That explanation (and demo) made the whole thing so obvious and simple, but also the 1st time I've seen it on any channel. Brilliant hack to add to the tool box. Thanks Matt. 👍
What is the sync speed of your main camera?? See my full course at www.mattgranger.com/ocf Gear used (Amazon links) Camera: Nikon D200: geni.us/d200 Lens 50mm: geni.us/Aa9c Cheapo flash: geni.us/vokngflsh light stand: geni.us/manf5001b softbox: geni.us/godoxSB Triggers (NOT budget): geni.us/zMQ2FSe
May work with Nikon, doesn't work with other brands. Pentax for example, camera doesn't send signal to fire unless HSS equipped flash or trigger is attached. @Matt - (not sure where I read this, but,..) Some part of HSS is more about syncing the flash to the sensor scanning, not just the shutter leaf movement. Terminator Genesis is cited as a prime example of where a muzzle flash can be seen across the bottom of one scanned frame, and the top of the next frame. This is also why HSS needs to be applied when the Electronic Shutter is used for silent operation.
I tried the trick shown ny Andrew Boey, but it didn't work for me for Shutter Speeds of 1/1000 or even 1/500. I tried it with Canon EOS 80 D and two Godox TT 520ii Flashes (one as a Master & another as a Slave) the first time. Second time I tried it with TT 520ii (as a Master) & TT 685C (as a Slave).
Hi Matt, Although I have newer HSS Flashes, I have a Yongnuo YN622C-TX E-TTL and a Yongnuo YN622C (Although they are Canon versions, they also come for Nikon YN622N instad of C). These triggers have an SS (Super Sync) Mode that allows my old non HSS Flashes to shoot at up to 1/8000 sec. The SS Mode creates a delay of some sorts that makes the flash output for a longer time. Put the flash on top of the YN622N Module and set to Full Power, Put the YN622N-TX on the Camera and set the flash group in SS Mode. Now you can take a shot at 1/8000 with your old flash, no black bars :-)
That’s pretty neat! I was aware of the issues in the studio, but never really thought about how it wouldn’t really affect the background outdoors! Thanks for the great tip! And hi Steph!
Another good way to do this is use a Speedlite that supports HSS,and buy the bracket that allows you to fit your softbox onto it. Not expensive and you're in full control
You can actually break sync speed right up to 1/5000 and so on by using your camera's flash as the master and your off camera flash in slave mode and simply set in camera and off camera flash to full power. At full power the flash stays on longer, allowing faster shutter speeds without the curtain interfering. Only down fall is that your only control over flash light strength is to move closer of further from your subject.
I did a quick staff photo for a local business a few weeks ago where I had only brought a single speedlight and no ND filter. I used this method to let me shoot at a bigger aperture and 1/400 of a second. Kind of funny that you posted a video about this. Now I don't feel like such a hack knowing that at least one other person has done this ;) Good video Matt.
Nice realistic approach! This is something gear oriented camera-hobbyists sometimes cannot see at all. Nicely done. What about the sync speed. It is perhaps bit philosophical, but that is actually the cameas shutters fastest mechanical speed. As after that there is gimmick to make is "faster" what it is not, sync-speed is always the cameras shutters fastest speed. You can have faster speed on certain part of frame, but as globally on whole frame, that is THE speed. Rarely that is a problem, but still: that is a fact.
Great tip Matt. I had tried to mess around with this concept before. On my flashes I can manually control the frequency of pulses and was going to try work out some calculations where the pulse frequency matched the shutter speeds above 1/200, Unfortunately once a flash is connected to my DSLR Nikon D5500, shutter speeds above 1/200 are firmware disabled so it's just not possible to apply this hack. I have also tried this with remote triggers but its stil the same. Anything over 1/200 is disabled in camera. :-(
This is a good video and I especially like the hack of turning the camera to compose in portrait orientation. I think this will only work with certain camera bodies, mostly much older ones. My D3100, for example, locks the shutter at 1/200th when a flash is activated or attached. The same applies to my D7200, locking at 1/250th, but that body will work with a flash with HSS.
Another way to hack the HSS look without a lot of the gear is to use an HSS speedlite on camera to optically trigger your other lights whether they are strobes or other speedlites.
This is a very good tip. It really does take some planning though. I got a similar effect using ND filters with flash which i was really pleased with. But I really like this method, provided the framing works out.
Even though I don't do portraits and very rarely use any kind of flash (camera doesn't have one and my old flashes work, but as far as I know not with ttl and such) I still learnt something, up till today I've always thought it was the other way around, that 1/250th is the maximum speed and any faster won't work :-) it all makes sense now, thanks for a great video Matt!
PocketWizard have a feature called Hypersync that alters the flash trigger time so the whole flash duration is mapped better relative to shutter curtain travel. This defeats High Speed Sync that needs pulsating flashes at reduced power. Disclaimers and compatibility apply.
waw, that was superinteresting, i never knew a flash could make such a difference, i realy like how the model the model is put away from the background
Please more videos of flashphotography where we can see the background exposure first and then with flash added. It helps amateurs like me to understand how the flash photos are exposed in different situation and looks!
He explains it pretty well in this one and has many more flash videos on his channel. Just search the channel for "flash". ua-cam.com/video/ibHXIyAsxog/v-deo.html
But the pocket wizard doesn't supply the functionality of the video. I have 2 sets of $14 wireless neewer triggers that I use. Anything he is doing here, I can do with my triggers. Now, if he starts talking about changing the power and altering sync speeds with the triggers, then we have a problem. But their function in this video to just trigger the flash, which can be done on a budget.
Hmmm another little trick to remember, cheers Matt, (although I think my D750 gives me a black line at the bottom not the top)(or am I just holding my camera wrong ? hee hee )
If you use an optical trigger with a sync cable you can beat it then as well, allegedly the flash gets the message a nano second faster. I’ve seen it done, but it isn’t as pretty as hss by a long way.
How about budget Strobes like the Neewer F3-500, How to set it up for use with Nikon and/or Canon cameras and for HSS as well. The remote trigger I find somewhat complicated to try and configure and the manual, which was apparently translated from Chineese to English..badly... is no help. I believe it's the same trigger used in the F1-400 Strobe as well and maybe a few others.
That's a solid tip! I had done something similar in the past with a full-frame camera by setting it to APS-C crop mode, but the idea to use an open area around the close subject and selective framing is a great idea.
This did not address the title of the video. This just showed how to still take a good picture with the side-effects of going pat 1/250th, but it did not show "how to go past" your camera's sync speed. My camera literally will not allow me to increase the speed beyond 1/250...it just stops there. I can't force it to go any faster. Showing "how" to do that is what's showing "how to go past the camera's sync speed". Please re-title the video and the description so it's more accurate for people searching for this info. Current description: "Today we show you how to go past your camera's sync speed..."
This does NOT WORK on Pentax, since camera will not give any signal to flash if 1/180 is exceeded. The only way is to attach HSS capable flash or Cactuss V6ii trigger that emulates HSS flash and camera does trigger flash up to 1/8000 than.
@@angelisone NO, it will not allow more than 1/180 if anything non HSS is attached to hotshoe. If Cactus V6ii is attached to hotshoe than it will allow flash to fire beyond X-sync, but it will not sync at all - black image - if HSS is not enabled. But V6ii have so called "power sync" where flash fires at full power and that enables eny flash (non HSS) to go up to 1/8000. So the basinc answer still valid: Trick in the video does NOT work on Pentax. Never did.
@5:15 please wear two mics (one on each side - like: on each lapel) or you could try using one stereo mic in the center of your shirt (in line with your adam's apple) but that wouldn't be as good...so we don't get this terrible recording quality. Even using tons of audio signal compression is not going to fix this completely, and remember: every time you use compression you raise the noise floor because of the makeup gain used post compression. If you have good audio processing you can set it up to balance the signal between the two mic sources (it might be called "side chain") so it will in effect even out the level so it doesn't get louder or quieter as he turns his head. Then use the compression on that resultant signal and voila' - you have a much better sound quality. This is the problem with most video engineers, they don't know sound engineering. But then - I don't know the first thing about color grading so we all need to help each other out. ;-) Cheers!
High speed sync with any camera Speed lights have a unique feature compared to traditional studio strobes, The flash duration can be extremely short or long in this example the long flash duration is what you want. With the speed light at full power output it has the longest flash duration which is typically around one 500th of a second so if you have a shutter speed of say 1/1000 of a second the strobe light is on twice as long as the shutter is opened there for no banding occurs. You could go as high as your cameras maximum shutter speed and experience the same phenomena so long as the shutter speed is faster than the flash duration time this trick will always work.
Leaf shutters do not have the synchronization problem that focal plane shutters (curtain shutters) have. But every strobe or flash has a maximum flash duration and as you can set e.g. 1/500 sec exp time, you run the risk of cutting flash light off. A Nikon SB-910 has 1/880 sec as fastest time. If your leaf shutter is faster ...
You are amazing! This solved a problem I've had for months and no one could answer it. perfect timing as well! Shalom
That explanation (and demo) made the whole thing so obvious and simple, but also the 1st time I've seen it on any channel. Brilliant hack to add to the tool box. Thanks Matt. 👍
What is the sync speed of your main camera??
See my full course at www.mattgranger.com/ocf
Gear used (Amazon links)
Camera: Nikon D200: geni.us/d200
Lens 50mm: geni.us/Aa9c
Cheapo flash: geni.us/vokngflsh
light stand: geni.us/manf5001b
softbox: geni.us/godoxSB
Triggers (NOT budget): geni.us/zMQ2FSe
1/250 on the D7100
1/200 on canon 5d mark iv, so pretty much can't use it in studio for kids photography. Unless they are sleeping.
Pure Genius. 5 years into Photography and never thought of this. ND Filter and HSS has always been on rescue but Man, this is worth a try.
Budgetography rocks! Most photographers think we are all millionaires. Shrills for their sponsors. Thanks, Matt for what you do.
May work with Nikon, doesn't work with other brands.
Pentax for example, camera doesn't send signal to fire unless HSS equipped flash or trigger is attached.
@Matt - (not sure where I read this, but,..) Some part of HSS is more about syncing the flash to the sensor scanning, not just the shutter leaf movement.
Terminator Genesis is cited as a prime example of where a muzzle flash can be seen across the bottom of one scanned frame, and the top of the next frame.
This is also why HSS needs to be applied when the Electronic Shutter is used for silent operation.
Andrew Boey also has a HSS trick. You can go all the way to 1/8000 and you don't get the black bar. I've tried it and it works for me.
I tried the trick shown ny Andrew Boey, but it didn't work for me for Shutter Speeds of 1/1000 or even 1/500.
I tried it with Canon EOS 80 D and two Godox TT 520ii Flashes (one as a Master & another as a Slave) the first time.
Second time I tried it with TT 520ii (as a Master) & TT 685C (as a Slave).
Hi Matt, Although I have newer HSS Flashes, I have a Yongnuo YN622C-TX E-TTL and a Yongnuo YN622C (Although they are Canon versions, they also come for Nikon YN622N instad of C). These triggers have an SS (Super Sync) Mode that allows my old non HSS Flashes to shoot at up to 1/8000 sec. The SS Mode creates a delay of some sorts that makes the flash output for a longer time. Put the flash on top of the YN622N Module and set to Full Power, Put the YN622N-TX on the Camera and set the flash group in SS Mode. Now you can take a shot at 1/8000 with your old flash, no black bars :-)
I have watched all most all your videos ..all are very informative
Well, I certainly hadn't thought of that. I'll be trying it outside for sure. Thanks for the tip. Also, yay for budgetography! 👍
This was very helpful. Thank you for creating this video. I understood sync speed so well, after so many years.. thank you 🙂
Great tip to make the framing bigger to avoid dull section over the subject.
This is an awesome hack! Thanks Matt!
Thank you Matt for the helpful tip! I'll give it a try! God bless and good luck!
That’s pretty neat! I was aware of the issues in the studio, but never really thought about how it wouldn’t really affect the background outdoors! Thanks for the great tip! And hi Steph!
Thank you for giving us an idea to play around more with the flash speed sync!
You should do one where you use ND filters to "simulate" a higher shutter speed. And Other ND filter tricks.
Yeah, i've used this trick and I like the result. I would like to see other ND filter tricks that can be done.
cool tip but why you had to pull my man like that tho? 9:36
Why is that dark shadow (gradient) from the top and not from the bottom? I have never seen it from the top. Is it because of camera model?
Simple but super useful , it can save you in a pinch, and with super high resolution cameras even more , crop it’s no an issue in more cases
Another good way to do this is use a Speedlite that supports HSS,and buy the bracket that allows you to fit your softbox onto it. Not expensive and you're in full control
You can actually break sync speed right up to 1/5000 and so on by using your camera's flash as the master and your off camera flash in slave mode and simply set in camera and off camera flash to full power. At full power the flash stays on longer, allowing faster shutter speeds without the curtain interfering. Only down fall is that your only control over flash light strength is to move closer of further from your subject.
and you arent getting full power from it. The slave sync is likely to not be reliable either
I did a quick staff photo for a local business a few weeks ago where I had only brought a single speedlight and no ND filter. I used this method to let me shoot at a bigger aperture and 1/400 of a second. Kind of funny that you posted a video about this. Now I don't feel like such a hack knowing that at least one other person has done this ;) Good video Matt.
Christian Slater’s new avant-garde role as an Australian UA-cam photography instructor
Thanks Matt! Good Stuff; Can you do something on Outdoor Flash Budget Shoot please
I experienced that blockage few days ago. I took down the speed and it made sense. I was glad I identified the problem.
Nice realistic approach! This is something gear oriented camera-hobbyists sometimes cannot see at all. Nicely done. What about the sync speed. It is perhaps bit philosophical, but that is actually the cameas shutters fastest mechanical speed. As after that there is gimmick to make is "faster" what it is not, sync-speed is always the cameras shutters fastest speed. You can have faster speed on certain part of frame, but as globally on whole frame, that is THE speed. Rarely that is a problem, but still: that is a fact.
Great tip Matt. I had tried to mess around with this concept before. On my flashes I can manually control the frequency of pulses and was going to try work out some calculations where the pulse frequency matched the shutter speeds above 1/200, Unfortunately once a flash is connected to my DSLR Nikon D5500, shutter speeds above 1/200 are firmware disabled so it's just not possible to apply this hack.
I have also tried this with remote triggers but its stil the same. Anything over 1/200 is disabled in camera. :-(
That was actually a good tip 😊
That was actually a compliment! Thanks
This is a good video and I especially like the hack of turning the camera to compose in portrait orientation. I think this will only work with certain camera bodies, mostly much older ones. My D3100, for example, locks the shutter at 1/200th when a flash is activated or attached. The same applies to my D7200, locking at 1/250th, but that body will work with a flash with HSS.
Steph has amazing skin. Direct hard light rarely looks flattering if you don't have good skin
thanks Matt, good tip
From that Nikon guy to now, you always seem to select the best models, with the best personalities.
Cool, I love these kind of videos with you and Steph!
Another way to hack the HSS look without a lot of the gear is to use an HSS speedlite on camera to optically trigger your other lights whether they are strobes or other speedlites.
Tyler Barton That won't work. Optical slaves only fire once.
I never thought of that.
How are you able yo get your shutter past 1/250 with the flash ? My A7iii won't let me do it for some reason
Liked this a lot. Always nice to learn some options for flash.
This is a very good tip. It really does take some planning though. I got a similar effect using ND filters with flash which i was really pleased with. But I really like this method, provided the framing works out.
Even though I don't do portraits and very rarely use any kind of flash (camera doesn't have one and my old flashes work, but as far as I know not with ttl and such) I still learnt something, up till today I've always thought it was the other way around, that 1/250th is the maximum speed and any faster won't work :-) it all makes sense now, thanks for a great video Matt!
Wow, awesome hack, gotta try that. Thanks for the tip. Images started getting sharper too. I guess like anything, you needed to warm up!
PocketWizard have a feature called Hypersync that alters the flash trigger time so the whole flash duration is mapped better relative to shutter curtain travel. This defeats High Speed Sync that needs pulsating flashes at reduced power. Disclaimers and compatibility apply.
JP dJ or you just buy a cheap godox/commander combo for less thanntheblrice of a set of pocket wizards.
Thank You for a great video. Could You please introduce Hyper Sync? With cheap manual flash?
A very nice video. I will try this once.
Thanks Matt ! 👍👍
Thanks for this but show me the hack for syncing at sunny day and F2.8 and no HSS.....
ND filter. Done.
waw, that was superinteresting, i never knew a flash could make such a difference, i realy like how the model the model is put away from the background
ordered a yongnuo hss speedlite and forgot about the softbox!thanks for reminding me!
thanks Matt, great tip !!!! Steph is sooo charmingggg !!!!
FINALLY! Budgetography is back 👏
Please more videos of flashphotography where we can see the background exposure first and then with flash added. It helps amateurs like me to understand how the flash photos are exposed in different situation and looks!
He explains it pretty well in this one and has many more flash videos on his channel. Just search the channel for "flash". ua-cam.com/video/ibHXIyAsxog/v-deo.html
Zumba Zimba just search for. Fill Flash
Yes I know, but I said I want _more_ :D
Budgetography with Pocket Wizard radio triggers? They would cost more than the rest of the kit put together
He probably couldn't find the "poverty wizard" triggers after the move. They are probably still packed away in a box somewhere. 😛
Gene Waddle Matt has probably thrown them into his Australian dust bin when he hit the big time
Just use what you can get, it's not about what he's using exactly
zagan1 i agree with you, but the point of this video series is budgetography, Pocket Wizards are premiumtography
But the pocket wizard doesn't supply the functionality of the video. I have 2 sets of $14 wireless neewer triggers that I use. Anything he is doing here, I can do with my triggers. Now, if he starts talking about changing the power and altering sync speeds with the triggers, then we have a problem. But their function in this video to just trigger the flash, which can be done on a budget.
Very cool idea! Thanks for the tip!
And nice jump Steph!
Nice one Matt.
Great, thanks Matt! Great tip, charismatic talent, and if she keeps coming back, I will too 😋
Hmmm another little trick to remember, cheers Matt, (although I think my D750 gives me a black line at the bottom not the top)(or am I just holding my camera wrong ? hee hee )
If you use an optical trigger with a sync cable you can beat it then as well, allegedly the flash gets the message a nano second faster. I’ve seen it done, but it isn’t as pretty as hss by a long way.
Hello matt which speed light flash would you recommend for my Nikon D750 ? Please i am waiting for suggestion? Thank you
Excellent. Educational, practical and well taught.
My camera does not allow me to go over 1/250 . I am using D850. Please help
Your subject standing there she is real happy entertaining ..❤️
Doess hss flash need a high end camera to be compatible?
How about budget Strobes like the Neewer F3-500, How to set it up for use with Nikon and/or Canon cameras and for HSS as well.
The remote trigger I find somewhat complicated to try and configure and the manual, which was apparently translated from Chineese to English..badly... is no help.
I believe it's the same trigger used in the F1-400 Strobe as well and maybe a few others.
Such a smart idea, brilliant. Thank you
That's a solid tip! I had done something similar in the past with a full-frame camera by setting it to APS-C crop mode, but the idea to use an open area around the close subject and selective framing is a great idea.
Man, never occurred to me to try this, great tip!! Thank you!
How about if you lock the mirror use life view it would have the same effect. Thanks if you can answer me Matt God bless.
I hadn’t thought of this, thanks a lot!
A lense adapter episode would be cool, like how much you have to spend for certain levels of quality/features
Would it work on nikon D5300
Cool tip! I'll be remembering that for future reference.
How about second curtain flash sync? Is that a possible video with the camera's limitations?
Thanks,
..Joe
love the flash holder you got there :D
Super hack 👏👏👏👏
This did not address the title of the video. This just showed how to still take a good picture with the side-effects of going pat 1/250th, but it did not show "how to go past" your camera's sync speed. My camera literally will not allow me to increase the speed beyond 1/250...it just stops there. I can't force it to go any faster. Showing "how" to do that is what's showing "how to go past the camera's sync speed". Please re-title the video and the description so it's more accurate for people searching for this info.
Current description: "Today we show you how to go past your camera's sync speed..."
Brilliant, and so simple
Is it the same Justin from Australia or just a new one?
The same. He's visiting.
Thanks!
That’s cool mate. I never thought of that but it’s so obvious now I’ve seen it 😁🤙
great idea! i'll definitely try that !
Great Job you three!! Very informative!
What a great hack, thanks for the info I will do that the next time I have a model who can jump...
Most excellent video
Amazing video! Very informative and I love this hack! Thanks Matt :)
You’ll model is very beautiful
This does NOT WORK on Pentax, since camera will not give any signal to flash if 1/180 is exceeded. The only way is to attach HSS capable flash or Cactuss V6ii trigger that emulates HSS flash and camera does trigger flash up to 1/8000 than.
Mihael Tominsek, try setting your Pentax dial to "M" and adjust the shutter speed up.
@@angelisone NO, it will not allow more than 1/180 if anything non HSS is attached to hotshoe. If Cactus V6ii is attached to hotshoe than it will allow flash to fire beyond X-sync, but it will not sync at all - black image - if HSS is not enabled. But V6ii have so called "power sync" where flash fires at full power and that enables eny flash (non HSS) to go up to 1/8000. So the basinc answer still valid: Trick in the video does NOT work on Pentax. Never did.
@5:15 please wear two mics (one on each side - like: on each lapel) or you could try using one stereo mic in the center of your shirt (in line with your adam's apple) but that wouldn't be as good...so we don't get this terrible recording quality. Even using tons of audio signal compression is not going to fix this completely, and remember: every time you use compression you raise the noise floor because of the makeup gain used post compression. If you have good audio processing you can set it up to balance the signal between the two mic sources (it might be called "side chain") so it will in effect even out the level so it doesn't get louder or quieter as he turns his head. Then use the compression on that resultant signal and voila' - you have a much better sound quality.
This is the problem with most video engineers, they don't know sound engineering. But then - I don't know the first thing about color grading so we all need to help each other out. ;-)
Cheers!
Another great video. Thanks!!!
uuu just took photos and uu never show the title of the video
great tip - never thought about this before :)
High speed sync with any camera
Speed lights have a unique feature compared to traditional studio strobes, The flash duration can be extremely short or long in this example the long flash duration is what you want. With the speed light at full power output it has the longest flash duration which is typically around one 500th of a second so if you have a shutter speed of say 1/1000 of a second the strobe light is on twice as long as the shutter is opened there for no banding occurs. You could go as high as your cameras maximum shutter speed and experience the same phenomena so long as the shutter speed is faster than the flash duration time this trick will always work.
It's a good tip, but you can get an HSS speed light from godox for $100 ish bucks these days.
can i use hsc with old film camera?
Test it out. What works will depend on the camera
why isnt the photos not sharp ?
My camera is a leaf shutter,would it be the same?
No but you shouldn't be limited by flash sync speed anyway
Leaf shutters do not have the synchronization problem that focal plane shutters (curtain shutters) have. But every strobe or flash has a maximum flash duration and as you can set e.g. 1/500 sec exp time, you run the risk of cutting flash light off. A Nikon SB-910 has 1/880 sec as fastest time. If your leaf shutter is faster ...
Thanks 🙏 a million
Now I understand why i kept getting a white bar thru my photos the other day...hmmm
Great stuff Matt!
Do mirrorless cameras have the same issue?
Hieu Tran most use focal plane shutters, so yes.
It was a good day - I learnt something. Thank you very much. :)
Thank you for explaining! Now I know why it's half light, haha I thought my speed light is broken.
Didnt know Christian Slater was doing gear review now ☺