WoW thank you so much! I would have never guessed in a million years to just cut/grind a bolt to a length I needed! Oh my what would this world do without geniuses like you..... eyes rolling
Dude and wtf was the point on grinding off your hardness rating on top of the bolt..? Also, you want your bolts to be softer and be the first piece to wear instead of whatever housing that bolt is threaded into... Wtf was this? Hopefully satire...
Nich Farnham Welding a matching rod to the end of the bolt and tapping it can lead to satisfactory results, if every step is being made in the right order.
I have been working on just about everything from mini bikes to restaurant equipment for over 54 years and am still learning. Learned this the hard way years back & I am always looking for ways to get er done. So your title “OLD MECHANIC TAUGHT ME THIS YEARS AGO! “ caught my attention. Years back I only had a hack saw to cut with & this method was necessary . This is a good tip for newbie’s and others that may not turn a wrench too often and others that did not figure it out yet. I do not understand all the negative comments. If the experts have a problem with this why did they even click onto the video or better yet just produce a video series on whatever they do as experts? Well that’s my $.04 worth. Stay well Joe Z.
Kent Brauer. It wasn't explained anywhere in the video. Then I would have painted it. Because if I'm doing a restoration I would protect the fasteners from corrosion. Just saying.
I just want to say something to those with the negative comments. Not everybody that watches UA-cam have had the privilege of learning certain skills, such as the bolt modification in this video. Lighten up and let live. Everybody is at a different place in their learning and understanding. I hope there are 12 year olds watching this great video, instead of other worthless options. I learned this from my dad when I was about 13 and it brought back great memories! Great video!! Jeremy,from Michigan
Jeremy Warmuskerken exactly. I've been a maintenance technician for 20 yrs and always looking for new tricks even though this may not be new it's new to someone
So true, we aren’t all blessed with elders who’ve shared their experiences and knowledge. I was lucky to have three practical teachers (2 x Grandads and a Dad) who all had a wealth of knowledge on tricks like this and a desire to help me learn, some stuff they let me learn from experience, some stuff they taught me. I’m forever grateful for their support and guidance. Why wouldn’t we encourage our children to learn some tricks here and then help them with the hands on stuff? My seven year old daughter is a hands on type and I hope she will be cutting, grinding and welding before she reaches high school 😀
This helped someone, somewhere. Sometimes you came really far, and can't remember the learning process. Not only that, but it was a good metered approach.... I watched the whole time waiting for the old timer trick. :) Thanks for making videos
Dan 255 Tl;dr: This is only a no-brainer to me and to you and a number of other people, but it isn't to others. (Comment written before I added the tl;dr, first sentence might be especially awkward unless read as though it was first sentence in comment.) But this isn't accurate. I remember when I was growing and this was exactly the kind of simple trick that would blow my mind. And I was one of the kids with a clearer head most of the time. If your talking about anyone else who would have made me look like I had it together (note: I didn't), then all of the sudden this video becomes crucial to exist, we can talk all day about the complex stuff but as far as I've observed, people struggle getting into various fields and such because there isn't enough showcasing of the basics because it's assumed as "common knowledge." Well, common sense isn't common, and we thus have a knowledge and competence gap between groups of people, not necessarily because of economics (though I'm not discounting problems there affecting everything), but purely because of a cultural phenomenon. (when taken on its own merit outside of economics.). So I'm of the mind that I'm not going to take anyone's knowledge base for granted, I will not assume they should know something so much. (Hmmm, I might have to come up with an example or memory of what I've observed if you press that detail, which would be fine of you to do. I didn't really back that up well here, but comment is long enough already.)
My pa taught me this trick when I was about 10 yrs old. Some people don’t have fathers or anyone to teach them things. Nothing wrong with passing on this knowledge.
I did the same thing and no mechanic taught me, mainly common sense for me.. using a grade 8 bolt in place of a grade 2.. I dont know if I would have done that.. for reason's.. the bolt is designed to be drilled out encase of snapping off the head, corrosion, being stripped or the end of the bolt gets mushroomed from over tightening.. using grade 8 makes it harder to remove... as a rule of engineering design grade 2 to 5 bolts use for bolting in legs or supports they serve no function other than holding something in place and dont need grades beyond that.. no purpose to grind off the grade 8 markings and sides that are plated? but like assholes everyone has an opinion, including myself..
I taught this trick to a neighbor who was a pro mechanic back in 1968 when I was 16 years old. I still use it today with one added step to what you showed. I use a powered wire brush to clean the end threads up after removing the nut. I also have run into situations where a bolt is available, but the wrench size does not match the other bolts in the assembly. You can use a bench grinder or an angle grinder to "shave" down each facet of the head to match the correct wrench size, then chamfer the top edges to make it a bit smoother and to match the existing bolts' shape.
Penny Lyons he never said he just learned it. I think he's probably been doing this for years, and just saw the opportunity to share it with ppl that might not have known what to do. That's a lot of what he does... good grief!
I was going to hammer you about the removal of material from the sides of the bolt head until I saw your clarification video. Now I can see that you only removed the plating so that paint will adhere. This "Old Mechanic" appreciates the fact that there's young and honest people out there that are restoring and conserving our past. That are also willing to share what they've learned with others using newer technology such as UA-cam. When I was young there weren't many people who cared about the past. This resulted in the disposal or destruction of so much without regard for the fact that what they're disposing of will be lost forever and that it may have future value.
Awesome trick, I used to use a hacksaw to shorten a bolt and then had to file the burrs down. Your way-faster smoother & easier! Especially having the two nuts on high side to make sure you can spin them off. Ignore the haters. Gotta love it!
The replacement bolt shown is a Grade 8 bolt, indicated by the 6 radial lines on the hex head. A Grade 5 bolt, not shown, will have 3 radial lines on it. A plain steel bolt with a zinc finish will have 0 lines. Grade 5 bolts are 30% stronger than plain bolts in terms of both tensile (load along the axis) and shear (across the axis) strength; they are also more resistant to rust. Grade 8 bolts are even better as they are 60% stronger than plain steel. I commend the UA-cam contributor's bolt choice as this is a worthy upgrade to a failing bolt. While I understand the double-nut trick in the bench vise and the shortening with a grinder, I do not understand why the 6 lines were ground off the head (as was noted in other comments). Why not communicate to the next mechanic that a Grade 8 replacement is a good idea? *** Different topic - the passing of maintenance knowledge to others. It is simply not true that "everybody knows that". That's like saying a pro football coach can drive across town and manage the baseball franchise and that your dentist can give you an eye exam. UA-cam is a DIY sea change. I've used it to (a) cut down a dead tree; (b) repair a stopper on a pedestal sink; and (c) replace the display on a laptop. In each case I watched at least 3 different videos and learned something from each one not covered in the others. Then I had a plan for tools, parts, and manual help. I was able to complete the projects on the first try; in the case of the tree, safely. So experts, please keep loading videos like this one in your area of knowledge. You probably won't be around to help your great-grandchildren but your video will be available forever.
That video doesn't answer his question. Why not just cut it off close to the nut, then grind down a little tiny bit more? Seems that would be faster than just simply grinding down an inch or whatever off a bolt.
I figured he just didn't feel like answering the question and cut and paste a link instead. Not a big deal. I've cut hundreds of bolts to length flush with pre-attached nuts with zero issues. And it's a lot faster than grinding the face. I really can't think of a single reason why one would grind a bolt to length unless the length being removed is, perhaps, less than the diameter of the face. And even then cutting is likely faster. Preference I suppose.
Simple - but a good little video that novices may learn from. How many guys will cut a bolt or threaded rod without using a nut to chase it and then fight and file to get a nut to go on. All the experts can laugh but it happens for sure. Why grind off the coating and markings? To make it look correct when trying to restore to original. This is a very easy video to make fun of - I almost did myself -but while a no-brainer for experienced guys, a lot can use these tips. How many guys would cut the bolt, install and paint - only to have people critisize or at a judged show lose points because of having the modern bolt heads showing? Not rocket science but a good video!
Smart! In Gunsmithing, when we don’t have a particular specialized screw, we make one to specs. Your vid is a reinforcement! Good for you! Keep doing great work! Semper Fi
The "trick" he is advertising here is to put a nut on before you cut it, so removing the nut AFTER the cut will fix the threads. You obviously have never cut a bolt and then tried to screw it in without fixing the threads (messed up from the cut). So you tried to be a smart-alec on a video WAYYYY above your skill level...how did that work out?
I've cut off thousands of bolts in my life, putting the nut on is..... "nice" but I NEVER do it. and never have an issue with them threading up either, on a rare occasion, a slight file to the edge.... but not often. Gary Cooper above.... I had to laugh when I saw this as well. BUT... there are plenty of people who probably could learn from this and never would think of "cutting off" a bolt in stock. But then again, they probably trip while they are chewing gum and walking too.
been wrenching and running maintenance programs for 40 years. Millwright, car mechanic, truck and coach, and factory trained Harley mechanic. I usually am more interested in seeing how someone else does it so I might learn something than criticizing. But hey,, I am not an expert.
I used to get sent out to do repairs in the field. My no-no word to the staff was "easy", they were never to refer to a repair job as "easy". It was uncanny the way "easy" jobs turned into 3 headed monsters.
You know utube is a tough crowd, good job dude! I have done the same thing many times. I never throw away any extra bolts or screws just for that same purpose.
Yes! When cutting or grinding down a bolt you should always put a nut on all the way down. That way after you cut and/or grind it and remove the nut, the nut will correct the threads. (You probably should of explained that in the video.)
As a 20-year machinist I was one of the ones that believed this video was common sense. After watching your "Exposed" video, I understand where you were coming from. Everyone's not journeyman machinist or mechanics. Nice videos.
It works without using the nuts as well, but yes, placing those two nuts ensure you will never screw up the threads plus you get it done quicker, otherwise it might not work from the first attempt. Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
I think this was awesome and tips and tricks are ALWAYS appreciated...IGNORE the critics...they usually think they know it all and they actually are the sloppiest
True, but sometimes a dinged up first thread can be tricky to get a die started on properly (in other circumstances, not cutting like this). A file is pretty handy then. The more tools the better.
I figured this trick out for myself about 10 years ago! Having the nuts on there automatically straightens out the last few threads and lifts the thinnest threads that need to be filled down so they don't hang up and block the threads when you go to thread it in it's intended hole!
When I have a son I will teach him this he'll ask 'where did you learn this dad' Im gonna tell him 'from a man in an old video who learned it from an old mechanic' and thus moves on
I worked in a machine shop for a number of years after I got out of high school, I remember some old Korean war vet showing me this trick. At the time I thought how silly, Why not just go to the store and buy some. Now that I have gotten older I see how this little bit of work and tricks like this can save you a lot of time.
this is an important video, anyone that says its a waste of time is wrong.. We've all met the ' i dont have time for stupid questions' types. I'm usually pulling them out of a ditch or welding something for them at 2 am. im gonna do a video on using a hacksaw blade to hold the fuel pump rod in place or reversing a rear drum, put 3 lug nuts on it and use it as a battering ram to remove the axle, or how about, the screwdriver thru the impossible stuck oil filter...haha.
joe ferguson there's a lot of little tricks to make life easier wrenching
6 років тому
and the filter just tears open with the old screwdriver trick then youre left with a stub to try and remove use a strap wrench and be done as for fuel pumps chevys got a bolt to hold the shaft ive never had to use nothing but grease to hold it on any others and if an axle wont come out i have a beautiful slide hammer that does the job fine
Power tools? Grinders? hah. Wish I had that stuff growing up in the 70s trying to work on our cars. I had screw drivers with chipped ends that had wooden handles, dull almost useless files. We had one socket set with mixed pieces from various brands literally shared by all my friends.
I've seen some people's inherited tool sets, what the new owner see's as treasured heirlooms, I usually see as mix matched, low quality imported junk from the 60's-70's.I would never ridicule this, but I feel bad when they think they now have something to work with, only to see a project fail because in most cases, shitty tools create shitty work.
@ gk100... myself, as well, except it was ten years earlier, and only me. But, my Mom was an artist, and she had a school quality pencil sharpener in the house. I grew to really appreciate that sharpener for all things I did. Never had to use those cheap little suckers, or a knife. That sharpener is in my shop, today, still going strong nearly 60 years later. One thing about growing up poor, and with a limited number of tools; it has given me a much better appreciation for what I now have. I take good care of my tools, and I still have the first tools I started with. OVer my life, I have seen many guys sell there tools. I have been in some tight financial situations over my life, but I have refused to sell my tools. Why? Because I can always make money, if I have the tools.
@Pleasant Lake Pirate Arrrggg!!! I couldn't disagree more. With some exceptions, tools worn out, and non-functional, or ones needing to sharp, and can't be sharpened, tools are tools... The quality of work is dependent on the craftsman. Ease of completion, time of completion, long term effect on your hands/wrists, etc, tools can have a big impact. It's why I have a bunch of Snap-On stuff; I spent every day, for many years, using them every day. Jobs went faster, which meant I made more in flat rate, so they paid for themselves. Many of them are more comfortable in your hands, so you hurt less at the nd of the day. Others did less long term damage, so I'm no as bad off at 65 as some guys I know. I still us cheap ass tools, even though I have a box of Snap-Ons. I sure don't want to leave a 30.00 screwdriver, or a 120.00 ratchet at the wrecking yards, or use them in the mud, under my house. Tools have their purpose, different tools have different purposes, but the quality of the end product is more determined by the amount of knowledge, adequate planning and precise execution.
Snap-On is over rated and very over priced. And their warranty is useless if you don't live where there is a good distributer. I've got a 120.00 ratchet that I haven't been able to use for atleast 4 years now. Distributer doesn't want to do his job. Acts like if you're not giving him money he shouldn't give you service or something. I know I don't believe he's still waiting on a back order. Guess he's too stupid to realize taking care of warranties is part of his job. Then there's my 65.00 test light. Nice one. But the cord was dry rotten and the insulation started falling off about 2 months after I purchased it. And the only place you can get bulbs is from the fat lazy fuck who won't warranty any of your over priced broken tools. Then you got Craftsman..... Everyone thinks they are great. They suck. Sockets wear out extremely fast if they don't break first. And as for their warranty. They keep getting more and more that have none. And if you take in a broken socket you better not be wearing your work uniform. They won't warranty it. Then you have their practice of changing their suppliers. They start getting something from somewhere else and what you have is now obsolete. Can't get replaced or even parts for it . You're screwed
I've been doing that for 50 years my grandpa showed me. Those old guys never threw anything away till it was used right down to the nub. Great tip for those who don't know. One comment, I am not certain what that blot holds on, but I doubt they made it a weak bolt just to be cheap. I'd say that cast part ain't cheap, so if it's a choice between stripping the threads in the part, or breaking and removing a bolt, I'd prefer breaking the bolt. That Grade 8 you put in there will tear the threats out of that cast part long before it breaks should someone over tighten it. Just a thought.
Great video. ¿What grinding wheel did you use to reduce the bolt length, kindly? (¿A flap 36 grit disk, as for a hand angle grinder?). Just wondering. Thank you.
Lots of good mechanics/machinists buy HF tools for one-off or jobs they expect to do very infrequently. That saves them money so they can buy higher quality tools for jobs they expect to do repeatedly. There's no need to have a shelf full of expensive name brand tools you've used only once or twice now is there?
Buying a 50$ screwdriver doesn't make you a better technician, just like a 200K car doesn't make you a racing driver. You buy it because you can and like to show off. #getreal
Hacksaws always worked for me unless the bolt was harder than the saw blade. :) Then I use a grinder or file to bevel the last thread or two to 45 degrees just like they did when they made the bolt.
What “pads” or wheels did you use for the cut off, polishing the marks off and the flats. Looks like there were at least three different ones. Red, green, yellow etc.
+John Icenhower They are from norton.the product line is blaze. Their rollock scotch bright is the best I have used. ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I’ve always shortened bolts with a hacksaw and then cleaned the end threads up with a triangular and flat file. The nut and abrasive disc worked well, real clean. I’ll try this next time,Cheers 🍻
even older mechanic taught me a trick many decades ago. you just melt steal and pour into a cast shaped like a bolt. its a pretty dope trick. just passing it on.
This is a good idea and will work good if you use the same grade Bolt the problem with a harder grade Bolt is somebody will over tighten the bolt in that casting and will strip out the threads in the casting then you really have problems. If you strip out the threads on a bolt you just replace the bolt.
+Walter Glenn Greer We got that covered. It will be in the build video. Thanks for watching Walter! This might interest You! ua-cam.com/video/hmy96VUTxZo/v-deo.html
Congrats. You made a grade 8 bolt look just like a grade 3 bolt. Didn't know that was possible. Seriously though chasing the cut threads with a nut already on the bolt does work great.
My dad taught me this one too. Learned it being raised on a wyoming ranch. Works even better if you also have a file and a thread file to clean it up real nice
Here's something you may not have known. Those markings on the new bolt you ground off indicated that it was a grade 8 bolt; very hard and can take a whole lot more torque than a grade 5 or grade 3 bolt. The old bolt you had was a grade 3, probably. No markings means grade 3, three markings in a triad means grade 5, and obviously the six marks you ground off means grade 8. Now that you ground them off, you have to remember it's a grade 8 bolt in case you have to drill it out! You'll need a special bit and probably a drill press. Unless you decide to kill the temper on it by heating it up red hot and turning it into a grade 3 bolt. Just FYI from a retired ASE Master Tech.
Just adding this to clarify my earlier comment. This is the method I use when cutting or grinding a bolt shorter. I just mentioned the thread file as a "BTW" comment. Great video. Great channel. You "Best Bacon" video is still my favorite YT video of all time.
So how are you going to fix the buggered up mounting threads when your grade 8 bolt destroys them? A Grade 2 bolt was used for a reason and grinding off the Grade 8 marking won't make it a Grade 2 bolt.
Funny...sometimes the best solution is right under our nose. That's why old mechanics are great - they know so much incredible, time-honored, wisdom..thanks, guy. :-)) (wife of a retired marine guy)
Two things - You used a grade 8 Bolt (top of head markings) that is hard and strong. Then you used a grinder to take off 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, which created a ton of heat and soften the bolt at the end. Use your nut measurement method is fine, but use a hack saw to cut it off, then file off the burr. Second, why did you grind the grade 8 markings off the head and then you ground off the cad plating off the hex sides that protects the bolt from rust. - Notes from an old aircraft mechanic.
Chasing the threads! I have a great hack for you! Dab a small amount of valve grinding compound on your screw tips especially Phillips heads! You keep the screws nice and you don't bugger up your drivers! I even add a small amount on my stones for sharpening certain knives and tools like chisels! Really, you won't believe it!
I like the way the bolt drops out of the vice and into his hand. He must be using the cold steal bolts that don't heat up when you cut and grind on them. My dad taught me to have a cup of water to drop it into to cool it off. So for all of you that just learned something here, that bolt will burn your hand, you will do it two or three times before you learn your lesson. And most of all, don't look for cold steal bolts, I don't think you will find any.
Adding heat to the bolt by using a grinder to shorten it also changes the bolt's temper. Use a cutting wheel to cut it quicker to add less heat to the bolt.
I will try to remember this, I usually thread on a die and then cut, but sometimes you dont have the right tap/die. I find it almost impossible to get the threads aligned exactly when trying to cut the threads so this works except for a very, very short bolt lol.
Good video man! I hate seeing all the negative comments...you could pass out bags of cash and some would still complain how ugly and heavy the bags are! lol! People need to realize that this is an educational video for someone who is a beginner or simply looking for different ways to do things. Keep up the good work and don't let haters get you down!
Iam in total shock that u actually made a video! about that.....i thought for a moment that this was some sort of joke or prank!!! BUT u are SERIOUS!!!!......DUDE THAT'S JUST NORMALL EVERYDAY SHIT!!!, I cant count the amount of times ive done this in my 45 years of working!
I modify bolts all the time .... Who wants to spend hours and sometimes DAYS looking for the perfect both ... Look for 15-20 minutes and if you cant find one in your stuff ... You make or modify one !! Cool vid !!!
you can take a piece of all thread or even the threads of a long shoulder bolt,cut to length.take a nut and thread it on but when nut is put on,use a high strength thread locking liquid or a press fit.let the nut be the bolt cap,let the locking agent dry,thread it into the item you want to secure.regardless it will become a jamb nut scenario whether the nut jambs against item or another nut is used on the other end.
I thought that I would add something that you or anyone else might not know. If you have a bolt, that has a damaged section of threads, but you don't have the die to rethread it try this trick. Screw the nut on as far as you can easily then use the bolt like a hammer and hit the nut on something solid. What you re trying to do is use the weight of the bolt to reshape the threads. Your nut is now your die. If the bolt is large this works very well. If it is small, you may have to put it in a vice and use a hammer and punch on the sides of the nut. After you smack the nut on whatever, try to turn the nut again. Usually you will find that you can turn the nut a little ways with your fingers. Then smack it again, turn it some more. I have used this technique for years. It usually works, at least if the threads are not to badly damaged to begin with.
I'm curious. Why, since you have 2 nuts to take off, didn't you just use a SLOW cut from a saw?I how it is a hard Bolt, but that was a lot of grinding. When done, 'twirl' the cut edge on a 45 degree lightly and the net will screw off and on by hand.
WoW thank you so much! I would have never guessed in a million years to just cut/grind a bolt to a length I needed! Oh my what would this world do without geniuses like you..... eyes rolling
Dude and wtf was the point on grinding off your hardness rating on top of the bolt..? Also, you want your bolts to be softer and be the first piece to wear instead of whatever housing that bolt is threaded into... Wtf was this? Hopefully satire...
I'm just overwhelmed by the amount of invaluable knowledge i just learned. Mind blown.
@luia beto It's hidden between the lines, called 'sarcasm'.
Show me how to make it longer. Then I will be impressed
+Nick Farnham Rub it?.
That's What She Said
Nich Farnham
Welding a matching rod to the end of the bolt and tapping it can lead to satisfactory results, if every step is being made in the right order.
That was funny..
get the welder out duh
You shortened the bolt...wow what an amazing trick... I don’t think anyone else in the world could have come up with such an engineering marvel
+travis clarkin ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
My Dad Showed Me That Trick About 45 Years Ago!Still With Me Today Thanks Dad.
I have been working on just about everything from mini bikes to restaurant equipment for over 54 years and am still learning. Learned this the hard way years back & I am always looking for ways to get er done.
So your title “OLD MECHANIC TAUGHT ME THIS YEARS AGO! “ caught my attention.
Years back I only had a hack saw to cut with & this method was necessary . This is a good tip for newbie’s and others that may not turn a wrench too often and others that did not figure it out yet. I do not understand all the negative comments. If the experts have a problem with this why did they even click onto the video or better yet just produce a video series on whatever they do as experts? Well that’s my $.04 worth. Stay well Joe Z.
+JOE Z Thanks Joe
JOE Z
Good channel you got.
I subbed.
Thank Ann A for watching & taking the time to comment.
Stay well, Joe Z.
+JOE Z Thanks Joe!
You're welcome.
Why in heavens sat would u remove the zinc coating from the top. Wtf. I don't get it
Doitrightcmrs to make the new bolt match the old bolt. This is very important when doing a restoration.
Kent Brauer. It wasn't explained anywhere in the video. Then I would have painted it. Because if I'm doing a restoration I would protect the fasteners from corrosion. Just saying.
Doitrightcmrs in the first sentence of the video he is restoring a forge getting it ready for paint
did you read the heading!
he learn this crap from an old fool.
+Janet Smith ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
I just want to say something to those with the negative comments. Not everybody that watches UA-cam have had the privilege of learning certain skills, such as the bolt modification in this video. Lighten up and let live. Everybody is at a different place in their learning and understanding. I hope there are 12 year olds watching this great video, instead of other worthless options. I learned this from my dad when I was about 13 and it brought back great memories! Great video!!
Jeremy,from
Michigan
Jeremy Warmuskerken exactly. I've been a maintenance technician for 20 yrs and always looking for new tricks even though this may not be new it's new to someone
So true, we aren’t all blessed with elders who’ve shared their experiences and knowledge.
I was lucky to have three practical teachers (2 x Grandads and a Dad) who all had a wealth of knowledge on tricks like this and a desire to help me learn, some stuff they let me learn from experience, some stuff they taught me. I’m forever grateful for their support and guidance. Why wouldn’t we encourage our children to learn some tricks here and then help them with the hands on stuff? My seven year old daughter is a hands on type and I hope she will be cutting, grinding and welding before she reaches high school 😀
Jeremy Warmuskerken AthFUmen
Jeremy Warmuskerken I would rather a kid use a hacksaw and file , safer.
That's a great idea, let a 12 year old loose with a grinder (not)
I was shown this years ago. So simple and effective. Once you cross thread something the jobs knackered! Thanks for helping others out mate.
This helped someone, somewhere. Sometimes you came really far, and can't remember the learning process. Not only that, but it was a good metered approach.... I watched the whole time waiting for the old timer trick. :) Thanks for making videos
I appreciate the video and all but this was like a no brainer, every-one knows this.
+Dan 255 ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Dan 255
Tl;dr: This is only a no-brainer to me and to you and a number of other people, but it isn't to others.
(Comment written before I added the tl;dr, first sentence might be especially awkward unless read as though it was first sentence in comment.)
But this isn't accurate.
I remember when I was growing and this was exactly the kind of simple trick that would blow my mind.
And I was one of the kids with a clearer head most of the time.
If your talking about anyone else who would have made me look like I had it together (note: I didn't), then all of the sudden this video becomes crucial to exist, we can talk all day about the complex stuff but as far as I've observed, people struggle getting into various fields and such because there isn't enough showcasing of the basics because it's assumed as "common knowledge."
Well, common sense isn't common, and we thus have a knowledge and competence gap between groups of people, not necessarily because of economics (though I'm not discounting problems there affecting everything), but purely because of a cultural phenomenon. (when taken on its own merit outside of economics.).
So I'm of the mind that I'm not going to take anyone's knowledge base for granted, I will not assume they should know something so much.
(Hmmm, I might have to come up with an example or memory of what I've observed if you press that detail, which would be fine of you to do. I didn't really back that up well here, but comment is long enough already.)
My pa taught me this trick when I was about 10 yrs old. Some people don’t have fathers or anyone to teach them things. Nothing wrong with passing on this knowledge.
Lol, there are people out there who can't thread a needle let alone cut a bolt down to size.
lol you know everyone? all 7 billion? wow.
Don't forget your safety glasses when grinding you bolt down to your nuts.
+Allen McKinney Ha!
You may need to wear a cup too.
I did the same thing and no mechanic taught me, mainly common sense for me.. using a grade 8 bolt in place of a grade 2.. I dont know if I would have done that.. for reason's.. the bolt is designed to be drilled out encase of snapping off the head, corrosion, being stripped or the end of the bolt gets mushroomed from over tightening.. using grade 8 makes it harder to remove... as a rule of engineering design grade 2 to 5 bolts use for bolting in legs or supports they serve no function other than holding something in place and dont need grades beyond that.. no purpose to grind off the grade 8 markings and sides that are plated? but like assholes everyone has an opinion, including myself..
+I'm The Law ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
a foreman told me once excuses are like ass holes eveyone has one and most of them stink
+Bearwood Brown ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
+Road Sawyer Rookie this. ;)
ua-cam.com/video/-6mhK8kgfxo/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching!
your right a 66 year old rookie.. that has worked trains, planes, truck and ships.... been there, seen it, done it..
I taught this trick to a neighbor who was a pro mechanic back in 1968 when I was 16 years old. I still use it today with one added step to what you showed. I use a powered wire brush to clean the end threads up after removing the nut.
I also have run into situations where a bolt is available, but the wrench size does not match the other bolts in the assembly. You can use a bench grinder or an angle grinder to "shave" down each facet of the head to match the correct wrench size, then chamfer the top edges to make it a bit smoother and to match the existing bolts' shape.
Just beveling those freshly cut edges makes it work perfect almost every time, even without chasing the threads.
+darryn frost ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Good grief! I'm shocked that you've only just learned this 'hack'. I've used it for years!
Penny Lyons he never said he just learned it. I think he's probably been doing this for years, and just saw the opportunity to share it with ppl that might not have known what to do. That's a lot of what he does... good grief!
I was going to hammer you about the removal of material from the sides of the bolt head until I saw your clarification video. Now I can see that you only removed the plating so that paint will adhere. This "Old Mechanic" appreciates the fact that there's young and honest people out there that are restoring and conserving our past. That are also willing to share what they've learned with others using newer technology such as UA-cam.
When I was young there weren't many people who cared about the past. This resulted in the disposal or destruction of so much without regard for the fact that what they're disposing of will be lost forever and that it may have future value.
+William Charles Thanks William!
Awesome trick, I used to use a hacksaw to shorten a bolt and then had to file the burrs down. Your way-faster smoother & easier! Especially having the two nuts on high side to make sure you can spin them off.
Ignore the haters.
Gotta love it!
Wow thanks. I would have never thought of that.
I am only 12 and I love videos like this. You made my day.
Some people needed to learn and see this...if someone is commenting about a easy job youve done,they didnt need to watch thenn.
Good job sir
The replacement bolt shown is a Grade 8 bolt, indicated by the 6 radial lines on the hex head. A Grade 5 bolt, not shown, will have 3 radial lines on it. A plain steel bolt with a zinc finish will have 0 lines.
Grade 5 bolts are 30% stronger than plain bolts in terms of both tensile (load along the axis) and shear (across the axis) strength; they are also more resistant to rust. Grade 8 bolts are even better as they are 60% stronger than plain steel. I commend the UA-cam contributor's bolt choice as this is a worthy upgrade to a failing bolt.
While I understand the double-nut trick in the bench vise and the shortening with a grinder, I do not understand why the 6 lines were ground off the head (as was noted in other comments). Why not communicate to the next mechanic that a Grade 8 replacement is a good idea?
***
Different topic - the passing of maintenance knowledge to others. It is simply not true that "everybody knows that". That's like saying a pro football coach can drive across town and manage the baseball franchise and that your dentist can give you an eye exam.
UA-cam is a DIY sea change. I've used it to (a) cut down a dead tree; (b) repair a stopper on a pedestal sink; and (c) replace the display on a laptop. In each case I watched at least 3 different videos and learned something from each one not covered in the others. Then I had a plan for tools, parts, and manual help. I was able to complete the projects on the first try; in the case of the tree, safely. So experts, please keep loading videos like this one in your area of knowledge. You probably won't be around to help your great-grandchildren but your video will be available forever.
Michael, Thanks for the info on Grade 5 Bolts.
Why grind it down versus cut it to length while in the vise? It seems like the time would have been the same or less.
+Data Mobility Group LLC sure.
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
That video doesn't answer his question. Why not just cut it off close to the nut, then grind down a little tiny bit more? Seems that would be faster than just simply grinding down an inch or whatever off a bolt.
I figured he just didn't feel like answering the question and cut and paste a link instead. Not a big deal.
I've cut hundreds of bolts to length flush with pre-attached nuts with zero issues. And it's a lot faster than grinding the face. I really can't think of a single reason why one would grind a bolt to length unless the length being removed is, perhaps, less than the diameter of the face. And even then cutting is likely faster.
Preference I suppose.
I use a hack saw and a file, same results. Then again, I'm not usually shortening Grade 8 bolts.
+Thomas Thedoubter Those grade eight are tough. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Simple - but a good little video that novices may learn from. How many guys will cut a bolt or threaded rod without using a nut to chase it and then fight and file to get a nut to go on. All the experts can laugh but it happens for sure. Why grind off the coating and markings? To make it look correct when trying to restore to original. This is a very easy video to make fun of - I almost did myself -but while a no-brainer for experienced guys, a lot can use these tips. How many guys would cut the bolt, install and paint - only to have people critisize or at a judged show lose points because of having the modern bolt heads showing? Not rocket science but a good video!
+Peter L Thanks Peter!
Right...It's not What he did, Its How he did it. Most people screw it up(see what I did there?) lol
+WoodGrain Studios ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
of course it is possible
Of course its possible - just quicker and easier with the nut.
Smart! In Gunsmithing, when we don’t have a particular specialized screw, we make one to specs. Your vid is a reinforcement! Good for you! Keep doing great work! Semper Fi
+Robert Mercado Thanks brother!
Wow this video has changed my life my mind is blown send this Video to NASA you will be the head engineer instantly
So ... if something is too long, you can cut it shorter? Believe it or not, I already knew that.
The "trick" he is advertising here is to put a nut on before you cut it, so removing the nut AFTER the cut will fix the threads. You obviously have never cut a bolt and then tried to screw it in without fixing the threads (messed up from the cut). So you tried to be a smart-alec on a video WAYYYY above your skill level...how did that work out?
I've cut off thousands of bolts in my life, putting the nut on is..... "nice" but I NEVER do it. and never have an issue with them threading up either, on a rare occasion, a slight file to the edge.... but not often. Gary Cooper above.... I had to laugh when I saw this as well. BUT... there are plenty of people who probably could learn from this and never would think of "cutting off" a bolt in stock. But then again, they probably trip while they are chewing gum and walking too.
+Brent Barnhart Check out another video on this channel.I recomend the line shaft grinder restoration. Leave a comment. Thanks
I use this technique when cutting all thread.
trev just hit it on the knotted wire wheel done !!
I never knew there were that many experts out there.
+shovelhead8 Ha! Sad thing is there isnt.
Opinions and arses, everybody has one
been wrenching and running maintenance programs for 40 years. Millwright, car mechanic, truck and coach, and factory trained Harley mechanic. I usually am more interested in seeing how someone else does it so I might learn something than criticizing. But hey,, I am not an expert.
How did you ever learn anything?
I see why many channels are now blocking comments...not worth the aggravation.
"Ah, this thing is going to run today" phrase that always screws up my projects
Yep. Jinx it every time.
+Zach G Ha!
I used to get sent out to do repairs in the field. My no-no word to the staff was "easy", they were never to refer to a repair job as "easy". It was uncanny the way "easy" jobs turned into 3 headed monsters.
Agreed ... Murphy’s law... and by actually speaking it aloud almost guarantees a whack with the ol shillelagh......
You know utube is a tough crowd, good job dude! I have done the same thing many times. I never throw away any extra bolts or screws just for that same purpose.
Yes! When cutting or grinding down a bolt you should always put a nut on all the way down. That way after you cut and/or grind it and remove the nut, the nut will correct the threads. (You probably should of explained that in the video.)
Back when I was vo-tech in the late 1999. My teacher showed me this! To this day I do the same thing when I I need this done!!!
+soaringtractor ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
I don't understand whu you took off the grade 8 marking dont tighten that bolt to tight your strip the internal treads.
+Cory Palmerini This will help.
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
As a 20-year machinist I was one of the ones that believed this video was common sense. After watching your "Exposed" video, I understand where you were coming from. Everyone's not journeyman machinist or mechanics. Nice videos.
+Jason Barefoot Thanks Jason.
Um.why do you have to cut it off at all. Not going to hurt if it sticks out 1/4 inch"
sure you could "rig" it that way and it might work or you could take pride in what you do and do it right.
It works without using the nuts as well, but yes, placing those two nuts ensure you will never screw up the threads plus you get it done quicker, otherwise it might not work from the first attempt. Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
+inox1ck You bet.
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
I think this was awesome and tips and tricks are ALWAYS appreciated...IGNORE the critics...they usually think they know it all and they actually are the sloppiest
Good info. This may be a "no brainer" to some, but even they had to learn about it at some point.
BTW, a thread file is a handy thing to have around.
True, but sometimes a dinged up first thread can be tricky to get a die started on properly (in other circumstances, not cutting like this). A file is pretty handy then. The more tools the better.
+soaringtractor ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
I have used a thread file many times. No tool box is complete without one
+Gary Cunningham
Is that the little triangle one?
I like it. The fine art of deception. For a good reason. :)
But why change the size of the bolt head
Yeah, I wondered that too.
He was restoring the machine meaning it needed to look oem
He intended to paint the head.
I figured this trick out for myself about 10 years ago! Having the nuts on there automatically straightens out the last few threads and lifts the thinnest threads that need to be filled down so they don't hang up and block the threads when you go to thread it in it's intended hole!
+William Robinson Awesome!
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
That was Amazing!!!
All that grinding and the Bolt NEVER GOT SO HOT THAT U COULDNT TOUCH IT!!!!
+gwm3591 Stop yelling and I will tell you the secret... Norton blaze.
Good info for greenies.If you think that's a hack you should see some o the shit we pulled off in the boiler room of an aircraft carrier!😅😅😅
I have heard from a retired Master Chief about it.
...and the B'osun locker on a supply ship! turn two
All I ever saw was the brig...
thebigblazinB -Travel the world kill the ppl U met😥
+Eric King ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
This is done all the time on industrial maintenance
When I have a son I will teach him this he'll ask 'where did you learn this dad' Im gonna tell him 'from a man in an old video who learned it from an old mechanic' and thus moves on
+Josue Yanez Nice.
even better! when I have a son I would teach him not to learn from people that claims to learn this crap from an old fool.
+Janet Smith ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
You learned that bolts can be cut from a video? What?
Amazing. I never would have figured out how to shorten a bolt if it wasn't for UA-cam.
I worked in a machine shop for a number of years after I got out of high school, I remember some old Korean war vet showing me this trick. At the time I thought how silly, Why not just go to the store and buy some. Now that I have gotten older I see how this little bit of work and tricks like this can save you a lot of time.
Yea that bolt didn’t need that cad plating anyway.....
roslyn its cad plating
this is an important video, anyone that says its a waste of time is wrong.. We've all met the ' i dont have time for stupid questions' types. I'm usually pulling them out of a ditch or welding something for them at 2 am.
im gonna do a video on using a hacksaw blade to hold the fuel pump rod in place or reversing a rear drum, put 3 lug nuts on it and use it as a battering ram to remove the axle, or how about, the screwdriver thru the impossible stuck oil filter...haha.
joe ferguson there's a lot of little tricks to make life easier wrenching
and the filter just tears open with the old screwdriver trick then youre left with a stub to try and remove use a strap wrench and be done as for fuel pumps chevys got a bolt to hold the shaft ive never had to use nothing but grease to hold it on any others and if an axle wont come out i have a beautiful slide hammer that does the job fine
Power tools? Grinders? hah. Wish I had that stuff growing up in the 70s trying to work on our cars. I had screw drivers with chipped ends that had wooden handles, dull almost useless files. We had one socket set with mixed pieces from various brands literally shared by all my friends.
I've seen some people's inherited tool sets, what the new owner see's as treasured heirlooms, I usually see as mix matched, low quality imported junk from the 60's-70's.I would never ridicule this, but I feel bad when they think they now have something to work with, only to see a project fail because in most cases, shitty tools create shitty work.
@ gk100...
myself, as well, except it was ten years earlier, and only me. But, my Mom was an artist, and she had a school quality pencil sharpener in the house. I grew to really appreciate that sharpener for all things I did. Never had to use those cheap little suckers, or a knife.
That sharpener is in my shop, today, still going strong nearly 60 years later.
One thing about growing up poor, and with a limited number of tools; it has given me a much better appreciation for what I now have. I take good care of my tools, and I still have the first tools I started with.
OVer my life, I have seen many guys sell there tools. I have been in some tight financial situations over my life, but I have refused to sell my tools. Why? Because I can always make money, if I have the tools.
@Pleasant Lake Pirate
Arrrggg!!! I couldn't disagree more. With some exceptions, tools worn out, and non-functional, or ones needing to sharp, and can't be sharpened, tools are tools... The quality of work is dependent on the craftsman.
Ease of completion, time of completion, long term effect on your hands/wrists, etc, tools can have a big impact.
It's why I have a bunch of Snap-On stuff; I spent every day, for many years, using them every day.
Jobs went faster, which meant I made more in flat rate, so they paid for themselves. Many of them are more comfortable in your hands, so you hurt less at the nd of the day. Others did less long term damage, so I'm no as bad off at 65 as some guys I know.
I still us cheap ass tools, even though I have a box of Snap-Ons. I sure don't want to leave a 30.00 screwdriver, or a 120.00 ratchet at the wrecking yards, or use them in the mud, under my house.
Tools have their purpose, different tools have different purposes, but the quality of the end product is more determined by the amount of knowledge, adequate planning and precise execution.
Snap-On is over rated and very over priced. And their warranty is useless if you don't live where there is a good distributer. I've got a 120.00 ratchet that I haven't been able to use for atleast 4 years now. Distributer doesn't want to do his job. Acts like if you're not giving him money he shouldn't give you service or something. I know I don't believe he's still waiting on a back order. Guess he's too stupid to realize taking care of warranties is part of his job. Then there's my 65.00 test light. Nice one. But the cord was dry rotten and the insulation started falling off about 2 months after I purchased it. And the only place you can get bulbs is from the fat lazy fuck who won't warranty any of your over priced broken tools.
Then you got Craftsman..... Everyone thinks they are great. They suck. Sockets wear out extremely fast if they don't break first. And as for their warranty. They keep getting more and more that have none. And if you take in a broken socket you better not be wearing your work uniform. They won't warranty it. Then you have their practice of changing their suppliers. They start getting something from somewhere else and what you have is now obsolete. Can't get replaced or even parts for it . You're screwed
Pleasant Lake Pirate Sounds like a poor excuse for bad craftsmanship.
I've been doing that for 50 years my grandpa showed me. Those old guys never threw anything away till it was used right down to the nub. Great tip for those who don't know. One comment, I am not certain what that blot holds on, but I doubt they made it a weak bolt just to be cheap. I'd say that cast part ain't cheap, so if it's a choice between stripping the threads in the part, or breaking and removing a bolt, I'd prefer breaking the bolt. That Grade 8 you put in there will tear the threats out of that cast part long before it breaks should someone over tighten it. Just a thought.
Great video. ¿What grinding wheel did you use to reduce the bolt length, kindly? (¿A flap 36 grit disk, as for a hand angle grinder?). Just wondering. Thank you.
Must be a harbor freight customer!!!
+Mike Secondo Na, I make my own tools.
ua-cam.com/video/tnLLGXpVVk4/v-deo.html
Lots of good mechanics/machinists buy HF tools for one-off or jobs they expect to do very infrequently. That saves them money so they can buy higher quality tools for jobs they expect to do repeatedly. There's no need to have a shelf full of expensive name brand tools you've used only once or twice now is there?
Mike Secondo lol yep
Buying a 50$ screwdriver doesn't make you a better technician, just like a 200K car doesn't make you a racing driver. You buy it because you can and like to show off. #getreal
I do this before going to the store regardless. Great tip though . But just the tip!
+SHRED CT Just the tip.;)
SHRED CT just the tip!!!! Ahhhh
Ave has the best tips
+Adam Hughes But only the tip;)
and only for a minute.
use a blunt hacksaw like a man !
Hacksaws always worked for me unless the bolt was harder than the saw blade. :) Then I use a grinder or file to bevel the last thread or two to 45 degrees just like they did when they made the bolt.
What “pads” or wheels did you use for the cut off, polishing the marks off and the flats. Looks like there were at least three different ones. Red, green, yellow etc.
+John Icenhower They are from norton.the product line is blaze. Their rollock scotch bright is the best I have used.
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Thanks for taking the time for making the video.
I am that OLD MECHANIC ... hehehe .
+TheZemun Yes you are!
... just kidding.
+TheZemun ;)
i'm an old woman trying to learn how to remove rust from metal
Great video, thank you
+JON Gergeceff Thanks JON!
you his brother lol
Great video. I used to do this also. But, I used a hack saw. As long as you taper the end of the bolt the nut will go on.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I’ve always shortened bolts with a hacksaw and then cleaned the end threads up with a triangular and flat file. The nut and abrasive disc worked well, real clean. I’ll try this next time,Cheers 🍻
even older mechanic taught me a trick many decades ago. you just melt steal and pour into a cast shaped like a bolt. its a pretty dope trick. just passing it on.
+Bradford Roberson Dang, that's Rad!;)
This is a good idea and will work good if you use the same grade Bolt the problem with a harder grade Bolt is somebody will over tighten the bolt in that casting and will strip out the threads in the casting then you really have problems. If you strip out the threads on a bolt you just replace the bolt.
+Walter Glenn Greer We got that covered. It will be in the build video. Thanks for watching Walter!
This might interest You!
ua-cam.com/video/hmy96VUTxZo/v-deo.html
Seriously, I didn't think anyone over the age of 10 needed this advice. With respect, it's a no-brainer, good ol' common sense.
Congrats. You made a grade 8 bolt look just like a grade 3 bolt. Didn't know that was possible. Seriously though chasing the cut threads with a nut already on the bolt does work great.
My dad taught me this one too. Learned it being raised on a wyoming ranch. Works even better if you also have a file and a thread file to clean it up real nice
What type of tool and fitting did you use to polish up the bolt please?
Here's something you may not have known. Those markings on the new bolt you ground off indicated that it was a grade 8 bolt; very hard and can take a whole lot more torque than a grade 5 or grade 3 bolt. The old bolt you had was a grade 3, probably. No markings means grade 3, three markings in a triad means grade 5, and obviously the six marks you ground off means grade 8.
Now that you ground them off, you have to remember it's a grade 8 bolt in case you have to drill it out! You'll need a special bit and probably a drill press. Unless you decide to kill the temper on it by heating it up red hot and turning it into a grade 3 bolt.
Just FYI from a retired ASE Master Tech.
ladamyre Yup, thanks brother.
ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Simple effective. I love it. A 20 second video would be enough to demonstrate this. Thx
+Ahmed LAHLOU Thanks!
Just adding this to clarify my earlier comment. This is the method I use when cutting or grinding a bolt shorter. I just mentioned the thread file as a "BTW" comment.
Great video. Great channel. You "Best Bacon" video is still my favorite YT video of all time.
So how are you going to fix the buggered up mounting threads when your grade 8 bolt destroys them? A Grade 2 bolt was used for a reason and grinding off the Grade 8 marking won't make it a Grade 2 bolt.
Funny...sometimes the best solution is right under our nose. That's why old mechanics are great - they know so much incredible, time-honored, wisdom..thanks, guy. :-)) (wife of a retired marine guy)
Two things - You used a grade 8 Bolt (top of head markings) that is hard and strong. Then you used a grinder to take off 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, which created a ton of heat and soften the bolt at the end. Use your nut measurement method is fine, but use a hack saw to cut it off, then file off the burr. Second, why did you grind the grade 8 markings off the head and then you ground off the cad plating off the hex sides that protects the bolt from rust. - Notes from an old aircraft mechanic.
+Tim Howell Three other vids on all your questions. Start with the link in the first comment. Thanks for watching!
+Tim Howell You don't know it yet but your about to subscribe!;)
Chasing the threads! I have a great hack for you! Dab a small amount of valve grinding compound on your screw tips especially Phillips heads! You keep the screws nice and you don't bugger up your drivers! I even add a small amount on my stones for sharpening certain knives and tools like chisels! Really, you won't believe it!
You are a genius and the world is blind to it.
Pure magic...who would of ever thought of shortening a bolt.
Ian Steward ua-cam.com/video/Zmgo3kCJ46U/v-deo.html
I knew of the double stacking nuts on a bolt to cut... but that polishing the crown was some next level fabrication.
+Rory Siwik ua-cam.com/video/Zmgo3kCJ46U/v-deo.html
I prefer the easier hack saw and bench grinder method, but so happy I watched this it’s gonna save my life......
Been doing that for 50 years. Old machinist taught me in 60's
What was the purpose of cutting the hardness markings off of the First new bolt. To match the original which was apparently too soft from the factory.
+Ace of Spades ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
I like the way the bolt drops out of the vice and into his hand. He must be using the cold steal bolts that don't heat up when you cut and grind on them. My dad taught me to have a cup of water to drop it into to cool it off. So for all of you that just learned something here, that bolt will burn your hand, you will do it two or three times before you learn your lesson. And most of all, don't look for cold steal bolts, I don't think you will find any.
+Bill Strudgeon Would you like to know how I was able to hold the bolt after bringing on it?
Thanks for sharing this. I have been cutting bolts with a hack saw and then they were hard to thread in This trick grinding them looks a lot better
Adding heat to the bolt by using a grinder to shorten it also changes the bolt's temper. Use a cutting wheel to cut it quicker to add less heat to the bolt.
sentinels war would be true with a grinder. Not the case with Norton blaze. Check out my new vid on the subject
I will try to remember this, I usually thread on a die and then cut, but sometimes you dont have the right tap/die.
I find it almost impossible to get the threads aligned exactly when trying to cut the threads so this works except for a very, very short bolt lol.
+mike dee ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Wowzer! The idea of cutting off a too-long bolt with a grinder or Dremel tool had just never occurred to me! Thanks for the incredible wisdom!
Just carry on with the vids dude. Ignore all the negative comments. If only one person learns something you've done your job!
Good video man! I hate seeing all the negative comments...you could pass out bags of cash and some would still complain how ugly and heavy the bags are! lol! People need to realize that this is an educational video for someone who is a beginner or simply looking for different ways to do things. Keep up the good work and don't let haters get you down!
+Andrew Walters ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
Hi Tek dude. And you didn't even hurt yourself. Good job.
This hack is especially effective on smaller diameter bolts. That's where I first figured it out !
Iam in total shock that u actually made a video! about that.....i thought for a moment that this was some sort of joke or prank!!! BUT u are SERIOUS!!!!......DUDE THAT'S JUST NORMALL EVERYDAY SHIT!!!, I cant count the amount of times ive done this in my 45 years of working!
as a machinist, classic restoration, . etc... you made me my day
I've replaced a lot of typical grade 5 bolts with grade 8 bolts but I've never taken the time out to get rid of the markings.
+Todd Glover It's an antique and I am matching the old bolt.
I modify bolts all the time .... Who wants to spend hours and sometimes DAYS looking for the perfect both ... Look for 15-20 minutes and if you cant find one in your stuff ... You make or modify one !! Cool vid !!!
+MrGod1973 Thanks Mr!
ive done this and still do this... works like a charm...
you can take a piece of all thread or even the threads of a long shoulder bolt,cut to length.take a nut and thread it on but when nut is put on,use a high strength thread locking liquid or a press fit.let the nut be the bolt cap,let the locking agent dry,thread it into the item you want to secure.regardless it will become a jamb nut scenario whether the nut jambs against item or another nut is used on the other end.
Just wanted to say it was a really decent move on your part passing it on to the young bucks still learning. Solid move Sir!
I thought that I would add something that you or anyone else might not know. If you have a bolt, that has a damaged section of threads, but you don't have the die to rethread it try this trick. Screw the nut on as far as you can easily then use the bolt like a hammer and hit the nut on something solid. What you re trying to do is use the weight of the bolt to reshape the threads. Your nut is now your die. If the bolt is large this works very well. If it is small, you may have to put it in a vice and use a hammer and punch on the sides of the nut. After you smack the nut on whatever, try to turn the nut again. Usually you will find that you can turn the nut a little ways with your fingers. Then smack it again, turn it some more. I have used this technique for years. It usually works, at least if the threads are not to badly damaged to begin with.
Good tip, thanks. Using a measuring ruler can help to identify the length.
By Grinding & sizing the Hex Bolt, you have damaged the zinc coating top coat and zinc layer, which will make the bolt more prone to rust
I'm curious. Why, since you have 2 nuts to take off, didn't you just use a SLOW cut from a saw?I how it is a hard Bolt, but that was a lot of grinding. When done, 'twirl' the cut edge on a 45 degree lightly and the net will screw off and on by hand.
+John Wade ua-cam.com/video/OgvQKuCOhqI/v-deo.html
You shortened a bolt. Well done, you're a modern day Isambard kingdom Brunel!
Nicely done, sir! McGyver's got nothin' on you. 😎