You've got the Aerolux "Bird of Paradise," aka "Bird & Bouquet," aka "Bird of Happiness," hurricane-chimney shape. This particular model is a 1950s-and-later design. Also made in a round shape and in violet (in purple bulbs, the green phosphor glows much brighter due to the higher amount of argon, vs. the neon/argon mix in the pink ones). It's wonderful seeing someone repair one!
thank you for the info, im glad to know what the official name is for my bulb style! i wasn't sure if i would be able to repair it, but i figured it was worth a try. nice to having it working again!
@@NeonPreservation They're beautiful bulbs. Be on the lookout for some of the rare ones: an airplane, Reddy Kilowatt, Popeye, Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck (they had a license to make all the 1930s Disney characters, right down to Horace Horsecollar and Elmer Elephant)...
I have one of these as a memento of a friend who passed away a long time ago. I get shocks from it when I turn it on. I have a friend who can probably fix this problem. The other issue is that there is a smoky residue on the inside of the bulb! Since you mention the gas that is inside, I'm wondering if the gas is depleting and leaving the ashy type of residue. What do you think? Is there a way to restore the gas into the bulb? I'm not too hopeful as I can't see how you could inject the gas. I found it interesting to see what it looks like when you removed the metal base of the bulb. I never wanted to risk damaging it by doing that so I'm glad you've done it for me! I can't believe I found this video! Thank you for sharing your repair!
i'm glad you found the video interesting! the gas is added to the bulb through that pointed part in the very bottom; its usually covered by the socket, but you can see it on my bulb that has the socket removed. that little point is what is left of a small glass tube that was sealed off with a torch after the gas was added. if your bulb still lights up, then the inert gas is still inside so that should be fine. regarding the "ashy residue": does it look like a powder? if so, it could be phosphor powder coming off the electrodes. phosphors are made to glow in different colors (like the white powder inside a fluorescent bulb). if it looks more like a smoky black soot, then it is probably the electrodes (metal parts) sputtering. 'sputtering' happens when metal molecules get knocked off the electrodes and land on the glass. this happens as the bulb ages and creates the darkening, which slowly increases over time. it is a gentle reminder that nothing lasts forever. if you like the bulb and it makes you happy, then light it and enjoy it as a fond memory of your friend. if you would like to keep the bulb in its current condition, you can most likely find another of the same design on ebay to use as a surrogate. either way, i hope you enjoy! thank you for commenting :)
thanks! i enjoy helping people fix things and there's always more to learn!
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Question.. at the end of the video is the large steak house sign.. whats are those small rotating / directional lights called. And what causes them (a relay?) to illuminate in a given direction...
the flashing incandescent bulbs are controlled by a device called a mechanical flasher (or "chaser"). you can see examples of a couple different kinds of these devices in action in several of my other videos: Plaza Lanes #3: ua-cam.com/video/BbSjMMGVzpY/v-deo.html Vintage Signatrol: ua-cam.com/video/mRGwAQ3uMKY/v-deo.html Dundee Theater #4: ua-cam.com/video/sEafaYI3AUk/v-deo.html
hello! when i purchased the bulb, the base was already separated from the glass envelope. however, if you would like to intentionally remove a light bulb base, i can think of two ways: mechanical or chemical. using mechanical torque to twist the base off the glass envelope sounds risky to me, so i'd probably try chemicals first. a cursory search of lamp capping cement suggests some of the ingredients are calcium carbonate, rosin, & shellac. however, i am uncertain the formulation of the cement on the Aerolux bulbs. i would personally try soaking the bulb in acetic acid (vinegar) first to try to dissolve the calcium carbonate and/or other binders. if that had no effect, i would try denatured alcohol in an attempt to dissolve the rosin & shellac. as with any chemical experiment, i suggest wearing PPE and performing it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, in case of side reactions with unknown chemicals in the cement. also, the wires coming from the electrode of the bulb are likely soldered to the metal base, so you may need to use a soldering iron to desolder those joints. i hope this helps. let me know if you have any other questions. good luck!
@@NeonPreservation ahhaha working on expanding your audience I see. I appreciate you're good game! Btw... Do you know what the filament is made of? I read fosforus tungsten? Do you have any info? Thanks!
if i had to guess, i would say the filaments/electrodes are similar to a neon electrode: steel coated with a getter to absorb impurities after processing. since these are cold-cathode type bulbs (not hot-cathode or incandescent), i would venture to say that it is not tungsten. the phosphor powders are only on some areas (e.g., the green leaves), and glow when excited by the discharge of electrons from the electrodes.
@@NeonPreservation I see! The phosphor is then some type of "reactive paint" of some sort, then? As for the cold-cathode type... you mean these lightbulbs do not get hot to the touch? I just read their lifespan may be longer than hot-cathode ones; is that right? Thanks for all the info!!
the phosphor is a powder that illuminates (like in a fluorescent bulb). adding various chemicals/elements to phosphors can give different colors, and they applied them onto various parts of the electrode so those areas would glow the desired colors. you are correct about cold cathode lights; made and processed properly, they will outlast hot cathode lights.
Man, you are dangerous! It's too bad you used silicone on it. There are metallic epoxies that would conduct electricity, and you could have used some along with the brillo, to get better contact with the wires, and it would have been solid... Most likely would have had better illumination...
Also, there are two kinds of RTV: there's the common acid curing variety which will corrode the wires over time, and an electronics grade that's more expensive (it uses a platinum catalyst) that doesn't dissolve wires.
You've got the Aerolux "Bird of Paradise," aka "Bird & Bouquet," aka "Bird of Happiness," hurricane-chimney shape. This particular model is a 1950s-and-later design. Also made in a round shape and in violet (in purple bulbs, the green phosphor glows much brighter due to the higher amount of argon, vs. the neon/argon mix in the pink ones). It's wonderful seeing someone repair one!
thank you for the info, im glad to know what the official name is for my bulb style! i wasn't sure if i would be able to repair it, but i figured it was worth a try. nice to having it working again!
@@NeonPreservation They're beautiful bulbs. Be on the lookout for some of the rare ones: an airplane, Reddy Kilowatt, Popeye, Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck (they had a license to make all the 1930s Disney characters, right down to Horace Horsecollar and Elmer Elephant)...
Beautiful lamp!
I have one of these as a memento of a friend who passed away a long time ago. I get shocks from it when I turn it on. I have a friend who can probably fix this problem. The other issue is that there is a smoky residue on the inside of the bulb! Since you mention the gas that is inside, I'm wondering if the gas is depleting and leaving the ashy type of residue. What do you think? Is there a way to restore the gas into the bulb? I'm not too hopeful as I can't see how you could inject the gas. I found it interesting to see what it looks like when you removed the metal base of the bulb. I never wanted to risk damaging it by doing that so I'm glad you've done it for me! I can't believe I found this video! Thank you for sharing your repair!
i'm glad you found the video interesting! the gas is added to the bulb through that pointed part in the very bottom; its usually covered by the socket, but you can see it on my bulb that has the socket removed. that little point is what is left of a small glass tube that was sealed off with a torch after the gas was added.
if your bulb still lights up, then the inert gas is still inside so that should be fine. regarding the "ashy residue": does it look like a powder? if so, it could be phosphor powder coming off the electrodes. phosphors are made to glow in different colors (like the white powder inside a fluorescent bulb).
if it looks more like a smoky black soot, then it is probably the electrodes (metal parts) sputtering. 'sputtering' happens when metal molecules get knocked off the electrodes and land on the glass. this happens as the bulb ages and creates the darkening, which slowly increases over time. it is a gentle reminder that nothing lasts forever.
if you like the bulb and it makes you happy, then light it and enjoy it as a fond memory of your friend. if you would like to keep the bulb in its current condition, you can most likely find another of the same design on ebay to use as a surrogate.
either way, i hope you enjoy! thank you for commenting :)
Man, you're smart and helpful.
thanks! i enjoy helping people fix things and there's always more to learn!
Question.. at the end of the video is the large steak house sign.. whats are those small rotating / directional lights called. And what causes them (a relay?) to illuminate in a given direction...
the flashing incandescent bulbs are controlled by a device called a mechanical flasher (or "chaser"). you can see examples of a couple different kinds of these devices in action in several of my other videos:
Plaza Lanes #3: ua-cam.com/video/BbSjMMGVzpY/v-deo.html
Vintage Signatrol: ua-cam.com/video/mRGwAQ3uMKY/v-deo.html
Dundee Theater #4: ua-cam.com/video/sEafaYI3AUk/v-deo.html
Hello from Oregon, I have one , how did you take the bottom of the bulb off ? thanks
hello! when i purchased the bulb, the base was already separated from the glass envelope. however, if you would like to intentionally remove a light bulb base, i can think of two ways: mechanical or chemical. using mechanical torque to twist the base off the glass envelope sounds risky to me, so i'd probably try chemicals first.
a cursory search of lamp capping cement suggests some of the ingredients are calcium carbonate, rosin, & shellac. however, i am uncertain the formulation of the cement on the Aerolux bulbs. i would personally try soaking the bulb in acetic acid (vinegar) first to try to dissolve the calcium carbonate and/or other binders. if that had no effect, i would try denatured alcohol in an attempt to dissolve the rosin & shellac.
as with any chemical experiment, i suggest wearing PPE and performing it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, in case of side reactions with unknown chemicals in the cement.
also, the wires coming from the electrode of the bulb are likely soldered to the metal base, so you may need to use a soldering iron to desolder those joints.
i hope this helps. let me know if you have any other questions. good luck!
@NeonPreservation Thank you so much , might be more than I can do myself; we'll see
Testicle coil, uh? lol
haha, some people might be into that... but i'll pass.
@@NeonPreservation ahhaha working on expanding your audience I see. I appreciate you're good game!
Btw... Do you know what the filament is made of? I read fosforus tungsten? Do you have any info? Thanks!
if i had to guess, i would say the filaments/electrodes are similar to a neon electrode: steel coated with a getter to absorb impurities after processing. since these are cold-cathode type bulbs (not hot-cathode or incandescent), i would venture to say that it is not tungsten.
the phosphor powders are only on some areas (e.g., the green leaves), and glow when excited by the discharge of electrons from the electrodes.
@@NeonPreservation I see! The phosphor is then some type of "reactive paint" of some sort, then? As for the cold-cathode type... you mean these lightbulbs do not get hot to the touch? I just read their lifespan may be longer than hot-cathode ones; is that right? Thanks for all the info!!
the phosphor is a powder that illuminates (like in a fluorescent bulb). adding various chemicals/elements to phosphors can give different colors, and they applied them onto various parts of the electrode so those areas would glow the desired colors.
you are correct about cold cathode lights; made and processed properly, they will outlast hot cathode lights.
Omaha!
Man, you are dangerous! It's too bad you used silicone on it. There are metallic epoxies that would conduct electricity, and you could have used some along with the brillo, to get better contact with the wires, and it would have been solid... Most likely would have had better illumination...
metallic epoxy? nice! thanks for the tip, ill keep that in mind for future projects...
Also, there are two kinds of RTV: there's the common acid curing variety which will corrode the wires over time, and an electronics grade that's more expensive (it uses a platinum catalyst) that doesn't dissolve wires.
good to know! the RTV used on this bulb isn't in contact with any metal parts, so it shouldn't be a problem.