looking at it or do I need a special device such as u have here? and could this be the cause of just the 2 rooms lacking elec?
Shana Lance does your range work if so it means that both main fuses are good and that sould mean that all 8 fuses are getting power if they are all good it means there is a problem in the fuse holders or some were along the line there is a breake in the curcuit best thing to do is call a pro
As I indicated in the video, each main fuse feeds 2 small fuses, and 1 range fuse. If 1 of your fuses is heavily loaded, YES, the other fuses will share the remaining load.
Generally, it is best to find a fuse box of the same brand & type to obtain a socket. Some contractors save these boxes for parts and pullouts. They are not sold as replacement parts anywhere that I know of.
"Properly sized" fuses offer swifter protection during a fault. Fuses are prone to tampering, and many insurance companies refuse to insure homes with fuse boxes. Most fuse boxes had no spare room for additional circuits, upon installation. Circuit breakers are easier for the average consumer, and employee to operate
Each instance is different. Generally, the 100 Amp fuse panels had more fuse holders. MOST of the fuses should be 15 Amp, with 20 Amp for Kitchens and Laundry. Fuse Values are determined by wire size, to protect them from overheating. 14 Gage is rated for 15 Amps and 12 Gage is rated for 20 Amps.
Many 100 amp fuse panels are also split bus. There is no single main set of 100 amp fuses. Instead there the Main and Range blocks are fed independently from the line. The Main pullout with 60 amp fuses feeding all the plug fuses and subfeed terminals, and the 40 amp range pullout supplied power to the range or another 240 volt appliance or subpanel. Pulling the 60 amp main still left the Range pullout with power. It can be confusing because these have the appearance of a 60 amp panel.
@@ulisesquintero1219 sorry 5 months late, yes, in some ways, fuses ARE a bit safer than breakers, reason being, a fuse WILL ALWAYS BE GUARANTEED TO BLOW and cut power in the event of a problem on the circuit. On the other hand, circuit breakers, especially some of the older brands that are no longer manufactured (Federal Pacific Electric aka Stab Lock and Zinsco ) were very notorious for breakers that failed to trip off when necessary, many fires had been started. Not so much of an issue with modern breakers made by a well known and reputable company. The biggest issue with fuse panels, and why they got a bad reputation for being unsafe, was purely human error. For starters, most fuse panels were rated 60 amp total, which is insufficient by today's standards. Many times in older homes were typically wired with very few outlets per room, and 14 guage wire 15 amp circuits. It was all too easy and tempting to solve a fuse blowing problem by using a higher amp fuse. Another old school and dangerous situation happens when a fuse blows, and the homeowner has no replacements available. They unscrew the blown fuse, shove a penny in the socket and screw the blown fuse back in, effectively removing all protection and turning the house wiring into a fuse. Note that while they did manufactured larger 100 amp or higher fuse panels, they were very seldom used because by the time 100 amp service become common in the early 1960s, breaker boxes were becoming common place.
@@Sparky-ww5re No. A fuse doesn't always blow and cut power in the event of a problem with the circuit. Chinese automotive fuses are notorious for not blowing when they should, and Harbor Freight had a recall on fuse kits they sold. Had fuse panels like this continued in production, you can bet that China would be making glass and cartridge fuses with fake UL labels that don't blow.
Cartridge fuses generally do not have visual indicators as to whether they are "blown", or not. It would seem unlikely that a MAIN fuse would be blown. There are 2 types of screw-in fuses: Edison base (light bulb type base) & Type "S". Type "S" fuses have porcelain bases, with each value having different threads. 15 Amp, 20 Amp & 30 Amp fuses each have threads that are non-interchangeable with each other. The bottom of the fuse holder would indicate the appropriate fuse size. Are you sure that the fuse you installed is good? The only sure way to test a fuse is to use an Ohm meter, or a continuity light.
The size of fuse you install is based on the wire that it protects. GENERALLY, 14 AWG is 15 Amp, 12 AWG is 20 Amp, and 10 AWG is 30Amp. The Maximum rating has nothing to do with which size fuse to install.
You can increase fuse size on motor loads. Some times an air compressor drawing 14 to 15 amps will often blow a 20 amp fuse so you can increase it to 25 or even 30 amps while using #13 gauge copper wire.
Great video. I have a 60 amp box made by Homart that is almost identical with only a couple minor differences. The left main feed powers the far right range and the right main feed powers the left range. I’m hooking up 6/3 wire to the Range block to power a 30amp sub panel. With the “Main” pull-out in place, the 6/3 connected to the “range”terminals is hot with the “ range” pull-out fuse block removed. Is this normal? I was hoping to be able to work on that new 220v “Range” circuit by removing the “Range” fuse block so I can have the rest of the power on with only the “range” disconnected. Thanks.
It would appear that the “range block” is killed when the main block is pulled per the schematic as well as the reverse view of the main fuse housing. Interestingly the cartridge fuses here appear to both be 50’s while three of the screw in fuses are 15’s and one is a 20. Based upon those numbers it would appear that the 3 15’s (45) plus the 20 exceed the amperage rating of this box by 5 amps. Moreover that similarly exceeds the individual cartridge fuses by 15 amps. I have a similar box of later construction which is rated to 100 amps. My question pertains to the cartridge fuses based upon the fact that the 4 are marked as accepting 31-60. It appears that someone placed 4 60’s in the box and also put 4 30 amp screw in fuses in which clearly exceeds the safe amperage. To make matters worse a great deal of the original wiring in the building (now zoned as a “shed” instead of a residence) appears to be 14 gauge wire (how the place didn’t burn down is beyond me actually). Anyway my question is whether the main fuses running from the “range” are permitted to be 50’s or whether this is similarly limited by the screw in fuse totals which if they were all 15 amp would only permit two 40 amp cartridge fuses in the range block.
The MAIN kills the entire box. Adding up fuse sizes won't work. Fuses protect the wires based on sizes and insulation type. Old Range fuses were usually 40 Amps. The box is 240 Volts, you are adding up 120 Volt Fuse sizes.
What does a "block for a range" mean? For an oven or for what purpose? The name is what's confusing as to what it does. My ignorance though. Came here to figure out if MAIN or range boxes fuses are working. How to replace whatever part could be replace IF it's that.
They have not been made for decades. Your only chance is to contact electrical contractors to see if anybody has saved them when services were changed. From time to time, I've sold them over the internet.
Hey! Kind of curious here... There's certain rooms in my house that don't work and has the same 60 amp fuse box shown above. Why would there be power in one side of the house and not power in the other side? Much appreciation for help and info
There at least a few possibilities to explore. One, or more, small fuse could be bad, or a MAIN fuse could be bad. To check a main fuse, you could pull out the main fuse block, and swap the left fuse for the right fuse and vice versa. If the part of the house that wasn't working is now working, you should just replace both cartridge fuses with "Time Delay" fuses. If that doesn't help, try replacing existing plug fuses with new ones of the same value.
Great video, I recently purchased a home and this exact fuse box seems to be connected to a modern breaker panel in the basement. Does this ensure a better assurance incase of a fault? Also i have some really old bx metal jacket cable running in the attic that doesnt have a grounding strip. Could an electrician run 14/2 romex to this fuse box? Im assuming the ground would be connected on the top, neutral on the bottom and my hot on one of the 15 amp fuses.
I have one of these in my vacation home. All 4 of my fuses are in use. I need to add another circuit. Could I attach 12/2 gauge (20 Amp house wire) to a “feeder tap” and run that line to an auxiliary fuse holder with a 15amp fuse in it(bussmann) in order to create another circuit? Great video, you really helped me understand how my electrical system works.
I had a 60 amp panel like this, but mine had six screw in fuses. I needed a couple more circuits, and what I did was add a small subpanel for six circuits off this panel. I fed the subpanel from the Range pullout block, using 8/3 wire and 40 amp cartridge fuses. You could also probably feed this panel from the feeder tap lugs if the Range block is in use, or your panel doesn't have a range block, some don't.
can I safely replace a phenolic insulator ring? the one beneath a 20 amp fuse broke. in addition to the fuses there is a "block" with two of the old cardboard tube style fuses that I was told would turn off all electricity in the house if I "pull it", which was the case.
I have same looking fuse box fuse box keep blowing the 3rd fuse .. This happened after power came back on from power outage .. I turned off everything when power came back on next day the 3rd SD fuse keep blowing out every one i put in blows now.. What's wrong?
zylahboow The fuse is trying to tell you there is a problem with the circuit. I would turn off all switches on that circuit & unplug all devices on that circuit. Put in a new fuse and if it holds, turn on 1 switch at a time. If everything works, you know it was something plugged into an outlet. Plug in one device at a time.
I'm no electrician so I hope you can follow me here. I have a 60a fuse box just like that but my has the two fuses added on underneath the four. So 6 circuits plus the range. This is what I don't understand. It's a 60a box but two legs of 120 come in each leg has a 60a fuse to me that looks like I have 120a total coming in. I know that's not right but why is it not looked at in that manner? On top of that we jump over to the range side. There I have two 40a fuses which go to a dryer. I'll wait before I bring up my electric hot water heater. I'm just wanting to understand where I'm going wrong lol
Fuses limit the FLOW, not anything else. If an elevator says "Capacity 20 Persons" and you are the only one in it, are you 20 persons?, NO, it just limits the capacity. The fuse box has 60 Amps MAXIMUM, how you the usage is divided up depends on the loads.
@@sparkyjohnrg glad to get a reply back I didn't notice until after I ask the question that the video was 10yrs old. Anyway thanks for the answer now it makes more sense. This isn't a really a question unless you have ran into it before and have some insight on it. I live in the house I grew up in my dad bought it in 65 when I was a year old and the deed/title says the house was built in 52 or 54. However the fuse panel is has a manufacture date on it of 1956. It a 60a panel with 6 circuits and a range circuit that is used for our dryer. Just beside it there is a smaller panel that has an old double pole breaker that has 20a on it that goes to my electric hot water heater. It has never tripped but I have switched it off before to change out the water heater. I recently figured out there is no way to switch off the power going into the breaker. The main wires don't come from the main panel. I can pull the main and the range fuses and the wires going into the too of the smaller box are still hot. The ground is the only wire coming in from the main panel. One person told me at one point back in the day the power company would install a 2nd meter and charge a lesser rate for power if you would install a electric water heater. That may have been the case but I never known this house to have another meter and we've always had an electric water heater. The only thing I can think of is that it had two meters at one time but when the 2nd meter was removed the wires running to it were moved to the original meter base. As far as I know that goes against code you're not supposed to have two sets of service lines running from one meter I was told. However the power company would have had to be the ones that connected it that way if they removed the 2nd meter base. I've seen almost all of the service line during my time here because it runs through the wall of a closet from the meter base to the main panel instead of the attic. The main panel inside is a straight 6-8' distance in line with the meter base on the outside of the house. It's been this way for almost 58yrs. I don't recall seeing a splice in the wires when I replaced the sheetrock in the closet yrs ago but I don't remember how many wires that were run either because at that time I thought the main fuses killed the power to it. The only way I can be for sure is to remove a piece of sheetrock close to the outside wall where the meter is. I do have one question is there a way I can tell what amps the meter base is rated at ? Sorry so long and thanks again.
@@LH-kz2nf Since you have a 60 Amp service, It is likely that the wires feeding the subpanel were tapped to the line side of the fuse box. You can determine this by CAREFULLY removing the fuse box cover. If the wires going to the breaker box are under the same terminals as the wires going in, you have your answer.
So my place does not have a electric range. I have a new dryer that does not work when plugged in, but I know it works cause I have tested it. Could my main fuse be bad?
ihave this box. the two hot leads run from house to garage with a ground. if i want to connect a 100 amp sub panel in the garage do i connect the grounds and nuterals on the same bus bar?3 wires from house 60 amp to garage 60 amp.i am going to run 12/2 with ground in garage. hope you know what im asking
if I pull the main fuse block then will that stop current to fuses? If so, with main block pulled I am safe to wire circuits to the fuses? Thanks for your video.
i have one of these boxes with just two screw in fuses and no block, just a lever. i keep blowing a fuse on it and can't seem to find out why, only thing hooked up to it is the pressure switch for my well
Are you using a Time Delay (Dual Element) fuse? Motors consume 6 to 10 times running current when starting. This can cause a single element fuse to blow instantly.
I would like to replace this antique type box with a new circuit breaker box. what is out there that I could replace this one with? I have found a 100 amp service box but will I have to change the incoming hot wire? Any help or info would be appreciated.
+Ted Dodgin Ted, In many areas of the country, electrical wiring is a regulated activity. In MOST cases, the entire service should be upgraded. This means the wiring out to where it meets the utility connection, meter socket, and updated grounding. This is beyond the ken of most homeowners, and is dangerous. Leave this to a licensed contractor, and find another area to save money.
I also have an old Wadsworth fuse box with 4 20 amp round fuses underneath. We are now missing one and can't find a replacement. Do I have to replace the entire box??
Question: I have an old panel, with fuses. One of the components is a 240V block (with handle, that carries the other type fuses, inserted into a box) that is removable, for the Range (now gas). I want to install - instead - 2 X 15A, 120V fuse HOLDERS (two fuses each). I can get a box full of them (10 holders, for 20 fuses), but the question is: would I require ALSO something to ATTACH those 2 fuse holders to, to the box opening, once I remove the box block that has the handle? I hope I made my self understand. Thank you.
You don't state anything about the fuse box you have, So I will assume that it is similar to the one shown in my video - 2 fusible pullouts and 4 round plug fuses. The RANGE pullout is sized to accept up to 60 Amp fuses. You can insert smaller cartridge fuses by buying "fuse reducers".
@@ulisesquintero1219 The round "Edison Base" fuses (same base as a light bulb) can be replaced with "mini-Breakers" that can be rest like circuit breakers.
@@sparkyjohnrg but is not problem right if I put mini breakers like the same amp like 15 and 20 I have 6 total on house and I have the old panel 60 amp is ok if I change it right??
+MrScottie68 I have a bad socket in an old 60 amp fuse box. Would the one you have fit mine? is it hard to change out? I have a picture, but don't know how to post it here?
+Matt Nale I do not know which sockets would be interchangeable between brands. My suggestion would be to contact a local electrical contractor, and ask if they have any old fuses of the same brand as yours. Remember, the bad socket may be the problem, or the symptom of a larger problem. You do not know if the connections behind the socket are good or failing. Few items last as long as electrical fuse, or breaker boxes. You may be due for a change.
so i have a fuse box very similar to this is it hard to just switch out the fuse box for a circuit breaker and is there anything i have to do before hand
Is it a panel like this? You would either have to add a subpanel off of the subfeed tap lugs. If you have a gas range, and the Range pullout is not being used you can use this pullout to run a 220 volt circuit.
The problem may not be at the fuse box. you may have a loose connection somewhere else in the circuit, and it could be either wire. I am reluctant to give instructions, as I do not know the capabilities of the person receiving them, and I don't want anyone to get hurt.
If you have a GFCI outlet (test and reset buttons on it) in your bathroom, it's possible that your bedroom was fed off the bathroom circuit, and if the GFCI tripped and blew your fuses, it would cut off anything else on that circuit. My house is from 1953 and a breaker panel has been retrofitted in the 1980's, but it still has the same wiring layout that was run in the 50's. When the GFCI in the bathroom trips and kills the power, so do the adjacent bedrooms.
GFCI outlets have both LINE & LOAD terminals. The LOAD terminals protect everything beyond the outlet (like your bedrooms). Are there other outlets that require GFCI protection beyond that outlet? If not, turning off the power and moving the wires from the LOAD to the LINE terminals will change that for you.
my paents have wadswort put in 1970 it has 8 screw fuses 4 pullouts i belive main only kills 8 screw fuses and each pullout is its own are you familier with wadsworth
The Main Pullout usually kills the whole box. There is a wiring diagram included in each box, or inside each cover that should show how the box is wired.
These fuse boxes have not been made in a very long time. See if a local electrical contractor has any. Small contractors are more likely to save old items, than a large contractor. You can also look on E-Bay. If you are trying to find parts for your box, you must know which brand, as they are NOT interchangeable!
+Cody Farmer I presume that you mean you want to test the fuses. Removing the fuse, or fuse block, stops the flow of electricity for that circuit. I do not feel it is necessary to remove the MAIN pullout to de-energize the fuse box.
No, you do not have to turn off the main power to change a fuse, but it would be a good idea for safety. My great grandmother's fuse panel developed a frayed wire inside the panel that was unknown. What happened was that wire ended up making the fuse sockets electrically live. Of course fuses have metal housings on them, and when you held that fuse in your fingers and went to screw it into the socket, you got quite a bite as the current went through the fuse's shell and through your fingers. It didn't happen with glass fuses, only the metal ones.
18 gauge wire you need 10 amp 16 gauge eire you need 13 amp 14 gauge wire you need 15 amp 12 gauge wire you need 20 amp 10 gauge wire you need 30 amp 8 gauge wire you need 40 amp 6 gauge wire you need 50 amp 4 gauge wire you need 60 or 70 amp 2 gauge wire you need 90 amp
+charlie Hoss I would say that in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area, that range would be: post World War 2 through the 1970's. Even though circuit breakers were available, fuse boxes were cheaper.
They are no longer made. You would have to know the brand of box and whether you need the MAIN or Range Pullout. You could try calling electrical contractors in your area to see if any of them kept them as the boxes were changed to circuit breakers.
Breakers have problems too. Easy for someone to switch to a larger capacity breaker. They have many moving parts, which makes them MUCH MORE unreliable than a properly sized fuse.. if a homeowner doesn't investigate the cause of the breaker tripping, and repeatedly resets the breaker, it can start nuisance tripping at a much lower amperage than it's rating. Worse, the worn parts can HANG, and NOT trip, in response to an overload, and cause a fire or damage equipment. The restriction bases prevented people from putting in over-rated fuses. But people are ignorant, and stuff in foil. So the government mandated inferior protection. - "fool proof". So people like me, in engineering for 39 years, have to pay the insurance company a premium to keep my superior protection.
+Joni Mire I have no idea as to the exact date of manufacture. They were made for many years, even after circuit breaker boxes were available, because they were CHEAP.
The Main & Range Blocks were NOT interchangeable. The Various brands were Not interchangeable. Yu have to know which brand you are looking for. You can call local electrical contractors to see if they may have saved a few when they upgraded services. I have a few of the WADSWORTH brand blocks.
I have been looking for the diagram of my old panel, Cuttler-Hammer catalog No. 4334423o 4334H23 (label is hard to read) I truly appreciate a copy if you have it?Tessa
@@sparkyjohnrg the 15 amp screw in's are time delay all four but the ones behind the block blow one out of four the cherry bomb looking fuses. shouldn't the screw in ones blow before the mains? The block was hot and the fuse could have burned me it was so hot. i need to upgrade the system and rewire it because i can't run the stove microwave kitchen lights dishwasher at the same time it eventually blows the fuse with in a year. also on a 60 amp what should the main four fuses behind the block be thanks
@@bobdimartino6738 The Fusible Pull-out should have Time Delay Fuses to override start-up inrush current. The Range can be a rather large load, depending on how many burners / Oven are in use. Don't fail to consider the connections behind the surface are failing. As connections deteriorate, there is increased resistance manifesting as heat. You said the cartridge fuses were almost hot enough to burn you. That electrical system was installed before some of the modern appliances were available.
This is what I'd rather have in my place the GOOD old bakelite
pull-outssafer than breakers . Thank you very much for showing,
also screwing a bulb into fuse socket to check for shorts on the
circuit. ..
Great video, thanks for showing the back of the fuse panel! That made it very easy to see how each phase is physically distributed to the different circuits. Thanks!
By far.....the best video explanation & walk thru on UA-cam🔥💯🔥
Sorry - in previous post I thought we were looking for the round fuses -no we are looking for the actual box - and as you explained - they are sold no where. We are now talking with a contractor who thinks there may be one in a house that is being demolished. thx for your video - it is very helpful for those of us who r trying to learn.
Thanks. You covered it all very well. Just what I needed in hooking up an inductive wireless 220 volt charger in our garage for our Chevy Volt.
I don't know your specifics, but, generally, the fuse box "Main" fuses are 60 Amp, and the "Range" fuses can accept up to 60 Amp fuses. Range wiring in those older installations usually was rated at 40 Amps and should have that fuse rating.
My fuse box has 8 screw in fusses.I have replaced them all and still have no electricity in bdroom and bathroom..Have never replaced fuses from MAIN or Range areas..Can I tell if One needs replacing just by looking at it or do I need a special device such as u have here? and could this be the cause of just the 2 rooms lacking elec?
Shana Lance
does your range work if so it means that both main fuses are good and that sould mean that all 8 fuses are getting power if they are all good it means there is a problem in the fuse holders or some were along the line there is a breake in the curcuit best thing to do is call a pro
As I indicated in the video, each main fuse feeds 2 small fuses, and 1 range fuse. If 1 of your fuses is heavily loaded, YES, the other fuses will share the remaining load.
Generally, it is best to find a fuse box of the same brand & type to obtain a socket. Some contractors save these boxes for parts and pullouts. They are not sold as replacement parts anywhere that I know of.
As stated in my reply above, NO! The fuse is there to protect the wires from overheating and causing a fire. Use the correct size fuse!
Thanks for showing the testing Meters
"Properly sized" fuses offer swifter protection during a fault. Fuses are prone to tampering, and many insurance companies refuse to insure homes with fuse boxes. Most fuse boxes had no spare room for additional circuits, upon installation. Circuit breakers are easier for the average consumer, and employee to operate
Really,, I bought a old house and I don't see the old fuses the insurance don't cover the house with fuses?
Usually, The kitchen (sometimes includes Dining area & Laundry) is 20 Amps, the rest are 15 Amps
Each instance is different. Generally, the 100 Amp fuse panels had more fuse holders. MOST of the fuses should be 15 Amp, with 20 Amp for Kitchens and Laundry. Fuse Values are determined by wire size, to protect them from overheating. 14 Gage is rated for 15 Amps and 12 Gage is rated for 20 Amps.
Many 100 amp fuse panels are also split bus. There is no single main set of 100 amp fuses. Instead there the Main and Range blocks are fed independently from the line. The Main pullout with 60 amp fuses feeding all the plug fuses and subfeed terminals, and the 40 amp range pullout supplied power to the range or another 240 volt appliance or subpanel. Pulling the 60 amp main still left the Range pullout with power. It can be confusing because these have the appearance of a 60 amp panel.
Quite honestly I wish panels like these were still made, as properly sized fuses are safer than breakers.
The fuses is more safe than brakers?? I bought a house with this and I want rent it but do you think the fuses they are safe
@@ulisesquintero1219 sorry 5 months late, yes, in some ways, fuses ARE a bit safer than breakers, reason being, a fuse WILL ALWAYS BE GUARANTEED TO BLOW and cut power in the event of a problem on the circuit. On the other hand, circuit breakers, especially some of the older brands that are no longer manufactured (Federal Pacific Electric aka Stab Lock and Zinsco ) were very notorious for breakers that failed to trip off when necessary, many fires had been started. Not so much of an issue with modern breakers made by a well known and reputable company. The biggest issue with fuse panels, and why they got a bad reputation for being unsafe, was purely human error. For starters, most fuse panels were rated 60 amp total, which is insufficient by today's standards. Many times in older homes were typically wired with very few outlets per room, and 14 guage wire 15 amp circuits. It was all too easy and tempting to solve a fuse blowing problem by using a higher amp fuse. Another old school and dangerous situation happens when a fuse blows, and the homeowner has no replacements available. They unscrew the blown fuse, shove a penny in the socket and screw the blown fuse back in, effectively removing all protection and turning the house wiring into a fuse. Note that while they did manufactured larger 100 amp or higher fuse panels, they were very seldom used because by the time 100 amp service become common in the early 1960s, breaker boxes were becoming common place.
@@Sparky-ww5re No. A fuse doesn't always blow and cut power in the event of a problem with the circuit. Chinese automotive fuses are notorious for not blowing when they should, and Harbor Freight had a recall on fuse kits they sold. Had fuse panels like this continued in production, you can bet that China would be making glass and cartridge fuses with fake UL labels that don't blow.
You don't say if the range fuses are being used. There are "feeder taps" that could be used to feed another disconnecting means for the welder.
Cartridge fuses generally do not have visual indicators as to whether they are "blown", or not. It would seem unlikely that a MAIN fuse would be blown. There are 2 types of screw-in fuses: Edison base (light bulb type base) & Type "S". Type "S" fuses have porcelain bases, with each value having different threads. 15 Amp, 20 Amp & 30 Amp fuses each have threads that are non-interchangeable with each other. The bottom of the fuse holder would indicate the appropriate fuse size. Are you sure that the fuse you installed is good? The only sure way to test a fuse is to use an Ohm meter, or a continuity light.
The size of fuse you install is based on the wire that it protects. GENERALLY, 14 AWG is 15 Amp, 12 AWG is 20 Amp, and 10 AWG is 30Amp. The Maximum rating has nothing to do with which size fuse to install.
You can increase fuse size on motor loads. Some times an air compressor drawing 14 to 15 amps will often blow a 20 amp fuse so you can increase it to 25 or even 30 amps while using #13 gauge copper wire.
Great video sir 👍⚡
Any clips on properly removing broken fuses or stuck rejector adapters? 🔌
Great video. I have a 60 amp box made by Homart that is almost identical with only a couple minor differences. The left main feed powers the far right range and the right main feed powers the left range.
I’m hooking up 6/3 wire to the Range block to power a 30amp sub panel. With the “Main” pull-out in place, the 6/3 connected to the “range”terminals is hot with the “ range” pull-out fuse block removed. Is this normal? I was hoping to be able to work on that new 220v “Range” circuit by removing the “Range” fuse block so I can have the rest of the power on with only the “range” disconnected. Thanks.
It would appear that the “range block” is killed when the main block is pulled per the schematic as well as the reverse view of the main fuse housing. Interestingly the cartridge fuses here appear to both be 50’s while three of the screw in fuses are 15’s and one is a 20. Based upon those numbers it would appear that the 3 15’s (45) plus the 20 exceed the amperage rating of this box by 5 amps. Moreover that similarly exceeds the individual cartridge fuses by 15 amps. I have a similar box of later construction which is rated to 100 amps. My question pertains to the cartridge fuses based upon the fact that the 4 are marked as accepting 31-60. It appears that someone placed 4 60’s in the box and also put 4 30 amp screw in fuses in which clearly exceeds the safe amperage. To make matters worse a great deal of the original wiring in the building (now zoned as a “shed” instead of a residence) appears to be 14 gauge wire (how the place didn’t burn down is beyond me actually). Anyway my question is whether the main fuses running from the “range” are permitted to be 50’s or whether this is similarly limited by the screw in fuse totals which if they were all 15 amp would only permit two 40 amp cartridge fuses in the range block.
The MAIN kills the entire box. Adding up fuse sizes won't work. Fuses protect the wires based on sizes and insulation type. Old Range fuses were usually 40 Amps. The box is 240 Volts, you are adding up 120 Volt Fuse sizes.
I'm not getting power past my 3rd fuse as you look at the box , I need to look at mt 60 amp fuses to see if power passes over jumper
Thank you, very informative
What does a "block for a range" mean? For an oven or for what purpose? The name is what's confusing as to what it does. My ignorance though. Came here to figure out if MAIN or range boxes fuses are working. How to replace whatever part could be replace IF it's that.
They have not been made for decades. Your only chance is to contact electrical contractors to see if anybody has saved them when services were changed. From time to time, I've sold them over the internet.
Hey! Kind of curious here... There's certain rooms in my house that don't work and has the same 60 amp fuse box shown above. Why would there be power in one side of the house and not power in the other side? Much appreciation for help and info
There at least a few possibilities to explore. One, or more, small fuse could be bad, or a MAIN fuse could be bad. To check a main fuse, you could pull out the main fuse block, and swap the left fuse for the right fuse and vice versa. If the part of the house that wasn't working is now working, you should just replace both cartridge fuses with "Time Delay" fuses. If that doesn't help, try replacing existing plug fuses with new ones of the same value.
@@sparkyjohnrg thanks!
Great video, I recently purchased a home and this exact fuse box seems to be connected to a modern breaker panel in the basement. Does this ensure a better assurance incase of a fault? Also i have some really old bx metal jacket cable running in the attic that doesnt have a grounding strip. Could an electrician run 14/2 romex to this fuse box? Im assuming the ground would be connected on the top, neutral on the bottom and my hot on one of the 15 amp fuses.
If a MAIN fuse was bad, 2 of the round fuses would not work. Have you checked to make sure that the fuses in the RANGE block are good?
Your Great!!! Thanks
I have one of these in my vacation home. All 4 of my fuses are in use. I need to add another circuit. Could I attach 12/2 gauge (20 Amp house wire) to a “feeder tap” and run that line to an auxiliary fuse holder with a 15amp fuse in it(bussmann) in order to create another circuit?
Great video, you really helped me understand how my electrical system works.
You may find it easier to use a fuse reducer for cartridge fuses and come off of the range block, if it is not being used.
I had a 60 amp panel like this, but mine had six screw in fuses. I needed a couple more circuits, and what I did was add a small subpanel for six circuits off this panel. I fed the subpanel from the Range pullout block, using 8/3 wire and 40 amp cartridge fuses. You could also probably feed this panel from the feeder tap lugs if the Range block is in use, or your panel doesn't have a range block, some don't.
can I safely replace a phenolic insulator ring? the one beneath a 20 amp fuse broke. in addition to the fuses there is a "block" with two of the old cardboard tube style fuses that I was told would turn off all electricity in the house if I "pull it", which was the case.
I have same looking fuse box fuse box keep blowing the 3rd fuse .. This happened after power came back on from power outage .. I turned off everything when power came back on next day the 3rd SD fuse keep blowing out every one i put in blows now.. What's wrong?
zylahboow The fuse is trying to tell you there is a problem with the circuit. I would turn off all switches on that circuit & unplug all devices on that circuit. Put in a new fuse and if it holds, turn on 1 switch at a time. If everything works, you know it was something plugged into an outlet. Plug in one device at a time.
Thank you
I'm no electrician so I hope you can follow me here. I have a 60a fuse box just like that but my has the two fuses added on underneath the four. So 6 circuits plus the range.
This is what I don't understand. It's a 60a box but two legs of 120 come in each leg has a 60a fuse to me that looks like I have 120a total coming in. I know that's not right but why is it not looked at in that manner? On top of that we jump over to the range side. There I have two 40a fuses which go to a dryer.
I'll wait before I bring up my electric hot water heater.
I'm just wanting to understand where I'm going wrong lol
Fuses limit the FLOW, not anything else. If an elevator says "Capacity 20 Persons" and you are the only one in it, are you 20 persons?, NO, it just limits the capacity. The fuse box has 60 Amps MAXIMUM, how you the usage is divided up depends on the loads.
@@sparkyjohnrg glad to get a reply back I didn't notice until after I ask the question that the video was 10yrs old.
Anyway thanks for the answer now it makes more sense.
This isn't a really a question unless you have ran into it before and have some insight on it.
I live in the house I grew up in my dad bought it in 65 when I was a year old and the deed/title says the house was built in 52 or 54. However the fuse panel is has a manufacture date on it of 1956. It a 60a panel with 6 circuits and a range circuit that is used for our dryer. Just beside it there is a smaller panel that has an old double pole breaker that has 20a on it that goes to my electric hot water heater. It has never tripped but I have switched it off before to change out the water heater. I recently figured out there is no way to switch off the power going into the breaker. The main wires don't come from the main panel. I can pull the main and the range fuses and the wires going into the too of the smaller box are still hot. The ground is the only wire coming in from the main panel.
One person told me at one point back in the day the power company would install a 2nd meter and charge a lesser rate for power if you would install a electric water heater. That may have been the case but I never known this house to have another meter and we've always had an electric water heater. The only thing I can think of is that it had two meters at one time but when the 2nd meter was removed the wires running to it were moved to the original meter base. As far as I know that goes against code you're not supposed to have two sets of service lines running from one meter I was told. However the power company would have had to be the ones that connected it that way if they removed the 2nd meter base.
I've seen almost all of the service line during my time here because it runs through the wall of a closet from the meter base to the main panel instead of the attic. The main panel inside is a straight 6-8' distance in line with the meter base on the outside of the house. It's been this way for almost 58yrs. I don't recall seeing a splice in the wires when I replaced the sheetrock in the closet yrs ago but I don't remember how many wires that were run either because at that time I thought the main fuses killed the power to it.
The only way I can be for sure is to remove a piece of sheetrock close to the outside wall where the meter is.
I do have one question is there a way I can tell what amps the meter base is rated at ?
Sorry so long and thanks again.
@@LH-kz2nf Since you have a 60 Amp service, It is likely that the wires feeding the subpanel were tapped to the line side of the fuse box. You can determine this by CAREFULLY removing the fuse box cover. If the wires going to the breaker box are under the same terminals as the wires going in, you have your answer.
So if you have one fuse that powers the majority of the apartment will the other 3 take off some of load on the main one
So my place does not have a electric range. I have a new dryer that does not work when plugged in, but I know it works cause I have tested it. Could my main fuse be bad?
ihave this box. the two hot leads run from house to garage with a ground. if i want to connect a 100 amp sub panel in the garage do i connect the grounds and nuterals on the same bus bar?3 wires from house 60 amp to garage 60 amp.i am going to run 12/2 with ground in garage. hope you know what im asking
if I pull the main fuse block then will that stop current to fuses? If so, with main block pulled I am safe to wire circuits to the fuses? Thanks for your video.
Yes, pulling the MAIN fuse block will kill power to all fuse connections.
i have one of these boxes with just two screw in fuses and no block, just a lever. i keep blowing a fuse on it and can't seem to find out why, only thing hooked up to it is the pressure switch for my well
Are you using a Time Delay (Dual Element) fuse? Motors consume 6 to 10 times running current when starting. This can cause a single element fuse to blow instantly.
my parents have a wadsworth fuse box 4 pull outs 8 s type screw fuses can you get pull outs forit if needed
How do I turn my light back on on one side of the house
I would like to replace this antique type box with a new circuit breaker box. what is out there that I could replace this one with? I have found a 100 amp service box but will I have to change the incoming hot wire? Any help or info would be appreciated.
+Ted Dodgin Ted, In many areas of the country, electrical wiring is a regulated activity. In MOST cases, the entire service should be upgraded. This means the wiring out to where it meets the utility connection, meter socket, and updated grounding. This is beyond the ken of most homeowners, and is dangerous. Leave this to a licensed contractor, and find another area to save money.
I also have an old Wadsworth fuse box with 4 20 amp round fuses underneath. We are now missing one and can't find a replacement. Do I have to replace the entire box??
patchesmjh Which pullout are you missing? The Range and Main are NOT interchangeable.
Thank you for that information!
Could I add a sub panel with a 30 amp breaker?
Where can I find a Main block for this. Desperate
I am unsure of your question, and do not want to take a chance on giving you a bad answer
I only have one block instead of two. Is that a problem?
Question: I have an old panel, with fuses. One of the components is a 240V block (with handle, that carries the other type fuses, inserted into a box) that is removable, for the Range (now gas). I want to install - instead - 2 X 15A, 120V fuse HOLDERS (two fuses each). I can get a box full of them (10 holders, for 20 fuses), but the question is: would I require ALSO something to ATTACH those 2 fuse holders to, to the box opening, once I remove the box block that has the handle? I hope I made my self understand. Thank you.
You don't state anything about the fuse box you have, So I will assume that it is similar to the one shown in my video - 2 fusible pullouts and 4 round plug fuses. The RANGE pullout is sized to accept up to 60 Amp fuses. You can insert smaller cartridge fuses by buying "fuse reducers".
Thanks for reply I understand now.
@@sparkyjohnrg can I change this fuses for brakes?
@@ulisesquintero1219 The round "Edison Base" fuses (same base as a light bulb) can be replaced with "mini-Breakers" that can be rest like circuit breakers.
@@sparkyjohnrg but is not problem right if I put mini breakers like the same amp like 15 and 20 I have 6 total on house and I have the old panel 60 amp is ok if I change it right??
Any idea as to where you can get parts? Specifically the replacement "sockets" for the Edison based fuses?
I have replacements sockets if you still need them!
+MrScottie68 I have a bad socket in an old 60 amp fuse box. Would the one you have fit mine? is it hard to change out?
I have a picture, but don't know how to post it here?
+Matt Nale I do not know which sockets would be interchangeable between brands. My suggestion would be to contact a local electrical contractor, and ask if they have any old fuses of the same brand as yours. Remember, the bad socket may be the problem, or the symptom of a larger problem. You do not know if the connections behind the socket are good or failing. Few items last as long as electrical fuse, or breaker boxes. You may be due for a change.
so i have a fuse box very similar to this is it hard to just switch out the fuse box for a circuit breaker and is there anything i have to do before hand
Most areas restrict electrical system changes to licensed professionals. Check with your inspection authorities!
I want to put a 220v outlet In my shop to run a welder how would I go about wiring it to the fuse box
Is it a panel like this? You would either have to add a subpanel off of the subfeed tap lugs. If you have a gas range, and the Range pullout is not being used you can use this pullout to run a 220 volt circuit.
i am trying to hook up a 220v receptacle to my 60 amp fuse its for a 220v 50 amp welder can this be done? if so how?
I ve replaced all the 15 am fuses but some the outlets still do not have power in the spare bedroom and bathroom, any trouble shooting tips
The problem may not be at the fuse box. you may have a loose connection somewhere else in the circuit, and it could be either wire. I am reluctant to give instructions, as I do not know the capabilities of the person receiving them, and I don't want anyone to get hurt.
If you have a GFCI outlet (test and reset buttons on it) in your bathroom, it's possible that your bedroom was fed off the bathroom circuit, and if the GFCI tripped and blew your fuses, it would cut off anything else on that circuit.
My house is from 1953 and a breaker panel has been retrofitted in the 1980's, but it still has the same wiring layout that was run in the 50's. When the GFCI in the bathroom trips and kills the power, so do the adjacent bedrooms.
GFCI outlets have both LINE & LOAD terminals. The LOAD terminals protect everything beyond the outlet (like your bedrooms). Are there other outlets that require GFCI protection beyond that outlet? If not, turning off the power and moving the wires from the LOAD to the LINE terminals will change that for you.
my paents have wadswort put in 1970 it has 8 screw fuses 4 pullouts i belive main only kills 8 screw fuses and each pullout is its own are you familier with wadsworth
The Main Pullout usually kills the whole box. There is a wiring diagram included in each box, or inside each cover that should show how the box is wired.
Is it possible to make a 30 amp connection with this style of box?
Yes
Where can I find a general switch split cartridge/ buss fuse block and box?
These fuse boxes have not been made in a very long time. See if a local electrical contractor has any. Small contractors are more likely to save old items, than a large contractor. You can also look on E-Bay. If you are trying to find parts for your box, you must know which brand, as they are NOT interchangeable!
There's a guy on E-Bay selling fuse box parts, pullout blocks, fuseholders and the screw shells.
Is it Necessary to kill electricity before pulling out a fuse or fuse block prior to test?
+Cody Farmer I presume that you mean you want to test the fuses. Removing the fuse, or fuse block, stops the flow of electricity for that circuit. I do not feel it is necessary to remove the MAIN pullout to de-energize the fuse box.
No, you do not have to turn off the main power to change a fuse, but it would be a good idea for safety. My great grandmother's fuse panel developed a frayed wire inside the panel that was unknown. What happened was that wire ended up making the fuse sockets electrically live. Of course fuses have metal housings on them, and when you held that fuse in your fingers and went to screw it into the socket, you got quite a bite as the current went through the fuse's shell and through your fingers. It didn't happen with glass fuses, only the metal ones.
You don't have to but the possibility of being shocked is still possible, I know from experience 😂🤷♀️😂. I pull the mains now as a precaution.
Is there a reason the fuse block is 50 amp and not 60 amp?
Both fuse pullouts will accept fuses of 35 to 60 Amps.
question: how to tell which screw-in fuses to use?
18 gauge wire you need 10 amp 16 gauge eire you need 13 amp
14 gauge wire you need 15 amp
12 gauge wire you need 20 amp
10 gauge wire you need 30 amp
8 gauge wire you need 40 amp
6 gauge wire you need 50 amp
4 gauge wire you need 60 or 70 amp
2 gauge wire you need 90 amp
what year range would this be used in? 65-70s? I have no idea.. sorry to sound noobish lol
+charlie Hoss I would say that in the Milwaukee, Wisconsin area, that range would be: post World War 2 through the 1970's. Even though circuit breakers were available, fuse boxes were cheaper.
okay thanks!
where can i find the cartiliages that full out at need to just like this one
They are no longer made. You would have to know the brand of box and whether you need the MAIN or Range Pullout. You could try calling electrical contractors in your area to see if any of them kept them as the boxes were changed to circuit breakers.
Can these be replaced with newer breaker system?
Yes, but usually by professionals. Codes have changed drastically since that box was installed.
Breakers have problems too. Easy for someone to switch to a larger capacity breaker. They have many moving parts, which makes them MUCH MORE unreliable than a properly sized fuse.. if a homeowner doesn't investigate the cause of the breaker tripping, and repeatedly resets the breaker, it can start nuisance tripping at a much lower amperage than it's rating. Worse, the worn parts can HANG, and NOT trip, in response to an overload, and cause a fire or damage equipment. The restriction bases prevented people from putting in over-rated fuses. But people are ignorant, and stuff in foil. So the government mandated inferior protection. - "fool proof". So people like me, in engineering for 39 years, have to pay the insurance company a premium to keep my superior protection.
does anyone know if the feeder tap can be used as a legit place for a grounding rod?
NO!! Feeder Taps are energized! Any grounding would be done from the neutral terminal.
@@sparkyjohnrg will the neutral work with 6 gauge stranded.I have 1 free screw on the right side?
what year was this box made?
+Joni Mire I have no idea as to the exact date of manufacture. They were made for many years, even after circuit breaker boxes were available, because they were CHEAP.
Does anybody know where to get main block for this?
The Main & Range Blocks were NOT interchangeable. The Various brands were Not interchangeable. Yu have to know which brand you are looking for. You can call local electrical contractors to see if they may have saved a few when they upgraded services. I have a few of the WADSWORTH brand blocks.
I have been looking for the diagram of my old panel, Cuttler-Hammer catalog No. 4334423o 4334H23 (label is hard to read) I truly appreciate a copy if you have it?Tessa
By RANGE box this does not mean as in Cooking range only correct? Mine is gas..LOL
How do I turn the power on/off ??
Nick Milk If you pull out the fuse "Pullout" marked MAIN, you turn off all power coming into the fuse box.
Okay, Thanks!
my power went out HELP how do I fix it
can anyone answer i have the exact set up why do my main fuse blow instead of the screw in fuse when i over load the system by accident
Your MAIN fuses should be Dual Element (Time Delay). That should cure your issue
@@sparkyjohnrg the 15 amp screw in's are time delay all four but the ones behind the block blow one out of four the cherry bomb looking fuses. shouldn't the screw in ones blow before the mains? The block was hot and the fuse could have burned me it was so hot. i need to upgrade the system and rewire it because i can't run the stove microwave kitchen lights dishwasher at the same time it eventually blows the fuse with in a year. also on a 60 amp what should the main four fuses behind the block be thanks
@@bobdimartino6738 The Fusible Pull-out should have Time Delay Fuses to override start-up inrush current. The Range can be a rather large load, depending on how many burners / Oven are in use. Don't fail to consider the connections behind the surface are failing. As connections deteriorate, there is increased resistance manifesting as heat. You said the cartridge fuses were almost hot enough to burn you. That electrical system was installed before some of the modern appliances were available.