I’ve had a crap week too, two laptops died, my Transit van blocked its DPF and my Bridgeport Interact has an electrical problem. I’ll be glad to see the back of this week ! Great video, thanks, very interesting to someone like me who’s biggest jobs fit easily into my 2 metre lathe 😂
Aw, RIP Godzilla 😢 The long shot of the drill bit was jaw dropping, said before the rig that’s gonna run that must be huge ! Another great video, cheers 👏👏👏
Cheers Nick! Yeah, every time I wander over to fab side of the yard I’m blown away by how bit the MOAB is getting. I suspect we are going to need a 40 tonne crane to just move the bloody thing. Wild.
I know the feeling! Recently I had a part stick in a brand new fiberglass mold. I was able to save it, but it took hours trying to scrape away the epoxy that was stuck to the mold surface, without touching the mold surface. It was slightly better than starting over from scratch.
you need a name plate for the press: "The Specialist" or perhaps "El Especialista". 🤣 I think it's really cool how you name your machines and significant tools...
A ground straight tool shank in a ground rigid holder will stick like that. Any tool taper less than 8 degrees will stick. To prevent welding, the shank angle should be more than 12 degrees. Think collet or cat taper. Alternately, use a split clamp.
Yep. You’re right there. We’ve created some more clearance to see how it goes. The Hydra is running right now - no issues yet thank God. If we have any more problems in the future, it’ll be a split clamp setup for sure.
You could slit that holder down it's entire length and weld on some lugs for pinch bolts. I think this would reduce vibration and increase holding power significantly. You can slit your bushings also.
We did pretty well on all the tests, except the Kraken drill. It’s shop made so I’m getting a proper one. Will see how it runs. Might end up doing your suggestion if it vibrates. Thanks mate
Sorry things didn't quite so well for you this week. It happens.. I was working at a shop and early in the morning we had everything running. The guys were working listening to the tunes. So I was standing at the entrance with my coffee taking it all in. Then the owner came up behind me and asked what I was doing. I said look at that, everything is going well. Take a good look because it ain't gonna last... He busted up laughing and walked away. Machining and manufacturing is tough...some weeks are just better than others.... Keep rocking it!
So true 🤣🤣✌️ It’s the nature of the game. The thing I enjoy about machining the most, is the constant challenge to solve problems. I absolutely love coming to work, and wake up (most days) excited to fire up the machines and start spitting chips. There’s good days. And not so good ones. All in all, I wouldn’t swap careers with anyone right now. And I’m fortunate we’ve got a great team too. Makes all the difference working alongside men who want to work.
matt, lovely vid really interesting on the updates. one hint when rebuilding damaged surfaces always try keep the hardness's and machinabilty the same when rebuildinding. when you recut you get an even cut. this goes for whatever you using wood/plaster/weld/resin
Thank you 🙏 Should be fun to trial out the beast. It’s a bloody sturdy looking bar. Just unwrapped it and it’s spot on. The whole team worked on this one and did a bloody fantastic job
Roll on next week 😀😀Looking forward to the beast unveiling. Did a quick back of the envelope calculation: 3m drill going down 250m will remove about 5,000 tonnes of material! 😲😲
It’s wild hey. The major advantage of drilling from surface down (as opposed to traditional raise boring) is that the material just comes to the top… And doesn’t have to be carted from the bottom up. It’s why the whole mining industry is so behind the success of this project. It’s a massive time and safety improvement on all levels.
Getting everything right the first time is for sissies. Battling your way into jobs, awakening monsters, and then battling those into submission is how the hard stuff usually gets done. It builds character and imparts a lot of knowledge.
Agreed. We have a 'willing to fail' attutide. In our line of work you've gotta just get in and have a crack. Sometimes you win... sometimes you learn. The job always gets done. One way or another. It always gets done
Here's some tips. Getting tools like this to slide in and out perfectly can be done but due to the weight etc. cocking and then getting stuck is a major issue. So, sticking to this design some kind of pilot would be needed as a guide (e.g. a smaller bar sliding into the bigger bar with a centering bushing on the end). Another solution I have seen used is a slit holder where the cap can be removed completely. This makes for an extremely stable clamping, the only thing is you need to index your insert to the machine CL. Just lift you boring bars in and out with no risk of cocking, ever. Actually we have a custom made holder sitting in the shop (yes we cast our own castings) which was done this way and it holds a mega Sandvik bar (probably a silent bar) of which I am afraid to ask the price, LOL. It was used on one job and now it is collecting dus. in fact the whole thing bolts directly to the cross slide so it could not be more sturdy than this. I forgot to measure the bar dimensions, will let you know.
HI, FYI a good mate of mine who passed away used to work in the mines as driller on air shafts, elevators or any other use's that the mine's needed. Most of his work was around 3 M & on some jobs they would drill down 250 to 300 M & then drill back up at 6 M. I'm pretty sure he said 6 M, as too open up a huge cut for machinery to go down on a gold mine, all in Australia. Pretty Cool with what you can run with these Hyd powered drilling rigs.
Yep. They dig some bloody big holes for the mine shafts. The real difference with the big rig we are developing is that it drills top down using air (as compared to mud) It’s a bit safety improvement as you don’t have 5000 odd tonnes of mud sitting above an underground mine. It’s a lot faster than the big raise bore methods too. Those big rigs that do raise bores are insane. The bits are enormous!
That tool holder, you could've made it so it has a bolt down cap, use 10 9/16" ARP main studs from a engine, it should have like 100t of clamping force. Just make spacer blocks to hone it then take the blocks out to clamp it, but the cap would need to basically be a block of steel machined to fit the tool holder.
You could also use nut serts on the base so you spread the load into the base better. Drill down like 100mm from the cylinder so the pressure doesn't distort it.
Getting stuff stuck only ever happens on a Friday or at 5pm. I feel for you. To coin a uk term,…. Mingin’ We’ve got plenty of tools with lots of “character” 😂
Hi Matt, as the saying goes shit happens😳, good to see that you could save the tool holder and look on the bright side you needed a bigger bar anyway😁. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Gary. It all worked out way better than expected anyway. Godzilla getting stuck in the tool holder actually let us start from scratch and create a tool that is far, far more useful. And my tool holder looks like a Japanese teacup with some character too 🤣
That 3-meter drill would be delightful for targeting ore bodies for extraction but it would be game-changing for geothermal energy development. Quite the size for a boiler😮 Again, please keep managing to find time to produce these videos because vids like these show what trades do and it surely isn't being a robot's stand-in. With my papers, the last job I was offered would have started at $100.00/hr and 2 months paid vacation. Trades are in demand everywhere 😃👍🍻
Hey mate, yeah I think as the tech gets proven and gets more exposure… there will be a lot of possibilities for a rig that can do these type of holes. Especially when it’s drilled on air, and from the surface (as compared to mud drilling & the raise bore option) New video lands this Friday. It’s been a wild week in the shop 🤣
Me too! Haha. The trial run begins today... Haven't tried thick wall mech tubing. We've mostly just used solid 4140 bar and drilled it out / plumbed it in.
same thing happened to John Holmes when he became dependent on Peruvian Marching Dust.......sad to see Godzilla under the weather......but you will adapt and over come.......cheers from the Other Sunshine State, Florida, Paul
Cheers Paulie! Yep... I was rather fond of old Godzilla... but man - the BEAST is on another level. I woke up today excited to get in the shop and test it out.
Any 'Deadening in the bar?' We would drill out the bar and fill it with mercury. I've heard pouring molten sodium into the bar works well to deaden it. In a pinch apply slabs of modeling clay. Keep up the great content!
That's a really interesting idea. I'd never thought of doing that to deaden the bar. I'm going to look into that if we ever have to build another bar. Thanks for the kind words too. Appreciate it mate.
Interesting. Molten lead sounds like an idea we could look at. I'll see how it goes... but for future builds that's a possibility I might just pursue. How much lead did you put in (relative to the size of the bar?)
@@halfinchholes88 mercury years ago may be but work place health mob would have fits over that one bit dan ger res that stuff fill bar if hollow with i dought it would be with Lead if any thing Cheers
Cheers John. It just seemed like a good way to get it spot on. Using the chuck to bore out the tool. That way it’s 100% on point. Im sure there’s better ways to do it, but it seems to have worked out all right 👍
It’ll saves them bucketloads of time and money by drilling like this. 1/4 of the time and about 1/3 of the cost of traditional methods. So yeah… they’re keen 💯
tooling is starting to get real. Just curious if you possess a large horizontal borer in your shop - i cant help thinking that might not be a bad investment. (by large i mean proper large, not what most people think of) I used to work on a rather large Craven lathe that had a 12 foot faceplate and was 15 meters between centers - we used to turn rudder shafts and prop shafts for naval vessels - sometimes they were actually bent fomponents and we could have upwards of 8 tons as counterweights on the faceplate. those days of heavy machining seem to be a distant memory now. Aprentices seem to have a hard time understanding that we used to put on a 25mm depth of cut at a feedrate of 1.6mm/rev and could fill the hoppers in a few minutes.
Lucky man getting the big bar suck in a tight hole lol. Jokes aside you're boring bars look as big as my whole lathe, Wish i had the room for something real... All the same a little lathe is better than no lathe at all. Thanks for the videos.
Godzilla sure was a tragedy but it opened a much bigger door for the beast iam so excited to see it and taking a giant depth of cut at a insane stickout
It seems to me that an eccentric rotating cylinder to lock the bar in place in the tool holder base might be a good design to consider. This would be a 6” to 10” long captured rotating tube between two stationary base tubes. With a corresponding central eccentric outer diameter of 0.003” for the central tube ID to lock on to the tool. It will resemble a breach lock on a cannon. Just an idea I had.
Interesting idea. I'm hoping it all works the way we've set it up. Otherwise it'll be back to the drawing board... Thanks for sharing mate! Appreciate it.
What a shame it siezed in the hole. I have seen it with stainless to stainless. Once its starts its all over. We used to refurbish stainless pumpshafts where the gland packing wore the shaft by turning that area down and shrinking a stainless sleeve onto it and remachining back to size. If you didn't get everything correct the first time it was back to the lathe to machine it off and start all over again. I think the call it the school of hard knocks buts its still a bastard. Cheers Ian
I hear you 100% I’m really glad we saved the tool holder. A LOT of work went into that one. Godzilla getting destroyed turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The beast is probably twice as rigid and much, much better designed. Can’t wait to test it out this week
@@halheavyduty yes the swaff bins purity nice them ones and work well for you I be thinking would need be a tad bigger as some of those chunks of steel your machining are nothing short of huge Cheers
If i get the opportunity to start from scratch with a new shed setup (which might actually happen in the near future)... it's going to be so much fun to design. Swarf removal and part handling are top of the list. And having really good natural light. Wonder if there are any old airplane hangers in the area haha
@@halheavyduty won't be a darn big air plain hanger just to get the head for that massive drill bit in it Chips wouldn't it be so nice to have a conveyor belt driven thing a me jig straight into a dump bin now that would be the ultimate New shed mate i can't even fined the old one bigger is better ya drill be proves that but need the work to back it up for sure Cheers from up north
God I actually hope I done need a bigger bar any time soon. Unfortunately I just saw what’s in the pipeline… and I think I’m going to have to make one… It’s out of control round here with this crazy drill bit being built.
RMR rapid metal removal, had a very good boss , he said don't take it out on me , take it out on the job your machining so go up 15% more than the person who programmed it , yahoo, Matt keep on keeping on
I can’t wait to test it this week. It’s an absolute weapon. I have a strong suspicion that I’ll need to create a bigger one at some stage soon based on the drawings on my desk… But for now… the beast reigns supreme in the shop.
I actually hope we don't have to go any bigger (for a while!) However... I have a sneaky suspicion that there's a job lined up that might force us to build a bigger monster. It'll be the largest drill crossover sub we've ever built if it goes ahead...
I might have missed some one else say it but why not weld a KM80 to KM80 extension to the end of a bar, that way if you destroy a tool you've got one bolt to undo and you can also change to any other KM80 tools.
It’s a really good question. To be honest, it was just an issue of cost. I couldn’t justify laying out over a grand for the setup. We already had the head welded to our old “Godzilla” bar and a big bit of steel sitting in the yard I could build the beast from. I don’t really need to change the heads over, I just wanted to use the KM80 CNMG head after seeing how well the KM63 head works on our equally ghetto shop made bar “KONG” works. I don’t imagine we’ll have issues with the head itself, hence the decision to just weld it on.
@@halheavyduty eeeesh where I work bought a WFL mill turn with a KM80 spindle so I've ordered the necessary tooling for it, as they love to use a single supplier and they have a Kenna contract I've never looked at price just tried to box clever and keep holders to a minimum. Used alot of the CNMM 250924 inserts and I suppose even when they chip they still cut and the tool is fine. The Kenna rep did convince me to try a Fix8 tool and although it really chews metal out when the tip went it went and the tool very quickly weld to the OD of the part. Great channel by the way I love to see others who love the trade and your content and editing make it a pleasure to watch.
Yeah its amazing how robust those CNMG & CNMM inserts are hey. It's definitely my go to for heavy roughing. I was looking into the fix8 tools just last week. Do you recommend them, or do you have another preference?? Thanks for the channel feedback. It always means a lot when coming from other machinists with clear experience in the field. Appreciate it brother!
@@halheavyduty FIX8 is overly complicated with it silly clamping arm through the centre of the insert, locks you into Kenna tips and apart from more edges I see no benefit over the CNMG which gives you more process reliability. What really put me off was when the maintenance guy found a KENFIX (I think it was called) tool in a back room and gave it to me that was just a FIX8 they release decades ago that showed me it didn't catch on back then either.
Good to know. That’s kinda what I thought and have stuck with CNMG. I detest being stuck with non iso tooling. The inserts (in Australia) cost over $40 each for the fix 8 so I just couldn’t justify it. We can take 4mm cuts with an $8 WNMG or 6-8mm cuts with a CNMG all day long anyway. I like a lot of Kennametal tooling - especially the Udrills, but always look for ISO inserts where possible.
I also have a question about your cnc lathe with the Tailstock is it a Manuel tailstock with a Handwheel it it just fitted with a live center or is it also possible to use normal drills in there since you use only the quick change tool post to drill
Great question. It’s a manual tailstock. Has a geared 1-1 and 1-2 handwheel. Bloody heavy to move around. If we get a bigger lathe I’ll be getting a fully programmable one so we can do large center drilling.
@@halheavyduty that’s cool that lathes come with tailstocks that have 2 gearings probably for bigger drills so you need less force on the handwheel I would Imagen on our rougher lathe it’s a tum 35 famot come from Poland the tailstock is bloody big for the machine since we also cal the tailstock on that machine an anvil
My grandad used to wind in a 50mm HSS drill when making crossover subs. It took forever… but that was back before Udrills & carbide drills. I used to watch the swarf peel off as a little kid.
Not smartass at all. We chose to go parallel se we can adjust the length on the Kraken & Hydra. The Beast is built to be a standard 4D tool. I’ve found most of our bars perform well up to 4.5D so fingers crossed it’s as rigid as hell.
Seems like, Overall you would spend less time if you back off on the havvy cuts rather than spend so much time building and repairing the tooling. Thanks for the video!
Hahaha. If we didn’t do heavy cuts I’d never leave the shop. It wasn’t a heavy cut that killed Godzilla, it was actually trying to fit him in the new holder. Our apprentice got him stuck by accident. Easy mistake to make. We don’t take tools to the max. Usually 60-80% of manufacturer suggestions. Thanks for commenting brother 👊
If you go to the community section of the channel I put up a few photos. Short story - our apprentice test fitted it a little too early into the tool holder and it got stuck. Easy mistake, and not his fault…. It once it was in there… it wouldn’t budge. I’m glad it happened (now)… The Beast is a big upgrade on Godzilla. It’s a bloody weapon
@@halheavyduty , It just seems to me that some machinery had to be involved in getting it stuck. I can't see how that could have been done by hand! Just curious, not trying to make any drama.
I would have thought so too. Our apprentice was finishing honing / cleaning up the bore, and it was a very tight fit. We were aiming for a 0.02-0.04 clearance, but he test fitted it early. There may have been a little bit of material that wasn't properly cleaned off either the bore or the bar (I dont know for sure)... but it slid in (just) and then locked up. It does happen, and then the slightest friction heat at such close tolerances just led to it lockin in. And I mean LOCKED IN. I was genuinely surprised how tight it got stuck - considering the bloody thing went in by hand fairly nicely. Metals & expansion. Gotta love it. The odd bit of shit that likely got caught in there too (my guess) probably doesnt help. You live and learn... Twas definitley a week of character building and 'learning experiences'...
i do wounder if the damage would had been less of you had just gone straight to the hydrolic press. line it up the best you could and slowly push it out instead of trying all the otehr tricks first. did you also have a short shallow taper at the beginning ? we always have the first 15-20mm of ours have a 4-5 degree of taper do its more self goiding. plus we also let the bar spend the night in the refrigerator so its slight smaller when we put it in if its a super tight fit like that but cant heat up the other part its going into ( the freezer would run the risk of then bringing condensation which we try to avoid as much as we can if possible ) btw have you thought of any kind of internal/bild in dampening in the bar itself or are you just gonna relay on its own thickness and weight ?
Looking back, I should have just left it for a bit, and then heated the tool holder. It would probably have come right out. In a rush to get the job done… mistakes were made 🤣 Hindsight is always 20/20 The press would have destroyed it no matter what. I’m pretty certain of that. It’s just brutal.
@@halheavyduty im also pretty sure that the press would. i was just woundering if it would.t had been as much if it was straight to the press from the begining ( less that of miss aligning from heating and beating with a hammer you know ) btw are you gonna put the new bar in the refrigerator over night this time so its shrinks a little ( if its becuase you also want to be able to remove it lather though then you can have it send out to be coated in a low/slow thermal expanding coating ( that way the holder's bore will open up way faster then the tool will grow and make it easy to pull out by hand. though timing and heat resistent gloves will be needed ) if there is any kind of help/knolage/recomentation for things i can help you with let me know
This is true, but it worked. Around here we just have to make do with the tools we’ve got on hand (a lot of the time) We’re about to find out if it did the job well enough… so wish me luck brother.
@@adrianklaver113 Naw , lots of people mistakenly call it a "hone" but it is only a glaze breaker designed just to scuff up whatever surface is there. An out of round cylinder will stay out of round with that. Likewise a tapered cylinder will stay tapered. These spring loaded things as well as those "ball hone/flex hone" things ONLY make a surface on whatever they are in. Crooked or not. An actual hone will straighten out and round out cylinders as well as surface it while finishing it to a precise size. Look up Sunnen hone to see the differences.
Cheers mate. Fortunately it all worked out. The hole was round to begin with (it was bored out in the lathe with a fairly rigid setup). Appreciate the comment.
It’s definitely one way of doing it - but we wanted the holder to be universal for a bunch of tools that have variable lengths. Like the drill. Sometimes we drill at 250mm, and others at 450. Needs to be a straight shank for it to slide adjustable. I could have made it a bolted clamping system, but chose to give this a go first. Has worked pretty well so far. Fingers crossed nothing gets stuck in the future! 🤣
We’re about to find out if it’ll hold. Just ran it yesterday with the Hydra and it didn’t budge or vibrate. Fingers crossed for the BEAST trial this week.
This is so far from my home workshop experience that I cannot believe how big this tooling is. Just out of interest, why was nickel brazed onto the parts for a repair, over something like MIG? Thanks for the vid.
I'm quite surprised that you used heat on your boring bar. As a retired welder and machinist, I knew the minute I saw what you were trying to achieve that it was a waste of time. I will never understand why you didn't turn it down 10mm and use it on another job. All that heat dramatically change the internal structure of the steel. Now it's just a paperweight. Whatever strength the rod had is gone. Your biggest mistake is to make a boring bar from any round stock. The vibration and oscillation is unpredictable and uncontrollable. You should be using hex stock. Not only is it more rigid then round stock, it doesn't transfer vibration. You don't need to make a larger Godzilla. You just need to use a better configuration, HEX stock. You can use the same diameter and achieve better results because it will be stronger, which is what you are after. I'm 75. I started machining when I was 15. I have a little bit of experience.
That’s really good to know. Thanks mate. I appreciate the input. Old Godzilla is sitting in the junk steel bin now, and his replacement is probably the best tool we’ve made yet. I didn’t think to make him out of Hex though. The things you learn… Thanks again mate
*_Nickle coat? Better than bronze? I never heard of it but then again I don't do very much welding and oxy stuff. I have to say, you have a Hollywood movie going on in your shop. I'm just waiting for the stay puff marshmallow man from ghost busters...._* 🤣😆👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
🤣🤣🤣 It’s a wild show for sure some days. Thanks for tuning in mate. Yeah, the nickel cost is what we use to repair drill bits. Very durable and pretty easy to use. We use it instead of silver solder when it’s a reeeeally damaged bit.
Not the best way to hold it. A round in round will always spin on you. Flat or square held is best, it cant spin. If you're going with the round, the half round bolt down clamps with size for size bar and hole fit would work best.
You're correct. We wanted the toolholder to double as a holder for our drills, hence the decision to stick with round and just use locking grub screws on the side. Hasn't budged yet fortunately, and we've done some pretty heavy cuts with hard feed since setting it up. Thank God.
I'd make a split ∅ 4" cross slide holder and split sleeves to use it with smaller boring bars. It can hold a 4" boring bar which is probably as much as your machine can handle. We have several of these boring bars with a Capto C6 adapter at the end for quick tool changes. You can also easily extend the boring bar if needed. The one in the video below is a short version with a regular 2½" tool holder. ua-cam.com/video/l_n2nbEZn-4/v-deo.htmlsi=bE1Qig1QiZuZb17G
Yeah, not keen to go above 4”. To quote JAWS… I need a bigger boat 😜 Thanks for the tip. I’ll check that out. Sounds like you’re doing some great work yourself mate
That was what I wanted to call it. For sure. But everyone that popped over and saw it being built just kept making the same comment… “ Fark… that things a BEAST” And it stuck. RIP Godzilla Long live THE BEAST. About to run it now… Wish me luck brother
I’ve had a crap week too, two laptops died, my Transit van blocked its DPF and my Bridgeport Interact has an electrical problem. I’ll be glad to see the back of this week ! Great video, thanks, very interesting to someone like me who’s biggest jobs fit easily into my 2 metre lathe 😂
Haha. Glad I wasn’t the only one. Yep. Most of our jobs are short and FAT AF 🤣
Good to see we still have great engineering talent in this country. From an old engineer.
Some very bright minds with a LOT of practical experience working on that project.
I’m in awe of their ingenuity on a daily basis.
that coolant feed line on the big bar at the end is a great idea!
It actually came from the comments section in a previous video. So grateful for all you guys.
Aw, RIP Godzilla 😢
The long shot of the drill bit was jaw dropping, said before the rig that’s gonna run that must be huge !
Another great video, cheers 👏👏👏
Cheers Nick!
Yeah, every time I wander over to fab side of the yard I’m blown away by how bit the MOAB is getting.
I suspect we are going to need a 40 tonne crane to just move the bloody thing.
Wild.
i'm old enough to remember cliff hangars at the movies and in cartoons. a week isn't too long. that drill is going deep. damn.
Hahaha. All the TV shows used to live this little ginger hanging.
I know the feeling! Recently I had a part stick in a brand new fiberglass mold. I was able to save it, but it took hours trying to scrape away the epoxy that was stuck to the mold surface, without touching the mold surface. It was slightly better than starting over from scratch.
Some days you win…
Other days are “character building” as my mentor put it…
This week has been VERY character building 🤣
you need a name plate for the press: "The Specialist" or perhaps "El Especialista". 🤣
I think it's really cool how you name your machines and significant tools...
💯👊
A ground straight tool shank in a ground rigid holder will stick like that. Any tool taper less than 8 degrees will stick. To prevent welding, the shank angle should be more than 12 degrees. Think collet or cat taper.
Alternately, use a split clamp.
Yep. You’re right there. We’ve created some more clearance to see how it goes.
The Hydra is running right now - no issues yet thank God.
If we have any more problems in the future, it’ll be a split clamp setup for sure.
You could slit that holder down it's entire length and weld on some lugs for pinch bolts. I think this would reduce vibration and increase holding power significantly. You can slit your bushings also.
We did pretty well on all the tests, except the Kraken drill. It’s shop made so I’m getting a proper one.
Will see how it runs. Might end up doing your suggestion if it vibrates.
Thanks mate
Sorry things didn't quite so well for you this week. It happens.. I was working at a shop and early in the morning we had everything running. The guys were working listening to the tunes. So I was standing at the entrance with my coffee taking it all in. Then the owner came up behind me and asked what I was doing. I said look at that, everything is going well. Take a good look because it ain't gonna last... He busted up laughing and walked away. Machining and manufacturing is tough...some weeks are just better than others.... Keep rocking it!
So true 🤣🤣✌️
It’s the nature of the game. The thing I enjoy about machining the most, is the constant challenge to solve problems.
I absolutely love coming to work, and wake up (most days) excited to fire up the machines and start spitting chips.
There’s good days.
And not so good ones.
All in all, I wouldn’t swap careers with anyone right now. And I’m fortunate we’ve got a great team too. Makes all the difference working alongside men who want to work.
You are a miracle worker Matt, very much on par Montgomery Scott! Thank you sir.
Thanks for the kind words brother!
matt, lovely vid really interesting on the updates. one hint when rebuilding damaged surfaces always try keep the hardness's and machinabilty the same when rebuildinding. when you recut you get an even cut. this goes for whatever you using wood/plaster/weld/resin
Solid tip. Thanks Pete. Appreciate it - and I 100% agree with you.
What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger.
Interesting content as usual and really looking forward to what you're unveiling next week.
Thank you 🙏
Should be fun to trial out the beast. It’s a bloody sturdy looking bar. Just unwrapped it and it’s spot on.
The whole team worked on this one and did a bloody fantastic job
Thanks for that. For me those are the best bits. The unexpected!
Matt the state of your beard is an indicator as to the state of play.
Finally found a new barber! Great young lad who helped to tame the red bushranger somewhat.
Roll on next week 😀😀Looking forward to the beast unveiling.
Did a quick back of the envelope calculation: 3m drill going down 250m will remove about 5,000 tonnes of material! 😲😲
It’s wild hey.
The major advantage of drilling from surface down (as opposed to traditional raise boring) is that the material just comes to the top…
And doesn’t have to be carted from the bottom up. It’s why the whole mining industry is so behind the success of this project.
It’s a massive time and safety improvement on all levels.
Getting everything right the first time is for sissies. Battling your way into jobs, awakening monsters, and then battling those into submission is how the hard stuff usually gets done. It builds character and imparts a lot of knowledge.
if you got it right the first time you missed some detail😵💫😵🥴
Agreed. We have a 'willing to fail' attutide.
In our line of work you've gotta just get in and have a crack. Sometimes you win... sometimes you learn.
The job always gets done.
One way or another.
It always gets done
Here's some tips. Getting tools like this to slide in and out perfectly can be done but due to the weight etc. cocking and then getting stuck is a major issue. So, sticking to this design some kind of pilot would be needed as a guide (e.g. a smaller bar sliding into the bigger bar with a centering bushing on the end). Another solution I have seen used is a slit holder where the cap can be removed completely. This makes for an extremely stable clamping, the only thing is you need to index your insert to the machine CL. Just lift you boring bars in and out with no risk of cocking, ever.
Actually we have a custom made holder sitting in the shop (yes we cast our own castings) which was done this way and it holds a mega Sandvik bar (probably a silent bar) of which I am afraid to ask the price, LOL. It was used on one job and now it is collecting dus. in fact the whole thing bolts directly to the cross slide so it could not be more sturdy than this. I forgot to measure the bar dimensions, will let you know.
Awesome. Thanks man. Yeah if you find the bar dimensions (or any info about it let me know)
Super curious.
@@halheavyduty I will send some pictures by email.
thank you so much Matt.....best wishes, Paulie in Florida
Cheers Paulie!
Great video 😊
Cheers mate! 👍
HI, FYI a good mate of mine who passed away used to work in the mines as driller on air shafts, elevators or any other use's that the mine's needed. Most of his work was around 3 M & on some jobs they would drill down 250 to 300 M & then drill back up at 6 M. I'm pretty sure he said 6 M, as too open up a huge cut for machinery to go down on a gold mine, all in Australia. Pretty Cool with what you can run with these Hyd powered drilling rigs.
Yep. They dig some bloody big holes for the mine shafts.
The real difference with the big rig we are developing is that it drills top down using air (as compared to mud)
It’s a bit safety improvement as you don’t have 5000 odd tonnes of mud sitting above an underground mine.
It’s a lot faster than the big raise bore methods too.
Those big rigs that do raise bores are insane. The bits are enormous!
That tool holder, you could've made it so it has a bolt down cap, use 10 9/16" ARP main studs from a engine, it should have like 100t of clamping force.
Just make spacer blocks to hone it then take the blocks out to clamp it, but the cap would need to basically be a block of steel machined to fit the tool holder.
You could also use nut serts on the base so you spread the load into the base better. Drill down like 100mm from the cylinder so the pressure doesn't distort it.
If I make another one, it’ll be the bolt down two part style. I’m hoping this will work just fine.
Hoping….
We’ll find out next week for sure 👍
Now i see where curtis gets his " ideas " from ...good goin mate..
Cheers mate. I love CEE videos. Still got swarf bin envy 🤣🤣🤣
Getting stuff stuck only ever happens on a Friday or at 5pm. I feel for you. To coin a uk term,…. Mingin’
We’ve got plenty of tools with lots of “character” 😂
🤣🤣🤣
It was literally 3pm on Friday. Hence the emergency rush to get it unstuck
Which ended up in disaster 🤣
Mingin 💯🤣
Hi Matt, as the saying goes shit happens😳, good to see that you could save the tool holder and look on the bright side you needed a bigger bar anyway😁. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Gary. It all worked out way better than expected anyway.
Godzilla getting stuck in the tool holder actually let us start from scratch and create a tool that is far, far more useful.
And my tool holder looks like a Japanese teacup with some character too 🤣
That 3-meter drill would be delightful for targeting ore bodies for extraction but it would be game-changing for geothermal energy development. Quite the size for a boiler😮
Again, please keep managing to find time to produce these videos because vids like these show what trades do and it surely isn't being a robot's stand-in.
With my papers, the last job I was offered would have started at $100.00/hr and 2 months paid vacation.
Trades are in demand everywhere 😃👍🍻
Hey mate, yeah I think as the tech gets proven and gets more exposure… there will be a lot of possibilities for a rig that can do these type of holes.
Especially when it’s drilled on air, and from the surface (as compared to mud drilling & the raise bore option)
New video lands this Friday. It’s been a wild week in the shop 🤣
Can't wait to see the "BEAST"unleashed grrr , lol .
Makes two of us brother 💯✌️
I hate surprises, I have to wait for a week now.😃. Great job. Have you tried with thick wall mechanical tubing for boring bar
Me too! Haha. The trial run begins today... Haven't tried thick wall mech tubing. We've mostly just used solid 4140 bar and drilled it out / plumbed it in.
What my last boss before I retired hated to hear was "oops, Bugger"
Ahhh the dreaded words…
same thing happened to John Holmes when he became dependent on Peruvian Marching Dust.......sad to see Godzilla under the weather......but you will adapt and over come.......cheers from the Other Sunshine State, Florida, Paul
Cheers Paulie! Yep... I was rather fond of old Godzilla... but man - the BEAST is on another level. I woke up today excited to get in the shop and test it out.
Any 'Deadening in the bar?' We would drill out the bar and fill it with mercury. I've heard pouring molten sodium into the bar works well to deaden it. In a pinch apply slabs of modeling clay. Keep up the great content!
we did similar with molten lead in a bar - made a hell of a difference in "singing"
That's a really interesting idea. I'd never thought of doing that to deaden the bar. I'm going to look into that if we ever have to build another bar. Thanks for the kind words too. Appreciate it mate.
Interesting. Molten lead sounds like an idea we could look at. I'll see how it goes... but for future builds that's a possibility I might just pursue. How much lead did you put in (relative to the size of the bar?)
@@halfinchholes88 mercury years ago may be but work place health mob would have fits over that one bit dan ger res that stuff fill bar if hollow with i dought it would be with Lead if any thing
Cheers
@@halheavyduty just fill it up mate more the better
Wow! I'm impressed. Just wondering why you didn't try line boring the tool mount. Not back seat driving, just curious... Keep up the good work! John
Cheers John. It just seemed like a good way to get it spot on.
Using the chuck to bore out the tool. That way it’s 100% on point.
Im sure there’s better ways to do it, but it seems to have worked out all right 👍
Holey smoke do you have to load that bar with a fork lift ?? cannot wait to see it eat !!!
Definitely need an overhead crane. It weighs over 100lbs (about 55kg I think)
Wild bit of gear 💯✌️
Great stuff just remember mining companies have got money to throw at you, anything to keep it coming cheers.
It’ll saves them bucketloads of time and money by drilling like this.
1/4 of the time and about 1/3 of the cost of traditional methods.
So yeah… they’re keen 💯
That new bar is big enough to have not only coolant through but a Starbucks too 😅
💯🤣
tooling is starting to get real.
Just curious if you possess a large horizontal borer in your shop - i cant help thinking that might not be a bad investment. (by large i mean proper large, not what most people think of)
I used to work on a rather large Craven lathe that had a 12 foot faceplate and was 15 meters between centers - we used to turn rudder shafts and prop shafts for naval vessels - sometimes they were actually bent fomponents and we could have upwards of 8 tons as counterweights on the faceplate. those days of heavy machining seem to be a distant memory now.
Aprentices seem to have a hard time understanding that we used to put on a 25mm depth of cut at a feedrate of 1.6mm/rev and could fill the hoppers in a few minutes.
We don't have one yet, but I tend to agree with you. We might just be looking at a proper sized one in the near future.
Lucky man getting the big bar suck in a tight hole lol. Jokes aside you're boring bars look as big as my whole lathe, Wish i had the room for something real... All the same a little lathe is better than no lathe at all. Thanks for the videos.
Hahaha. Should have used a little lube on the test run.
Welcome bro!
Godzilla sure was a tragedy but it opened a much bigger door for the beast iam so excited to see it and taking a giant depth of cut at a insane stickout
We just unwrapped him and it’s a metal MISSILE. An absolute weapon. Can’t wait to give the big boy a trial run 👊
@@halheavyduty trying out a new tool is always so much fun and it’s even more fun when the tool is build by yourself
100%
It seems to me that an eccentric rotating cylinder to lock the bar in place in the tool holder base might be a good design to consider. This would be a 6” to 10” long captured rotating tube between two stationary base tubes. With a corresponding central eccentric outer diameter of 0.003” for the central tube ID to lock on to the tool. It will resemble a breach lock on a cannon. Just an idea I had.
Interesting idea. I'm hoping it all works the way we've set it up. Otherwise it'll be back to the drawing board... Thanks for sharing mate! Appreciate it.
If you get to make another boring bar of massive proportions, nickname it Cyclops!
I like it
New bar out of the ashes of the previous beast
Bigger.
Badder.
The BEAST.
RIP Godzilla. You will be missed old buddy
What a shame it siezed in the hole. I have seen it with stainless to stainless. Once its starts its all over. We used to refurbish stainless pumpshafts where the gland packing wore the shaft by turning that area down and shrinking a stainless sleeve onto it and remachining back to size. If you didn't get everything correct the first time it was back to the lathe to machine it off and start all over again. I think the call it the school of hard knocks buts its still a bastard. Cheers Ian
I hear you 100%
I’m really glad we saved the tool holder. A LOT of work went into that one.
Godzilla getting destroyed turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The beast is probably twice as rigid and much, much better designed.
Can’t wait to test it out this week
Ah yes, the Japanese tea cup 😂 it's called Kintsugi and it's a great reference for this
That’s the one! Kintsugi 💯
I’m going to name the holder Kintsugi 🤣 that’s perfect ✌️
Thank you
Since when do they drill elevator shafts .
Hahaha
Underground mines love them apparently. Pre drilling the old safety escape hatches 😜
Cant wait to see The Beast in action !! :D
Me too my friend!
At least nobody said “oops.” See, “oops” is a _reflex_ and if someone has a reaction like that then something is really broken.
I’ll remember that… next time I hear oops 🤣
hay mate just admit you had to go one up on Kurtis ..... unveil will be great to see like the coolant pipe Cheers
Hahaha.
He’s still got me beat with that big bar.
And his bloody fancy swarf bins 🤣
@@halheavyduty yes the swaff bins purity nice them ones and work well for you I be thinking would need be a tad bigger as some of those chunks of steel your machining are nothing short of huge
Cheers
If i get the opportunity to start from scratch with a new shed setup (which might actually happen in the near future)... it's going to be so much fun to design.
Swarf removal and part handling are top of the list. And having really good natural light. Wonder if there are any old airplane hangers in the area haha
@@halheavyduty won't be a darn big air plain hanger just to get the head for that massive drill bit in it
Chips wouldn't it be so nice to have a conveyor belt driven thing a me jig straight into a dump bin now that would be the ultimate
New shed mate i can't even fined the old one bigger is better ya drill be proves that but need the work to back it up for sure
Cheers from up north
Cheers brother! Yeah. Imagine the swarf automatically leaving the building. Goals 🤣
Nice
👊🙏
The Beast? I'll be interested when you make Large Marge.
God I actually hope I done need a bigger bar any time soon.
Unfortunately I just saw what’s in the pipeline… and I think I’m going to have to make one…
It’s out of control round here with this crazy drill bit being built.
The next one has to be called "The Behemoth"
A fitting name!
I think we’re gonna have to build it too based on the drawings on my desk.
Fark
@@halheavyduty what are these drawings you speak of?
A 1.2m 1 ton drive sub.
It’s going to absolutely max out the lathe. And I mean MAX.
I need a bigger boat 🦈
RMR rapid metal removal, had a very good boss , he said don't take it out on me , take it out on the job your machining so go up 15% more than the person who programmed it , yahoo, Matt keep on keeping on
💯👊🤣
I'm guessing this drill is for opal mining?
Large ventilation shafts for underground coal mines I believe
Can the nickel rod be used to repair cast iron drill tables?
I imagine so. I’ve never done it, it it’s amazing what you can fix with silver solder or nickel coat.
It’s never perfect, but beats the scrap heap.
From Godzilla to Beast. I wonder what the next step will be :)
I can’t wait to test it this week. It’s an absolute weapon.
I have a strong suspicion that I’ll need to create a bigger one at some stage soon based on the drawings on my desk…
But for now… the beast reigns supreme in the shop.
next you need to build the "Monster" ;)
I actually hope we don't have to go any bigger (for a while!)
However... I have a sneaky suspicion that there's a job lined up that might force us to build a bigger monster. It'll be the largest drill crossover sub we've ever built if it goes ahead...
@@halheavyduty as
Tim allen says " R-R-R-R!" haha
🤣🤣
I might have missed some one else say it but why not weld a KM80 to KM80 extension to the end of a bar, that way if you destroy a tool you've got one bolt to undo and you can also change to any other KM80 tools.
It’s a really good question.
To be honest, it was just an issue of cost. I couldn’t justify laying out over a grand for the setup.
We already had the head welded to our old “Godzilla” bar and a big bit of steel sitting in the yard I could build the beast from.
I don’t really need to change the heads over, I just wanted to use the KM80 CNMG head after seeing how well the KM63 head works on our equally ghetto shop made bar “KONG” works.
I don’t imagine we’ll have issues with the head itself, hence the decision to just weld it on.
@@halheavyduty eeeesh where I work bought a WFL mill turn with a KM80 spindle so I've ordered the necessary tooling for it, as they love to use a single supplier and they have a Kenna contract I've never looked at price just tried to box clever and keep holders to a minimum. Used alot of the CNMM 250924 inserts and I suppose even when they chip they still cut and the tool is fine. The Kenna rep did convince me to try a Fix8 tool and although it really chews metal out when the tip went it went and the tool very quickly weld to the OD of the part.
Great channel by the way I love to see others who love the trade and your content and editing make it a pleasure to watch.
Yeah its amazing how robust those CNMG & CNMM inserts are hey. It's definitely my go to for heavy roughing.
I was looking into the fix8 tools just last week. Do you recommend them, or do you have another preference??
Thanks for the channel feedback. It always means a lot when coming from other machinists with clear experience in the field. Appreciate it brother!
@@halheavyduty FIX8 is overly complicated with it silly clamping arm through the centre of the insert, locks you into Kenna tips and apart from more edges I see no benefit over the CNMG which gives you more process reliability. What really put me off was when the maintenance guy found a KENFIX (I think it was called) tool in a back room and gave it to me that was just a FIX8 they release decades ago that showed me it didn't catch on back then either.
Good to know. That’s kinda what I thought and have stuck with CNMG. I detest being stuck with non iso tooling.
The inserts (in Australia) cost over $40 each for the fix 8 so I just couldn’t justify it.
We can take 4mm cuts with an $8 WNMG or 6-8mm cuts with a CNMG all day long anyway.
I like a lot of Kennametal tooling - especially the Udrills, but always look for ISO inserts where possible.
I also have a question about your cnc lathe with the Tailstock is it a Manuel tailstock with a Handwheel it it just fitted with a live center or is it also possible to use normal drills in there since you use only the quick change tool post to drill
Great question.
It’s a manual tailstock. Has a geared 1-1 and 1-2 handwheel. Bloody heavy to move around.
If we get a bigger lathe I’ll be getting a fully programmable one so we can do large center drilling.
@@halheavyduty that’s cool that lathes come with tailstocks that have 2 gearings probably for bigger drills so you need less force on the handwheel I would Imagen on our rougher lathe it’s a tum 35 famot come from Poland the tailstock is bloody big for the machine since we also cal the tailstock on that machine an anvil
Hahah. Anvil sounds about right. Yeah, the 2 speed gearing is excellent. Makes a big difference.
@@halheavydutyyea using a 29mm has drill even pre drilling it takes so much force
My grandad used to wind in a 50mm HSS drill when making crossover subs. It took forever… but that was back before Udrills & carbide drills.
I used to watch the swarf peel off as a little kid.
Do you have a link or specs on that nickel rod?
For sure mate.
BOC Smootharc Gas Welding Rods
NICKELCOAT
PART NO GRNC3225
Just a tube smatarse😊 but maybe a taper Morse or jit ??. instead of parallel.😊😊😊
Not smartass at all. We chose to go parallel se we can adjust the length on the Kraken & Hydra.
The Beast is built to be a standard 4D tool. I’ve found most of our bars perform well up to 4.5D so fingers crossed it’s as rigid as hell.
Seems like, Overall you would spend less time if you back off on the havvy cuts rather than spend so much time building and repairing the tooling. Thanks for the video!
Hahaha. If we didn’t do heavy cuts I’d never leave the shop.
It wasn’t a heavy cut that killed Godzilla, it was actually trying to fit him in the new holder.
Our apprentice got him stuck by accident. Easy mistake to make.
We don’t take tools to the max. Usually 60-80% of manufacturer suggestions.
Thanks for commenting brother 👊
RIP Godzilla 🫡
I’m gonna miss that one…
But he’s reborn. And he’s a BEAST 💯
I would like to know how Godzilla got stuck in the tool holder.
If you go to the community section of the channel I put up a few photos.
Short story - our apprentice test fitted it a little too early into the tool holder and it got stuck.
Easy mistake, and not his fault…. It once it was in there… it wouldn’t budge.
I’m glad it happened (now)…
The Beast is a big upgrade on Godzilla. It’s a bloody weapon
@@halheavyduty , It just seems to me that some machinery had to be involved in getting it stuck. I can't see how that could have been done by hand! Just curious, not trying to make any drama.
@@steve_weinrich my guess is the holder was hot and it heat shrunk around the boring bar
I would have thought so too.
Our apprentice was finishing honing / cleaning up the bore, and it was a very tight fit. We were aiming for a 0.02-0.04 clearance, but he test fitted it early.
There may have been a little bit of material that wasn't properly cleaned off either the bore or the bar (I dont know for sure)... but it slid in (just) and then locked up.
It does happen, and then the slightest friction heat at such close tolerances just led to it lockin in. And I mean LOCKED IN. I was genuinely surprised how tight it got stuck - considering the bloody thing went in by hand fairly nicely.
Metals & expansion.
Gotta love it.
The odd bit of shit that likely got caught in there too (my guess) probably doesnt help.
You live and learn...
Twas definitley a week of character building and 'learning experiences'...
@@halheavyduty , Thanks!
RIP Godzilla. What the hell are we gonna name its replacement? You’re running out of badass names?!
The Beast…
The most common phrase from everyone watching it being built was
“F”&@ … that thing is a BEAST”
And it just stuck
i do wounder if the damage would had been less of you had just gone straight to the hydrolic press. line it up the best you could and slowly push it out instead of trying all the otehr tricks first. did you also have a short shallow taper at the beginning ? we always have the first 15-20mm of ours have a 4-5 degree of taper do its more self goiding. plus we also let the bar spend the night in the refrigerator so its slight smaller when we put it in if its a super tight fit like that but cant heat up the other part its going into ( the freezer would run the risk of then bringing condensation which we try to avoid as much as we can if possible )
btw have you thought of any kind of internal/bild in dampening in the bar itself or are you just gonna relay on its own thickness and weight ?
Looking back, I should have just left it for a bit, and then heated the tool holder. It would probably have come right out.
In a rush to get the job done… mistakes were made 🤣
Hindsight is always 20/20
The press would have destroyed it no matter what. I’m pretty certain of that. It’s just brutal.
@@halheavyduty im also pretty sure that the press would. i was just woundering if it would.t had been as much if it was straight to the press from the begining ( less that of miss aligning from heating and beating with a hammer you know )
btw are you gonna put the new bar in the refrigerator over night this time so its shrinks a little ( if its becuase you also want to be able to remove it lather though then you can have it send out to be coated in a low/slow thermal expanding coating ( that way the holder's bore will open up way faster then the tool will grow and make it easy to pull out by hand. though timing and heat resistent gloves will be needed )
if there is any kind of help/knolage/recomentation for things i can help you with let me know
Thanks mate! Appreciate it. We’ve made the fit a little less snug, so hopefully we don’t have a repeat of the Godzilla fiasco
@@halheavyduty hopefully not
All passed with flying colours.
Happy days
Sign saying hot. You know its like saying wet paint. Some ...... will want to test it!
I know right 🤣
It's the spit test at that point, much safer
💯
5:32 Guys, that thing is NOT a hone. It's a glaze breaker. You can't expect a round hole with that.
This is true, but it worked. Around here we just have to make do with the tools we’ve got on hand (a lot of the time)
We’re about to find out if it did the job well enough… so wish me luck brother.
Looks like a cylinder hone to me.
@@adrianklaver113 Naw , lots of people mistakenly call it a "hone" but it is only a glaze breaker designed just to scuff up whatever surface is there. An out of round cylinder will stay out of round with that. Likewise a tapered cylinder will stay tapered. These spring loaded things as well as those "ball hone/flex hone" things ONLY make a surface on whatever they are in. Crooked or not.
An actual hone will straighten out and round out cylinders as well as surface it while finishing it to a precise size. Look up Sunnen hone to see the differences.
@@halheavyduty Well good luck to you brother.
Cheers mate. Fortunately it all worked out. The hole was round to begin with (it was bored out in the lathe with a fairly rigid setup).
Appreciate the comment.
Could have been worse, Mothra could have paid a visit and wrecked the workshop too
🤣🤣🤣
Maybe bore the toolholder as a taper, and then put a taper on the bar...
It’s definitely one way of doing it - but we wanted the holder to be universal for a bunch of tools that have variable lengths.
Like the drill. Sometimes we drill at 250mm, and others at 450. Needs to be a straight shank for it to slide adjustable.
I could have made it a bolted clamping system, but chose to give this a go first.
Has worked pretty well so far.
Fingers crossed nothing gets stuck in the future! 🤣
I think you need new holder too. These one looks too feeble. And I dont like screws it has.
We’re about to find out if it’ll hold. Just ran it yesterday with the Hydra and it didn’t budge or vibrate.
Fingers crossed for the BEAST trial this week.
Could've sent it to Kurtis for lineboring
Haha. He’s flat out like a lizard drinking. Man is run off his feet
This is so far from my home workshop experience that I cannot believe how big this tooling is. Just out of interest, why was nickel brazed onto the parts for a repair, over something like MIG?
Thanks for the vid.
It’s easy to machine, very durable and doesn’t distort like weld.
Excellent question.
@@halheavyduty Ah right, makes sense. Thanks so much for a reply, I've subbed!
Most welcome my friend. Thanks for tuning in and jumping on board.
You could call the new bar Pazilla, Godzillas dad..
That’s gold 🤣🤣
Love it.
why did you not use weld on the bar instead of the nickel rod
They were all tied up building the MEGADRILL. I also wanted to avoid any distortion that gets caused by welding.
Man, is there of video of how it got stuck,
I unfortunately didn’t catch it on film. We were too rushed trying to get it unstuck!
KM tooling sold heaps of
We probably bought Godzillas head off you guys 🤣
Well that was unfortunate
A character building week for sure 🤣
I'm quite surprised that you used heat on your boring bar. As a retired welder and machinist, I knew the minute I saw what you were trying to achieve that it was a waste of time. I will never understand why you didn't turn it down 10mm and use it on another job. All that heat dramatically change the internal structure of the steel.
Now it's just a paperweight. Whatever strength the rod had is gone.
Your biggest mistake is to make a boring bar from any round stock. The vibration and oscillation is unpredictable and uncontrollable. You should be using hex stock. Not only is it more rigid then round stock, it doesn't transfer vibration. You don't need to make a larger Godzilla. You just need to use a better configuration, HEX stock. You can use the same diameter and achieve better results because it will be stronger, which is what you are after. I'm 75.
I started machining when I was 15. I have a little bit of experience.
That’s really good to know. Thanks mate. I appreciate the input.
Old Godzilla is sitting in the junk steel bin now, and his replacement is probably the best tool we’ve made yet.
I didn’t think to make him out of Hex though. The things you learn…
Thanks again mate
i think you should name the new boring bar HERCULES or THOR
Both excellent names.
I wish you had some actual BIG machines and tooling.
Me too bro 🤣🤣🤣
The "Hydra" should be called Medusa because of all the heads* it takes.
Medusa is a bloody good name for that one! If I get a larger drill (to suit a bigger bar we might have to build)
I’m totally naming it Medusa.
Legend
*_Nickle coat? Better than bronze? I never heard of it but then again I don't do very much welding and oxy stuff. I have to say, you have a Hollywood movie going on in your shop. I'm just waiting for the stay puff marshmallow man from ghost busters...._* 🤣😆👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
🤣🤣🤣
It’s a wild show for sure some days. Thanks for tuning in mate.
Yeah, the nickel cost is what we use to repair drill bits. Very durable and pretty easy to use. We use it instead of silver solder when it’s a reeeeally damaged bit.
Not the best way to hold it. A round in round will always spin on you. Flat or square held is best, it cant spin. If you're going with the round, the half round bolt down clamps with size for size bar and hole fit would work best.
You're correct. We wanted the toolholder to double as a holder for our drills, hence the decision to stick with round and just use locking grub screws on the side.
Hasn't budged yet fortunately, and we've done some pretty heavy cuts with hard feed since setting it up. Thank God.
I'd make a split ∅ 4" cross slide holder and split sleeves to use it with smaller boring bars. It can hold a 4" boring bar which is probably as much as your machine can handle. We have several of these boring bars with a Capto C6 adapter at the end for quick tool changes. You can also easily extend the boring bar if needed.
The one in the video below is a short version with a regular 2½" tool holder.
ua-cam.com/video/l_n2nbEZn-4/v-deo.htmlsi=bE1Qig1QiZuZb17G
Yeah, not keen to go above 4”.
To quote JAWS… I need a bigger boat 😜
Thanks for the tip. I’ll check that out. Sounds like you’re doing some great work yourself mate
This is why we can't have nice things...
I know right... fark
So mechagodzilla?
That was what I wanted to call it. For sure. But everyone that popped over and saw it being built just kept making the same comment…
“ Fark… that things a BEAST”
And it stuck.
RIP Godzilla
Long live THE BEAST.
About to run it now…
Wish me luck brother
👋🧉⚽🇦🇷🇦🇺
👊✌️🧉