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Climbing the Nose of El Cap in 8 hours (NIAD)
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- After getting off the Nose in 4 days on 11/3, I took one rest day to strategize a NIAD run with Chris Farrah. Chris hadn't been on the Nose in over a year and we had no idea what our time would be. We were hoping for something in the 12 to 14 hour range but we would not have been surprised if it took longer. We went up for a Dolt run and both got to the top in 2:48. We were psyched! We came down, rested and went up for the real thing on 11/7/19. We eventually topped out in 8:06:13 after one of the most fun days I've ever had in my life. We used a Wild Country Revo to self belay while short fixing for those who are curious.
Link to beta/detailed description of the day: docs.google.com/document/d/1F...
"I wanna see how you lead this wide section."
"Oh, I pull on gear."
That's a freaking mood lmao
This freaked me out so much... I've never seen anyone use gear like this. Not my style at all, but I guess this is Aid climbing.
@@jigglestumps by any means necessary. french free is very fast
Congrats! I’m the first guy y’all passed in the stovelegs, thought you were moving fast! We finished 2 days later :)
wow, with the record sub 2 hr, I don't think people realize how respectable an 8 hr ascent is. I did it in 17 hrs and was proud (and tired). Great job!!!
Was the record actual climbing though? As opposed to Aid climbing.
@@jigglestumps as tradition, when 'speed climbing' The Nose, all cheating is allowed. When Alex and Tommy broke the 2hr record, they were pulling on gear exactly like this :) The whole process is documented in the 'REEL ROCK 14' film
Man, I'm looking at how fast you guys are going, then I'm trying to imagine Tommy and Alex going more than 4x faster, and it's breaking my brain.
Without pulling on gear btw
@@iloveadventures6710 Alex and Tommy pulled on gear and aided as well.
@@spencershields9186 And ran the whole thing out and simul-climbed. It's all good unless you slip and take a whip!
@@iloveadventures6710 speed ascents are by any means. just no fixed ropes
Oh man, the handjam sections look glorious! Well done, must have been so fun!
10:30
-"How long have you been working the route"
-"Like for the push only"
Dude in pink spandex is Sebastien Berthé. First guy to free climb The Nose ground up.
@@dbpieter I just noticed that in another video. I had to look at the tights, green hoodie, and blue shirt. I knew I recognized it somewhere.
The real definition of trusting your gear with your life.
Nice work! Cool to see such dialed systems in a video of the nose.
Nice job! My security conscious brain was triggered when seeing no leash to your aiders on the bolt ladder and the quick "whoops, bad clip, reclip.." Dropping one would be a PITA :)
Most people will never ascend El Cap, much less in 8 hours. Nice work!
Great Video! I really enjoyed seeing what is was like on the wall!
Holy shit, man. I just came across your channel and commented on your vid of Serenity Crack and even threw in some advice on that. Lol, you obviously don't need my advice. Pretty impressive climbing career already, young man.
Awesome ascent. Superb time and nice nice video!!!
Some four pitch routes have taken me longer than eight hours to complete. This whole video I feel your stoak!
Crushed it, solid work!
Proud ascent!
A relief to see that gear clipped at 5:52
Rad video... and good videos in general !
Nice work man!
This is friggin amazing stuff
Wow great close up authentic action
Amazing.
It looks so different from the nose speed doco with tommy and alex
I really liked this.
Wow 🤩 amazing job well done
cheers from red river gorge, kentucky, fellas!
nice work boys!
wished I could of seen the great roof...nice job guys
Way to kill it guys. Finding the right partner for something like that makes all the difference. 8 hours rocks
Pulling on those cams was badasssss…insanely dangerous, but badasss
nah, pulling on a cam is probably 1/5 the load of it holding a fall, which in turn in a normal fall is roughly 1/5 of it's breaking strength. cam strong.
For us, "Climbing the Nose of El Cap in 106 hours (NIAFD)"... Nose In Almost Five Days. Well done.
Khruangbin! the perfect vibe
I thought the same.
Props to all you guys, amazing. Folk joke but these kind of vids really are good motivation tools for all us sleepy heads say on our beds
Very impressive. Nice work!
All your videos are sick and I applaud the patience you have for editing. Quick question if ya don't mind, You have any good recommendations for climbing pants?
shouts out khruangbin after camp 6
Great video and blistering niad. Curious what was your split to Sickle Ledge? Those first four pitches can be pretty tedious.
The guy in the pink pants that was only working the route on his push, yeah, that guy is the 7th person in the world to free the route, and the only one to do it ground-up with no pre sequencing on top rope.
Who is this man?
@@thetopfan5031 ua-cam.com/video/DAq7iLSc6-M/v-deo.html
@@luciango1541 Ok cool thanks. I've seen that video, also. Did not realize it was the same person.
Oh shit! I didn’t even recognize him! Haha what a sick dude to run into on the wall
Yes! I recently saw his video for the first time. Guy is great.
Good job Chris
4:48 this is freaking terrifying. Holy sh*%balls! Is this the boot flake that Tommy and Alex were talking about an experienced climber tumbling down the back side before their speed run record? If so, that would be a gnarly fall indeed.
Also, that giant granite flake is experiencing a pretty hefty moment when a person is stemming on it to ascent. I'd estimate there's only roughly 300 pounds of force exerted by the climber. However, multiply that times the distance of the moment arm (looks like around 15 ft) to where the flake is attached to the mountain--that's roughly 4 500 ft-lb of torque on that flake. And that's not even taking into account the moment it's experiencing from the force of gravity upon itself leaning at that interesting 15 degree angle. In short, that flake is going to have an epic pop-off one day.
That's the boot flake he's climbing at 4:48. Spooky for sure, and it's a lot taller than 15ft!
Agree, looks like no pro and 100% deck if you blow the chimney technique.
@@JTMess7 isnt that the texas flake, boot flake is a jaming crack.
@@Charliened1 Yeah, you're totally right! That's my bad... boot flake is next pitch.
Just recently found this channel, but I'm hooked. Your videos are sweet. Also saw that you were using totems pretty often, which sizes do you find most useful? I'm looking at buying a couple, but I don't think I'm ready to drop the money on a whole single rack of them.
Thanks! I appreciate the kind words. I personally think the only totems worth buying are black through purple. Some people like green as well but I would not go any larger than that.
@@tylerkarow Awesome, thanks for the advice!
this is so sick, I want to climb Freerider/Slathe in the next decade...
"I pull on gear" best answer ever
just came across this. looked like a good time! question: how do you like using the revo for self-belaying? i've heard horror stories about it jamming horribly after catching a fall. have you found that to be the case?
I've used the revo on two routes but I haven't taken a fall on it. I've heard some mixed things regarding the revo's safety record for self belay but I can's speak from experience.
Looks like y’all know what you’re doin. My buddies and I have recently wanted to try and pick up bouldering, what would be good safety equipment to invest into
Shoes, chalk bag and a crash pad is all ya need
TYLER! WAS THAT MR.HEAVENLY I HEARD YOU PLAYING?
There seems to be quite a few bolts on the nose. Pretty soon it’ll have a handicapped route.
Absolutely epic!! The Nose would be the pinnacle of my climbing pursuits!! Can you give me some beta on the king swing pitches? After both climbers reach the top of boot flake, you ran your rope thru the rings and the leader gets lowered down to swing over. I get that. After you anchor in, do you lower your second and they swing over also, then once anchored in, the 2nd unties and pulls the rope? (Seems like a big rope stretcher! Or do you use two ropes tied together?) OR! Does the 2nd aid climb out on the bolt ladder after texas flake, wait for the leader to top boot flake, run the rope thru, then lowers him down and both swing over? I'm just trying to piece together the logistics of the king swing. That's the few pitches I'm scratching my head on. Thanks Tyler! Fucking epic send man!
No. The second normally doesn't go up the boot. When I did it, I lowered my leader to clean the gear and then he swung, followed by me. We met at eagle ledge. If you are super good and brave (braver than Tommy Caldwell even), you could not place in the boot and only your second swings, then runs out the next section so you can lower out off the boot. Way beyond my capabilities;)
Kyle Drake I don’t think a sub 8 hr Nose ascent is in my future any time soon, let alone do it Tommy and Alex style in an hour and 58 minutes. ;) That makes sense. Leader lowers and cleans then swings, then the 2nd swings over. Did he leave any other gear below the Boot, across from eagle ledge to act as a directional for you? Doesn’t the 2nd need to climb up the bolt ladder to get to the bottom of the boot in order to swing over? That must be the sickest section of the whole route!
Who makes the two-pronged adjustable daisy that you guys are using? I've been looking at the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust but one of the arms on that is fixed.
petzl makes it
evolv adjust is what they call it
style!!
Couldn't tell what you were using to self belay with. Grigri, PDL, something else?
did you run out some sections and use the short roping technique ?
RaaaaaaaaaaDDD!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Sweeeeeeeeeet!!
Is this the fastest time by anyone wearing a head camera? I think it might be.
Khruangbin 😍
Now how legit is this? I'm new to climbing and have only done indoor. But i see tons of tool useage, using equipment to ascend, ropes to access horizontal areas, etc (I'm guessing you skipped over higher skill areas)? Did you both climb every section in your range?
Also the part with your ass on the rock and your legs on the other wall, it looked like if you had fallen you weren't tethered to anything.
Only the top apex of climbers are able to free climb a route such as the nose. These guys used a mix of aid and free climbing which is what most people do. Its a legit climb, the use of all the equipment is very common place.
@@smokinbigdoinks7715 Cool good to know thanks!
your second comment is true, when chimneying up texas flake he put no gear in. and had he fallen he would hit the ledge and probably seriously injure himself. But chimneying is very secure climbing for someone who has spent a lot of time in the valley.
Are those bolts always left in the wall for others to use?
Yes, and there can be gear that is “fixed” or stuck from other parties that can be used as well
David Pagel thank you
What pastry was that?
Thats funny...did i see this right? you guys met Sébastien Berthe on his free ascent as the 7th person in the world.
Just came here to comment this! You are correct I'm 99% sure. Pretty funny timing
fuck yeah
what is this climbing style called, I see him using those anchors as handles for climbing instead of using his hands
Amazing job. Now i expect you to cut that time in half...
Tyler in this case you used gloves?
I've spent so much time trying to understand how the systems work of just free climbing big walls that this almost makes zero sense to me. It's almost as confusing as rope soloing.
Is this considered aid climbing?
yes
How does one trust a rope this much I probably wont ever understand fully :) But so awesome to see this footage!
The rope is easily the strongest link in the system (sans maybe the bolts). Worry about everything else in the system first.
Because the rope is capable of holding around 2456 pounds, give or take.
For real question:
Is pulling on gear kosher? Like, could someone make an argument like: "Oh he pulled gear up the route so I wound't call it a clean climb"
What's the ethics in this? Does it count? Etc. Just curious. Thanks
an ascent like this is pretty much the raddest thing a normal human being can do, free climbing this kind of stuff is only for the super elite pro climbers
they climbed the route, they did not "free" the route
Didnt alex free solo the whole thing in 2 hours
No, he free solod it just under 4 hours. But he had zero equipment of course so he had nothing to do but climb, and none of the gear weighing him down. Usually takes days for people to complete it. More gear more time, more time, more gear
Either way thats a scary climb, free soloing that is something else my lord
what is NIAD?
Nose In A Day. As in, climb the Nose in a day. Just looked it up myself
Seems easy enough...
reasons why you might not want to speed climb......the tragedy of cam aiding on the stovelegs, the best free pitch of the worlds best rock climb. ;)
You speed climbers feckin scare me.
Isn’t it cheating using cams to climb?
It's an aid route. Tyler wasn't trying to free the route, just speed up in a day, and you can also see him using aiders on the bolt ladder. Pulling on protection would indeed be "cheating" on an attempt to free climb the route, but that wasn't the intention here.
Michael Shuler understood, thank you
It might also be misconstrued as cheating if he used aid and then didn't show aid use in the video. He deliberately left the aid footage in there so as not to misrepresent the style of ascent. If you do what you claim and claim what you do, we're all good.
ipudisciple Makes sense, thanks for the clarification, I’m learning slowly, like with the nose speed record you can aid climb too I have learned, I’m still trying to learn the differences, thanks again
@@officialcoachdanny Only a few climbers have ever free climbed the nose. Forget the actual count but I know it's less than 10.
Looks like the exact opposite of fun
Exactly !! 🤪
Alex Honnold says hold my beer...
Going fast is a recipe for mistakes. Not a good plan Stan.
please put the camera on the belayer, so nauseating
This must be the first wobble zoom, random pan, vomit inducing Blairwitch video of this obscure and little known route. 🎉
Why are u such a d bag
I never understand people who take music to one of the most pristine places on the planet. So fucking weird.
Cheat codes were used