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Headstock Veneers- Headplates, Backstraps, and Thicknessing
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2010
- Important Note: Only taper your headstock thickness along it's length if you choose to use bushing-style tuners! Screw-down tuners with a tapered thickness headstock will result in finish de-laminations at the front edge of your tuner washers.
Another section of my video. This time on headstock veneers, front and back. It also has a nice section on thicknessing and, if you so choose, tapering headstocks.
Oh, 100% sure it would! I'm SUPER paranoid about it cupping as I've ruined a perfectly good neck like that before! Any glue without the water content (epoxy, poly, etc.) I think is a great choice for an application like this. I've been tempted to switch over to it and honestly I have no explanation as to why I haven't yet!
Fretboards I actually don't mind a little spring back on due to glue. That way, when I go to finalize my radius I'm putting a little tension on it to get it back flat. Then when strings come on there's a little more adjusting. I've found it sort of guarantees there's at least SOME tension needed on the rod when the neck is done. And I'm not a fan on rods that aren't under tension.
I use epoxy also for gluing on fretboards for the same reason instead of hot hide glue.
By all means Chris it would. Any non-moisture operated glue would; CA, epoxy, poly. I just don't like using those that much. Simply personal preference. Titebond is easy, clean, and you can't become allergic to it over time.
hey on your truss rod do you add a filler piece of wood over top the truss rod or not .thanks so much for your time in sharing info.
I used to. But in the end it ended up being way more of a pain than it was worth. I basically only did it to stop glue getting in the channel, but there are way easier ways to do that! So I stopped.
Nice job with the video and the info. Do you think epoxy would help to prevent any cupping?