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I wrapped my starter with the DEI wrap, it still does it, I have Hooker Headers on my 67 Camaro, looks like I’m getting a new starter.😂 Great channel by the way, subscribing for sure, Thanks for the advice.
Welcome to the FMG family... also check your wiring connections, sometimes those loosen up too. Let us know what ends up fixing the problem. Thanks for the comment!
Same I just did a motor swap in my 77 Grand Prix. It now has a 400 from a 68 firebird and I’m having this issue now. After it’s running for twenty minutes.
Where were you forty-something years ago? I had a 1950 Chevrolet car for 17 years and always had this problem even after changing the engine or the starter. I had to roll and pop the clutch when the car was hot. Cold - no problem.
Here running a 1995 Nissan D21. In the last year, I've gone through 5 starters. Decided today to get a heat protection sleeve for my new one. I hope you solved my biggest budget expense man!
So here's an update that I forgot to give y'all. Sorry about that. I ended up doing some redneck science and added an aluminum plate between the starter and engine. This plate had a small copper tube going through it that had water going through with a separate radiator for itself. After that I added a second sleeve around the starter. The first sleeve actually started smoking on the side closest to the oil pan. That was the final straw Since the redneck science event back in May, I've yet to replace the starter. Again I apologize for the late update
Wow man, you just replicate what I am experiencing now days on my newly rebuild engine. I thought it was something wrong with the engine timing that it won't crank when car gets hot.
I went through the same thing... try shielding the starter, and checking all of the connectors first. Then spend the money on a high torque mini starter. Let us know how it goes!
Never had this problem until I installed a new Cvr 3hp into a 385 series 460 bbf, the starters in ford don’t need shimming as per their website instructions and no shims are provided or listed, I emailed them and they sent me 2 shims to space/ move out the starter by 3mm, I only installed 1, so far it’s working ok,
I also have a pretty annoying heat soak issue. I thought maybe it was my timing but I'm at 12 degrees initial and it shouldn't cause that. Yours sounded just like mine does. Good job, great video man.
Thanks Brother! Be sure to check all wiring connections, grounds, etc... sometimes those loosen when warm too. Let us know what fixes the problem! Thanks for the comment.
Great job 👏. Thanks for the educational info. I have this starter problem with my C6 Z06. My local Chevrolet dealership installed a new starter about 2 years ago then after a year this problem started again, the only way to start my beautiful little sunshine yellow C6 Z06 is with optima yellow battery. Now it’s time to go further with the the wrap blanket, starter heat shield & titanium exhaust heat wrap.
thanks for the thorough explanation. I think this was happening to my c6. just threw a new starter in, had the AC on while detailing the interior for an hour or so (hot FL day) went straight to fill up with gas and boom sat not starting for over 30min at the gas station cooling then fired right up. this explains it, will insulate or throw on a better starter (in a C6 the starter is basically hugging the Catalytic converter)
Yeah, frustrating... I'm glad I was able to plant a seed as to what might be going on. Hopefully that thermal wrap does the trick! Thanks for the comment.
What happens if you have the same issue except the exact opposite. my vehicle will not start when it’s cold like below 60° but once I get it set up for the day (I have to apply heat with the heat gun to do so in the morning.) I’m able to turn it off and turn it back on. No problem once the engine it’s hot.
Ohhhh wow! Haven't heard of that... maybe check the wiring connectors? Could be loose when cold???? I have no clue... if you figure it out, please let us know what the fix was. Thanks!
Monty--Another update to close the loop. The following changes were made to my Trans Am. New positive cable to the solenoid; the Promaster model 3655 received a DEI heat shield wrap; the hot wire to the solenoid was reused but it received 10" of DEI heat shielding wrap starting at the S terminal; then, rather than replacing my ACDelco battery series 78 I opted for a larger version with more CCA which had side and top mount terminals. New terminal bolts were used on the positive and negative side terminal and the top terminals are only being used only with the battery tender. These changes resulted in a faster cranking of the Pontiac engine and robust starts. It's been a long time since it started briskly. I have also instituted a bi-weekly start schedule for the car so battery tender usage will be far less. These mods seem to have corrected things!
Saaaaweeeet! Great to hear, Bill! Awesome corrective actions... I know that'll give you many years of awesome starting confidence! Thanks for sharing your fixes. See ya soon!
I went thru multiple problems with my IMI starter I bought from Ames. It chewed up two flywheels in less than 1000 miles. I set all spec measurements recommended by the manufacturer. I have less room between the headers and the oil pan that you have. I have the Milodon pan that widens out on the bottom. And OBX-R stainless headers.I also replaced the starter to the summit version mini starter. You put out alot of good vidoes. Watched many.
Thanks Vern... sorry to hear about the IMI issues. I'm still scratching my head as I couldn't figure out how to get better engagement, per their instructions. Hope it stays together for me... ha, ha... thanks again for sharing your experience. See ya!
Yup, that sucks... when you change out that starter, check all your connections for corrosion/loose terminals, and consider getting a heat wrap for the starter too. Good luck!
Logically, I don't know how I feel about DEI wrap. When starter is installed, it will still absorb heat from the mating surfaces and the mounting bolts. This will cause heat to be trapped in wrapped in a blanket. In addition, when wrapped, you have even less of a chance for air to cool it. I'd need to see actual lab performance results.
Man I bought this 1964 Oldsmobile dynamic 88 with the 394 and it has been a nightmare to find parts for my starter Will turn when it's hot but not fast enough to turn the engine on. Just bought it rebuilt to which sucks. Thinking of running a fan on it to see if that helps with cooling since I can't find one of these many starters that will fit my engine.
I hear you ... totally frustrating. First things first, try DEI starter wrap. If that doesn't help, look into using a remote solenoid. Let us know how it goes!
My '79 6.6 TA has been plagued for many, many years with what amounts to heat soak. Even when new (I am orig owner) there was trouble and often had to wait for the engine to cool down before the engine would start. Later with mods and headers the malady persisted...until..."mummy" wrap was put on the header tubes on the driver's side. That solved the no start and or hard start for over 20 years. With new Jet-Hot coated ceramic headers in place the problem returned. Thinking the coating would thwart the solenoid from over heating, I was 100% wrong. My plan is to install a DEI starter wrap to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't he next step step will be to wrap the header tubes, like I did long ago. Today this TA is just a show car. It sees little use. Drove to a venue 12 miles away and parked. Two minutes later I was asked to move the car to a different location and the engine would not start without a boost from my portable jumper. Received a trophy ... but the no start was embarrassing. Need to fix this.
Thanks for the comment Bill... definitely embarrassing when you can't start it, at a show. Been there. I'd agree it's too much heat from the headers. On another note, I've seen others use a remote solenoid, like on Fords... I don't know the details, but might be worth looking into. Let us know what fixes the issue!
I had this problem after moving the battery to the trunk. Started fine, but drive a couple miles and wouldnt start til it cooled. After some research, it seems to be a common issue after relocating the battery. At least on a Fox Mustang. Put in a ground, starter to subframe and added one from the battery to the subframe and its good to go
Ya that solution will work most all the time. They do make a heat shield which in addition to the solenoid covers a lot of the starter motor itself from exhaust heat. Another thing which can be done is to wrap all the exhaust tubes together, with themo wrap, where the header pipes get close to the starter. The last thing is, the Optima spiral wound plate batteries, at least back in the day, were considered deep cycle, good for a lot of engines. But with high compression ect. had to remove them and go to high amp flat plate design, and that would solve the hot start problem. We measured the amperage of the spiral wound vs the flat plate and the spiral deep cycles just didn't put through nearly as much amperage, at start-up. I wish the small permanent magnet starter motors were cheaper, then they would be all that I would run. I just thought I would share for those on more of a budget. Thanks!
I had excessive clearance on my 67 Firebird same as you, installing the same starter. It was about .050 over the maximum spec so I had a buddy of mine who is a machinist cut .060 off the inside flange of the mount. Came out perfect.
Gonna wrap stater . My cts v always starts good cold. But after i drive it and shut it off it sounds like its barely whirling over and battery is almost dead (which its not). When this happens my tach reads zero and engine has a miss to it . Crank position sensor is right beside starter. Ive replaced it before and worked ok for a bit but doing starter this time. Ive read online others with cts v have had this issue.
Yellow tops have like 700cca and are not anything fancy. The red top I think is 800. I would recommend a XS power D3400 1150cca instead. Also, Make sure that electric fan isnt drawing amps when you turn the key on.
My Ventura would do that but it was because of grounding not heat soak. I added more grounding towards the starter and never had that issue again. I run the optima battery and the stock starter. I have the exact same mini starter sitting on the shelf waiting to go on. Looks nice and the clearance is awesome! Thanks for the video
I have this problem with a high torque mini starter on a 383 stroker 550hp. just clicks when I try to start after driving. let it sit for awhile and it starts right up. I was told to buy a wrap and put on the starter and or headers. I did not know about centering the starter as it came with the motor. I will check that out. But would you say to wrap the starter or the header if centering the starter does not work. thanks from a very upset driver. And yes it is embarrassing when this happens!!!
Yeah Brother, I hated that feeling... one, check your terminal connections on all of the associated wiring. Sometimes they get loose with heat. Two, yes, definitely get a wrap for the starter. I got a DEI Starter Wrap. The part number is in the description. Let us know what works for you. Thanks for the comment!
Just as an FYi for future viewers. You mentioned the bolts for the mounting plate was torqued to 95 ft/lbs. it's actually 96 in/lbs according to the instructions. Otherwise a pretty good video. Would a DEI heat shield be over kill ???
Ha! Great catch... I totally agree, our heads are torqued to 95 ftlbs. lol. And, no, a DEI heat shield would never be overkill. Nothing wrong with protecting electronics from heat. Thanks Mark!
Recent gallbladder removal stopped me in my tracks....now I am ready to fix my starter problem or am I? Today, started the TA and repositioned it in the garage. Engine was cold. It sat for 2 minutes and then went to restart it. Engine would not turn over! Multimeter test of the battery voltage showed 12.53 v. The problem at the car show may have been heat soak, but now I am suspicious of the starter thinking it is fried. Also, took a measurement between the starter body and the closest tube header--7/64" only. Tomorrow I will pull the starter and the wires and test them. The starter has less than 70 miles on it. The name of it escapes me right now but will have it in my hand tomorrow. Stay tuned.
So you replaced a faulty starter with a new one. So why did the new starter not suffer from heat soak? The issue is a very simple rebuild of the old starter. A thorough cleaning of everything especially the commutator segments on the armature and a new brush plate. That solved the problem in my friends starter that I rebuilt.
Please help!... this has been going on with my 06 GTO LS2. It's a pretty expensive starter but sounds and acts just like the heat soak you explained. Will this cause damage to the starter itself? I rather not replace it all together since it's only about a year or so old
Sorry to hear that... I know the feeling. Yes, over time the starter will wear out faster. First step, try wrapping it with a shield. Second step, check all connections, including the wire crimps to make sure they're tight. Last step, new starter. Keep us posted! @@TECHNICIANIAM
Thanks for the video. Same issue on my 78 Nova. Definitely gonna get me a mini starter. Now just gotta figure out what to do about the rattle noise. My transmission shift linkage lays on top of the headers makes a annoying rattle noise when stopped and idling.
@@FastMonty : I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer SS AWD with long tubes. Each year I go through this issue and looking for a change. I was exaggerating about pulling the motor but I do have to remove a lot just to get my hands on it. Im not going to purchase that smaller starter as of yet. Your video is very knowledgeable I appreciate it.
1968-'69 AMC AMX 390. In my younger days, I figured it was heat soak when I burned up new starters. Now, old, fat, bald...I wrapped the headers and installed a mini starter. Still drags a little, so time to make a metal heat shield. I'm thinking a starter wrap/blanket might keep the heat in the starter?? Anyways, about time someone cranked and showed what a heat soaked hard start actually is.
This used to happen with my old Suzuki 800 after an engine overhaul was doen. I assumed that the engine needs to be run in before it will finally act 'normal'. never realised it was the starter. Same issue with a pre-owned Honda City/Jazz that I have purchased a month ago. It has left me embarrassed when the engine stalled while waiting in line in a drive-through and I couldnt start the car.
I don’t understand what about the new starter is going to stop the heat leak to the starter ? I’ve been having this same issue in my 1985 Chevy s10 with a rebuilt 350 in it and nothing seems to be working . I’m wondering what different kind of starter I can get that will eliminate the issue
Good question... you saw the size difference, right? That's one issue. The newer, smaller starters, are geared for higher torque too... you may want to check all of your connections, sometimes the connectors get loose under heat, and lose their connection. Might consider new, larger ground, and wiring. Let us know what ends up working for you.
My neighbor who’s a master mechanic and helping me with my 1965 Mustang sent me this video 😭 very informative thank you. Serious question: i think my starter is less than 10 y/o so I’m probably just going to buy a new one like you. I was also going to wrap that as you mentioned to avoid this problem in the future. I saw you maybe wrapped your headers in that product you discussed. Why not the starter? I would wrap that too in my case bc with my 289cid the starter is a PITA to get off, have to take suspension apart, it’s also about 2.5” from the headers. Also fingers crossed it’s not an issue with my bendix or flywheel but curious on the wrapping to prevent this again. It would be embarrassing at a car show, you’re right! Luckily mine went out in my garage lol.
Thanks Jake... and thank your neighbor for me too. I agree, get a new starter, AND wrap it. Nothing wrong with adding more heat security. Good luck with your project!
I have a 98 Pathfinder that does something similar, it will turn over but not fire after sitting for 15-45 minutes. It will start if I immediately try again before 15 minutes. Would this still be Heat Soak?
My first car 1970 chevelle 350 had this exact problem went through it getting it to start wore out 2 flywheel and going on my 7th starter when I traded for a dodge dart that I loved only because it would start and didn't worry to turn it off just 1978-2021 off a bit.but now I have a 1987 dodge with same problem but it's the carborator and instead of a better battery it needs starting fluid to get it to fire back up after going to the store and it is inbaresting pop the hood and splash a shot of stating flood.
Wow! Amazing how the littlest thing can make people like us loose our minds... ha, ha... thanks for sharing. Sorry we didn't know how to fix this, when you had the Chevelle. :))
After a few embarrassing heat soak start ups would I be ablebto get away with just a better heat shield and a upgraded solenoid. PA performance sells thier mini torque starters separate that bolts right on 94 95 mustang gets stock starters so can I just upgrade the solenoid to save some money or have I causes damage to my starter suffered heat soak
Great question Michel, in my opinion, yes, you could just wrap a brand new solenoid. As the solenoid is probably the biggest culprit to heat soak, versus the starter itself. And, if that doesn't do the trick, then you get a new starter. 😄 Hope that helps... good luck!
Great video and great idea, I didn't know about heat soak but was aware of vapor lock. I have seen the mini torque starters advertised before but never read up on the advantage of them just suspected that they were for higher compression motors. 👍
I have a 93 Silverado with a factory heat shield and I have changed my starter no less than 8 times. I have done a complete starter wrap, a separate heatshield rap. I have even wrapped my heat shield and nothing seems to stop heat soak. I have to change the starter every 8 months regardless
Wow, Seth... sorry to hear that. Are there any other starter manufacturers that are compatible? Maybe bump up your wire size, if you can? If you figure out the solution, please let us know.
Obviously heat isn’t the problem. Also, heat wraps will trap the heat from the solenoid itself and not be able to cool. Buy an EZ shield, but before that you should diagnose the problem.
Good video, although I don't subscribe to firing the parts cannon unnecessarily. Yes these mini starters are in fashion now, but just tossing your old starter is ridiculous. I bet you could have fixed it for one tenth of what your new starter cost. New brushes & springs, possibly a solenoid. Keep it stock, don't chop your inspection plate. Jury's still out on how durable the minis are, and I know 2 guys whose minis caused fires.
I don't necessarily like ditching parts, and/or getting rid of original equipment. BUT, the weight difference was shocking. Would love to learn more about why and how a mini starter started a fire. Definitely don't want that. Sounds like a possible wiring issue. Anyway, I appreciate the honest comment, thanks!
Really interesting... I've never heard of a starter catching on fire. It's always been the wire connections on the starter itself. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for that. Thanks!@@ercost60
Good question... I used a foam paint brush, and did NOT top coat it. Then I learned you can spray POR -15. Check out my video on that... ua-cam.com/video/upIvwU-claw/v-deo.html Keep at it, and can't wait to see your final result!
65 vette. Just installed mini starter which is lacking R terminal for yellow wire. I have HEI kit and forums say I don't need the yellow. Went to hook battery up and had sparks at starter. Am wondering if I need this high torque starter bypass wire to replace yellow wire which would also attach to S post on mini starter.
Brother Mark, sorry for your crazy situation... I too have an HEI distributor, AND a one wire alternator. I haven't looked in a while, but I'm pretty sure I have three wires going to my starter... the alternator, the ignition wire, and the battery. Sorry I'm not an expert on your set up and colors, but please do post your solution. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
@@FastMonty ok. I have a stock distributor with an HEI module. My car also runs a ceramic ballast before the coil which continues from the positive post to the “r” post on stock starter. The new mini torque has only a “s” post. I had to buy an American Autowire Starter Bypass Wires , part 50097, and run it from the coil to the “s” post on the new starter, replacing the old yellow wire. So now both the purple and new yellow go to “s” on new starter. Thanks to Dave Wilbur at American Autowire for tech support. Heat soak solved.
Did you ever end up having any problems with too big of the gap to the flywheel? I have the same motor and I just got this starter. I got about the same .180 gap. If it worked for you I’ll just try it out
Not sure if you figured it out yet but it is possible to put shims on onl one side (the outside bolt where your solenoid would be) to actually close that gap distance between flex plate or flywheel. But great video thanks!
Best I could tell, if I shim anything on the other side of the mounting block, the starter moves farther away, not closer. That said, you did remind me to reach out to IMI. So, I just did that... we'll see if they respond with a remedy. I'll let you know. Thanks for the comment!
Hello, I have a 1970 GTO Judge frame off rotisserie. Will the starter you have in the link work with a stock 400 with manifolds and a Muncie 4-speed transmission? I bought an aftermarket mini starter from Summit and it did not work because the clutch Fork was in the way. I have to leave the car running while I fill it up with gas because I'm afraid to turn it off.
Brother Douglas, I feel your pain. My opinion is that it "should work" because you can choose the mounting position with the different mounting holes of the starter to the mount. If you're still not sure, I'd ask Butler Performance, who sells the IMI starter. Hope that helps! (I have a hydraulic clutch now, so I don't know if the manual push rod gets in the way) Thanks for the comment! ... let us know how it goes.
Yeah, that's exactly what's happening... since your car is "relatively new", I'd buy a new starter, and see if you can wrap it with one of the DEI heat wraps I mentioned. That'll buy you more life, of that starter. (Check your wire location too, as they may be in need of heat protection) Have fun!
same problem on my HSV LS2 - partially resolved by improving connections on battery, but the problem still persists when stuck in heavy traffic and not going fast enough for the air to cool it.
@@FastMonty no worries - Ive seen a few ideas on youtube about making your own from foil and fibreglass both of which I have, so will try that, only issue is how to mount it.... high temperatures mean adhesive may not be a good idea - maybe some wire or something
LOL, yes... and no, I have long tube headers, so the heat is worse. Make sure you check all of your wire fittings, sometimes with age the terminals get loose or corroded. Let us know how it works out.
@@FastMonty i just bought one…Hopefully this helps…I installed the heatshield but it didnt work…it still gets hot…it seems like it got worse with the heat shield actually..i have to wait more then 10 minutes for it to start now..lets see if this mini torque starter does the trick…
I have same problem on my 70 gto with butler 461, still running 12 heads with high compression. Anyways noticed imi makes a 1.9 hp starter also. Do you think that is overkill on starter size ?
In your case, yeah, I'd get the larger starter for your high compression. FYI, my engine is around 9.5 to 1 compression and doing fine with the current starter. Hope it helps, and thanks for the comment!
I was left at the pump today in my 67 Camaro, I knew what it was right away, luckily two guys pushed me into a parking spot, it took a long time to cool down.
Can an overheated starter cause a stall? No, I don't think so. BUT, a heat soaked carburetor could do exactly that. The fuel inside the bowls gets too hot, and vaporizes before entering the airflow, causing Vapor Lock. OR, your fuel pump could be over heating. But, it's not the starter. Good luck!
I honestly don't know... BUT, if the symptoms match what I showed, you're having the same problem. (If your starter is over 10 years old, get a new one) If not, first off, check all of your cable connections for oxidation, etc... if that doesn't help, try wrapping the starter with DEI starter wrap... it's around $25 from Summit. Let us know what works! Thanks for the comment.
Okay I solved mine. Go back to basics. Factory they worked fine. My dually 454 gets super hot in Arizona. There’s a wire that goes from starter to coil?? It goes up there somewhere. You need to wrap that wire with heat shield wrapand use black tape. You have a nick or exposed wire causing heat to cause wire to stop carrying a current. I did this 5 years ago and I’ve never had another heat soak problem
Agreed... always good to check the wiring, and connections, cuz they get old too. Thanks for the report out of what worked for you. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
While cranking, the voltage going to the coil can drop below what the coil needs to run. The wire that runs from the starter to the coil, (usually marked "R") provides a maximum amount of voltage to the coil while cranking.
Awesome video. My 65 c10 takes 10 minutes to restart after long drives over 1 hour. The weird thing is that it doesnt even try to crank and even radiator fan does not turn on. Head lights do turn on. Ive heard the sound of starter heat soak sound but mine is no sound at all. Any suggestions?
If the battery is in the engine compartment, it might be getting too hot. Also check all wiring and connectors. Maybe a ground connector needs replacing? Let me know what you find out.
I have had the same issue and #2 there's your problem Optima batteries those batteries are JUNK and not like they use to be... i have found that commercial group 31 batteries from napa are far superior to car batteries, commercial batteries have alot more CCA and are built better the down fall is there size so I put mine in the trunk and used 1/0 battery cables now i how no problem starting my 514BBF on the hottest day, doesn't matter if i went in the store for a few minutes as you described but also you might want to check your timing?
Dude let me start by saying very good Diagnostic skills.. You’re competent Level is on point.. second I’m having the very same issues on a 2006 Yzf-R1 Motorcyle that my Mechanic is Currently Trying to resolve My situation was a little different from yours as in my case it may be that the starter brushes were on there way out and Starter itself was leaking fluid also, the battery was on its way out both were replaced and tested but then the starting Solenoid didn’t pass a Continuity test and that two had to be replaced I’m waiting on the outcome to be Determined? I’m keeping my fingers crossed thank you for your Informative post and keep up the good work!!
Thanks Brother... good to see my old school muscle diagnostics apply to more modern engines, including sport bikes. Yeah, when it comes down to it, electronics and high heat just don't work well together, long term. :) Thanks again for the comment! Good luck with your troubleshooting too...
@@FastMonty yeah starter is against the block under the intake manifold. Not sure why it's happening though since ski was designed to run like this with no heat shield and it has for the last 400+ houra
@@FastMonty next time it's out I'll also get temp readings all over it. They don't have temp gauges so no clue if this year its running hotter than normal
But yes if you are going to put a battery in the trunk it should be a sealed type, due to off gassing. Like the optima spiral wound but I would go with a AGM sealed flat plate design, as I don't have a high amperage tester. Like I had In the shops, If anyone has done starting amperage testing lately, on the different types of batteries please comment?
@@FastMonty Ya, back in the day 20-30 years ago, even with the same CCA rating the flat plate batteries would produce 50-100 amp more at the starter, during 15-30 seconds of starter turning. This is due to the CCA being based upon amperage over a minute or two, CCA is rated differently than what actually works with a high compression large motor. Even worse if it's rated under deep cycle rating.
And with any reasonably set up carb or FI system should start in a few seconds, so it dose not matter that the battery can crank at 50-100 amp less for two to three times as long. They don't start the engine!
Oh, I didn't say, but all engines like yours require a lot more cranking power when HOT than cold. So that is when your starting system actually gets tested.
Thanks. This is what’s happening to my Audi A8. Starts fine when cold. Just when hot it really turns slowly. Will replacing the starter fix the problem?
Thanks Mac... yeah, with modern cars, it typically means the starter is just getting old. Replacing it should fix it. (Keep in mind, I'm not an Audi expert, but chances are high that's the problem) Thanks again, and good luck!
Good question Bill... I have not had a chance to reach out about the excessive gear clearance. I'm pretty sure I got my steering wheel from OPGI, but that was like 8 years ago??? Yeah, that starter is awesome!
Thanks for this video - I just bought the IMI-108N to put in my '65 GTO - it will be here Friday. Did you ever get any feedback about your gear clearance issue? Now that you've had the starter for a while, what say you, like it? Love your vids!
You're welcome... No, I never got any feedback from IMI. That said, I haven't had any issues with it. I will be adding a HEI heat wrap eventually, just in case. :) Enjoy it, and thanks for being a part of the channel!
@@vernjohnson2891 Sorry to hear you had that problem. I've had mine in for a while and it seems to operate fine and doesn't make any suspicious noises. I did spend a fair amount of time during the install trying to verify clearance between the starter gear and my (manual trans) flywheel gear when they were engaged - and that was not a simple task. Ultimately I trusted the measurements I was getting and installed without any shim(s). So far so good. Hope you got your situation straightened out in the end.
These one size fits all "upgrades" are a bad idea. Proper starter engagement is crucial to ring and pinion life. All that mucking about with shims and "looks good enough"... ain't good enough! Half the guys doing this " upgrade" will mess up and destroy something now or later. Fix the stock starter.
Agreed. IF and ONLY if, you have an original starter. Otherwise the re-pops are a giant paper weight. You just reminded me to follow up with IMI for the fitment issue I had... thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/2FZA8dsG7Ls/v-deo.html SUMMIT says that in "proper installation" of these mini starters that the pinion will not extend to fully engage the ring gear, and "not to worry about it". That's the biggest bunch of BS in recent memory, certainly leading to improper and accelerated ring gear wear. You'll be left holding the bag with a broken ring gear in a year or two. A new pressure plate will cost $300-600 plus installation. Installing a cheap mini starter is false economy, leave that for the flippers.
Hahaha sounds exactly like the issue I’m having right now even up to the ups story it happened to me the same way. Only thing is my truck is newer 2007 ram 2500. The starter also manages to turn over the engine but it does kinda sound like it’s struggling, but not all that much. I let the engine cool down for about 30-45mins and it starts. It also fires up easily when I put in starter fluid. I try to use the starter fluid as little as possible. Usually letting it cool instead of using it, but if I’m in a pinch I’ll use it. I’m just trying to find the issue. Any insight lmk thx.
Great question Raine! I'm assuming it's the original starter... if so, it's probably on it's last legs. (sorry, not what you wanted to hear) Where the internal wiring is fatiguing due to age, etc... If you don't want to go jump out and buy a new starter to test, maybe try a starter heat wrap? Like this... www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-350118-1 Let me know what fixes it! (I'm no expert on newer cars. :))
Good question, Joe. No, it doesn't matter the age. In your case, you would just need a new starter, but try and wrap it with some sort of heat shield, so it'll last longer. Hope that helps!
My car has heat soak for the last 4 years, I been ignoring it.. now it's getting embarrassing and annoying when I restart it after engine is warm/hot.. wouldn't the starter have clocked out by now after 4 years if that's the problem?
Yeah, could be time for a new starter. Electronics and heat don't mix very well... you probably have better starter options out there, and you could wrap the new one. Good luck!
Heat soak is what affects junk starters. Those single sheer "High torque" mini starters are hot garbage. I'd definitely look into possibly getting a Small/Big chevy OEM high torque to mount up. I understand you have a pontiac, but GM likes to reuse stock. so maybe it's not that hard to swap or find a part that will work. last car I worked on with a starting issue was a 468 BBC Chevy in a 69 camaro. He had an MSD, Tilton, power master and some other starter in it that looked just like that.. They all crapped the bed only a few weeks after installing them. They basically sounded like the battery was dead all the time. No matter what battery you put in it, or jumper cables you used, it was a VERY Lazy crank. We threw his $300+ starter in the trash and put a 99 suburban OEM high torque starter in, and it legit almost cranked as fast as the thing idles.. It's been a couple years now and it STILL starts like new. Don't waste your money on that junk. LOL
Your videos are great. I am doing a engine rebuild on my 69 GTO, so your videos fit in with everything I am doing. Do you have the model number for the mini starter and where you purchased it?
Great to hear! Yeah, I typically leave all part numbers and links in the description.. .but, here it is again, have fun! butlerperformance.com/i-24453304-imi-pontiac-mini-starter-w-1-4-kw-motor-1964-later-block-mount-imi-108n.html?ref=search%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dimi
Is it also related to heat soak if the engine cranks fine once there are jump leads hooked on? I have a 76 Lincoln, and it starts perfectly fine when cold. The battery is also quite new and appears to be in good shape. It does however show the exact same issue as shown here. Once the engine is hot, it barely cranks over. That is until I hook up a jump starter or jump leads from another car. Then it fires up just fine again. I've since taken the engine out for a different fix, and I found out that the ground wire from the block to the firewall looks a bit burned, so I am suspecting that this is the culprit. Could it only be that, or is there definitely a heat soak going on as well? Btw, it also has this unique thing where the starter makes a whoosh noise right after starting the engine, as if something in it still spins freely after letting go of the ignition.
Great comment. To your point heat also affects the wiring, so I'd you have a questionable ground strap it will absolutely affect EVERYTHING, including your ignition system. Great comment!
@@FastMonty I put the engine back together and into the car. I've added two brand new and thicker ground wires to the block, and made sure to sand the contact surfaces to bare metal before they were attached. The whoosh sound is no longer there when the engine fires up, so that definitely seems related. But the heat soak still persists in the exact same way. If the engine is even a little bit warm after running less than 5 minutes, the starter already has issues cranking it and the thick red cable to the solenoid turns really hot. I'll have to wait until the engine is dead cold again. Hooking up a jump starter makes it go quicker again, but still doesn't feel like there's much force behind it. Not sure if it's either the starter or battery causing it, since the engine cranks over real quick when it's freezing cold outside. But I'm tempted to replace both either way for good measure.
Would heat soak be consistent with a LOW cranking voltage? I would have expected the increase in resistance in the starter coils to draw less current, and as a result, place less load on the battery, which in turn would cause a higher than normal cranking voltage. However, I seem to have the opposite - I do think I have a heat soak issue (perhaps because the heat shield is missing!), but my cranking voltage is low. (circa 8.5V near the battery). Perhaps the fact that the motor spins very slowly does increase the load on the battery, despite the increase in coil resistance?
Good question... In my opinion, the symptoms of "low cranking voltage" and "heat soak" are almost identical. The big difference with heat soak is when the engine is cold, the starter works just fine. But, when warm, it has difficulty. If you're having the same symptoms when cold, you need a new starter, or a new battery, or both. Naturally, electronics don't last forever, especially when they have to go through dramatic changes of temperature... I hope that helps?
@@FastMonty it does indeed start ok when cold. Battery & starter motor are brand new, but I discovered after replacing these that there is supposed to be a heat shield - for some reason mine is missing. (car is the Aussie Holden Caprice, which has an LS3 V8). Another issue is that the starter is aftermarket. So, next step is to put a genuine starter in, and fit the heat shield. I won't overthink the cranking voltage issue.
Thanks Amy... how old is the starter? It sounds like it might be on it's last legs... If you're going to get a new one, I highly recommend a mini-torque. Let me know.
@@FastMonty it's brand new starter,,just put in this Saturday May 15th,,,I went out to the garage this morning, I turned the key to start it,and I get nothing,no sound,it's dead cold, it has a brand new battery brand new ignition switch, brand new HEI distributor finally tuned, brand new voltage regulator,.... would the neutral safety switch have anything to do with it because I know it's tied into the solenoid ?
@@The_Hollywood_Mission Ohhh, noooo! That's frustrating. Is the battery dead? If not, yeah, you have to check the additional circuits. If the neutral switch is not wired correctly it would indeed not allow anything to happen. Back to the heat soak issue for a new starter... makes sure you check the grounding cable on the block, if it's corroded or loose, it may not allow current to flow. Keep me posted.
Ha! Great point. Or, is it 8 ft. lbs ?... that doesn't make sense either. LOL They still haven't got back to me on the engagement distance that I was measuring either. But, the starter is still working like a champ. Thanks!
@@FastMonty Cool!! I think GM typically sticks to 12 ft-lbs on most medium sized bolts and 6-10 on your small ones like 8-10 mm head heat shield bolts. I could be wrong, it's been about 12 years since I worked at the engine plant. If I'm right, then 8 ft-lbs doesn't seem so crazy I guess?
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the way you explain slow and clear for dummys like me? i appreciate that 😂 😂 lol 👍 👍
I resemble that remark. ha, ha... thanks!
Literally sitting in the ups store parking lot because I’m experiencing this problem now, so now I’m watching this 😭
Ohhhh Noooo! Welp, at least you can watch a few vids while the starter/solenoid cools off. :) Let us know what you do to fix it. Good luck!
I'm currently stuck at mcdonalds with the same problem. Lol
@@someguy3717 Dang... I hate the feeling. Hope you get it resolved soon!
@@FastMonty I had to wait 2 and a half hours for it to start again since it was so hot yesterday lol
@@someguy3717 Whooaaa... that's a lot of Big Macs!
3 years later, I see this video. You mentioned having this issue at a car show and how embarrassing it would be, well, it happened to me. 😅😅
Ahhhh, that sucks! Sorry, Craig... I clearly know the feeling. I hope it's an easy fix, keep us posted!
I wrapped my starter with the DEI wrap, it still does it, I have Hooker Headers on my 67 Camaro, looks like I’m getting a new starter.😂 Great channel by the way, subscribing for sure, Thanks for the advice.
Welcome to the FMG family... also check your wiring connections, sometimes those loosen up too. Let us know what ends up fixing the problem. Thanks for the comment!
Same I just did a motor swap in my 77 Grand Prix. It now has a 400 from a 68 firebird and I’m having this issue now. After it’s running for twenty minutes.
Nice motor choice... try DEI wrap first, if that doesn't help, change the starter out as I did. Keep us posted!
Where were you forty-something years ago? I had a 1950 Chevrolet car for 17 years and always had this problem even after changing the engine or the starter. I had to roll and pop the clutch when the car was hot. Cold - no problem.
Ha! Thanks David... yeah, crazy how it was an in bred issue, even when the cars were relatively new. Thanks for the comment!
Here running a 1995 Nissan D21. In the last year, I've gone through 5 starters. Decided today to get a heat protection sleeve for my new one. I hope you solved my biggest budget expense man!
I hope so too! Good luck, and keep us posted.
So here's an update that I forgot to give y'all. Sorry about that.
I ended up doing some redneck science and added an aluminum plate between the starter and engine. This plate had a small copper tube going through it that had water going through with a separate radiator for itself. After that I added a second sleeve around the starter.
The first sleeve actually started smoking on the side closest to the oil pan. That was the final straw
Since the redneck science event back in May, I've yet to replace the starter. Again I apologize for the late update
having this problem with my 66 nova... gonna change the starter to the high torque..will let you know
I hope it works for ya... be sure to also check the wire terminals. Sometimes those loosen over time too... looking forward to the update.
Wow man, you just replicate what I am experiencing now days on my newly rebuild engine. I thought it was something wrong with the engine timing that it won't crank when car gets hot.
I went through the same thing... try shielding the starter, and checking all of the connectors first. Then spend the money on a high torque mini starter. Let us know how it goes!
Yeah, I'll do whatever possible to prevent this from happening. Last thing is to replace the starter. Will let you know.
Never had this problem until I installed a new Cvr 3hp into a 385 series 460 bbf, the starters in ford don’t need shimming as per their website instructions and no shims are provided or listed, I emailed them and they sent me 2 shims to space/ move out the starter by 3mm, I only installed 1, so far it’s working ok,
Awesome. Thanks for sharing!
I also have a pretty annoying heat soak issue. I thought maybe it was my timing but I'm at 12 degrees initial and it shouldn't cause that. Yours sounded just like mine does. Good job, great video man.
Thanks Brother! Be sure to check all wiring connections, grounds, etc... sometimes those loosen when warm too. Let us know what fixes the problem! Thanks for the comment.
Great job 👏. Thanks for the educational info.
I have this starter problem with my C6 Z06.
My local Chevrolet dealership installed a new starter about 2 years ago then after a year this problem started again, the only way to start my beautiful little sunshine yellow C6 Z06 is with optima yellow battery. Now it’s time to go further with the the wrap blanket, starter heat shield & titanium exhaust heat wrap.
Awesome! I love my yellow top too... hope the wrap and shielding give you some extended life. Thanks for the comment!
Solve your issue?
thanks for the thorough explanation. I think this was happening to my c6. just threw a new starter in, had the AC on while detailing the interior for an hour or so (hot FL day) went straight to fill up with gas and boom sat not starting for over 30min at the gas station cooling then fired right up. this explains it, will insulate or throw on a better starter (in a C6 the starter is basically hugging the Catalytic converter)
Yeah, frustrating... I'm glad I was able to plant a seed as to what might be going on. Hopefully that thermal wrap does the trick! Thanks for the comment.
What happens if you have the same issue except the exact opposite. my vehicle will not start when it’s cold like below 60° but once I get it set up for the day (I have to apply heat with the heat gun to do so in the morning.) I’m able to turn it off and turn it back on. No problem once the engine it’s hot.
Ohhhh wow! Haven't heard of that... maybe check the wiring connectors? Could be loose when cold???? I have no clue... if you figure it out, please let us know what the fix was. Thanks!
Exactly what happens on my 1991 chevy obs and bought a summit racing mini high torque starter and 220 amp alternator.
That's great! Thanks for sharing!
Monty--Another update to close the loop. The following changes were made to my Trans Am. New positive cable to the solenoid; the Promaster model 3655 received a DEI heat shield wrap; the hot wire to the solenoid was reused but it received 10" of DEI heat shielding wrap starting at the S terminal; then, rather than replacing my ACDelco battery series 78 I opted for a larger version with more CCA which had side and top mount terminals. New terminal bolts were used on the positive and negative side terminal and the top terminals are only being used only with the battery tender. These changes resulted in a faster cranking of the Pontiac engine and robust starts. It's been a long time since it started briskly. I have also instituted a bi-weekly start schedule for the car so battery tender usage will be far less. These mods seem to have corrected things!
Saaaaweeeet! Great to hear, Bill! Awesome corrective actions... I know that'll give you many years of awesome starting confidence! Thanks for sharing your fixes. See ya soon!
I went thru multiple problems with my IMI starter I bought from Ames. It chewed up two flywheels in less than 1000 miles. I set all spec measurements recommended by the manufacturer. I have less room between the headers and the oil pan that you have. I have the Milodon pan that widens out on the bottom. And OBX-R stainless headers.I also replaced the starter to the summit version mini starter. You put out alot of good vidoes. Watched many.
Thanks Vern... sorry to hear about the IMI issues. I'm still scratching my head as I couldn't figure out how to get better engagement, per their instructions. Hope it stays together for me... ha, ha... thanks again for sharing your experience. See ya!
Thanks for video, my car 1979 buick regal 301 pontaic 301 engine 49.L , this what happen after trip , its so crazy, I took 30 minutes to run a gain.
Yup, that sucks... when you change out that starter, check all your connections for corrosion/loose terminals, and consider getting a heat wrap for the starter too. Good luck!
Logically, I don't know how I feel about DEI wrap. When starter is installed, it will still absorb heat from the mating surfaces and the mounting bolts. This will cause heat to be trapped in wrapped in a blanket. In addition, when wrapped, you have even less of a chance for air to cool it. I'd need to see actual lab performance results.
I hear you, but what needs to be considered is the mass of the original starter, versus the mini version. More mass equals more retained heat.
Man I bought this 1964 Oldsmobile dynamic 88 with the 394 and it has been a nightmare to find parts for my starter Will turn when it's hot but not fast enough to turn the engine on. Just bought it rebuilt to which sucks. Thinking of running a fan on it to see if that helps with cooling since I can't find one of these many starters that will fit my engine.
I hear you ... totally frustrating. First things first, try DEI starter wrap. If that doesn't help, look into using a remote solenoid. Let us know how it goes!
My '79 6.6 TA has been plagued for many, many years with what amounts to heat soak. Even when new (I am orig owner) there was trouble and often had to wait for the engine to cool down before the engine would start. Later with mods and headers the malady persisted...until..."mummy" wrap was put on the header tubes on the driver's side. That solved the no start and or hard start for over 20 years. With new Jet-Hot coated ceramic headers in place the problem returned. Thinking the coating would thwart the solenoid from over heating, I was 100% wrong. My plan is to install a DEI starter wrap to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't he next step step will be to wrap the header tubes, like I did long ago. Today this TA is just a show car. It sees little use. Drove to a venue 12 miles away and parked. Two minutes later I was asked to move the car to a different location and the engine would not start without a boost from my portable jumper. Received a trophy ... but the no start was embarrassing. Need to fix this.
Thanks for the comment Bill... definitely embarrassing when you can't start it, at a show. Been there. I'd agree it's too much heat from the headers. On another note, I've seen others use a remote solenoid, like on Fords... I don't know the details, but might be worth looking into. Let us know what fixes the issue!
Very useful video…thanks…BTW Great Colour GTO 👍🏽👍🏽🇬🇧
Glad it helped... and thanks!
I had this problem after moving the battery to the trunk. Started fine, but drive a couple miles and wouldnt start til it cooled. After some research, it seems to be a common issue after relocating the battery. At least on a Fox Mustang. Put in a ground, starter to subframe and added one from the battery to the subframe and its good to go
Ohhh, very interesting... I too have a trunk mount battery, but I'm also covered in ground straps. ha, ha... thanks for sharing!
Ya that solution will work most all the time. They do make a heat shield which in addition to the solenoid covers a lot of the starter motor itself from exhaust heat. Another thing which can be done is to wrap all the exhaust tubes together, with themo wrap, where the header pipes get close to the starter. The last thing is, the Optima spiral wound plate batteries, at least back in the day, were considered deep cycle, good for a lot of engines. But with high compression ect. had to remove them and go to high amp flat plate design, and that would solve the hot start problem. We measured the amperage of the spiral wound vs the flat plate and the spiral deep cycles just didn't put through nearly as much amperage, at start-up. I wish the small permanent magnet starter motors were cheaper, then they would be all that I would run. I just thought I would share for those on more of a budget. Thanks!
Good stuff Mark! Yeah, Mini Torque WITH a heat shield, totally ideal. Thanks for the battery knowledge.
@@FastMonty Agreed!
I had excessive clearance on my 67 Firebird same as you, installing the same starter. It was about .050 over the maximum spec so I had a buddy of mine who is a machinist cut .060 off the inside flange of the mount. Came out perfect.
Yup, that would work. Another reason for me to buy a lathe. Ha ha.
thanks for speaking to me like a dad :)
Welp, that's what Dad's do... babhabhbhahahaaa Thanks for the laugh
HAHA NP@@FastMonty
Gonna wrap stater . My cts v always starts good cold. But after i drive it and shut it off it sounds like its barely whirling over and battery is almost dead (which its not). When this happens my tach reads zero and engine has a miss to it . Crank position sensor is right beside starter. Ive replaced it before and worked ok for a bit but doing starter this time. Ive read online others with cts v have had this issue.
Thanks for sharing! Keep us posted on how it works out.
Great video. Have you ever use solenoid starter to avoid heat soak? And so, does it work?
Thanks... I think what you mean is a REMOTE solenoid. Which is the next level, but yes, that works great!
Yellow tops have like 700cca and are not anything fancy. The red top I think is 800. I would recommend a XS power D3400 1150cca instead. Also, Make sure that electric fan isnt drawing amps when you turn the key on.
Good points.. will keep that in mind when I get a new battery. Thanks!
My Ventura would do that but it was because of grounding not heat soak. I added more grounding towards the starter and never had that issue again. I run the optima battery and the stock starter. I have the exact same mini starter sitting on the shelf waiting to go on. Looks nice and the clearance is awesome! Thanks for the video
You won't regret putting it in... thanks for the comment!
My brand new starter on my chevy did this after about a month of use.
Hmmm, they don't make them like they used to, eh? Check the wiring connections too... let us know what you end up doing to fix it.
I have this problem with a high torque mini starter on a 383 stroker 550hp. just clicks when I try to start after driving. let it sit for awhile and it starts right up. I was told to buy a wrap and put on the starter and or headers. I did not know about centering the starter as it came with the motor. I will check that out. But would you say to wrap the starter or the header if centering the starter does not work. thanks from a very upset driver. And yes it is embarrassing when this happens!!!
Yeah Brother, I hated that feeling... one, check your terminal connections on all of the associated wiring. Sometimes they get loose with heat. Two, yes, definitely get a wrap for the starter. I got a DEI Starter Wrap. The part number is in the description. Let us know what works for you. Thanks for the comment!
Just as an FYi for future viewers. You mentioned the bolts for the mounting plate was torqued to 95 ft/lbs. it's actually 96 in/lbs according to the instructions. Otherwise a pretty good video. Would a DEI heat shield be over kill ???
Ha! Great catch... I totally agree, our heads are torqued to 95 ftlbs. lol. And, no, a DEI heat shield would never be overkill. Nothing wrong with protecting electronics from heat. Thanks Mark!
Recent gallbladder removal stopped me in my tracks....now I am ready to fix my starter problem or am I? Today, started the TA and repositioned it in the garage. Engine was cold. It sat for 2 minutes and then went to restart it. Engine would not turn over! Multimeter test of the battery voltage showed 12.53 v. The problem at the car show may have been heat soak, but now I am suspicious of the starter thinking it is fried. Also, took a measurement between the starter body and the closest tube header--7/64" only. Tomorrow I will pull the starter and the wires and test them. The starter has less than 70 miles on it. The name of it escapes me right now but will have it in my hand tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Dang Bill... sorry to hear about a surgery stopping you in your tracks. Yeah, keep us posted on what you find out. Maybe a loose wire terminal?
Thanks great vid and info... My old classic been leaving me stranded ...SUPER EMBARRASSED SMH same issue
I know the feeling... hope you get it sorted out.
So you replaced a faulty starter with a new one. So why did the new starter not suffer from heat soak? The issue is a very simple rebuild of the old starter. A thorough cleaning of everything especially the commutator segments on the armature and a new brush plate. That solved the problem in my friends starter that I rebuilt.
yup, that makes sense. Just like the old school method of hitting the starter with a hammer to get it working... ha, ha.. thanks for the tip!
Please help!... this has been going on with my 06 GTO LS2. It's a pretty expensive starter but sounds and acts just like the heat soak you explained. Will this cause damage to the starter itself? I rather not replace it all together since it's only about a year or so old
It's been happening for quite some time now if that makes any difference.
Sorry to hear that... I know the feeling. Yes, over time the starter will wear out faster. First step, try wrapping it with a shield. Second step, check all connections, including the wire crimps to make sure they're tight. Last step, new starter. Keep us posted! @@TECHNICIANIAM
Copy that I will. Thank you for the help!!
Welcome! Let us know the fix, when you figure it out. @@TECHNICIANIAM
Thanks for the video. Same issue on my 78 Nova. Definitely gonna get me a mini starter. Now just gotta figure out what to do about the rattle noise. My transmission shift linkage lays on top of the headers makes a annoying rattle noise when stopped and idling.
Welcome... yeah, I know the frustration. For the rattle, maybe wrap the headers, or the linkage. Might deaden the noise? Good luck!
I had the same problem, check your Torque convertor bolts they may be loose
Great video and beautiful GTO!
Thanks Tony!
It’s nice to see something with all the room you can possibly have. I have to nearly pull the motor out to get to mine
Yeah, too bad not all engines are built the same, huh? Sorry to hear you don't have easy access. Thanks for the comment.
@@FastMonty : I have a 2008 Chevy trailblazer SS AWD with long tubes. Each year I go through this issue and looking for a change. I was exaggerating about pulling the motor but I do have to remove a lot just to get my hands on it. Im not going to purchase that smaller starter as of yet. Your video is very knowledgeable I appreciate it.
@@dannyf4447 I hear ya... hopefully just wrapping your starter with a heat shield will prolong it's life... thanks for the comment!
I have the same exact problem with my 1969 GTO. Thanks for the video!!!
Great to hear! Well, you know what I mean... glad I was able to help. Thanks for the comment
1968-'69 AMC AMX 390. In my younger days, I figured it was heat soak when I burned up new starters. Now, old, fat, bald...I wrapped the headers and installed a mini starter. Still drags a little, so time to make a metal heat shield. I'm thinking a starter wrap/blanket might keep the heat in the starter??
Anyways, about time someone cranked and showed what a heat soaked hard start actually is.
Thanks, Big Earn. Yeah, I'd agree, throw a heat wrap on there. Summit carries them from DEI, for around $25. Thanks for the comment!
Great video Monty! 👍
Thanks Dale!
This used to happen with my old Suzuki 800 after an engine overhaul was doen. I assumed that the engine needs to be run in before it will finally act 'normal'. never realised it was the starter. Same issue with a pre-owned Honda City/Jazz that I have purchased a month ago. It has left me embarrassed when the engine stalled while waiting in line in a drive-through and I couldnt start the car.
Yeah, the struggle, and embarrassment is real! Hope I was able to give you some ideas for cutting down that heat. Thanks for sharing!
I don’t understand what about the new starter is going to stop the heat leak to the starter ? I’ve been having this same issue in my 1985 Chevy s10 with a rebuilt 350 in it and nothing seems to be working . I’m wondering what different kind of starter I can get that will eliminate the issue
Good question... you saw the size difference, right? That's one issue. The newer, smaller starters, are geared for higher torque too... you may want to check all of your connections, sometimes the connectors get loose under heat, and lose their connection. Might consider new, larger ground, and wiring. Let us know what ends up working for you.
My neighbor who’s a master mechanic and helping me with my 1965 Mustang sent me this video 😭 very informative thank you. Serious question: i think my starter is less than 10 y/o so I’m probably just going to buy a new one like you. I was also going to wrap that as you mentioned to avoid this problem in the future. I saw you maybe wrapped your headers in that product you discussed. Why not the starter? I would wrap that too in my case bc with my 289cid the starter is a PITA to get off, have to take suspension apart, it’s also about 2.5” from the headers. Also fingers crossed it’s not an issue with my bendix or flywheel but curious on the wrapping to prevent this again. It would be embarrassing at a car show, you’re right! Luckily mine went out in my garage lol.
Thanks Jake... and thank your neighbor for me too. I agree, get a new starter, AND wrap it. Nothing wrong with adding more heat security. Good luck with your project!
Thanks. I really appreciate you teaching me about heat soak and how to fix it.
Thanks Robert... glad I could help.
agreed
I have a 98 Pathfinder that does something similar, it will turn over but not fire after sitting for 15-45 minutes. It will start if I immediately try again before 15 minutes. Would this still be Heat Soak?
Good question... most likely, yes. especially if it's older than 10 years old. The fix is getting a new one. let us know!
My first car 1970 chevelle 350 had this exact problem went through it getting it to start wore out 2 flywheel and going on my 7th starter when I traded for a dodge dart that I loved only because it would start and didn't worry to turn it off just 1978-2021 off a bit.but now I have a 1987 dodge with same problem but it's the carborator and instead of a better battery it needs starting fluid to get it to fire back up after going to the store and it is inbaresting pop the hood and splash a shot of stating flood.
Wow! Amazing how the littlest thing can make people like us loose our minds... ha, ha... thanks for sharing. Sorry we didn't know how to fix this, when you had the Chevelle. :))
After a few embarrassing heat soak start ups would I be ablebto get away with just a better heat shield and a upgraded solenoid. PA performance sells thier mini torque starters separate that bolts right on 94 95 mustang gets stock starters so can I just upgrade the solenoid to save some money or have I causes damage to my starter suffered heat soak
Great question Michel, in my opinion, yes, you could just wrap a brand new solenoid. As the solenoid is probably the biggest culprit to heat soak, versus the starter itself. And, if that doesn't do the trick, then you get a new starter. 😄 Hope that helps... good luck!
Great video and great idea, I didn't know about heat soak but was aware of vapor lock. I have seen the mini torque starters advertised before but never read up on the advantage of them just suspected that they were for higher compression motors. 👍
Thanks John! Yeah, the mini torque starters certainly give some reassurance when you really NEED your car to start. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
I have a 93 Silverado with a factory heat shield and I have changed my starter no less than 8 times. I have done a complete starter wrap, a separate heatshield rap. I have even wrapped my heat shield and nothing seems to stop heat soak. I have to change the starter every 8 months regardless
Wow, Seth... sorry to hear that. Are there any other starter manufacturers that are compatible? Maybe bump up your wire size, if you can? If you figure out the solution, please let us know.
Obviously heat isn’t the problem. Also, heat wraps will trap the heat from the solenoid itself and not be able to cool. Buy an EZ shield, but before that you should diagnose the problem.
Good video, although I don't subscribe to firing the parts cannon unnecessarily. Yes these mini starters are in fashion now, but just tossing your old starter is ridiculous. I bet you could have fixed it for one tenth of what your new starter cost. New brushes & springs, possibly a solenoid. Keep it stock, don't chop your inspection plate. Jury's still out on how durable the minis are, and I know 2 guys whose minis caused fires.
I don't necessarily like ditching parts, and/or getting rid of original equipment. BUT, the weight difference was shocking. Would love to learn more about why and how a mini starter started a fire. Definitely don't want that. Sounds like a possible wiring issue. Anyway, I appreciate the honest comment, thanks!
@@FastMonty One fire on a stock Triumph TR6, one on a '69 Camaro 327. Both competent home mechanics.
Really interesting... I've never heard of a starter catching on fire. It's always been the wire connections on the starter itself. I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for that. Thanks!@@ercost60
I have the problem on a BB Chevy….WITH a new mini starter. Bang on it and it will go.
Ohhh, that's no bueno... how old is that starter? Maybe wrap it with DEI wrap?
Working on a 70 gto. Would like to know if there are any videos on how u applied Por-15 to your frame and if u top coated with anything.
Good question... I used a foam paint brush, and did NOT top coat it. Then I learned you can spray POR -15. Check out my video on that... ua-cam.com/video/upIvwU-claw/v-deo.html Keep at it, and can't wait to see your final result!
65 vette. Just installed mini starter which is lacking R terminal for yellow wire. I have HEI kit and forums say I don't need the yellow. Went to hook battery up and had sparks at starter. Am wondering if I need this high torque starter bypass wire to replace yellow wire which would also attach to S post on mini starter.
Brother Mark, sorry for your crazy situation... I too have an HEI distributor, AND a one wire alternator. I haven't looked in a while, but I'm pretty sure I have three wires going to my starter... the alternator, the ignition wire, and the battery. Sorry I'm not an expert on your set up and colors, but please do post your solution. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
@@FastMonty ok. I have a stock distributor with an HEI module. My car also runs a ceramic ballast before the coil which continues from the positive post to the “r” post on stock starter. The new mini torque has only a “s” post. I had to buy an American Autowire Starter Bypass Wires , part 50097, and run it from the coil to the “s” post on the new starter, replacing the old yellow wire. So now both the purple and new yellow go to “s” on new starter. Thanks to Dave Wilbur at American Autowire for tech support. Heat soak solved.
@@markb7340 awesome! I'm glad you got it fixed, and thanks for documenting the solution. Enjoy it!
I see they offer two different versions, on a 67 goat would a 1.4hp do the trick or is the 1.9 a wiser choice. Motor is mostly stock. Thanks!
Good question... in my opinion, bigger is better. :) After all, you do have a big block. ha, ha... have fun!
Did you ever end up having any problems with too big of the gap to the flywheel? I have the same motor and I just got this starter. I got about the same .180 gap. If it worked for you I’ll just try it out
Good question Craig... No, I've had no issues since this install. And, no response from IMI either, so there's that. LOL
Not sure if you figured it out yet but it is possible to put shims on onl one side (the outside bolt where your solenoid would be) to actually close that gap distance between flex plate or flywheel. But great video thanks!
Best I could tell, if I shim anything on the other side of the mounting block, the starter moves farther away, not closer. That said, you did remind me to reach out to IMI. So, I just did that... we'll see if they respond with a remedy. I'll let you know. Thanks for the comment!
Your vids is one of the best , thanks a bunch
Thanks!
this happened to me many times parking on hills etc, I finally got a super torque starter
Yeah, frustrating when it happens... good to hear you upgraded! Thanks for the comment!
Hello, I have a 1970 GTO Judge frame off rotisserie. Will the starter you have in the link work with a stock 400 with manifolds and a Muncie 4-speed transmission? I bought an aftermarket mini starter from Summit and it did not work because the clutch Fork was in the way. I have to leave the car running while I fill it up with gas because I'm afraid to turn it off.
Brother Douglas, I feel your pain. My opinion is that it "should work" because you can choose the mounting position with the different mounting holes of the starter to the mount. If you're still not sure, I'd ask Butler Performance, who sells the IMI starter. Hope that helps! (I have a hydraulic clutch now, so I don't know if the manual push rod gets in the way) Thanks for the comment! ... let us know how it goes.
I have a 2004 gto that starts weird and weak when hot. Otherwise starts fine. Does this same thing apply
Yeah, that's exactly what's happening... since your car is "relatively new", I'd buy a new starter, and see if you can wrap it with one of the DEI heat wraps I mentioned. That'll buy you more life, of that starter. (Check your wire location too, as they may be in need of heat protection) Have fun!
same problem on my HSV LS2 - partially resolved by improving connections on battery, but the problem still persists when stuck in heavy traffic and not going fast enough for the air to cool it.
Great observation about traffic, and air flow... I hope that wrapping it helps. Let us know, and thanks for sharing!
@@FastMonty no worries - Ive seen a few ideas on youtube about making your own from foil and fibreglass both of which I have, so will try that, only issue is how to mount it.... high temperatures mean adhesive may not be a good idea - maybe some wire or something
@@owendoe4847 Nice! Love it when someone gets creative... DEI Engineering has wraps secured by velcro, if all else fails. :)
@@FastMonty hmm thats a good idea... velcro - however something needs to stick to the velcro haha
@@owendoe4847 Ha! Have you looked one up? check this out... www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010384
I just got this starter for my 400, I never replaced a starter. What does the pigtail go to? A starter button?
Congrats! That pig tail goes to your ignition switch. It's typically a purple wire. Let us know how it goes!
Does this really work? My Blazer chevy 350 has this issue..Are you running stock headers?
LOL, yes... and no, I have long tube headers, so the heat is worse. Make sure you check all of your wire fittings, sometimes with age the terminals get loose or corroded. Let us know how it works out.
@@FastMonty thanks!
@@FastMonty i just bought one…Hopefully this helps…I installed the heatshield but it didnt work…it still gets hot…it seems like it got worse with the heat shield actually..i have to wait more then 10 minutes for it to start now..lets see if this mini torque starter does the trick…
Its also a brand new ac delco starter on a rebuilt chevy 350..it could be the connections but i went ahead and ordered the mini.
@@armygreenfj3924 That is strange... yeah, when you get the new starter, check all those wire connectors. See ya!
Would this happen to a 2007 Saturn Aura
It "could" but more than likely the starter and/or battery are going bad. Good luck!
I have same problem on my 70 gto with butler 461, still running 12 heads with high compression. Anyways noticed imi makes a 1.9 hp starter also. Do you think that is overkill on starter size ?
In your case, yeah, I'd get the larger starter for your high compression. FYI, my engine is around 9.5 to 1 compression and doing fine with the current starter. Hope it helps, and thanks for the comment!
Experiencing this with my Camaro right now.
That sucks. Check all your wire connectors too, sometimes they loosen up with a bunch of heat cycles. Let us know how you end up fixing it!
I was left at the pump today in my 67 Camaro, I knew what it was right away, luckily two guys pushed me into a parking spot, it took a long time to cool down.
Mannnn, I know the feeling. Hope you fix it so it doesn't happen again. Thanks for sharing!@@oxyfee6486
Can this cause stalling while driving
Can an overheated starter cause a stall? No, I don't think so. BUT, a heat soaked carburetor could do exactly that. The fuel inside the bowls gets too hot, and vaporizes before entering the airflow, causing Vapor Lock. OR, your fuel pump could be over heating. But, it's not the starter. Good luck!
Would this option work with my Pontiac G8?
I honestly don't know... BUT, if the symptoms match what I showed, you're having the same problem. (If your starter is over 10 years old, get a new one) If not, first off, check all of your cable connections for oxidation, etc... if that doesn't help, try wrapping the starter with DEI starter wrap... it's around $25 from Summit. Let us know what works! Thanks for the comment.
Okay I solved mine. Go back to basics. Factory they worked fine. My dually 454 gets super hot in Arizona. There’s a wire that goes from starter to coil?? It goes up there somewhere. You need to wrap that wire with heat shield wrapand use black tape. You have a nick or exposed wire causing heat to cause wire to stop carrying a current. I did this 5 years ago and I’ve never had another heat soak problem
Agreed... always good to check the wiring, and connections, cuz they get old too. Thanks for the report out of what worked for you. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
While cranking, the voltage going to the coil can drop below what the coil needs to run. The wire that runs from the starter to the coil, (usually marked "R") provides a maximum amount of voltage to the coil while cranking.
@@joeasbury974 Thanks Joe!
Very right my friend rebuilding a crown Vic same thing happen im a wrap the new starter
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!
How is it that heat soak dosent seem to affect brand new cars?
New cars have newer technology preventing heat soak. Thanks.
nice work
Thanks!
Awesome video. My 65 c10 takes 10 minutes to restart after long drives over 1 hour. The weird thing is that it doesnt even try to crank and even radiator fan does not turn on. Head lights do turn on. Ive heard the sound of starter heat soak sound but mine is no sound at all. Any suggestions?
If the battery is in the engine compartment, it might be getting too hot. Also check all wiring and connectors. Maybe a ground connector needs replacing? Let me know what you find out.
You were correct. I replaced battery terminal and that was the issue. I appreciate your input. I just subscribed to your channel. You da man
@@nursecuenca Saaaweeet! I got lucky. Ha, ha... Glad I could help. Welcome to the FMG family. See ya!
I have had the same issue and #2 there's your problem Optima batteries those batteries are JUNK and not like they use to be... i have found that commercial group 31 batteries from napa are far superior to car batteries, commercial batteries have alot more CCA and are built better the down fall is there size so I put mine in the trunk and used 1/0 battery cables now i how no problem starting my 514BBF on the hottest day, doesn't matter if i went in the store for a few minutes as you described but also you might want to check your timing?
Thanks, will look into a different battery when the time comes. Thanks for the comment!
Just clean batter and wires end with a wire brush.
Yeah, that helps, but not always the reason heat soak issues happen. Thanks!
Dude let me start by saying very good Diagnostic skills.. You’re competent
Level is on point.. second I’m having the very same issues on a 2006 Yzf-R1
Motorcyle that my Mechanic is Currently Trying to resolve My situation
was a little different from yours as in my case it may be that the starter
brushes were on there way out and Starter itself was leaking fluid also,
the battery was on its way out both were replaced and tested but then
the starting Solenoid didn’t pass a Continuity test and that two had to be replaced
I’m waiting on the outcome to be Determined?
I’m keeping my fingers crossed thank you for your Informative
post and keep up the good work!!
Thanks Brother... good to see my old school muscle diagnostics apply to more modern engines, including sport bikes. Yeah, when it comes down to it, electronics and high heat just don't work well together, long term. :) Thanks again for the comment! Good luck with your troubleshooting too...
Think I may be dealing with this on my jet ski
Yeah, It can happen with anything electronic, next to something hot. Good luck!
@@FastMonty yeah starter is against the block under the intake manifold. Not sure why it's happening though since ski was designed to run like this with no heat shield and it has for the last 400+ houra
@@liveandletlive2894 Keep in mind, it could also be the wiring/connectors.
@@FastMonty yeah I checked em all didn't see any corrosion. Any way to test the cables?
@@FastMonty next time it's out I'll also get temp readings all over it. They don't have temp gauges so no clue if this year its running hotter than normal
But yes if you are going to put a battery in the trunk it should be a sealed type, due to off gassing. Like the optima spiral wound but I would go with a AGM sealed flat plate design, as I don't have a high amperage tester. Like I had In the shops, If anyone has done starting amperage testing lately, on the different types of batteries please comment?
Agreed. I'd love to know more about HOT battery amperage too! Thanks!
@@FastMonty Ya, back in the day 20-30 years ago, even with the same CCA rating the flat plate batteries would produce 50-100 amp more at the starter, during 15-30 seconds of starter turning. This is due to the CCA being based upon amperage over a minute or two, CCA is rated differently than what actually works with a high compression large motor. Even worse if it's rated under deep cycle rating.
And with any reasonably set up carb or FI system should start in a few seconds, so it dose not matter that the battery can crank at 50-100 amp less for two to three times as long. They don't start the engine!
@@FastMonty When I first saw your optima battery, i was surprised that you weren't having problems.
Oh, I didn't say, but all engines like yours require a lot more cranking power when HOT than cold. So that is when your starting system actually gets tested.
Thanks. This is what’s happening to my Audi A8. Starts fine when cold. Just when hot it really turns slowly. Will replacing the starter fix the problem?
Thanks Mac... yeah, with modern cars, it typically means the starter is just getting old. Replacing it should fix it. (Keep in mind, I'm not an Audi expert, but chances are high that's the problem) Thanks again, and good luck!
What did you find out about the bendix gear clearance? Also where did you get your steering wheel ? I would like to get that starter.
Good question Bill... I have not had a chance to reach out about the excessive gear clearance. I'm pretty sure I got my steering wheel from OPGI, but that was like 8 years ago??? Yeah, that starter is awesome!
Thanks for this video - I just bought the IMI-108N to put in my '65 GTO - it will be here Friday. Did you ever get any feedback about your gear clearance issue? Now that you've had the starter for a while, what say you, like it? Love your vids!
You're welcome... No, I never got any feedback from IMI. That said, I haven't had any issues with it. I will be adding a HEI heat wrap eventually, just in case. :) Enjoy it, and thanks for being a part of the channel!
I had to send my IMI back to Cali for machining. Still wiped out the manual trans flywheel on my 65 GTO
@@vernjohnson2891 Sorry to hear you had that problem. I've had mine in for a while and it seems to operate fine and doesn't make any suspicious noises. I did spend a fair amount of time during the install trying to verify clearance between the starter gear and my (manual trans) flywheel gear when they were engaged - and that was not a simple task. Ultimately I trusted the measurements I was getting and installed without any shim(s). So far so good. Hope you got your situation straightened out in the end.
Buenísimo gracias
Da Nada. :)
These one size fits all "upgrades" are a bad idea. Proper starter engagement is crucial to ring and pinion life. All that mucking about with shims and "looks good enough"... ain't good enough! Half the guys doing this " upgrade" will mess up and destroy something now or later. Fix the stock starter.
Agreed. IF and ONLY if, you have an original starter. Otherwise the re-pops are a giant paper weight. You just reminded me to follow up with IMI for the fitment issue I had... thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/2FZA8dsG7Ls/v-deo.html SUMMIT says that in "proper installation" of these mini starters that the pinion will not extend to fully engage the ring gear, and "not to worry about it". That's the biggest bunch of BS in recent memory, certainly leading to improper and accelerated ring gear wear. You'll be left holding the bag with a broken ring gear in a year or two. A new pressure plate will cost $300-600 plus installation. Installing a cheap mini starter is false economy, leave that for the flippers.
Hahaha sounds exactly like the issue I’m having right now even up to the ups story it happened to me the same way. Only thing is my truck is newer 2007 ram 2500. The starter also manages to turn over the engine but it does kinda sound like it’s struggling, but not all that much. I let the engine cool down for about 30-45mins and it starts. It also fires up easily when I put in starter fluid. I try to use the starter fluid as little as possible. Usually letting it cool instead of using it, but if I’m in a pinch I’ll use it. I’m just trying to find the issue. Any insight lmk thx.
Great question Raine! I'm assuming it's the original starter... if so, it's probably on it's last legs. (sorry, not what you wanted to hear) Where the internal wiring is fatiguing due to age, etc... If you don't want to go jump out and buy a new starter to test, maybe try a starter heat wrap? Like this... www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-350118-1 Let me know what fixes it! (I'm no expert on newer cars. :))
Great video thank's 👍
Thanks Robert!
Does it matter what type of car you have old or new? I have a 95 subbie have that problem
Good question, Joe. No, it doesn't matter the age. In your case, you would just need a new starter, but try and wrap it with some sort of heat shield, so it'll last longer. Hope that helps!
My car has heat soak for the last 4 years, I been ignoring it.. now it's getting embarrassing and annoying when I restart it after engine is warm/hot.. wouldn't the starter have clocked out by now after 4 years if that's the problem?
Yeah, could be time for a new starter. Electronics and heat don't mix very well... you probably have better starter options out there, and you could wrap the new one. Good luck!
I bet you have a Optima yellow top...
Actually, I do... care to expand on your comment?
Only because you emphasized it like 4 times...and one time it was I HAVE A OPTIMA YELLOW TOP BATTERY.. so.....lol
@Mr Liberty lol. I thought you were saying that's why I was having issues. It's been a while since I've filmed this. Thanks.
Heat soak is what affects junk starters. Those single sheer "High torque" mini starters are hot garbage. I'd definitely look into possibly getting a Small/Big chevy OEM high torque to mount up. I understand you have a pontiac, but GM likes to reuse stock. so maybe it's not that hard to swap or find a part that will work. last car I worked on with a starting issue was a 468 BBC Chevy in a 69 camaro. He had an MSD, Tilton, power master and some other starter in it that looked just like that.. They all crapped the bed only a few weeks after installing them. They basically sounded like the battery was dead all the time. No matter what battery you put in it, or jumper cables you used, it was a VERY Lazy crank. We threw his $300+ starter in the trash and put a 99 suburban OEM high torque starter in, and it legit almost cranked as fast as the thing idles.. It's been a couple years now and it STILL starts like new. Don't waste your money on that junk. LOL
Good point, junk is junk. My new starter has been working great... interesting idea about using a more modern Suburban starter. thanks!
Your videos are great. I am doing a engine rebuild on my 69 GTO, so your videos fit in with everything I am doing. Do you have the model number for the mini starter and where you purchased it?
Great to hear! Yeah, I typically leave all part numbers and links in the description.. .but, here it is again, have fun! butlerperformance.com/i-24453304-imi-pontiac-mini-starter-w-1-4-kw-motor-1964-later-block-mount-imi-108n.html?ref=search%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fbutlerperformance.com%2Fsearch.html%3Fq%3Dimi
Is it also related to heat soak if the engine cranks fine once there are jump leads hooked on?
I have a 76 Lincoln, and it starts perfectly fine when cold. The battery is also quite new and appears to be in good shape. It does however show the exact same issue as shown here. Once the engine is hot, it barely cranks over. That is until I hook up a jump starter or jump leads from another car. Then it fires up just fine again.
I've since taken the engine out for a different fix, and I found out that the ground wire from the block to the firewall looks a bit burned, so I am suspecting that this is the culprit. Could it only be that, or is there definitely a heat soak going on as well?
Btw, it also has this unique thing where the starter makes a whoosh noise right after starting the engine, as if something in it still spins freely after letting go of the ignition.
Great comment. To your point heat also affects the wiring, so I'd you have a questionable ground strap it will absolutely affect EVERYTHING, including your ignition system. Great comment!
@@FastMonty Thanks for your response! Perhaps that could also explain why I sometimes hear the engine revolutions through the radio speakers.
@@JohnSmith-wj2wd Yeah, that's one of the signs... let us know what ends up fixing it. Thanks!
@@FastMonty I put the engine back together and into the car. I've added two brand new and thicker ground wires to the block, and made sure to sand the contact surfaces to bare metal before they were attached.
The whoosh sound is no longer there when the engine fires up, so that definitely seems related. But the heat soak still persists in the exact same way. If the engine is even a little bit warm after running less than 5 minutes, the starter already has issues cranking it and the thick red cable to the solenoid turns really hot. I'll have to wait until the engine is dead cold again. Hooking up a jump starter makes it go quicker again, but still doesn't feel like there's much force behind it.
Not sure if it's either the starter or battery causing it, since the engine cranks over real quick when it's freezing cold outside. But I'm tempted to replace both either way for good measure.
How big is the Hot red wire? How new is the starter? @@JohnSmith-wj2wd
Thanks brother your correct
Welcome!
Would heat soak be consistent with a LOW cranking voltage? I would have expected the increase in resistance in the starter coils to draw less current, and as a result, place less load on the battery, which in turn would cause a higher than normal cranking voltage. However, I seem to have the opposite - I do think I have a heat soak issue (perhaps because the heat shield is missing!), but my cranking voltage is low. (circa 8.5V near the battery). Perhaps the fact that the motor spins very slowly does increase the load on the battery, despite the increase in coil resistance?
Good question... In my opinion, the symptoms of "low cranking voltage" and "heat soak" are almost identical. The big difference with heat soak is when the engine is cold, the starter works just fine. But, when warm, it has difficulty. If you're having the same symptoms when cold, you need a new starter, or a new battery, or both. Naturally, electronics don't last forever, especially when they have to go through dramatic changes of temperature... I hope that helps?
@@FastMonty it does indeed start ok when cold. Battery & starter motor are brand new, but I discovered after replacing these that there is supposed to be a heat shield - for some reason mine is missing. (car is the Aussie Holden Caprice, which has an LS3 V8). Another issue is that the starter is aftermarket. So, next step is to put a genuine starter in, and fit the heat shield. I won't overthink the cranking voltage issue.
@@gregsullivan7408 ahhh, yeah. sounds like a good plan. Have fun!
Motor or engine, which one are we talking about ?
Not sure what you're asking me here?
I put one of those wraps on my starter of my Chevy 350,,,,still won't start hot,wait until heat is 160° or below, then it start...
Why....HELP !
Amy
Thanks Amy... how old is the starter? It sounds like it might be on it's last legs... If you're going to get a new one, I highly recommend a mini-torque. Let me know.
@@FastMonty it's brand new starter,,just put in this Saturday May 15th,,,I went out to the garage this morning, I turned the key to start it,and I get nothing,no sound,it's dead cold, it has a brand new battery brand new ignition switch, brand new HEI distributor finally tuned, brand new voltage regulator,.... would the neutral safety switch have anything to do with it because I know it's tied into the solenoid ?
@@The_Hollywood_Mission Ohhh, noooo! That's frustrating. Is the battery dead? If not, yeah, you have to check the additional circuits. If the neutral switch is not wired correctly it would indeed not allow anything to happen. Back to the heat soak issue for a new starter... makes sure you check the grounding cable on the block, if it's corroded or loose, it may not allow current to flow. Keep me posted.
96 INCH Lbs!! Obviously a typo on their part.
Ha! Great point. Or, is it 8 ft. lbs ?... that doesn't make sense either. LOL They still haven't got back to me on the engagement distance that I was measuring either. But, the starter is still working like a champ. Thanks!
@@FastMonty Cool!! I think GM typically sticks to 12 ft-lbs on most medium sized bolts and 6-10 on your small ones like 8-10 mm head heat shield bolts. I could be wrong, it's been about 12 years since I worked at the engine plant. If I'm right, then 8 ft-lbs doesn't seem so crazy I guess?
@@14yeartwitch14 Good point, my guess would also be 12 to 15 ft lbs. So, 8 is not so crazy. Thanks!