106.5 feet of film and leader was in mine. I measured it. Then, it took 133 cranks to wind the film from one side to the other. That took 1 min and 20 sec to make the 133 cranks. I did slow down a little near the end when the supply side was spinning really fast. I just wound it with a normal crank speed that felt good. Not too fast and not slow either. The tension makes you wind at a certain speed to have something to pull on. 4 passes took 5 min and 20 seconds. D-94 only takes 2 min to develop the first time on a LOMO spiral, and D-95 only takes 30 seconds to develop the second time, but I don't know how many passes that would be on my Morse tank..
I know you have answered this already vaguely. But I am developing Tri-X 7266, should I take your times and deduct 2 rounds from the total of only developer or all chemicals? How strict should I be with the temperature and timing? Also how many times can I reuse bleach? I am using Rollei B&w reversal kit to try this. Should be fine right?
Deduct 2 rounds just from the first developer and keep the rest as is. The best thing about B&W is there is a bit of latitude and room for a bit of error. I just keep a steady rhythm in my head when turning and it takes approximately one minute winding from one reel to the other. Nothing what I do here is extremely precise and I get good results. If you want to be pedantic, the first developer is the most important because screwing this part up ruins everything else down the line. You can't over bleach unless you fall asleep, and clearing just gets rid of the stain left behind by the bleach so you really can't overdo that either. I have done the re-exposure with the lamp slower and it had no detrimental effect. Likewise, you can't overdo the second developer as it just turns black the remaining silver - you can use anything here, even Rodinal, caffenol, Dektol, nothing special. Some people don't even use fixer but I do just for safety in case there's any remaining silver that shouldn't be there. This can't be overdone either unless you leave it soaking for hours and hours.
snarfusmaximus thank you for taking your time for this reply!! I’ll give it a try tomorrow! Would Kodak HC110 developer also work you think? How many times you think I can reuse the developer for the 100ft film? Also bleach should be okey to reuse a couple times right? Once again you are big help on this one. Not many people have had any info on TriX online!
I would use a high contrast developer for the first developer. I use D19, as I bought heaps years ago, but I believe it has been discontinued. From what I have read, Dektol is a decent substitute although it's meant to make the film look grainier. HC110 will be fine for the second developer but don't reuse it as it's a one-shot developer - can only be used once. Powder developers are generally reusable. You can also reuse the bleach and clear a few times as well.
@@snarfusmaximus Today was the day. Finally tried out my test roll. Took ages but was fun and luckily know that this second bolex I got works. However the film turned out undeveloped I would assume. The first two feet of the 100ft film look decent but the rest is just hard to really see anything. Judging that the first feet got more developing time being at the end of the film, would you recommend having it in the developer (Microphen) longer? I developed TriX 7266 reversal. How accurate do you have the temperate of the chemicals? I might have been 1-2C over the recommended 21 degree celcius... any help would be appreciated! I can also send some examples for you to check.
Assuming you exposed the film correctly - If the image is too dark, then it hasn't spent enough time in the first developer, if it is too light then it has spent too long in the first developer. I don't know what the times would be for Microphen but the above should be a guide. A degree or two above or below should make little difference.
Thanks for the video! I just bought one of these tanks as I like to learn to process myself. I'm just getting into 16mm filming, bought a vintage Keystone deluxe some time ago but was not sure film is still available.
You can still buy film. I get mine from Wittner Kinotechnik in Germany. They do both double and single perforated - check the feed sprocket on your camera to make sure you get the right type.
The first thing on _every_ list is to wash one's hands. Then a reminder to remove rings and watches. Not only did they get in the way, back in the day watches weren't as waterproof as they are now. Plus, the chemicals could have possible...eh...interactions with the materials of rings and watches - especially those thirty-dollar Rolexes your girlfriend got you on the boardwalk! Best if all such were removed prior to...developments you weren't counting on. The Morse G3 brings back so many memories. It would have been better if you had actually poured water into the tank during the demonstration to show how quickly it filled and the quantity needed. (You could have removed the film first.) You then bump it sharply to remove bubbles and go from there. Regular 8mm could be fed into it because it was actually 16mm, exposed on both sides, developed, then sliced down the middle and spliced into a single roll of film. Ektachrome could be developed, but I think Kodachrome had to be developed by Kodak, I think. I also developed B&W 8mm film which I reloaded onto 16mm reel/8mm reels. It was so cool, but it was such a pain in the ass. Very expensive and the results...meh. You went through all that trouble for just seconds of play back. What a waste of time, money and effort. I had a really cool toy, an 8mm toy projector that actually worked quite well. It broke down the middle and one half was a screen. You could then extend a reel take up, load on an 8mm film reel and watch whatever movies you wanted up to 50 feet. It worked well and didn't jam or chatter. I went in our bathroom, turned off the light and had my own drive-in. Wolfman, Frankenstein, Dracula and other Famous Monsters of Filmland movies, all at 24fps! We've come a long way. __
Hello With the G3 clamp, how did you meet the tight deadlines for an ECN2 development ,? in particular how did you respect the 10s of the prebath and the 3 minutes for the development? Thank you Marco
Cool. Do you know of a place to purchase the bleach. I believe tri-x requires an r10 bleach that I am having trouble finding. I have the d76 fix and hypo clear etc it's the bleach that's giving me trouble
I use potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid as a bleach for all B&W reversal. I stocked up on the stuff years ago, got it from Vanbar in Melbourne Australia (me living there). Most decent photographic suppliers should carry the stuff. A warning though - sulphuric acid is obviously dangerous, and the dichromate is bloody nasty stuff known to be carcinogenic. Exercise some real care when handling it.
Wonderful video mate. Mine should be coming soon and I'm planning to do some standard 8 Fomapan soon. I'm thinking since there's only 30ft of film on a spool, I would need to do two full cycles a minute instead of one with 100ft of film. Any tips on drying the film once done?
You'll find that you'll process a 30ft roll much quicker, probably just under 3 cycles a minute. Keep your pace steady and constant, around 2 turns a second like I do in the video. I did some Plus-X like this and it looked fine. The hole in a standard 8 spool is also smaller and won't fit on the rods in the tank. You may need to initially wind it on the developing spool by hand. All is the same from then on. To dry, I just wind the film around a clothes horse with the emulsion side out. Don't forget to use Photoflow in the final wash to reduce drying spots. Also take note of my comments elsewhere about Fomapan R needing a fresh batch of chemicals.
snarfusmaximus Excellent and very helpful video!! Thank you very much...I've got my hands on a Morse G3 too and I'm going to try developing some standard 8 Fomapan R100 30 ft length with it. I want to try to figure out if the number of cycles would change from your method using a 100ft length. Would I do the same number of cycles as you are doing, even though the film would spend much shorter of a time in the chemicals? Also, are you using Foma's reversal kit chemicals for this?
Many thanks. The number of cycles are the same as long as you turn it at the same rate of two turns per second. Being a shorter spool, it'll be quicker than if you did 100ft. I've never used Foma's reversal kit. I use Kodak D19 for the developers, a potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid bleach, a sodium sulphate clearing bath, and what ever fixer I have on hand. Unfortunately Kodak discontinued D19 a while back so I'll be forced to mix this up from scratch once my remaining bags run out.
My original bleach recipe was 12ml of sulphuric acid and 9g of potassium dichromate to 1l of water, using the amount of cycles displayed later in the video. I now use half the amount of acid and dichromate in 1l of water and double the amount of cycles. This has the advantage of being gentler on the film but you can't reuse the bleach.
Many thanks for posting this, I just got hold of a Russian copy of this tank and am trying it out some Fomapan R very soon. What quantity of the solutions do you need to add to the tank?
You only need 1 litre. The chart at the end of the video for the amount of cycles per bath will be fine for Fomapan. One thing to take note is that Fomapan R needs fresh chemicals - i.e. be the first film. You can reuse the chemicals for other film stocks like Tri-X or Orwo etc. I think this is because the anti-halation layer on Fomapan is silver and not a dye.
Thanks. It would be interesting to see some result from processing like this, are there any thing possible to see? I would imagine the quality to be somewhat worse than with processing in reels.
@@snarfusmaximus Ive seen very little information about processing reversal in these tanks. Have you done it? What was the exposure stage like as far as time and light used?
That's an interesting video, thanks for sharing. I've just recently decided to take up 16mm filming. In the not too distant future I'll be looking to process my own films as well. Can I ask where did you buy your tank. Dave.
It's possible to get 100 foot lomo tanks. You might have to fight brutally on ebay for them though. If you're tired of all that cranking why don't you just do it with a drill attachment? Would probably do it more consistently too.
Yep, those Lomo tanks are getting expensive. I have one coming that does 2x50ft which I found cheap. Will be my tank of choice for E6 and 8mm gauges as I can't imagine E6 working in a Morse. I have considered making a motor attachment but your idea of using a drill sounds feasible.
Hello. Could you tell what your developing time would be in minutes for a spiral tank like a Lomo? I am going to use Tetenal Dokumol as explained in the article here www.super8camera.com/processing/ (which is supposed to go for six minutes). Do you have a rough guesstimate as to how long/how many cranks it would take with the Morse? I guess a better question to ask would be an approximate translation between minutes for suggested developing time and number of turns. Thanks Brian
+Brian Schmidt I have tried Dokumol and never had any success with it so I abandoned it. I stuck with D19 and plan to mix it from scratch once my stash runs out.
@@snarfusmaximus Alright. I tried my first round of development of some expired (1963) BW reversal tri-x (16MM) last night and results were- less than stellar. About half was because im new and under exposed a lot of it, which led to it remaining a negative. There was a lot of grain which I think is due to the age of the film but the major issue was the terrible contrast. shadows were just super dark and the film seemed almost foggy. I used the foma reversal BW kit, so maybe the developer is just shit or I need to adjust it for the expired film? idk, still learning Thanks for the speedy reply!
If you're just starting out and processing your first film, use a new roll. This way you will know if you're doing it right or not. With film that old, you need to overexpose the crap out of it. Even then, reversal processing isn't recommended for film that old. It's better to process it as a negative and scan.
@@snarfusmaximus Ok, thanks for the help! Is there anyplace I can pick up 16mm reversal film without spending an arm and a leg? All the new stuff is like $50 for 100 feet
Thanks for posting this!!! I recently acquired a Russian Lomo UPB-1A tank which I will be experimenting with soon. I intend to shoot Tri-X and process as a negative since I will be digitally reversing the image. However, I have been wondering if this will affect the image in a bad way? Will I be sacrificing anything in terms of dynamic range and density? Thanks again!
I've never processed my movie film as a negative so I can't help you with that, I'm sorry to say. I use high contrast developers like D19 or Dokumol when I do reversal processing so I assume it would be the same for a negative.
snarfusmaximus Do you mix your chemicals to the same strength as you would for still film? For example, if I were to develop Tri-X, would I be safe following the recommended formula for Tri-X still film? Thanks again!
Mark Hinchey I would just follow the standard formula one would use for still film although I think Tri-X reversal is different to the standard Tri-X negative. I guess you'll need to experiment.
Hilarious sir! Loved this...and I am shooting 16mm and 8mm both. Been looking for developing myself...seems this could get tiring. LOMO tanks look easier, but not as inexpensive to find. Do you know if anyone has created an automation system, like an rPi board and motor that would crank this for you?
yosemitesamiam The advantage of the Morse is that you don't have to cut the film in two 50ft lengths like one needs to for the Lomo and you only need a litre of chems. Besides the constant turning, the other disadvantage is that E6 processing would be next to impossible. Mind you, I have heard rumour of people doing E6 in it. Obviously they're a lot more courageous than I am. I have seen a video or two of a home-built motorised system so I know it has been done. I may get around to it one day, possibly implementing an Arduino of some sort. My to-do list is rather massive, though. :-(
This looks like a good system. I would have predicted that the film would get a bit scratched with all that winding & unwinding whilst wet, but this doesn't seem to be a problem...
Can i use the same amount of cycles for a kodak tri-x 7266 16mm film?
106.5 feet of film and leader was in mine. I measured it. Then, it took 133 cranks to wind the film from one side to the other. That took 1 min and 20 sec to make the 133 cranks. I did slow down a little near the end when the supply side was spinning really fast. I just wound it with a normal crank speed that felt good. Not too fast and not slow either. The tension makes you wind at a certain speed to have something to pull on. 4 passes took 5 min and 20 seconds. D-94 only takes 2 min to develop the first time on a LOMO spiral, and D-95 only takes 30 seconds to develop the second time, but I don't know how many passes that would be on my Morse tank..
That tank looks prime for automating with an Arduino/RPI
I know you have answered this already vaguely. But I am developing Tri-X 7266, should I take your times and deduct 2 rounds from the total of only developer or all chemicals? How strict should I be with the temperature and timing? Also how many times can I reuse bleach? I am using Rollei B&w reversal kit to try this. Should be fine right?
Deduct 2 rounds just from the first developer and keep the rest as is. The best thing about B&W is there is a bit of latitude and room for a bit of error. I just keep a steady rhythm in my head when turning and it takes approximately one minute winding from one reel to the other. Nothing what I do here is extremely precise and I get good results. If you want to be pedantic, the first developer is the most important because screwing this part up ruins everything else down the line. You can't over bleach unless you fall asleep, and clearing just gets rid of the stain left behind by the bleach so you really can't overdo that either. I have done the re-exposure with the lamp slower and it had no detrimental effect. Likewise, you can't overdo the second developer as it just turns black the remaining silver - you can use anything here, even Rodinal, caffenol, Dektol, nothing special. Some people don't even use fixer but I do just for safety in case there's any remaining silver that shouldn't be there. This can't be overdone either unless you leave it soaking for hours and hours.
snarfusmaximus thank you for taking your time for this reply!! I’ll give it a try tomorrow! Would Kodak HC110 developer also work you think? How many times you think I can reuse the developer for the 100ft film? Also bleach should be okey to reuse a couple times right? Once again you are big help on this one. Not many people have had any info on TriX online!
I would use a high contrast developer for the first developer. I use D19, as I bought heaps years ago, but I believe it has been discontinued. From what I have read, Dektol is a decent substitute although it's meant to make the film look grainier. HC110 will be fine for the second developer but don't reuse it as it's a one-shot developer - can only be used once. Powder developers are generally reusable. You can also reuse the bleach and clear a few times as well.
@@snarfusmaximus Today was the day. Finally tried out my test roll. Took ages but was fun and luckily know that this second bolex I got works. However the film turned out undeveloped I would assume. The first two feet of the 100ft film look decent but the rest is just hard to really see anything. Judging that the first feet got more developing time being at the end of the film, would you recommend having it in the developer (Microphen) longer? I developed TriX 7266 reversal. How accurate do you have the temperate of the chemicals? I might have been 1-2C over the recommended 21 degree celcius... any help would be appreciated! I can also send some examples for you to check.
Assuming you exposed the film correctly - If the image is too dark, then it hasn't spent enough time in the first developer, if it is too light then it has spent too long in the first developer. I don't know what the times would be for Microphen but the above should be a guide. A degree or two above or below should make little difference.
Thanks for the video! I just bought one of these tanks as I like to learn to process myself. I'm just getting into 16mm filming, bought a vintage Keystone deluxe some time ago but was not sure film is still available.
You can still buy film. I get mine from Wittner Kinotechnik in Germany. They do both double and single perforated - check the feed sprocket on your camera to make sure you get the right type.
I found one of these for $12 at a garage sale why back when I was in film school. Still have it sitting next to my lomo tank. haha
shoot some film!!
Would you be interested in getting rid of it? I would love to try it out!
Hello, how do you estimate the time you need or the number of turn to develop with a revelator?
The first thing on _every_ list is to wash one's hands. Then a reminder to remove rings and watches. Not only did they get in the way, back in the day watches weren't as waterproof as they are now. Plus, the chemicals could have possible...eh...interactions with the materials of rings and watches - especially those thirty-dollar Rolexes your girlfriend got you on the boardwalk! Best if all such were removed prior to...developments you weren't counting on. The Morse G3 brings back so many memories.
It would have been better if you had actually poured water into the tank during the demonstration to show how quickly it filled and the quantity needed. (You could have removed the film first.) You then bump it sharply to remove bubbles and go from there. Regular 8mm could be fed into it because it was actually 16mm, exposed on both sides, developed, then sliced down the middle and spliced into a single roll of film.
Ektachrome could be developed, but I think Kodachrome had to be developed by Kodak, I think. I also developed B&W 8mm film which I reloaded onto 16mm reel/8mm reels.
It was so cool, but it was such a pain in the ass. Very expensive and the results...meh. You went through all that trouble for just seconds of play back. What a waste of time, money and effort. I had a really cool toy, an 8mm toy projector that actually worked quite well. It broke down the middle and one half was a screen. You could then extend a reel take up, load on an 8mm film reel and watch whatever movies you wanted up to 50 feet. It worked well and didn't jam or chatter. I went in our bathroom, turned off the light and had my own drive-in. Wolfman, Frankenstein, Dracula and other Famous Monsters of Filmland movies, all at 24fps!
We've come a long way.
__
Hello
With the G3 clamp, how did you meet the tight deadlines for an ECN2 development ,? in particular how did you respect the 10s of the prebath and the 3 minutes for the development?
Thank you
Marco
I've only done B&W reversal in this. I don't think it's the right method for colour. You'd be better off with a spiral tank.
@@snarfusmaximus Thank you
Mark
is there a link to see the developing cycles for tri x?
Please refer to the chart at the 12:35 mark. Just do two cycles less for each development stage. Works a treat!
Cool. Do you know of a place to purchase the bleach. I believe tri-x requires an r10 bleach that I am having trouble finding. I have the d76 fix and hypo clear etc it's the bleach that's giving me trouble
I use potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid as a bleach for all B&W reversal. I stocked up on the stuff years ago, got it from Vanbar in Melbourne Australia (me living there). Most decent photographic suppliers should carry the stuff. A warning though - sulphuric acid is obviously dangerous, and the dichromate is bloody nasty stuff known to be carcinogenic. Exercise some real care when handling it.
snarfusmaximus The clr step is HYpo clear yes?
The clear bath is to remove the orange/yellow stain of the bleach. It's made of 90g of sodium sulphite to 1 litre of water.
Wonderful video mate. Mine should be coming soon and I'm planning to do some standard 8 Fomapan soon. I'm thinking since there's only 30ft of film on a spool, I would need to do two full cycles a minute instead of one with 100ft of film. Any tips on drying the film once done?
You'll find that you'll process a 30ft roll much quicker, probably just under 3 cycles a minute. Keep your pace steady and constant, around 2 turns a second like I do in the video. I did some Plus-X like this and it looked fine. The hole in a standard 8 spool is also smaller and won't fit on the rods in the tank. You may need to initially wind it on the developing spool by hand. All is the same from then on.
To dry, I just wind the film around a clothes horse with the emulsion side out. Don't forget to use Photoflow in the final wash to reduce drying spots. Also take note of my comments elsewhere about Fomapan R needing a fresh batch of chemicals.
snarfusmaximus Excellent and very helpful video!! Thank you very much...I've got my hands on a Morse G3 too and I'm going to try developing some standard 8 Fomapan R100 30 ft length with it. I want to try to figure out if the number of cycles would change from your method using a 100ft length. Would I do the same number of cycles as you are doing, even though the film would spend much shorter of a time in the chemicals?
Also, are you using Foma's reversal kit chemicals for this?
Many thanks. The number of cycles are the same as long as you turn it at the same rate of two turns per second. Being a shorter spool, it'll be quicker than if you did 100ft. I've never used Foma's reversal kit. I use Kodak D19 for the developers, a potassium dichromate and sulphuric acid bleach, a sodium sulphate clearing bath, and what ever fixer I have on hand. Unfortunately Kodak discontinued D19 a while back so I'll be forced to mix this up from scratch once my remaining bags run out.
Hi there, thanks for making this video! I'm curious what your bleach solution. Thank you for your time.
My original bleach recipe was 12ml of sulphuric acid and 9g of potassium dichromate to 1l of water, using the amount of cycles displayed later in the video. I now use half the amount of acid and dichromate in 1l of water and double the amount of cycles. This has the advantage of being gentler on the film but you can't reuse the bleach.
thanks a lot!
Many thanks for posting this, I just got hold of a Russian copy of this tank and am trying it out some Fomapan R very soon. What quantity of the solutions do you need to add to the tank?
You only need 1 litre. The chart at the end of the video for the amount of cycles per bath will be fine for Fomapan.
One thing to take note is that Fomapan R needs fresh chemicals - i.e. be the first film. You can reuse the chemicals for other film stocks like Tri-X or Orwo etc. I think this is because the anti-halation layer on Fomapan is silver and not a dye.
Thanks. It would be interesting to see some result from processing like this, are there any thing possible to see? I would imagine the quality to be somewhat worse than with processing in reels.
geirtbr It looks surprisingly good. Here's an example I did - Dijana, Christmas 2012 - 16mm Fomapan R
Good :-), i'm jalous
hi, what developer do you use and what light do you use to expose? Thanks
Joey Stickfigure - I use Kodak D19 developer and any strong light such as a halogen.
@@snarfusmaximus Ive seen very little information about processing reversal in these tanks. Have you done it? What was the exposure stage like as far as time and light used?
That's an interesting video, thanks for sharing. I've just recently decided to take up
16mm filming. In the not too distant future I'll be looking to process my own films as well. Can I ask where did you buy your tank.
Dave.
Good ol' eBay.
It's possible to get 100 foot lomo tanks. You might have to fight brutally on ebay for them though. If you're tired of all that cranking why don't you just do it with a drill attachment? Would probably do it more consistently too.
Yep, those Lomo tanks are getting expensive. I have one coming that does 2x50ft which I found cheap. Will be my tank of choice for E6 and 8mm gauges as I can't imagine E6 working in a Morse. I have considered making a motor attachment but your idea of using a drill sounds feasible.
Hello.
Could you tell what your developing time would be in minutes for a spiral tank like a Lomo? I am going to use Tetenal Dokumol as explained in the article here www.super8camera.com/processing/ (which is supposed to go for six minutes). Do you have a rough guesstimate as to how long/how many cranks it would take with the Morse?
I guess a better question to ask would be an approximate translation between minutes for suggested developing time and number of turns.
Thanks
Brian
+Brian Schmidt That would be method #2 listed on the page.
Thanks
Brian
+Brian Schmidt I have tried Dokumol and never had any success with it so I abandoned it. I stuck with D19 and plan to mix it from scratch once my stash runs out.
Would Permanganate bleach work with the same amount of cycles?
Yeah, it should
@@snarfusmaximus Alright. I tried my first round of development of some expired (1963) BW reversal tri-x (16MM) last night and results were- less than stellar. About half was because im new and under exposed a lot of it, which led to it remaining a negative.
There was a lot of grain which I think is due to the age of the film
but the major issue was the terrible contrast. shadows were just super dark and the film seemed almost foggy. I used the foma reversal BW kit, so maybe the developer is just shit or I need to adjust it for the expired film?
idk, still learning
Thanks for the speedy reply!
If you're just starting out and processing your first film, use a new roll. This way you will know if you're doing it right or not. With film that old, you need to overexpose the crap out of it. Even then, reversal processing isn't recommended for film that old. It's better to process it as a negative and scan.
@@snarfusmaximus Ok, thanks for the help!
Is there anyplace I can pick up 16mm reversal film without spending an arm and a leg? All the new stuff is like $50 for 100 feet
16mm is generally expensive. Foma R100 is probably the cheapest you'll find although it requires fresh chemistry for each roll.
Thanks for posting this!!! I recently acquired a Russian Lomo UPB-1A tank which I will be experimenting with soon. I intend to shoot Tri-X and process as a negative since I will be digitally reversing the image. However, I have been wondering if this will affect the image in a bad way? Will I be sacrificing anything in terms of dynamic range and density? Thanks again!
I've never processed my movie film as a negative so I can't help you with that, I'm sorry to say. I use high contrast developers like D19 or Dokumol when I do reversal processing so I assume it would be the same for a negative.
snarfusmaximus Do you mix your chemicals to the same strength as you would for still film? For example, if I were to develop Tri-X, would I be safe following the recommended formula for Tri-X still film? Thanks again!
Mark Hinchey I would just follow the standard formula one would use for still film although I think Tri-X reversal is different to the standard Tri-X negative. I guess you'll need to experiment.
Hilarious sir! Loved this...and I am shooting 16mm and 8mm both. Been looking for developing myself...seems this could get tiring. LOMO tanks look easier, but not as inexpensive to find. Do you know if anyone has created an automation system, like an rPi board and motor that would crank this for you?
yosemitesamiam The advantage of the Morse is that you don't have to cut the film in two 50ft lengths like one needs to for the Lomo and you only need a litre of chems. Besides the constant turning, the other disadvantage is that E6 processing would be next to impossible. Mind you, I have heard rumour of people doing E6 in it. Obviously they're a lot more courageous than I am.
I have seen a video or two of a home-built motorised system so I know it has been done. I may get around to it one day, possibly implementing an Arduino of some sort. My to-do list is rather massive, though. :-(
This looks like a good system. I would have predicted that the film would get a bit scratched with all that winding & unwinding whilst wet, but this doesn't seem to be a problem...
L.O.L.