I've always run my NB on 98 RON (93 AKI). Regardless of running any mods. Australia's fuel quality is pretty poor compared to the US, and I only kinda trust the 98 octane. Mazda actually recommends 95 RON as a minimum for the NB2 here. I don't know if thats because our cars make more power than the US' version, or if its due to the kinda poor fuel quality here. Like for example the base NB2 made ~152hp, whilst we didnt get the Mazdaspeed, we got the SP/SE turbo NB, which made like 210hp. Not sure why the differences in power though. I'd be interested in seeing what the differences are, but no one has really made a comparison side by side. If its just due to emission regulation differences, or something else like timing or compression.
Jeremy this is really interesting stuff. Not mentioned is that advancing the spark from 10 degree to 14 degrees before TDC increases combustion temperatures, and that increases production of nitrides of oxygen (NOX) in the exhaust. This can cause the engine to fail a smog test. One of the jobs of a catalytic converter is to remove NOX. An extra load of NOX shortens the life of the cat. CARB legal cats are about $1000 at the moment. So, in California the extra few horsepower from advanced timing comes at a price.
Everything on Flyin' Miata is always exceedingly helpful, and this vid was no exception. Learned a lot about timing the NB and I am thankful. However, I do have a question off topic of the video and about the car in the background... It's an NB, yes. It has the same spoiler on the trunk lid that mine (2001 Base) has but I have not been able to find any info about that particular spoiler. I see very few of those on the road. I was wondering if you could tell me about that design (versus the little smooth "humpy one" that I usually see), it's particulars, is it somehow special, or what? Or at least direct me to the source of all things Miata body parts. Thanks!
Sorry but I'll need more info to answer this correctly. It's probably best to head over to Miata.net which has an article on base timing miata.net/garage/ignition.html or our instructions for the adjustable timing wheel here flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/adjustable%20timing%20wheel.pdf. Thanks for watching!
hey guys, just wanted to order one of those adjustable timing wheels mentioned at the very start for my 99 N/A NB1. Small issue: my two options for shipping are both over 120USD. I'm located in Australia. Surely it cannot be that expensive for a relatively small piece such as this. I paid less shipping getting my exhaust delivered internationally. thanks
Our shipping costs are usually automatically calculated using the current shipping rates we have in our system. If you think something is incorrect, please drop us an email at support@flyinmaita.com so that one of our Customer Support Reps can research the matter. Thanks!
These things are correct, and to add, another possibility is if the fuel or timing are way off. With a supercharger, if the fuel & timing is anywhere in the safe ballpark they are less sensitive & will make what they make.
@@TIGHTENmetal Fuel is definitely richer than i'd like. 12.5 mid range and rolls to low 11's on top end. Timing is retarded about 6 degrees but that's linear, so 6 at redline.
@@ricepony33 I'd definitely be looking for some sort of leak. At higher engine/blower speeds, it's able to overcome it. A loose clamp on a post-blower pipe, for example.
To echo Key, if you can't tell then it's likely not happening. If it is happening, it will sound like a small diesel tractor (think Kubota) under load going up hill when the engine starts to lug. So on a long hill where you would normally shift down from 5th to 4th gear to maintain speed you will hear it as the motor starts to lug in 5th just before you would downshift.
Knock sensors can pick up knock before you can hear it. If you hear it, it's significant. Shaking a spray paint can is a good analogy. Also marbles in a can, or popcorn, are ways to describe it.
PLEASE ANSWER: I have coilovers that don’t have much ride height adjustability in the rear on my NB Miata. What’s the best solution for filling in the negative preload I receive from maxing out the ride height? Because it only goes as low as I want when I have about a -1.5inches of preload. And the car has been sitting unevenly from me taking the wheels on and off and readjusting ride height but I just can’t get it even without going back to the stock ride height. Should I buy new coilovers? Tender/helper springs? I’m tearing up the internet looking for answers but no luck please help!
"Negative preload" is a new one! If you're looking for something to keep pressure on the unloaded springs so they stay in place, you need helper springs. You could also potentially use longer primary springs. As for sitting unevenly, the best way to get in the ballpark is to set the perches in the same place on each side. Keep in mind that the car won't sit properly on the suspension until you roll it. See our cornerweighting video for some more details.
Flyin' Miata That’d be perfect except I can’t find any NB helper springs anywhere. I see flyin Miata sells them for the NA. Shouldn’t the NA helpers fit fine, especially since most coilovers that fit an NA are also compatible with the NB ?
We're truly sorry for any delays in email replies. Every customer is important and we are working hard to reply to every e-mail we get. Currently we are receiving a much larger than normal volume of e-mails and unfortunately it can be over a week to reply in some instances. If you have a time sensitive question or need a faster reply, please use "URGENT" in the subject line of your email. So sorry for the inconvenience, someone should be getting back with you soon!
Patrick Ukemi Wrote third emails yesterday. To ALL the emails listed on their website. No reply. I really needed a brake kit for an event I am taking a part of in a few days. I guess it ain't happening. 😦
@@totkamacedonia1337 We are truly sorry that you are having trouble reaching us. We don't usually work weekends or holidays, so no one could have replied to your e-mails during the holiday weekend, no matter which address you used. I will forward your info to our customer support team to see if they can find your e-mails to get you a reply. so sorry for the inconvenience.
@@totkamacedonia1337 I checked with our customer support team, and could not find any emails under "Totka Macedonia". For any time sensitive e-mails, please e-mail support@flyinmiata.com with "URGENT" in the subject line. Anything without the urgent tag is currently taking over a week for a reply. We apologize for the inconvenience and ask for your understanding while we work through this busy time.
I don’t recommend the timing advance especially on higher mileage cars. Would be interested in getting actual dyno charts that show an increase in power.
Kind of pisses me off that you're just totally blowing off 1.6 you're like and then 16 whatever. Not whatever I would like to know the information for the 1.6 computer that would why are you ignoring it
This made me buy one of the last 2 NB timing wheels!
We'll make more! :)
For NB it can be FREE too! Just use a file and make the holes adjustable
these are so good! Thank you thank you thank you for this content! Love you guys
I've always run my NB on 98 RON (93 AKI). Regardless of running any mods. Australia's fuel quality is pretty poor compared to the US, and I only kinda trust the 98 octane.
Mazda actually recommends 95 RON as a minimum for the NB2 here. I don't know if thats because our cars make more power than the US' version, or if its due to the kinda poor fuel quality here.
Like for example the base NB2 made ~152hp, whilst we didnt get the Mazdaspeed, we got the SP/SE turbo NB, which made like 210hp.
Not sure why the differences in power though. I'd be interested in seeing what the differences are, but no one has really made a comparison side by side. If its just due to emission regulation differences, or something else like timing or compression.
Jeremy this is really interesting stuff. Not mentioned is that advancing the spark from 10 degree to 14 degrees before TDC increases combustion temperatures, and that increases production of nitrides of oxygen (NOX) in the exhaust. This can cause the engine to fail a smog test. One of the jobs of a catalytic converter is to remove NOX. An extra load of NOX shortens the life of the cat. CARB legal cats are about $1000 at the moment. So, in California the extra few horsepower from advanced timing comes at a price.
Just change the timing back when you get your inspection mate then advance it again
Is the timing advance on the 1.6 the same?
Everything on Flyin' Miata is always exceedingly helpful, and this vid was no exception. Learned a lot about timing the NB and I am thankful. However, I do have a question off topic of the video and about the car in the background... It's an NB, yes. It has the same spoiler on the trunk lid that mine (2001 Base) has but I have not been able to find any info about that particular spoiler. I see very few of those on the road. I was wondering if you could tell me about that design (versus the little smooth "humpy one" that I usually see), it's particulars, is it somehow special, or what? Or at least direct me to the source of all things Miata body parts. Thanks!
With the engine off the the driver right mark should be on the T? When using strobe 10* one mark on the 10 and other on the T?
Sorry but I'll need more info to answer this correctly. It's probably best to head over to Miata.net which has an article on base timing miata.net/garage/ignition.html or our instructions for the adjustable timing wheel here flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/adjustable%20timing%20wheel.pdf. Thanks for watching!
excellent, excellent video
excellent explanation
Hi, just curious if (na6) has timing set at 14 and 1.8 injector upgrade, what is you opinion with this setup. 91 octane.
The 1.8 injectors will not provide any extra power unless you are running a turbo. 14 degrees and 91 octane are a good match.
hey guys, just wanted to order one of those adjustable timing wheels mentioned at the very start for my 99 N/A NB1. Small issue: my two options for shipping are both over 120USD. I'm located in Australia. Surely it cannot be that expensive for a relatively small piece such as this. I paid less shipping getting my exhaust delivered internationally. thanks
Our shipping costs are usually automatically calculated using the current shipping rates we have in our system. If you think something is incorrect, please drop us an email at support@flyinmaita.com so that one of our Customer Support Reps can research the matter. Thanks!
You can make your own by filing the holes into slots, just do your research.
Does the 14 degree timing modification help on a 1.8 engine too?
Yes. It's complicated though. Go read about it.
Any idea why a MP62 positive displacement supercharged 1.8 would have no torque down low and build linearly like a rotrex?
It’s either way outside its efficiency range or there’s a leak. Look at the boost curve.
These things are correct, and to add, another possibility is if the fuel or timing are way off. With a supercharger, if the fuel & timing is anywhere in the safe ballpark they are less sensitive & will make what they make.
@@FlyinMiataVideo It makes 7psi at 4k and peaks at just over 12psi at the limiter.
@@TIGHTENmetal Fuel is definitely richer than i'd like. 12.5 mid range and rolls to low 11's on top end. Timing is retarded about 6 degrees but that's linear, so 6 at redline.
@@ricepony33 I'd definitely be looking for some sort of leak. At higher engine/blower speeds, it's able to overcome it. A loose clamp on a post-blower pipe, for example.
I can't tell if my car is pinging. Any tips on detecting it?
You'll hear it. Sounds like someone is shaking a spray paint can.
To echo Key, if you can't tell then it's likely not happening. If it is happening, it will sound like a small diesel tractor (think Kubota) under load going up hill when the engine starts to lug. So on a long hill where you would normally shift down from 5th to 4th gear to maintain speed you will hear it as the motor starts to lug in 5th just before you would downshift.
Knock sensors can pick up knock before you can hear it. If you hear it, it's significant.
Shaking a spray paint can is a good analogy. Also marbles in a can, or popcorn, are ways to describe it.
PLEASE ANSWER: I have coilovers that don’t have much ride height adjustability in the rear on my NB Miata. What’s the best solution for filling in the negative preload I receive from maxing out the ride height? Because it only goes as low as I want when I have about a -1.5inches of preload. And the car has been sitting unevenly from me taking the wheels on and off and readjusting ride height but I just can’t get it even without going back to the stock ride height. Should I buy new coilovers? Tender/helper springs? I’m tearing up the internet looking for answers but no luck please help!
"Negative preload" is a new one!
If you're looking for something to keep pressure on the unloaded springs so they stay in place, you need helper springs. You could also potentially use longer primary springs.
As for sitting unevenly, the best way to get in the ballpark is to set the perches in the same place on each side. Keep in mind that the car won't sit properly on the suspension until you roll it. See our cornerweighting video for some more details.
Flyin' Miata That’d be perfect except I can’t find any NB helper springs anywhere. I see flyin Miata sells them for the NA. Shouldn’t the NA helpers fit fine, especially since most coilovers that fit an NA are also compatible with the NB ?
@@AramysFS7 There's not really any difference. We sell some that fit any platform, although usually as part of a kit.
you had me at 20:36...
Thanks for watching!
All is great, but could SOMEONE at FM answer ANY of my numerous emails? I am a return customer, yet I am treated like I do not exist...
We're truly sorry for any delays in email replies. Every customer is important and we are working hard to reply to every e-mail we get. Currently we are receiving a much larger than normal volume of e-mails and unfortunately it can be over a week to reply in some instances. If you have a time sensitive question or need a faster reply, please use "URGENT" in the subject line of your email. So sorry for the inconvenience, someone should be getting back with you soon!
they're probably just really busy and short handed. They are good people. May not be Starbucks, but probably better
Patrick Ukemi Wrote third emails yesterday. To ALL the emails listed on their website. No reply. I really needed a brake kit for an event I am taking a part of in a few days. I guess it ain't happening. 😦
@@totkamacedonia1337 We are truly sorry that you are having trouble reaching us. We don't usually work weekends or holidays, so no one could have replied to your e-mails during the holiday weekend, no matter which address you used. I will forward your info to our customer support team to see if they can find your e-mails to get you a reply. so sorry for the inconvenience.
@@totkamacedonia1337 I checked with our customer support team, and could not find any emails under "Totka Macedonia". For any time sensitive e-mails, please e-mail support@flyinmiata.com with "URGENT" in the subject line. Anything without the urgent tag is currently taking over a week for a reply. We apologize for the inconvenience and ask for your understanding while we work through this busy time.
C
U
You've confused yourself
I don’t recommend the timing advance especially on higher mileage cars. Would be interested in getting actual dyno charts that show an increase in power.
There have been dyno runs showing a power gain with 4 degrees of timing advance on Miatas for the past 30 years. It's pretty well documented.
Kind of pisses me off that you're just totally blowing off 1.6 you're like and then 16 whatever. Not whatever I would like to know the information for the 1.6 computer that would why are you ignoring it
Dudes doing a good job, he doesn’t have to do anything for you lol
It’s an amazing amount of support for a 30 year old engine