I usually use six feather boards. The four that they showed, and two more in the way of my work, as a sort of obstacle course for my work- I find it more challenging that way. There are not many items in woodworking more beautiful than Woodpecker’s red aluminum against the black router table. Great quality stuff. Thanks for these videos
I've had this very problem from the beginning. Extremely frustrating, so I was glad to see you made a video on it. But after going through the steps, I was still coming up with uneven fences. Then - inspiration struck. Instead of getting the red bases even and parallel to the horizontal fence and then attaching the vertical fences, I first attached the vertical fences to the red bases. (I rested the verticals on the phenolic table top and the red bases on the horizontal fence so that the height was correct.) Then I simply pressed the vertical fences to the horizontal fence and tightened it up and for the first time - Voila! - I have a nice even fence!
Hey Jay and Jeff. As I had mentioned before in a comment, I have had the PRL-V2 Router Lift, Super Fence, Micro Adjust, Phenolic Table, and Incra CleanSweep Dust Cabinet in constant operation in my shop for over eight years. This video caused me to clean and reset my router system on a beautiful fall day on Lake Superior when I should have been outside. I disassembled all components, blew dust away, and followed your video to reset. Did not take very long. Everything lined up to a very acceptable tolerance level. As I reassembled, I kept checking the squareness. Everything lined up until I placed the sacrificial fence into position. As you mentioned, MDF can often expand and contract by thousandths of an inch and accumulative error over distance can be noticeable. I will probably shim my sacrificial fence with paper. Of course that does not mean the accuracy will be sustained over time. This was the Achilles heel in my quest for accuracy. As more components build on a system, accumulative error can develop. Beside conventional routing, I have used cabinet cutters to create hundreds of cabinet doors without error on this system. My use of a coping sled requires me to align the fence with the groove in the table. I have established that first off, your table must be flat or you will pull just about any level of machined accuracy out of alignment when secured down. The stock to be machined must also be square and flat. Remove the fence and blow out debris and dust if accuracy is diminishing. Do the same to your router. I wish this video was available when I assembled my system.. It sure would have saved a lot of time. I have always had contact and good response with the guys in tech support at Woodpeckers. The videos to support your products are a great addition. After so many years in the field, I have found Woodpeckers and SawStop have offered the greatest assistance related to their products.
Joe, Thanks so much for the vote of confidence. With regard to coping cuts...have you looked at our coping sled? It guides off the fence and does not use the miter track. Therefore, you don't have to tweak the fence perfectly parallel to the slot. In fact, with many brands of cope and stick sets, the fence will be perfectly positioned for the coping cut after you make the profile cut. The Coping Sled is coming up in one of the next Deep Dives...not next week, but within the next couple. Sacrificial Fences: Make them, use them, throw them away. We really shouldn't make the first set so pretty...then customers would get the idea that they really are "sacrificial".
Joe, if you have a really good drum sander, you could make up a plywood sanding sled for you sacrificial fence pieces. Trace their shape on the plywood of the same thickness and run them through the sander to skim the back sides to a uniform thickness. You could then resize other fence pieces later or even make a second pair so you can change them out as needed. I've also thought of using an good grade of UMHW to make these pieces. They, too, can wear, but at least they would be dimensionally stable.....unless your shop is on fire.
@@EnGammalAmazon Hey Mark, Your process of drum sanding the sacrificial fence is certainly worth a try. As Jeff stated, those sacrificial fences by woodpecker are so nice that you would think they would be the epitome of accuracy. I am going to take those fences and place the laminate side down on my Supermax drum sander. First I am going to use my micrometer and measure any varying thickness. I have confirmed that after removing the sacrificial fence, all the aluminum components are able to line up really well. So I know the problem is within the sacrificial fence as mentioned by Jeff. Drum sanding sounds like a really good idea. I will also mic them out after drum sanding. Thank you, Joe. ps. Along with teaching carpentry and cabinetmaking for 37 years, my machine tool background creates some critical issues for me when working with wood.
These Deep Dives are great. I am hoping they continue and go through more of your products. Perhaps you may consider doing some showing uses of your jigs and fixtures as well. I have been putting off investing in a "real" router table for quite a while, but thanks to these Deep Dives, I have now decided that your set up is well worth the investment and will save hours of "futzing" around with homemade jigs, clamps etc to get where I need to be on my projects. Thanks again.
I am fairly new to this level of woodworking and I've got to say that without these videos I would be pretty lost and would certainly miss some of the nuances of the table's capabilities. So, Thanks for posting these videos. It's still driving me nuts that the lift is not screwed down to the table surface,
@@WoodpeckersLLC I assumed so, noticing the four countersunk holes in the plate, but I could not locate the screws in any of the bags. I’ll call tomorrow and order replacements. Other than that, I’m good to go. Again, these videos are a godsend for visual learners.
After watching this video, I thought the opposite, lol. I like WP, but there are a lot of fiddly plastic pieces on this one. The Jessem is all metal and very durable.
Bingo. When I saw a bare aluminum fence and the later statement about the moisture issue with the sub fence a light came on. Even in a climate controlled shop, a caliper showed the 2 opposing edges to be thousands of an inch different in thickness. So I did what the other companies have done, install a hard maple sacrificial fence. Problem solved. Everything lined up perfect during each operation I performed over the weekend. MDF or Melamine is not a good choice for fence material. Maybe if you could really seal the edges it might help. So now my issue is solved and no more tweaking the fence to get things right. I'll use MDF when I need to create a zero clearance fence for safety. Woodpeckers may want to reconsider the material they use and follow the lead of Jessem, Maple sub fences!
Great video! Amazing quality! Not using the K.I.S.S, method by any stretch, but amazing to have if needed! Slightly discouraging for the weekend warrior but I do get it.
Yeah, definitely not for the hobbyists. Well, not if you're on a tight budget. But! For the serious craftsmen, these tools make money and save ($$$) time. Consistency and accuracy are critical in production runs.
Good afternoon guys I love your tools very much and I hope the shiping factory will be go forward I am waiting for my t squar about 3 months 🙈🙈 I know I am from Austria / Europe bud u guys do a great job and I hope I can order that router fence this December 💪🏼👍🏼💪🏼
Hello, the milling fence is super great, I have never regretted buying it. What is the name of the triangle that you use, I would like to buy it. best regards from Daniel from Germany
Jeff.... Explainer in Chief. Senior Presidential Cabinet Member. Chairman of the Boards. The Keeper of the Secrets. The Inspiration for Inspector Gadget (the serious side) All Hail Jeff.
Great for routers, now it's time to come out with one for our table saws. Would love to have a Incra but they're over the top price wise, and additionally, hard to find.
I guess I still don’t understand the benefit of an extra offset base ahead of the cutter. Why wouldn’t you just move the fence on the outfeed side of the cutter to account for the wood being trimmed off since it is already an offset base?
You can certainly do it with one offset base. If you have one on both sides you gain a little flexibility in adjustment. For example, let's say you have the outfeed fence dialed in to the router bit perfectly, but you have a piece of stock with a bow that needs a deeper depth of cut. If you have an offset module on the infeed side, you can increase the depth of cut without altering the alignment between the bit and outfeed. It's sort of like a jointer...set the outfeed to the cutter than make adjustments to the infeed. Having grown up around shapers, I'm most comfortable with the outfeed being adjustable. Rich prefers the infeed being adjustable. Both of us agree having both adjustable is like having cake with ice cream.
Use the sacrificial fence when your material and/or the pattern you're routing is prone to chip-out. Feed the sacrificial fence into the bit while it's running, then it will act as a chipbreaker for your material.
I teach router classes in a woodshop. The Woodpecker fence is very inviting but unfortunately my machines are Rockler cast-iron tops with the vacuum bins underneath and Incra lifts. I don't believe the fence will adapt. I am not willing to scrap my tables that I now have in order to purchase the Woodpecker fence. I don't see the product being adapted to my situation. I may just have to go to the best I can find from another manufacturer.
Actually, all you will need to do is drill a couple holes in the base track to match the slots in your cast iron router table. It is not a precision fit, so it isn't difficult to do correctly, even with a hand drill.
It isn't just using it as a jointer. Think about a moulding profile that cuts the entire height of the stock. That will require the outfeed fence to be adjusted out. Once the offset base is dialed in to the fence base, it should never be a problem again. When it's straight, it's straight.
Great video. Is there any need to square the red micro adjust bar? I squared the whole thing backwards to the back edge of the router table when I first did it. Also great point abt not squaring to the router plate but to the table. Then squaring the plate to the table. Thx!!
The only time the fence (and micro-adjust) have to be parallel with the table is if you're using something in the miter track. Other than that, it simply doesn't matter.
You showed squaring the vertical aluminum fence to the table but did not show the process of squaring it if it's not square. And then if you do square the vertical aluminum fence to the table and then install your sacrificial fences... what do you do if they aren't square to the table? It seems like you would indeed want to square the vertical sections of the fence while the sacrificial fences are installed because you could easily use the adjusting screws to make it so. Otherwise you'd be back to using paper shims or tape to get the sacrificial fence square to the table.
I'm thinking of buying this system to replace my old and tired Jointech system. I don't need the jointmaking capability of that system and want to go simpler but still precise. One of the best features of the Jointech was the precise micro-adjust with a large wheel and and detents every .002". I notice the knob on the Woodpeckers micro-adjuster doesn't even have a index mark on it. What is the pitch of the adjusting screw, and is a replacement knob with markings (at least representing 1/64" increments) available? By the way, bought a Tormek system from you at a show at least 15 years ago. Still working great after a bunch of upgrades. Good to see you're still around.
The screw is 32tpi. One full revolution moves the fence 1/32nd of an inch. I use a pencil to mark "12 o'clock" when I want to make an adjustment. Then I can just rub it off with my thumb to clear the surface for the next job.
The spacing between the standard mounting holes is 17 inches. If the SawStop router table has a different spacing, you would have to drill a new set of holes. Not a big deal...it's aluminum, so it drills easily.
@@SharpToolsUSA My answer 2 years ago was wrong...just saw this as were setting up to re-run. The included featherboard track makes it possible to use the featherboards with the sacrificial fences.
Sure. You will likely need to drill two holes (maybe just one) in the bottom section that line up with the tracks in your Rockler (or other) router table.
I don’t like the pins seems like a piece to lose and then your missing out. Why wouldn’t you use a milled piece with slots and ridge. If you can’t figure out the squaring of the fence should you be using a router?
A vee-groove is something that is very easy to control to a high degree of accuracy when milling. The polished steel pins are held to a very tight tolerance for diameter and straightness. The combination creates an adjustment that moves the fence perfectly straight. Not saying it couldn't be done as you suggest, but this method has proven to be a very reliable design over years of use. The pins are trapped in the offset base. You couldn't lose them without completely disassembling the entire unit.
Instead of having to buy another attachment, why not just use a micro adjuster on each fence. Also it looks like the adjustable stops do not have a micro adjust for position or for sacrificial fence thickness..
I am trying to install the Super Fence on a woodpeckers router table. I have gone through the steps in the manual and your video. The top of the outfeed fence protrudes approx 1/64” further than the infeed. Nothing that I seem to do works to gain the proper alignment. They do align at the base. What do I do to bring the fences into alignment top and bottom?
Tom. You should have set screws with green nylon tips in the mounting brackets. Use those to square the fences vertically to the table, then align the tables to each other laterally. It sounds like the top set screw on the outfeed fence may be a fuzz too far out. That said, square to the table is the first goal.
@@WoodpeckersLLC I have done that and both sides of the fence are square to the table and I now have them aligned. The is a small gap between the fence faces and the base but they are square to the table. I assume then we are good to go. Thanks for your help.
You're right, Tom. A small gap between the base track and the vertical track is not an issue if the vertical faces are square to the table and aligned to each other.
Why do you have a track in the table when the fence is not automatically parallel to it like Kreg has. Kreg is the only mfr who does this? This could be incorporated into the micro adjust structure. Anything Woodpeckers makes is super accurate. Wouldn't it make sense to keep the fence parallel to the track in the table, just sayin'.
Completely and totally unnecessary. Parallelism of a router table fence has no effect whatsoever on the depth or linearity of a cut. Stop worrying about it. Just measure the projection of the bit from the fence. The one and only time the fence needs to be parallel with the miter track is when you're using the mitre track, as in coping and tenon cuts.
is there a contact email where i can send pictures of the fence, and the mounting blocks. IT shows clearly how the mounting blocks are not square and the aluminum fence are cupped.
me too, I'm calling them tomorrow morning and will report back what happens because I didn't pay $400 for a bowed fence, I can make a bowed fence just find out of some cheap plywood I have
You're wrong about the rectangular alignment of the fence. Also with featherboards in the track the fence needs to be rectangular as the 2nd board wouldn't push the material with the same force as the 1st does. I saw some more things I don't like about the system. There's no need to have the infeed side moveable and the expensive system of having many parts instead of a single 90 degree profile with the option to adjust the depth on the outfeed side would be fairly sufficient. Also the fence doesn't need to move in longitudinal direction as the sacrificial ones will close the gap near the bit. All in all an really expensive system which doesn't convince at all. There are much better ones build by UA-camrs and probably at a 1/10 of the cost.
9:14 wow... not even using good track nuts? So intense I wonder why people pay the ridiculous prices for the Woodpecker name, and this is definitely not reassuring.
I hate to say it, due to the precise excellence Woodpeckers is known for, but this fence was not what I consider to be Woodpecker's Quality. The micro-adjust is cool, but the fence system is sorely lacking in terms of the excellence I expect from WP. I look forward to a true, precision fence in the future. Something with less play, smaller tolerances, and far... far more ingenuity. This us the one thing WP makes that can be done at home. The WP brand is special... so I feel like a router fence should be no exception.
I usually use six feather boards. The four that they showed, and two more in the way of my work, as a sort of obstacle course for my work- I find it more challenging that way.
There are not many items in woodworking more beautiful than Woodpecker’s red aluminum against the black router table. Great quality stuff. Thanks for these videos
I've had this very problem from the beginning. Extremely frustrating, so I was glad to see you made a video on it. But after going through the steps, I was still coming up with uneven fences.
Then - inspiration struck. Instead of getting the red bases even and parallel to the horizontal fence and then attaching the vertical fences, I first attached the vertical fences to the red bases. (I rested the verticals on the phenolic table top and the red bases on the horizontal fence so that the height was correct.) Then I simply pressed the vertical fences to the horizontal fence and tightened it up and for the first time - Voila! - I have a nice even fence!
Hey Jay and Jeff. As I had mentioned before in a comment, I have had the PRL-V2 Router Lift, Super Fence, Micro Adjust, Phenolic Table, and Incra CleanSweep Dust Cabinet in constant operation in my shop for over eight years. This video caused me to clean and reset my router system on a beautiful fall day on Lake Superior when I should have been outside. I disassembled all components, blew dust away, and followed your video to reset. Did not take very long. Everything lined up to a very acceptable tolerance level. As I reassembled, I kept checking the squareness. Everything lined up until I placed the sacrificial fence into position. As you mentioned, MDF can often expand and contract by thousandths of an inch and accumulative error over distance can be noticeable. I will probably shim my sacrificial fence with paper. Of course that does not mean the accuracy will be sustained over time. This was the Achilles heel in my quest for accuracy. As more components build on a system, accumulative error can develop. Beside conventional routing, I have used cabinet cutters to create hundreds of cabinet doors without error on this system. My use of a coping sled requires me to align the fence with the groove in the table. I have established that first off, your table must be flat or you will pull just about any level of machined accuracy out of alignment when secured down. The stock to be machined must also be square and flat. Remove the fence and blow out debris and dust if accuracy is diminishing. Do the same to your router. I wish this video was available when I assembled my system.. It sure would have saved a lot of time. I have always had contact and good response with the guys in tech support at Woodpeckers. The videos to support your products are a great addition. After so many years in the field, I have found Woodpeckers and SawStop have offered the greatest assistance related to their products.
Joe,
Thanks so much for the vote of confidence. With regard to coping cuts...have you looked at our coping sled? It guides off the fence and does not use the miter track. Therefore, you don't have to tweak the fence perfectly parallel to the slot. In fact, with many brands of cope and stick sets, the fence will be perfectly positioned for the coping cut after you make the profile cut. The Coping Sled is coming up in one of the next Deep Dives...not next week, but within the next couple.
Sacrificial Fences: Make them, use them, throw them away. We really shouldn't make the first set so pretty...then customers would get the idea that they really are "sacrificial".
Joe, if you have a really good drum sander, you could make up a plywood sanding sled for you sacrificial fence pieces. Trace their shape on the plywood of the same thickness and run them through the sander to skim the back sides to a uniform thickness. You could then resize other fence pieces later or even make a second pair so you can change them out as needed. I've also thought of using an good grade of UMHW to make these pieces. They, too, can wear, but at least they would be dimensionally stable.....unless your shop is on fire.
@@EnGammalAmazon Hey Mark, Your process of drum sanding the sacrificial fence is certainly worth a try. As Jeff stated, those sacrificial fences by woodpecker are so nice that you would think they would be the epitome of accuracy. I am going to take those fences and place the laminate side down on my Supermax drum sander. First I am going to use my micrometer and measure any varying thickness. I have confirmed that after removing the sacrificial fence, all the aluminum components are able to line up really well. So I know the problem is within the sacrificial fence as mentioned by Jeff. Drum sanding sounds like a really good idea. I will also mic them out after drum sanding. Thank you, Joe. ps. Along with teaching carpentry and cabinetmaking for 37 years, my machine tool background creates some critical issues for me when working with wood.
These Deep Dives are great. I am hoping they continue and go through more of your products. Perhaps you may consider doing some showing uses of your jigs and fixtures as well. I have been putting off investing in a "real" router table for quite a while, but thanks to these Deep Dives, I have now decided that your set up is well worth the investment and will save hours of "futzing" around with homemade jigs, clamps etc to get where I need to be on my projects. Thanks again.
I am fairly new to this level of woodworking and I've got to say that without these videos I would be pretty lost and would certainly miss some of the nuances of the table's capabilities. So, Thanks for posting these videos.
It's still driving me nuts that the lift is not screwed down to the table surface,
It certainly can be. The access holes are drilled in the lift.
@@WoodpeckersLLC I assumed so, noticing the four countersunk holes in the plate, but I could not locate the screws in any of the bags. I’ll call tomorrow and order replacements. Other than that, I’m good to go. Again, these videos are a godsend for visual learners.
I was going to get the JessEm Mast-r- fence but this video changed my mind!!!
After watching this video, I thought the opposite, lol. I like WP, but there are a lot of fiddly plastic pieces on this one. The Jessem is all metal and very durable.
The micro adjustment is great. I wish it would fit my Jesse Fence.
Bingo. When I saw a bare aluminum fence and the later statement about the moisture issue with the sub fence a light came on. Even in a climate controlled shop, a caliper showed the 2 opposing edges to be thousands of an inch different in thickness. So I did what the other companies have done, install a hard maple sacrificial fence. Problem solved. Everything lined up perfect during each operation I performed over the weekend. MDF or Melamine is not a good choice for fence material. Maybe if you could really seal the edges it might help. So now my issue is solved and no more tweaking the fence to get things right. I'll use MDF when I need to create a zero clearance fence for safety. Woodpeckers may want to reconsider the material they use and follow the lead of Jessem, Maple sub fences!
Thank you for responding to our questions. I’m already in my pajamas or I’d get right after getting my fence dialed in. It’s been frustrating.
i just found out about the wookpeckers line... truely gems!
Makes a lot more sense now that I have seen it in action, what a great fence.
Great video!
Amazing quality!
Not using the K.I.S.S, method by any stretch, but amazing to have if needed!
Slightly discouraging for the weekend warrior but I do get it.
Yeah, definitely not for the hobbyists. Well, not if you're on a tight budget. But! For the serious craftsmen, these tools make money and save ($$$) time. Consistency and accuracy are critical in production runs.
@7:25 ... for that price, the insert plate, table, and fence should be perfect!
Good afternoon guys I love your tools very much and I hope the shiping factory will be go forward I am waiting for my t squar about 3 months 🙈🙈 I know I am from Austria / Europe bud u guys do a great job and I hope I can order that router fence this December 💪🏼👍🏼💪🏼
WOW 👍👍 super super super ✌️✌️✌️Greeting from Germany
Just high stuff. Awesome
Hello, the milling fence is super great, I have never regretted buying it. What is the name of the triangle that you use, I would like to buy it. best regards from Daniel from Germany
That is our DelVe Square in stainless steel. www.woodpeck.com/delve-square-ss-20.html
Very nice! One question: the micro adjustment at the back can work both ways or it can only push the fence towards the cutter?
Good question, the micro adjust moves the fence both towards the cutter and away.
Impressed! Great job detailing this system..
Jeff.... Explainer in Chief. Senior Presidential Cabinet Member. Chairman of the Boards. The Keeper of the Secrets. The Inspiration for Inspector Gadget (the serious side) All Hail Jeff.
Saludos desde México. Miguel Hidalgo col. Pensil
Thank you very much
شكرًا
Great for routers, now it's time to come out with one for our table saws. Would love to have a Incra but they're over the top price wise, and additionally, hard to find.
Have you seen the wait times of late on their web site?
@@JDDupuy Yes, guess a lot of folks have $500.00 to upgrade their old fence (LoL)...
I guess I still don’t understand the benefit of an extra offset base ahead of the cutter. Why wouldn’t you just move the fence on the outfeed side of the cutter to account for the wood being trimmed off since it is already an offset base?
You can certainly do it with one offset base. If you have one on both sides you gain a little flexibility in adjustment. For example, let's say you have the outfeed fence dialed in to the router bit perfectly, but you have a piece of stock with a bow that needs a deeper depth of cut. If you have an offset module on the infeed side, you can increase the depth of cut without altering the alignment between the bit and outfeed. It's sort of like a jointer...set the outfeed to the cutter than make adjustments to the infeed. Having grown up around shapers, I'm most comfortable with the outfeed being adjustable. Rich prefers the infeed being adjustable. Both of us agree having both adjustable is like having cake with ice cream.
When would you use the sacrificial fence as opposed to just using the metal fence itself? And great video.
Use the sacrificial fence when your material and/or the pattern you're routing is prone to chip-out. Feed the sacrificial fence into the bit while it's running, then it will act as a chipbreaker for your material.
Kinda need two sets of stops with one setup for the sacrificial fence and one setup for the aluminum fence so your not fiddling between the two lol
Hola do you sell in spain?
I teach router classes in a woodshop. The Woodpecker fence is very inviting but unfortunately my machines are Rockler cast-iron tops with the vacuum bins underneath and Incra lifts. I don't believe the fence will adapt. I am not willing to scrap my tables that I now have in order to purchase the Woodpecker fence. I don't see the product being adapted to my situation. I may just have to go to the best I can find from another manufacturer.
Actually, all you will need to do is drill a couple holes in the base track to match the slots in your cast iron router table. It is not a precision fit, so it isn't difficult to do correctly, even with a hand drill.
Can I just remove the adjustable portion of the left side of the fence if I never use it as a jointer? Seems like it would eliminate one variable.
Good question. I would think so.
It isn't just using it as a jointer. Think about a moulding profile that cuts the entire height of the stock. That will require the outfeed fence to be adjusted out. Once the offset base is dialed in to the fence base, it should never be a problem again. When it's straight, it's straight.
Great video. Is there any need to square the red micro adjust bar? I squared the whole thing backwards to the back edge of the router table when I first did it. Also great point abt not squaring to the router plate but to the table. Then squaring the plate to the table. Thx!!
The only time the fence (and micro-adjust) have to be parallel with the table is if you're using something in the miter track. Other than that, it simply doesn't matter.
Ka-Chunk ... but beautiful
Can this fence & micro adjust be used or compatible with the cast iron 27” X16”sawstop router table?
You showed squaring the vertical aluminum fence to the table but did not show the process of squaring it if it's not square. And then if you do square the vertical aluminum fence to the table and then install your sacrificial fences... what do you do if they aren't square to the table? It seems like you would indeed want to square the vertical sections of the fence while the sacrificial fences are installed because you could easily use the adjusting screws to make it so. Otherwise you'd be back to using paper shims or tape to get the sacrificial fence square to the table.
Enjoyed the video, learned a thing or two. I can't find the sacrificial fence on your website. Does a pair come w/ the Super Fence purchase?
Yes, the sacrificial fences come with the Super Fence.
And! Replacements will be easily made once you have the first ones set up.
I'm thinking of buying this system to replace my old and tired Jointech system. I don't need the jointmaking capability of that system and want to go simpler but still precise. One of the best features of the Jointech was the precise micro-adjust with a large wheel and and detents every .002". I notice the knob on the Woodpeckers micro-adjuster doesn't even have a index mark on it. What is the pitch of the adjusting screw, and is a replacement knob with markings (at least representing 1/64" increments) available?
By the way, bought a Tormek system from you at a show at least 15 years ago. Still working great after a bunch of upgrades. Good to see you're still around.
The screw is 32tpi. One full revolution moves the fence 1/32nd of an inch. I use a pencil to mark "12 o'clock" when I want to make an adjustment. Then I can just rub it off with my thumb to clear the surface for the next job.
Where can I purchase one in the U.K.?
I see a gap on the left side. The sliding frame has a small gap from the base and the frame does not match up perfectly to the other frame.
Is this super fence compatible with Saw stop router table insert?
The spacing between the standard mounting holes is 17 inches. If the SawStop router table has a different spacing, you would have to drill a new set of holes. Not a big deal...it's aluminum, so it drills easily.
When the sacrificial fence is installed, is it possible to have a flip stop and feather boards installed?
Flip stop yes. Downward pressing Featherboards, no. Of course you can still have Featherboards in the table track pushing in.
@@SharpToolsUSA My answer 2 years ago was wrong...just saw this as were setting up to re-run. The included featherboard track makes it possible to use the featherboards with the sacrificial fences.
Can the fence be adapted to other tops such as Rocklers?
Sure. You will likely need to drill two holes (maybe just one) in the bottom section that line up with the tracks in your Rockler (or other) router table.
Yes. I just did it. All I had to do was drill two holes in the sub fence to fit the slots in the Rockler table top. Easy.
I don’t like the pins seems like a piece to lose and then your missing out. Why wouldn’t you use a milled piece with slots and ridge. If you can’t figure out the squaring of the fence should you be using a router?
A vee-groove is something that is very easy to control to a high degree of accuracy when milling. The polished steel pins are held to a very tight tolerance for diameter and straightness. The combination creates an adjustment that moves the fence perfectly straight. Not saying it couldn't be done as you suggest, but this method has proven to be a very reliable design over years of use. The pins are trapped in the offset base. You couldn't lose them without completely disassembling the entire unit.
@@WoodpeckersLLC sounds reasonable. As I reread my comment it sounds pretty rude sorry about that.
Instead of having to buy another attachment, why not just use a micro adjuster on each fence. Also it looks like the adjustable stops do not have a micro adjust for position or for sacrificial fence thickness..
I am trying to install the Super Fence on a woodpeckers router table. I have gone through the steps in the manual and your video. The top of the outfeed fence protrudes approx 1/64” further than the infeed. Nothing that I seem to do works to gain the proper alignment. They do align at the base. What do I do to bring the fences into alignment top and bottom?
Tom. You should have set screws with green nylon tips in the mounting brackets. Use those to square the fences vertically to the table, then align the tables to each other laterally. It sounds like the top set screw on the outfeed fence may be a fuzz too far out. That said, square to the table is the first goal.
@@WoodpeckersLLC thanks, I will give that a go.
@@WoodpeckersLLC I have done that and both sides of the fence are square to the table and I now have them aligned. The is a small gap between the fence faces and the base but they are square to the table. I assume then we are good to go. Thanks for your help.
You're right, Tom. A small gap between the base track and the vertical track is not an issue if the vertical faces are square to the table and aligned to each other.
Why do you have a track in the table when the fence is not automatically parallel to it like Kreg has. Kreg is the only mfr who does this? This could be incorporated into the micro adjust structure. Anything Woodpeckers makes is super accurate. Wouldn't it make sense to keep the fence parallel to the track in the table, just sayin'.
Completely and totally unnecessary. Parallelism of a router table fence has no effect whatsoever on the depth or linearity of a cut. Stop worrying about it. Just measure the projection of the bit from the fence.
The one and only time the fence needs to be parallel with the miter track is when you're using the mitre track, as in coping and tenon cuts.
is there a contact email where i can send pictures of the fence, and the mounting blocks. IT shows clearly how the mounting blocks are not square and the aluminum fence are cupped.
customerservice@woodpeck.com
me too, I'm calling them tomorrow morning and will report back what happens because I didn't pay $400 for a bowed fence, I can make a bowed fence just find out of some cheap plywood I have
Who keeps punching Jay Mowter in his eyes? Stop beating that dude up he seem nice
You're wrong about the rectangular alignment of the fence. Also with featherboards in the track the fence needs to be rectangular as the 2nd board wouldn't push the material with the same force as the 1st does. I saw some more things I don't like about the system. There's no need to have the infeed side moveable and the expensive system of having many parts instead of a single 90 degree profile with the option to adjust the depth on the outfeed side would be fairly sufficient. Also the fence doesn't need to move in longitudinal direction as the sacrificial ones will close the gap near the bit. All in all an really expensive system which doesn't convince at all. There are much better ones build by UA-camrs and probably at a 1/10 of the cost.
9:14 wow... not even using good track nuts? So intense I wonder why people pay the ridiculous prices for the Woodpecker name, and this is definitely not reassuring.
I hate to say it, due to the precise excellence Woodpeckers is known for, but this fence was not what I consider to be Woodpecker's Quality.
The micro-adjust is cool, but the fence system is sorely lacking in terms of the excellence I expect from WP.
I look forward to a true, precision fence in the future. Something with less play, smaller tolerances, and far... far more ingenuity. This us the one thing WP makes that can be done at home. The WP brand is special... so I feel like a router fence should be no exception.
Well done but does seem a little complicated
Way to complicated for me.....i like a simple old fashioned fence
Comparing this to JessEm - like Lego VS Porche.