Thanks for the video. I wish I had seen this before buying the F69. The F69 is great, but as you said, it is more like plastic. I just ordered the F80 after watching your excellent description.
I just tried a print with the F80 (black). I'm making a replacement cover for the power and control terminals of a Minolta flash. It printed quite well in my Photon Mono at 4 seconds per layer and 45 seconds for three base layers. The only issue I had was that it was very difficult to remove the part from the plate. I usually print with Weistek Toughness, which just pops off. Looking at it in the curing machine, this stuff seems much less translucent than the Toughness resin. Not sure how that translates to curing times, but I left it in longer, just in case. The resultant part seems pretty good. Thanks for the tips and review.
Hi, can you plz try a tensile and break test on these two resins? Just print a tape and drag them till break, I am very interested in how big the elongation at break is
Thanks for the review! For model tyres, grip is also very important. Some flexible resins are very slippery so not suitable for tyres at all. Does any of this resins feel like it's grippy as rubber? Also: do you use different vats for different resins?
Hey thanks. I don't use different vats for resins, normally one for all. I just clean them well. The pink resin is more like rubber than the black one, at least to the touch, the black one is more like a flexible plastic.
Hi Luiz I'm wandering which one is the closest to an O-RING for my H&S Colani airbrush because I want to make my own ones because they are too expensives and very fragil ... They are made with Viton which is fluored caoutchouc so I think the F80 is the closest to Viton ??? Thanks by advance Eric
This is amazing. Can you give any more info on post-processing and finishing? How easy are supports to remove? Did you get large divots or scarring on the surface from using heavy supports? Can the surface be sanded or filed for cleanup? Can it be primed and painted? With printer settings, did you need to add any delays after a lift or lower to allow the resin to settle and flow back into position? Definitely going to pick up som of this stuff!!
Hey, all information I have I shared on the video. About some of your questions here: the heavy supports leave some marks, that's normal I think, not that different from other resins. The configurations I just tried to follow the recommended settings on Resione website. I did not tried to paint anything but I believe it's ok. Hope you get good results. Thanks for watching
I am trying to create grips for my sim wheel. Do you recomend the F69 or F80? Also people are telling me I need to mix with a sold resin. Is this necessary? I wanted max flex.
I'm curious how the flexible stuff compares to tenacious. This looked closer to rubber (which their site says it's rubber like), while tenacious is more a very flexible plastic (slow return, hard but flexes a lot, lacks abrasion resistance but also isn't going to stick fine particles into itself). PS. have you seen the price on these! they are all about double to quadruple the cost of Siraya's line. (eg fast grey from Siraya is $35/1kg, but these are more like $100/kg and up) I do like that they have a sale system to handle non-uniform resins, but that still leaves them about $70/kg
I felt the F69 one more tenacious than the F80, like I said, the F80 feels like rubber, stretch like rubber, the other one is more like a rigid plastic. Their resin are expensive in general, but they're very good quality in general. if you live in US it's easy for you to get Siraya, I live in EU here it's hard and expesive to find Siraya, so Resione is a good pick.
@@HobbyistLife Yeah, that octopus sure looked stretchy (good thing in that instance). My brother is interested in 3d printing new rubber intake boots for his '86 kawasaki. I don't think tenacious would do it right, but maybe that F80 or another of their rubber-like resins would do that. (gotta find out about heat and gasoline & oil resistance). He was looking at ninjaflex, but I don't have that kind of printer.
There are some products designed for coloring resins and some resins are made to be colored with those dyes. But I already saw people experimenting with all kind of resins and it normally works. I suggest you do some experiments.
Hey, thanks a lot. It varies from printer to printer, in my case if I remember I printed using a Photon Mono and Bene4 mono. You can try Lychee latest version and they have a feature to find settings from the community. But I also suggest you check Resinone website, on their support page, they have a spreadsheet with settings for different printers there.
@@HobbyistLife yes iv tried the community profiles and the suggested settings from website but still same outcome is on mono x il try some silicon release agent on the Fep. Thanks for your reply I have great prints with normal resin this stuff is very tricky lol what uv power did you use ?
@@trimmxx2169 the printers I had at the time did not have UV power adjustment, so I assume it's 100%. But even with my printers with uv power adjustment I normally do not change it, I leave the default one. But I see people normally using 80% for more sensitive resins.
I'm so happy I've found this episode 🎉 I've just started 3d printing with a Saturn 8k I was wondering what the flexible resin was like . Now I know thank you 💚✌️
I had the same faults because setting up the support wrong. I'm working in Leechy, from the resin settings I saw that you use the same slicer. How do you get the supports straight in Leechy? I can't find an option to alter the angle of the tip.
Hey, I did not have any problem to remove it from the build plate in both cases. It was harder to clean the excess resin but nothing terrible, it needs at least to clean 2 times with IPA for it to be completely clean. But apart from that it was ok
Amigo. Tienes los parámetros en chitubox? O que programa usa? Porque me descargué los oficiales y no sirven y son muy diferentes a los suyos y quería probar los suyos. Gracias
I use Lychee, I don't use Chitu, but the name of the parameters are different but in the end they're all the same. Normal exposure, bottom exposure, number of bottom layers and things like that. You can use my recommendation on the video. Best
I have a Longer Orange 4K Mono. Can I still get highly detailed prints with the F80 resin? I plan on printing a negative mold and cast 2-part polyurethane resin copies of my model. Do you think this will work?
From my experience, I think the F80 was better, but some people already mentioned that F69 also is good, maybe the configurations I used for F69 made it less elastic and more plastic. I did not test it again after this video.
Have you tried to mix the m70 with lets say 5-10% f80 or f69? I want to print high quality minis but for tabletop I would like them to have a little flex and be less brittle.
I believe yes, there's no restriction on which type of printer you can use it. I used it on printer far less advanced than the M5s Pro and it worked. You just need to find the right exposure, this is a resin not very easy to work with. I recommend goes to Resione page, normally they share a spreadsheet with settings suggestions there, on the resin page.
Hello. I have just bought Resione M80 Elastic Resin. I want to try them in my two Printers: PHROZEN Sonic Mini 4K ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X Can I ask you if you have the recommended Printing Settings for these two machines? I have taken a look at the Resione web site but the printing settings look very generic, I think that you have more experience in the settings. Thank you in advance
Hi! I did not try it on my Phrozen Sonic mini 4k, did not even tried since this printer has some real issues with arm platform bending and things like that that I just didn't want to try. But the photon mono it works fine, I think I put the settings in the video for the photon mono. 3.5s normal layer exposure, 45 bottom exposure 3 layers.
Did not try that but the resin is super resistent, I think it will take a while til it break. I don't know if it's like PVC, it's a flexible plastic basically, it's a good resin, it's cool if you need something that absorbs impact and hard to break.
vlw pelo conteudo man, muito explicativo. gostei da ideia da resina flex pq posso fazer os moldes de gesso e sabonete direto sem ter que fazer matrix e negativo
Black resin (anyone) "contaminate " all yuor isopropil alcihol with black resin, be carfeull if yuo print gray or other color resin and the whash in that alcohol..model gone have a lot of black dots in it (no problem if yuo paint it)
The bottom exposure time varies from resin to resin, for this specific resin that was the time that worked for me. This resin has totally different properties than regular resin. If you want to try less, it's ok, mine was a suggestion from what worked for me. But there are many variables that need to be considered with resin settings, like room temperature for example that changes a lot those settings. That's why many content creators do not like to share settings. Hope it helped. Thanks for watching
@@HobbyistLife I don't think I can ever use this resin, since they won't ship here, but I always like to watch your videos, you experiment with bunch not popular resin and very spcified type of resin. And for the bottom exposure, it ussually not more then 10 times of Normal Layers Exposure, my best bet 40sec is more than enough, but hey...I never test this resin, so I could be wrong. Keep on experiment, it help others to get know other type of resin.
I think your watchers need to know how incredibly viscous f80 is, and how incredibly bad it smells - this is the highest odor resin I've had the misfortune to use
The smell I didn't notice that much, maybe it was my batch, but the viscosity definitely it looks like bubble gum. You're absolutely right. It's hard to work with this resin.
i just bought this one. and i tested. first prints ok with Anycubic Photon S, the resin expands a bit
Thanks for the video. I wish I had seen this before buying the F69. The F69 is great, but as you said, it is more like plastic. I just ordered the F80 after watching your excellent description.
I just tried a print with the F80 (black). I'm making a replacement cover for the power and control terminals of a Minolta flash. It printed quite well in my Photon Mono at 4 seconds per layer and 45 seconds for three base layers. The only issue I had was that it was very difficult to remove the part from the plate. I usually print with Weistek Toughness, which just pops off. Looking at it in the curing machine, this stuff seems much less translucent than the Toughness resin. Not sure how that translates to curing times, but I left it in longer, just in case. The resultant part seems pretty good. Thanks for the tips and review.
Tty less time , about 35-40 secondsfor the first layers, its gone be more easy to quit from the build plate
Thank you for sharing your experience with the two resins not many video out there on this!!!
Hi, can you plz try a tensile and break test on these two resins? Just print a tape and drag them till break, I am very interested in how big the elongation at break is
Thanks for the review! For model tyres, grip is also very important. Some flexible resins are very slippery so not suitable for tyres at all. Does any of this resins feel like it's grippy as rubber? Also: do you use different vats for different resins?
Hey thanks. I don't use different vats for resins, normally one for all. I just clean them well. The pink resin is more like rubber than the black one, at least to the touch, the black one is more like a flexible plastic.
Hi Luiz
I'm wandering which one is the closest to an O-RING for my H&S Colani airbrush because I want to make my own ones because they are too expensives and very fragil ...
They are made with Viton which is fluored caoutchouc so I think the F80 is the closest to Viton ???
Thanks by advance
Eric
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the vid!
This is amazing. Can you give any more info on post-processing and finishing?
How easy are supports to remove?
Did you get large divots or scarring on the surface from using heavy supports?
Can the surface be sanded or filed for cleanup?
Can it be primed and painted?
With printer settings, did you need to add any delays after a lift or lower to allow the resin to settle and flow back into position?
Definitely going to pick up som of this stuff!!
Hey, all information I have I shared on the video. About some of your questions here: the heavy supports leave some marks, that's normal I think, not that different from other resins. The configurations I just tried to follow the recommended settings on Resione website. I did not tried to paint anything but I believe it's ok. Hope you get good results. Thanks for watching
I am trying to create grips for my sim wheel. Do you recomend the F69 or F80? Also people are telling me I need to mix with a sold resin. Is this necessary? I wanted max flex.
I'm curious how the flexible stuff compares to tenacious. This looked closer to rubber (which their site says it's rubber like), while tenacious is more a very flexible plastic (slow return, hard but flexes a lot, lacks abrasion resistance but also isn't going to stick fine particles into itself).
PS. have you seen the price on these! they are all about double to quadruple the cost of Siraya's line. (eg fast grey from Siraya is $35/1kg, but these are more like $100/kg and up)
I do like that they have a sale system to handle non-uniform resins, but that still leaves them about $70/kg
I felt the F69 one more tenacious than the F80, like I said, the F80 feels like rubber, stretch like rubber, the other one is more like a rigid plastic. Their resin are expensive in general, but they're very good quality in general. if you live in US it's easy for you to get Siraya, I live in EU here it's hard and expesive to find Siraya, so Resione is a good pick.
@@HobbyistLife Yeah, that octopus sure looked stretchy (good thing in that instance).
My brother is interested in 3d printing new rubber intake boots for his '86 kawasaki. I don't think tenacious would do it right, but maybe that F80 or another of their rubber-like resins would do that. (gotta find out about heat and gasoline & oil resistance).
He was looking at ninjaflex, but I don't have that kind of printer.
Thanks for sharing! You think we can color the objects after printing? Maybe if the resin is clear color, we can add paint or tint?
There are some products designed for coloring resins and some resins are made to be colored with those dyes. But I already saw people experimenting with all kind of resins and it normally works. I suggest you do some experiments.
@@HobbyistLife Merci my friend!!! 😀
Great video I dont suppose you have the lychee profile that you used ? I'm having real trouble with it sticking to the fep and not the plate ?
Hey, thanks a lot. It varies from printer to printer, in my case if I remember I printed using a Photon Mono and Bene4 mono. You can try Lychee latest version and they have a feature to find settings from the community. But I also suggest you check Resinone website, on their support page, they have a spreadsheet with settings for different printers there.
@@HobbyistLife yes iv tried the community profiles and the suggested settings from website but still same outcome is on mono x il try some silicon release agent on the Fep. Thanks for your reply I have great prints with normal resin this stuff is very tricky lol what uv power did you use ?
@@trimmxx2169 the printers I had at the time did not have UV power adjustment, so I assume it's 100%. But even with my printers with uv power adjustment I normally do not change it, I leave the default one. But I see people normally using 80% for more sensitive resins.
I'm so happy I've found this episode 🎉 I've just started 3d printing with a Saturn 8k I was wondering what the flexible resin was like . Now I know thank you 💚✌️
I had the same faults because setting up the support wrong. I'm working in Leechy, from the resin settings I saw that you use the same slicer. How do you get the supports straight in Leechy? I can't find an option to alter the angle of the tip.
Awesome! Thank you for posting
Any issues getting the models off the build plate? I did a full plate print with F39 and having a real bad day trying to get the remains off it
Hey, I did not have any problem to remove it from the build plate in both cases. It was harder to clean the excess resin but nothing terrible, it needs at least to clean 2 times with IPA for it to be completely clean. But apart from that it was ok
Can you help me with some prameters to his resin F80, i have Anycubic Photon, Photon S, Mono X, Phrozen mini 4k
Amigo. Tienes los parámetros en chitubox? O que programa usa? Porque me descargué los oficiales y no sirven y son muy diferentes a los suyos y quería probar los suyos. Gracias
I use Lychee, I don't use Chitu, but the name of the parameters are different but in the end they're all the same. Normal exposure, bottom exposure, number of bottom layers and things like that. You can use my recommendation on the video. Best
I have a Longer Orange 4K Mono. Can I still get highly detailed prints with the F80 resin? I plan on printing a negative mold and cast 2-part polyurethane resin copies of my model. Do you think this will work?
If you would print grips mounted on a sim racing steering wheel. Which one would you use for it. Having the best grip to hold the steering wheel
From my experience, I think the F80 was better, but some people already mentioned that F69 also is good, maybe the configurations I used for F69 made it less elastic and more plastic. I did not test it again after this video.
hi! how is the surface texture of F69, is it soft and smooth at touching or it's like a real rubber that give grip by slither on?
thanks! :)
Please give CHITOOBOX settings for F69 to Voxelab proxima 6.0 printer.
Have you tried to mix the m70 with lets say 5-10% f80 or f69? I want to print high quality minis but for tabletop I would like them to have a little flex and be less brittle.
Never tried it, maybe it works.
@@HobbyistLife you should try it if you have some left xD before I buy the f80 ;))))
They did a vid of mixing the flexible with 50/50 their black K resin (it's a tough resin) which made it a basically unbreakable bendable plastic.
I was wondering how can I use F80 resin on Anycubic Photon Mono M5s Pro
I believe yes, there's no restriction on which type of printer you can use it. I used it on printer far less advanced than the M5s Pro and it worked. You just need to find the right exposure, this is a resin not very easy to work with. I recommend goes to Resione page, normally they share a spreadsheet with settings suggestions there, on the resin page.
can u actually paint it? or will the paint go off when it flexes?
Any one have trouble with the prints sticking too much to the vat? Does not want to pull off as it’s printing.
I wonder how well F80 takes resin colorants and stuff like mica enhanced pigments..
Please review m58 and K too. Thanks.
When I get it in some sale I will do that or if Resione send me some. Thanks for your support 🙏
Wanna ask if both of them have strong smell?
Not very strong, but it has a smell, for more sensitive people it can be bad. I recommend work with it in a ventilated environment.
How does it deal with painting ?
Hey, never tried to paint it, I believe if you prime it, it will handle well some painting.
Hello. I have just bought Resione M80 Elastic Resin.
I want to try them in my two Printers:
PHROZEN Sonic Mini 4K
ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X
Can I ask you if you have the recommended Printing Settings for these two machines?
I have taken a look at the Resione web site but the printing settings look very generic, I think that you have more experience in the settings.
Thank you in advance
Hi! I did not try it on my Phrozen Sonic mini 4k, did not even tried since this printer has some real issues with arm platform bending and things like that that I just didn't want to try. But the photon mono it works fine, I think I put the settings in the video for the photon mono. 3.5s normal layer exposure, 45 bottom exposure 3 layers.
I don't have the photon mono X, so the settings can differ of course from the standard mono
Hi..is the the black resin something like pvc?
Did you try bending the black resin support many times and does it break after awhile?
Did not try that but the resin is super resistent, I think it will take a while til it break. I don't know if it's like PVC, it's a flexible plastic basically, it's a good resin, it's cool if you need something that absorbs impact and hard to break.
@@HobbyistLife nice!
vlw pelo conteudo man, muito explicativo.
gostei da ideia da resina flex pq posso fazer os moldes de gesso e sabonete direto sem ter que fazer matrix e negativo
Black resin (anyone) "contaminate " all yuor isopropil alcihol with black resin, be carfeull if yuo print gray or other color resin and the whash in that alcohol..model gone have a lot of black dots in it (no problem if yuo paint it)
60s exposure? that is loooong time.
The bottom exposure time varies from resin to resin, for this specific resin that was the time that worked for me. This resin has totally different properties than regular resin. If you want to try less, it's ok, mine was a suggestion from what worked for me. But there are many variables that need to be considered with resin settings, like room temperature for example that changes a lot those settings. That's why many content creators do not like to share settings. Hope it helped. Thanks for watching
@@HobbyistLife I don't think I can ever use this resin, since they won't ship here, but I always like to watch your videos, you experiment with bunch not popular resin and very spcified type of resin.
And for the bottom exposure, it ussually not more then 10 times of Normal Layers Exposure, my best bet 40sec is more than enough, but hey...I never test this resin, so I could be wrong.
Keep on experiment, it help others to get know other type of resin.
I think your watchers need to know how incredibly viscous f80 is, and how incredibly bad it smells - this is the highest odor resin I've had the misfortune to use
The smell I didn't notice that much, maybe it was my batch, but the viscosity definitely it looks like bubble gum. You're absolutely right. It's hard to work with this resin.
could You sell me someone part ?.