Doesn't look crap, at all. What looks crap is when you're at the side of the road with a car that won't start! You helped me with my vapor lock problem. Thanks 👍
One of those filters the knowledgable man is talking about (Wix 33041), a return line to the tank, insulate the feed line in the engine bay to the carburetor with ceramic fire insulation wrapped in foil tape, get rid of mechanical fuel pump and replace with an electric, a phenolic carb spacer.......fixed my vapor lock....even on 100F days in Colorado altitude on 89 octane ethanol gas.
Thank you man! This clears a lot, I did not know that this type of fuel filter existed, and I am starting to think that many of the UA-camrs don't either. Great work man, thanks for showing us the run of your fuel lines.
IS YOUR FAVORITE WORD "DUHHHHHHHHHH"...AS YOU DROVE ME INSANE WAITING FOR YOUR WORDS....BUT..NO...YOU ONLY SAY DUHHHHHHHH, LIKE JOE BIDEN.....SPEAK MAN....SPEAK.........
Well done! In the future you could upgrade to steel braided lines, if you want to spend some more money? It’s never ending with cars and trucks. Happy New Year
I’ve been on the warpath looking for one of these filters in 3/8, I think they’ve been discontinued…. Type in any of these part numbers and you’ll get re directed to a 5/16
@@aaronlewis7562 yes , absolutely but looks a little funky squeezing on a 3/8 hose onto a 5/16 barb. Although I did find someone on eBay selling a bunch of the 3/8 return filters for GTO’s, Apparently GTO’s came from the factory with these .
Thanks so much for this video as my 70 roadrunner is having this issue here in hot Florida ,August 2023....I believe this will stop these issues for sure ....Thanks again !!
Good to reduce preheating. I have had some luck preventing vapor lock by placeing a heat shield between the HOT/heated intake manifold and fuel pump. They are close and there is some heat transfer. The heat riser gets well over 200F. Pure gas boils around 160F. Adding ethonal lowers the boiling point even more and begs for a liquid delivery system to fill with vapor/fuel steam and lose Its essential hydraulic characteristics. I used a trimmed out sardine can as an initial test and it has worked so far.
Yes totally agree this method really helped my car. The return line off that vapor separator fuel filter eliminated vapor lock. I still get heat soak after my car sits when hot but i just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a bit until she clears the gas flood from the heat soak and away she goes. Good vid man👊
Hook to your existing return line running back to your tank. If you don't have one, there's videos on how to install one. Though I will say check your sending unit in your tank first, many of them have a connection for fuel return if they were ever replaced, or were close enough in age to models that use return lines.
That return nipple on your filter should be mounted up, on top, vapor goes up to escape right? Even though I have that vapor separator and an electric pump controlled by a toggle switch to push cooler fuel through the mechanical pump,by the way, this does work, I am going to try the heat shielding as you suggested. Thanks for the video.
Sorry about to add this filter myself keeping stock fuel pump tho and already found a return line. Question is is the filter installed in between pump and carb or between tank and pump
My 81 Chevy only vapor locks when it's 100° or more outside. An electric fuel pump helped a lot. Next summer I am going to add a vapor separator fuel filter and see if that solves the rest of the problem.
Awesome video just have one question maybe a dumb question but did your car originally have a a return line? I having issues with vapor lock but my car doesn’t have a return line I was thinking of running a line just like you but I would have to drill a hole on my tank or how would I do it? I also don’t have an electric pump just stick mechanical
I have a mechanical fuel pump with a return line from the tank that connects to the fuel pump on side of my engine. How could I connect the vapor separator filter into the return line that’s already connected to fuel pump Could I use a Y barbed fitting On return line? Everything else I understand. All help appreciated.
Dude thanks for the WIX part number. There are other videos out there but they don't give the filter number. I'm not about to go into O'Reallies and try to describe it to them.
Is it possible this can happen with a 2007 Toyota . Never have any issues cranking in the morning it runs fun but after it gets up to normal operating temperature and i cut it off and wait a few mins and go to crank it sometomes it will have a rough start or not start but if i wait awhile it will crank back up.
I used the original return line. If your car doesn’t have a return line, then you need to add one. Also make sure you have a sending unit with a return line.
Thank You my friend. You explanation and direction helped me solve an issue I've dealt with for quite some time. May GOD Bless you for your talent and your willingness to share your knowledge with me and others. You sir are a true Gentleman : Thank You Again !
Dude, I had been having this issue for a while myself. I just found this out. I have gone through 2 carburetors, all kinds of issues not knowing what this was. My car actually has a dedicated return line that was not connected. I was told it was unnecessary. I just found out about the Wix filter etc. I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental. Here is a clip of my car ua-cam.com/video/evqPWCIxM0g/v-deo.html thanks! I subscribed.
My 84 C10 stock setup has the 2nd outlet made into the fuel pump itself that goes the the charcoal canister. The canister is also hooked into the tank, top of the carb bowl and runs to a vaccum port on the intake .
Edward to answer your question, anything is possible but NO that will not work. The vapor line you speak of from the fuel filter isn't a vapor line it's liquid fuel that returns back to the tank. That liquid also contains some vapor fuel when it's boiling and gets carried back to the tank with mostly liquid gasoline. Therefore you can NOT tie that return line to the stock fuel vapor charcoal canister because it's not a vapor line it's a liquid return line. I think the problem is people are confusing the fact that that filter removes vapor from the fuel lines and think it gives off vapors in that extra port on the filter. Not so. Liquid fuel passes through both the inlet and outlet ports on the fuel filter. The third port is merely there to allow fuel to continuously flow back to the tank to keep the fuel cooler than if it were just standing in the lines as it's slowly being consumed by the engine running. As the fuel flows through this extra port and is returned to the tank it will ALSO remove and vapor that might be otherwise formed if the fuel lies stagnant in the line and boils from the radiant heat from an exhaust manifold. Hope this helps you understand how this filter helps. And yes I would install this filter as close as possible to the carburetor since the extra port will flush the hot liquid fuel back to the tank and prevent vapor lock all the way up to where the filter is installed since it will be dumping fuel from that point back to the tank and keeping that supply line flowing with cool fuel from the tank.
Great Video-------also , has anyone mentioned to you about the older vehicles having fuel caps that were vented to allow the vapors out. You cant buy them now because of EPA and the new ones say they are "vented" and the auto parts guy will try to sell you one but it is not made the same
@@hersh51 ~ they make an adapter that clamps around the filler neck where you put gas in drill a hole in it clamp it around filler neck and hook up return line ( if you don`t have a return line on your sending unit ! what i do to older cars !
Hersch. Thanks friend. I am gonna tackle this on my 68 Chrysler. Question for you. The return line you ran, how did u and where on the tank did u attach? Was there already a access point on the tank to tap into?
Hi, in order for the vapor separator filter to work properly the inlet and return line need to be placed downwards, and the outlet should be pointing up due to the way these filters are designed.
@@SOLDOZER actually Ivan's not wrong, any separator worth its salt has a 1/16th vent going into a 1/4 inch return line. This 1/16th vent needa to be on top in order to allow the vapor out, but the size of the whole maintains fuel delivery to the outlet the way its supposed to. All it is is a relief hole for vapor and excessively pressurized fuel, but it has to be faced correctly or it won't work effectively. You'd have to reprime (long cranking cycle in other words) before fuel gets where it's supposed to be again. You'd still experience a few other symptoms of vapor lock due to trying to push that vapor through your carburetor.
Thank you for the very clear and easy to understand pathways and I liked how you opened up explaining what a vapor lock is and what the heat soak is that made things more clear for me thank you great job
Thanks for sharing ..this kinda stuff came about in the 70s on up and is usually forgotten about and ditched when the smog / emissions stuff is removed. Wasn't present in 60s era cars though but a great fix to common problems that the factory addressed in the 70s. Trick is to install a return line into a tank that never had one stock and where on the tank .Would be interesting to see people solutions . Added info. The wix 33041 is for 3/8 lines. The wix 33040 is for 5/16 lines.
Doesn't look crap, at all. What looks crap is when you're at the side of the road with a car that won't start! You helped me with my vapor lock problem. Thanks 👍
One of those filters the knowledgable man is talking about (Wix 33041), a return line to the tank, insulate the feed line in the engine bay to the carburetor with ceramic fire insulation wrapped in foil tape, get rid of mechanical fuel pump and replace with an electric, a phenolic carb spacer.......fixed my vapor lock....even on 100F days in Colorado altitude on 89 octane ethanol gas.
I can’t find a 33041 even on the net. Do you know different brands same specs? I need 3-8 primary lines.
I think you meant a 33040 part number
Thank you bro, you just gave me a clear understanding on how to solve my fuel line problem😁
Thank you man! This clears a lot, I did not know that this type of fuel filter existed, and I am starting to think that many of the UA-camrs don't either. Great work man, thanks for showing us the run of your fuel lines.
std equipment on AMC jeeps
IS YOUR FAVORITE WORD "DUHHHHHHHHHH"...AS YOU DROVE ME INSANE WAITING FOR YOUR WORDS....BUT..NO...YOU ONLY SAY DUHHHHHHHH, LIKE JOE BIDEN.....SPEAK MAN....SPEAK.........
Were you born rude or did it take years of practice?
Great video but consider the zip ties in hot cold temp will start to crack. Maybe some 0-rings for long term? Just an idea
Good idea, thanks 👍🏾
Good idea and video. I'm gonna do something similar on my old Land Cruiser.
I admire you, God bless!
Well done! In the future you could upgrade to steel braided lines, if you want to spend some more money? It’s never ending with cars and trucks. Happy New Year
so that's why the muscle cars use the braided? hah I thought it was just for looks
Thank you for sharing this important information listening from Bangs Texas, New subscriber
Thanks for watching and the sub👍🏾
I’ve been on the warpath looking for one of these filters in 3/8, I think they’ve been discontinued…. Type in any of these part numbers and you’ll get re directed to a 5/16
Should still work the same tho right?
@@aaronlewis7562 yes , absolutely but looks a little funky squeezing on a 3/8 hose onto a 5/16 barb.
Although I did find someone on eBay selling a bunch of the 3/8 return filters for GTO’s, Apparently GTO’s came from the factory with these .
You are the MAN!!! I had the same exact problem and this fixed it.
Thanks for watching
Good vid my man. Very helpful knowledge . 👍
Thanks so much for this video as my 70 roadrunner is having this issue here in hot Florida ,August 2023....I believe this will stop these issues for sure ....Thanks again !!
Good to reduce preheating. I have had some luck preventing vapor lock by placeing a heat shield between the HOT/heated intake manifold and fuel pump. They are close and there is some heat transfer. The heat riser gets well over 200F. Pure gas boils around 160F. Adding ethonal lowers the boiling point even more and begs for a liquid delivery system to fill with vapor/fuel steam and lose Its essential hydraulic characteristics. I used a trimmed out sardine can as an initial test and it has worked so far.
Thank you. Enjoy your ride. That's why I drive.
Yes totally agree this method really helped my car. The return line off that vapor separator fuel filter eliminated vapor lock. I still get heat soak after my car sits when hot but i just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for a bit until she clears the gas flood from the heat soak and away she goes. Good vid man👊
Do route the vapor line to the return line and install a second one way valve as well? 1984 rx7 4bbl carb
Hey man, nice fix. Good looking job. Thank you for the in-depth look underneath. I am having a problem on my 2004 suburban and this will help
Thanks for the part numbers. I thought there was only a 5/16 filter all this time.
i like your video ...where did you hook up the return line to??? i bought the three nipple filter now i dont know where to hook it up to
Yeah I was thinking the same
Thanks
Honestly, I think it looks great.
yo yo man....
Definitely need to do this to my '76 El Camino. Great video
Thanks for watching 👍🏾
thanks for the video
Is it safe to use rubber line over metal lines ?
Great video, thank for the info. If you don’t mind me asking how did you return the fuel to the tank? Where is the entry point?
Did u get an answer what to attach the return line to on the tank?
@@mattheweitutis6865 no not really . . . Still trying to figure out what would be best for my situation.
Hook to your existing return line running back to your tank. If you don't have one, there's videos on how to install one. Though I will say check your sending unit in your tank first, many of them have a connection for fuel return if they were ever replaced, or were close enough in age to models that use return lines.
Definitely going to try this out on my 65 beetle
how did it work? where did you put the filter in relation to the tank/engine?
That return nipple on your filter should be mounted up, on top, vapor goes up to escape right? Even though I have that vapor separator and an electric pump controlled by a toggle switch to push cooler fuel through the mechanical pump,by the way, this does work, I am going to try the heat shielding as you suggested. Thanks for the video.
Sorry about to add this filter myself keeping stock fuel pump tho and already found a return line. Question is is the filter installed in between pump and carb or between tank and pump
From the pump to carb
By any chance does your fuel pump have a return off the pump..meaning 3 line pump or just 2?
I put in an electric fuel pump, one line in one line out.
Thanks. I learned today that ethanol is part of the problem, cuz ethanol has a lower boiling point than petroleum gas.
Thanks Have an S/10 With 350 motor With Vapor Lock Now
👍🏾
I’m having very similar problems with my classic 82 Mini.
Cheap fix, no problems since.
This filter caused vapor lock on my Ramcharger when I got rid of that style of filter I had no more vapor lock!
My 81 Chevy only vapor locks when it's 100° or more outside. An electric fuel pump helped a lot. Next summer I am going to add a vapor separator fuel filter and see if that solves the rest of the problem.
Thanks man
Awesome video just have one question maybe a dumb question but did your car originally have a a return line? I having issues with vapor lock but my car doesn’t have a return line I was thinking of running a line just like you but I would have to drill a hole on my tank or how would I do it? I also don’t have an electric pump just stick mechanical
I have a mechanical fuel pump with a return line from the tank that connects to the fuel pump on side of my engine. How could I connect the vapor separator filter into the return line that’s already connected to fuel pump Could I use a Y barbed fitting On return line? Everything else I understand. All help appreciated.
Dude thanks for the WIX part number. There are other videos out there but they don't give the filter number. I'm not about to go into O'Reallies and try to describe it to them.
Is it possible this can happen with a 2007 Toyota . Never have any issues cranking in the morning it runs fun but after it gets up to normal operating temperature and i cut it off and wait a few mins and go to crank it sometomes it will have a rough start or not start but if i wait awhile it will crank back up.
How you put the return line in the gas tank so it can go in???
I used the original return line. If your car doesn’t have a return line, then you need to add one. Also make sure you have a sending unit with a return line.
@@hersh51 you mean you branched into it?
Ha, wish my engine looks like yours. Question: at 11:40 , is that a fuel filter or electric pump?
Use metal zip tie. Those plastic zip ties won't last and all those heat wrap will fall off all over the place.
Thanks for the very helpful advice you're a good man. Geetings from Australia
Have a 1969 Camaroe, having same problem, Great stuff
does the heat shield help at all ...also did the return line take away the vapor lock
Haven’t had any problems since.
Thank You my friend. You explanation and direction helped me solve an issue I've dealt with for quite some time. May GOD Bless you for your talent and your willingness to share your knowledge with me and others. You sir are a true Gentleman : Thank You Again !
Dude, I had been having this issue for a while myself. I just found this out. I have gone through 2 carburetors, all kinds of issues not knowing what this was. My car actually has a dedicated return line that was not connected. I was told it was unnecessary. I just found out about the Wix filter etc. I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental. Here is a clip of my car ua-cam.com/video/evqPWCIxM0g/v-deo.html thanks! I subscribed.
I have a 82 chevy truck c30 with 350..is it possible to tee in the fuel vapor line from fuel filter to stock fuel vapor charcoal canister .
My 84 C10 stock setup has the 2nd outlet made into the fuel pump itself that goes the the charcoal canister. The canister is also hooked into the tank, top of the carb bowl and runs to a vaccum port on the intake .
Edward to answer your question, anything is possible but NO that will not work. The vapor line you speak of from the fuel filter isn't a vapor line it's liquid fuel that returns back to the tank. That liquid also contains some vapor fuel when it's boiling and gets carried back to the tank with mostly liquid gasoline. Therefore you can NOT tie that return line to the stock fuel vapor charcoal canister because it's not a vapor line it's a liquid return line. I think the problem is people are confusing the fact that that filter removes vapor from the fuel lines and think it gives off vapors in that extra port on the filter. Not so. Liquid fuel passes through both the inlet and outlet ports on the fuel filter. The third port is merely there to allow fuel to continuously flow back to the tank to keep the fuel cooler than if it were just standing in the lines as it's slowly being consumed by the engine running. As the fuel flows through this extra port and is returned to the tank it will ALSO remove and vapor that might be otherwise formed if the fuel lies stagnant in the line and boils from the radiant heat from an exhaust manifold. Hope this helps you understand how this filter helps. And yes I would install this filter as close as possible to the carburetor since the extra port will flush the hot liquid fuel back to the tank and prevent vapor lock all the way up to where the filter is installed since it will be dumping fuel from that point back to the tank and keeping that supply line flowing with cool fuel from the tank.
@@roberts5118 thank you for responding to my questions.your video was very informative.
@@edwardmcmillenjr8443 ok but it wasn't my video I merely commented lol
if you see this message I need a fix for the fuel lines to the fuel filter and to the tank and return they all are overlapped with 2 clamps on them
Crumpled aluminum foil on the fuel lines was a quick fix in the 70's to prevent vapor lock...
I just built my 1st 50 gmc truck and having this say problem. Thank u for u taking the time to help others. A big thank u.
i want to do the same return line to my car but how do i plumb it back into the tank i dont have an opening port on my tank
Did u get a reply?
@@mattheweitutis6865 yes , i tapped a hole and welded in a 1/4 inch tube on my sending unit
@@jimgee2676 thanks Jim
Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome. Thank you sir
Great Video-------also , has anyone mentioned to you about the older vehicles having fuel caps that were vented to allow the vapors out. You cant buy them now because of EPA and the new ones say they are "vented" and the auto parts guy will try to sell you one but it is not made the same
I dont care what it looks liks, as long as it works.
Does the miro fuel pump do good with return
How’d you getting the line into the fuel tank?
If you have a return line it will be in the tank. If not you will need to add the return line.
@@hersh51 ~ they make an adapter that clamps around the filler neck where you put gas in drill a hole in it clamp it around filler neck and hook up return line ( if you don`t have a return line on your sending unit ! what i do to older cars !
Great video! Very clearly explained
looks good to me.
👍🏾
the only thing you missed is how to install it to the tank.
Uh..uhhh..ummmh. eh uh
How did you connect to fuel tank?
Do you own stock in zip tie?
Did not work for me
Hersch. Thanks friend. I am gonna tackle this on my 68 Chrysler. Question for you. The return line you ran, how did u and where on the tank did u attach? Was there already a access point on the tank to tap into?
Tank had a factory return
Thanks. I need one of them. That happens to me when I sit in the drive-thru on hot days
Do I have to drill a hole in my tank for the return line?
Lookin pretty good to me.
Great explain
Looks good 👍🏻
GREAT JOB, SIR!!!!!!
how did the vapor line back to the tank tap into the fuel tank did you already have a factory return line
Put it on the factory
I have a factory return line on my sending unit.
I hate! When i drive my car i turn it off then try to restart . crank over so....slow
This is my problem to,you fixed it?
That was my problem too.
@@hersh51 did you fix it
Hi, in order for the vapor separator filter to work properly the inlet and return line need to be placed downwards, and the outlet should be pointing up due to the way these filters are designed.
Not true at all. The only function of the filter is to relieve pressure.
@@SOLDOZER actually Ivan's not wrong, any separator worth its salt has a 1/16th vent going into a 1/4 inch return line. This 1/16th vent needa to be on top in order to allow the vapor out, but the size of the whole maintains fuel delivery to the outlet the way its supposed to. All it is is a relief hole for vapor and excessively pressurized fuel, but it has to be faced correctly or it won't work effectively. You'd have to reprime (long cranking cycle in other words) before fuel gets where it's supposed to be again. You'd still experience a few other symptoms of vapor lock due to trying to push that vapor through your carburetor.
Nice solution. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Good job man, good job.
Thank you for the very clear and easy to understand pathways and I liked how you opened up explaining what a vapor lock is and what the heat soak is that made things more clear for me thank you great job
Thanks for sharing ..this kinda stuff came about in the 70s on up and is usually forgotten about and ditched when the smog / emissions stuff is removed.
Wasn't present in 60s era cars though but a great fix to common problems that the factory addressed in the 70s. Trick is to install a return line into a tank that never had one stock and where on the tank .Would be interesting to see people solutions .
Added info.
The wix 33041 is for 3/8 lines.
The wix 33040 is for 5/16 lines.