Having trouble using Winisd. I put all the values in for my Skar EVL 12 and the Earthquake PR. My box size is way too small in my opinion. It's around 1cuft. Trying to build this box with my son. We have already built two ported boxes.
Everything I've found about passive radiators says you should have at least twice the cone area of your active driver. I'm getting ready to try my first passive radiator setup with a Dayton audio 12 and 2 Dayton audio passive radiators. Hopefully no mechanical noise. I like those lows 😁. Nice video though 👍
The actual rule of thumb is that your passive cones must be able to displace twice the air that your active cones can. So the two cones can be the same size if the passive cone has twice the x max.
As I'm nearing completion on my custom speaker cabinets each will have a 10in subwoofer an two 10in passive radiators tuned to 16.7hz in a 2ft3 box the sub is in the front and the passive rads are in the back of the box an according to winisd with the chosen sub a rads an tuning fq is flat down to 27hz with a rolloff at 24hz at - 6db an that's all with a empty box now for my long winded question should I add any polyfill
It's not necessary, but some kind of stuffing might help with standing waves. I always throw a little bit of something, even if it's just insulation in most of my builds.
@@DIYAudioGuy one other thing in my cabinet design the walls are .875in thick an the front and back baffles are 1.5in with a half in flush cut so the drivers sit on a 1in thick layer is that all structurally good enough
@@karterarkileez6603 Why it has good sound!! Trash are homemade Speakers!! JBL Has detailed and good made Speakers because JBL Has designers whose work is this!!👍
JBL is made by Harmon, Harmon is one of the few speaker companies that hire legit sound engineers. I am talking about people like Richard Small, as in the Thiele/Small parameters Richard Small that they hired back in 1993. A big company like that will engineer speakers for a given price point, which will impact sound quality. So some JBL is amazing and some is not. As far as homemade speakers being trash, this is not true either. There is a subculture of speaker builders that enter into competitions like the MidWest Audio Fest and there are DIY kits that will hold their own with professionally developed speakers. Mine are not there yet, but they will be one day and I am having a lot of fun learning the process. It is a fun hobby, and an exciting adventure. You should give it a try.
Is it bad to have too much xmax on the passive radiator? The passive I want to use was intended to pair with a subwoofer with double the excursion. 10 in passive with 10in low excursion subwoofer if the excursion is low enough you think a 12in sub with a similar excursion would also work? Or two 10in subwoofers? PR: Boston Acoustics GTR10 Sub: Audiopipe TS-CAR10 12in Sub: Audiopipe TS-CAR12 Less than a centimeter depth difference between the two and same excursion. The Boston Acoustics sub its intended to be paired with has 14.5mm xmax. The Audipipes only have 7.5mm.
The passive radiators have to be able to move double the amount of air as the subwoofer. So one passive radiator will work but it has to have double the x max of the subwoofer. if the passive radiator has the same amount of X-Max as the subwoofer then you need two passives. it gets a little bit more complicated when you pair up a 10-inch subwoofer with a 12-inch passive. You just have to calculate the cone area and multiply that by the x max to find the volume. keep in mind that cone area is usually in inches or centimeters and x max is in millimeters so you have to do some conversions.
Hey using that software is nice but does anyone know if under the filter options which of them is comparable to the high & low shelf options on the outlaw audio 976 balanced receiver subwoofer eq settings
Could u do a detailed video of how to use winisd how to get the most out of ur sub with a ported box or really anything just trying to learn how to use it
Probably not. The passive radiator must be able to displace twice the air volume as the active driver. Since the cone area on two tens is more than the cone area on one twelve the xmax on that 12 would have to be huge, or the xmax on the tens would have to be very small. you might be able to pull it off with two 12-inch passive radiators and two 10-inch drivers. It will depend on the xmax.
I'm planning my own version of parts express duel 15in rad 15in subwoofer combo that's 3. 2cubic foot thers is a cube shaped that just takes up to much room in my home theater I'm building my own at 3.5cubicfeet with the same twin 15in radiators but mine will be a flatter build plus with the wood from home depot it came up to just 95$ thats for two separate 15in builds each with dual 15in radiators I'll be using a 15in 2ohm Audiopipe
@@DIYAudioGuyiv already bought 4 of the RSS390-PR 15 two of the Dayton Audio RSS390-PR 15" Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator for each box , i just not sure if i should add some kind of baffel contours in the box to shape the sound from the sub to the rads or wheither to just leave the inside of the box bare except for a light coating of Acry-Tech Acoust-X Damping Material i do plan on coating the outside with some EPOXY Resin in a 3 to 1 harder ratio an give it a red color via of the Black Diamond Pigment powder , any thoughts on what kind of spray gun i could use to with the EPOXY Resin ?
@@DREDKNOT2063 I have never worked with epoxy resin. But my first guess would be a cheap $10 spray gun from Harbor Freight that way you can throw it away after you gum it up.
@@DIYAudioGuy ya got a link for that an if ya can check out this vid screen grab of my winisd for my build hopful is correct about the builds real world performence ua-cam.com/video/Yjy3b1b0oAM/v-deo.html
Because that would defeat the purpose. Without the passive radiator you get almost no low end extension. Now instead of the passive, install an active driver. Boom, now your enclosure space is cut in half because it has to be shared between 2 drivers. Now your low end extension is even WORSE
The passive radiator must be able to displace twice the air as the active driver. So if the active driver and the passive radiator have the same cone area and the same x max then you need a second driver. Kicker, for example, is currently selling a compact enclosure with one passive and one active. Thanks for watching in thanks for commenting!
I had to plug that into google translate, I will do my best to answer. The rule of thumb is that the passive (or passives) must have the ability to displace twice the air that the active can displace. So if the active has 5mm of xmax and a 500 cm cone area then it can displace 250 cubic centimeters of air in one outward stroke. If you had a passive with the same xmax and cone area then you would need two passives. If you had a bunch of smaller passive radiators that would work, you would just need enough of them to double the active's air displacement.
I made this out of half-inch birch plywood. The material was off-cuts from a local cabinet shop, and it is true half-inch material. Most half-inch plywood is undersized. But if you use MDF these will be fine: Baffle (x2) 21" x 11" Rear: 21"x11" Bottom: 21" x 8.75" Top: 21" x 8.75 Sides (x2): 8.75"x 10" Center Brace: 8.75"x 10"
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks. With that I know box volume. I need to make mine slightly different to fit. This will improve the WAF (Wife Acceptability Factor). WAF is the most important specification in home audio, you know. Joe
@@Godzilla2k69 If you are using it for a home theater subs, I would not. You will want something bigger. This is good for a small 2.1 computer/desk/ bedroom speaker.
Get the woofer and PR here:
Passive Radiator: amzn.to/3efmwAs
Woofer: amzn.to/2Vo5fw1
Thank you so much for making this video. Enjoy the process.👍
Thanks for watching.
Having trouble using Winisd. I put all the values in for my Skar EVL 12 and the Earthquake PR. My box size is way too small in my opinion. It's around 1cuft. Trying to build this box with my son. We have already built two ported boxes.
Everything I've found about passive radiators says you should have at least twice the cone area of your active driver. I'm getting ready to try my first passive radiator setup with a Dayton audio 12 and 2 Dayton audio passive radiators. Hopefully no mechanical noise. I like those lows 😁. Nice video though 👍
The actual rule of thumb is that your passive cones must be able to displace twice the air that your active cones can. So the two cones can be the same size if the passive cone has twice the x max.
As I'm nearing completion on my custom speaker cabinets each will have a 10in subwoofer an two 10in passive radiators tuned to 16.7hz in a 2ft3 box the sub is in the front and the passive rads are in the back of the box an according to winisd with the chosen sub a rads an tuning fq is flat down to 27hz with a rolloff at 24hz at - 6db an that's all with a empty box now for my long winded question should I add any polyfill
It's not necessary, but some kind of stuffing might help with standing waves. I always throw a little bit of something, even if it's just insulation in most of my builds.
@@DIYAudioGuy one other thing in my cabinet design the walls are .875in thick an the front and back baffles are 1.5in with a half in flush cut so the drivers sit on a 1in thick layer is that all structurally good enough
@@DREDKNOT2063 I think so, If you're worried about it install some bracing.
Nice!! I have Xtreme 2 with bass radiators 😂👍
Αντώνης Μαγκανιάρης trash
@@karterarkileez6603 Why it has good sound!! Trash are homemade Speakers!! JBL Has detailed and good made Speakers because JBL Has designers whose work is this!!👍
JBL is made by Harmon, Harmon is one of the few speaker companies that hire legit sound engineers. I am talking about people like Richard Small, as in the Thiele/Small parameters Richard Small that they hired back in 1993. A big company like that will engineer speakers for a given price point, which will impact sound quality. So some JBL is amazing and some is not.
As far as homemade speakers being trash, this is not true either. There is a subculture of speaker builders that enter into competitions like the MidWest Audio Fest and there are DIY kits that will hold their own with professionally developed speakers. Mine are not there yet, but they will be one day and I am having a lot of fun learning the process. It is a fun hobby, and an exciting adventure. You should give it a try.
Is it bad to have too much xmax on the passive radiator? The passive I want to use was intended to pair with a subwoofer with double the excursion. 10 in passive with 10in low excursion subwoofer
if the excursion is low enough you think a 12in sub with a similar excursion would also work? Or two 10in subwoofers?
PR: Boston Acoustics GTR10
Sub: Audiopipe TS-CAR10
12in Sub: Audiopipe TS-CAR12
Less than a centimeter depth difference between the two and same excursion.
The Boston Acoustics sub its intended to be paired with has 14.5mm xmax. The Audipipes only have 7.5mm.
The passive radiators have to be able to move double the amount of air as the subwoofer. So one passive radiator will work but it has to have double the x max of the subwoofer. if the passive radiator has the same amount of X-Max as the subwoofer then you need two passives. it gets a little bit more complicated when you pair up a 10-inch subwoofer with a 12-inch passive. You just have to calculate the cone area and multiply that by the x max to find the volume. keep in mind that cone area is usually in inches or centimeters and x max is in millimeters so you have to do some conversions.
Looks damn good to me
Thanks!
Nice work!
Thank you! It was a fun build!
Hey using that software is nice but does anyone know if under the filter options which of them is comparable to the high & low shelf options on the outlaw audio 976 balanced receiver subwoofer eq settings
I do not know, sorry.
Good job! Looks like it's going to be nice.
Thanks! I had a lot of fun building it and learned a lot in the process!
Could u do a detailed video of how to use winisd how to get the most out of ur sub with a ported box or really anything just trying to learn how to use it
I sure can -- it may be a few weeks before I can get to it.
@@DIYAudioGuy well I sure will appreciate it I'm sure others will also. Thanks
Would a 12 inch passive radiator work for 2 10"
Probably not. The passive radiator must be able to displace twice the air volume as the active driver. Since the cone area on two tens is more than the cone area on one twelve the xmax on that 12 would have to be huge, or the xmax on the tens would have to be very small. you might be able to pull it off with two 12-inch passive radiators and two 10-inch drivers. It will depend on the xmax.
I'm planning my own version of parts express duel 15in rad 15in subwoofer combo that's
3. 2cubic foot thers is a cube shaped that just takes up to much room in my home theater I'm building my own at 3.5cubicfeet with the same twin 15in radiators but mine will be a flatter build plus with the wood from home depot it came up to just 95$ thats for two separate 15in builds each with dual 15in radiators I'll be using a 15in 2ohm Audiopipe
That sounds awesome! Which passive radiators are you going to use?
@@DIYAudioGuyiv already bought 4 of the RSS390-PR 15 two of the Dayton Audio RSS390-PR 15" Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator for each box , i just not sure if i should add some kind of baffel contours in the
box to shape the sound from the sub to the rads or wheither to just leave the inside of the box bare except for a light coating of Acry-Tech Acoust-X
Damping Material
i do plan on coating the outside with some EPOXY Resin in a 3 to 1 harder ratio an give it a red color via of the Black Diamond Pigment powder ,
any thoughts on what kind of spray gun i could use to with the EPOXY Resin ?
@@DREDKNOT2063 I have never worked with epoxy resin. But my first guess would be a cheap $10 spray gun from Harbor Freight that way you can throw it away after you gum it up.
@@DIYAudioGuy ya got a link for that an if ya can check out this vid screen grab of my winisd for my build hopful is correct about the builds real world performence ua-cam.com/video/Yjy3b1b0oAM/v-deo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy old link no good heres new ua-cam.com/video/mvSxe3Io2y0/v-deo.html
I don't know if he talks about this but, since passives cost about as much as live drivers, why not just use multiple live drivers?
That's the primary downside, a simple port is a lot cheaper.
Because that would defeat the purpose. Without the passive radiator you get almost no low end extension. Now instead of the passive, install an active driver. Boom, now your enclosure space is cut in half because it has to be shared between 2 drivers. Now your low end extension is even WORSE
a passive radiator must always be 2 times larger than the active driver? or am I wrong now.
The passive radiator must be able to displace twice the air as the active driver. So if the active driver and the passive radiator have the same cone area and the same x max then you need a second driver. Kicker, for example, is currently selling a compact enclosure with one passive and one active.
Thanks for watching in thanks for commenting!
@@qddk9545 please report back with your findings!
If I built a box with a passive radiator woofer the box has to be sealed not ported correct.
That's right. The idea is that you're using the passive radiator instead of a port.
please provide a link to constructionmaker thx
WINISD or SketchUp? Either way you can find them both with a quick Google search.
Bagaimana jika beda ukuran? speaker subwoofer 8" dan pasif radiator 4" x 2 ?
I had to plug that into google translate, I will do my best to answer. The rule of thumb is that the passive (or passives) must have the ability to displace twice the air that the active can displace. So if the active has 5mm of xmax and a 500 cm cone area then it can displace 250 cubic centimeters of air in one outward stroke. If you had a passive with the same xmax and cone area then you would need two passives. If you had a bunch of smaller passive radiators that would work, you would just need enough of them to double the active's air displacement.
Can you please post a cut list ?
A lot of people ask for them. I will start including them in videos. When I get back to my computer I'll give you one.
I made this out of half-inch birch plywood. The material was off-cuts from a local cabinet shop, and it is true half-inch material. Most half-inch plywood is undersized. But if you use MDF these will be fine:
Baffle (x2) 21" x 11"
Rear: 21"x11"
Bottom: 21" x 8.75"
Top: 21" x 8.75
Sides (x2): 8.75"x 10"
Center Brace: 8.75"x 10"
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks. With that I know box volume. I need to make mine slightly different to fit. This will improve the WAF (Wife Acceptability Factor). WAF is the most important specification in home audio, you know.
Joe
@@Godzilla2k69 If you are using it for a home theater subs, I would not. You will want something bigger. This is good for a small 2.1 computer/desk/ bedroom speaker.
For TV in bedroom. It'll be just fine
Subbbbbed!
Awesome thanks!
P.P.P.P.P.P Prior Propper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance
It sounds fine, it is just not designed to hit those deep lows.