Change Spark Plugs on 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Easy How To & Walk-through)
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2016
- Step by Step walk through to change spark plugs on 2.5 L boxer engine in 2014 Subaru Forester. Recommend to change every 60 k and replace with iridium plugs.
NGK (Part # 93482)
Autolite (Part # XP5683)
Champion (Part # 9412)
CHANGE SPARK PLUGS
HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS FORESTER
HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS SUBARU
HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS SUBARU FORESTER
HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS 2.5 L
Chrisfix
Thunderhead289
Ericthecarguy - Авто та транспорт
Nice video. Did the job today on my 2014 Forester. A couple tips. Do the passenger side first. Is easier and you will need the practice for the other side. Remove the airbox on the passenger side. You DO NOT have to disconnect the coil from the boot on this side and you can't mix them up do to wire length differences. Blow out the spark plug hole before removing the spark plugs. Stuff a towel between engine and fram rail. You WILL drop stuff! Use ONLY OEM spark plugs (NGK SILZKAR7B11 Iridium). Check the gap. Of 4 spark plugs, 3 were undergapped. Be careful on regapping not to damage the Iridium tips. Put everything back together and start the car for one minute. Should be smooth. Now go to the drivers side. Remove the battery and case. The front spark plug can be left connected to the coil. Unbolt coil and let it droop. The REAR coil pack must be disconnected to get out the boot. Behind and above the rear coil is some hose bracketry. Remove the brackets because it lets you approach the coil from the rear. This is the tough plug to remove. I used a 14mm spark plug w/wobble and a one inch extension, see below. Got it done. Recommend this from Amazon for this job Eastyard 14mm Thin Wall Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 3/8-Inch Drive 12-Point
Huge Thank You to you for this video. I did my plugs in in the drive way in less than 1.5 hours no problems. To hold the plugs in the 14mm deep well, I just used one piece of masking tape, taped inside of the socket, and that worked super good for giving enough tension to hold the plug in the socket for all four of them (eight really, 4 old out, and 4 new in). Also, I followed a tip from BuffWrench's channel and got some "wobble end" 3/8 extensions from HF - Totally worth it for the job - worked so amazingly well.
I am amazed to find out alot of people HV misconception on dielectric grease. It is an insulator
can you imagine if it were a conductor? it would short and destroy so many electronics
Great video, thank you. Not as bad as I thought without removing the battery or air cleaner box. Glad I had a bunch of different 1/4" an 3/8" ratchet extensions and a good pen magnet to pull out disconnect sockets and the plugs themselves. Also used a 3" piece of fuel line to screw in the plugs.
You're better than me. I'm a little guy and still struggled to get my hand in there so I removed the battery. Well done sir!
Just changed on my wife's 2014, just remove the battery, i didn't even bother trying with it in place. Made it way easier. Just have to remember to relearn the idle if you do. Very helpful video.
You remind me of myself working on a car - and in the dark... good job.
When removing those I personally use the coil pack and pop it on the loosened plug and pull the whole thing out. I’m careful to not damage any of the threads or anything but it’s a pretty easy and simple way of not needing extra stuff to remove it or anything
I changed plugs in my 2014 Forester today (90K miles). Plugs were still within spec., and looked ok. What a chore! 2 suggestions to help. First, take out 10 mm bolts with a 1/4 in. socket. Second, use the old piece of fuel line trick to take out the plugs after loosening and when putting the new ones in. (Third, if you've got $328 to spare...spend it!)
Great how too video. I've got a 2016 Forester with 53,000 miles. With your video as a guide, I may try to change the plugs myself between now and 60,000... Thanks!
Questions: The manufacturer of the NGK SILZKAR7B11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug that I bought says not to use the Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant. That it is built into the plug and using it could make it so overtightening could occur. Do you have an opinion on that? Did you tighten to specs with a torque wrench, or just tighten by feel?
My 2014 Subaru Forester stalls when celerating and I hope this is all I need to do as of now lol thanks for the video, I know how to do it myself, and the timing belts etc..now I need to find out where the transmission fluid container at
One tip on these; if you change oil at regular intervals, and use a good synthetic, you can use the shorter oil filter which will allow the engine to build oil pressure sooner (less rattling at start up). The short filter has ample media area. Also, check your service bulletin on using anti-seize on the plugs, and if you must, use a copper base. Longer than 2 second crank times will tell you when it's ready for plugs. Great video, thanks.
Never use anti seize on spark plugs!!!!!
Thank you sir this came in real handy 💪🏾 I just Liked and subscribed 💯👍🏾
I just replaced the spark plugs on my 2014 Forester. The spark plug wires do not have to be replaced. You will not be able to buy these wires at your auto stores. To begin you will need a 10mm socket for taking the bolts off the spark plug boots. Then you will need a 9/16" socket to take the spark plugs out. You will definitely need a 2" socket extension too. I had to take the air intake assembly of the passenger side off to get better access to the bolt and plugs on the passenger side. If you don't, you will not have good enough space to get to the bolt and plugs on that side. One other tool that help me tremendously was a telescopic magnetic tool. This tool help me pull the socket extension and spark plugs out of the plug openings. You will thank me later. Good luck.
Nice job, however for Japanese cars always use NGK. I wouldn't use autolite regardless of being double platinum nor iridium.
Just my opinion. Thanks for sharing!
wow - nice job...... and u didn't even remove the battery or air filters for easier access. love to see also a toyota battery in a subie - LOL !
It's much easier to remove the battery and battery box on 2015/16 Subaru 2.5. You can remove the rear Driver side coil easier by pulling the wire clip and unplugging the coil. Then you can pull the boot and rotate the whole coil around so the coil is facing up. I did research on newer spark plugs and you do not use anti seize on the plugs because they already have a coating from the manufacturer's. They all use this method now. You DO NOT have to Jack up the engine to get the coil out on the driver side. None of the other coils need to be unplugged. It WILL be harder to get the 10 mm bolt back in because the coil wire from the front coil interferes with setting the coil back in . You can use a large screw driver to press the coil snugly up against the valve cover, just dont get crazy. Just enough to get the 10 mm bolt started. If you drop a bolt into the engine plastic pan, you will have to remove a 12mm bolt and the darts from the side of the pan and pry it down enough to get a magnetic stick in to fish out the bolt.
I too have a 2014 Subaru Forester I have a form of electrical device that keeps a corrosion from happening it kind of works of a reverse polarity a lot of ships and stuff have this device to prevent Forester the corrosion from the ship it also works good on vehicles as well you might want to try it out research it
Is it commercially available or did you make it yourself. I would be interested in details on it.
@@C2H6Garage I've looked into this and saw bad test results, if there is such a thing with good test results I'd be interested too.
That’s a old gimmick. Jc Whitney used to sell that junk as well
How do you know how much should I tighten them?
Good vid. My daughter has a 2014 Forrester and it starts but just dies unless the excellerator is pushed while starting.
Plugs are old. Should I start there?
HAVE 56K MILES ON MINE, WILL BE DOING THIS SOON.
Autolight plugs in place of NGK..?
I don't understand why everyone claims use anti seize but all instructional manuals have big warnings "Do Not Use Any Anti Seize or Lubricants". So which is it? Use or don't? I have seen plugs that have came loose before and can wear the head. Guess I've never been able to make my mind up on that. Is this something that's an old practice that people do still from times of old iron heads that use to rust more? Will they get stuck in an aluminum head bad enough it'll strip the threads or something or only a convenience? Thanks
Questions: The manufacturer of the NGK SILZKAR7B11 Laser Iridium Spark Plug that I bought says not to use the Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant. That it is built into the plug and using it could make it so overtightening could occur. Do you have an opinion on that? Did you tighten to specs with a torque wrench, or just tighten by feel?
If it says don't use it,then dont,chances are,it already has a coating. Many do now days.
Anti seize can also cause the sparkplug to not have enough ground and can cause a weak spark issue. Good vid though
Milk of magnesia is a great anti-seize for spark plugs in aluminum heads, and a lot easier to use and clean up
This will be my first time to replace spark plugs - as a beginner I'm wondering if you can provide some links for products on Amazon that I can reference to buy tools. Or even just confirm the list of things I need below. I just want to make sure I have what I need before I start -
You said a 3' ratchet, a 2 mm socket (6 pt, but 12 pt ok), a spark plug wrench with 9/16 socket, and extension is needed. You also referenced two fluids around 4:22 and the other around 5:25 to use for loosening or tightening (?). What are these - I couldn't quite catch the words.
Really pretty easy. A good set of 3/8" drive sockets, an extension and a swivel will do the job. I'll watch the video to confirm what is specifically needed.
Why didn't you show what a pain the back one on drivers side is to change? I'm thinking I might have to jack engine up to get to it. Subaru could have made plenty of room by notching frame rail.
Great job and video; however this kind of makes me reconsider buying a Subaru. It just seems like way too much work to replace a common regular maintenance part on these boxer engines. Especially if you have to replace them every 60k miles. Give me a regular inline 4 that only needs them done close to 100k.
You consider this too much work? Oil changes on these engines are so easy Ill take the slightly harder spark plug change.
I realize this comment is 3 years old, but if it makes you feel any better I’m watching this video to change the spark plugs for the first time on my 2014 forester with 142,000 miles. Spark plugs have never been changed and showing no signs of failure.
Seen some manuals claim to absolutely never use anti seize. Why not? Anyone ever had problems with it?
If OEM manual says don't use it, don't use it. I had two GM cars 2 years apart, one said to use anti-seize, other said don't use. Reason is, if you use antiseize when not suppose to, you will over torque them and risk stripping the threads. With Subaru's changing plugs ever 60k miles, not really worried about seizing them.
thanks for the informantion.......................... How tight do you torque the plug? Hand tight and then 1/4 turn?
I think the spec is 14 ft-lb but yes hand tight and then just a tad more. It is super hard to get a torque wrench in the space provided.
Looks like it is idling too high - at about 1800 rpm. Maybe it will rev down once it warms up, but shouldn't it idle at about 900 rpm?
Yes that was the high idle that it does when first started to try and warm itself up. it will actually go down to about 700 when it warms up.
It's a Subaru thing
to warm the Cat's up for the PZE efficiency - I hate it, but the newer 2019 foresters don't do it as bad. I think they have a servo actuated baffle to cause backpressure ... blah blah blah
to the answer to your question do you need to clean it no not really it's just that salt is real bad for a little bit of just as equally as it still is the problem with salt is it fatigues a little bit as you can see you're a little bit was all oxidized so it's not that it's just going to rust away it just kind of fatigue that metal so it's more prone to cracking and breaking
After I changed the spark plugs, the car shakes and dies down. What can I do? Or what is wrong with it? Can anyone help me?
Sounds like you didnt get a coil hooked up properly or wrong plugs
Thanks for doing it at night. 😑
this has no good view of where the spark plug and the bolt goes into because the battery was not removed.
I really liked your video it was very helpful but I couldn't help but notice that you vehicle or your agenda looks like it's been a lot of salty air
Yes it is very oxidized. Not sure why, I need to clean it.
WARNING. WARNING. WARNING. beware while using the extension, I got them blocked and stuck because of using the wrong LENGTH of extension. if you are doing it and got your stuck, too. This is what I did. Got a hand held Metal Cutter, and Blades. I got mine from Lowes (forget trying to save money from Harbor Freight, they don't work right), and Patiently cut out the extension. Try to hold the extension out with tape. It would take some time, but little by little it would come out.
How about screwing the spark plug back in and getting a different extention.
Those are bolts
For those who do not have a spark plug tool / wrench: ua-cam.com/video/0f1_cVd0JIM/v-deo.html
Internal memo to engineers from Subaru mgmt: Design a car that discourages people from doing their own maintenance.
DON'T give them any ideas. I save way to much money doing most of my own maintenance. BTW, GOD BLESS the Subie engineer(s) who came up with the oil filter placement. Genius!