Incredibly helpful video. From it I learned that this is way too complicated for me. Too many places to mess up. Think I've just live with my dusty viewfinder for now.
I think this is a perfectly acceptable realization. So many people jump into restorations of vintage gear when they just aren't really equipped or skilled enough. One day maybe it will increase in value to the point that repairs are well worth it
Excellent video. The later, Hong Kong-built K1000 has a different configuration under the rewind knob, but the procedure is self-evident. It also has top cover retaining screws one on either side of the prism, near the black trim piece. Finally, the release plunger on the HK camera is not a separate piece; it's held in place with an external snap ring and you do not have to touch it. ...... Two suggestions: First, remove the light meter battery before starting disassembly. The pointer in the viewfinder is "live" if the battery is installed, and you might bump it and damage it. Second, use a piece of masking tape to cover the latch end of the film door back. If you were to accidentally snap it closed while the rewind knob is removed, you will find it just about impossible to re-open the film door. Thanks!
Some good information on the differences of the later Pentax K1000. Thank you for the post and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. Also good advice on closing the film door with the rewind knob and particularly the rewind shaft removed. If someone finds themselves in such a dilemma this video might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/gQJQgdE4ISc/v-deo.html
Fix Old Cameras Thank you so much for the great video !! I'd requested for this video less than a week ago and its already up on the channel. Your help is greatly appreciated :D
Fortunately for you it was already in the works. You just had good timing. It would be nice to post all request in a timely manner, but the list is long. Your patience and interest as always is greatly appreciated.
Please note the omitted mention of the clockwise rotation at the point of removal of the advance lever retainer and the possibility of a different configuration of the advance lever retainer and nut.
This is superb - thanks for recording this. I'd also be very interested in learning about troubleshooting light meter issues, as I have an SPII that's over exposing by a couple of stops. I'd get it CLA'd, but I've already got six bodies that have been recently serviced!
Six bodies... excellent to hear. Thank you for your suggestion and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. At some point in time it would be nice to have a series of videos on issues in galvanometer based meter systems featured in many classic and vintage cameras.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I think it could be a model for how to do repair videos -- clear, thorough, and perfectly paced. I've just removed the prism from a K1000 and discovered the same problem Andrew Florian and dreekd80 described. It sounds like a common failure point. It might be useful to note that the advance lever cover nut (in addition to the counter retainer screw -- thank you for that warning) is reverse-threaded. (I saw that you rotated the spanner clockwise and had no problem.)
The k1000 SE is a different model, mine had a sort of black mold inside the prism ! Do o couldn’t fix it but still the video has been incredible helpful ! Thank you so much
Excellent video! Thanks! If I was to do this to my Asahi Pentax SP would the procedure be the same? I assume the internals are comparable? I have a very dirty viewfinder and the foam needs replacing. Love these vids. Thanks again
Yeah, I have a nearly perfect Honeywell Pentax SP1000 except for a small dent where the camera apparently landed on its hot shoe (the original shoe must have broken as mine had a Mamiya/Sekor shoe when I got it). I am looking to replace my top with a NOS Asahi Pentax top, so this is very helpful. I am going to make a practice run on a trashed SP500 I have to see if I can disassemble and reassemble without any issue, then take on the SP 1000. By the way, I think what you have is a very early Spotmatic as the screw is in the side. My first SLR was an Asahi Spotmatic like that one and it also had the screws in the side and it was from around 1967. That one, unfortunately, got away from me at some point.
One criticism: You didn't mention that the Advance Lever Cover Nut has reverse threads. But, it is detectable from the video. Other than that, the video is excellent. I was able to use it to get into the prism of my Pentax. Thank you very much.
Good to hear of your successful adaptation. Just be aware that undo torque can sometimes bend the tips of tweezers when using them as a spanner wrench. Other times, as in your application, they are the perfect tool for the job.
yeah, i just got an early k1000 with the light meter stuck in the middle. battery compartment was all corroded, but so was the other k1000 that came in the case and that one worked. sigh. tried the wiggling things back and forth tricks listed online, still nothing...
@@punkrachmaninoff I realize this is a couple of months old, but with the light meter you need to point it at something fairly bright in order for it to activate. If not it just stays off andin the middle. Not sure if that's the problem or something else. Just trying to help you or anyone else reading with a similar problem.
Thank you for posting this. I have recently discovered mold when I look through the viewfinder of my K1000. I believe the viewfinder screen is clean and that the mold may be growing on the prism or within the cover viewfinder window. Do you have any recommendations on how to remove it and perhaps prevent it's growth in the future?
If the bottom surface to the prism is clean than, it is possibly the reflective material coating the prism is separating from the glass. Might be best to swap out the prism.
Cool video. I have a later (non Ashai, circa 1992) K1000 that was given to me which I relegated to bring a parts camera because of mold on the prism. I am guessing the disassembly is similar, although comparing it to my 1980 K1000 SE, it looks like Pentax made some changes to the design as a cost cutting measure.
I've been waiting for this video a while and now I have no excuse to clean my Pentax K1000 and reuse like in the good old days. Thank you very much for this video.
At 3:55 it looks like it is possible to remove the viewfinder screen, if that right, also I'm wondering if by removing the focus screen adjustment screws from underneath the screen can be removed, someone said that it's possible to remove from below? (the question refers to a spotmatic F, which I believe is pretty similar to a K1000)
3:47 Once that nasty red foam is removed (The source of trouble in most cases where debris are detaching), do you need to replace this with any material s.a. tiny sponge or a custom cut filter material to replace the dustproofing system or no replacement is OK?
No need to replace. Nothing bad will happen if you leave it out. But if you leave it in something bad will happen. Is it for sound dampening? Maybe. Is it a dust seal? Most likely. Is it simply for appearances? Possible. Is known why or when the first manufacture installed the destined to degrade foam on and around the prism? And why all followed suit? Don't think so.
@@FixOldCameras Thanks a lot for the explanation. Makes sense. What really makes me to wonder is Pentax's top quality film SLR body, K1000 (Ask any college photography class instructor) has chosen all the immortal quality stuff for this body except this funny spong that not only falls apart, invariably, it is right in front of your eyes to scar your view every time you look through the viewfinder, even though this is without any false result on IQ. Again thx for you good reply.
Ok. I know this is an old video, but I’m at 1:49 into this top plate removal and I can’t get the spanner to budge the counter housing cover! Any ideas to get this thing unstuck!
First of all, thank you for the outstanding quality tutorial! I believe that I have one of the older Japanese 1976-1978 models. The advance lever cover nut has no spanner wrench holes. The advance lever cover nut has two female square shaped notches near the center of the spindle and appears to be a part of the cover nut. Try to remove the cover nut by turning it left-handed thread on the outside diameter? Thank you!
+Joshua Schaeffer I got it. The silver center nut I was referring to did have to be removed. It is a separate nut and not integral to the advance lever cover, and left hand thread. Thanks!
The only tool I used besides the obvious screwdrivers was a modified set of needle-nose pliers which I ground the jaws down to sharp points on a bench grinder.
Hi, yesterday I managed to purchase a real nice K1000. The issue is, as the previous owner explained: he had taken the top plate off for a prism clean, but forgot the shutter speed and film speed settings he had set both at! I've sorted out the shutter speed, just found bulb and set the dial. However, how do I find the true ASA setting? The only thing I can think of is to run film through it, let's say 400 at 400 setting, take the film for developing, compare the developed exposure to see if it looks true to the setting and keep changing the film ASA until I fall upon the correct dial value then change dial to correct value. I hope that makes sense. Can't think of any other way to accomplish finding the true ASA value other than trail and error by shooting film and checking out the developed results.
Awesome video man, I learned a lot from this. Could you do a video showing how to troubleshoot light meter issues with the K1000? I can read repair manuals, but I can't quite visualize some things.
I heard elsewhere that the Canon T50/70's prism is usable to replace those with damaged silver coating from late K1000 versions. From your experience, is this information correct? I have a T70 prism here and an "Assembled in China" K1000 with a seriously damaged prism and I am considering to do an attempt. Should I consider to patch some 2mm thick foam on it?
Thanks for this and other videos. I have 3 KXs, two of which I might try to sell, that the little prism window showing the lens aperture ( "Judas window"?) is a bit, or completely, misaligned. I hope removing the top is the same as this k1000 and perhaps my problem will be evident upon removal. Also, when replacing the ASA dial, could replacing it differently on purpose be done as a way of adjusting the meter if you think it is off? Probably, when I get around to doing it, it will be obvious if that would work or not.
First off... how did a one way peep hole for viewing the aperture numbers come to be called a Judas window? Moving on... the Pentax KX (not to be confused with the K-x) has a very similar advance lever and counter configuration to the Pentax K-1000. However the shutter dial of the KX lacks the incorporation of the ASA function as in the K-1000. The ASA function of the KX as been moved under the rewind knob, but it is a straightforward assembly that should give you little trouble. ASA position can be used to compensate for an inaccurate meter. But it is preferably to find and repair the actual cause of the meter issue.
I had come across others using the term, never having seen it before, and looked it up. www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/336577-asahi-pentax-kx-aperture-reader-window.html ------------- www.mail-archive.com/pdml@pdml.net/msg62175.html ------- en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Judas_window ------- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Judas_Window ------ www.waywordradio.org/judas_window/ etc The term doesn't seem appropriate as when I observe the f stop I am not doing so surreptitiously. Maybe the camera feels differently.
Well sir, I took my K 1000 apart with little trouble. Your instruction was perfect. Unfortunately, the dirt or foam scum or whayever it is (it may even be mold - this cam was in the basement for a few years, albeit in a cam case), is not ON the prism, it's actually INSIDE the prism. I can't imagine ho that coul have happened, unless it is indeed some kind of mold. Unless the prism itself can be disassembled and reassembled, it's over. Time to hit up eBay I guess. Thanks again for your tutelage. It was invaluable!
***** Yes, what happen was the degrading foam actually ate into the silver reflective coating of the prism. Good to hear your repair attempt went well.
If the degraded foam is in on the glass surface of the prism then clean it with alcohol. If the degraded foam is on the plastic fresnel viewfinder lens clean it with distilled water only following the concentric circles of the viewfinder screen. Often the oil from the foam leaves a mark on the screen even after cleaning.
Thanks for this video. I was able to clean the prism on my K1000. The detent spring in the rewind shaft housing is a pain in the ass. Question: the foam around the prism on my camera is a gooey mess. Should I clean it completely off the prism edges before re-installation, and if so, does the old foam need to be replaced with new foam?
LOL... yes the spring can be troublesome. The old foam should be completely removed as the deteriorating mess can damage the reflective coating of the prism. It does not need to be replaced as its absence will not negatively affect the cameras operation. If you would like to replace it use wool felt of a similar thickness and you need not ever be concerned of its future condition.
First I would like to THANK YOU for all your awesome videos. It has helped me so much fixing cameras. One issue that i can never find any video or any explanation online is on how to fix a Pentax k1000 light meter. My Pentax k1000 has the meter stuck in the middle. It doesn't move up or down with brand new battery. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you again. You guys rock!!!!
Tcho Carvalho First make sure that there is battery voltage present at the circuit. Follow the battery wire up to the circuit and check with a multimeter. Check for broken wires that run across the prism. The insulation can look good even though the integrity of the wire is compromised. See if the galvanometer will react to direct voltage. You can use a 1.5 button battery for this. Just a momentary touch of the wire to the battery terminals. It will peg the needle if the galvanometer is still good. If the "galvo" checks out then it leaves the CDS (light dependent resistor) cell or a circuit issue. The CDS cell can be checked with an ohm meter. A change in the intensity of light striking the cell should cause the resistance to change accordingly. If the "cell" and the "galvo" check then you are left with a detective circuit or circuitry.
hey there, great video! one question, what happens if you accidentally turned (and broke off) the counter dial left-handed screw? how will the rest of the screw be taken out? much appreciated
I have just got one this past weekend and have been searching for help on the disassembly. Your video showed up just in time! Thank you! Great channel by the way, subbed! Quick question. Through my cameras viewfinder, there is black fungus growing on it, which I'm guessing is the old foam underneath spreading around the prism. Is it safe to clean it off the prism with isopropyl alcohol?
The prism can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol with no detrimental effects. If the silver coating is separating from the glass of the prism it could possibly be the cause of what you have encountered. If that is the case it really is not practical to try and salvage the prism.
hey!!! is there any way I can remove the focusing screen on the the K1000? I want to replace it with another one I have from another K1000 that has the body in a worse condition and without a working light meter
Hi. Thanks for the videos,very helpfull. I have a pentax K1000 and the ligt meter stays all the tine in the centre. I have changed the battery but nothing happened. What do you sugest i should do? Thanks
Make sure there is not a slight layer of corrosion on the contact and battery lid. Sometimes the corrosion will actually occur underneath the plating on the battery cap and the plating will need to scraped down to the brass. If this is the case you will notice a slight bubbling of the plating. Otherwise you probably have a failed or stuck galvanometer.
Fix Old Cameras Hello again. Thanks for your answer. I have removed the top cover and prism, and galvanometer is not stuck. Since there i didn't find any problem, i have removed the bottom cover and the battery dock. There i find the wire is cut out because of corrosion. Now i have another problem, i can't stick back the wire, The old tin was to hard and i could not melt, and the new tin don't want to stick on the plate.Any ideas
The plated battery disc contact is very difficult to solder after it has corroded. Conductive Epoxy adhesive or Solder Paste could be used but it is fairly expensive for such a job. Make a replacement contact from a disc of brass or copper. You could also use a battery contact from a discarded device. Glue into place with a dab of 100 % silicone adhesive.
I have a Spotmatic SP, and the release button and the release plunger (2:45) popped out after I tried to use a shutter release cable. (imgur.com/a/YOp7H) When I put both of them back in, it works like normal, but if the camera gets turned upside down, both pieces fall out again. Do you have any suggestions for what I can do to fix it?
The release button unit is attached to the metal of the top cover by a swagging process. Once the button unit has been pulled free of the top cover there is rarely enough metal to re-swag the unit in place. If you ever want to be able to use a cable release you will probably need to replace the top cover with a secure release button unit. If you have no interest in using a cable release, then a small amount of epoxy glue will hold the release button unit in place well enough to allow for careful use. It is strongly suggested that you remove the top cover before attempting to glue the button in place. Manage the amount of glue carefully as you do not want it to restrict the movement of the button and plunger within the unit.
Are release button units something I can buy online? I'd rather not use glue if possible. Alternately, I found this ebay listing for a replacement top cover - www.ebay.com/itm/185517-PENTAX-SPOTMATIC-SP-TOP-COVER-REPAIR-PART-/381559089112
Glue is never the first choice. If the top cover you are considering using to repair your camera is the same as broken top cover by all means swap them out. You might ask the seller in advance as to the condition of the release button where it attaches to the top cover.
Hi, Im planning on applying loctite on the hot shoe screws because they are loose. Will this interfere with future attempts to dissasemble the top cover?
Many apologies. The step described does not apply. The Pentax ME Super you describe will need to have the top cover and prism removed as it has a fixed VF screen.
i have the correct spanner necessary to remove the Advance lever cover nut and i am most definitely rotating in the correct direction, however, no matter how much force and strength i put behind it, i cannot unscrew it. The entire inner workings of my Pentax K1000 (mine does not have the "asahi" insignia) is working perfectly well besides a rather prominent "dusty" "black spot" taking up roughly one sixth of my total viewfinder (in the center bottom). I was hoping you may be able to provide me with some advice are an alternative method.
Even though it sounds wrong... try going in the opposite direction, it might break free. Also try applying heat from the tip of a soldering iron. Watch out that the hot tip does not come in contact with plastic parts.
If i have a k1000 that seems to have a working exposure meter, but in low light the needle moves to the center and do not seem to respond to shutter speed and aperture changes. Does it need to be repaired or is it normal? I think it should be doing that in darker scenarios due to the photo cell on/off switch.
Make sure the battery output is very close to 1.5 volts. The meter should move to the bottom when in a low light situation with slow shutter speed settings with a wide open aperture bringing the needle back to the center position as conditions warrant. When the meter is switch is off the needle may not always rest at the bottom of the bracket, but in some cameras will come to rest at the lower half of the bracket.
I know you asked his a long time ago, but the meter only works in a certain scope of EV values (I have heard it's EV 3-16), so in really dark or super light it will return to the middle and not function. Totally normal behavior.
I have a Pentax (Heiland) H2 which I can't get the top cover off because I can't remove the film advance lever assembly. I removed the top screw, the trim washer, the round nut, and the film counter ring. I thought now all I would have to do is turn the lever about 90 deg. and lift the lever assembly off but it's not coming off. Any idea what I'm doing wrong. Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Could you make a video on how to remove the prism and clean the focusing screen on a Pentax ME Super? I watched you videos about replacing light seals and gave it a try it turned out pretty good. Thanks again for posting the videos.
Please help! How much more difficult is this to do on a Canon A1? It seems mine has a hazed light meter condenser lens so i would probably have to clean/replace that. A video on this subject would be very much appreciated as it seems to be a common problem. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There is a flex circuit that is position over the top of the prism that will need to be removed to access the prism. If you want to see what it looks like you can check out the Fix Old Camera videos featuring the A-1.
I just bought a Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic at a yard sale, and I can’t get the shutter to open. I’m trying to open the bottom panel, but I can’t find a screwdriver small enough for the little screws on the bottom. Are those the only way to open it?
Use a 2.5mm JIS crosspoint screwdriver. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras Affiliate disclosure: Please be advised that the link provided is an affiliate link and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you choose to make a purchase using this link. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is greatly appreciated. Thank you for making any purchases through the link on this channel.
What can you do if you forget the arbitrary shutter speed and ASA settings when you took off the setting dial? Is there a solution to reset them somehow?
As theconstruc67 says you could probably remove the top cover with the film in the camera and not fog it. But it is advisable to remove the film before begining a repair. Make a note of the the film counter and then rewind it taking care to stop rewinding at the moment you feel the film leader release from the spool. Reload the film to the same spot on the leader and then advance and release the camera with the lens cap on until you arrive back to the film counter position it was on.
I got mine just today from a seller on Ebay but it was already used thats why it was $50. But once it arrived it had a piece of noticeable dust inside the viewfinder, and i’m wondering how much it would cost to get it fixed professionally. If I take it to a camera store where they fix cameras would it be expensive? or not at all?
Check with local camera shops to see what they might charge if they are even willing to look at a vintage camera. Otherwise you can try a bulb blower to dust lodge the dust. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras If it is degraded mirror cushion foam do not wipe it out as it will smudge and scar the soft plastic of the VF screen. Do not use lens cleaning solution on the VF screen. If you must use only distilled water. If you can not find local help. You may go to phototronic.biz/
I see you still answer questions, so I thought I'd try. The curtain tension adjustment gear panel on the bottom is sticking out some 1 mm after the screws were loosened, so that I can't fit the bottom cover on properly. Can you advice how to get the shafts to slide into the slots again? I think I need to open the top cover, and there seems to be some sort of a chip there, that might need to be removed too(?)
If the curtains rollers are no longer seated as they should be, the top cover, front plate and mirror box will probably have to be removed for you to be able to reset the shutter rollers.
Thanks for the reply. I figured as much. I'm surprised how few of these k1000 disassembly videos there are online. Or photos for that matter. I actually almost got them in by just loosening the gears from below and wiggling them around, but then something went off, and the other won't go in, so now I've got all apart except for the front piece, because I don't like the idea of tearing off the leatherette... but I guess I'll have to do that tomorrow, otherwise I'll just have a lure box full of gears and washers.
I have just bought one of these cameras and I've noticed that one of the strap ring eyelets attached to the camera is loose. Is this repairable by a professional, how much of a big job would it be? Thanks
If it looks like fungus it is probably a separation of the reflective coating of the prism. Typically the solution is to replace the damaged prism. See the Fix Old Cameras video Olympus OM-1 Prism Foam Cleaning. The foam cushion continues to degrade and damages the reflective coating of the prism of these cameras if the foam is not removed.
Hi, I have been trying to open the top cover on my Spotmatic but the part under the rewind crank would not move at all. It is the part that requires a spanner wrench which I used but did not work. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Apply heat from the tip of a soldering iron and try again. Be aware of plastic parts so as not to come in contact with the hot iron. Alcohol seeped around the retainer might also help.
Hi! I was wondering if I have a crack on top surface of my view finder screen would it affect my pictures? and if it does what is the size of the view finder screen I would need to get?
Hey so I forgot which ASA it was on while I removed the dial (took a picture of it but it apparently never saved, thanks ICloud). How can i find which ASA the plate corresponds to? (For the shutterspeed I can just put on “b”) Thanks a lot
It will go one the wrong way 180 degrees out of sync and you meter will be goofy. Flip it and you will be fine. Set your shutter speed to 125, set your aperture to 1/16 on a sunny day move the ASA control until the meter needle centers and you should be in the range of ASA 125. At this point you will know which way the ASA dial is seated.
I got a used K1000 for free from a lady a few days ago and the lens wont seem to focus no matter what setting I turn to or where I point it. Is that a lens problem or would the prism have anything to do with that?
It could be an issue with the focus screen or it could be an issue with the lens or both. If you can try the lens on another camera or a different known good lens on your camera you will be able to isolate the problem.
I dropped my NIKON D500. Looks like the bottom of the lens took the impact, there is no visible damage (not even a scratch in the paint) on the body. BUT, now the view through the viewfinder is totally blurry. Camera focuses fine and shots are in focus when using live-view or viewing the photo on the LCD panel. Everything else seems to work as usual, I just can't see any of the details inside the viewfinder or view the frame in focus before taking the shot. I tried adjusting the diopter but it seems like it doesn't do anything, no change to blurrines/focus through the viewfinder when I adjust the slider. Any ideas what may be wrong? I will most likely take it to service but thought I'd ask here as well in case anyone has had a similar issue/fix.
Thank you for taking the time to post a comment, however Fix Old Cameras is a channel featuring classic and vintage film cameras. Hopefully you will be able to find a solution on some other channel, but you might start with checking the position of the Viewfinder Focus Screen.
+Lennard Wolff What you perceive as fungus is probably the results of degrading reflective coating on the surface of the prism. The easiest repair is to find a junk camera with a good prism and swap it out.
+Fix Old Cameras I have this exact camera. I found it used with a perfectly fine viewfinder. My "perceived fungus" came about rather quickly, within a few months, and it looks like a crystal fern/snowflake. Does this help narrow it down, troubleshooting wise? Thanks.
There is a only a remote chance that it is something on the bottom surface of the prism between the viewfinder screen and the prism. If it is visible when looking through the viewfinder it is most likely the separation of the reflective coating from the glass of the prism. It is not usually practical to replace the coating. Make sure the outer surface of the prism is clean. No residual adhesive or degraded foam as it will attack the coating and is the likely cause of what you are seeing.
Hi. I have a big problem, I get a camera ASAHI PENTAX K 1000 completely dirty and corroded. The lens is stuck in the camera. The screws do not want to spin. The logo left the painting. I Download a PDF of the diagram, but the images are very bad and I can not appreciate them. What can I do to repair it?
Start by seeping alcohol around the areas that are stuck with corrosion. Heat from the tip of a solder iron can also break free stuck screws. If you choose to use a soldering iron DO NOT let the soldering iron come in contact with any of the plastic of the camera. It will instantly melt into the plastic parts. A laquer paint stick can be used to fill the logo engraving - available here - astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B002BYWUMO
I think I did something wrong with the counter dial and it stopped counting, also my pentax k1000 counter dial doesn't have 2 holes after I took off numbers cover to put screw driver tool in it. help please?
+George Khvedelidze A small adjustable jaw pliers (channel lock pliers) can be used. Cover the jaws with a cloth if you are concerned about marring. However it will not show upon reassembly. The counter will only turn when the door is closed. If the door is closed and the engagement pawl is engaged, check to make sure that the advance lever cover plate is threaded all the way on and the washer and counter dial are seating properly
It was noted that the instructions given were incorrect addressing the disassembly issue. The information given probably does not apply in this case. A mistake that hopefully did not cause you too much consternation. You were probably referring to the advance lever cover that the counter dial cover set screws hold against. If that is the case, this style of advance lever cover is held in place by a small left hand thread spanner style nut that threads around the counter shaft.
hello, thank you so much for replying back. I've got another problem after that, iso meter stopped working now. it moves on circle but not applying to any mode except 100iso
That is an original National Camera version SP4. No longer available. Fix Old Cameras is working on making available custom made classic camera adjustable spanner set sooner than later. In the mean time depending on the application these might help. ua-cam.com/video/ULC8kUTnv5Y/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/z8OukD1pLyQ/v-deo.html Also some DIY classic camera repairs can use a calipers or snap ring pliers as a spanner wrench substitute.
Thanks for the suggestion. In the mean time, the ME is a sealed prism and requires the top cover and upper flex circuit to be removed in order to access the VF screen.
As a certified camera repair technician in the '80's & '90's, I can unequivocally state that anyone who attempts doing this or any other procedure without through training is asking for trouble. Do some research and send your camera to a qualified repair facility. You may pay what you feel is an exorbitant amount for the service (and perhaps you will) but you will save yourself much frustration. Servicing a camera is not as easy as these utube videos make it look.
Most of the FOC postings are step by step up close videos of simple, common repairs and basic maintenance on classic and vintage photographic equipment. Any one with modest mechanical skills, patience and desire should be able to have a modicum of success by following these videos. The FOC videos are far from perfect, but an effort is made to produce something of quality that will help keep vintage and classic cameras off the remember when shelf. Some of the videos show short cuts that at best are long term solutions but in some cases are only a short term fix until full and complete repair can be done. Why would somebody who is not a certified camera repair technician want to attempt to get their broken vintage camera working again DIY fashion? Perhaps the very same model of vintage camera could be purchased for less than $50 dollars and the repair estimate from the the certified repair technician is $90. Would it make a difference to this photographer with a broken classic camera as to what entity declared the certification to the technician? Contemplate the possibility... a photographer is told that his or her vintage camera is not worth fixing. He is not told this by an old school camera repairman or even another experienced photographer, but by a service specialist at the discount center big box store or the camera manufacture's service representative, if the manufacture is even still in business. This photographer would love to peek over the shoulder of a camera repair person and be educated about the inner workings of his classic camera, but regrettably, such good fortune is not usually possible. He also hates the feeling of helplessness, singularly, because he does not understand something that he wants to understand. So in the spirit of independence and the desire to be the master of her own stuff, she goes home and with her heart in her throat, she figures out how to get the top cover off of her broken camera. Then what? He may never be able to determine what the problem is or he may never even get the top cover back on. Then again, maybe he fiddles, tinkers and messes about until he discovers things about the inner workings of his camera. Bingo! A feeling of self satisfaction in saving her old trusted vintage camera takes hold. But wait, "time is money" what of that old adage? Has this plucky photographer just wasted valuable time fiddling with a camera that she was told was to complicated to fix or not worth repairing? Or has she discovered that to attempt to fix her classic camera is not merely a waste of time, but it is a different, gratifying use of her time and of her classic camera? It is an element of this discovery, regardless of economics or success, to maintain and use these elegantly engineered cameras of the 60's, 70’s, and 80’s, that is intrinsically rewarding in and of itself.
While I agree with you to an extent (it is always better to have a trained professional handle the job) As a teacher who is desperately trying to revive a high school photography program, with a school district not eager to dump any money into the cause- its videos like these that have been a life saver, and I've been able to fix over 6 student cameras that were ready to be scraped for parts. Some of us do not have the means to pay a professional upwards of 100-300 per camera (especially when the cameras have been subjected to student abuse for over 30 years!) so we are willing to take a gamble. Thank you Fix Old Cameras!
Thank you so very much for the great comment and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. It is so very good to hear that by using some of the FOC videos and investing your time beyond what your school district requires of you, classic cameras are being rescued from the dust bin and ending up in the hands of students who have shown an interest in the organic nature of film photography. A tip of the FOC fedora to you.
Great video. Found an old K1000 in my dad's closet - I don't think its really ever been used, however there is something that looks like mold in the viewfinder. It doesn't look like its on the plastic screen or mirror. I found the URL below on pentaxforums which is exactly the issue that I have, would I need to perform the steps in this video to clean it up? www.pentaxforums.com/forums/115-pentax-k-5/163971-k1000-mold-inside-viewfinder.html
Apply some heat with the tip of soldering iron for a couple of minutes. Be aware of the plastic parts. Of course contact with plastic and a hot soldering iron will not be pretty.
I dont know why these K1000's are in such high demand. For a film camera its not built all that well. 7 out of 10 will have fungus in the viewfinder, its very rare to find one with a working lightmeter. The advance lever often doesnt retract or jams. Overall the k1000 is not well built or rugged, feels very cheap for a mechanical camera, and performs poorly. Did a Kardashian shoot with it or something? Seems like the Contax effect is going on. mediocre cameras way overrated and priced. Better off with a Spotmatic if you want a Pentax Film camera. its way way better.
OK. Now on to the "bungload" of patience... first off that is a funny expression. Brings a smile and a chuckle. The repairs chosen for demonstration on FOC are most often simple, but rarely easy. They will become easy only when the skill set needed to complete the repairs become polished. That will only come with practice. Do not be hard on yourself if it does not go well. One of the beauties of many of these classic cameras are that beyond their intrinsic value they are not overly expensive. So if you totally bungle one you have not exploded your wallet. This repair might be simple to do but it is not easy to accomplish. Keep trying, it will come to you.
Fix Old Cameras I will surely take my time. It's the same model in the video and I've had it since 1993. I don't expect I'll get it done in a day. I ordered the spanner wrench and should arrive this afternoon. I also called a local camera shop who said they charge $43 to diagnose and it would take 2-4 weeks just to do that, so I decided just to give it a go. My dad doesn't understand why I want to buy film and shoot with an "old" camera. He thinks digital is the cat's meow. He's a "gadget guy". I enjoy the simplicity of "old" SLR cams. I don't want to have to program a camera or spend days figuring out how to use it. All of my best prints, the ones I have matted and framed and hanging in my home are from my K 1000. We just had our 4th child and I want to get some good black and whites. Wish me luck and thanks for the video!
Fix Old Cameras one more question. I have an adapter that fits into my K mount so that I can use screw mount lenses. But I can't find an adpter that does the reverse. I have a Pentax SP1000 and need an adapter that screws into that and would allow me to use k mount lenses with it. Do they have those? Thanks again!
Incredibly helpful video. From it I learned that this is way too complicated for me. Too many places to mess up. Think I've just live with my dusty viewfinder for now.
Same!
I think this is a perfectly acceptable realization. So many people jump into restorations of vintage gear when they just aren't really equipped or skilled enough. One day maybe it will increase in value to the point that repairs are well worth it
Great video! Learned my 1990 prism is desilvering. Found a donor Asahi K1000 with supposedly good prism on eBay for $30. Fingers crossed!
Excellent video. The later, Hong Kong-built K1000 has a different configuration under the rewind knob, but the procedure is self-evident. It also has top cover retaining screws one on either side of the prism, near the black trim piece. Finally, the release plunger on the HK camera is not a separate piece; it's held in place with an external snap ring and you do not have to touch it. ...... Two suggestions: First, remove the light meter battery before starting disassembly. The pointer in the viewfinder is "live" if the battery is installed, and you might bump it and damage it. Second, use a piece of masking tape to cover the latch end of the film door back. If you were to accidentally snap it closed while the rewind knob is removed, you will find it just about impossible to re-open the film door. Thanks!
Some good information on the differences of the later Pentax K1000. Thank you for the post and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. Also good advice on closing the film door with the rewind knob and particularly the rewind shaft removed. If someone finds themselves in such a dilemma this video might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/gQJQgdE4ISc/v-deo.html
Fix Old Cameras
Thank you so much for the great video !!
I'd requested for this video less than a week ago and its already up on the channel.
Your help is greatly appreciated :D
Fortunately for you it was already in the works. You just had good timing. It would be nice to post all request in a timely manner, but the list is long. Your patience and interest as always is greatly appreciated.
Please note the omitted mention of the clockwise rotation at the point of removal of the advance lever retainer and the possibility of a different configuration of the advance lever retainer and nut.
What size are those retaining screws. I can’t find anything small enough to get them out!
This is superb - thanks for recording this. I'd also be very interested in learning about troubleshooting light meter issues, as I have an SPII that's over exposing by a couple of stops. I'd get it CLA'd, but I've already got six bodies that have been recently serviced!
Six bodies... excellent to hear. Thank you for your suggestion and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. At some point in time it would be nice to have a series of videos on issues in galvanometer based meter systems featured in many classic and vintage cameras.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I think it could be a model for how to do repair videos -- clear, thorough, and perfectly paced. I've just removed the prism from a K1000 and discovered the same problem Andrew Florian and dreekd80 described. It sounds like a common failure point.
It might be useful to note that the advance lever cover nut (in addition to the counter retainer screw -- thank you for that warning) is reverse-threaded. (I saw that you rotated the spanner clockwise and had no problem.)
+mjflory Thank you for your interest and comments.
The k1000 SE is a different model, mine had a sort of black mold inside the prism ! Do o couldn’t fix it but still the video has been incredible helpful ! Thank you so much
Excellent video! Thanks! If I was to do this to my Asahi Pentax SP would the procedure be the same? I assume the internals are comparable? I have a very dirty viewfinder and the foam needs replacing. Love these vids. Thanks again
Yeah, I have a nearly perfect Honeywell Pentax SP1000 except for a small dent where the camera apparently landed on its hot shoe (the original shoe must have broken as mine had a Mamiya/Sekor shoe when I got it). I am looking to replace my top with a NOS Asahi Pentax top, so this is very helpful. I am going to make a practice run on a trashed SP500 I have to see if I can disassemble and reassemble without any issue, then take on the SP 1000.
By the way, I think what you have is a very early Spotmatic as the screw is in the side. My first SLR was an Asahi Spotmatic like that one and it also had the screws in the side and it was from around 1967. That one, unfortunately, got away from me at some point.
Great comments. Keep'em going!
Nice video! my viewfinder or prism seems to be moldy, this video is the one I needed
Good to hear it might help.
One criticism: You didn't mention that the Advance Lever Cover Nut has reverse threads. But, it is detectable from the video. Other than that, the video is excellent. I was able to use it to get into the prism of my Pentax. Thank you very much.
+Brice Alden
Added an annotation of clockwise removal at the point of removal of the advance lever nut. Thank you for you interest in Fix Old Cameras
Success, I was able to change out a bad prism thanks to this video. Thanks.
+Jay Radcliff Outstanding.
i used some pointed tweesers as a spanner wrench
worked fine
Good to hear of your successful adaptation. Just be aware that undo torque can sometimes bend the tips of tweezers when using them as a spanner wrench. Other times, as in your application, they are the perfect tool for the job.
Thanks! I tried tweezers and they did great!
Can you guys make a video on how to fix the light meter?
yeah, i just got an early k1000 with the light meter stuck in the middle. battery compartment was all corroded, but so was the other k1000 that came in the case and that one worked. sigh. tried the wiggling things back and forth tricks listed online, still nothing...
@@punkrachmaninoff I realize this is a couple of months old, but with the light meter you need to point it at something fairly bright in order for it to activate. If not it just stays off andin the middle. Not sure if that's the problem or something else. Just trying to help you or anyone else reading with a similar problem.
Thank you for posting this. I have recently discovered mold when I look through the viewfinder of my K1000. I believe the viewfinder screen is clean and that the mold may be growing on the prism or within the cover viewfinder window. Do you have any recommendations on how to remove it and perhaps prevent it's growth in the future?
If the bottom surface to the prism is clean than, it is possibly the reflective material coating the prism is separating from the glass. Might be best to swap out the prism.
Cool video. I have a later (non Ashai, circa 1992) K1000 that was given to me which I relegated to bring a parts camera because of mold on the prism. I am guessing the disassembly is similar, although comparing it to my 1980 K1000 SE, it looks like Pentax made some changes to the design as a cost cutting measure.
+Kevin MacNutt Yes they made some changes, particularly with the rewind knob and shaft.
I've been waiting for this video a while and now I have no excuse to clean my Pentax K1000 and reuse like in the good old days.
Thank you very much for this video.
Very good to hear. And thank you for your patience.
At 3:55 it looks like it is possible to remove the viewfinder screen, if that right, also I'm wondering if by removing the focus screen adjustment screws from underneath the screen can be removed, someone said that it's possible to remove from below? (the question refers to a spotmatic F, which I believe is pretty similar to a K1000)
The viewfinder screen/lens assembly can be removed. Be careful of the galvanometer needle that it is not damaged as you lift the screen assembly free.
@@FixOldCameras but do you think it's possible to remove it from below by removing the adjustment screws?
3:47 Once that nasty red foam is removed (The source of trouble in most cases where debris are detaching), do you need to replace this with any material s.a. tiny sponge or a custom cut filter material to replace the dustproofing system or no replacement is OK?
No need to replace. Nothing bad will happen if you leave it out. But if you leave it in something bad will happen. Is it for sound dampening? Maybe. Is it a dust seal? Most likely. Is it simply for appearances? Possible. Is known why or when the first manufacture installed the destined to degrade foam on and around the prism? And why all followed suit? Don't think so.
@@FixOldCameras Thanks a lot for the explanation. Makes sense. What really makes me to wonder is Pentax's top quality film SLR body, K1000 (Ask any college photography class instructor) has chosen all the immortal quality stuff for this body except this funny spong that not only falls apart, invariably, it is right in front of your eyes to scar your view every time you look through the viewfinder, even though this is without any false result on IQ.
Again thx for you good reply.
Ok. I know this is an old video, but I’m at 1:49 into this top plate removal and I can’t get the spanner to budge the counter housing cover! Any ideas to get this thing unstuck!
First of all, thank you for the outstanding quality tutorial! I believe that I have one of the older Japanese 1976-1978 models. The advance lever cover nut has no spanner wrench holes. The advance lever cover nut has two female square shaped notches near the center of the spindle and appears to be a part of the cover nut. Try to remove the cover nut by turning it left-handed thread on the outside diameter? Thank you!
+Joshua Schaeffer I got it. The silver center nut I was referring to did have to be removed. It is a separate nut and not integral to the advance lever cover, and left hand thread. Thanks!
Yes. Thank you for noting one of the variations.
The only tool I used besides the obvious screwdrivers was a modified set of needle-nose pliers which I ground the jaws down to sharp points on a bench grinder.
Thank you for the comments. Should be helpful.
Excellent work; could you do the Spotmatic ES light meter now, please ?
Hi, yesterday I managed to purchase a real nice K1000. The issue is, as the previous owner explained: he had taken the top plate off for a prism clean, but forgot the shutter speed and film speed settings he had set both at! I've sorted out the shutter speed, just found bulb and set the dial. However, how do I find the true ASA setting? The only thing I can think of is to run film through it, let's say 400 at 400 setting, take the film for developing, compare the developed exposure to see if it looks true to the setting and keep changing the film ASA until I fall upon the correct dial value then change dial to correct value. I hope that makes sense. Can't think of any other way to accomplish finding the true ASA value other than trail and error by shooting film and checking out the developed results.
Awesome video man, I learned a lot from this. Could you do a video showing how to troubleshoot light meter issues with the K1000? I can read repair manuals, but I can't quite visualize some things.
Thank your interest in Fix Old Cameras and your suggestion for a video.
I heard elsewhere that the Canon T50/70's prism is usable to replace those with damaged silver coating from late K1000 versions. From your experience, is this information correct? I have a T70 prism here and an "Assembled in China" K1000 with a seriously damaged prism and I am considering to do an attempt. Should I consider to patch some 2mm thick foam on it?
Thanks for this and other videos. I have 3 KXs, two of which I might try to sell, that the little prism window showing the lens aperture ( "Judas window"?) is a bit, or completely, misaligned. I hope removing the top is the same as this k1000 and perhaps my problem will be evident upon removal. Also, when replacing the ASA dial, could replacing it differently on purpose be done as a way of adjusting the meter if you think it is off? Probably, when I get around to doing it, it will be obvious if that would work or not.
First off... how did a one way peep hole for viewing the aperture numbers come to be called a Judas window? Moving on... the Pentax KX (not to be confused with the K-x) has a very similar advance lever and counter configuration to the Pentax K-1000. However the shutter dial of the KX lacks the incorporation of the ASA function as in the K-1000. The ASA function of the KX as been moved under the rewind knob, but it is a straightforward assembly that should give you little trouble. ASA position can be used to compensate for an inaccurate meter. But it is preferably to find and repair the actual cause of the meter issue.
I had come across others using the term, never having seen it before, and looked it up. www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/336577-asahi-pentax-kx-aperture-reader-window.html ------------- www.mail-archive.com/pdml@pdml.net/msg62175.html ------- en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Judas_window ------- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Judas_Window ------ www.waywordradio.org/judas_window/ etc The term doesn't seem appropriate as when I observe the f stop I am not doing so surreptitiously. Maybe the camera feels differently.
Researching the origin of the term should prove to be interesting. Thank you for the insight.
Well sir, I took my K 1000 apart with little trouble. Your instruction was perfect. Unfortunately, the dirt or foam scum or whayever it is (it may even be mold - this cam was in the basement for a few years, albeit in a cam case), is not ON the prism, it's actually INSIDE the prism. I can't imagine ho that coul have happened, unless it is indeed some kind of mold. Unless the prism itself can be disassembled and reassembled, it's over. Time to hit up eBay I guess. Thanks again for your tutelage. It was invaluable!
***** Yes, what happen was the degrading foam actually ate into the silver reflective coating of the prism. Good to hear your repair attempt went well.
+Fix Old Cameras if foam does indeed end up inside the prism, is there any way to remove it or is it over?
If the degraded foam is in on the glass surface of the prism then clean it with alcohol. If the degraded foam is on the plastic fresnel viewfinder lens clean it with distilled water only following the concentric circles of the viewfinder screen. Often the oil from the foam leaves a mark on the screen even after cleaning.
can i ask if you know which pentaprism from other cameras can be replaced with spotmatic sp1?
Where do you get that particular
spanner wrench? Thank you
Thank you for this video ,i repair my old camera from ebay .GOD bless you !
Glad it helped
Thanks for this video. I was able to clean the prism on my K1000. The detent spring in the rewind shaft housing is a pain in the ass.
Question: the foam around the prism on my camera is a gooey mess. Should I clean it completely off the prism edges before re-installation, and if so, does the old foam need to be replaced with new foam?
LOL... yes the spring can be troublesome. The old foam should be completely removed as the deteriorating mess can damage the reflective coating of the prism. It does not need to be replaced as its absence will not negatively affect the cameras operation. If you would like to replace it use wool felt of a similar thickness and you need not ever be concerned of its future condition.
First I would like to THANK YOU for all your awesome videos. It has helped me so much fixing cameras. One issue that i can never find any video or any explanation online is on how to fix a Pentax k1000 light meter. My Pentax k1000 has the meter stuck in the middle. It doesn't move up or down with brand new battery. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you again. You guys rock!!!!
Tcho Carvalho First make sure that there is battery voltage present at the circuit. Follow the battery wire up to the circuit and check with a multimeter. Check for broken wires that run across the prism. The insulation can look good even though the integrity of the wire is compromised. See if the galvanometer will react to direct voltage. You can use a 1.5 button battery for this. Just a momentary touch of the wire to the battery terminals. It will peg the needle if the galvanometer is still good. If the "galvo" checks out then it leaves the CDS (light dependent resistor) cell or a circuit issue. The CDS cell can be checked with an ohm meter. A change in the intensity of light striking the cell should cause the resistance to change accordingly. If the "cell" and the "galvo" check then you are left with a detective circuit or circuitry.
I have Pentax 67 and I cant unscrew advance lever cover nut at 1:47 on advance cocking lever... What should I do?
Seep alcohol around the cover nut. Apply heat from a soldering iron for a couple of minutes.
Thanks! I will try it tomorrow! :)
hey your videos are helpful
my pentax k1000's iso meter is not working. how can I fix it ?
hey there, great video!
one question, what happens if you accidentally turned (and broke off) the counter dial left-handed screw? how will the rest of the screw be taken out? much appreciated
You will probably be able to back out what remains with the point of probe that you can engage in an edge of the broken shard where it sheared.
I have just got one this past weekend and have been searching for help on the disassembly. Your video showed up just in time! Thank you! Great channel by the way, subbed! Quick question. Through my cameras viewfinder, there is black fungus growing on it, which I'm guessing is the old foam underneath spreading around the prism. Is it safe to clean it off the prism with isopropyl alcohol?
I just took it apart and it looks like it's inside the prism, sort of 3d looking. Is that repairable or better off getting a replacement?
The prism can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol with no detrimental effects. If the silver coating is separating from the glass of the prism it could possibly be the cause of what you have encountered. If that is the case it really is not practical to try and salvage the prism.
hey!!! is there any way I can remove the focusing screen on the the K1000? I want to replace it with another one I have from another K1000 that has the body in a worse condition and without a working light meter
Hi. Thanks for the videos,very helpfull. I have a pentax K1000 and the ligt meter stays all the tine in the centre. I have changed the battery but nothing happened. What do you sugest i should do? Thanks
Make sure there is not a slight layer of corrosion on the contact and battery lid. Sometimes the corrosion will actually occur underneath the plating on the battery cap and the plating will need to scraped down to the brass. If this is the case you will notice a slight bubbling of the plating. Otherwise you probably have a failed or stuck galvanometer.
Fix Old Cameras Hello again. Thanks for your answer. I have removed the top cover and prism, and galvanometer is not stuck. Since there i didn't find any problem, i have removed the bottom cover and the battery dock. There i find the wire is cut out because of corrosion. Now i have another problem, i can't stick back the wire, The old tin was to hard and i could not melt, and the new tin don't want to stick on the plate.Any ideas
The plated battery disc contact is very difficult to solder after it has corroded. Conductive Epoxy adhesive or Solder Paste could be used but it is fairly expensive for such a job. Make a replacement contact from a disc of brass or copper. You could also use a battery contact from a discarded device. Glue into place with a dab of 100 % silicone adhesive.
Can you swap a split image focusing screen into a Spotmatic?
I have a Spotmatic SP, and the release button and the release plunger (2:45) popped out after I tried to use a shutter release cable. (imgur.com/a/YOp7H) When I put both of them back in, it works like normal, but if the camera gets turned upside down, both pieces fall out again. Do you have any suggestions for what I can do to fix it?
The release button unit is attached to the metal of the top cover by a swagging process. Once the button unit has been pulled free of the top cover there is rarely enough metal to re-swag the unit in place. If you ever want to be able to use a cable release you will probably need to replace the top cover with a secure release button unit. If you have no interest in using a cable release, then a small amount of epoxy glue will hold the release button unit in place well enough to allow for careful use. It is strongly suggested that you remove the top cover before attempting to glue the button in place. Manage the amount of glue carefully as you do not want it to restrict the movement of the button and plunger within the unit.
Are release button units something I can buy online? I'd rather not use glue if possible.
Alternately, I found this ebay listing for a replacement top cover - www.ebay.com/itm/185517-PENTAX-SPOTMATIC-SP-TOP-COVER-REPAIR-PART-/381559089112
Glue is never the first choice. If the top cover you are considering using to repair your camera is the same as broken top cover by all means swap them out. You might ask the seller in advance as to the condition of the release button where it attaches to the top cover.
An excellent informative video. Thanks!
Thank you for your interest in FOC,
thank you! this is excellent and helped me trade a bad pentaprism for a good! Best!!!!
Hi, Im planning on applying loctite on the hot shoe screws because they are loose. Will this interfere with future attempts to dissasemble the top cover?
Use the blue and future disassembly should not be a problem.
Thanks! great help. is this similar with the Pentax me super?
The Pentax ME Super top cover removal is a bit different, but all of the techniques used can be applied to other cameras.
I need replacing the focusing screen,so should I starting it removing the prism first?
The Pentax ME Super focusing screen can be replaced by accessing through the mirror box. The top cover does not need to be removed.
please , could you send ,more photos about how are the steps to release the
focusing screen? Thanks!
Many apologies. The step described does not apply. The Pentax ME Super you describe will need to have the top cover and prism removed as it has a fixed VF screen.
i have the correct spanner necessary to remove the Advance lever cover nut and i am most definitely rotating in the correct direction, however, no matter how much force and strength i put behind it, i cannot unscrew it. The entire inner workings of my Pentax K1000 (mine does not have the "asahi" insignia) is working perfectly well besides a rather prominent "dusty" "black spot" taking up roughly one sixth of my total viewfinder (in the center bottom). I was hoping you may be able to provide me with some advice are an alternative method.
Even though it sounds wrong... try going in the opposite direction, it might break free. Also try applying heat from the tip of a soldering iron. Watch out that the hot tip does not come in contact with plastic parts.
If i have a k1000 that seems to have a working exposure meter, but in low light the needle moves to the center and do not seem to respond to shutter speed and aperture changes. Does it need to be repaired or is it normal? I think it should be doing that in darker scenarios due to the photo cell on/off switch.
Make sure the battery output is very close to 1.5 volts. The meter should move to the bottom when in a low light situation with slow shutter speed settings with a wide open aperture bringing the needle back to the center position as conditions warrant. When the meter is switch is off the needle may not always rest at the bottom of the bracket, but in some cameras will come to rest at the lower half of the bracket.
I find sometimes its as simple as cleaning out the battery compartment with a little rubbing alcohol.... always does the trick for me...
I know you asked his a long time ago, but the meter only works in a certain scope of EV values (I have heard it's EV 3-16), so in really dark or super light it will return to the middle and not function. Totally normal behavior.
I have a Pentax (Heiland) H2 which I can't get the top cover off because I can't remove the film advance lever assembly. I removed the top screw, the trim washer, the round nut, and the film counter ring. I thought now all I would have to do is turn the lever about 90 deg. and lift the lever assembly off but it's not coming off. Any idea what I'm doing wrong. Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Not really sure from your description. There should be a bayonet spring type retaining washer held in place by three screws like the K1000.
Thank you for this video. I tried to clean prism, but I couldn't do. because the dirty thing was in the prism(?), not on surface
Probably has damage to the reflective coating. Swap out with a donor camera.
Great, straightforward video.
Could you make a video on how to remove the prism and clean the focusing screen on a Pentax ME Super? I watched you videos about replacing light seals and gave it a try it turned out pretty good. Thanks again for posting the videos.
Thank you for the fine suggestion and for your interest in FOC videos.
Please help! How much more difficult is this to do on a Canon A1? It seems mine has a hazed light meter condenser lens so i would probably have to clean/replace that. A video on this subject would be very much appreciated as it seems to be a common problem. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
There is a flex circuit that is position over the top of the prism that will need to be removed to access the prism. If you want to see what it looks like you can check out the Fix Old Camera videos featuring the A-1.
I just bought a Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic at a yard sale, and I can’t get the shutter to open. I’m trying to open the bottom panel, but I can’t find a screwdriver small enough for the little screws on the bottom. Are those the only way to open it?
Use a 2.5mm JIS crosspoint screwdriver.
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Fix Old Cameras Thanks for the recommendation!
What can you do if you forget the arbitrary shutter speed and ASA settings when you took off the setting dial? Is there a solution to reset them somehow?
can you take the top off with a loaded film roll in the camera or will it expose it ??
As theconstruc67 says you could probably remove the top cover with the film in the camera and not fog it. But it is advisable to remove the film before begining a repair. Make a note of the the film counter and then rewind it taking care to stop rewinding at the moment you feel the film leader release from the spool. Reload the film to the same spot on the leader and then advance and release the camera with the lens cap on until you arrive back to the film counter position it was on.
Any chance you could do this for the Minolta SRT101? My viewfinder is awfully dirty
Keep'em going... ua-cam.com/video/Y_WOwee8Qhw/v-deo.html
I got mine just today from a seller on Ebay but it was already used thats why it was $50. But once it arrived it had a piece of noticeable dust inside the viewfinder, and i’m wondering how much it would cost to get it fixed professionally. If I take it to a camera store where they fix cameras would it be expensive? or not at all?
Check with local camera shops to see what they might charge if they are even willing to look at a vintage camera. Otherwise you can try a bulb blower to dust lodge the dust. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras If it is degraded mirror cushion foam do not wipe it out as it will smudge and scar the soft plastic of the VF screen. Do not use lens cleaning solution on the VF screen. If you must use only distilled water. If you can not find local help.
You may go to phototronic.biz/
I see you still answer questions, so I thought I'd try. The curtain tension adjustment gear panel on the bottom is sticking out some 1 mm after the screws were loosened, so that I can't fit the bottom cover on properly. Can you advice how to get the shafts to slide into the slots again? I think I need to open the top cover, and there seems to be some sort of a chip there, that might need to be removed too(?)
If the curtains rollers are no longer seated as they should be, the top cover, front plate and mirror box will probably have to be removed for you to be able to reset the shutter rollers.
Thanks for the reply. I figured as much. I'm surprised how few of these k1000 disassembly videos there are online. Or photos for that matter. I actually almost got them in by just loosening the gears from below and wiggling them around, but then something went off, and the other won't go in, so now I've got all apart except for the front piece, because I don't like the idea of tearing off the leatherette... but I guess I'll have to do that tomorrow, otherwise I'll just have a lure box full of gears and washers.
If the leatherette does not come off easily, seep a little Isopropyl alcohol under the leatherette as you peel it back.
for the counter dial do we need to remember the position of the dial like how you do with shutter speed/ASA dials?
+Pavie Pabphavong
When working properly the counter dial resets to zero when the film door is opened.
+Fix Old Cameras thank you!! Got my camera finder clean FIY mine is K1000SE the advance lever cover inside the counter dial is a little different.
Yes it is. Excellent to hear of your success!
I have just bought one of these cameras and I've noticed that one of the strap ring eyelets attached to the camera is loose. Is this repairable by a professional, how much of a
big job would it be? Thanks
Remove the top cover and you will be able to access the strap lug screw.
Will it work on my k2? There is fungus inside the viewfinder.. if not would you be able to do a video on the k2?? Thanks
If it looks like fungus it is probably a separation of the reflective coating of the prism. Typically the solution is to replace the damaged prism. See the Fix Old Cameras video Olympus OM-1 Prism Foam Cleaning. The foam cushion continues to degrade and damages the reflective coating of the prism of these cameras if the foam is not removed.
Any tips on how to fix the counter itself? It won't reset or work at all?
It would be the counter engagement pawl and/ or the counter return spring.
@@FixOldCameras Thanks any links/tutorials you know of to help me through it? Thank you so much! Its not a huge deal because the camera still works
Hi, I have been trying to open the top cover on my Spotmatic but the part under the rewind crank would not move at all. It is the part that requires a spanner wrench which I used but did not work. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Apply heat from the tip of a soldering iron and try again. Be aware of plastic parts so as not to come in contact with the hot iron. Alcohol seeped around the retainer might also help.
Hi! I was wondering if I have a crack on top surface of my view finder screen would it affect my pictures? and if it does what is the size of the view finder screen I would need to get?
It will not, but if you want to replace it a donor camera will probably be your best source.
How it is called instrument for screws with two pits?
is there something like this video for the Pentax ESII?
Not yet, but thank you for the suggestion.
Can i change a bad viewfinder for another viewfinder of a different camera?
Any version of the K-1000 or KM can work as a donor.
How do I replace the focusing screen?
+Jacob Phillipps Remove the top cover, the prism and the viewfinder lens to access the viewfinder screen.
Is there much different for a spotmatic?
It is similar.
Hey so I forgot which ASA it was on while I removed the dial (took a picture of it but it apparently never saved, thanks ICloud). How can i find which ASA the plate corresponds to? (For the shutterspeed I can just put on “b”)
Thanks a lot
It will go one the wrong way 180 degrees out of sync and you meter will be goofy. Flip it and you will be fine. Set your shutter speed to 125, set your aperture to 1/16 on a sunny day move the ASA control until the meter needle centers and you should be in the range of ASA 125. At this point you will know which way the ASA dial is seated.
what size screw drivers do you need for this fix?
+TheBrothersCompound
JIS 2.0mm screwdriver
+Fix Old Cameras
forgot the .025 or .040 slotted for the counter dial cover
Already found! Thank you for your page!
I got a used K1000 for free from a lady a few days ago and the lens wont seem to focus no matter what setting I turn to or where I point it. Is that a lens problem or would the prism have anything to do with that?
It could be an issue with the focus screen or it could be an issue with the lens or both. If you can try the lens on another camera or a different known good lens on your camera you will be able to isolate the problem.
Excellent info, many thanks!
You are welcome.
I was confident on cleaning my viewfinder, but now it just too much for me to not fail
thank you man!! that was great!!
Is this the same with the Pentax Spotmatic?
It is similar.
I dropped my NIKON D500. Looks like the bottom of the lens took the impact, there is no visible damage (not even a scratch in the paint) on the body. BUT, now the view through the viewfinder is totally blurry. Camera focuses fine and shots are in focus when using live-view or viewing the photo on the LCD panel. Everything else seems to work as usual, I just can't see any of the details inside the viewfinder or view the frame in focus before taking the shot.
I tried adjusting the diopter but it seems like it doesn't do anything, no change to blurrines/focus through the viewfinder when I adjust the slider.
Any ideas what may be wrong? I will most likely take it to service but thought I'd ask here as well in case anyone has had a similar issue/fix.
Thank you for taking the time to post a comment, however Fix Old Cameras is a channel featuring classic and vintage film cameras. Hopefully you will be able to find a solution on some other channel, but you might start with checking the position of the Viewfinder Focus Screen.
my prism has "de-silvered" are they available new or will i need a donor camera please?
Might be some "new" old inventory out there, but as in most cases with repair of classic cameras often the best source is a donor camera.
Can you make the same video of Top Cover and Prism Removal of the Pentax MX please!! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for your suggestion. The list is long. But at some point in time the MX top cover removal could be featured in a FOC video.
Fix Old Cameras I will be looking forward that video
ขอบคุณครับ ดีมากๆเลยครับ
verygood thankyou
You are welcome and thank you for your interest in FOC.
Can an ASAHI PENTAX K1000 PRISM BE USED TO REPLACE A K1000 PRISM FROM CHINA?
excellent video !
I have a Fungus in the Center of the prism what should I do ?
+Lennard Wolff
What you perceive as fungus is probably the results of degrading reflective coating on the surface of the prism. The easiest repair is to find a junk camera with a good prism and swap it out.
thanks I thought of the same thing already and bought one from eBay thanks anyway
thanks I thought of the same thing already and bought one from eBay thanks anyway
+Fix Old Cameras I have this exact camera. I found it used with a perfectly fine viewfinder. My "perceived fungus" came about rather quickly, within a few months, and it looks like a crystal fern/snowflake. Does this help narrow it down, troubleshooting wise? Thanks.
There is a only a remote chance that it is something on the bottom surface of the prism between the viewfinder screen and the prism.
If it is visible when looking through the viewfinder it is most likely the separation of the reflective coating from the glass of the prism. It is not usually practical to replace the coating. Make sure the outer surface of the prism is clean. No residual adhesive or degraded foam as it will attack the coating and is the likely cause of what you are seeing.
Hi. I have a big problem, I get a camera ASAHI PENTAX K 1000 completely dirty and corroded.
The lens is stuck in the camera.
The screws do not want to spin.
The logo left the painting.
I Download a PDF of the diagram, but the images are very bad and I can not appreciate them.
What can I do to repair it?
Start by seeping alcohol around the areas that are stuck with corrosion. Heat from the tip of a solder iron can also break free stuck screws. If you choose to use a soldering iron DO NOT let the soldering iron come in contact with any of the plastic of the camera. It will instantly melt into the plastic parts. A laquer paint stick can be used to fill the logo engraving - available here - astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B002BYWUMO
I think I did something wrong with the counter dial and it stopped counting, also my pentax k1000 counter dial doesn't have 2 holes after I took off numbers cover to put screw driver tool in it. help please?
+George Khvedelidze A small adjustable jaw pliers (channel lock pliers) can be used. Cover the jaws with a cloth if you are concerned about marring. However it will not show upon reassembly. The counter will only turn when the door is closed. If the door is closed and the engagement pawl is engaged, check to make sure that the advance lever cover plate is threaded all the way on and the washer and counter dial are seating properly
It was noted that the instructions given were incorrect addressing the disassembly issue. The information given probably does not apply in this case. A mistake that hopefully did not cause you too much consternation. You were probably referring to the advance lever cover that the counter dial cover set screws hold against. If that is the case, this style of advance lever cover is held in place by a small left hand thread spanner style nut that threads around the counter shaft.
The center silver nut you reference needs to be removed.
hello, thank you so much for replying back. I've got another problem after that, iso meter stopped working now. it moves on circle but not applying to any mode except 100iso
+Fix Old Cameras .
Does anyone know what kind of spammer wrench he used?
That is an original National Camera version SP4. No longer available. Fix Old Cameras is working on making available custom made classic camera adjustable spanner set sooner than later. In the mean time depending on the application these might help.
ua-cam.com/video/ULC8kUTnv5Y/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/z8OukD1pLyQ/v-deo.html
Also some DIY classic camera repairs can use a calipers or snap ring pliers as a spanner wrench substitute.
Wow. Not trivial. Very nice. Thanks.
Thank you for your support and interest in FOC.
Thanks! I didn't destroy the camera!
I need a video on cleaning an ME Super viewfinder internally.Screen is loaded with dust and is very nasty looking
Thanks for the suggestion. In the mean time, the ME is a sealed prism and requires the top cover and upper flex circuit to be removed in order to access the VF screen.
As a certified camera repair technician in the '80's & '90's, I can unequivocally state that anyone who attempts doing this or any other procedure without through training is asking for trouble. Do some research and send your camera to a qualified repair facility. You may pay what you feel is an exorbitant amount for the service (and perhaps you will) but you will save yourself much frustration. Servicing a camera is not as easy as these utube videos make it look.
Most of the FOC postings are step by step up close videos of simple, common repairs and basic maintenance on classic and vintage photographic equipment. Any one with modest mechanical skills, patience and desire should be able to have a modicum of success by following these videos. The FOC videos are far from perfect, but an effort is made to produce something of quality that will help keep vintage and classic cameras off the remember when shelf. Some of the videos show short cuts that at best are long term solutions but in some cases are only a short term fix until full and complete repair can be done.
Why would somebody who is not a certified camera repair technician want to attempt to get their broken vintage camera working again DIY fashion? Perhaps the very same model of vintage camera could be purchased for less than $50 dollars and the repair estimate from the the certified repair technician is $90. Would it make a difference to this photographer with a broken classic camera as to what entity declared the certification to the technician?
Contemplate the possibility... a photographer is told that his or her vintage camera is not worth fixing. He is not told this by an old school camera repairman or even another experienced photographer, but by a service specialist at the discount center big box store or the camera manufacture's service representative, if the manufacture is even still in business.
This photographer would love to peek over the shoulder of a camera repair person and be educated about the inner workings of his classic camera, but regrettably, such good fortune is not usually possible. He also hates the feeling of helplessness, singularly, because he does not understand something that he wants to understand. So in the spirit of independence and the desire to be the master of her own stuff, she goes home and with her heart in her throat, she figures out how to get the top cover off of her broken camera. Then what? He may never be able to determine what the problem is or he may never even get the top cover back on. Then again, maybe he fiddles, tinkers and messes about until he discovers things about the inner workings of his camera.
Bingo! A feeling of self satisfaction in saving her old trusted vintage camera takes hold. But wait, "time is money" what of that old adage? Has this plucky photographer just wasted valuable time fiddling with a camera that she was told was to complicated to fix or not worth repairing? Or has she discovered that to attempt to fix her classic camera is not merely a waste of time, but it is a different, gratifying use of her time and of her classic camera? It is an element of this discovery, regardless of economics or success, to maintain and use these elegantly engineered cameras of the 60's, 70’s, and 80’s, that is intrinsically rewarding in and of itself.
While I agree with you to an extent (it is always better to have a trained professional handle the job) As a teacher who is desperately trying to revive a high school photography program, with a school district not eager to dump any money into the cause- its videos like these that have been a life saver, and I've been able to fix over 6 student cameras that were ready to be scraped for parts. Some of us do not have the means to pay a professional upwards of 100-300 per camera (especially when the cameras have been subjected to student abuse for over 30 years!) so we are willing to take a gamble. Thank you Fix Old Cameras!
Thank you so very much for the great comment and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. It is so very good to hear that by using some of the FOC videos and investing your time beyond what your school district requires of you, classic cameras are being rescued from the dust bin and ending up in the hands of students who have shown an interest in the organic nature of film photography. A tip of the FOC fedora to you.
In a few years, these videos will be our saving grace because all the professional old timers will have retired.
And it's quite rewarding to fix something by yourself. :-)
can be repaired film rewind button does not allow the movie progresses
+RAMONN ARIASS The Fix Old Camera videos Pentax K-1000 Jammed Film Transport and Pentax K-1000 Jammed Film Transport Addendum might help you.
Can't wait to paint my K1000 black :)
+Pip Whitelock Should be fun.
What paint did you use? My K1000's paint has is so worn I'd rather just repaint it
Thank you
OMG i twisted the head off the Counter Dial Retaining Screw!!!! Anyone did the same?!?!?! what can i do now?
YES!
Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Great video. Found an old K1000 in my dad's closet - I don't think its really ever been used, however there is something that looks like mold in the viewfinder. It doesn't look like its on the plastic screen or mirror. I found the URL below on pentaxforums which is exactly the issue that I have, would I need to perform the steps in this video to clean it up?
www.pentaxforums.com/forums/115-pentax-k-5/163971-k1000-mold-inside-viewfinder.html
Typically such marks in the prism are the separation of the reflective backing from the surface of the prism
My shutter speed dial will not come off no matter what i do
Apply some heat with the tip of soldering iron for a couple of minutes. Be aware of the plastic parts. Of course contact with plastic and a hot soldering iron will not be pretty.
I dont know why these K1000's are in such high demand. For a film camera its not built all that well. 7 out of 10 will have fungus in the viewfinder, its very rare to find one with a working lightmeter. The advance lever often doesnt retract or jams. Overall the k1000 is not well built or rugged, feels very cheap for a mechanical camera, and performs poorly. Did a Kardashian shoot with it or something? Seems like the Contax effect is going on. mediocre cameras way overrated and priced. Better off with a Spotmatic if you want a Pentax Film camera. its way way better.
oy. i need a pointed spanner wrench. and a bungload of more patience than i currently boast.
You might be able to find one that suits your needs and budget here -astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20
OK. Now on to the "bungload" of patience... first off that is a funny expression. Brings a smile and a chuckle. The repairs chosen for demonstration on FOC are most often simple, but rarely easy. They will become easy only when the skill set needed to complete the repairs become polished. That will only come with practice. Do not be hard on yourself if it does not go well. One of the beauties of many of these classic cameras are that beyond their intrinsic value they are not overly expensive. So if you totally bungle one you have not exploded your wallet. This repair might be simple to do but it is not easy to accomplish. Keep trying, it will come to you.
Fix Old Cameras I will surely take my time. It's the same model in the video and I've had it since 1993. I don't expect I'll get it done in a day. I ordered the spanner wrench and should arrive this afternoon. I also called a local camera shop who said they charge $43 to diagnose and it would take 2-4 weeks just to do that, so I decided just to give it a go. My dad doesn't understand why I want to buy film and shoot with an "old" camera. He thinks digital is the cat's meow. He's a "gadget guy". I enjoy the simplicity of "old" SLR cams. I don't want to have to program a camera or spend days figuring out how to use it. All of my best prints, the ones I have matted and framed and hanging in my home are from my K 1000. We just had our 4th child and I want to get some good black and whites. Wish me luck and thanks for the video!
Fix Old Cameras one more question. I have an adapter that fits into my K mount so that I can use screw mount lenses. But I can't find an adpter that does the reverse. I have a Pentax SP1000 and need an adapter that screws into that and would allow me to use k mount lenses with it. Do they have those? Thanks again!
***** You should be able to find one on page four here astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20 Otherwise search for M42 lens thread to K mount adaptor.