If you value surfing and your well being, SoCal isn't an option in this age. Gotta move somewhere else. Off season Rincon is beautiful tho. I doubt that will ever get crowded.
To me that is the highest moral crime. You do not have the soul required to be a true surfer, whereas it is so sacred to you that you cant even imagine just stuffing someone. Yeah you surf, you might even rip, but you suck, and you know that. Takes a special breed I guess. L
(3:05) I like it when the footage shows the movement of the crowd right before catching the wave. Good positioning and always alert pay off the efforts!
That's about as perfect as that place gets but the crowd can make things dangerous. I know 2 very experienced surfers who were hurt there pretty bad from collisions. One of them had surfed there since the early 60s. That injury started him on a health downslide leading to his passing. P.s. great footage with the best song the Stones ever made to accompany it.
This is why ppl need to respect the right of way and not snake. Ppl have been injured and killed.....by careless kooks that think they surf. Don't snake! Save lives in the water 🌊💪👍🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊🌊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was thinking the exact same thing about that song. I was a 18 year old SoCal surfer in 1971 and that was the soundtrack. Can't You Hear Me Knocking on the album Sticky Fingers, 1971.
Connor you’re a natural and proven great. Keep up the good work thank you for the upload! I’ve been drydocked and it was good for the soul to see the boys getting some good ones while I’m out. (Would’ve been watching from the kiddie bowl anyway)
A couple really great rides andsurfing hidden in plain view on some amazing surf in this edit. Definitely worth wading through the too crowded conditions and wipeouts to see the good stuff...perfect soundtrack too.
Every single one of you were a kook at one time and some of you still are...Yes even I claimed Kook status once upon a time. So some of you need to lighten up. Enjoy the wave, it's a beautiful thing for all of us to enjoy.
Agree with the second half. I don't think beginner = kook. A beginner who has respect for the lineup and etiquette is far less of a kook than an intermediate-advanced surfer who drops in, snakes, back paddles, and brings a bad attitude to the lineup. My nipples are soo hard yess daddy I like that
My favorite Stones song, and there's lots. I read somewhere Mick just wanted to keep playing so they kept the tape rolling. Too many other good breaks around to suffer that kind of crowd. Regardless, one of the hollowest days there I've ever seen
Great waves, a few nice rides, and way too many guys in the water vying for a spot. I surfed Swami's long, long ago and loved the place. Stayed at the Log Cabin Motel and had cheap meals at a nearby fast food place. I'm sure those places disappeared many years ago.
2 cents - I see lots of comments on surfing etiquette and very few who actually spend years and decades of their lives surfing that break. From someone who’s been surfing there for 30 years since I was 5; the single worst thing that the Johnny-come-lately surfers do is instinctively paddle straight for the channel when the solid waves roll through the reef. The type of s%#t that legitimately gets you kicked out from any break wherever real surfing rules apply. Long boarders, mid-lengths and 5’11”’s I’ve seen the worst fuckery of COWARDS paddling to the channel to avoid a 6’ faced barreling wave and completely ruining a man’s perfectly placed tube ride. Paddle to the north if you’re caught inside trying for scraps and take it like a man. Anyone caught trashing the man we all look up too is putting the locals on notice. You’re doing us a favor.
I don't live that way anymore I haven't for a long time but when I do business down that way everytime I look at it there's like one guy in the water that can surf the rest just seem to be falling all over the place crazy
comment section is pathetic, why is surf just a bunch of sour dudes who think that they are the world's gift to surfing? it's a dance with nature, just enjoy your ride and run over who's in the way :)
Back in the day before cell phone rats you would get a beat down when you snaked someone. Let's implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake. Worked back then.🤙💪🍻🦆🌊👍
@@JunkWorld-Junk-Removal I just hope I’m there to watch when rubber ducky is out to “implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake”. Heavy claim!
Not sure such perfect waves are even worth it with that crowd. I surfed all over California for years but moved to Idaho. I miss those waves but not a crowd like that one
@@rubberducky9925 merp, ya the lil barrel is NOT an Uppers thing, it does happen. but again...where is this?? Not many options with that view and space in the OC. 🌊🤩
Never thought such beautiful waves would be soo nauseating to watch...burners and heroes fill the screen..Out of words..
I grew up there surfing and this is the worst it has ever been. Broke my board the night before and decided I would film the circus show
If you value surfing and your well being, SoCal isn't an option in this age. Gotta move somewhere else. Off season Rincon is beautiful tho. I doubt that will ever get crowded.
I didn't see anyone.
Great music for once. Nice of the Stones to let you use their song ;)
khabbalist muzac
Nice waves, Nice song! Everything Nice!!!!!!
Damn the fleas are out 😉 love the music 🎼🎶 must be lot more old school 🏄 postings keep them coming 🤙
The most polite surfers," Dropping -in", Thanks Sucks.
To me that is the highest moral crime. You do not have the soul required to be a true surfer, whereas it is so sacred to you that you cant even imagine just stuffing someone. Yeah you surf, you might even rip, but you suck, and you know that. Takes a special breed I guess. L
Circumstances have left me away from being out there all I need is just one of those set wave just one
(3:05) I like it when the footage shows the movement of the crowd right before catching the wave.
Good positioning and always alert pay off the efforts!
What a time to be alive!
Right on 😎😎😎😎✌️🎺
Nice waves...but I've never seen so many kooks out at one break in my life 🤣🤣
Great music. Perfect day… I love my town!
Encinitas Locals 👍🌊🦆🍻
That's about as perfect as that place gets but the crowd can make things dangerous. I know 2 very experienced surfers who were hurt there pretty bad from collisions. One of them had surfed there since the early 60s. That injury started him on a health downslide leading to his passing.
P.s. great footage with the best song the Stones ever made to accompany it.
damm thats so sad.
Sorry to hear that man 🙏🏻
This is why ppl need to respect the right of way and not snake. Ppl have been injured and killed.....by careless kooks that think they surf. Don't snake! Save lives in the water 🌊💪👍🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊🌊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was thinking the exact same thing about that song. I was a 18 year old SoCal surfer in 1971 and that was the soundtrack.
Can't You Hear Me Knocking on the album Sticky Fingers, 1971.
An injury from a surfing collision basically led to death? Damn! Can you go into a little more detail what happened, if you don't mind.
Insane! I'm very impressed by those waves😎
Excellent footage/ edit!
Sick! Great choice on the music. I've never seen Swami's that perfect.
then you having been in the game very long
The backsider with the long hair who's riding a board way too small for those conditions is probably a vegan.
Zach Flores lol
😂😂😂
what makes you say that
I surfed for 53 years Ventura/Santa Barbara I quit 15 years ago back surgery. I had the best you can have the rest.
I'm 50 still surfing La Jolla, Seaside, Oceanside. Sometimes Santa Barbara. Keep surfing till you die 👍🌊💪🌞🤙🤙
I quit due to crowds like this one. Surfed my brains out from ‘71-2002
@@marcduncan139 Good for you brotha!
I just had to watch this one more time what an awesome day you can get going so fast out there on days like this
Swamii's is one of my favorite waves.
' swarmies' thats a good one. Thanks kevin.
Regular day in Santa Cruz
Connor you’re a natural and proven great. Keep up the good work thank you for the upload! I’ve been drydocked and it was good for the soul to see the boys getting some good ones while I’m out. (Would’ve been watching from the kiddie bowl anyway)
Sick edit!
Thanks man!
Swarmies! Only saw 1 dude that can surf!
Good call Slater...
kook fest as always
Naw bro, like 3 maybe
Nice conditions.🤓
Barrel dodgers
Wow it's epic Swami's thanks for the video
Nice Footage, The Stones, Fred and Barney.
A couple really great rides andsurfing hidden in plain view on some amazing surf in this edit. Definitely worth wading through the too crowded conditions and wipeouts to see the good stuff...perfect soundtrack too.
Will you be out there for this insane upcoming swell?
Sweet sesh, killer beats
You gotta love California!
Every single one of you were a kook at one time and some of you still are...Yes even I claimed Kook status once upon a time. So some of you need to lighten up. Enjoy the wave, it's a beautiful thing for all of us to enjoy.
Agree with the second half. I don't think beginner = kook. A beginner who has respect for the lineup and etiquette is far less of a kook than an intermediate-advanced surfer who drops in, snakes, back paddles, and brings a bad attitude to the lineup. My nipples are soo hard yess daddy I like that
great vibes, irie vibrations jaa bless!
Wow..some epic waves going to relative waste for the most part.
2:22 two snakes on the same wave. Yup that's Swami's. 🤣
waves can't be perfect when there are 50 guys out
Hahaha very true
It's Swamis man, if there are less than 50 guys out it isn't working.
Swarmies.
Epik swell and sick ass barrels on this day..
Sick!!
that ride at 1:12 was amazing
Perfect for my moonraker
My favorite Stones song, and there's lots. I read somewhere Mick just wanted to keep playing so they kept the tape rolling. Too many other good breaks around to suffer that kind of crowd. Regardless, one of the hollowest days there I've ever seen
I'm pretty sure that wasn't the stones.
Great waves, a few nice rides, and way too many guys in the water vying for a spot. I surfed Swami's long, long ago and loved the place. Stayed at the Log Cabin Motel and had cheap meals at a nearby fast food place. I'm sure those places disappeared many years ago.
Shhhhh
@@expedition2698 What, did I give away some secret?
@@surfwriter8461 nah I’m just kidding. Cuz ya know it’s always so crowded and stuff
2 cents - I see lots of comments on surfing etiquette and very few who actually spend years and decades of their lives surfing that break.
From someone who’s been surfing there for 30 years since I was 5; the single worst thing that the Johnny-come-lately surfers do is instinctively paddle straight for the channel when the solid waves roll through the reef. The type of s%#t that legitimately gets you kicked out from any break wherever real surfing rules apply.
Long boarders, mid-lengths and 5’11”’s I’ve seen the worst fuckery of COWARDS paddling to the channel to avoid a 6’ faced barreling wave and completely ruining a man’s perfectly placed tube ride. Paddle to the north if you’re caught inside trying for scraps and take it like a man. Anyone caught trashing the man we all look up too is putting the locals on notice. You’re doing us a favor.
Remember going out there in the 70s. Surf like that but hardly anybody out.
Quality !
“All I need are some tasty waves”…
KSN crew…LA 🤘🏼
The Stones jamming for a surf movie . CHOICE .
I don't live that way anymore I haven't for a long time but when I do business down that way everytime I look at it there's like one guy in the water that can surf the rest just seem to be falling all over the place crazy
best swamis I have seen; surfers need to not drop in on another and eat the whitewater when someone is on the wave. crazy circus ruining perfect surf.
@@connerkeck777 I surfed it about 2× overhead at night, Christmas Eve, going into Christmas... It was pretty epic.
Stones and local motion fun fest.
Pumpin!!
Nice waves, what are all those plasma donors doing floating in the water?
That was a nasty burn at 2:22+…. but a great ride
He’s been surfing out there longer than most of those people have been alive. If you surfed out there you would know exactly who he is!
@@connerkeck777 long enough feel entitled to other people's wave lol
Damn, Tourmo lookin pretty good
Kooksville. That one decent surfer must have had a ball!
The tool known as Zeke.
comment section is pathetic, why is surf just a bunch of sour dudes who think that they are the world's gift to surfing? it's a dance with nature, just enjoy your ride and run over who's in the way :)
funny
lower trussels, by the look of it?
Yes
looks like a bunch of seals
Southern Cal can get very good.
Tourmaline
Seal Beach was graced by the GOAT, KS11 during that swell
Law Street going off.
Who’s the goofyfoot on the purple fish? Buttery.
Zach Flores
1:36 - knee crumple. hope that dude is OK.
yea that hurt my knees watching that one
Ouch! Looks worse in slo mo.
Waaay too many people. Makes for wave greed and poor choice of takeoff point on an already shifty break. Sad to watch, truth be told… .
looks like swams at its best
my god.. so many cheese dix & buoys
swarmis
*KOOK @ **2:25**.*
TYPICAL Swammi’s Kook maneuver.
blows my mind someone would do this. how do you not see the guy?
Back in the day before cell phone rats you would get a beat down when you snaked someone. Let's implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake. Worked back then.🤙💪🍻🦆🌊👍
just imagine what it will look like in 10 years.
He exposed himself as someone who’s never been in the pack on a good day. B. I. gets any wave he wants
@@spoonclink5822 thank you
@@JunkWorld-Junk-Removal I just hope I’m there to watch when rubber ducky is out to “implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake”. Heavy claim!
Yeah. Let’s implimant raw.
Somos demasiados.
Kook Convention
When their tubed and people drop in or paddle out in front of them that sucks.
Place is too easy to paddle out. Keeps the lineup full of kooks.
Not sure such perfect waves are even worth it with that crowd. I surfed all over California for years but moved to Idaho. I miss those waves but not a crowd like that one
Do people ever go left here?
Rad
Nice, looks a lot like Uppers, but...maybe Churches...
Not even close.. Treasles is such a weak wave.
@@rubberducky9925 merp, ya the lil barrel is NOT an Uppers thing, it does happen. but again...where is this?? Not many options with that view and space in the OC. 🌊🤩
Oh please, again. It's a singular 'Church'! Stop the misinformation!
@@barclaysauers255 lol, you probably never even surfed it. 😘
@@SeniorMoostacho Probably before you were born. Now you are 2 for 2 but don't let that stop ya!
Cold blooded at 2:26. Oof.
2:51 !!
Only two guys out...
Looks like Swamis.
all the kooks are from the IE guaranteed
Snake City
Swarmis!
Probably my fave wave in SoCal … insert tiresome complaint about overcrowding here ____________
Looks like Swamiis
The only time this place is good is when it has size.
Geez, everyone's out of position on the first one...
Swarmis.
Shoulder hopping snakebirds! Shameful.
Kooks and transplants
CAPSLOCK ON UA-cam ALERT
1:58 zeke&destroy 🤘🏻