THE BREAKTHROUGH! | Black Templars | H&S ULTRA 2024 First Impressions | Hobby Q&A
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- We carry on with the channel army project and take a look at the new Ultra 2024 from Harder & Steenbeck
#40k #blacktemplars #paintingwarhammer
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Came
For the dulcet Henry tones. Stayed for the shoulder pad peels. 😂
I really liked the rambly nature of this video. So please carry them on going forward.
and just like that I've accidently decided to do a black templars army...
Oooops
The Emperor wills it, brother 😉
Thanks for all the practical and abstract advice, there's a few notes to make. I feel much the same about mould lines, and I remember painting a few chaos marines just before 3rd ed 40k and thinking, well, power armour would me manufactured somehow, maybe some bits have mould lines too, haha.
Somewhat similarly, I know that first layer of transfers are well hidden, but it's kind of fitting for Black Templars, whose oldest suits of armour would be painted over a few layers of Imperial Fists schemes. I sometimes think of that concept with 2nd founding chapters, how legion coulours might show up on say, a relic power fist, or through battle damage, but that might be a bit festidious ha.
Great to see all the food for thought about airbrushes and bristles here too! While it's cool seeing the latex come off, the most satisfying bit was how that brush went painting that little perpendicular facet of the shoulder guard trim. It's one of those tests of a brush for me, oddly enough
Love the tutorials. Y’all have made me a better painter with the clear guides!
Love this black templar army project! Incredibly helpful and very inspirng for my own crusaders.
Thank goodness the Dread is saved. We can call off the rioting
Thank goodness the Ultramarines dreadnought is saved. Great video! It's awesome inspiration for Black Templars.
I enjoyed the rambling army painting vid, great to have on when painting. Keep them coming
Yeah, just seeing you hobbying is cool, because we see you do things that normally don't make it into the video's are we can learn from as well.
6:09 - we're never ever cross with you, Henry! :-)
If it helps anyone, look for liquid latex for things like special effects. You can usually find bigger bottles that work out cheaper and it's the exact same stuff
I found The Mighty Brush transfers to be chaotic to work with compared to GW/Forgeworld - look great once you’ve unstuck them from themselves though!
My new resin 3d prints really come out extremely details with no mold lines. Tiny chips sometimes near supports but honestly not bad. Really recommend it to everyone. Dont fall for monopoly plastics 50$++++ for 5 marines.
Hey Henry, I've really enjoyed the rambly video. It was cool to see you hobby, hearing thoughts and the QA.
As a side part I'm really looking forward to seeing the dread for this project!
i hope the Black temp new vidios are coming out soon. using your painting guied and its going relly well. love wahting your BT vids when panting.
Tank coming v soon!
Daaaaaaaamn! That airbrush is nice! I have never been tempted by a new airbrush before, but that is seriously tempting.
8:08 people from the scale model hobby world seem to like Mr. Hobby's liquid mask. Have not tried it myself, but maybe you could give them a go.
I‘ve enjoyed it and am looking forward to the next templar video!
for filling gaps : there are several good methods.
For nasty gaps - try to get hold of some polystyrene card like evergreen. Cut it into a smallish piece and shove it into the gap and add thin glue. Cut the excess , sand smooth and be done. Has limits. Hard to reach spaces , curved spaces etc tend to not work well. perfect for gaps on flat straight pieces. Think vehicles/armour.
Fill them with a 2 part putty like milliput or greenstuff. For filling I'd stick to milliput as it drys harder than greenstuff and therefore is more sandible. Also milliputs is way easier to smooth out with water and a sculpting tool or even just your finger.
Already mixed putty. Mostly used in scalemodelling. Tamiya Putty, Ak Putty. Apply with a toothpick. Apply a bit more than you need putty may shrink while curing. Very easy to sand after drying. Great smooth results.
For shallow imperfections Mr. Hobby Surfacer 500 / 1000 / 1500 works great. The higher the number the smoother and less "filling" it is.
Sprue-Goo is another great alternative. Buy thin cement or just use acetone (pretty much the same thing anyway) Use a GLASS bottle/jar/empty paint jar(tamiya/mr- hobby) or just an empty tamiya/mr hobby thin cement jar. Fill or siphon the cement/acetone untill the aplicator brush(if you used the emtpy cement jar) is 1/3 in the liquid. Then just dump a bunch of sprue cuts into the liquid and let it desolve. Tada = sprue goo =)
Sprue goo tends to shrink while drying and also has a bit longer curing time.
Shiny Decal borders - This has been a frequent issue with decals that i have used in a variety, or a plethora of model kits, that I have built going back into the 70's when I barely at my dad's hip. On the last 20 years I have gradually adopted a process to make decals appear as if they were painted on. Some of what I learned was from watching another UA-cam model builder, Boyd from Trekworks.
I use Micro Sol/Set to lay the decal and use Solva Set (the model railroad hobbies) which will melt the film causing a more painted on look. You have to be VERY careful with Solvaset as it literally melts the decal. Use caution and test a few decals so you know how they respond and each sheet likely will respond different. After the decal has dried over night I will hit with the appropriate matt/clear coat as desired. It is impossible to see the decals and they look painted on.
p.s. Tamiya glue - get a good glass bottle with pure acetone and paint that on your mold lines. Tamiya glue is Acetone cut to reduce strength and adjust viscosity.
I believe that doing one Squad at a time is a smart thing to do. That way if there is various changes it looks appealing still.
This will help me with my Deathwatch, I started them following the lore so I'm painting them in their original color then painting it black to have some of the original hue showing through the black.
For my Kill Team Cassius I'm using metallic paints and they are looking interesting
As someone who loves and collects Templars as well I cannot recommend Themightybrush decals highly enough. They have such awesome designs in general but also a bunch of Templar specific ones and they work and look beautiful on the model, so maybe have a go at those if you like them! Also I love this project because of the uncut and chill vibe,, so I can't wait on the next one, great work as always!
Great video as always Henry. Nice to hear your take on AO - Pretty much same take as me - It's nice to see small companies pushing the boundary and I'm usually happy to pay a few extra ££ to support them. Looking forwards to NMM course next week at Incom with you guys
Got my first air brush setup on the way. Got a fengda compressor and airbrush coming but ordered the h&s ultra aswell. Hoping to smash marines out with it. Keep coming second in local paint comps to an air brush user. No more!!!
It's funny you mention how you've started to enjoy doing more glow for the eyes over the typical lens/gem style because I've started to do that too. As for the trouble with decals, I've started to enjoy airbrush stencils. No need to make it look like a painted on finish when it actually is painted on.
Interesting to hear what you had to say Henry! However, I gotta admit that I’m looking forward to seeing a bit more structure in the next video. Good stuff regardless!
me too!
So glad you saved the dreadnought!
I have the same process for mold line clean up honestly, I use a file for initial clean up though instead of scraping, then 400 grit sand paper THEN thin plastic glue, but I used the stuff from plastruct then inspect and sand/file where needed, on every model...and just think, I'm starting up tyranids...pray for me
Great video, really enjoyed seeing your workflow - a few tips i picked up along the way. Thanks for answering my question, appreciated the expanded answer on what your UA-cam is for. Glad to hear you will be doing more passion projects, and more multi-part stuff on UA-cam, and I will take a peek on the patreon when I can. Templars are looking great, especially enjoy the offwhite shoulder pads 👍
I feel so much better that my Cult of Paint airbrush looks similar to Henry's. I need to spend time time cleaning mine up, but now I don't feel as bad that I am not alone in my struggle with keeping it clean like it was new and out of box.
It's super clean inside, honest!!!!
That looks like a lovely jumper there, Henry!
Hahaha thanks Matt!
As someone who's planning some hh dark angels, that was interesting as always thank you !
Variety is the spice of life so I enjoy seeing a bit of variation in video style. Great video as always.
great stuff as always, really enjoy the thoughtful insights (and appreciate the heads up on the decals)
this kind of video is great for when i paint! more plz! :)
My Forge World Ultramarine decals did the same thing. My other decals on the model were fine. I thought the varnish would help get rid of the sheen but it didn’t. I really didn’t want to risk messing up the rest of my model to remove it so I just left it on.
I hope you go with some yellow weapon casings with flames!
Been really keen on that basing vid you were gonna put out for the Templars, I hope we'll see that one coming along soon as well, even if you're taking a bit of a break from the marines themselves
100% will be in next week's vid.
I really enjoy this type of video! Please continune them!! =)
The state of that Infinity.... 😬😂
I keep mine (no. 764) clean, very clean. Unlike my work bench, which is a complete mess. I like the trigger on the Cult of Paint brush, sadly mine does not have the custom engraved lid for the larger paint cup.
The inside is spotless!
@@cultofpaint I know, the results speak for themselves.
I've had the same decal issues with the new Age of Darkness box set. However not with the old imperial fists sheet or the FW sheet you mentioned.
love this series!
Hey Henry, with the upcoming FEC release on the horizon it would be amazing if you could do a necrotic flesh/ ghoul flesh tutorial for us all. Especially using oils if possible. ❤
Oh you are getting some FEC goodness for sure. I am OBSESSED with the new minis.
I loved this video series.
For black armor I love chromatic black.
I really love the whole black Templar series and all the answered questions were quite helpful and insightful! Definitely will work on my Templars in the next months!
I was thinking of using your black Templars black scheme for a black legion army and therefore maybe using a „colder“ oil wash to make them look a bit more sinister😅 Do you have a recommendation for such an oil wash? Maybe like a greenish tone ?
a grungy green colour would probably look great. Try industrial earth from Abteilung
@@cultofpaint thanks a lot !👍☺️
Would love to see more of that Sisters of Battle project you have!
I'd like to add some siters into this project, along with Inquisition. But lets get a good chunk of these lads done first!
Love the work! Any tips for weathering black armor?
awesome video thanks for this
Don’t mind the ramble! Nice to get a bunch of different touch points in a video rather than the normal format, a nice change for once in a while!
I hope the new ultra will be better than mine... i got an ultra a few years ago and I spend hours and hours cleaning it over and over again instead of painting with it. switched to an infinity and havent regretted it since. jsut way better for cleaning and no clogging at all. so yeah, hope the new ultra doesnt have these problems i had
Just got the 2024 ultra and I've spent more time cleaning it and wondering why its clogged...
i never used the old Ultras. Have got a few hours of painting done with this one and haven't had a clog yet.
@@JbizzyG sounds like my experience!
If you call your entry level brush "Ultra", what do you call the rest of the line?
Always great vids. You have the knack of making the painting process that is able to be done by anyone. Always interesting, informative and inspirational all at the same time.
Just with brushes how many do you have, what sizes do u use
Cheers
Thanks very much. I have brushes in lots of sizes, but I mainly use an AO series S 1 and 00
I've recently read that Artis Opus brushes are supposedly rebranded/modified rosemary and co brushes. I've never tested out to see how similar they are to see if this is correct. I have also noted on rosemary's website that they also sell drybrushes that look similar to the D series which sort of supports this. I guess it is a bit like how the good games workshop brushes are actually made by windsor and newton.
I don't want to speak for another company. But there are a finite amount of high quality brush manufacturers, and they will often make brushes to another company's specifications.
Do I need spray booth for airbrushing? Everyone says I need one but I never saw anyone actually use one.
27:00 very true, people tend to make bold statements about what brush (or other product) they like the most. In fact you did that as well when you said "Harder & Steenbeck is so far ahead of everyone else" (22:40). I myself must have made similar statements about products I like as well, so not trying to call you out. Just saying you proved your own point.
I'd argue the H&S comment is different. I've bought and used brushes by the 3 big manufacturers, H&S build quality is demonstrably better. I make sure during AB classes to point out that just because I love h&S doesnt meant there aren't other excellent airbrushes. Saying the company is so far ahead of their competitors is fact, not opinion. Saying H&S is the best brush ever would have been. But I appreciate you commenting.
@@cultofpaint others would argue that Iwata is ahead of everyone else, when it comes to build quality for example. I don't think either statement can be taken as fact.
@@Wijkert others might argue that, and if they've visited both factories and seen the production methods then I'd certainly listen to that arguement.
@@cultofpaint I would listen to that person too, as this person would be better informed than most. My problem lies with the word "fact". Seeing how the airbrushes are being produced doesn't tell the whole story. It's still an oppion not a fact. I realize we are arguing semantics here, but people will take what you say way more seriously. Not only because you are an expert, but also because you have a UA-cam channel. I guess I prefer less absolute statements which you guys are pretty good at to be fair. See also this video where you gave a more nuanced view of which hairy brushes you like and why other people's statements can be seen as hyperbolic for example.
@Wijkert I appreciate the amount of time you spend commenting on our content, and I understand your point. I need to get back to painting, but I will consider how I deliver any information on the channel in the future. Hopefully people find it helpful, can draw their own conclusions, and won't get too upset with what we say about things.
finding an art shop or hobby shop that sells decent brushes seems to be so difficult these days, so i mostly have to buy mine online. i've had horrible luck with WN brushes, which was super confusing when i was starting out and people recommended them and i struggled to use them, basically because i didn't know any better and later on realised that i'd just ended up with ones with bad tips. i've had much better luck with AO, but i do wish there was somewhere closer where i could look at them in the flesh before buying.
The Range sell Windsor & Newton brushes, various ranges other than the no.7's, at less than half the price of the more expensive ones. I use the "professional" watercolour sable and "Artist" watercolour sable brushes as my heavy duty workhorses. Good brushes for base coating and larger jobs. I leave my Broken Toad and various other expensive brushes for the detail work.
So I've been seeing people making up a lot of pigment powder washes recently, would those generally be OK to put through an airbrush (depending on solvent used) or to add powders along with thinners to a paint mixture that you are going to put through an airbrush? In specific I'm wondering about the idea of adding graphite powder to a black paint and maybe some black ink for a sort of TMM highlight without going going to a significantly lighter hughe.
yeah ive done it a couple times, was fine.
It's a shame scale model manufacturers don't make decal sheets for wargaming, Eduard have the best decals I have ever used by a long shot, plus with their newer sheets, once the decal is in place you can remove the carrier film from the model all together!
On the airbrush conversation, I have tried a Steenbeck but I just didn't get on with it, I think it's very much the same thing as with normal brushes, you need to find what works for you individually. For example, after the H&S I tried a UMP Apex, which is much more simple for example there is no backstop for the needle, no interchangable colour cup and so on, but for me it absolutely blew the H&S out of the water, there was no comparison the Apex just did what the Steenbeck did better, plus it feels much more robust and less fussy, it's an absolute workhorse, plus UMP are another UK based company and their service just feels more friendly, for example, if you place an order with UMP, it gets delivered with a hand written thank you and a packet of Haribo!
packets of Haribo, the classic UK hobby store gift.
More army painting videos!
I did like the rambly tone of this video but I can see myself getting tired of it if this becomes every video. I know you expressly stated this wasn't going to be every video, so thank you. I do like the change of pace though and think like a once-a-month (or even every-second video) would be a nice change from the regular tutorials.
But IDK, I'll watch the videos either way. Just keep being cool.
Microsol/set gets rid of the frosty outlines
Not in this case.
Not sure if I missed it but is the rakarth flesh for the white the only change you made to the scheme since the original terminators? Black still the same?
yes the AB black stages are the same. Next vid they'll all be complete and i;ll run through any changes.
@@cultofpaint thanks so much. really loving the series.
Asking for a friend, "will there be a Cult of Paint branded Ultra?"
Working on it. But doesnt hurt to give them a nudge on their socials ;)
@@cultofpaintnoooooo! I ordered the Squidmar Ultra, don't force me to order another CoP ;)
looks they are finally releasing the CoP trigger as an accessory, no date yet, but they said it's coming
did they?
yeah, I kept asking the same question on everyone of Warrick's videos, "when are you bringing out the CoP trigger as an accessory?" After about the 5th one they replied, so I said I'd stop asking
Plus, would you be willing to part with the Black Templar transfer sheets instead of chucking them in the bin?
All gone I'm afraid
3:40 - are you spraying tamiya extra thin through the airbrush there, to smooth out the second sanding stage?
No, just air to remove any dust before printing.
When are we getting Cult of Paint T-Shirts? Because I would love a T-shirt!
very soon
Does the Ultra 2024 trigger can fit into the Infinity body and will it work ?
I don't know
@@cultofpaint You have both airbrushes on hand, you could try.
@@adwarfsittingonagiantsshoulder lol, yes m'lord, right away!
@@cultofpaint Sorry. You know, it is just that this is not the first time I ask this question to people on youtube that both have an Ultra 2024 and an Infinity, and everytime I get some evasive reply to this simple question. No one has the patience to spend one minute trying if the triggers could be swaped...
@@adwarfsittingonagiantsshoulder I don't know that you've asked it on other UA-cam channels before no. Did you reach out to the manufacturers to ask? I've just stopped painting for the next video and tried it with the Ultra and our Infinity. The triggers aren't compatible and don't function the same way in the opposite brush. Thank you for taking the time to comment on the video.
Whenever I gloss varnish via my airbrush to do pin washing, it always makes my paint job darker which is really annoying. Am I doing something wrong?
no, gloss will make it look darker, once you then use a satin or matt varnish over it, it will lighten up again.
Ahh! Ok cool. Thank you! 👍🏻
I prefer the finish of painting metallics over black
Glad to hear you'd recommend the new Ultra, I was looking to pick one up as my first airbrush. I would love a CoP signature series one so I've sent them a message 😂 might hold out buying one now in case they do. Fingers crossed!
Love it. Did the jump pack captain come with the two handed thunder hammer or where's the bit from?
No that bit is from the Sword Brethren kit
Got into a pretty heated discussion with a guy that claimed it's "silvering," do to trapped "airbubbles" and would not listen to me when I tried to explain how poor GW/FW decals can be at times. I do believe that FW is typically superior to GW, but there are times when FW has let me down.
For as much money as they charge for their products, you'd think they'd get the transfer decals figured out by now..
Is it worth buying? air brush
It looks like you have been making great progress on this project. It's a shame about the decals.
Will you been painting any drop pods for this army? I am currently painting a bunch of them at the moment. I can't seem to get the weathering looking right on them. I'm usually pretty good at it. I had a good teacher. I've taken two of your classes when you were here in Australia.
I'd totally forgotten about drop pods. I've never actually painted one, so it'd be a lot of fun to try.
Couldn't you put some matte varnish over the decals to tone down the gloss?
Thats what I'm wondering, too. Gloss varnish over them to protect the decal, then matt varnish over that. Should take back the gloss from the decal itself
I did on one of them, no joy.
Will you guys cover painting of other gaming systems ? Ie bolt action, moonstone etc
Yes, but we tend to do that over on Patreon.
What sanding sponge brand / grit are are you using?
Would like to know this as well. Which brand are you using Henry?
Tamiya, mix of grits
hi there henry, how much bar, pressure did you use when you used the white over black in the beginning of the video and what "size" was the collar? just for intereset...
25 psi. 0.4mm
I really appreciate your comments about mould lines, because I always miss one no matter how hard I look for them all and wonder if it's just me? I hold the model at different angles, take pictures in black and white - every technique I can think of. And it doesn't help that - for me at least - it's the worst part of the hobby. The last time someone at an (unfriendly) game store pointed them out, I told him they "show the hand of the Omnissiah at work & removing them all is the mark of the Heretic!" He just grumbled and walked away!
haha yeah, those people can do one.
Hit up GW and let them know. They’ll send you more sheets.
what sanding paper/stick grit is recommended for models?
ive got a range from 800-2500
What camera do you use to film?
Henry, how do like the new jetpacks from a aesthetic standpoint? I honestly thought them ugly as hell the first time I saw them but the more often I see them the more I like em kinda
I quite like the design to be fair. I could do without the little fin things though.
Always worry about putting varnish through an airbrush. What do you use to clean the airbrush after varnish has gone through it ?
Isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you’re in a vented area and don’t breathe it in.
Just my normal Airbrush cleaner.
thanks@@ShabeBarry
thanks@@cultofpaint
What are those sanding sticks?
Tamiya sanding sponge cut down
My 2024 ultra is just clogged all the time. The "settings" are borderline pointless. The only that makes it better than the cheap airbrushes that come with the compressor is the trigger.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the £15 cheapies that come with compressors, still use mine for basecoating and varnishing. Got the new Ultra last week & it’s a big step up for detail work!
Please may I ask where you got all the old style helmets from? Thanks.
My friends old space marines collections. You can still find some in the Vanguard marines box
@@cultofpaint thank you!
My rakarth flesh looks way browner (purpler) than what you're getting here. Any idea why?
Could be inconsistency between batches, but also it comes out lighter when I airbrush it than brush it on.
@@cultofpaint cool, I'll load up my airbrush and see. Thanks
Is the black recipe in the first tutorial?
Yes
Terminator one
I love the idea of this series, but I feel like the pacing is a little off.. Three weeks and only some base coats and decals done feels a little unsatisfying to me. No hate meant at all, I love the channel, I’d just like to see more progress per week, personally. Maybe I’m just impatient, and I know these are gonna turn out great!
I think that's a very fair comment, thankyou.
yaaa!!! didnt know the UM brutallus was on the chopping block to be converted to an illiterate templar who doesnt want to read a good book.
What is that sanding sponge in the beginning? Where to find these?
Tamiya sanding sponge
Henry, do you guys use mixing white?
whats that?
@@cultofpaintzinc oxide pigmented white instead of a titanium dioxide pigment. Available from the usual artist acrylic ranges. Much softer value adjustment as you mix it in to a color vs typical white that nukes a mix the moment you throw in a tad too much.
It’s nice to have in the toolbox
@@pbkobold Beautiful explanation. Far better than I would have said. Thank you.
You should stop inhaling through your mouth. Try breathing more with the nose.
what dark paints did he use?