Hardwood Cutting Propagation | Winter Plant Propagation
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Today I’m going to talk about Hardwood Cutting Propagation or Winter Plant Propagation. This is basically a ‘how to’ of rooting cuttings in the winter time with very little effort.
More videos of our unique edible plants can be found here: odysee.com/@Gr...
But first, let’s talk a little terminology.
Here’s the terminology You’ll Need to Know.
Softwood Cutting
Let’s start with softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are cuttings off of this year’s growth on a plant that is only a month or two old. It grew this year, usually starting in the spring and is sometimes still a little green. When you bend the two ends of this stick it will snap, but doesn’t look very woody. If it just bruises and bends, it is too soon to use and it needs to sit longer.
Semi-Softwood Cutting
The next wood type is semi-softwood and it is a cutting that was taken from this year’s growth on a plant that is three months old or older, but before the leaves fall off. It grew this year, usually starting in the spring and the wood is usually changing to the color of the other branches on the bush. When you bend the two ends of this stick it will snap and usually looks quite woody.
Hardwood Cutting
Last, we have hardwood cuttings. These are taken from the previous springs new growth, but growth that is less than one year old. It is taken when the plant is dormant, which is when the leaves have fallen in the winter.
Internode
An internode is a point on a plant that has leaves, branches, buds, or tendrils coming out.
Before you Begin
Make sure you are working with clean equipment. Clean your clippers, shears, or whatever you are using to cut the wood with. I use hand sanitizer or rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to wipe down the cutting edges. Doing this will make sure you do not spread disease or pathogens between plants.
Now Make the Cut
On the hardwood cutting, near the bottom of the wood that you are dealing with, make a clean cut about 1/8” below the bottom internode. Then come up at least 3 internodes and make cut about 1” above that internode. The number of internodes will vary by plant type. The first plant I did was muscadine grapes and I did three internodes and the cuttings were about four inches. I pushed them 1 inch into the ground leaving 3 inches out.
Next up was elderberry. Three internodes on an elderberry was about 18” long. This plant was pushed into the ground about two and a half to three inches.
The last plant in this exercise was blueberry. In order to get a four-inch cutting, I had to leave 9 internodes. Rooting hormone was applied and it was pushed one inch into the ground.
Do you really need Rooting Hormone?
Questions about rooting hormone are common. Most cuttings will do just fine without rooting hormone. Other plants do much better with it. In my experience, elderberries do not need rooting hormones. They root very easily. I have had a tough time with blueberry cuttings though. So, I do use rooting hormone on blueberries with hardwood cuttings and have had pretty good luck.
There are Different Types of Rooting Hormone
There are two main types of rooting hormone. They are liquid and powdered. The liquid hormone is mixed with water and allows you to adjust concentration based on how much water you add. The powdered hormone has to be bought in the concentration you want.
With the liquid hormone, I follow the directions on the bottle. You usually use a less concentrated amount on softwood and a more concentrated amount on hardwood cuttings. I’ll include a link below to the type of liquid rooting hormone I buy online.
With the powdered hormone, I buy whatever Home Depot or Lowes has and just dip the cuttings in it.
Here is Where to Plant Them
Plant the cuttings where you want them to grow and don’t let them dry completely out. You can put them in pots if you like, but pots can dry out pretty quick in the summer, so keep a close eye on the water in the heat of the summer.
There You Have It!
Well, there you have it! A way to propagate your own plants cheaply at home. This method has saved me thousands of dollars and will make me (hopefully) thousands of dollars as I sell these plants at greatescapefar...
Please help support our efforts by shopping through our Amazon link amzn.to/29XrTEL It won’t cost you any additional money and it will help a small business out. - Наука та технологія
please note that the bud point is the node, not the internode, which is the stem portion between nodes, hence the name inter!
Thanks
THANK YOU for having a transcript AND CC that is actually what you are saying! I appreciate that so much! I'm hard of hearing and having that resource means that I can be sure what I hear is what you said, and I can quickly scroll through the transcript if I need to go over a section again, without watching the whole video!
You are welcome! I'm glad you like it.
Thanks for the video, I just found it by accident.
You are most welcome.
Rather than pushing the cutting into the soil after using a rooting hormone, first use a different stick which is slightly larger in diameter than the cutting to "pre-drill" the hole. Then you can insert the cutting with rooting hormone on it into the pre-drilled hole without loosing any of the expensive rooting hormone. Then just pinch the top of the hole around the cutting to secure it in place. If you're kind of a handyman you can also make a jig to punch in, or pre-drill, numerous holes into the soil which will be consistent in spacing and depth with just a single plunge. Great video!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video, very interesting. I live in the UK and you've inspired me to get outside and try this with a few of my plants!
Hey I'm also In the UK have you had any success?
I am also from the UK and I want to try this too.
Wow, I feel worldly now :) I wish you all the best of luck!
Many thanks! I have only tried softwood blueberry cuttings and got only 2 out of maybe 15-20 to survive, which is not too bad i guess for them. I look forward to better success with hardwood cuttings.
Good Luck!
Thanks for the info. Gonna give it a go.
You're welcome and good luck!
Lot of questions about fruit trees,I tried a couple years doing peach and apple and plum..Did not do to good..But then I started using larger cutting about finger or thumb thickness and I started getting some success..IF YOU DO NOT LIKE the tree you can always use it as a root stock and try your hand at grafting some other thing to it..
Grafting is on my to do list.
Oh yes I do have questions about nut trees i.e. hazelnut, walnut, chestnut and fruit trees i.e. old hardy gone wild now pear, apple, plum. I'm in zone 7 Niagara Region Canada. We also have here Paw-Paw ( due to that old Carolinian Forest ) and how do you propagate that tree. Thank you for your time and an effort to provide lots of information in Your video ( I did subscribed ). Will wait for your info back. Margaret
Hi Margaret - sorry for the late reply. Most of your trees - both nut and fruit (including paw paw) - have long tap roots and the best way to propagate them is with seeds. If you want a specific variety, seeds are usually not true to the parents and will be a little (or a lot) different. In that case, you would plant the seedling to get the tap root and then once it has grown out for a while, graft the plant of interest on to the seedling.
IMHO: I'd stick the ends into the soil to about 4"-6", in case a bird, or rodent comes along and attempts to climb on it. You might try cutting a bundle of springtime willow twigs, and soak them in the "rooting bucket, so that the natural rooting hormones will transfer from the willow twigs, into the water, then to your cuttings!.... it's cheap, and supposedly helps!
Thanks for the input.
nodes -- the internodes are the spaces between the nodes ;) just an FYI correction for ya
Well thank you!
Thanks, was about to comment on that too.
Have you tried this with raspberry cuttings and how well did it work? Any specifics? Also how timing is important and what is to look for (as to last frost, ground just starting to thaw, etc)? We have some everbearing (primocane) raspberry varieties we would like to propagate in quantities much larger than we can by digging out suckers in the spring. Also they all need to be cut to the grown anyways to allow early harvest on new canes - we could make gazillion of cuttings from them. thank you
I have not tried this with raspberries. I get enough from suckers.
Can u use honey for hardwood blueberry?also what should you do if you live somewhere where it snows for a month or two?plant in movable pots or mini greenhouse shelter something something?thanks.
I've never tried honey, so I can't speak to that. I get snow here for several months and just put them out in the weather and they do fine.
I'm trying to work with Japanese Fuyu Persimmon, Have (4) 2 in the ground and 2 in pots
(5 gal.) and I would like to have more. It's 12/23/17 now can you make suggest any thing I might do?
If you live in USDA zone 7 or lower (6,5,4,3...) then you may need to either bury your pots or put some heavy mulch around them so the roots don't get too cold. This year is supposed to be a colder year, so even if they have survived winters in the past, they may not survive this winter if it really is as cold as what they are calling for.
If you want to purchase more, I'd check with ediblelandscaping.com, raintreenursery.com or burntridgenprsery.com. These are my goto nurseries for plants that I do not sell.
Good luck!
Can you please make video about fruit trees from cutting.
I will try this next summer. The majority of named varieties of fruit trees are grafted on to seedling trees, so you don't really see many good varieties of fruit coming from cuttings. I did do a video on propagating mulberry trees and have had pretty good success with that. That video is posted up on our UA-cam channel.
Does this work for fruit trees (apple, peach and pear)? Or just a particular class (berries) of fruits? I know planting seeds of fruit trees are 1 in 100 of a chance for fruit, but did not know if hard wood cutting on fruit bearing trees worked just as well or in place of grafting.
Hi Tom - the answer to your question is yes and no. You can root cuttings from fruit trees, however, they are usually grafted for a reason. First, you really want the tap root that you get from a seed and you will not get a good tap root from a cutting. More important is the other qualities that you get from the root stock on a grafted variety. That may be cold hard, disease resistance, dwarf vs. full size etc. You can certainly try it, but I'd recommend going to a place like raintreenursery.com and buying root stock. Get it started for a year and then graft on to it. There are loads of videos out there on how to graft and I'll be doing some grafting videos in the future as well. Good luck.
Forgive the potentially stupid question, but does the soil for the hardwood cuttings have to be moist when you stick them in? And how often should I water them?
It needs to be pretty moist but not soaking wet. If the soil stays together when you squeeze it into a ball, yet falls apart easily when you crumble it, then it is perfect for propagation. Keep the soil like this for a while of you want good rooting to occur. I recommend this for container propagation as well as in-ground.
Thanks for the reply and for posting the video in the first place. UA-cam has become my go to whenever I need to learn something new, and I have posters like you to thank for it :)
In my region in the mid-Atlantic of the US I never water hardwood cuttings until the heat of the summer. I just stick them in the ground and let them go. We get plenty of rain and snow here. Also, with our freezing winters, I don't want hoses out in the winter.
thank you for info.i supose you do your hard wood cutting propagation late in the winter when the snow melts when the temperature gets above freezing?
I do them whenever the ground is workable. Before or after the snow and hard freezing ground.
when do you pot the individual cuttings, also when do you know its time?
You have three ways of doing it. One - You could just put the hardwood cuttings where they are going to stay - then there is no potting. Two - You could put them directly in the pot, then you can transport when they are rooted out well, which will be different times depending on the plants you are rooting. Three - You could put them in the ground and pot them up. You would pot them up when there would be little stress on them unless they are super hardy. An elderberry plant is an example of a super hardy plant - it's almost impossible to kill them by digging them up at any time during the year if they have enough roots. If you don't know how hardy the plant is, then wait about 10 months or so until the leaves fall off and the plant is dormant. That is the best time to move tender plants.
@@greatescapefarms Thank you.
@@MrBabysumo You are most welcome.
Why do you show hardwood cuttings of Muscadines since they only root from soft wood cuttings. I know since I propagate and sell Muscadine vines.
I did have limited success with hardwood.
Did you have success with Muscadine? I've heard you cant propagate hardwood cuttings of those.
I had limited success with the muscadines. I also have limited success with softwood cuttings on muscadines. Still working on a good process for them.
I have some semi-hardwood elderberries that I got in early August.
They're in seed starter soil in pots and are leafing out. What should I do with them going into fall?
Protect them from the harsh winter weather and water them if the soil dries significantly.
If they have already rooted out by August, then you can plant them in the ground where they are going after the leaves fall off in the fall/winter. They are dormant by that time and can handle the transplant shock. Plus having them in the ground will help protect their tender new roots.
I'm in wet western Oregon, and am thinking that it might make it easier for me to do the rootings inside where I can control the moisture content, otherwise things rot in the low oxygen-saturated soils we have here in winter. Would you recommend keeping the cuttings in cool temps, not house warm? Like my enclosed unheated porch?
If you keep the cuttings in a warm environment, then they will not go dormant and you will have to do a mist irrigation system to keep the leaves moist. I have a different problem than yours, but with a similar solution. I had some cuttings that were dormant and we were going down into the single digits outside, which would have killed the cuttings because they were pots and not protected in the ground. I moved my cuttings into my garage which usually stays a good bit warmer than outside. They overwintered just fine. I just moved them back out last week.
Hi, Tod! I stumbled upon your video of how to propagate Rose of Sharon and just had to subscribe. I have a hedge that was there when we bought our house, but it's very sparse and I would like to fill it out. My question is: have you tried propagating hardwood cuttings from Rose of Sharon? I live in Northern Utah, (zone 6b) so we still have snow on the ground, but things are starting to thaw out. I would like to get those started ASAP, so I'm curious if last year's growth might work the way you've shown in this video. Do you think it's worth a shot? Thanks in advance!
-Kat
Hi Kat - I'd say it is absolutely worth a shot. I have not tried Rose of Sharon with hardwood cuttings, but have had a very high success rate with softwood cuttings. That makes me think that they would work fine with hardwood cuttings as well. Good luck!
Great Escape Farms I will absolutely try it then! I hope it works out. Thank you for the quick response!
You are welcome!
fist, thanks for this video i live in he northen us and we get cold in winter so the plants go dormant. second, isn't comercial rooting hormone toxic to humans and advised not to use on edible plants.?
you can use Garden Safe Brand TakeRoot Rooting Hormone powder
I know the rooting hormones are an acid and can be dangerous to your skin and can not be ingested. I have not seen any sources saying not to use them on edible plants. I have been doing so for years on my plants and have not had any issues. If you have any sources stating not to use them on edible plants, please send that information this way and I'll vet the source out. Thanks!
Thanks for your response!
Pointless
To you maybe.