Drafting a Medieval Kirtle Dress Pattern
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2018
- I am super excited to start on my newest dress project, and thought someone might appreciate a basic drafting video before I start on the real deal!
Would you rather drape a new pattern instead of draft? Honestly, that's my preferred method too, and there's a great photo tutorial for that at La Cotte Simple: cottesimple.com/tutorials/curv...
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I just need to let you know that you explained this so well that it took me less than an hour to make the pattern and my first mock-up... and the dang thing fits.
Yaaaaaay’
I am in the midst of it. Less than an hour? Nope. Fits? Enough for a pre-muslin.
Thank you! I want to make a few kirtle style dresses for myself to wear regularly. I'm retired now, and live rural and can wear whatever I want...and I want.
Funnily enough, that's exactly what I'm doing right now. I have some late Victorian inspired dresses I made myself and which I've worn for years already and love them, but living in a village I sometimes feel a little overdressed. However, I'm so sick and tired of having to shop for something I both like and that fits me decently enough - and which often is lacking in quality anyway, that I'm no longer willing to invest in this kind of nonsense, so for me, this is the way to go. I recently bought some nice lightweight woollen cloth and as soon as my mockup is done, the actual adventure can begin. That's why I'm watching this again, I still need to draft the sleeves, everything else is ready to be transferred onto paper again. Whoohoo!
Have fun sewing. :)
@@nicoleroth3127 may the odds be ever in your favor! I've learned I don't care if I feel too dressed up. I just point out to people that you, in fact, can wear a dress for a normal day rather than pants.
@@penelope-oe2vr Thank you! And I completely agree with your statement.
Glad to say, that in this instance it had little to do with what others thought (they likely think me completely bonkers anyway, but 'normal' just isn't for me, so hey), but with how I felt (there are days when I love looking and feeling like a lady, but others where I wanted something that felt less formal without the need to resort to modern clothes) and what was more practical on an everyday basis, for example, to work in the garden. Since I love both styles equally, it wasn't a compromise either, and I still do both styles. It was just that I hadn't enough knowledge before to make something decent and fairly authentic when it came to medieval clothing (especially pattern drafting, which is something I'm fairly new to) but aside from hanging around on UA-cam, I did quite a bit of research since. I mean, around where I live, there are a few medieval markets once a year, but they are very heavy on the fantasy side and cannot be taken too seriously. What you can buy there garment wise, would make every fashion historian cringe big time, however, for a long time, that was all I knew (that and that it had nothing to do with reality). Not that I'm going for 100% accuracy, seeing that for summer I took the liberty of making two more kirtles from linen, nor do I cover my hair despite being married, but I didn't want any of those very loose interpretations (to put nicely).
Have a wonderful week and stay safe. And again thank you for your very wise words.
this is incredibly well-explained; genuinely never before has drafting a sleeve pattern from scratch ever made mechanical sense to me !!
My mother is having a medieval themed wedding and this is a great excuse to make a shift, little and wimple!
I've watched most of your videos and now I'm going through and re-watching certain ones, like this one, so I can start making my own dresses. I've started looking into my local SCA because of you!
Awesome! I hope you have lots of fun! Definitely go to a camping event if you can, sitting around the fire making friends is the best :D
@@MorganDonner I believe it! I worked at a Renaissance faire in high school and loved the immersion into an old culture. The after-closure jamming sessions, where everyone who had an instrument would get together and play, were the best part of the day.
With the increased work from home and overall unemployment, I honestly think we as a general population should start building smaller "villages" inside our larger cities, and compared to modern gang styles historic styles make it easy to identify "friends".
Hey Morgan, I'm coming back through and rewatching all the things on kirtles with the intention of making a shirt-lengthed kirtle cuz boy and howdie am I done with bras. What I was not expecting was for your mockups to be exactly the length I was looking for! And having that example is just chef's kiss.
This is exactly why I am rewatching this today. How did you like them?
Thanks for posting this, it's a great starting point since I often make my own patterns... The only thing keeping me from finishing the sleeve pattern in a timely fashion is the small black rabbit sitting on it... demanding noserubs.
I didn’t think I’d ever relate to a comment so much! I’m working on this in my sister’s apartment since she has more desk space compared to my dorm, but the downside (or upside?) is that she has 2 free roaming little rabbits
This video came right in time, about to start a medieval costume. A suggestion for the audio, you could look at getting an inexpensive lapel microphone, they're really small and easy to use and can really increase the quality.
Oh, a lapel mic! That sounds perfect, I'll see what I can find!
My grandmother wore her handmade kirtle to this country. I had to watch you make this. And now I want my own. ...on it 😉 thanks.
This is such a blessing 🌹🌹🌹. I've been basically cutting and reassembling modern basic patterns to get a measure of medieval...ness into garments, but this is soooo much more convenient. I'll be trying that really soon, because especially the sleeves have so far been a pain in the nether regions.
I'm putting together a custom dress form and the first thing I plan to make on it is a kirtle style dress for everyday wear. I love the idea of boat necks that aren't intending to show clevage.
Thank you so much for this! The kirtle I made with your help here feels and looks absolutely amazing! I'm still fairly new to sewing, so it was a real confidence boost to see what I could make without even having to buy a pattern. I see myself making many more in the future so I can wear them all the time.
I want to make myself a whole bunch of these in different materials to layer and wear. I am moving from the south to the north and I want to be able to be warm and toasty. I also want to switch to totally handmade clothing. Im disabled/retired and can wear whatever i want now. I think these will be so comfy for daily wear.
Wonderful tutorial, you make it very clear and easy! 😄
I get so much pleasure watching your videos! Besides being just so clear and useful you have the most pleasing presentation style :) Thank you for posting
Thank you for this amazing tutorial!!! I love it. It was soo helpful since I sew quite few. 😊❣️
I spontaneously decided I needed to attend the local Renaissance fair this year and I needed a kirtle. I remembered seeing this video a while back, so with my pattern paper and measuring tape, I was finally able to draft one! Sleeves and all! Thank you SO much for your amazing tutorials! ❤️
The best teaching ever.
This is so simple as you explained it. I haven't done a medieval gown in several years. I'm using your technique to start back.
I have made many sleeves in my life (for super basic button downs to fill out my wardrobe) but even for that I feel like this sleeve tutorial helped a lot!
This is so easy to follow and I’m glad I stumbled on this!
Oh my goodness, this was so helpful! Thanks for making this video. I can't wait to see the next steps! :)
Yay, thank you! I'm looking forward to sharing the finished dress!
Now this I NEED to do, need to get material first ... :)
Morgan, thanks for the really great explanation on how to take the measurements and translate that into a pattern.
A dear friend from NZ helped many of us draft fitted bodice patterns a few years ago - - but I forgot how, and since my torso has changed shape rather drastically since pregnancy I really need some new fitted stuff that will hold all my bits up properly. This is exactly what I needed! 😁
This is very helpful! Thank you😍 ! I've wanted to make a Kirttle but I've been to chicken !
Question about measuring the bust: I have a very full bust (which obviously sits differently when supported than when it's not) and I know that this dress does some work to support the bust. To get the best fit and to get that support in the dress, would you recommend measuring without any undergarments, measuring with some light support (like a bralette), or measuring with full support (a full bra)? (Obviously I would make adjustments after making mock-ups, but I'd like to start with a good baseline.)
If you have a large bust, then I'd recommend doing your measurements, or if draping, your first drape with a good supportive bra, but something more in the sports bra style if you have it, rather than anything pointy or with hard cups. For this style of dress, your bust tends to get pushed together, so you might as well start with that shape.
And as you say, any subsequent mock-ups should be without any under-support that you don't intend to wear with the final dress. Some ladies prefer to wear their modern bras under their dress - -whatever floats your boat!
@@MorganDonner with large busts and non narrow necklines the lengburg bra would be historically acurate
@@MorganDonner What about an underwired, non-padded bra? Will that work? I'm looking to get into making clothes again and I feel really inspired to make historical garments.
@@mangalover0149 I would honestly suggest looking into making a early stay or corset as one of your first projects. They are much more support than modern bras.
@@leechowning2712 Thank you! I have a pattern for some stays, but I think I might find another one since it's the simplicity American Duchess one. I've heard that it turns out short waisted. Do you know of any patterns I could use?
Brilliant, beautifully explained x
This is an awesome video thank you so much! I'm trying to learn drafting and this breaks it down so well!
You are very welcome! I am not very professional, but hopefully this video helps at least a little bit!
Brilliant explanation, just what I was searching for and very easy to understand :)
Excellent! Thank you so much!
FINALLY!! YES!! THANK GOD!!
Ok this is my job for this week so I can make my first front-lacing kirtle due in 4 weeks, will check back in after to let you know how mine goes based on your instructions!
Made my first mock up from my first ever drafted pattern and the thing fits!…The second time when I remembered to add seam allowance 😆😆😆
4:38 Oh my gosh, I recognize that medieval lady on the right!! I’m currently living in Neuchâtel, Switzerland (I can see the chateau from my apartment 😄). The church built next to the castle has a collection of statues of the ruling family of the time (church was constructed in the 1200s). The statues were allowed to stay after the church was converted from catholic to protestant because the statues are secular figures!
I totally leaned around this lady to take pictures of the buttons running down the back of her sleeves (as only a sewist would, haha 😅)
Let me know if you’d like the photos 😁
You are brilliant! thank you.
I have a very hard time finding patterns in my size (especially in the costuming realm) so this is an amazing resource! Thanks so much!
You are very welcome!! I'll be posting a draping video for this same style of dress soon, be sure to check it out :D
Looking forward to it! I just stumbled across your channel today (sometimes the algorithm gets it right) and have enjoyed everything I've watched so far. Keep up the great work!
For a garment with a sleeve, lower the underarm by 1/2 in for comfort and add a little extra width in arm hole and sleeve so you can lift your arm.
This was really helpful, thanks!
Only video that actually teaches about pattern. Others talks too much how great they are and how its finished. Thanks for video really helpful. I need for every day life because Im Christian women. Ex Muslim here after saw Jesus Lord Amen.
This was. Super interesting 🤔.
Funny and useful. Thanks! New subscriber. 👍🏻
We met (kind of) in 2019. I was so excited to tell you how great you videos are but I think you probably get that a lot or were busy or maybe shy because you didn’t say anything back and then walked away 😂 Anyways, I used your gusset tutorial which I’ve practised and perfected over the past two years with Norse tunics and now I am using your kirtle tutorial. Thank you for the easy to follow tutorials. Huzzah!
I really wish i had a dress shape but i dont sadly it would help so much with mockups
Im working on Sleeping Beauty’s color changing gown but, being the cosplayer who is looking for an easy way to do this since I decided to make this on a whim and need to finish this project quickly, I decided on using a knit fabric so I can easily slide it over my head and I made it with a train even if its probably not historically accurate. Seeing how the pattern is made really helps me in my kirtle making endeavors
Just made my pattern - it's SUPER wonky due to my chest but 🤞🤞 this weekend I'll try my first mock up with it!
Thank you for this video, this is so interesting. :D
I seriously hate doing mock ups, though. I recognize that it makes sense to do them, but the amount of fabric I have to give up for something I do not intend to wear... I just don't have enough fabric in my stash. T_T
Sometimes I buy sheets or sturdy curtains at the thrift store for exactly that reason!
I buy seconds and damaged fabric at a discount from my local fabric store.
Don't use good fabric for mockups! Go buy the ugly discount fabric or use your cabbage from other projects!
And don't forget if your mock up is of something large (like a dress) you can most certainly repurpose that fabric for more mock ups later!
Or, perhaps, if the mockup needs few alterations, use it to go history bounding! I have some quilting cotton which has a lovely print, useful for 19th C. Except, I'm not volunteering anymore, as I'm not able to drive.
So, I'll use it as a mockup for my kyrtle & do my best to fit it properly. Then, I will be able to have a pretty winter dress.
What type of headdress are you wearing? I really like the "Wimple" area and want to know if it is one piece.
The wimple is a circular piece of silk fabric, folded along the bias and wrapped around my face :D Very easy, and great for using as a veil too!
Sleeves!!!! I’m going to have to go over this multiple times, then play with it on paper.
Is yr dress form the one you made? What a lovely job!
I’m having to start from scratch, having lost 70 lbs & hoping to lose 10 to 20, more.
So, I’m going to do easy, first. A simple shift, but w practice sleeves.
Wish me luck!
Hi Morgan, I love your video's! Thank you very much. I have a question in your video you show examples from 5 Kirtles in Medival paintings (at 5:14 min. in video). Do you remember from which source (name of painting or artist) these fragments come? I really love the blue and the right dress. I am weaving my own fabric and always trying to find te medival sources as reference. especialy the right one would be a lovely project to make :-)
Dear Morgan, thank you so much for making this video! I have a question about how you altered your mockups to get rid of the folds near the bust. I have been reducing and adding width on mine and I just cannot seem to get rid of them. Do you have any tips? I could really use some. Hope to hear from you :)
First of all, excellent tutorial. The content is easy to understand and follow! I used the draping method from the blog and I got a great fit, but I am getting a lot of creasing around the waist- do you know how to fix this? I see a tiny bit of creasing in other people’s finished versions, but I am envious of your perfectly smooth waist shape!
Have you perhaps figured out a solution yourself? :o I am having the same problem with creases around the bust.
I saw this dress a September Crown and it looks great, also liked the barding of the same material for your dog. My question is in regards to the paper you use for making patterns. Is that packaging paper to the likes that can be picked up a staples or is it something else?
Hey Kevin! Thank you for your compliment! I typically buy my pattern paper at Home Depot or some other home repair store, I think it's often called butcher paper? I have a link at the bottom of the description box for a similar product on Amazon, although my paper is a little bit wider at 35 in vs Amazon's 30 inch wide. One roll will typically last me several years!
How much seam allowance do you usually add when drawing up the pattern? And do you have any tips for doing so ? Specifically talking about the tricky areas like sleeve gatherings etc
I typically use 3/8ths of an inch, or half an inch. If I encounter a spot where I'd like a smaller allowance (like a deep curve) then I trim it after sewing. I don't often sew gathered sleeves, so I don't usually worry about treating those seam allowances differently. Sorry, I hope that helped!
Question where do you get good medieval patterned silk brocade/broadcloth great work! I’m trying to sew my girlfriends a flat fronted kyrtle
Sartor (www.sartor.cz/44-historical-textiles) is some of the best historical silk brocade around! It's also quite pricey, but it truly is lovely if you can afford it. I have had to use whatever I can find in my local fabric stores, sometimes I lucked out with something that's at least reminiscent of historical designs.
Do you only use apparel fabric, or is upholstery fabric an okay substitute?
Yes! Thanks so much for this, it's exactly what i was looking for! Also i assume that cutting the dress without gores just makes it more prone to warping/stretching?
You are welcome! And yep, that is exactly right about the gores. If you have two bias seams meeting, then they will stretch over time, so it's recommended to pair a bias edge with a straight grain edge!
@@MorganDonner thank you for your reply, i can't wait to try out your tutorials! :)
Hi Morgan, thank you for the super interesting videos! I’m your newest fan :)
Question: could you tell me what kind of paper you use for patterning? Is it the kind that is smooth on one side and kind of gritty on the other? I’m trying to buy this postal wrapping paper but I’m not 100% sure on the specs...
The brown paper I use is from hardware stores, search for 'Builder's paper'. I find that it's very thick, like construction paper, and is the same on both sides. Mostly smooth, like normal computer paper.
Does this push your chest together in the center when wearing it, and is there a way to adjust to help that happen a little less?
Is no one going to ask about the button up blue dress you are wearing in the video? It fits so well! Did you make it?
I’m still a little confused about how to put the measurements on the paper
I'm so excited to make this! Question though, how do you make the lacing up the front? There seems to be a particular way of lacing. Also, do you finish all the tiny holes by hand?
I do typically finish all my lacing holes by hand, although I tend to do very quick, minimal eyelets, nothing fancy! The lacing method is called 'spiral lacing', if you search for it online, there should be a few different blogs that cover the why and how of it! :D
To actually make cord you can use a lucet ! As far as I know it's period accurate and from personal experience, really easy to use!
Just found this video today. Don't know if you'll see this comment! Everything was clearly explained and I hope to try my hand at drafting my own kirtle. Question,though. Do you draft the garment to fit your bust as is or in a bra. The kirtle is the support garment, I believe. Just can't get my head around where to "put them" so that they wind up in the right place when in the finished garment. Sitting here rather red faced asking this delicate question, sorry. ☺️
at 3:55 do you need to divide this number? i got 40" and i think that might be too long.
I’m confused about where to draw the bust on my pattern?
I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and I am loving all your tutorials! It’s been almost a decade since I attended an SCA event and none of my garments fit me anymore. I’m curious to know what kind of fabric you recommend for mock-ups and what type of paper you use to make a pattern. I’m hoping to attend another event in the near future and will need something to wear. Also, living in Ansteorra can be a challenge with final fabric choices because period appropriate clothing should be either wool or linen and constructed of multiple layers which is very uncomfortable in triple-digit temperatures but very nice when the weather turns frigid. I am open to suggestions if you can offer any.
I'm here for this as well. It's SO. DAMN. HOT. I love wearing the layers but way more often do I need to worry about not getting heatstroke even with only 2 layers of linen....!
Anyone with a smaller bust try using these instructions and have quite a bit of wrinkling and pulling down the center front? I'm on draft three and still having some struggle, though I am using a cheap muslin. I fear I may have to continue on to the lining and hope that it works out better.
Morgan, how does one draft medieval sleeves? I want a simple, 14th C kyrtle & have never figured out how you make a sleeve pattern.
Additionally, I've always added godets to my dresses. I love yr tip on flipping the bias bit & attaching bias to straight. Is that correct?
I have back problems w spinal stenosis at top & bottom, arthritis, & have dev scoliosis. No clue how to adjust for scoliosis, so I'm ignoring it. The BIG issue is that my shoulders are curved forward, these days & my neck juts out a bit. So far, it's not hideous.
I'm making a kyrtle of a black challis to wear to the Veteran's Ball, in November. It will be hand-sewn & I plan to flat line the bodice (maybe everything) w a fine linen to give it some body. That way, I'm hoping it won't decide to slink its way around my legs & trip me!
Events, even if they WERE taking place, are all too far away for me to attend, thus wearing 14th C to a modern féte. A lady has to find ways to slip the Middle Ages in whenever possible. 😉
So, keeping the shoulder seams back where they belong, medieval sleevils, & addressing the definite curve of my upper back w a sway back, as well. HELP!
Bernadette Banner is another sewing channel I watch and she has scoliosis and she mentioned in several of her videos that she has to adjust all her fitted Victorian creations to it, to the point that it doesn't fit on her dress form after she's adjusted. I'm not sure if she directly discusses how she accounts for her asymmetry, I haven't watched all her videos yet.
I'm very new to sewing but my goal is garment making.
I would like to make a dress with a high neck collar (similar to turtleneck without folding down). I guess something close to Victorian ....rather than the boat or peasant wide-ness of the neckline tops.
How would I do that?
On your outro, what is that think you are wearing over the kirtle? I want one. I wanna make one. what's its name, please?
If I plan on making my dress out of linen, what fabric should I try to make my mock up out of? I was going to use muslin, I have about 40 yards of it. but would it be too different of a fabric? Should I use something thicker/sturdier?
Muslin would work enough to at least get you in the ballpark. It won't act exactly the same, but it will be close enough. If you are concerned about sturdiness, but really want to use the muslin, you could try flat lining two layers of muslin together and using that for a bit more structure.
I'm having issues drafting the pattern as my bust and waist measurements are not that far off and my waist to under the bust measurement is 7 inches. It's basically a rectangle that flares out a bit in the front. Any thoughts on what to do for us kinda odd shaped bodies?
If drafting out a pattern is just not treating you kindly, then I suggest draping a pattern instead! I am 95% done editing a video on exactly that, it should be out in a few days. If I am helping someone make a pattern, I highly prefer to drape directly on their bodies, but I recognize that not everyone has a sewing buddy available, so I put the drafting video out first!
Have you made a duct tape pattern of your body before? That might help
❤🙂
I’m having trouble smoothing out the top is the chest area (like in your 1st mockup) how do I fix it without using darts??
First try to pull up the shoulders tighter, that often reduces the wrinkles for me, and also make a second mock up with an interlining included, as the properties of the fabric may behave a little bit differently then.
I love this so much but I think I must be doing something wrong or maybe it's just my body is weird, I have like a 10 inch difference from my underbust to bust causing a crazy slope when I try to adjust front/back piece. Any tips?
If the drafting seems weird, then I would grab a friend and try the draping style instead: ua-cam.com/video/xOJpNCEXQ-4/v-deo.html
I have seen very shapely ladies have a lot of success with that method!
When measuring distance of UB and B to waistline, is this with or without bra? If I want this to be a supportive kirtle, should I measure where I want my bust to be?
Bra vs no bra is a good 2 or so inch difference for me
So help me I’m going to try to make this in 4 days from scratch...
Help please Morgan. I tried to make a mdieval kitle in a basic rectangle and triangle pattern from Harris Tweed but the material is so stiff and thick that it just looks rubbish. Any ideas how I can salvage this beautiful and expensive material please?
You make it look so easy lol. I’ve been trying to create a “support kirtle” with a tighter fit and former bust control, following the toile instructions from Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, and I can’t get a balance between support and the lacing in the front laying flat. How do you get your lacing to lay so flat? (I’m small waisted and well endowed.)
What do you mean with lacing lay flat? What exactly happens with your lacing? Does it create little folds perpendicular to the slit?
Maybe a thicker fabric or a piece of interfacing and/or lining on the inside of the part with the lacing holes would prevent that.
I have been trying to figure out the same thing. It seems like some amount of that is unavoidable, but it would be nice if it was flatter. I don't know for sure, but I wonder if making extra space for the bust at the side seam rather than the center front would help. Then the center front pieces wouldn't have such a strong curve and would have an easier time laying flat. Princess seams might be another good option.
"time to do a bunch of mockups"
I can hear Rachel "no mock ups" maksy screaming no in the distance
hey everyone, I am looking to start making some more historically accurate things like this, and I was wondering if anyone had any books or sources to recommend. I'm interested in 1500's and before, but there are so many resources that I get overwhelmed.
Can u post part 2 below for me please
Can u make more drafting videos
this is great, but... i think i have a problem with mine. every time i do a mock-up my bust gets this weird wrinkle. it looks like a point, and if i loosen the top of the seam at the neck my shoulders fall off, but the wrinkle goes away. is it because of my side seams? mine look relevantly straight, whereas yours has a curve for the front and a flatter back seam. fits fine otherwise. what am i doing wrong? help!
I always have a bit of a wrinkle under the bust, but if it bothers you, I'd keep trying until you are happy with the result!
@@MorganDonner just out of curiosity how many yards of fabric did you use? i have about 5 7/8 yards of one and 2 of another. the main yardage is only 45 inches wide though, but the second is 60. do i have enough?
Where's part 2?
I’m confused about how to put the measurements to paper
So would you use this little style for a 1500’s Italian Renaissance gown??? And if not where can I find information on the proper undergarments for those gowns? HELLLPPPP 😆
So the undergarment would likely be a Camicia- Something similar to a chemise. And I would use this draft, ending a bit above the waist- Maybe half way between the waist and the underbust. The skirt I would just do a gathered dirndle. Only adding triangular gores if you make a skirt with a train, otherwise I'd just gather two rectangles. The sleeves will be a bit different, and I'd suggest looking up extant art and doing a lot of research on Gamurra style gowns.
People always skip the mock up part of this and then wonder why it doesn't fit.
I know this is a super basic question, but when you are doing bust measurements, do you wear any undergarments? Mom of four here 😉😉
Yes, you should include the undergarments when measuring and trying on the mockups (if you can!)
Wait what too fast! Which line is the wrist?!which part is the top! All I got is one vertical line cause you speed up without explaining what goes where! Cries in sleeve!
So... What if you're fat and fat in a rather... unique way? Like ppl would assume I'm pregnant? I'm not pregnant tho... unless it's been a miraculous conception and the pregnancy has been lasting 2+ years.
I didn't follow anything about this video... And I studied for create patterns