Excellent paintjob, looks -as you say- factory or better than factory. Appreciate the tips on masking a lot. I didnt expect that you do so much work to the casting itself, but it makes sense. Thank you!
Good to hear from you again, I value your content. Please don't be a stranger to UA-cam, the time and effort you invest in sharing you knowledge is a benefit to us all.
The thing is, after you have been taught general engineering principles, and gained hand's on experience over many years, you know what is top quality work, and what is slap dash or bodge work. Your work is always top quality, thank you for sharing your skills.
EVERY casting project I ever painted has quickly chipped at the painted/functional surface junctions. Now I know why. Thank you very much!! Also, thank you for reminding this mere mortal that there is absolutely no magic or speedy way to do high quality finish work.
Love it, "I'm starting the sanding process with 240 grit". Most people I know would consider that the finish sanding process. But the end results speak for themselves, those tables look much better than new.
This is an amazing video Alex! I am a firm believer in good paint so much so that i have a few years of projects waiting on paint. I really like your approach to this and the reasonings behind it. Thank you !
I find a delta sander is very handy for getting into corners and restricted sots. They won't get everywhere but they do help a lot. I also find that using a vacuum dust extractor connected to the sander (old household vac is good for small jobs) rather than the sanders provided filter is much more efficient at collecting dust and also makes the sandpaper last much longer. Also they are not as aggressive as orbital or circular sanders.
This has made be want to restore my mill again. Repainted the top housing when I rebuilt the head. Had such a problem with it I never did the rest of the machine. You filler idea is much better than the putty type I was using. Will have to wait until I can setup a proper spray gun to do it properly
Excellent video, Alex! Thanks for making it; very helpful. I think people who don't understand why you must do these things will never understand, no matter how you explain it! :) It is in your soul, or it is not!
I enjoyed and liked this video the first time I watched it. Now, I'm studying it for all the details. I find myself with a new old lathe, a Monarch CK12. Hopefully I will be able to do something like your fine job
Incredible work and really appreciate the level of detail you go to, not only in the work you do but also in taking the time to explain all the details. I learnt a lot. Thanks.
I wish I'd seen this before finishing my lathe project. Things turned out very nice, but it would have turned out even better if I'd used some of your techniques!
One should never have to apologise for wanting things to look as good as they work. Things that look good, but not flash or trashy, are a sign of taste!
Very good job, I bet that looks actually better than when it was first painted. I'm surprised you didn't use the scotch-brite pads earlier, especially for those darn concave areas, They come in so many gits.
Funny store I bought a old craftsman lathe used it for 15 years came across a big better lathe. So I decided to clean up the craftsman to sell it and sprayed it down with degreaser and pressure washed it and all the krylon rebuild that was on it came off leaving perfectly preserved factory paint. Sold it for $350 more than I payed for it.
I put a lot of work into the first couple of machines I acquired... then realized the error of my ways after the first few chips and dings. But hey , it's your time, and you have done a fabulous job ;-)
Do you do your way scraping before paint or paint and then scrape the ways? It is a bit insane to paint a tool to that standard but it’s your tool, your time, your money so you get to do it your way. And they look awesome and I’m sure the haters are secretly jealous. Thanks for providing paint data in the video description! Love your work Alex, wish you did more but it’s obvious that months of work go into each one.
I've watched this video quite some time ago and just again today. I'm acquiring older machining equipment of various paint colors. My plan is to apply the same techniques as you displayed on all my machinery, but also choose an appropriate common finish color for all the machines, as I want a common color scheme in my home shop. Your technique to strip and repaint will be applied, but I'm still struggling to select a final color for all. I am leaning to an off white, but certainly want to avoid the traditional dark Grey. Any suggestions are welcomed. Thank you.
Very beautiful result. You do not have to convince us why to reach this level of finishing. Who spend so much effort and pay attention in reconditionning and leave a machine in poor aspect ? Please stay healthy for future videos: some extra protection and vacuum sanding is welcome.
Wonderful video. If you were to repaint an entire large machine tool, would you still use a scraper or use another tool when working far from precision surfaces?
Outstanding, this video appears one day after I finish repainting my lathe 😃 No, you aren't stupid. Having clean and nice looking machine tools motivates me not to take shortcuts in my work.
Great work! Would you mind sharing the exact names and brands of paints you used? I´m in the process of painting my lathe and had planned to use colours by MIPA. I would love to know what you used and if that may be an better alternative for me. Thanks
Holy shit those look so good! I love it and I love the machine grey. I built a sander/grinder and had the body shop match the handle to my Bridgeport. Well they were pretty far off. Next time I use it I’m gonna try to add a little white
Awesome video. You make a lot of great points about the details of the prep work. As a fellow V13 owner, I think you should do an indepth video on it. Your likes, and dislikes. There's not a lot of info out there on how great they really are!
Amazing job. I restore old machinery part time and have never seen the brush on primer here in Canada. What is the specific industry that product is used in? Can’t seem to find it anywhere.
What type of paint did you use? I presume no primer was needed? I used good quality 2K paint from cans in the past but used a primer on the cast lathe parts.
When you talkd of "silicone cleaner", I'm guessing you mean something like Mipa Silikonentferner (Silicone remover)? Is that because it has good cleaning properties, even when there is no silicone product to remove?
Good point! The term "silicone cleaner" (as used by painters) refers to a very clean and mild type of solvent that is used to degrease the surfaces to be painted. There are several types on the market, from ethanol-water mix to the more common pure hydrocarbon types. Actually I cannot tell you why this particular term is commonly used, the process has not much to do with silicone.
Excellent video, as usual. Quick question - where do you get your scraper blades? I have a bunch of hand scraping to do and I'm getting a bit fed up with resharpening HSS, I think it's time I made up a new scraper with a carbide blade.
This answer may not be helpful, but it is what it is: I got a handful of flat pieces of carbide years ago from a friend who worked at a carbide manufacturer. These blanks may outlast my lifetime. Only thing I had to do was to grind the cutting edge shape/radius. ATB, Alex
@@anengineersfindings Thanks, Alex. My original plan was to use a busted carbide slitting saw I have lying about, I think that's what I'll end up doing unless I find a real score on some "proper" scraper blades.
Alex, where can I get a carbide hand scraper from? They are like unicorn horns here in the UK, I have been looking on and off for the better part of 2 years and a ground down file really does not cut that well. Thanks.
Hello Mr. Doodson, I just checked if I had a spare blade to give to you. Unfortunately I have only one spare left of the handful that a friend gave me about ten years ago. So I'm having a hard time parting with this last one, I hope you can understand. However, I do know that the German brand Rennsteig sells carbide scraper blades, maybe you can find a source for that in the UK. ATB, Alex
@@anengineersfindings Alex, many thanks for your recommendation of Rennsteig scrapers. I have managed to order two and some spare tips from Amazon of all places. Hopefully should be here over the next couple of weeks.
Oh yeah, another newbie tip - grey primer then top coating with grey can be confusing for gauging coverage. Try using black primer. It's easier to see when you have good coverage.
If anyone else is doing this - and you find you're get brush strokes in the surface after it's cured, add about 10-15% {appropriate to your product} reducer/thinner. The 'slow' version preferably unless you're getting runs in the finish (then go up to medium or fast). This will allow the product to flow out more and become level. Working on a surface that's about 20* C helps flow out as well.
I've been forced to move my workshop, I'm going to take the opportunity to re-paint the lathes, pillar drills, bench vices and worktable legs all the same colour.
stripping chemical gel makes miracles. I repainted from the bare metal a 1954 surface grinder. On the column I had to apply the gel 4 times to strip so many layers and filler. Way less work than your way.
For stripping using chemicals, lye is very cheap and does not hurt cast iron. I used an immersion heater, a container and I could strip entire parts, such as the ribbed underside of my milling table very quickly. Working with lye requires safety equipment, gloves and eye protection!! You know you are dealing with lye if your fingers get the lye solution on them and they feel slippery, that's the oil in your skin being saponified.
Excellent video, BUT…the first thing I noticed was the absence of a face mask when paint stripping/chipping/sanding….even though you can’t see it when chipping, fine dust particles are still created, and old paints often were lead based….HIGHLY TOXIC…..STAY SAFE..👍 I always use an etch primer first…good adhesion to the metal, and to subsequent coats…
You might want to know that brake cleaner is good for the initial clean, but not before paint. You should use a final wipe of something like acetone, alcohol 99%+, ... Because brakecleaner contains a minute amount of acid (I think is the cause if I remember) which could lead to imperfections like bubbles, adherence issues, ... I recently repainted my machine and did loads of research before hand. I also have experienced the issues I read about when I did another machine years ago. Though take this with a grain of salt; i am merely a perfectionist amateur with an internet connection
Excellent paintjob, looks -as you say- factory or better than factory. Appreciate the tips on masking a lot.
I didnt expect that you do so much work to the casting itself, but it makes sense.
Thank you!
The moral of this video: There are no shortcuts to an excellent result
Good to hear from you again, I value your content. Please don't be a stranger to UA-cam, the time and effort you invest in sharing you knowledge is a benefit to us all.
The thing is, after you have been taught general engineering principles, and gained hand's on experience over many years, you know what is top quality work, and what is slap dash or bodge work. Your work is always top quality, thank you for sharing your skills.
What a great video. Another reason to repaint stuff is…. “I like to have nice stuff” it may work fine, but its also nice that it looks good.
Yes. For some reason, everyone understands that cars (and their owners) benefit from perfect paint jobs, but they don't extend that to machine tools.
Forth one that is very important … having pride in your work. That makes a craftsman. As you said.. people notice that..
EVERY casting project I ever painted has quickly chipped at the painted/functional surface junctions. Now I know why. Thank you very much!! Also, thank you for reminding this mere mortal that there is absolutely no magic or speedy way to do high quality finish work.
Glad you could make use of some of the information in the video. Thanks for your kind comment.
Excellent video as always, thanks for taking the time to share it! That paint turned out phenomenal.
Love it, "I'm starting the sanding process with 240 grit". Most people I know would consider that the finish sanding process. But the end results speak for themselves, those tables look much better than new.
The smooth shiny finish shows your pride in your work !
Clean tools are much easier to work with.
Great job.
Excellent! Thank you. Nice to see a young guy taking the time to do it right!
Painting is the least of the work that goes into a paint job. It's a lot of work and only those that have done it can understand. Great work!
Painting is 95% priming, filling and sanding, beer brewing is 95% cleaning, and welding is 95% cutting, grinding and clamping 🙂
This is an amazing video Alex! I am a firm believer in good paint so much so that i have a few years of projects waiting on paint. I really like your approach to this and the reasonings behind it. Thank you !
I find a delta sander is very handy for getting into corners and restricted sots. They won't get everywhere but they do help a lot. I also find that using a vacuum dust extractor connected to the sander (old household vac is good for small jobs) rather than the sanders provided filter is much more efficient at collecting dust and also makes the sandpaper last much longer. Also they are not as aggressive as orbital or circular sanders.
this video is so full of good details.... is far far better than factory
Excellent. Now I’m gonna watch your Mikron video again for the 10th time.
:D oh man, my most badly edited video that is.... But thanks for your interest!
I always learn so much from your videos, thank you for putting so much effort into them. Charles
Glad you like them!
some great tips here - i would not have thought of chamfering the edges of the painted areas, but it makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the wisdom!
So many hints about your approach to life contained in this video. Thanks for sharing.
This has made be want to restore my mill again. Repainted the top housing when I rebuilt the head. Had such a problem with it I never did the rest of the machine. You filler idea is much better than the putty type I was using. Will have to wait until I can setup a proper spray gun to do it properly
Excellent video, Alex! Thanks for making it; very helpful.
I think people who don't understand why you must do these things will never understand, no matter how you explain it! :) It is in your soul, or it is not!
Holy cow that is some really nice paintwork. Definitely a ton of work and a joy to use and clean with pride. 👍👍😎👍👍
I enjoyed and liked this video the first time I watched it. Now, I'm studying it for all the details. I find myself with a new old lathe, a Monarch CK12. Hopefully I will be able to do something like your fine job
I love your videos! I enjoy trying to do what you do. I'm not as good but I have many tools which continue to serve me and most importantly, I enjoy.
you taking a paint job to a whole new level ! wel done sir !
Yes, that's definitely how an engineer paints things! Excellent results.
Such a nice paint job.
Beautiful job.
Looks better than new.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Beautiful work, thanks for making the video.
Your work is excellent as always. I learn something each time you put out a video which is really appreciated.
Incredible work and really appreciate the level of detail you go to, not only in the work you do but also in taking the time to explain all the details. I learnt a lot. Thanks.
I wish I'd seen this before finishing my lathe project. Things turned out very nice, but it would have turned out even better if I'd used some of your techniques!
I'm never going to do this but thoroughly enjoyed this video.
Great to see you back!
Hey, thanks!
I restore a lot of antiques and our methodologies are very similar. Nice work.
One should never have to apologise for wanting things to look as good as they work. Things that look good, but not flash or trashy, are a sign of taste!
Very good job, I bet that looks actually better than when it was first painted. I'm surprised you didn't use the scotch-brite pads earlier, especially for those darn concave areas, They come in so many gits.
Excellent video, but please show the next job on that beautiful Walter rotary table. Thanks
Time and effort well-spent indeed. Perhaps as I go through each of my little machines I'll treat them similarly.
Funny store I bought a old craftsman lathe used it for 15 years came across a big better lathe. So I decided to clean up the craftsman to sell it and sprayed it down with degreaser and pressure washed it and all the krylon rebuild that was on it came off leaving perfectly preserved factory paint. Sold it for $350 more than I payed for it.
Thank you for sharing your process - it's clearly been well thought out and thoroughly tested. The results are outstanding!
I put a lot of work into the first couple of machines I acquired... then realized the error of my ways after the first few chips and dings.
But hey , it's your time, and you have done a fabulous job ;-)
Absolutely beautiful job. Looks better than new👍🏻
I'm watching.... I have a 1955 Loch lathe to re-finish, started on it, looking for your "Tips & Tricks" ...
Do you do your way scraping before paint or paint and then scrape the ways? It is a bit insane to paint a tool to that standard but it’s your tool, your time, your money so you get to do it your way. And they look awesome and I’m sure the haters are secretly jealous. Thanks for providing paint data in the video description! Love your work Alex, wish you did more but it’s obvious that months of work go into each one.
I've watched this video quite some time ago and just again today. I'm acquiring older machining equipment of various paint colors. My plan is to apply the same techniques as you displayed on all my machinery, but also choose an appropriate common finish color for all the machines, as I want a common color scheme in my home shop. Your technique to strip and repaint will be applied, but I'm still struggling to select a final color for all. I am leaning to an off white, but certainly want to avoid the traditional dark Grey. Any suggestions are welcomed. Thank you.
Great video Alex! We need more content from you!
Exactly what I need, thank you very much! Need to watch this later after work.
Glad to see you back Alex! 😊
Very beautiful result. You do not have to convince us why to reach this level of finishing. Who spend so much effort and pay attention in reconditionning and leave a machine in poor aspect ?
Please stay healthy for future videos: some extra protection and vacuum sanding is welcome.
Nicely done.
Very nice.I definitely would want more information if you wouldn’t mind, like where you got your scrapers & etc.
Fantastic job man. Wow
Nice workmanship
Aren't grinding in same room with lathe a big no no due to grinding dust?
Wonderful video. If you were to repaint an entire large machine tool, would you still use a scraper or use another tool when working far from precision surfaces?
Well you can always go further and polish it afterwards😅
Btw whats the RAL code of that color?
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
Nice finish. Well done!
Outstanding, this video appears one day after I finish repainting my lathe 😃
No, you aren't stupid. Having clean and nice looking machine tools motivates me not to take shortcuts in my work.
Great work!
Would you mind sharing the exact names and brands of paints you used?
I´m in the process of painting my lathe and had planned to use colours by MIPA. I would love to know what you used and if that may be an better alternative for me.
Thanks
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
@@anengineersfindings Dankeschön!
Holy shit those look so good! I love it and I love the machine grey. I built a sander/grinder and had the body shop match the handle to my Bridgeport. Well they were pretty far off. Next time I use it I’m gonna try to add a little white
But wow you did a fabulous job!!!
What is the paint code and/or what color is that? I was asking the paint shop for machine grey but they couldn’t find it. Thanks
I completely agree with you, if it's being done,do it perfectly !!!!!
Glad to see you back!
Awesome video. You make a lot of great points about the details of the prep work.
As a fellow V13 owner, I think you should do an indepth video on it. Your likes, and dislikes. There's not a lot of info out there on how great they really are!
Thanks for your comment, Stefan Gotteswinter also suggests me to make a V13 tour and review. It is definitely on the list!
Fantastic Alex, thank you. Can you share the finish paint colour please? is it RAL 7023 by any chance?
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
Great job as usual!, hello from Australia 🇦🇺. Why don't you use a guide coat when sanding?
Renzetti level stuff!
Amazing job. I restore old machinery part time and have never seen the brush on primer here in Canada. What is the specific industry that product is used in? Can’t seem to find it anywhere.
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
What type of paint did you use? I presume no primer was needed? I used good quality 2K paint from cans in the past but used a primer on the cast lathe parts.
When you talkd of "silicone cleaner", I'm guessing you mean something like Mipa Silikonentferner (Silicone remover)?
Is that because it has good cleaning properties, even when there is no silicone product to remove?
Good point! The term "silicone cleaner" (as used by painters) refers to a very clean and mild type of solvent that is used to degrease the surfaces to be painted. There are several types on the market, from ethanol-water mix to the more common pure hydrocarbon types. Actually I cannot tell you why this particular term is commonly used, the process has not much to do with silicone.
That's the theme from vice grip garage's channel....
Looks better than original! Good job!
Excellent video, as usual.
Quick question - where do you get your scraper blades? I have a bunch of hand scraping to do and I'm getting a bit fed up with resharpening HSS, I think it's time I made up a new scraper with a carbide blade.
This answer may not be helpful, but it is what it is: I got a handful of flat pieces of carbide years ago from a friend who worked at a carbide manufacturer. These blanks may outlast my lifetime. Only thing I had to do was to grind the cutting edge shape/radius. ATB, Alex
@@anengineersfindings Thanks, Alex. My original plan was to use a busted carbide slitting saw I have lying about, I think that's what I'll end up doing unless I find a real score on some "proper" scraper blades.
Beautiful job Alex! :)
Fume issues wiht the hardener?
Thanks for the video Alex. What's the model number on the Walter rotary table? Size looks perfect.
Hi! My Walter is a RTL320 type. Size is good, but it's hefty.
Gut gemacht, saubere Arbeit!
Yes inspiring. Good information thank you
Alex, where can I get a carbide hand scraper from? They are like unicorn horns here in the UK, I have been looking on and off for the better part of 2 years and a ground down file really does not cut that well. Thanks.
Hello Mr. Doodson, I just checked if I had a spare blade to give to you. Unfortunately I have only one spare left of the handful that a friend gave me about ten years ago. So I'm having a hard time parting with this last one, I hope you can understand. However, I do know that the German brand Rennsteig sells carbide scraper blades, maybe you can find a source for that in the UK. ATB, Alex
@@anengineersfindings Alex, many thanks for your recommendation of Rennsteig scrapers. I have managed to order two and some spare tips from Amazon of all places. Hopefully should be here over the next couple of weeks.
@@billdoodson4232 Glad if that hint worked out for you. 😃 AtB, Alex
Klasse Arbeit, Alex.
Oh yeah, another newbie tip - grey primer then top coating with grey can be confusing for gauging coverage. Try using black primer. It's easier to see when you have good coverage.
Really great video. Thanks for the tutorial. Sub’d and inspired!
I wasn't saying that, I was saying, "Damn, those are beautiful!"
If anyone else is doing this - and you find you're get brush strokes in the surface after it's cured, add about 10-15% {appropriate to your product} reducer/thinner. The 'slow' version preferably unless you're getting runs in the finish (then go up to medium or fast). This will allow the product to flow out more and become level. Working on a surface that's about 20* C helps flow out as well.
Can't get brush strokes if it sprayed on eh !
Very nice
BTW, can you give me the name of the primer/filler product and the paint type? probably available in 🇩🇪 ??
Nice, nice work!
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
@@anengineersfindings thanks viele!
I've been forced to move my workshop, I'm going to take the opportunity to re-paint the lathes, pillar drills, bench vices and worktable legs all the same colour.
Does the finish grey colour paint you use have an RAL number ? If yes please share the RAL number.
Please see the updated video description, thanks.
Does electrolysis remove paint?
stripping chemical gel makes miracles. I repainted from the bare metal a 1954 surface grinder. On the column I had to apply the gel 4 times to strip so many layers and filler. Way less work than your way.
For stripping using chemicals, lye is very cheap and does not hurt cast iron. I used an immersion heater, a container and I could strip entire parts, such as the ribbed underside of my milling table very quickly. Working with lye requires safety equipment, gloves and eye protection!! You know you are dealing with lye if your fingers get the lye solution on them and they feel slippery, that's the oil in your skin being saponified.
2k acryllic paint? That's new a one to me!
Beautiful!
Awesome video man Im definitely subscribing and I think a lot of other people are going to as well.
Beautiful
Excellent
Yes
Excellent video, BUT…the first thing I noticed was the absence of a face mask when paint stripping/chipping/sanding….even though you can’t see it when chipping, fine dust particles are still created, and old paints often were lead based….HIGHLY TOXIC…..STAY SAFE..👍
I always use an etch primer first…good adhesion to the metal, and to subsequent coats…
Quality 👌🏼
those 2 part automotive paints are epoxy or urethane, not acrylic.
Nice job. But to much work for me … lucky for me , my customers doesn’t come to my shop to see the chiped paint on all the stuff 😂😂
You might want to know that brake cleaner is good for the initial clean, but not before paint. You should use a final wipe of something like acetone, alcohol 99%+, ... Because brakecleaner contains a minute amount of acid (I think is the cause if I remember) which could lead to imperfections like bubbles, adherence issues, ... I recently repainted my machine and did loads of research before hand. I also have experienced the issues I read about when I did another machine years ago. Though take this with a grain of salt; i am merely a perfectionist amateur with an internet connection