Kubota V2403 Injection Pump Timing Adjustment [Diesel RHD TJ Wrangler - 61]
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- In this video I remove the injection pump on my Kubota V2403 to adjust the timing on the engine for better for on and off road performance! As usual, I end up taking more stuff apart than I needed to but any chance you get to learn something new without breaking anything is a good day!
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Thank you so much to KubotaSwappers for all of his help, so please check out his site at:
www.KubotaSwappers.com
Also special thanks to JB Custom Fabrications for all of his help, so please check out his site at:
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Little by little you’re coming along. Keep up with the great videos!
Will do pj Kentucky! Thank you so much!
Hi great video, nice Jeep, do you know if Kubota swappers have gone offline, I cant acces their website.
Thank you and happy Jeping.
Yeah I think he closed shop, last I heard he was having problems sourcing materials after the pandemic. I still have my complete setup with the engine, turbo, accessory mount, and it's actually bolted to an AX-15 at the moment for some prototyping I did at one point if you are looking for that setup.
The spacer (shim) between the injection pump and the housing below comes in varying thicknesses and is used to adjust the injection timing.
A thinner shim shifts the injection pump downward and closer to the rotating cams below. The cams therefore contact the injection pump pistons sooner thus "advancing" the timing.
Installing a thicker shim has the opposite effect: it moves the injection pump higher and away from the rotating cams below. The cams therefore contact the injector pump pistons later thus "retarding" the timing. There are timing marks on the flywheel that are used to determine the correct timing (just like on gasoline engines ) .
Great information here on how the timing works for a Kubota!
That little hat you pull off at 2:50 is just a cover for optional PTO that runs off the end of the Injection cam. On many of these Kubota engines they run a small hydraulic pump off of it.
I’m going to do this as well but I think I’m going to use some sealant when reinstalling the injection pump. Is your leaking any oil or did it seal tight?
Mine never leaked any oil and sealed tight, I was constantly around the injection pump area adjusting the fuel screws for the pump.
I came here to ask the same question. Kinda crazy that it's not leaking with no RTV.
@@nicholaspappas101 I ended up using anaerobic sealant on mine just to be safe. Nice tight seal
@@RaztechPowersports I'm thinking of getting my pump milled so I can get right up to the 11btdc mark.
@@nicholaspappas101 I was considering it too but I had good results with just pulling the shims
i just got through doing the same mod to my kubota l2501 tractor with the d1703 engine. i had 2 shims on my pump, x1 .02 and x1 .025. removed the .025 for about ~3.5 advance in timing. i was also able to open the fuel up (1/4 turn out) by cutting the guard off the fuel limiting screw. the d1703 (3 cylinder) is a detuned 37 hp engine choked down to 25 hp to meet tier 4 specs. i think with both mods im around ~32 hp and ~ 25 hp for the pto.
the main reason i bought the tractor... no DPF and no DEF. this is my 3rd kubota, imho probably the best small diesel engines on earth!
btw, the part you couldn't remember its name, is called the Hi-idling Body.
enjoyed the vid, good luck with your kubota!
That's a great swap i will like to see one of those on a small truck
Hey, I had someone swap out my gas engine on my welding machine to a Kubota v2203 and am at a learning curve when it comes to working on diesel as opposed to gasoline. Is there anywhere you can point me to other than a class at my local community collage to learn how to work on this engine when needed?
Looks like you got your wrist finally calibrated for torquing. Good job makes things go alot faster. Got to redo mine once I get back to swinging wrenches.
Yeah I'm getting there, on smaller fasteners and bolts I'm pretty confident on my calibrated wrist torque wrench!
This would have been super helpful like two days ago when I did my 2203. I swapped governor springs as well, most of these engines appear to be rated at 1800rpm max. I used a spring from McMaster that is dimensionally the same other than being .069 wire instead of .051.
Hey Joseph how did that spring affect the maximum RPM of you V2203?
I haven’t gotten to run it yet to get a concrete number, the Jeep is still in a million pieces. I’m thinking it should top out at 3000rpm. Not that I’ll rev it that high, but it’ll be nice to have room for passing power.
FTE runs a .061 spring in his Sportrac and the spring stretched out to the point where max rpm is only 2500 now. Not bad, but it limits boost. I’m hoping the thicker spring will hold up better.
Joseph Cinko did you ever get it running and how did this governer spring help?
@@joefive5466 When they put these engines in the skid loaders and other hydro driven machines their HP rating is around 2700-2800rpm and they'll run wide open like that all day and have zero problems with it. I doubt 3000 will give you any trouble, especially in brief acceleration events.
Can you show how to put one together
Hey Vern, at this time I don't have plans on assembling one because of the specialized tools & skills required to build one. I might do one some day in the distant future if I can get the training on how to do it, but that is not something I would try tackling right now!
I know this is a late reply, I apologize. I've got a kubota V1903 (a little smaller than the v2403 but still a 4 cylinder). It's part of an Onan marine 15kw genset I saved from the local scrap yard 2 years ago. I brought it home and it fired right up and ran like a dream with a new lift pump. Fast forward to today, I fired it up after sitting for 8 months or so, it ran great for about a minute, then the cylinder closest to the water pump drops off. I'm certain it's a fuel issue, but i'm new to diesels and have no idea where to start. I'm almost certain it's not a compression issue, last time I started it, it was 20 degrees out and it lit right off without glow plugs. I tried using the bleeder screw on the injection pump as well as cracking the line loose at the injector while it's running but nothing works. I can squirt some lube into the intake tube for a split second and it evens out before dropping off again.
Can you post a video? That would help. I almost wonder if that injector went bad.
@@RustyAutoholicGuy I uploaded a video here: ua-cam.com/video/uz5od9l8x6M/v-deo.html
I know the set up is janky, but it's temporary until I get an enclosure built for it. It seems like it has pressure at the injector, but it doesn't look like a whole lot. Then again, I don't have the experience to know what i'm looking at lol. First line I broke loose in the vid is a known good cylinder, the second one is the one that isn't firing. All of the clattering noise is from the electrical box flopping around. Thanks!
How does the pump come off? I have all the bolts out and the rack will not move. It’s in a bind. What am I missing?
Hi sir. Whats the performance after removing the shims
More horsepower and torque, though I never measured it, but the throttle felt more like a normal car throttle than an industrial throttle. Before the change, if you want MAX RPM you would have to give it 100% throttle, where as in a car if there is no load, 25% will still REV the engine to maximum.
@@RustyAutoholicGuy so u mean sir after removing the shims the performance is better. Did it revs 100%
@@kubotad if your motor is stock. (non turboed) then advance the timing, if its turboed retard the timing, (more boost, hp, tq)
Hello. I have to take the pump our of a v2203e. Looks similar. Was there any springs you had to disconnect? Mine is in a Gehl 4625 skidloader. That and what position does the rod need to be in to lift assembly out?
Thanks
I don't remember removing there being any springs. What rod are you talking about?
@@RustyAutoholicGuy I got it out. Shutoff sliding rod wouldn't move. The machine was left sitting in a shed for quite a few years. According to injector repair guys the pumps & injectors have been doing this quite regularly now on stuff that isn't run regularly or seasonal use so be sure to run them every so often.
Springs: After deciphering through it all the spring was the one that pushes the rod that you took out in the video. There were some on the backside that I realized do not get touched.
I'm thinking the V2203 is your engine less the turbo.
Best regards and thanks for posting.
Btw I was able to free up & clean injectors with the silver diesel 911 product. It is an injector cleanor and worked great.
its pretty sweet that all you had to do was remove a couple shims
Yeah it was SO much easier than I was thinking it was going to be and it's really helped with turning the 235/85r16 tires over as well!
Rusty Autoholic Guy I have a v2203. I am wanting to do the same thing. Should I? Or are these pumps different animals
How many degrees doe you have when you remove all the shims
Olá amigo meu motor kubota não pega de jeito nenhum já coloquei as engrenagem tudo no ponto fiz de tudo mais ele não pega só gira gira ameaça que vai pega mais não pega oque poderia ser
Hi bro i we have TL 90 INJECTOR PUMP FOR TOWER MACHINE WE OPEN AND FIXED THEN AFTER FIXING ITS PINKING SOUND AS WELL AS WHITE SMOKE
Sorry I don't know what a TL 90 is
All machines vary, in some cases removing the shims may cause a timing advance that causes negative results such as white smoke and pinging sounds. This is the fuel being injected TOO SOON. Put one shim back in and see if it clears up. Also, you may not have needed to adjust the timing at all to begin with. The original issue you were chasing may have been something else entirely and you only compounded the problem. The removal of shims is typically a performance mod done by ppl wanting power but any certified diesel tech will tell you this is not proper method for timing. A spill test is the only proper way and you can find videos online showing how it’s done.
Sooooo... when is she going on a Dyno? ;)
When I get her finished, in the middle a transmission swap at the moment, going from a AW4 to a 6r80.
HOW TO ADJUST FIP TIMING IS NOT SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO? APART FROM REFITTING OF HP LINES BEEN RECORDED, REQUESTED TO SHOW DETAILED FITMENT OF SAME. I'm INTERESTED TO LEARN MORE ABOUT PARTICULARLY KUBOTA V2403 DIESEL ENGINE.
Yes the injection pump timing is shown in this video, you remove the shims from the bottom of the injection pump which is how you adjust the timing on the Kubota V2403.
Sir, it Is the only method of fuel injection adjustment for retard/advance the timing, I was looking for the drive gear timing fitment, If possible please share the video thanks!
@@RustyAutoholicGuy The timing procedure is not shown in this video. This shows how to advance the timing of the pump.
Why is there a kubota in your eng bay
This is a great comment that I just keep forgetting to answer. Essentially at the time before I pulled this motor and went for a TDI, I wanted a cheap mechanical turbo diesel to power my TJ Wrangler. It doesn't require an computers, the wiring is simple and it made the power and torque I was looking for while at the same time weighing significantly less than the stock 4.0l engine.
@@RustyAutoholicGuy ahhhh,... been waiting for that answer.
COOL!
How was the performance after advancing sir vs. The stock timing?
How did it help out?
Hey WARD5KUSTOMZ sorry for the late reply was on vacation last week. Advancing the timing gave the Kubota more horsepower and torque. I've never put it on a dyno so I can't tell you how much but it was significantly easier to drive around the yard on stock boost and fueling settings once I changed the timing!