I think that even though a few of the things done in this video are already outdated, like rasping the outside wall higher up to remove a bulge cosmetically, it's still a very good way of mapping a foot and a good clear explanation for horse owners finally learning about hooves. Also I think it's great that this was only posted in 2010 and already we know so much more about what is a correct and balanced trim. Unfortunately where I am all the farriers are still in the stone age of pasture trims
Crimson Critter I am very happy to hear that you are going to become a farrier. You care enough about your horse to make sure that he or she will be getting the best care possible. It sounds like your determined to do just that. I will be looking forward to seeing you on UA-cam as a Farrier taking care of the animals that you love so much. Good luck Crimson
Thank you !! My horses are barefoot, and My Barefoot trimmer gal told me I need to learn to do this myself, I really appreciate the hoof mapping, as I will use this next time on my Horse.
I don't know about how this info compares with the "latest fashion" in hoof trimming. I do know that it solved the problems I was having with an older horse recovering from Cushings. The farriers around here didn't help any and this was more in line with what I thought should happen. It gave me confidence to go ahead and it provided guidance with the details. It absolutely solved my problem so that the hoof grew out properly. Thanks!!
@LowkeeLT - If I understand your first question correctly, I believe you don't want to rasp away the thin, protective coating on the outside of the hoof up near the coronet or rasp at the top third of the hoof which this guy doesn't. Rasping the outside of the hoof further down (closer to where the hoof touches the ground) is done to correct flares and other things.
As a Mission Farrier School grad I approve this video and try to mimic this type of barefoot trim every day. My barefoot horses aren't ever lame so the horses kinda back up the trim.
The bars are curved and long pressing on the aterial supply to the frog and unless part 3 addresses this, the frog will continue to strangulate and be subject to bacterial and fungal infection.
your first measurement of the ratio of ideally 50/50 was taken from the heel to the WPOF then WPOF to breakover. When you measured in part 2 it was from dimple in frog to WPOF, the heels are forward of this. Please explain.
The back of the frog was now higher than the heel (meaning closer to the ground when the foot comes into the ground or makes initial ground contact), so it is now the rear-most weight bearing structure. Hope that helps.
many good practices re the apex of frog and findint the widest part of the the foot, but the info that quarters just have wall to supply protection is wrong as ideally they come down to the water line. using the wall as support is farrier practice and does put stress on the coronary band which would not occur naturally in barefoot wild horse
I was also worried about the excesses fixing of the shape by rasping the outside wall, dosn't seem sensible to weeken it that way and possible create more and bigger flares in time... The lady with channel thehappyhoof explains this a bit and I've learn't lots from there.
Yes, for the most part mapping the hind feet is the same. Often times the hind foot is about a half size to a whole size smaller than the front foot on the same horse, so you have to take that into account, but your only talking about 1/16" or 1/8" difference in the measurements. You will also find that of the 3 methods to locate the widest part of the foot, on hind feet the measurement back from the frog apex and the termination of the bars are more accurate and used more frequently than the actual widest part of the sole. This is probably due to the shape the coffin bone and the wall distortions that are more common in hind feet (flaring heel quarters). Aside from that the process is the same. However, the breakover point you apply with your shoe or trim might be further forward on some hind feet depending on footing and use. The mapping is there to help guide you in locating the internal structures so that you can make the best choice on what you need to do to each foot. How you use that information to apply shoes or trim the foot are things that you do based on many factor and your experiences.
Everybody seems to have issue with rasping of flair. If u don't take down flair, the wall will pull away from the white line over time & cause separation. An untended flair will cause the foot to splay. To much splay equals separation equals white line disease. As long as u don't rasp the very white upper periople, the hoof integrity is perfectly intact. This hoof was even showing a little of that separation at the front pillars. Had he left that flair, the separation would have worsened over time.
I don't agree with rasping from the outside. All you're doing is thinning and weakening the roof wall without really addressing the flare. The REASON for flaring is WHAT?? It's bearing a lot of weight because the toe is too long and there's no heel support. All this trim did is trim off hoof and re-create the EXACT same load points that cause that side flaring, and although not severe and doubtful that it ever would - the dorsal hoof/pastern angle is undercut putting strain on all internal anatomy potentially causing problems
I notice you rasped pretty much all of the hoof wall. Isn't that bad for the hoof, to remove that hoof coating which is on the hoof wall? I've been trimming my barefoot horse to be flat against the ground. I'll be sure try out your "twin peaks" method and see how she responds while riding. Anything to make her more comfortable. A happy horse means an enjoyable ride :)
thank you! helped me really understand the need for mapping! And the importance of being accurate to find the true of middle. But you lost me when you rasped off the dorsal wall at the pillars :( nature doesn't do that...nature does bevel so I believe that a more agressive bevel at those points would hve been in order with natural barefootedness then maintaining the bevel until the foot corrects by growth. still...this video gave me much more true info and i appreciate your consise direction.
More details...how long, which hoof, injury, what are you feeding? Impossible that it's not growing. If the hoof weren't growing this means no circulation which means the hoof would be lame
@@dr.mikejohnson571 : i didn't know since yet that there is special food for each hoof available. Front right, front left, ... maybe there's more specialized food for better heels or better sole? Do you sell it? Prize... no problem! Should i feed the different hooves at different times over the whole day? Please help me! I'm really desperate...
I know this trim video is very old now and two things are visibly wrong with it. The first is dressing the live hoof wall to try and fix anything. This damages the integrity of the hoof capsule dramatically and should never be done. The second is trying to create a false break over point by trimming in a break over instead of wearing it in will cause the pedal bone to shift downwards. The other problem with this type of solar hoof mapping is it is in 2D, where the hoof is a 3D structure you should never trim to the visible sole plane as you are repeating the mistakes of the previous farrier which will destroy the edge of the pedal bone. I learned this style of markup 14 years ago and have found its faults. It is great for describing a foot in reference points but they like a photo are only 2D. Do Not trim to the sole plane.
After all the excessive details focusing on the bottom of the foot and potential dynamics there, you end up with an elongated extremely thin toe and no heel producing an undercut hoof pastern angle as shown with the horse's hoof on a flat surface at 9:27 😳 (the last image is taken at a 30° front angle and doesn't show the actual angle from a 90° view, but you can still see the undercut hoof/pastern angle, no heel support and the thinned out long toe). All the measurements of the bottom of the hoof aren't addressing the critical need: An unbroken line/no angulation between the dorsal hoof and the pastern. You say the hoof shouldn't be square - best thing for this horse after your trim would be to square off the toe and put a shoe on with at least 1/2" lift at the heel to square up the the hoof with the pastern. Not meaning to be critical - your skills and knowledge far exceed mine, but after all the important issues you address you end up with some issues that even in my relative ignorance are glaring 😳
The bars are bad trimmed and curved, the heels are too long and the wall has a different height on the sides. Not really useful trimming. It´s uncomfortable for the horse.
that because you left them high then toke all the strength out of the outer wall by rasping it down please people don't do that you are only going to hurt the horse if you rocker it a little and not as much toe. I was doing he's trim my horse stopped running after 2 or 3 rocker trims she started rite after a trim and hasn't stopped.
I think that I can figure out why so many horses turn up lame. Ferriers all think that they are doing the right thing when they are not. Get it together guys, the horse's life is at stake. You are all supposed to be professionals. If I was a horse owner, I would be worried. I think that I would have to go get myself certified to be a ferrier.
+~Crimson Critter~ what's this lameness? Is this some kind of disease in the hoof? I was always confused with this since no one gives clear information
I really don't believe this guy knows what he's doing; old school knowledge, no new skills, techniques or discovery. The horse is NOT suppose to support it's weight on the wall of the hoof, that does a lot of internal, irreversible damage, the wall is meant to keep the hoof in tact (coffin bone), the bottom, sole is suppose to support the horse's weight; ignorance, next he'll tell every one that crack is the new coffee.
Noreen Mooney The horse bears on the wall and the sole as well as the frog. No horse walks on a completely flat unyielding surface all the time. The impression into the ground creates contact. The contact on both parts will vary depending on the surface. Generally speaking, The hoof wall is designed to have more consistent active contact and the sole more passive contact.
I think that even though a few of the things done in this video are already outdated, like rasping the outside wall higher up to remove a bulge cosmetically, it's still a very good way of mapping a foot and a good clear explanation for horse owners finally learning about hooves. Also I think it's great that this was only posted in 2010 and already we know so much more about what is a correct and balanced trim. Unfortunately where I am all the farriers are still in the stone age of pasture trims
Crimson Critter I am very happy to hear that you are going to become a farrier. You care enough about your horse to make sure that he or she will be getting the best care possible. It sounds like your determined to do just that. I will be looking forward to seeing you on UA-cam as a Farrier taking care of the animals that you love so much. Good luck Crimson
Excellent Gene! Just like your hoofcaretv channel, these videos are MOST EXCELLENT.
Thank you !! My horses are barefoot, and My Barefoot trimmer gal told me I need to learn to do this myself, I really appreciate the hoof mapping, as I will use this next time on my Horse.
I don't know about how this info compares with the "latest fashion" in hoof trimming. I do know that it solved the problems I was having with an older horse recovering from Cushings. The farriers around here didn't help any and this was more in line with what I thought should happen. It gave me confidence to go ahead and it provided guidance with the details. It absolutely solved my problem so that the hoof grew out properly. Thanks!!
You mean Laminitis or Founder ?
Thank you for posting. The mapping was logical and easy to understand, very "do-able" for me with my two barefoot Arabs.
These guys explain how to symmetrical trim a hoof based on the each individual hoof itself. Hope it helps. May God Bless You.
I appreciate the hoof mapping specifics! Thank you.
@LowkeeLT - If I understand your first question correctly, I believe you don't want to rasp away the thin, protective coating on the outside of the hoof up near the coronet or rasp at the top third of the hoof which this guy doesn't. Rasping the outside of the hoof further down (closer to where the hoof touches the ground) is done to correct flares and other things.
So good
Thank you so much
As a Mission Farrier School grad I approve this video and try to mimic this type of barefoot trim every day. My barefoot horses aren't ever lame so the horses kinda back up the trim.
Excellent. Thank you.
Does this suggest that many horses stay sound despite, the Farrier's efforts, rather than because of them?
The bars are curved and long pressing on the aterial supply to the frog and unless part 3 addresses this, the frog will continue to strangulate and be subject to bacterial and fungal infection.
your first measurement of the ratio of ideally 50/50 was taken from the heel to the WPOF then WPOF to breakover. When you measured in part 2 it was from dimple in frog to WPOF, the heels are forward of this. Please explain.
The back of the frog was now higher than the heel (meaning closer to the ground when the foot comes into the ground or makes initial ground contact), so it is now the rear-most weight bearing structure. Hope that helps.
Good for new horse owners
very good horse btw.
I gotta know. Where can I get a caliper/divider like that? It's perfect. Thank you for your consideration.
It is the JH Dividers from JH Forge. You can find them at several farrier supply stores or at www.shopedss.com
many good practices re the apex of frog and findint the widest part of the the foot, but the info that quarters just have wall to supply protection is wrong as ideally they come down to the water line. using the wall as support is farrier practice and does put stress on the coronary band which would not occur naturally in barefoot wild horse
I was also worried about the excesses fixing of the shape by rasping the outside wall, dosn't seem sensible to weeken it that way and possible create more and bigger flares in time... The lady with channel thehappyhoof explains this a bit and I've learn't lots from there.
no one talks about mapping hind hooves..is it the same ??
Yes, for the most part mapping the hind feet is the same. Often times the hind foot is about a half size to a whole size smaller than the front foot on the same horse, so you have to take that into account, but your only talking about 1/16" or 1/8" difference in the measurements. You will also find that of the 3 methods to locate the widest part of the foot, on hind feet the measurement back from the frog apex and the termination of the bars are more accurate and used more frequently than the actual widest part of the sole. This is probably due to the shape the coffin bone and the wall distortions that are more common in hind feet (flaring heel quarters). Aside from that the process is the same. However, the breakover point you apply with your shoe or trim might be further forward on some hind feet depending on footing and use. The mapping is there to help guide you in locating the internal structures so that you can make the best choice on what you need to do to each foot. How you use that information to apply shoes or trim the foot are things that you do based on many factor and your experiences.
Everybody seems to have issue with rasping of flair. If u don't take down flair, the wall will pull away from the white line over time & cause separation. An untended flair will cause the foot to splay. To much splay equals separation equals white line disease. As long as u don't rasp the very white upper periople, the hoof integrity is perfectly intact.
This hoof was even showing a little of that separation at the front pillars. Had he left that flair, the separation would have worsened over time.
Flare...
I don't agree with rasping from the outside. All you're doing is thinning and weakening the roof wall without really addressing the flare. The REASON for flaring is WHAT?? It's bearing a lot of weight because the toe is too long and there's no heel support. All this trim did is trim off hoof and re-create the EXACT same load points that cause that side flaring, and although not severe and doubtful that it ever would - the dorsal hoof/pastern angle is undercut putting strain on all internal anatomy potentially causing problems
I notice you rasped pretty much all of the hoof wall. Isn't that bad for the hoof, to remove that hoof coating which is on the hoof wall?
I've been trimming my barefoot horse to be flat against the ground. I'll be sure try out your "twin peaks" method and see how she responds while riding. Anything to make her more comfortable. A happy horse means an enjoyable ride :)
thank you! helped me really understand the need for mapping! And the importance of being accurate to find the true of middle. But you lost me when you rasped off the dorsal wall at the pillars :( nature doesn't do that...nature does bevel so I believe that a more agressive bevel at those points would hve been in order with natural barefootedness then maintaining the bevel until the foot corrects by growth. still...this video gave me much more true info and i appreciate your consise direction.
hey, what can I do if one hoof wont grow
More details...how long, which hoof, injury, what are you feeding? Impossible that it's not growing. If the hoof weren't growing this means no circulation which means the hoof would be lame
@@dr.mikejohnson571 : i didn't know since yet that there is special food for each hoof available. Front right, front left, ... maybe there's more specialized food for better heels or better sole? Do you sell it? Prize... no problem! Should i feed the different hooves at different times over the whole day? Please help me! I'm really desperate...
No, he should not have filed off the shine, he should have trimmed off the hoof at 45 degrees to eliminate the gap of the white line...
Right! And never ride your horse in the sand because this will do the same to the "shine"!
WOW
Можно видео с переводом на русский? Пожалуйста..
I know this trim video is very old now and two things are visibly wrong with it. The first is dressing the live hoof wall to try and fix anything. This damages the integrity of the hoof capsule dramatically and should never be done. The second is trying to create a false break over point by trimming in a break over instead of wearing it in will cause the pedal bone to shift downwards.
The other problem with this type of solar hoof mapping is it is in 2D, where the hoof is a 3D structure you should never trim to the visible sole plane as you are repeating the mistakes of the previous farrier which will destroy the edge of the pedal bone.
I learned this style of markup 14 years ago and have found its faults. It is great for describing a foot in reference points but they like a photo are only 2D. Do Not trim to the sole plane.
After all the excessive details focusing on the bottom of the foot and potential dynamics there, you end up with an elongated extremely thin toe and no heel producing an undercut hoof pastern angle as shown with the horse's hoof on a flat surface at 9:27 😳 (the last image is taken at a 30° front angle and doesn't show the actual angle from a 90° view, but you can still see the undercut hoof/pastern angle, no heel support and the thinned out long toe). All the measurements of the bottom of the hoof aren't addressing the critical need: An unbroken line/no angulation between the dorsal hoof and the pastern. You say the hoof shouldn't be square - best thing for this horse after your trim would be to square off the toe and put a shoe on with at least 1/2" lift at the heel to square up the the hoof with the pastern. Not meaning to be critical - your skills and knowledge far exceed mine, but after all the important issues you address you end up with some issues that even in my relative ignorance are glaring 😳
Sehr schade, dass ich nicht alles verstehen kann u es soetwas nicht in deutsch gibt, ....
John? Assamstadt?
Nein
The bars are bad trimmed and curved, the heels are too long and the wall has a different height on the sides. Not really useful trimming. It´s uncomfortable for the horse.
that because you left them high then toke all the strength out of the outer wall by rasping it down please people don't do that you are only going to hurt the horse if you rocker it a little and not as much toe. I was doing he's trim my horse stopped running after 2 or 3 rocker trims she started rite after a trim and hasn't stopped.
I think that I can figure out why so many horses turn up lame. Ferriers all think that they are doing the right thing when they are not. Get it together guys, the horse's life is at stake. You are all supposed to be professionals. If I was a horse owner, I would be worried. I think that I would have to go get myself certified to be a ferrier.
+~Crimson Critter~ what's this lameness? Is this some kind of disease in the hoof? I was always confused with this since no one gives clear information
I really don't believe this guy knows what he's doing; old school knowledge, no new skills, techniques or discovery. The horse is NOT suppose to support it's weight on the wall of the hoof, that does a lot of internal, irreversible damage, the wall is meant to keep the hoof in tact (coffin bone), the bottom, sole is suppose to support the horse's weight; ignorance, next he'll tell every one that crack is the new coffee.
Noreen Mooney The horse bears on the wall and the sole as well as the frog. No horse walks on a completely flat unyielding surface all the time. The impression into the ground creates contact. The contact on both parts will vary depending on the surface. Generally speaking, The hoof wall is designed to have more consistent active contact and the sole more passive contact.
you lost me when you started filing the hoof wall. lost all credibility. bye.
stupid comment
Whats wrong about filing the hoof wall?
mhhh it's the way and how high he filed for sure ... I can see that, too. It's an important structure, too.
ixruxr It's thin.
terry brown have you never seen a foot get dressed?