Great question! After all the ballasting dries, pour Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) over the points and the matte medium melts away as it drains down under the turnout. Just wick away the topside residue with a paint brush while shifting the points, and the throwbar, back and forth with lot's of IPA. Not a worry in the world once it is free and the IPA evaporates. The ballast stays in place as well and everything dries dead flat and transparent. 😁
Hi Boomer, boy am I glad I laid my track the same way you did. I just removed the winter covers on my layout and discovered a dip in the track between two opposing turnouts, meaning I would have to lift and re level. I just followed what you did in this video and viola it is now set and level once again. Thanks again for your VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEOS
Your track laying skills are so apparent in your videos. Your trains don't wobble like many other layouts. This adds to the realism of your modeling. Thanks for the video(s)
Model Track work is something that needs close attention as it does in the real world. Anyone can do it. We just need to focus in on it a little more than we do scenery , etc. :-)
Good morning, Boomer! The text in your thumbnail, "Pursuing Track Integrity" went off like a flashbulb in my brain. I'm going to edit it, though, for my permanent archive, down to "Pursuing Integrity." Simplify, simplify, simplify. Your work, your person, your intentionality, communicated to me through your videos, embodied in your model railroad diorama art, is one of the joys I look forward to, week by week. Thank you.
When I was young and had a fascination with hand launched wooden gliders, a gentleman told me about the benefits of using glue that had the same stretch, flexibility that you describe. It allowed the planes to survive the usual bumps and crashes without the glue joints failing. Thank you for reminding me of this concept which I have forgotten.
Liquitex, nice one Boomer. I'll keep my eye out for some of that matt medium. Amazing little tip re the fact that it resets once the isopropanol has dried. For me, this is "revolutionary", lol.... many thanks, you're a star.
Great video Boomer - been back in the hobby 4 years and after a rapid but conscientious bench & trackwork building period for the new layout, have been spending much time keeping the tracks running smoothly. At first I was mad (I thought I’d done it right) now I love finding and fixing, it’s very satisfying. A harbour window in the train room doesn’t help with benchwork movements, but that window is a joy in itself so it will be open whenever possible. Heard of someone painting their benchwork pine with primer to seal it before the build, that might help but too late now for me. Absolutely agree that vertical geometry is the cause of most troubles for derails and decouples - hard to detect in N scale but it’s usually the culprit. Small scale model trains have almost no suspension apart from the rocking action of the trucks, which will often cause a 3 axle truck to “put a foot off” the rails. Real trains have sprung axles plus they rely on the flex of the track and ballast for around half of the shock absorption, especially in steam days where loco driving wheels had rigid rod connections. Real trains, if the track was fixed to concrete, would bounce off the rails when they hit a bump. Stand next to a diamond and watch the rails flex under the weight of the train. It’s supposed to happen that way. Non-steam locos have more give in the springs, but even modern “trackslab” uses rubberised pads under rails. Three truths I see in your video - i) vertical geometry causes most problems, ii) rigid roadbed is not desirable (pva dries like glass) and iii) track possessions for maintenance and repair are always needed, whether for retamping at soft spots or replacing track section which have failed, it’s another part of modelling the prototype. Look forward to the next vid.
Thanks Boomer. I really hope that most of this goes to you and only a small percentage ends up with UA-cam. I already pay them a monthly subscription to watch your channel without the adds :)
I really appreciate you hitting on this subject since I would place your track work and the way your locomotives and rolling stock move accross it at the top of my list of things that impress me about your videos. I mean the attention to detail and scenic quality is top notch, but for me the realism starts with the ultra-smooth movement of the trains themselves and the lack of stuttering from the locomotives.
Awesome clinic on track maintenance Boomer... I think smooth, well maintained trackwork is important too, but I always have to put in that one siding with code 70 or 55 rail that dips and bends and has weeds growing up through the ballast.... just because, it brings me joy lol
Lots of solid advice. I personally do a lot of hand lay and hand spiking (N, HO, HOn3.5, On30 because I help my local modelers). Since my methods are a bit different and where I live a see a lot of temperature shift (+30 to -40°C) I find using rubber cement to hold my ties down has been holding up very well over the last 5 years. As for dealing with rail expansion I gap every other rail joint if possible by .010" both on my hand spiked rail segments and the times I'm forced to use flex track. It does mean I use a LOT of feeders. I do all track feeders on the bottom of the rail joiners so I don't have to worry about camouflaging them in layer scenery steps. It does mean there is a lot more work in doing feeders but in all honesty, you can never have too many, especially when you decide down the road to do detection.
A couple of questions: - when using the 50:50 matte medium, it’s diluted with 99% IPA, right? - do you use any wood ties/glue (per the Fastracks recommendation) on the turnouts? Does the IPA dissolve the glue? Thanks for sharing your amazing work and experience!
I only add a few drops of IPA to a spritzer bottle when I presoak stuff like ballast and ground cover to help break the (dry) surface tension. Right after the presoak, I soak down material with diluted matte medium. The ratio you choose to thin matte medium and water is up to you. I find the less matte medium the better in many occasions. But you will learn this with more experience. ;-)
As an angineer for a class 1 orange and black railroad, I run trains from Cicero, Illinois to LaCrosse, WI. I can tell you that when we go over a section of track at 60mph, it dang near knocks us out of our seats! I didn't this can happen on model railroads as well. Thanks for great, informative videos!!!
Layout is looking freakin great! All the relay boxes, switch stands etc... Really lifelike, paint and scenery... Btw, TY for the tutorial. Keep it up!!
Thin it down lots. It goes a long ways. In fact, try a small patch first "super thin" and go from there. You will be surprised how effective matte medium is in a diluted state.
Boomer, today's lesson is particularly important to me! As well as a home layout, I operate a display layout in an old train depot. There is no climate control out there and my track is at the point where it is almost necessary to relay a lot of the mainline. I think that I will try "the Boomer way" when I relay the mainline. Right now it is Altlas Code 83 flex nailed on cork roadbed on plywood. I will delete the nails. Most of the track is held by Woodland Scenics ballast cement which is already dilute matte medium, but I might get a bottle of "proper" matte medium and dilute it myself. Thanks for sharing your information! I appreciate all your lessons.
Dig that funky music! I got some dipsey track too. Comes and goes. Great advice if I need to attack it at some point. Speaking of lists OMG - To Do Modeling, To Do Video/Photo, To Do Operations, To Order, To Paint on and on. So grateful I never wake up in the morning and think "Nothing to do." Cheers!
Now your track looks even more realistic than it already did. Great video Boomer. Nice to see how your "madness" pays off. I want to add one thing, when people don't get the same results by using the same products and methods you use I guess they don't pay attention to the details, are in a hurry or don't accept that they have to practice to become better. I bought a bottle of matt medium and some of your other products and try to make your baby confers your way. They're not exactly your baby conifers, they mine because I made them and I like em. I know I can improve my technique but I need more time to practice. They are really simple and easy to make. Thanks.
You are so correct about the layout shrinking! My layout benchwork is at the three year point and, as I keep humidity down to 40%, my Homedepot wood has shrunk very noticeably. Fortunately I took that into account while building it and it has not created any problems. That said, I had no idea about using Liquitex for holding the ballast. Color me amazed while watching you move that switch around after just soaking it in IPA! As I have hand laid every bit of trackwork (absolutely no flextrack), I'm now wondering if I can use Liquitex as a glue for the ties (It will be wood ties against wood roadbed) so I guess I'll just have to create a test piece of track and see. The other difference is I ballast before laying the rails, so there's that. But I will be using a different ballast cement! A large bunch of thank yous for this video! You're the best!
Boomer, great advice on track maintenance. It does need to be done from time to time. Changes in humidity will be the enemy of any material, be it wood, made materials (concrete, fibre board, MDF, etc), and metal - humidity leads to rust, and that will destroy metal very fast. I love your techniques, and am using them now, BUT I don't "mix and match". Any new work, I am using your wonderful techniques, but I don't go back, and try to re-do it. I can see that the mix of paints / mediums / glues, will cause me issues. Thank you for sharing, and stay safe, Cheers, Michael
Great tips on trackwork! (And on using Liquitex matte medium.) Especially for getting smooth running on mainlines. And for industrial spur lines that don't get much maintenance, like the really wobbly one near my house, just leave them be, lol!
Love the IPA points. Another good point about using Matt medium it reduces the sound. Do find that to be the case? Sound from locos for alot is a big deal but I tend to like to run loco sounds on low vol so track sound/noise for me is important. I also use sound board instead of cork and put compressed sound board on top of risers to keep it quiet.
I am glad you brought that point up! Yes, it does reduce the sound quite a bit. Matte Medium has a soft flexible film to it which does not add the "snare drum" reverberation that other hard shell adhesives do. Cheers and thanks for sharing! ~ Boomer.
Very awesome information, I greatly appreciate it. I take information from people that have been doing things for a long time very serious. You have been there done so that future problems are not so serious and complicated. Greatly appreciated!! Awesome video!
Dear Boomer, from this beautiful video I see some very interesting maintenance of way equipment, like the track stabilizer, in the works. By the way, awesome how you stabilized the particular turnout to its appropriate level and alignment! Absolutely amazing! Cheerio
Great content Boomer. I can’t look away and I don’t even railroad LOL. The tactics definitely apply to military dioramas so I am learning so much. Also living across the river from the ferry terminal and knowing the Overpass area, I can see how well you recreate the feel of it. So well done and lifelike.
I used to love building military dioramas when I was younger. The kits were not that great though. The kits that I see now-a-days are awesome. I hope you are having fun with it. CHeers ~ Boomer.
Good video for the hobby to have. I have just completed a similar repair to my layout caused by the weather where my wood risers developed a a small dip (about a 1mm) with the humidity fluctuations here in Ontario this summer.
I spent the first couple years doing MOW on the short line here at home. Was the tamper operator before going back to train service. To say the least I'm a bit anal retentive on track , not only detail but quality wise as well. I love this process because it " feeds the need" in my miniature world in scope and practice. Don't mind playing section hand in scale either, it's much easier than 1:1 scale!
Excellent advice. I am in the tropics so even hotter and more humid than lower mainland. Looking forward to getting out of the armchair and into building mode. One more move scheduled for mid-October then I will be out of excuses. LOL
Video timing is impeccable😅 After 230+ videos on my roller-coaster. I got a broken Code 83 curved switch. A Code 83 rerailer that's a derailed 3 Code 100 mainlines that have "spots"🙄 Start of Model RR Season is trackwork. Keep up the good work, Boomer. Doing laps so you don't have too🚂🇨🇦
I found it on the side of the road. Commercial Landscape Companies should have it. No mashing needed. Just washing and sifting. Easy to do under the porch or whatever. Cheers.
So so true Boomer !!! Nothing more frustrating than poor track work. It’ll take the enthusiasm and enjoyment right out of you. My early layouts were plagued with glitchy #4 & #6 turnouts, too small of radius, misaligned joints, and on and on .
Excellent repair! I immediately thought of my expansion-contraction issues with wood/humidity/temperature. I have begun to work with HDPE, which is becoming more widely available and think perhaps a 1/4" sheet on top of wood might work. I am not sure how cork would be secured. There are cements for it and I think it would hold a nail well. I may try it in the future as it cuts like easily like wood.
I currently use Copydex to hold track down. Smells a bit fishy when in liquid form but that goes away. It really sucks the track down but is flexible and you can still prize the track up again. Great video as always 👍🏻
What is your opinion on DAP brown chauking, i love it as you can lift up easy, it gives you working time, essay to spread, If you pick up a section of track, its easy to roll of the actual track.
Having a stable humidity reading in the train room eliminates most of that problem. I operated on a large layout in the St Louis MO area for 10 years. Wood bench work, track on plywood and cork. The layout was in a basement. The climate here is hot summers with high humidity and cold and dry winters. There was both a humidifier and a dehumidifier in the basement along with a thermometer/humidity readout just for the basement. Hot water heat in the winter and central air that didn't vent into the basement. Charlie strove to keep the temperature and humidity the same all year round. In the 10 years I operated there every week I can only remember repairing a problem from expansion/contraction twice. There was probably 5 scale miles of track on that basement filling layout. I have a spot in the three track yard at the freight house I need to repair on my module. It's flextrack glued to foam with silicon caulk. I will try your method on the next track I lay. Thanks for the tips. I can't thank you enough for all I've learned since I found your channel.
My situation is similar to yours. Although, I do open a window (right under that spot) and the humidity was over 90% this summer. I am also surprised how stable the whole layout is despite this one section. Thanks for taking the time to share about your layout as well. I appreciate it. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Many thx Boomer. As you know, my railroad is being professionally built however to the extent I can follow your processes going forward I most certainly will eg I specifically asked the builder to use Baltic Birch and have gallons of Matt Medium on standby for the scenery lol.
I believe Peter is already using good quality Birch plywood. I follow the build as well and he is professional about everything he does. You are fortunate to have him while he still has the energy to build such remarkable layouts. Every layout will move when they settle in. When they do you just tweak them back into shape and they are good to go. ;-)
Hi Boomer. Great Video. So what do you do to clean off the track once the matte medium dries? Do you use bright boys, sandpaper or some sort of liquid solution? I'm in the process of restoring my layout and would love to learn what you do and WHY you do it that way. Thanks.
I usually use an old sock over my finger (dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol) which strips the acrylic off easily after each application. This is why I also use Tamiya paint for terrain because it is compatible with matte medium and lifts easily off the rails with IPA. I also use a bright boy as well where it may be stubborn. Then I just maintain it by using a piece of wood, like a bamboo skewer (filed down on the end) to run atop the rail. The one thing I find that works the best is vacuuming my layout every few weeks. Because all the terrain is sealed in matte medium (through a mist bottle heavily diluted with water & matte medium) it can handle the brush and vacuum with no problems when it dries. I soak my terrain down with diluted matted medium as I add layers and it dries completely flat and rigid. If I want to soften it, I pour IPA over it and it loosens up. When it dries it dries to the same state and is almost bullet proof.
Thinking of applying your method to N scale track. Do you lay your track on plain cork sheet, or cut out the cork roadbed to suit? I guess about half the thickness cork for N? What are you sticking the cork down with?
hallo Boomer the reason way the plywood bend down is that the air moisture only can go into the plywood from on side (underneath ) and these side will expand. Close the plywood (layout) from underneath with paint so the lumber is closed from both sides and will not bend anymore . greatings from Germany Walter
Thanks for the information. The model railroad club I belong to has started using silicone caulk to glue the rails down. I wonder what the pros and cons of using silicone caulk are compared to using the matte medium. Silicone certainly is cheaper.
Not sure but it probably works fine for an adhesive. I can't stand the silicon odor though. Matte medium is non-toxic and odorless and runs double duty as a ballast fixer as well. You can't glue ballast with silicone. As you grow older you also grow tired of stinky mediums . . . lol.
Hi Boomer - where do you source the limestone for the ballast (I think I heard you say you use limestone)? It looks way better than the crushed walnut shells or whatever they use for the commercial ballast. Best regards Peter
You can get crushed Limestone from any Landscape supply companies. I wash and sift mine through flour sifters and dry it out. It also takes paint well when it is sealed with matte medium.
I see it, but real track does that as well. I don't know that it would bother me much. I wonder if the changes in the weather would return it to where it was later on?
You raise a good point and it might, but experience tells me it won't. On the other hand, I already have bumpy track (in the weds) like you mention because I modeled it intentionally that way. This section I repaired needs to be smooth for my six axle locomotives. Especially when I serve the Ferry and the Barge Slip. Cheers.😁
Proof is in the pudding as they say( or in the matte medium ) .My layout is on foam then Midwest cork some directly on the foam 3/8 ply structure I’m in NC USA layout only 1 year old total of 40’ notice my swing up bridge clearance in the walk through tightens in the humidity curious what the future will bring using the liquitex for ballast .Thanks!
The only way to control benchwork movement is over time in a climate controlled room. Even then, they still move a little here and there which is why I avoid them. I have heard of people solving the problem with aluminum right angle frames, etc. Swing bridges almost always go out of alignment anyway if they are tied to wood frame work.
Sorry you had bench work issues. Going back to do maintenance is never as much fun as the initial build. However, it gave you the opportunity to share a proof of concept.
Hi Boomer great flog , its good to do a review as I tend to forget since I haven't built a new lay out in a long time. Question ,after laying the ballast down do you use 50%Liquitex50% water or was it 50%Liquitex 50%Isoprop , I also seal the timber top with undercoat sealer to try and prevent any moisture getting in , my father gave me the tip on that one . Since moving into the new digs our humidity levels are only around 25-35% it nice and comfortable and everything drys off quicker , especially the washing LOL much to my wife's relief . Thanks for the great tips came at just the right time Shaun
You pointed out that you don't use foam as a part of your subroadbed. Are you aware of any increased or decreased risk of using foam on top of plywood in terms of expansion or contraction? I've used 1/2" to 2" thick extruded foam (the pink stuff) 1/2" to 2" on my entire layout, both to help "smooth over" semi-shoddy benchwork construction, but also to make it easier to do subroadbed level scenery work, like rivers, ditches, ponds, etc. Would you share any concerns in your opinion on what I need to look out for? Thanks! Love your channel and awesome instruction/explanation!
If things are good there is no need to worry. Wait until it happens if it does. I use pink foam along the right-of-way. Except my sub-roadbed is plywood (which I cut with a jigsaw initially. Foam will warp and move over time but there is no telling where, until the day comes where you notice it. At the end of the day, you can only reduce the inevitable and hope it doesn't affect things much. Some of my foam scenery parts have moved a little but you can't see it really and you can hide unsightly seams with additional scenery elements. Cheers.
It was medium CA if you can believe it. I made sure the bottom of the rail was roughed up with a file (or emery cloth) for a good mechanical bond to the plastic textured tie. I only CA'd the PC board ties to the cork. The plastic ties are only glued to the rail, so when the matte medium softens the ballast, the ties stay fixed mostly to the rail.
@@boomerdiorama great bit of knowledge, I have struggled with how to approach the ties for turn outs. Do you do them individually, or use mat medium on the paper template and do them all at once?
I don't really have to solder the track connectors because every turnout and section of track has redundant feeders attached anyway. Technically, every section of track is it's own isolated block wired into the bus under the layout. This way I can isolate a section (especially turnouts) when and if I need to troubleshoot, and wire in sensors for signals etc. Having said this, there are circumstances where I will solder a short piece of track to another on occasion. It all depends on other factors involved.
Boomer ,For me in the states IPA is only available in 91% alcohol at most stores. I found 99% IPA by mistake while giving my daughter a lift to her beauty supply store. She needs my truck when she picks up her order for her hair salon, so I go in and buy emery boards on foam and they have real nice small scissors and tweezers. I was looking at a ultrasonic cleaner and next to it were these big bottles of alcohol ,so I started getting it there. Now here in Omaha you have to be a member to this supply house but if people look around or ask real nicely I am sure they would sell a few bottles every now and then.
@@boomerdioramaIs there any specific reason why you prefer liquidtex over Golden ? How they compare each other in terms of railway model making? Thank you.
Hi! Was it neccesary to pull it up for some reason (contact fe)? Because I actually like the look of the rocking loco and cars on those track differences in the example clip! But not if it caused operation problems of course 🥰
In 2010, there was an earthquake in Chile, measuring 8.8 on the Richter scale, which significantly damaged my house and, in the case of my layout, had terrible consequences with significant losses. As a result of uneven ground and buildings, the track, which was perfectly level and allowed trains to circulate, suffered subsidence of between 1 and 2 inches in short sections, causing cars to persistently become uncoupled. By adjusting the height of the bench legs, I managed to improve the problem a little, but then I had to do a better levelling, which meant clearing the track from the sub-base. And it was useful that in this country the things that are manufactured are of poor quality, because when I soaked the tracks with alcohol, the white wood adhesive gave way and I was unable to make something similar to what you are doing. Unfortunately, when my computer was stolen, I lost the photos of the effects of the earthquake on the trains, which I would have liked to show you.
The area you live in has got to be bad for model railways. Humidity and very dry months. I am fortunate to have a temperature stable room in a dry area of Colorado. I rarely see humidity over 40%. It is usually around 15-30%. I had some problems with sag on an earlier layout where I used cheap home store plywood. It dipped a 1/4 inch and had to be shored up with more framing from underneath. Yikes. Rob
The humidity here this summer for about a few months was 90%. I am surprised the layout did not deflect more than it did. I guess this speaks for the quality of "Baltic" Birch I used as well. ;-)
So are you saying that all of the turnouts on your layout ONLY use pc board ties? I thought that you CA’d wooden ties to the rail for the ones that weren’t soldered PC, and the PC had styrene to boost their height. Am I mistaken?
wonder if there was a pink foam seam/joint shrinkage underneath the dip location??? I have seen where pink foam shrinks along cut edges seams etc...or maybe there is a sink hole due to culvert erosion 🤣🙂
Of course it is but not in this area. This particular trackage is the lead for both ends of the layout. It will see a lot of action. I have other sidings and spurs that are bumpy and undulating already on the layout. This track needs to be smooth as it serves the Barge Slip, Interchange, and the coming Ferry ops. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama have you had derailments with any power there? You figured the delta worked out to what 12 scale inches? What’s the correlation between “the Barge slip”…. the others and smoothness as opposed to the sidings? I forget, what code is this track, and are the sidings different weight? Thanks…
When the matte medium dries I just soak the throw bar and points down with straight IPA (to dilute the glue more) and wiggle them loose a few times and all is good. ;-)
Hello Boomer. Your site is AWESOME! i Want to build a large warehouse like the one you built. What is the Evergreen plastic sheet number that you used for the outside of the building? Thanks
Yeh but Boomer isnt a "dip" or a "hump" prototypical ? modern railways aren't perfectly flat so why do we as modellers insist on "perfect" trackwork ? BTW ive watched every episode on your channel 👍 have you any space to incorporate your previous layout onto River Road ?
Great Questions. I agree with you. Some of my track is not perfect and it runs great that way and I plan to leave it as such. However, the "dip" and the "hump" in this particular section (mainline interchange) was causing issues with six-axle locomotives and lower snow plows. This would have a negative effect on thee Barge Slip operations in terms of reliable switching. The previous layout (Glover Road) can be incorporated in if I want it to. However, (section three) is reserved for Glover Road 2.0. I always had plans to remodel Milner and Crush Crescent. There were 'operational' issues on the previous shelf payout that did not work out in terms of track plan, according to how I want to model the prototype concerning the Milner Grain Elevator and the intersection there. I also need to re-imagine the end of section three for further expansion beyond the intersection known as "Crush Crescent." RIght now the total length of the layout is 26 feet but I plan to extend that down the road. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
I use a piece of wood personally. Sometimes I use the end of a Bamboo Skewer (sanded flat) and just rub it down the top of the rail as it forms a notch in the ned on it's own. When I remove paint, I use an old sock over my finger dipped in IPA, then rub it down with a piece of hardwood.
In case you're wondering(you probably already know but for your viewers), the 'track stablizer' is actually cslled a TAMPER. The tamper and it's side kick or should I say accomplice, the regulator are evey Signal maintainer's nemsis and I speak from experiance! 😂
Boomer, nicely done. I have a unsolved mystery with my list of things to do. As fast as I remove an item from the top of the list and start thinking to myself I'll soon get this lot knocked off. I turn around only to find the list is growing again, new items seemed to have been added to the bottom of the list? So I better go and get stuck in again. Cheers, Chris Perry.
How do you prevent the turnout to get stuck because of the mattmedium?
Great question!
After all the ballasting dries, pour Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) over the points and the matte medium melts away as it drains down under the turnout. Just wick away the topside residue with a paint brush while shifting the points, and the throwbar, back and forth with lot's of IPA. Not a worry in the world once it is free and the IPA evaporates. The ballast stays in place as well and everything dries dead flat and transparent. 😁
Hi Boomer, boy am I glad I laid my track the same way you did. I just removed the winter covers on my layout and discovered a dip in the track between two opposing turnouts, meaning I would have to lift and re level. I just followed what you did in this video and viola it is now set and level once again. Thanks again for your VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEOS
Sounds great! Thanks for sharing that as well. Cheers!
Great looking ballast work and coloring!....so cool!....Fantastic job Boomer!..🍺
Ballasting can be a very satisfying part of railroad modeling. Cheers!
Your track laying skills are so apparent in your videos. Your trains don't wobble like many other layouts. This adds to the realism of your modeling. Thanks for the video(s)
Model Track work is something that needs close attention as it does in the real world. Anyone can do it. We just need to focus in on it a little more than we do scenery , etc. :-)
Good morning, Boomer! The text in your thumbnail, "Pursuing Track Integrity" went off like a flashbulb in my brain. I'm going to edit it, though, for my permanent archive, down to "Pursuing Integrity." Simplify, simplify, simplify. Your work, your person, your intentionality, communicated to me through your videos, embodied in your model railroad diorama art, is one of the joys I look forward to, week by week. Thank you.
Thank you Chris. Cheers!
When I was young and had a fascination with hand launched wooden gliders, a gentleman told me about the benefits of using glue that had the same stretch, flexibility that you describe. It allowed the planes to survive the usual bumps and crashes without the glue joints failing. Thank you for reminding me of this concept which I have forgotten.
It also helps to build those gliders extremely light as possible. The less kinetic energy due to excess weight, the less damage on landing, etc. ;-)
Liquitex, nice one Boomer. I'll keep my eye out for some of that matt medium. Amazing little tip re the fact that it resets once the isopropanol has dried. For me, this is "revolutionary", lol.... many thanks, you're a star.
Thanks!
Great video Boomer - been back in the hobby 4 years and after a rapid but conscientious bench & trackwork building period for the new layout, have been spending much time keeping the tracks running smoothly. At first I was mad (I thought I’d done it right) now I love finding and fixing, it’s very satisfying. A harbour window in the train room doesn’t help with benchwork movements, but that window is a joy in itself so it will be open whenever possible. Heard of someone painting their benchwork pine with primer to seal it before the build, that might help but too late now for me.
Absolutely agree that vertical geometry is the cause of most troubles for derails and decouples - hard to detect in N scale but it’s usually the culprit.
Small scale model trains have almost no suspension apart from the rocking action of the trucks, which will often cause a 3 axle truck to “put a foot off” the rails. Real trains have sprung axles plus they rely on the flex of the track and ballast for around half of the shock absorption, especially in steam days where loco driving wheels had rigid rod connections. Real trains, if the track was fixed to concrete, would bounce off the rails when they hit a bump. Stand next to a diamond and watch the rails flex under the weight of the train. It’s supposed to happen that way. Non-steam locos have more give in the springs, but even modern “trackslab” uses rubberised pads under rails.
Three truths I see in your video - i) vertical geometry causes most problems, ii) rigid roadbed is not desirable (pva dries like glass) and iii) track possessions for maintenance and repair are always needed, whether for retamping at soft spots or replacing track section which have failed, it’s another part of modelling the prototype.
Look forward to the next vid.
Funny you mention window. There is a window right underneath the section where the movement occured. ;-)
Truly aspire to have my industrial park layout as close to your quality as possible when I’m done. Your layout is an inspiration
Just take your time with it. Build your story around it and make it your best effort as if you were to live on it . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks Boomer. I really hope that most of this goes to you and only a small percentage ends up with UA-cam. I already pay them a monthly subscription to watch your channel without the adds :)
Thank you Peter. I appreciate your contribution and gracious support to the channel. I do get most of it.
Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama cheers Boomer
Your doing it the right way for painting and track work that’s the experience people will get to that level in time
Many are painting their track now which is nice to see. Makes the layout look more realistic.
Wow, this is some really useful info. I am prepping to build a small shelf layout, and all these tips will be utilized. Great call on all acrylics.
Good luck with your shelf layout! Let me know how it goes.
I really appreciate you hitting on this subject since I would place your track work and the way your locomotives and rolling stock move accross it at the top of my list of things that impress me about your videos. I mean the attention to detail and scenic quality is top notch, but for me the realism starts with the ultra-smooth movement of the trains themselves and the lack of stuttering from the locomotives.
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome clinic on track maintenance Boomer... I think smooth, well maintained trackwork is important too, but I always have to put in that one siding with code 70 or 55 rail that dips and bends and has weeds growing up through the ballast.... just because, it brings me joy lol
3:49
L
I have a Code 40 siding there where my 4-axle locomotives run as well . . . ;-)
Lots of solid advice. I personally do a lot of hand lay and hand spiking (N, HO, HOn3.5, On30 because I help my local modelers). Since my methods are a bit different and where I live a see a lot of temperature shift (+30 to -40°C) I find using rubber cement to hold my ties down has been holding up very well over the last 5 years. As for dealing with rail expansion I gap every other rail joint if possible by .010" both on my hand spiked rail segments and the times I'm forced to use flex track. It does mean I use a LOT of feeders. I do all track feeders on the bottom of the rail joiners so I don't have to worry about camouflaging them in layer scenery steps. It does mean there is a lot more work in doing feeders but in all honesty, you can never have too many, especially when you decide down the road to do detection.
Sounds good. I find hand laying track to kind of addictive.😉
@boomerdiorama I know, I wish I had started hand laying and hand spiking a long time ago. Once you get the feel for it, you can't stop.
Thanks!
Thank you!
A couple of questions:
- when using the 50:50 matte medium, it’s diluted with 99% IPA, right?
- do you use any wood ties/glue (per the Fastracks recommendation) on the turnouts? Does the IPA dissolve the glue?
Thanks for sharing your amazing work and experience!
Checked out another of your vids. Water, no IPA! Gotcha.
I only add a few drops of IPA to a spritzer bottle when I presoak stuff like ballast and ground cover to help break the (dry) surface tension. Right after the presoak, I soak down material with diluted matte medium. The ratio you choose to thin matte medium and water is up to you. I find the less matte medium the better in many occasions. But you will learn this with more experience. ;-)
As an angineer for a class 1 orange and black railroad, I run trains from Cicero, Illinois to LaCrosse, WI. I can tell you that when we go over a section of track at 60mph, it dang near knocks us out of our seats! I didn't this can happen on model railroads as well. Thanks for great, informative videos!!!
Thanks for sharing that. I had no problem with four axle locomotives. It was the six axles that gave me trouble. Cheers!
Layout is looking freakin great! All the relay boxes, switch stands etc... Really lifelike, paint and scenery...
Btw, TY for the tutorial. Keep it up!!
Awesome, thank you!
Howdy Boomer! Another tool for the toolbox. Excellent breakdown of track maintenance and what causes the need for it. Well done! Thanks for sharing 🤠
Cheers!
That track and scene looks so real i can almost smell the creosote from the track ties!
. . . or the diesel . . . lol.
Another great tutorial thanks Boomer. I finally tracked down my first bottle of Matt Medium. Thanks Peter from downunder
Thin it down lots. It goes a long ways. In fact, try a small patch first "super thin" and go from there. You will be surprised how effective matte medium is in a diluted state.
@@boomerdiorama . Will try that. Thanks again.
Boomer, today's lesson is particularly important to me! As well as a home layout, I operate a display layout in an old train depot. There is no climate control out there and my track is at the point where it is almost necessary to relay a lot of the mainline. I think that I will try "the Boomer way" when I relay the mainline. Right now it is Altlas Code 83 flex nailed on cork roadbed on plywood. I will delete the nails. Most of the track is held by Woodland Scenics ballast cement which is already dilute matte medium, but I might get a bottle of "proper" matte medium and dilute it myself. Thanks for sharing your information! I appreciate all your lessons.
Atlas Code 83 is very good track. Very reliable as well.
Dig that funky music! I got some dipsey track too. Comes and goes. Great advice if I need to attack it at some point. Speaking of lists OMG - To Do Modeling, To Do Video/Photo, To Do Operations, To Order, To Paint on and on. So grateful I never wake up in the morning and think "Nothing to do." Cheers!
You stretch any layout to any amount of time when you think about it. ;-)
Your attention to detail if wonderful. Cut outs and arrestors on xfmr banks. 👍
Thank you for noticing! I am always looking for ways to improve the realism of my layout.
Now your track looks even more realistic than it already did. Great video Boomer. Nice to see how your "madness" pays off. I want to add one thing, when people don't get the same results by using the same products and methods you use I guess they don't pay attention to the details, are in a hurry or don't accept that they have to practice to become better. I bought a bottle of matt medium and some of your other products and try to make your baby confers your way. They're not exactly your baby conifers, they mine because I made them and I like em. I know I can improve my technique but I need more time to practice. They are really simple and easy to make. Thanks.
Once you get the first few layers of static grass started on the stem things start to go well. ;-)
You are so correct about the layout shrinking! My layout benchwork is at the three year point and, as I keep humidity down to 40%, my Homedepot wood has shrunk very noticeably. Fortunately I took that into account while building it and it has not created any problems. That said, I had no idea about using Liquitex for holding the ballast. Color me amazed while watching you move that switch around after just soaking it in IPA! As I have hand laid every bit of trackwork (absolutely no flextrack), I'm now wondering if I can use Liquitex as a glue for the ties (It will be wood ties against wood roadbed) so I guess I'll just have to create a test piece of track and see. The other difference is I ballast before laying the rails, so there's that. But I will be using a different ballast cement! A large bunch of thank yous for this video! You're the best!
The beauty of hand laid track is you can ballast things to perfection before laying down the rail. I do this mostly in O Scale, but any scale works.
Boomer, great advice on track maintenance. It does need to be done from time to time.
Changes in humidity will be the enemy of any material, be it wood, made materials (concrete, fibre board, MDF, etc), and metal - humidity leads to rust, and that will destroy metal very fast.
I love your techniques, and am using them now, BUT I don't "mix and match". Any new work, I am using your wonderful techniques, but I don't go back, and try to re-do it. I can see that the mix of paints / mediums / glues, will cause me issues.
Thank you for sharing, and stay safe, Cheers, Michael
Acrylics and enamel solvents can cause all kinds of issues. Unfortunately we often find that out the hard way. ;-)
Great tips on trackwork! (And on using Liquitex matte medium.) Especially for getting smooth running on mainlines.
And for industrial spur lines that don't get much maintenance, like the really wobbly one near my house, just leave them be, lol!
Yes indeed. I have a fully functional "wobbly" spur which I love. It also works well with my four-axle locomotives @ Code 40 rail. ;-)
Love the IPA points. Another good point about using Matt medium it reduces the sound. Do find that to be the case?
Sound from locos for alot is a big deal but I tend to like to run loco sounds on low vol so track sound/noise for me is important. I also use sound board instead of cork and put compressed sound board on top of risers to keep it quiet.
I am glad you brought that point up! Yes, it does reduce the sound quite a bit. Matte Medium has a soft flexible film to it which does not add the "snare drum" reverberation that other hard shell adhesives do. Cheers and thanks for sharing! ~ Boomer.
Perfect timing, things to look for fall settling in. Thanks again!
Perfect!
Very awesome information, I greatly appreciate it. I take information from people that have been doing things for a long time very serious. You have been there done so that future problems are not so serious and complicated. Greatly appreciated!! Awesome video!
Glad it was helpful!
Dear Boomer, from this beautiful video I see some very interesting maintenance of way equipment, like the track stabilizer, in the works. By the way, awesome how you stabilized the particular turnout to its appropriate level and alignment! Absolutely amazing! Cheerio
It made a big difference for operation's. ;-)
Great video Boomer. I never thought of matte medium for track will try it on my next section THX
Saves many headaches concerning turnouts as well. Very easy to free points when they become glued after ballasting.
Nice repair work! You need to hire that MOW crew full time!
I wish!
Great content Boomer. I can’t look away and I don’t even railroad LOL. The tactics definitely apply to military dioramas so I am learning so much. Also living across the river from the ferry terminal and knowing the Overpass area, I can see how well you recreate the feel of it. So well done and lifelike.
I used to love building military dioramas when I was younger. The kits were not that great though. The kits that I see now-a-days are awesome. I hope you are having fun with it. CHeers ~ Boomer.
Good video for the hobby to have. I have just completed a similar repair to my layout caused by the weather where my wood risers developed a a small dip (about a 1mm) with the humidity fluctuations here in Ontario this summer.
Hopefully thee benchwork is settled. ;-)
A true commercial for the channel
Thank you!
I spent the first couple years doing MOW on the short line here at home. Was the tamper operator before going back to train service. To say the least I'm a bit anal retentive on track , not only detail but quality wise as well. I love this process because it " feeds the need" in my miniature world in scope and practice.
Don't mind playing section hand in scale either, it's much easier than 1:1 scale!
A short section of track that runs well is better than a long one that won't. ;-)
Excellent advice. I am in the tropics so even hotter and more humid than lower mainland. Looking forward to getting out of the armchair and into building mode. One more move scheduled for mid-October then I will be out of excuses. LOL
The least amount of wood you use the better I think. ;-)
Very nice detailed work.
Thank you very much!
Thanks Boomer. I love having you explain the science behind your madness! Great video!
Glad you enjoy it!
Video timing is impeccable😅 After 230+ videos on my roller-coaster. I got a broken Code 83 curved switch. A Code 83 rerailer that's a derailed 3 Code 100 mainlines that have "spots"🙄 Start of Model RR Season is trackwork. Keep up the good work, Boomer. Doing laps so you don't have too🚂🇨🇦
Sounds great!
Where do you find the limestone? Do you mash it down before you sift it?
I found it on the side of the road. Commercial Landscape Companies should have it. No mashing needed. Just washing and sifting. Easy to do under the porch or whatever. Cheers.
So so true Boomer !!! Nothing more frustrating than poor track work. It’ll take the enthusiasm and enjoyment right out of you. My early layouts were plagued with glitchy #4 & #6 turnouts, too small of radius, misaligned joints, and on and on .
Absolutely!!
Excellent repair! I immediately thought of my expansion-contraction issues with wood/humidity/temperature. I have begun to work with HDPE, which is becoming more widely available and think perhaps a 1/4" sheet on top of wood might work. I am not sure how cork would be secured. There are cements for it and I think it would hold a nail well. I may try it in the future as it cuts like easily like wood.
Great point!
Hi Boomer Diorama & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Boomer Diorama & Friends Randy
👍
I currently use Copydex to hold track down. Smells a bit fishy when in liquid form but that goes away. It really sucks the track down but is flexible and you can still prize the track up again. Great video as always 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing!
What is your opinion on DAP brown chauking, i love it as you can lift up easy, it gives you working time, essay to spread, If you pick up a section of track, its easy to roll of the actual track.
I don't use it personally. Thanks for sharing. Cheers. ;-)
Having a stable humidity reading in the train room eliminates most of that problem. I operated on a large layout in the St Louis MO area for 10 years. Wood bench work, track on plywood and cork. The layout was in a basement. The climate here is hot summers with high humidity and cold and dry winters. There was both a humidifier and a dehumidifier in the basement along with a thermometer/humidity readout just for the basement. Hot water heat in the winter and central air that didn't vent into the basement. Charlie strove to keep the temperature and humidity the same all year round. In the 10 years I operated there every week I can only remember repairing a problem from expansion/contraction twice. There was probably 5 scale miles of track on that basement filling layout. I have a spot in the three track yard at the freight house I need to repair on my module. It's flextrack glued to foam with silicon caulk. I will try your method on the next track I lay. Thanks for the tips. I can't thank you enough for all I've learned since I found your channel.
My situation is similar to yours. Although, I do open a window (right under that spot) and the humidity was over 90% this summer. I am also surprised how stable the whole layout is despite this one section. Thanks for taking the time to share about your layout as well. I appreciate it. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Many thx Boomer. As you know, my railroad is being professionally built however to the extent I can follow your processes going forward I most certainly will eg I specifically asked the builder to use Baltic Birch and have gallons of Matt Medium on standby for the scenery lol.
I believe Peter is already using good quality Birch plywood. I follow the build as well and he is professional about everything he does. You are fortunate to have him while he still has the energy to build such remarkable layouts. Every layout will move when they settle in. When they do you just tweak them back into shape and they are good to go. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama absolutely Boomer
Hi Boomer. Great Video. So what do you do to clean off the track once the matte medium dries? Do you use bright boys, sandpaper or some sort of liquid solution? I'm in the process of restoring my layout and would love to learn what you do and WHY you do it that way. Thanks.
I usually use an old sock over my finger (dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol) which strips the acrylic off easily after each application. This is why I also use Tamiya paint for terrain because it is compatible with matte medium and lifts easily off the rails with IPA.
I also use a bright boy as well where it may be stubborn. Then I just maintain it by using a piece of wood, like a bamboo skewer (filed down on the end) to run atop the rail. The one thing I find that works the best is vacuuming my layout every few weeks.
Because all the terrain is sealed in matte medium (through a mist bottle heavily diluted with water & matte medium) it can handle the brush and vacuum with no problems when it dries. I soak my terrain down with diluted matted medium as I add layers and it dries completely flat and rigid. If I want to soften it, I pour IPA over it and it loosens up. When it dries it dries to the same state and is almost bullet proof.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks!
Thinking of applying your method to N scale track.
Do you lay your track on plain cork sheet, or cut out the cork roadbed to suit?
I guess about half the thickness cork for N?
What are you sticking the cork down with?
I use 1/4" cork sheet and glue it down with good quality carpenter (wood) glue. I lay the track on plain cork before ballast.
Could a decoupling membrane be of use like they use when tiling
I guess so. I mean anything is possible. ;-)
hallo Boomer the reason way the plywood bend down is that the air moisture only can go into the plywood from on side (underneath ) and these side will expand. Close the plywood (layout) from underneath with paint so the lumber is closed from both sides and will not bend anymore . greatings from Germany Walter
O.K. Thank you!
Thanks for the information. The model railroad club I belong to has started using silicone caulk to glue the rails down. I wonder what the pros and cons of using silicone caulk are compared to using the matte medium. Silicone certainly is cheaper.
Not sure but it probably works fine for an adhesive. I can't stand the silicon odor though. Matte medium is non-toxic and odorless and runs double duty as a ballast fixer as well. You can't glue ballast with silicone. As you grow older you also grow tired of stinky mediums . . . lol.
Cool runnings ! Cheers
Cheers!
I sand the track bed before laying track with a long (8"+) block to remove any bumps to make sure it is really flat.
Yes indeed!
Hi Boomer - where do you source the limestone for the ballast (I think I heard you say you use limestone)? It looks way better than the crushed walnut shells or whatever they use for the commercial ballast. Best regards Peter
You can get crushed Limestone from any Landscape supply companies. I wash and sift mine through flour sifters and dry it out. It also takes paint well when it is sealed with matte medium.
@@boomerdiorama great. Thx again Boomer!
I see it, but real track does that as well. I don't know that it would bother me much. I wonder if the changes in the weather would return it to where it was later on?
You raise a good point and it might, but experience tells me it won't. On the other hand, I already have bumpy track (in the weds) like you mention because I modeled it intentionally that way. This section I repaired needs to be smooth for my six axle locomotives. Especially when I serve the Ferry and the Barge Slip.
Cheers.😁
Proof is in the pudding as they say( or in the matte medium ) .My layout is on foam then Midwest cork some directly on the foam 3/8 ply structure I’m in NC USA layout only 1 year old total of 40’ notice my swing up bridge clearance in the walk through tightens in the humidity curious what the future will bring using the liquitex for ballast .Thanks!
The only way to control benchwork movement is over time in a climate controlled room. Even then, they still move a little here and there which is why I avoid them. I have heard of people solving the problem with aluminum right angle frames, etc. Swing bridges almost always go out of alignment anyway if they are tied to wood frame work.
@@boomerdiorama 👍I’m in a climate controlled room so far so good no derailments and bridge operates .
Sorry you had bench work issues. Going back to do maintenance is never as much fun as the initial build. However, it gave you the opportunity to share a proof of concept.
Things could have been worse. Often times this can cause one to revisit areas that need attention as well. ;-)
always impressed with your methods
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi Boomer, Great video! You mention using a flow aid in the water that you dilute the matt medium with. What do you use as a flow aid? How much?
Golden products makes a good flow aid. One bottle should last ten years. It's Called Golden - Wetting Aid # 3591-4/Ser4
Thanks Boomer
Hi Boomer great flog , its good to do a review as I tend to forget since I haven't built a new lay out in a long time.
Question ,after laying the ballast down do you use 50%Liquitex50% water or was it 50%Liquitex 50%Isoprop ,
I also seal the timber top with undercoat sealer to try and prevent any moisture getting in , my father gave me the tip on that one .
Since moving into the new digs our humidity levels are only around 25-35% it nice and comfortable and everything drys off quicker , especially the washing LOL much to my wife's relief .
Thanks for the great tips came at just the right time
Shaun
I use water to thin "acrylic" liquitex mediums.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks Boomer for that , now all I have to do is make my mind up what kind of lay out design I want ,easy hay ???? lol
🇧🇷🚂
Fantástico, excelente trabalho!
Obrigado por compartilhar!
Cheers!
A lesson in track chiropracty. Thanks.
. . . like my lower back . . . lol.
I see the genius of your Madness.
Lol . . . maybe it's just me set in my ways . . . ;-)
You pointed out that you don't use foam as a part of your subroadbed. Are you aware of any increased or decreased risk of using foam on top of plywood in terms of expansion or contraction? I've used 1/2" to 2" thick extruded foam (the pink stuff) 1/2" to 2" on my entire layout, both to help "smooth over" semi-shoddy benchwork construction, but also to make it easier to do subroadbed level scenery work, like rivers, ditches, ponds, etc. Would you share any concerns in your opinion on what I need to look out for? Thanks! Love your channel and awesome instruction/explanation!
If things are good there is no need to worry. Wait until it happens if it does.
I use pink foam along the right-of-way. Except my sub-roadbed is plywood (which I cut with a jigsaw initially. Foam will warp and move over time but there is no telling where, until the day comes where you notice it.
At the end of the day, you can only reduce the inevitable and hope it doesn't affect things much. Some of my foam scenery parts have moved a little but you can't see it really and you can hide unsightly seams with additional scenery elements. Cheers.
What adhesive do you use to glue your non-PCB ties to the turnout? It didn't look like any of them popped off bottom of the rail.
It was medium CA if you can believe it. I made sure the bottom of the rail was roughed up with a file (or emery cloth) for a good mechanical bond to the plastic textured tie. I only CA'd the PC board ties to the cork. The plastic ties are only glued to the rail, so when the matte medium softens the ballast, the ties stay fixed mostly to the rail.
@@boomerdiorama great bit of knowledge, I have struggled with how to approach the ties for turn outs. Do you do them individually, or use mat medium on the paper template and do them all at once?
I noticed that you didn't solder the track connectors, is there places that you do solder
or are you opposed to that method?
I don't really have to solder the track connectors because every turnout and section of track has redundant feeders attached anyway. Technically, every section of track is it's own isolated block wired into the bus under the layout.
This way I can isolate a section (especially turnouts) when and if I need to troubleshoot, and wire in sensors for signals etc. Having said this, there are circumstances where I will solder a short piece of track to another on occasion. It all depends on other factors involved.
@@boomerdiorama
oowee that's a lot of wiring ,but makes sense if you need to remove a section of track for some reason.
Thanx for the reply.
Boomer ,For me in the states IPA is only available in 91% alcohol at most stores. I found 99% IPA by mistake while giving my daughter a lift to her beauty supply store. She needs my truck when she picks up her order for her hair salon, so I go in and buy emery boards on foam and they have real nice small scissors and tweezers. I was looking at a ultrasonic cleaner and next to it were these big bottles of alcohol ,so I started getting it there. Now here in Omaha you have to be a member to this supply house but if people look around or ask real nicely I am sure they would sell a few bottles every now and then.
I use IPA in whatever strength I can find from 50% to 99%. It all works pretty much the same.
Looking awsome boomer!!!!
The switcher runs awesome eh?
Yes, this could be a problem for our model railroad, but when you see the Prototype, my gosh, some time you wonder how the train stain on tracks.
Yes. Some prototype "active" rail is quite horrendous indeed.
To attach my ballast I use a 50 - 50 Elmer's glue to water and that will dry hard as concrete.
Sounds good. ;-)
does the liquitex matte medium expire??
Not really. Keep the bottle sealed and it will last indefinitely.
@@boomerdiorama cool beans thank you..
Hi Boomer, Which matte medium brand is better, Golden or liquidtex? Or they got their strength in different application? Thanks.
I prefer Liquitex, but Golden works good as well.
@@boomerdioramaIs there any specific reason why you prefer liquidtex over Golden ? How they compare each other in terms of railway model making? Thank you.
Thanks for another inspiring video
You are so welcome!
Hi! Was it neccesary to pull it up for some reason (contact fe)? Because I actually like the look of the rocking loco and cars on those track differences in the example clip! But not if it caused operation problems of course 🥰
Probably not, but it did cause issues for my six axles with low snowplows and longer truck wheelbases . . . ;-). Cheers.
Ah ok, like that, the margins are also 87 times smaller right! Nice job, the last one I tried resulted in completely breaking down my last layout… 😬😂
Hi, I’m interested in adding ambient sound to various areas on my layout. Have you ever done this?
Find some cheap speakers and use an MP3 player. That is all I used in the past. After awhile, you will probably turn it off anyway . . . lol. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks!
In 2010, there was an earthquake in Chile, measuring 8.8 on the Richter scale, which significantly damaged my house and, in the case of my layout, had terrible consequences with significant losses. As a result of uneven ground and buildings, the track, which was perfectly level and allowed trains to circulate, suffered subsidence of between 1 and 2 inches in short sections, causing cars to persistently become uncoupled. By adjusting the height of the bench legs, I managed to improve the problem a little, but then I had to do a better levelling, which meant clearing the track from the sub-base. And it was useful that in this country the things that are manufactured are of poor quality, because when I soaked the tracks with alcohol, the white wood adhesive gave way and I was unable to make something similar to what you are doing. Unfortunately, when my computer was stolen, I lost the photos of the effects of the earthquake on the trains, which I would have liked to show you.
Thanks for sharing!
The area you live in has got to be bad for model railways. Humidity and very dry months. I am fortunate to have a temperature stable room in a dry area of Colorado. I rarely see humidity over 40%. It is usually around 15-30%. I had some problems with sag on an earlier layout where I used cheap home store plywood. It dipped a 1/4 inch and had to be shored up with more framing from underneath. Yikes. Rob
The humidity here this summer for about a few months was 90%. I am surprised the layout did not deflect more than it did. I guess this speaks for the quality of "Baltic" Birch I used as well. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Yes, agreed, Baltic Birch plywood is the premium material. That is what I used building my layout.
Liquitex. Another great product from New Jersey.🤣🤘
Right on!
So are you saying that all of the turnouts on your layout ONLY use pc board ties? I thought that you CA’d wooden ties to the rail for the ones that weren’t soldered PC, and the PC had styrene to boost their height. Am I mistaken?
Yes I do, but they don't really move when I lift the actual turnout with the PC board ties attached.
wonder if there was a pink foam seam/joint shrinkage underneath the dip location??? I have seen where pink foam shrinks along cut edges seams etc...or maybe there is a sink hole due to culvert erosion 🤣🙂
No foam subroadbed on this layout. It is probably due to the open window under the layout during a summer of 90% humidity. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama so glad to hear no foam sub , some guys love it..just not for me..
" 😉 " ... Regards, Olli
Cheers!
I needed this one. Thank you Boomer!
O.K. Cheers! 😁
Just amazing (!)
Runs good now!
Don’t you think some minor track undulation is normal?
Of course it is but not in this area. This particular trackage is the lead for both ends of the layout. It will see a lot of action. I have other sidings and spurs that are bumpy and undulating already on the layout. This track needs to be smooth as it serves the Barge Slip, Interchange, and the coming Ferry ops. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama have you had derailments with any power there? You figured the delta worked out to what 12 scale inches? What’s the correlation between “the Barge slip”…. the others and smoothness as opposed to the sidings? I forget, what code is this track, and are the sidings different weight? Thanks…
Hi Boomer, I was wondering how you prevent your switches getting glued stuck.
When the matte medium dries I just soak the throw bar and points down with straight IPA (to dilute the glue more) and wiggle them loose a few times and all is good. ;-)
Hello Boomer. Your site is AWESOME! i Want to build a large warehouse like the one you built. What is the Evergreen plastic sheet number that you used for the outside of the building? Thanks
I generally use .040" to .060" sheet.
Yeh but Boomer isnt a "dip" or a "hump" prototypical ? modern railways aren't perfectly flat so why do we as modellers insist on "perfect" trackwork ? BTW ive watched every episode on your channel 👍 have you any space to incorporate your previous layout onto River Road ?
Great Questions. I agree with you. Some of my track is not perfect and it runs great that way and I plan to leave it as such. However, the "dip" and the "hump" in this particular section (mainline interchange) was causing issues with six-axle locomotives and lower snow plows. This would have a negative effect on thee Barge Slip operations in terms of reliable switching.
The previous layout (Glover Road) can be incorporated in if I want it to. However, (section three) is reserved for Glover Road 2.0. I always had plans to remodel Milner and Crush Crescent. There were 'operational' issues on the previous shelf payout that did not work out in terms of track plan, according to how I want to model the prototype concerning the Milner Grain Elevator and the intersection there.
I also need to re-imagine the end of section three for further expansion beyond the intersection known as "Crush Crescent." RIght now the total length of the layout is 26 feet but I plan to extend that down the road. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
Boomer, where do you get your switch stands? They look fantastic.
Intercity Trains and Hobbies. Best to phone and ask them. Ask for F&M Models Switch stands which are nicer than these!
That works good
Yes it does!
Dear Boomer, what in your estimation is the best way to maintain track heads, is it by using a Bright boy cleaner? Thanks
I use a piece of wood personally. Sometimes I use the end of a Bamboo Skewer (sanded flat) and just rub it down the top of the rail as it forms a notch in the ned on it's own. When I remove paint, I use an old sock over my finger dipped in IPA, then rub it down with a piece of hardwood.
Interesting, thanks! Pine will do or any type of wood?
In case you're wondering(you probably already know but for your viewers), the 'track stablizer' is actually cslled a TAMPER. The tamper and it's side kick or should I say accomplice, the regulator are evey Signal maintainer's nemsis and I speak from experiance! 😂
Sure thing, but it did say right on the side of the unit "Track Stabilizer" as it cruised on by. Cheers. ;-)
Oh, never noticed that. Must be CN. 😆
Boomer, nicely done. I have a unsolved mystery with my list of things to do. As fast as I remove an item from the top of the list and start thinking to myself I'll soon get this lot knocked off. I turn around only to find the list is growing again, new items seemed to have been added to the bottom of the list? So I better go and get stuck in again. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Keep adding to the list and you will never grow bored . . . lol. I have several lists. ;-)
👍
Cheers!
Good stuff, Boomer.
I sure feel better about how the track runs now . . . ;-)
Hence directly down on the plywood to start with. I'm relatively sure you wouldn't be doing this video due to your cork bed degrading.
There is no cork degrading. It's soaked in matte medium. ;-)