Word of advice, whenever dealing with any chemical based weed-killer it's best to always protect yourself. Wear long sleeve shirts, pants, boots, full rubber gloves and a respirator mask. These products use chemicals that are highly potent, can be poisonous and cause cancer. Remember to always protect yourself when applying them, you might look foolish or get hot but you will be safe. That product worked awesome.
Crabgrass is an annual, not a perennial. The crabgrass you see this year, if you do not spray, will never come back. What will come back next year as crabgrass are the millions of seeds last year's crabgrass left behind. That is why you want to use a preemergent to eradicate the seed production in the early spring before the ground temperature comes up to 55 degrees. Get a meat probe thermometer and pierce the ground to assure your temperature of the soil hasn't risen beyond 55 degrees. If it has, your seed production of crabgrass and other weed seeds have begun germination. As Dave K suggested, use Prodiamine as a good preemergent to prevent seeds from proliferating, and spray before ground temperature hits 55 degrees. Do this every year to keep crabgrass away from your yard.
I have a large front yard that was once overrun with crabgrass. I've been using Quin-Way, a selective herbicide for crabgrass. It works extremely well and doesn't harm my cool-season grasses (kentucky blue & fescue). After spot treating with Quin-Way for the past few years, I no longer have a crabgrass problem. My routine is to use a pre-emergent in late March, feed in June. Then to knock down any weeds in August, then core aerate, overseed, and apply a starter fertilizer in early September. Then lots of water. Feed again in November. The lawn looks amazing now.
Please Read and Heed! As hard as I tried in the past to get rid of crabgrass once it had already came up, it was a never-ending battle. I never wanted to listen to the lawn industry experts and apply a "pre-emergent" in the fall before the next spring and summer season, which ensures the crabgrass seeds can't germinate. After several years of fighting the onslaught of crabgrass, I gave up and decided to take the advice last Fall.....I'll tell you one thing, I could punch myself for being so stubborn about not taking the direction in the beginning. If you have crabgrass in the summer and its just a few here and there, just pull them and bag them to not scatter seeds. Once its Fall and the temp's start cooling down to highs only in the upper 70's, either call a local Lawn Service and get them out to put down Pre-Emergent (it really covers most all weeds and unwanted grasses) or get to your big box store and pick up some Pre-Emergent that goes right on the end of your water hose. Get enough bottles to cover your yard square footage, and having a little extra on it won't hurt. You won't see anything happen to the current onslaught if you have it, or if you only had some minor areas and think you're okay for next year...but either way, go ahead and do the treatment on your entire lawn...regardless if it was major or minor. As long as you get it on properly, you WILL NOT see the crabgrass(and hardly any if at all other weeds) return to the treated areas. Please come back to this post afterward and tell me how you didn't have crabgrass the following year! Quit pulling crabgrass and other weeds once they've already appeared, hoping it won't come back again next year!!!!!!
I think the crabgrass encroaching on my lawn died from neglect. We're under watering restrictions in California due to the drought. As a result, my perennial ryegrass lawn went dormant and turned yellow during the summer. Last winter the lawn bounced back with the rain, but the crabgrass didn't make it.
Dish soap is what I used in my Crop Sprayer too. It does NOT "Make the chemical "Stick" to the plant" What it in fact DOES is break the tension in the water's Surface. Take a glass of water, put a fuzzy piece of wool on the water and it will float. Put one drop of Dish Soap on the inside of the glass and let it run down until it touches the water and watch the wool SINK. It's the tension of the water that is broken down.
Sooooo, what’s your point? Did you think we all needed a lesson on surface tension? Does it mean that a water spider will sink with detergent in the water?
It’s perhaps a matter of semantics, however the man is actually correct in his explanation. Perhaps a more scientific explanation than you are comfortable with. You can actually float a small sewing needle on the surface of tap water and observe the curvature of the water next to the needle. That is an example of “surface tension”. Add a the Dawn detergent to the water and the needle will sink. With dawn detergent added the solution will spread along the the plants waxy leaf surface and not bead up here and there. It does not stick like glue or tape.Makes it MUCH more effective. I hope this helps others by giving a clearer explanation of what adding a detergent to the spray solution accomplishes.
Great, helpful video. To others, you must overseed and water the heck out of it, so the weeds have no room to come back. That’s the most important step otherwise you’ll be back doing the same thing next season.
It's the same really if you hoe it out, or use your chemicals - since you're gonna have to re-seed, or re-turf anyway. At least hoeing makes you sweat which is good for cardio musle and general fitness. Where i live it is spider-grass that is infiltrating my lawns, but my 2 hog-pronged hoe gets under the clumps and pulls 'em up without any environmental risk.
The trick to crabgrass control is putting down a preemergent in spring before the temperature reaches 60 degrees F. I use a Scott's "triple action" weed, feed and crabgrass control! I had lawn service that did nothing but grow more crabgrass. Scott's may be more expensive but well worth the money! I put the preemergent down in early March and again in May and NO; I don't get anything from Scott's! Walmart was cheaper than Home depot by $10.00 on a 15000 sq. ft. bag.
I live in northern VA and crabgrass is dormant during winter. To cure crabgrass that yearI normally spread lots of crabgrass preventer Preen in the spring around April, i can prevent 98% of crabgrass the whole year. Need to do it every spring. It cost you only less than $25 for a 8000 ft lawn.
Whenever dish detergent is required Dawn is always always the brand that is specified. What is so unique about Dawn as compared with other brands? I have wondered about this for a long time.
I’m cheap. I used to buy anything cheap. Generic stuff, dollar store stuff and even I realized it kinda sucked. My GF was doing dishes, and told me I needed to get Dawn. I took her word and bought some. It’s far superior to anything I was using.
Cuts through grease and oils. They really do use it to clean the feathers of waterfowl that swim into patches of spilled crude oil. Also use it on yourself in the shower WITH LUKEWARM WATER if you think you've been exposed to poison ivy/oak/sumac.
The original Dawn was miscible in oils in any proportion. You could mix, for example, diesel and Dawn and it looked just like diesel. Then you could add this mix to water and it would instantly emulsify. On the recommendation of our state University extension weed scientists I have used this emulsion with herbicides on weeds. Other liquid detergents I tried either didn't appear to mix or only to a limited extent. I believe the ratio of nonionic to cationic surfactants is the reason for the difference. Two more points. That Dawn/diesel mix is a cheap and outstanding cleaner for oily dirt on tractors and machinery. And finally, since retiring from farming I haven't tested the new versions of Dawn.
Nothing new about Trimec. Most stores carry similar products. I've found that Tractor Supply is a good source for chemicals of all types. You still have a zillion seeds in the ground that will grow new plants in the spring. It is an annual plant. One crabgrass plant can have 5,000 seeds. If you don't use a pre-emergence fertilizer in the spring, you'll be right back where you started. Timing is EVERYTHING when using these. Use earlier around sidewalks, driveways etc where the ground warms more quickly and again later when the ground gets to about 55 degrees, I think. If you just have a few plants, just pull them out for free. They won't have time to grow back enough to go to seed.
Small areas or big just use Arm & Hammer baking soda. A light sprinkling. Next day dead. Problem is dead spots. So rake it out add some good dirt, then seed or plugs.
Thanks I to have a crab grass mess in one part of my front lawn. My questuion is I have a craig mertial tree that has this bad grass around it. Will the killer to crab grass kill or damage this tree or do I take out all grass around tree w/ its 2 foot circle around tree now & avoiding spraying around tree?
Looks like a fine job … for your geographical area and grass type that you sprayed. Here in Southwest Florida, this Crabgrass killer would also do so here … but also the less hearty hot season grasses …!
I have All My Back Yard Cover With CrabGrass, It Has 4 Colors, Green, Red, Purple And Orange Looks Beautiful And 6 Inches Blades, it is Stronger Than St Augustine And Supports Sun With No Water. Amén.
After spending almost a hundred bucks on something that doesn't work, and spraying for months with almost no success, I've been looking for something that really works. This kill looks fantastic, I will give this stuff a try. Thanks for the great video. And by the way, there is no film in your camera.
You'll love it, and then you will get crabgrass again. Preemergent in the spring will slow it down, accept it will return in the late summer, it then dies off in the winter, and then you do it all over again. If you stop it in the spring, the summer return is minor actually.
This may seem like a stupid question but after the crabgrass is killed what are the next steps? Did you dig them out or just soil and seed? I want try but I need to know what I should do to follow it up. Thank you for the video!
Either way will work. As long as the crab grass is dead it will decompose over time while keeping the soil covered and preventing children or animals from stepping into the mud when the lawn is watered and the surrounding grass will grow into its place at the same time. Digging it up and replacing the lost soil with top soil and covering it with dried peat moss or something similar will do the same thing and may allow the surrounding grass to grow into the spot a little faster.
We have a large lawn over 44,600 sq ft of lawn that has been overran with crab grass. I was wondering if this stuff can be used in a pull behind 25 gal sprayer? Did you de-thatch your yard after killing the grab grass?
Yes, I dethatched afterward. That's a large lawn, but I feel pretty confident it would work with your pull behind sprayer provided that it was mixed correctly. Just remember to use some Dawn in your mix. It definitely works better with it.
premergent dont work if you are overseeding and in some locales you have to overseed annually since the soil and stress is too much and grass naturally dies no matter what
Many herbicides will damage desirable grass when temperatures get out of the recommended range. What is the recommended temperature range from the product label?
Using Green Light Crabgrass Killer on St. Augustine grass is not recommended. The most common active ingredient in many crabgrass herbicides, including those by Green Light, is quinclorac, which is known to be harmful to St. Augustine grass. Instead, herbicides like Celsius WG and Atrazine are considered safer options for controlling crabgrass in St. Augustine lawns
I hate to be THAT guy, but you're selling yourself short when you say Dawn helps because it's a "surfactant". That's not really why it helps, in fact you actually DON'T want a soapy surfactant because it will foam up as soon as it's touched. Dawn helps simply because it sticks to the foliage. Since Dawn blends well with other water based products, it basically creates a mixture that will stay in place as soon as it contacts the grass blades. Until of course, the SURFACTANT quality foams up, disperses, and your precious mixture falls off. Cheers.
Treat early spring! Pre-emergent. Your lawn will look like crap with all the spots if you wait. Healthy grass will not come back until the next spring.
Doing a pre-emergent is the way to go. My lawn has essentially no crabgrass this summer and my neighbors have it throughout their lawns. Then there will be the die-off this fall of the crabgrass and the reseeding for the next summer's crop of crabgrass. It just progressively keeps getting worse without preemptive action in the spring.
@@longbeard1188 When I was fertilizing my lawn, I used Scotts with crabgrass pre-emergent spring mix with mixed results. I finally gave up about five years ago and just hired a local fertilizer company to fertilize my lawn. They lay down a pre-emergent before the lilac bushes bloom in the spring (key timing point). It took a few years to get it under control but no more crabgrass this year while my neighbors have gobs of it.
Why is it when I look around my neighborhood, I see soooo much crabgrass? All these folks chopping their lawn so short, like a golfing green, then watering it down every day. They will live to regret their over-zealous mowing!
Karen. Thank you for this comment. I am being over run by crab grass and I was doing those exact things. I had no idea. I changed my lawn care procedures recently, for a different reason, but it looks like I'll also benefit with less crab grass.
You sound like Chris Hansen. I wonder what happened to the rabbit that was the first part of the video. Hey great video, thank you! I am going to try the Dawn part with my sprayer & Poison Ivy & Sumac Killer spray. That stuff seems to need a ton of applications. Thank you!
What I did was to rake it as after it browned, roots are dead so don't worry about them. I don't get crazy but try to get enough up to allow the grass to breathe and thus spread (mostly will happen in the spring and you want to spread a preemergent crabgrass preventer when the Forsythias bloom).
Does this kill crabgrass down to the root? I can kill crabgrass by watering it, then shaking baking soda on it. But that only burns off the foliage and does not kill it all the way to the root. The insidious thing about crabgrass is that if you only kill the foliage, the root will regenerate and the plant will be twice as big when it comes back in a month or two. And the other bad thing about crabgrass is that when you pull it out of the ground, the little root nodules will break off underground and now you'll have hundreds of NEW crabgrass plants all ready to get revenge for their parent that you just pulled out. The best way to kill crabgrass is to use a pre-emergent, like many have said below. The second-best way would be to kill it all the way to the root and let it die in place. I know that Roundup works on crabgrass, but I don't want to also kill the lawn. I know that "Weed Out" will kill it too, but a strong plant will survive 2 or even 3 treatments with Weed Out. I need something that will kill it to the root in just 1 or 2 treatments.
An early spring pre-emergent is the best way to deal with crabgrass. Once your soil temp reaches about 55 degrees, lay down the pre-emergent and the crabgrass will not return. May take a couple seasons to get it all though. I have to say that I am quite surprised at the effectiveness of this product though. I have never seen anything that kills active crabgrass without killing your lawn as well. Good find.
After the CG is dead, what’s the best way to deal with it. Tear it out and fertilize, seed the areas? I’ve seen several methods. I have some huge chucks that will leave large bare areas.
What type of turf do you have ? I have the same issue where at keat 40 percent of my small lawn os crab grass now ; but not sure what to do after spraying a weed killer ,, is scalping and reseeding the way to proceed ?
@3:30 I BELIEVE that... IM SEEING... BUNNIES!!. Question, so this only targets the CG? I have a Scotts Sun/Shade mix (Fescue) and I would be hesitant to do a lawn spray, else if I need to do a controlled targeted spray. Thank you
This is old but make sure you know if it requires an IONIC or NON-IONIC surfactant! I use Arm & Hammer liquid laundry soap for my NON-IONIC surfactant which IS required for my weed spraying sessions as I am going after the irritating (hard to kill) pea pod hitch hikers w/ Fahrenheit which works great... DAWN is IONIC. Did you research your options? I will be going after my crabgrass that is attempting to hide in my St. Augustine lawn...I don't think a surfactant is needed as crabgrass don't have a waxy covering as St. Augustine and others have. A surfactant is for sticking and dissolving the waxy protective outer layer of the grass blade. And be sure to do this in temps below 80 degrees to make sure the receptors are open. Thanks for this video.
THE PROBLEM IS WHEN YOU HAVE TOO MUCH CRABGRASS THERE'S VERY LITTLE GOOD GRASS LEFT. YOU MIGHT AS WELL GO AHEAD AND JUST KILL IT ALL AND RESEED OR PUT DOWN SOD.
Ok- but your grass looks really BAD at the end of the video- like BURNT patches all over. You will have to buy new squares of sod for a huge section of your yard! Also- I don't think you should EVER use DAWN on your grass! Years ago we put DAWN on our car mats on the driveway that were full of mud. Used a few drops of DAWN, then a power washer nozzle on our garden hose. Did it on our driveway, but accidentally squirted our grass too. Grass then died due to Dawn. Yes- we washed it off and sprinklers, still killed the grass. You use A LOT of DAWN in this video.
I have a better suggestion.....throw away all your chemicals and plant Zoysia grass. You have plenty of sunshine in the plot shown. Zoysia needs no feeding or crab grass killers. Nor does it need a great deal of watering. It grows slow so it basically cuts mowing by 1/3. It also grows roots so thick moles can't get through it, AND crabgrass can't get through the tight root system either. And finally once Zoysia has established itself, it's like walking on a carpet. I planted Zoysia in my very large lawn about 25 years ago. Yes it is slow growing and doesn't like shade much. It's so carpet like my dog loves walking on it and doing her thing on it. Her urine will burn grass like on any lawn. One drawback on folks who like a beautiful lawn 12 months a year, Zoysia goes dormant during my cold climate winter in Mi. It simply turns brown, but comes right back at the first signs of spring. Who cares winter colors are yucky anyway!
Wow that looked easy. I should have done that myself. I'm a new home owner and my large backyard was full of weeds and crab grass. First I started digging the crab up and making holes, then I got a weed puller and started yanking them all out manually. Did section at a time and then laid down lawn soil, re seeded and just started from scratch and my lawn now has patches of new healthy grass growing and I'm still working on a few more sections. Lots of hard work to restore a lawn let me tell you but it's getting there. Can't wait to watch your next video. A+++ Thumbs Up! : ))
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. I recorded this video last Summer and I've been watching to see if I had any major crabgrass issues this year. I'm happy to say, I have not had a resurgence of crabgrass. Other than needing more rain right now, the lawn is looking great. Hope things are going well for you too!
@@jnstange Thanks brother! Love your style of channel that you have. I've been a UA-camr forever with gaming, entertainment, music, and tons of stuff etc. but never in my life did I ever expect to subscribe to a great community of lawn and garden related channels here and home improvement stuff. As a brand new home owner it changes you as I now take pride in everything I do in making, fixing, repairing etc from inside and outside and all your videos as well as others make a difference and it's not only fun but helpful and educational and just kicks ass. It feels great once you finish a project and take a step back and look at what you created or finished and just smile at what all the hard work shows that paid off. This may sound silly but it just makes you feel good and plus you get to show off your home and lawn etc. I find myself watching more videos on lawn repair, conditioning, etc. than I do in music, video games, cooking...(well cooking and lawn repair are equally tied lol) than any other videos not. Once you start a project in lawn stuff it becomes addicting especially if you have time to work on it. I just love it and I always appreciate great video editing and narration from great guys like you that make videos fun to watch to fix things. Once again sorry for the long comment but I just work, shop and come home with my family and work on the lawn during this stay at home pandemic. I just subbed to yet another great channel from you. A+++
As soon as I've seen the Dawn I was in .. the shit is it .. spray the Dawn mixed with water 150 to one every 10 days on your lawn or after it's rained and any mosquitoes you may have had will disappear .. I swear this is helped in my shower bathroom sinks and kitchen sinks whenever they backed up I just poured dawn liberally right into the drain let it sit 5-10 minutes and flushed with as hot as water as I could .. and dawn also cleaned a bong I let go for far to long , I mean thick with tar , without much effort in a half hour .. Crystal Clean as the day I bought it .. I swear Dawn is the new Duct Tape ..🖖
Kool but where can i buy this product I checked prices and are very expensive $52.41 where is the link you said you gonna post about good deals prices. Thanks fir share your video.
It is a great product but it seems like the crabgrass had overtaken your lawn from the looks of it. If you had used a preemergent herbicide, like Halts, in the spring you wouldn't need to keep using this product every summer. An ounce of prevention...
Hi - how long do I wait to let my puppy go out on the grass after I spray it? Is it harmful to them? The back yard is covered with crabgrass - crazy year. The backyard is her playground- thank you
What people need to look at, regardless of the brand name, is look at the ingredient percentage. Example..look at Roundup. The active ingredient percentage from a big box store is 1/10th of 1% active ingredient. So you’re getting 99% water or carrier. You need at least 44% ai before it does what Roundup does. Your big box store Roundup costs ... say $30.00 or less, depending on the size container, whereas the 44% percent will run over a 100.00. So...just look at the labels ai percent no matter the chemical brand name. Your weeds will hate you for that. Lastly..always read the label and make sure the weed you have, is listed on the label.
@@ricktufts3643 Trinmec label shows: 2,4-D diminethylamine salt 6.42% Quinclorac 2.13% Dicamba, dimethylamine salt 0.60% Inert ing. 90.5% Ortho Weed Killer for Lawns with Crabgrass Control is EXACTLY the same
I'm new to having my own lawn to care for. Do you have to dig up that crabgrass or anything else to it between using the weed killer and doing the seeding process?
How do you replant new grass after it’s dead? Do you have to dig up the dead crabgrass or does it just eventually die and disintegrate? Would you till it then plant new grass?
WHERE DO YOU BUY IT??? I can't find it anywhere on line. I've been trying to get rid of my crabgrass for 20 years. All I've been told is " you have to dig it up".
Thanks for your video! Will this product not harm bermuda grass? And I think what I have is crabgrass but I am not 100% certain, how can I make sure? And I am guessing any soap will do it as a surfactant right? Sorry for all the questions at once man! Thanks and regards, Luis.
I tried a similar product on my crab grass. It worked as advertised, but also trashed every other plant whose roots were under the grass. Grape vines, fruit trees, and bushes. They did eventually recover after looking really sick for a couple of months.
This product really works! Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
way 2 go
@@jnstange will it work on buttercup? Thank you and God bless
Word of advice, whenever dealing with any chemical based weed-killer it's best to always protect yourself. Wear long sleeve shirts, pants, boots, full rubber gloves and a respirator mask. These products use chemicals that are highly potent, can be poisonous and cause cancer. Remember to always protect yourself when applying them, you might look foolish or get hot but you will be safe.
That product worked awesome.
@@nriqueogany opinion on Safer's brand, etc. "organic" sprays ?
Crabgrass is an annual, not a perennial. The crabgrass you see this year, if you do not spray, will never come back. What will come back next year as crabgrass are the millions of seeds last year's crabgrass left behind. That is why you want to use a preemergent to eradicate the seed production in the early spring before the ground temperature comes up to 55 degrees. Get a meat probe thermometer and pierce the ground to assure your temperature of the soil hasn't risen beyond 55 degrees. If it has, your seed production of crabgrass and other weed seeds have begun germination. As Dave K suggested, use Prodiamine as a good preemergent to prevent seeds from proliferating, and spray before ground temperature hits 55 degrees. Do this every year to keep crabgrass away from your yard.
If I killed the crabgrass in my yard I would not have a lawn .....
I know exactly what you mean
LOL! Me too!
I wish. Till and reseed is a great solution
@@clevelandmortician3887 - I tilled mine and it got worse.
@@eddie054 yes I could definitely see tilling spreading seeds. Mine was only about a 20x10 area.
I have a large front yard that was once overrun with crabgrass. I've been using Quin-Way, a selective herbicide for crabgrass. It works extremely well and doesn't harm my cool-season grasses (kentucky blue & fescue). After spot treating with Quin-Way for the past few years, I no longer have a crabgrass problem. My routine is to use a pre-emergent in late March, feed in June. Then to knock down any weeds in August, then core aerate, overseed, and apply a starter fertilizer in early September. Then lots of water. Feed again in November. The lawn looks amazing now.
Please Read and Heed! As hard as I tried in the past to get rid of crabgrass once it had already came up, it was a never-ending battle. I never wanted to listen to the lawn industry experts and apply a "pre-emergent" in the fall before the next spring and summer season, which ensures the crabgrass seeds can't germinate. After several years of fighting the onslaught of crabgrass, I gave up and decided to take the advice last Fall.....I'll tell you one thing, I could punch myself for being so stubborn about not taking the direction in the beginning. If you have crabgrass in the summer and its just a few here and there, just pull them and bag them to not scatter seeds. Once its Fall and the temp's start cooling down to highs only in the upper 70's, either call a local Lawn Service and get them out to put down Pre-Emergent (it really covers most all weeds and unwanted grasses) or get to your big box store and pick up some Pre-Emergent that goes right on the end of your water hose. Get enough bottles to cover your yard square footage, and having a little extra on it won't hurt. You won't see anything happen to the current onslaught if you have it, or if you only had some minor areas and think you're okay for next year...but either way, go ahead and do the treatment on your entire lawn...regardless if it was major or minor. As long as you get it on properly, you WILL NOT see the crabgrass(and hardly any if at all other weeds) return to the treated areas. Please come back to this post afterward and tell me how you didn't have crabgrass the following year! Quit pulling crabgrass and other weeds once they've already appeared, hoping it won't come back again next year!!!!!!
What does the lawn look like 2 or 3 weeks out? Are the crabgrass spots just bare dirt?
The spots where I killed crabgrass were reseeded with new seed. If I didn't do that, it would have been somewhat bare.
Next year put prodiamine down in the spring when the ground temperature hits 55 degrees. You will not have such a big problem with crabgrass
Thanks for the suggestion. I posted this video last year, and thankfully, I haven't had much of a problem with lawn weeds since.
Before the ground temps reach 55
I didn't know Chris Hanson from "To Catch a Predator" had a lawn care channel...LOL
HAHAHAHAHAHA Chris Hanson's "To catch a crab" Lawn Series
Hahaha, hilarious!
Hahaha, hilarious!
What exactly is going on here??? 😂
Guy does have a great voice
Great video! Quick question, what season did you apply the concentrate on? Thanks!
I think the crabgrass encroaching on my lawn died from neglect. We're under watering restrictions in California due to the drought. As a result, my perennial ryegrass lawn went dormant and turned yellow during the summer. Last winter the lawn bounced back with the rain, but the crabgrass didn't make it.
Crab grass is an annual.
Could you do a follow up video so we can see how your lawn looks now?
Dish soap is what I used in my Crop Sprayer too. It does NOT "Make the chemical "Stick" to the plant" What it in fact DOES is break the tension in the water's Surface. Take a glass of water, put a fuzzy piece of wool on the water and it will float. Put one drop of Dish Soap on the inside of the glass and let it run down until it touches the water and watch the wool SINK. It's the tension of the water that is broken down.
Sooooo, what’s your point? Did you think we all needed a lesson on surface tension?
Does it mean that a water spider will sink with detergent in the water?
It’s perhaps a matter of semantics, however the man is actually correct in his explanation. Perhaps a more scientific explanation than you are comfortable with. You can actually float a small sewing needle on the surface of tap water and observe the curvature of the water next to the needle. That is an example of “surface tension”. Add a the Dawn detergent to the water and the needle will sink. With dawn detergent added the solution will spread along the the plants waxy leaf surface and not bead up here and there. It does not stick like glue or tape.Makes it MUCH more effective. I hope this helps others by giving a clearer explanation of what adding a detergent to the spray solution accomplishes.
I don’t have wool.
Great, helpful video. To others, you must overseed and water the heck out of it, so the weeds have no room to come back. That’s the most important step otherwise you’ll be back doing the same thing next season.
I have more crabgrass than grass after using a fertilizer/weed killer in the spring
It's the same really if you hoe it out, or use your chemicals - since you're gonna have to re-seed, or re-turf anyway. At least hoeing makes you sweat which is good for cardio musle and general fitness. Where i live it is spider-grass that is infiltrating my lawns, but my 2 hog-pronged hoe gets under the clumps and pulls 'em up without any environmental risk.
The trick to crabgrass control is putting down a preemergent in spring before the temperature reaches 60 degrees F. I use a Scott's "triple action" weed, feed and crabgrass control! I had lawn service that did nothing but grow more crabgrass. Scott's may be more expensive but well worth the money! I put the preemergent down in early March and again in May and NO; I don't get anything from Scott's! Walmart was cheaper than Home depot by $10.00 on a 15000 sq. ft. bag.
THAT PRODUCT ACCORDING TO SCOTTS DOES NOT KILL EXISTING CRABGRASS IT IS STRICTLY A CRABGRASS PREVENTER.
How is that on pets?
Problem with preemergent is that it kills your grass seed too if you're trying to overseed
@@NotMyActualName_ That is why I always over seed in the Fall
I live in northern VA and crabgrass is dormant during winter. To cure crabgrass that yearI normally spread lots of crabgrass preventer Preen in the spring around April, i can prevent 98% of crabgrass the whole year. Need to do it every spring. It cost you only less than $25 for a 8000 ft lawn.
Good suggestion
Whenever dish detergent is required Dawn is always always the brand that is specified. What is so unique about Dawn as compared with other brands? I have wondered about this for a long time.
Dawn is highly concentrated as compared to other DWL
I’m cheap.
I used to buy anything cheap. Generic stuff, dollar store stuff and even I realized it kinda sucked.
My GF was doing dishes, and told me I needed to get Dawn.
I took her word and bought some. It’s far superior to anything I was using.
It works!
Cuts through grease and oils. They really do use it to clean the feathers of waterfowl that swim into patches of spilled crude oil. Also use it on yourself in the shower WITH LUKEWARM WATER if you think you've been exposed to poison ivy/oak/sumac.
The original Dawn was miscible in oils in any proportion. You could mix, for example, diesel and Dawn and it looked just like diesel. Then you could add this mix to water and it would instantly emulsify. On the recommendation of our state University extension weed scientists I have used this emulsion with herbicides on weeds. Other liquid detergents I tried either didn't appear to mix or only to a limited extent. I believe the ratio of nonionic to cationic surfactants is the reason for the difference.
Two more points. That Dawn/diesel mix is a cheap and outstanding cleaner for oily dirt on tractors and machinery. And finally, since retiring from farming I haven't tested the new versions of Dawn.
Thanks for the video. Did you have to remove the dead crabgrass when it was completely dead?
Once it's dead and dried you can rake it out and then re seed.
Nothing new about Trimec. Most stores carry similar products. I've found that Tractor Supply is a good source for chemicals of all types.
You still have a zillion seeds in the ground that will grow new plants in the spring. It is an annual plant. One crabgrass plant can have 5,000 seeds.
If you don't use a pre-emergence fertilizer in the spring, you'll be right back where you started. Timing is EVERYTHING when using these. Use earlier around sidewalks, driveways etc where the ground warms more quickly and again later when the ground gets to about 55 degrees, I think.
If you just have a few plants, just pull them out for free. They won't have time to grow back enough to go to seed.
Small areas or big just use Arm & Hammer baking soda. A light sprinkling. Next day dead. Problem is dead spots. So rake it out add some good dirt, then seed or plugs.
Wil this kill my grass??
Thanks I to have a crab grass mess in one part of my front lawn. My questuion is I have a craig mertial tree that has this bad grass around it. Will the killer to crab grass kill or damage this tree or do I take out all grass around tree w/ its 2 foot circle around tree now & avoiding spraying around tree?
Looks like a fine job … for your geographical area and grass type that you sprayed. Here in Southwest Florida, this Crabgrass killer would also do so here … but also the less hearty hot season grasses …!
I have All My Back Yard Cover With CrabGrass,
It Has 4 Colors, Green, Red, Purple And Orange
Looks Beautiful And 6 Inches Blades, it is Stronger Than St Augustine
And Supports Sun With No Water.
Amén.
Man when I first heard this video start I could have sworn it was Dan Patrick....
:)
I was thinking Mike Rowe
The crabgrass killer at home depot will kill my centipede grass.
After spending almost a hundred bucks on something that doesn't work, and spraying for months with almost no success, I've been looking for something that really works. This kill looks fantastic, I will give this stuff a try. Thanks for the great video. And by the way, there is no film in your camera.
did you try ??? worked fine ? can you comment buddy !! ?? thanks !!
Nice speaking voice
I want to remove all my grass and replace it with turf
You'll love it, and then you will get crabgrass again. Preemergent in the spring will slow it down, accept it will return in the late summer, it then dies off in the winter, and then you do it all over again. If you stop it in the spring, the summer return is minor actually.
This may seem like a stupid question but after the crabgrass is killed what are the next steps? Did you dig them out or just soil and seed? I want try but I need to know what I should do to follow it up. Thank you for the video!
My same question.
I dig them out and then mix potting soil and play sand together with some peat moss and fill the holes.
Either way will work. As long as the crab grass is dead it will decompose over time while keeping the soil covered and preventing children or animals from stepping into the mud when the lawn is watered and the surrounding grass will grow into its place at the same time. Digging it up and replacing the lost soil with top soil and covering it with dried peat moss or something similar will do the same thing and may allow the surrounding grass to grow into the spot a little faster.
@@AlanCheak why not just pull them out to begin with and save a step.
@@saeedmckenzie7460 you will never get the entire weed and will make things worse
We have a large lawn over 44,600 sq ft of lawn that has been overran with crab grass. I was wondering if this stuff can be used in a pull behind 25 gal sprayer? Did you de-thatch your yard after killing the grab grass?
Yes, I dethatched afterward.
That's a large lawn, but I feel pretty confident it would work with your pull behind sprayer provided that it was mixed correctly. Just remember to use some Dawn in your mix. It definitely works better with it.
Great video, thanks! I have some very large areas. The mole tunnels haven’t helped the lawn. CG loves to grow and choke out those areas.
Kill grub worms, annd moles will leave. They are BOTH destroying your grass from underneath. The grub worms should be cslled Mole Grub
Still waiting on the restoration video.
Now how do you fix the lawn to look green again?
Let's prevent that crabgrass in the spring
Absolutely.
Pre emergent is everyone’s best way to control Crab Grass.
Letting the cows out of the barn and expecting them to return is fruitless.
premergent dont work if you are overseeding and in some locales you have to overseed annually since the soil and stress is too much and grass naturally dies no matter what
Tenacity. Once in a while I’ll mix in some SpeedZone.
Many herbicides will damage desirable grass when temperatures get out of the recommended range. What is the recommended temperature range from the product label?
Interested in answer
I believe it is best to apply when the temperature is under 85
Using Green Light Crabgrass Killer on St. Augustine grass is not recommended. The most common active ingredient in many crabgrass herbicides, including those by Green Light, is quinclorac, which is known to be harmful to St. Augustine grass. Instead, herbicides like Celsius WG and Atrazine are considered safer options for controlling crabgrass in St. Augustine lawns
I hate to be THAT guy, but you're selling yourself short when you say Dawn helps because it's a "surfactant". That's not really why it helps, in fact you actually DON'T want a soapy surfactant because it will foam up as soon as it's touched. Dawn helps simply because it sticks to the foliage. Since Dawn blends well with other water based products, it basically creates a mixture that will stay in place as soon as it contacts the grass blades. Until of course, the SURFACTANT quality foams up, disperses, and your precious mixture falls off.
Cheers.
Treat early spring! Pre-emergent. Your lawn will look like crap with all the spots if you wait. Healthy grass will not come back until the next spring.
Doing a pre-emergent is the way to go. My lawn has essentially no crabgrass this summer and my neighbors have it throughout their lawns. Then there will be the die-off this fall of the crabgrass and the reseeding for the next summer's crop of crabgrass. It just progressively keeps getting worse without preemptive action in the spring.
What pre emergent would you recommend?
@@longbeard1188 When I was fertilizing my lawn, I used Scotts with crabgrass pre-emergent spring mix with mixed results. I finally gave up about five years ago and just hired a local fertilizer company to fertilize my lawn. They lay down a pre-emergent before the lilac bushes bloom in the spring (key timing point). It took a few years to get it under control but no more crabgrass this year while my neighbors have gobs of it.
Why is it when I look around my neighborhood, I see soooo much crabgrass? All these folks chopping their lawn so short, like a golfing green, then watering it down every day. They will live to regret their over-zealous mowing!
Karen. Thank you for this comment. I am being over run by crab grass and I was doing those exact things. I had no idea. I changed my lawn care procedures recently, for a different reason, but it looks like I'll also benefit with less crab grass.
Nice job 👍. Keep up the good work 🙏😎🇺🇸⚓🌅
Thank you!
You sound like Chris Hansen. I wonder what happened to the rabbit that was the first part of the video. Hey great video, thank you! I am going to try the Dawn part with my sprayer & Poison Ivy & Sumac Killer spray. That stuff seems to need a ton of applications. Thank you!
tried to buy Green Light Crabgrass killer, AND Gordon's Trimec Plus. Neither is available. Any other suggestions?
just use baking soda.....lightly wet grass and sprinkle it on.....cheap and quick.. Will not damage St Augustine grass
Will it only kill the crabgrass?
@@Littlesharky-h2s yes Jo anne...will not harm st augustine..1-4 day kill..
Can you do a followup video of how you deal with the dead crabgrass and reserving your lawn? Total beginner here, so appreciate your explanations.
Yes please!
What I did was to rake it as after it browned, roots are dead so don't worry about them. I don't get crazy but try to get enough up to allow the grass to breathe and thus spread (mostly will happen in the spring and you want to spread a preemergent crabgrass preventer when the Forsythias bloom).
Can this Green Light product be safely use to kill crabgrass , While not harming Micro Clover ☘️ lawn ?
Does this kill crabgrass down to the root? I can kill crabgrass by watering it, then shaking baking soda on it. But that only burns off the foliage and does not kill it all the way to the root. The insidious thing about crabgrass is that if you only kill the foliage, the root will regenerate and the plant will be twice as big when it comes back in a month or two. And the other bad thing about crabgrass is that when you pull it out of the ground, the little root nodules will break off underground and now you'll have hundreds of NEW crabgrass plants all ready to get revenge for their parent that you just pulled out. The best way to kill crabgrass is to use a pre-emergent, like many have said below. The second-best way would be to kill it all the way to the root and let it die in place. I know that Roundup works on crabgrass, but I don't want to also kill the lawn. I know that "Weed Out" will kill it too, but a strong plant will survive 2 or even 3 treatments with Weed Out. I need something that will kill it to the root in just 1 or 2 treatments.
Even the rabbit was impressed and came to have a look. Top of the screen at 3:30.
Nice catch!
Oh my gosh, there really was a rabbit. Good eye.
anything wrong with vinegar white? thanks
Dawn soap helps liquid products stick to the waxy surface of the plant. It gives the product time to penetrate the leaf blades. Surfactants.
You sound like that dude that do some of that narrating on espn lol. But let me know what to do after the crabgrass is completely dead
Thanks! Once the weeds are dead, use a rock rake to rake them up. Then reseed the area with some good grass seed.
Why do so many similar videos talk about Dawn? Wouldn't most any dishwashing liquid brand work similarly?
An early spring pre-emergent is the best way to deal with crabgrass. Once your soil temp reaches about 55 degrees, lay down the pre-emergent and the crabgrass will not return. May take a couple seasons to get it all though. I have to say that I am quite surprised at the effectiveness of this product though. I have never seen anything that kills active crabgrass without killing your lawn as well. Good find.
After the CG is dead, what’s the best way to deal with it. Tear it out and fertilize, seed the areas? I’ve seen several methods. I have some huge chucks that will leave large bare areas.
@@flixsymmetry I just rake up the area, put a bit of top soil down, and seed.
After you reseed your lawn, next Spring put on a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer
I read to not put it down on newly seeded lawn since it will disrupt the natural growing process of the new grass.
What if your lawn is mostly crab grass,?Highl8ghted by a healthy sprinkl8ng of dandelions?
What type of turf do you have ? I have the same issue where at keat 40 percent of my small lawn os crab grass now ; but not sure what to do after spraying a weed killer ,, is scalping and reseeding the way to proceed ?
@3:30 I BELIEVE that... IM SEEING... BUNNIES!!. Question, so this only targets the CG? I have a Scotts Sun/Shade mix (Fescue) and I would be hesitant to do a lawn spray, else if I need to do a controlled targeted spray. Thank you
This is old but make sure you know if it requires an IONIC or NON-IONIC surfactant! I use Arm & Hammer liquid laundry soap for my NON-IONIC surfactant which IS required for my weed spraying sessions as I am going after the irritating (hard to kill) pea pod hitch hikers w/ Fahrenheit which works great... DAWN is IONIC. Did you research your options? I will be going after my crabgrass that is attempting to hide in my St. Augustine lawn...I don't think a surfactant is needed as crabgrass don't have a waxy covering as St. Augustine and others have. A surfactant is for sticking and dissolving the waxy protective outer layer of the grass blade. And be sure to do this in temps below 80 degrees to make sure the receptors are open. Thanks for this video.
THE PROBLEM IS WHEN YOU HAVE TOO MUCH CRABGRASS THERE'S VERY LITTLE GOOD GRASS LEFT. YOU MIGHT AS WELL GO AHEAD AND JUST KILL IT ALL AND RESEED OR PUT DOWN SOD.
Ok- but your grass looks really BAD at the end of the video- like BURNT patches all over. You will have to buy new squares of sod for a huge section of your yard! Also- I don't think you should EVER use DAWN on your grass! Years ago we put DAWN on our car mats on the driveway that were full of mud. Used a few drops of DAWN, then a power washer nozzle on our garden hose. Did it on our driveway, but accidentally squirted our grass too. Grass then died due to Dawn. Yes- we washed it off and sprinklers, still killed the grass. You use A LOT of DAWN in this video.
I have a great idea...just mow the crabgrass and call it your lawn.
So what do you do now that your lawn has brown patches all over it ? Nice video and info BTW.
I used to use this product with great results...but it appears they stopped selling it? Anyone know a source?
I have a better suggestion.....throw away all your chemicals and plant Zoysia grass. You have plenty of sunshine in the plot shown. Zoysia needs no feeding or crab grass killers. Nor does it need a great deal of watering. It grows slow so it basically cuts mowing by 1/3. It also grows roots so thick moles can't get through it, AND crabgrass can't get through the tight root system either. And finally once Zoysia has established itself, it's like walking on a carpet.
I planted Zoysia in my very large lawn about 25 years ago. Yes it is slow growing and doesn't like shade much. It's so carpet like my dog loves walking on it and doing her thing on it. Her urine will burn grass like on any lawn. One drawback on folks who like a beautiful lawn 12 months a year, Zoysia goes dormant during my cold climate winter in Mi. It simply turns brown, but comes right back at the first signs of spring. Who cares winter colors are yucky anyway!
It looks like everything died. Should do a follow up. Thanks for the video
Amazon says not avail for shipment to my area. I live in California. What is a good substitute?
Wouldn't it be easier just to plant more crab grass? You don't have to water or WEED it
Wow that looked easy. I should have done that myself. I'm a new home owner and my large backyard was full of weeds and crab grass. First I started digging the crab up and making holes, then I got a weed puller and started yanking them all out manually. Did section at a time and then laid down lawn soil, re seeded and just started from scratch and my lawn now has patches of new healthy grass growing and I'm still working on a few more sections. Lots of hard work to restore a lawn let me tell you but it's getting there. Can't wait to watch your next video. A+++ Thumbs Up! : ))
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. I recorded this video last Summer and I've been watching to see if I had any major crabgrass issues this year. I'm happy to say, I have not had a resurgence of crabgrass. Other than needing more rain right now, the lawn is looking great.
Hope things are going well for you too!
@@jnstange Thanks brother! Love your style of channel that you have. I've been a UA-camr forever with gaming, entertainment, music, and tons of stuff etc. but never in my life did I ever expect to subscribe to a great community of lawn and garden related channels here and home improvement stuff. As a brand new home owner it changes you as I now take pride in everything I do in making, fixing, repairing etc from inside and outside and all your videos as well as others make a difference and it's not only fun but helpful and educational and just kicks ass. It feels great once you finish a project and take a step back and look at what you created or finished and just smile at what all the hard work shows that paid off. This may sound silly but it just makes you feel good and plus you get to show off your home and lawn etc. I find myself watching more videos on lawn repair, conditioning, etc. than I do in music, video games, cooking...(well cooking and lawn repair are equally tied lol) than any other videos not. Once you start a project in lawn stuff it becomes addicting especially if you have time to work on it. I just love it and I always appreciate great video editing and narration from great guys like you that make videos fun to watch to fix things. Once again sorry for the long comment but I just work, shop and come home with my family and work on the lawn during this stay at home pandemic. I just subbed to yet another great channel from you. A+++
@@hektorlinko - Thank you! I really appreciate that. Wishing you all the best with your current list of projects!
Faster method....spray with gas...lite it up ! Will have a greener lawn...next year !
What was ingredients in concentrate?? I'm guessing quinclorac.
As soon as I've seen the Dawn I was in .. the shit is it .. spray the Dawn mixed with water 150 to one every 10 days on your lawn or after it's rained and any mosquitoes you may have had will disappear .. I swear this is helped in my shower bathroom sinks and kitchen sinks whenever they backed up I just poured dawn liberally right into the drain let it sit 5-10 minutes and flushed with as hot as water as I could .. and dawn also cleaned a bong I let go for far to long , I mean thick with tar , without much effort in a half hour .. Crystal Clean as the day I bought it .. I swear Dawn is the new Duct Tape ..🖖
📝 Green Light wipe out crab grass killer plus. And dawn.
But what happens now? Will the grass, I have Bermuda sod, fill in?
I propose to send crab grass with other weeds to mars think would do great there.
Kool but where can i buy this product I checked prices and are very expensive $52.41 where is the link you said you gonna post about good deals prices. Thanks fir share your video.
It is a great product but it seems like the crabgrass had overtaken your lawn from the looks of it. If you had used a preemergent herbicide, like Halts, in the spring you wouldn't need to keep using this product every summer. An ounce of prevention...
Need a longer video on the recovery of the lawn. It killed ur crab grass but now lawn looks like shit
Hi - how long do I wait to let my puppy go out on the grass after I spray it? Is it harmful to them? The back yard is covered with crabgrass - crazy year. The backyard is her playground- thank you
Bro wtf. You had so much CG..kill it all and plant sod ot hydro seed. Next stay on top of it,
Aren't the ingredients inTrimec Plus exactly the same as Ortho Weed Killer for Lawns with Crabgrass Control? Probably other products also.
What people need to look at, regardless of the brand name, is look at the ingredient percentage. Example..look at Roundup. The active ingredient percentage from a big box store is 1/10th of 1% active ingredient. So you’re getting 99% water or carrier. You need at least 44% ai before it does what Roundup does. Your big box store Roundup costs ... say $30.00 or less, depending on the size container, whereas the 44% percent will run over a 100.00.
So...just look at the labels ai percent no matter the chemical brand name. Your weeds will hate you for that. Lastly..always read the label and make sure the weed you have, is listed on the label.
@@ricktufts3643 Trinmec label shows:
2,4-D diminethylamine salt 6.42%
Quinclorac 2.13%
Dicamba, dimethylamine salt 0.60%
Inert ing. 90.5%
Ortho Weed Killer for Lawns with Crabgrass Control is EXACTLY the same
"just put a squirt, like a tablespoon" a tablespoon! lol damn that's a lot of dish soap!
Do you remove the area of crabgrass that are dead Or dying?
Maybe dethatching it ?
Does this affect the surrounding grass in anyway? Never mind, you answered this while I was typing my comment! Great video
Now what!? Lol…great info!!!
Do u happen to know if it works in heat? Above 95 or so?
Thanks again!!
Will that stuff kill other broadleaf plants as well? I have those sticker weeds and a vine that keeps coming up in my yard.
So now what? You pick them out or do you aerate and seed over top?
Bought spectracide lawn weed and crabgrass killer. Worked like a charm.
I'm new to having my own lawn to care for. Do you have to dig up that crabgrass or anything else to it between using the weed killer and doing the seeding process?
Would you recommend this product over Tenacity??
How do you replant new grass after it’s dead? Do you have to dig up the dead crabgrass or does it just eventually die and disintegrate? Would you till it then plant new grass?
If I killed the grab grass on my lawn I wouldn't have any lawn
Did you by chance spray some on the grass to see if it killed that too?
WHERE DO YOU BUY IT??? I can't find it anywhere on line. I've been trying to get rid of my crabgrass for 20 years. All I've been told is " you have to dig it up".
Thanks for your video! Will this product not harm bermuda grass? And I think what I have is crabgrass but I am not 100% certain, how can I make sure? And I am guessing any soap will do it as a surfactant right? Sorry for all the questions at once man!
Thanks and regards,
Luis.
Will it kill my grass? Is it okay to still water my lawn? When can I put down grass seed? Do I have to dig up the dead crabgrass? I appreciate you.
I tried a similar product on my crab grass. It worked as advertised, but also trashed every other plant whose roots were under the grass. Grape vines, fruit trees, and bushes. They did eventually recover after looking really sick for a couple of months.
Crabgrass is an annual, wait till the first frost it will die on it's own, reseed. Apply pre-emergent next spring.
So after the crabgrass is all dead, whats next?
It’s quackgrass I can’t kill crabgrass no problem