I've become an enthusiast and small collector of the true Yashica and I found your video very informative and interesting since there's not much quality content about this brand.
Very intresting video with precise and clear informations ! A lot of practical advice for a better use of the camera ! THX for sharing your know-how with us. Greetz from Roger, Antwerp, little Belgium. (Yashica Electro 35 GT).
I already bought a GS based on other information and later found your video. This is an excellent overview for anyone considering this camera. You’re critique on the nuances of the camera are spot on. I’m really looking to shooting this camera after a clean up the viewfinder glass.
Hauled an old hand-me-down GTN out of the closet today and dusted it off. Very different from my DSLR. This video was a great primer to help get me aquatinted with a rediscovered gem.
The lack of the exposure lock or compensation is the biggest weakness. Using the ISO dial instead of that is a great idea. BTW there is a battery that fits in without the need of an adapter. I don't know the model of the battery, but if anyone is interested, there is a channel called Japan Vintage Camera or something like that. He talks about it and he put a link for buying the battery under the youtube review.
Thanks for the video! I picked up a GSN at a yard sale for $2. Planning to take it on a trip to Chesapeake Bay soon, just need to figure out the battery situation! Regarding the long travel of the shutter button, I seem to have found a way to lock the shutter button in a lower configuration but still be able to operate the shutter. I am not sure if it is a designed setting or if my camera is broken in some way. I can also lock it to where it does not go down at all, which it is supposed to do, I believe.
My version of this camera arrived from Japan yesterday and it's super clean and came with the auxiliary kit of tele & wide angle adapters & with the little hot shoe viewfinder. My version was made in Japan, rather than Hong Kong like most of the ones I've seen. I'm looking forward to trying this camera out and comparing it to the Canonet TL17 GIII. From what I've seen, this camera has an excellent exposure metering system, which is helped by the stepless shutter system. The lens is very sharp & fast and has excellent contrast. Now to get my battery hack set up and off to take some pictures. Good video. You mentioned that you were going to do a video of using the camera and showing some images take with the camera. I'm looking forward to that.
Some battery shops sell alkaline batteries with the same dimensions of the old Mercury batteries. Won't have to modify/stack batteries in the compartment! Picked one up for $13 at my local Batteries Plus.
I have a GT that has the pad of death issue, but it still does shoot at 1/500th. I just use my light meter cell phone app and adjust the aperture accordingly. It still takes great pics! Love that chair btw, never saw one with one armrest and a coffee table for the other!
This is a really efficient and informative video- if you can’t get the battery conversion sorted (I’ve never been able to and it may be faulty wiring but anyway), it’ll still shoot just fine. You do the metering and the camera shoots at 1/500 automatically. I think you mentioned this but just adding to the Yashica Electro love- These are amazing little cameras and the lens will constantly provide clear and crisp shots.
I'm pretty sure that adjusting the film speed dial will work exactly like an exposure comp dial. Dial towards a slower film speed and you will get (in 1/3 stop increments) a brighter exposure, and turn towards higher numbers and you'll darken the exposure. I'm picking mine up tomorrow and I'll give this a try to make sure.
I'm the kind of person that would try that for a shot or two and then forget to set it back to normal afterwards! You are correct that you can trick the camera into rendering a scene lighter or darker by switching the ISO on the fly. For most films there is an acceptable range of flexibility, but the ISO selection only spans ~5 and 1/2 stops so you don't have a lot of wiggle room for films with ISO near the extremes.
Hey, do you know how I can test my meter? I am using 4 x 1.55v silver oxide batteries in a sort of adapter but other then when the lighting is obviously under or wayyyy over, I feel like the camera is metering wrong for the more subtle lighting scenarios. Any ideas what could be wrong?
I had the new Yashica TL Electro X in my Navy days 1971-75. I loved it. I took literally thousands of slides & prints with it and it never gave me any problems. Along with the great Kodak film, I took some great pictures.
I knew that the Yashica was not the 'Cadillac' of the 35mm cameras back then, a Leica would have been sweet.. but my needs...and especially my wallet...HA...dictated my getting the Yashica. I had heard about the Mamiya/Sekor but I do not remember exactly, 40+ years later...why I decided on the Yashica. The camera was fine for my needs and skill level; it's how I learned about F/stop & shutter speed & basic picture composition & all the basics. I enjoyed knowing that I could decide how I wanted a picture to look and achieve it. Of course, today I have a nice 35mm digital SLR and it's amazing. And now with photo editing software...wow...a dark-room on your computer..!!
Hey, nice and informative review. I love that cam, i own the Electro35 GS and it takes wonderful pictures, for the battery problem you can also get a cheap adapter for it on Amazon or ebay and use pretty cheap and available batterys then. Looking forward to your next Video when you show us your pictures with it😉📷
Did you get any test shots with your camera? I’m considering getting one, but I like my images to be sharp and when I look around at other people’s images they’re often quite soft. I don’t know if that’s the camera or the fact that the people buying them want something semi automatic that has a bit of a Diana or Lomo feel. I guess I don’t want to be frustrated by the tool and would love your thoughts.
To your Yashica Electro 35 rangefinder list you should add the Yashica MC, GX, GL, and MG-1 cameras; nevertheless, the GSN was probably the best known of the of the Electro 35 rangefinders.
Yashica has made quite a few cameras so I chose to focus on the line of cameras that had the 45mm f/1.7 lens, which is arguably the best fixed lens Yashica has produced. The other cameras you mentioned have either the 40mm lens or lenses that aren't as fast at f/2.8
@@TheScienceofPhotography I can understand that. The Electro 35 series was a great family of cameras. I also enjoy the accessories that went with them.
Leaf shutter does not necessarily guarantee sync to all speeds, it's just the good ones do (usually the ones with aperture blades at the same time working as shutter blades)They are still single or multiple blades that travel at a certain speed. If it does not travel fast enough then you can't have it sync at very fast speed. There are leaf shutter camera (for instance Ricoh GRD)that have different sync speed at different aperture: at smaller aperture it gives higher sync speed, since the shutter blade needs to cover a smaller opening.
You make an interesting point. I disagree somewhat about the good lenses being those that combine shutter blades and aperture blades. Most of the best classic lenses (Schneider, Rodenstock, Zeiss) have separate aperture and shutter blades. I do agree that the flash sync ability is limited by the mechanical speed required to cover the physical size of the lens opening which is why most historical leaf lenses (copal shutters, Hasselblad V series lenses) are "slow" often having maximum shutter speeds of 1/500 sec. Even the most modern high end leaf lenses max out at 1/1600. With the Ricoh GRD (one of my favorite cameras) you are correct, you are pushing the mechanical limit of the speed of the leaf blades. However, we are now in the realm of trying to sync at shutter speeds of 1/2000-1/4000. This is far beyond any normal range. Even so, the GRD has a built in Neutral Density Filter that compensates for this allowing fill flash at any shutter speed. For the Yashica, this problem is solved by the camera locking in the shutter speed at 1/30 in flash mode and letting the aperture dictate the exposure. Thank you for contributing to the conversation!
@@TheScienceofPhotography I'd like to add a comment to clarify flash synchro with a leaf shutter. Simple flash synch is the "X" setting and which in older cameras is 1/30th second. ( Older Focal plane shutters share this, too, although advances in shutter design allowed for higher synch speeds.) Getting back to leaf shutters, the X setting is used for the older type flash bulbs, and electronic flash. With bulbs, the shutter is synched at 1/30 to allow the bulb to burn to reach maximum output and the shutter is tripped at this point. This maximises the light from the bulb. In reality, because a bulb burns relatively slowly and takes a few milliseconds to reach peak power, it is fired before the shutter opens. The timing of this maximum output and the shutter firing is where we get the term "flash synch" from. Now because the duration of burn is quite long relative to shutter speed, leaf shutters can synch with a bulb up to their maximum speed, which is generally 1/500 sec. However, as this captures only a brief instant of the bulb's burn, flash power is significantly reduced. and depends upon the selected shutter speed. Now with strobes (electronic flash units) these fire the instant the circuit is completed and so can be fired at any shutter speed, even up to the 1/500 sec setting. The difference is, these flash units fire much faster than the shutter speed, so all their power output is captured whilst the shutter is open. So a photo taken using an electronic flash is not affected by shutter speed, EXCEPT where the ambient light is sufficiently bright to affect the background illumination. Experienced flash photographers use a technique known as flash synchro to balance the flash output with ambient light, including sunlight. Because of this, leaf shutters are far better for a wide variety of flash situations than a focal plane unit.
The vast majority of leaf shutters are conventional in that the aperture blades and shutter leaf blades are entirely independent. For these, please refer to my comment below. However, I am aware that some cameras combine the action of shutter speed and aperture setting to the shutter blades alone. I have no personal experience of this type of shutter, but I can understand why the "normal" application of flash synchronisation may not apply.
Great video once again! Thank you for hopefully showing curious about Yashica's Y35 backers a little history. Have you tried the Yashica Lynx? the all fully manual predecessor of the Electro 35?
Thank you! Stay tuned because there's a lot more to come. I have not tried the Lynx, but it's another great affordable option for people wanting to explore film photography.
No, it will not effect development if you use the ISO setting to correct exposure. Here is an example. You want to shoot a scene that is backlit like a portrait with a lot of light behind it. The camera thinks there is a lot of light so it will use a fast shutter speed. Even if you change the aperture, it will still use a shutter speed that thinks there is a lot of light. If you take the picture like this then the light behind the person will be exposed, but the person will be dark. To get the person correctly exposed you need to compensate by using a longer shutter speed to let more light in. You can do this by changing the ISO dial so the camera thinks the film is less sensitive and it will use a longer shutter speed. So if you are using 400 speed film and you want 2 stops of exposure compensation you set the ISO dial to 100. You still develop the film as 400 speed film, but that frame will have 2 extra stops of light. Hope that makes some sense. I plan on making more videos about exposure soon that will help with these kinds of topics.
oh no it totally make sense. Actually yeah, by giving my question few more though, can say that it's not the brightest. Now the only thing that still gives me some head scratch, and couldn't find online a proper complete answer (might have to search it in old books), is how ISO on camera affect the light sensitivity of the film, mechanically. Aperture and shutter speed are pretty obvious, same for ISO on digital, but can't grasp how it works with film cameras.
When it comes to film ISO is a property of the film and cannot be changed by the camera. If you want to "change" a film's sensitivity you can push or pull process after the fact during development. For example, if you take Ilford HP5 which is a 400 speed film you can push process it by metering and exposing as if it was ISO 1600 and then developing for a longer time in development. Ilford publishes times for different developers in order to push the film to higher ISO values. Never be afraid to ask questions, that what I and my channel are here to do, educate people who are interested in photography.
The ISO setting on a film camera is used to adjust the internal light meter. If the camera's meter says f/16 and 1/125 at ISO 100 when you change it to ISO 200 it will read something like f/22 at 1/125 or f/16 at 1/250
True, the GL and the GX came afterwards with the wider lens, but were only made for a few years. They did offer some improvements in metering over the 45mm lens models though. I chose to focus on the original series with the 45mm lens because they were the most commonly available.
The Lynx came out in 1960 and was a beloved camera. The first version of the Electro 35 came out in 1966 and the GSN model featured in this video began production in 1973. Thanks for stopping by, I hope it inspires you to continue shooting with your camera!
Thank you for your response, unfortunately my Lynx-1000 may not be film worthy anymore. But I still occasionally shoot film with my Minolta SRT-102 from time to time which was my last film camera before going digital. Great channel.
I am a proud owner of a Lynx 5000 and it is a slightly older model. In many ways the Electro is a Lynx with more electronics introduced. Decades later the Lynx and even earlier Ministers seem to be more reliable because they are all clockwork mechanics wheras the decades old electronics in newer cameras start to fail. Fun fact is Yashica also made a version of the Lynx with a 45 or 50mm F 1.4 lens which to this day is the fastest lens ever mounted on a fixed lens rangefinder.
Best technical explanation I have seen. I have a GSN and am sending it for CLA and pad of death repair. Going to take it to Florida next month.
I still have mine. It was my first 'adult' camera. I bought it in 1990 and it still works.
I've become an enthusiast and small collector of the true Yashica and I found your video very informative and interesting since there's not much quality content about this brand.
Very intresting video with precise and clear informations ! A lot of practical advice for a better use of the camera ! THX for sharing your know-how with us. Greetz from Roger, Antwerp, little Belgium. (Yashica Electro 35 GT).
Thank you! Stay tuned for more videos!
I already bought a GS based on other information and later found your video. This is an excellent overview for anyone considering this camera. You’re critique on the nuances of the camera are spot on. I’m really looking to shooting this camera after a clean up the viewfinder glass.
Hauled an old hand-me-down GTN out of the closet today and dusted it off. Very different from my DSLR. This video was a great primer to help get me aquatinted with a rediscovered gem.
It's a very user friendly and capable camera. Glad this video helped!
The lack of the exposure lock or compensation is the biggest weakness. Using the ISO dial instead of that is a great idea.
BTW there is a battery that fits in without the need of an adapter. I don't know the model of the battery, but if anyone is interested, there is a channel called Japan Vintage Camera or something like that. He talks about it and he put a link for buying the battery under the youtube review.
Thanks for the video! I picked up a GSN at a yard sale for $2. Planning to take it on a trip to Chesapeake Bay soon, just need to figure out the battery situation! Regarding the long travel of the shutter button, I seem to have found a way to lock the shutter button in a lower configuration but still be able to operate the shutter. I am not sure if it is a designed setting or if my camera is broken in some way. I can also lock it to where it does not go down at all, which it is supposed to do, I believe.
My version of this camera arrived from Japan yesterday and it's super clean and came with the auxiliary kit of tele & wide angle adapters &
with the little hot shoe viewfinder. My version was made in Japan, rather than Hong Kong like most of the ones I've seen. I'm looking forward to trying this camera out and comparing it to the Canonet TL17 GIII. From what I've seen, this camera has an excellent exposure metering system, which is helped by the stepless shutter system. The lens is very sharp & fast and has excellent contrast. Now to get my battery hack set up and off to take some pictures. Good video. You mentioned that you were going to do a video of using the camera and showing some images take with the camera. I'm looking forward to that.
So far, it is the absolutely best review of any Yashica Electro 35.... great job! Please keep it up!
Thank you very much! Will do!
Great video about a cool camera. Reminds me of a young Peter Bogdanovich
Some battery shops sell alkaline batteries with the same dimensions of the old Mercury batteries. Won't have to modify/stack batteries in the compartment! Picked one up for $13 at my local Batteries Plus.
Great video! Very informative! Thanks!
Nice to see you here, I really like your channel. Are also into film cameras?
I have a GT that has the pad of death issue, but it still does shoot at 1/500th. I just use my light meter cell phone app and adjust the aperture accordingly. It still takes great pics! Love that chair btw, never saw one with one armrest and a coffee table for the other!
best video on this camera by far! thank you so much. just learning and you're super informative. thank you again
Excellent introduction. I just received a new battery (Exell A32PX) in the mail, and it fits and works perfectly in the Yashica Electro 35 GSN.
This is a really efficient and informative video- if you can’t get the battery conversion sorted (I’ve never been able to and it may be faulty wiring but anyway), it’ll still shoot just fine. You do the metering and the camera shoots at 1/500 automatically. I think you mentioned this but just adding to the Yashica Electro love- These are amazing little cameras and the lens will constantly provide clear and crisp shots.
Thank you for the kind words! I agree, the lens is quite good and I always have fun using this camera.
This is a very professional and informative video. I'm still on the fence about this camera, but I picked up a few tips here. Thanks.
I'm pretty sure that adjusting the film speed dial will work exactly like an exposure comp dial. Dial towards a slower film speed and you will get (in 1/3 stop increments) a brighter exposure, and turn towards higher numbers and you'll darken the exposure.
I'm picking mine up tomorrow and I'll give this a try to make sure.
I'm the kind of person that would try that for a shot or two and then forget to set it back to normal afterwards!
You are correct that you can trick the camera into rendering a scene lighter or darker by switching the ISO on the fly. For most films there is an acceptable range of flexibility, but the ISO selection only spans ~5 and 1/2 stops so you don't have a lot of wiggle room for films with ISO near the extremes.
What eqs that fingers flicking at the beginning saying Yashica?
Hey, do you know how I can test my meter? I am using 4 x 1.55v silver oxide batteries in a sort of adapter but other then when the lighting is obviously under or wayyyy over, I feel like the camera is metering wrong for the more subtle lighting scenarios. Any ideas what could be wrong?
I had the new Yashica TL Electro X in my Navy days 1971-75. I loved it. I took literally thousands of slides & prints with it and it never gave me any problems. Along with the great Kodak film, I took some great pictures.
marbleman52 yes, the Yashica of the past was a solid performer, unfortunately now it's just a shell of its former self.
I knew that the Yashica was not the 'Cadillac' of the 35mm cameras back then, a Leica would have been sweet.. but my needs...and especially my wallet...HA...dictated my getting the Yashica. I had heard about the Mamiya/Sekor but I do not remember exactly, 40+ years later...why I decided on the Yashica. The camera was fine for my needs and skill level; it's how I learned about F/stop & shutter speed & basic picture composition & all the basics. I enjoyed knowing that I could decide how I wanted a picture to look and achieve it. Of course, today I have a nice 35mm digital SLR and it's amazing. And now with photo editing software...wow...a dark-room on your computer..!!
Excellent video
I got the GS , in very good condition , for a penny basically, very crude but is a beauty and fun to use.
Hey, nice and informative review. I love that cam, i own the Electro35 GS and it takes wonderful pictures, for the battery problem you can also get a cheap adapter for it on Amazon or ebay and use pretty cheap and available batterys then. Looking forward to your next Video when you show us your pictures with it😉📷
Did you get any test shots with your camera? I’m considering getting one, but I like my images to be sharp and when I look around at other people’s images they’re often quite soft. I don’t know if that’s the camera or the fact that the people buying them want something semi automatic that has a bit of a Diana or Lomo feel. I guess I don’t want to be frustrated by the tool and would love your thoughts.
Do you have any opinion on the Yashica FX103? I have it and enjoy it quite a lot :)
To your Yashica Electro 35 rangefinder list you should add the Yashica MC, GX, GL, and MG-1 cameras; nevertheless, the GSN was probably the best known of the of the Electro 35 rangefinders.
Yashica has made quite a few cameras so I chose to focus on the line of cameras that had the 45mm f/1.7 lens, which is arguably the best fixed lens Yashica has produced. The other cameras you mentioned have either the 40mm lens or lenses that aren't as fast at f/2.8
@@TheScienceofPhotography I can understand that. The Electro 35 series was a great family of cameras. I also enjoy the accessories that went with them.
Well presented and informative.
So where the updated video with the walk around?
Leaf shutter does not necessarily guarantee sync to all speeds, it's just the good ones do (usually the ones with aperture blades at the same time working as shutter blades)They are still single or multiple blades that travel at a certain speed. If it does not travel fast enough then you can't have it sync at very fast speed. There are leaf shutter camera (for instance Ricoh GRD)that have different sync speed at different aperture: at smaller aperture it gives higher sync speed, since the shutter blade needs to cover a smaller opening.
You make an interesting point. I disagree somewhat about the good lenses being those that combine shutter blades and aperture blades. Most of the best classic lenses (Schneider, Rodenstock, Zeiss) have separate aperture and shutter blades.
I do agree that the flash sync ability is limited by the mechanical speed required to cover the physical size of the lens opening which is why most historical leaf lenses (copal shutters, Hasselblad V series lenses) are "slow" often having maximum shutter speeds of 1/500 sec. Even the most modern high end leaf lenses max out at 1/1600.
With the Ricoh GRD (one of my favorite cameras) you are correct, you are pushing the mechanical limit of the speed of the leaf blades. However, we are now in the realm of trying to sync at shutter speeds of 1/2000-1/4000. This is far beyond any normal range. Even so, the GRD has a built in Neutral Density Filter that compensates for this allowing fill flash at any shutter speed.
For the Yashica, this problem is solved by the camera locking in the shutter speed at 1/30 in flash mode and letting the aperture dictate the exposure.
Thank you for contributing to the conversation!
@@TheScienceofPhotography I'd like to add a comment to clarify flash synchro with a leaf shutter. Simple flash synch is the "X" setting and which in older cameras is 1/30th second. ( Older Focal plane shutters share this, too, although advances in shutter design allowed for higher synch speeds.)
Getting back to leaf shutters, the X setting is used for the older type flash bulbs, and electronic flash. With bulbs, the shutter is synched at 1/30 to allow the bulb to burn to reach maximum output and the shutter is tripped at this point. This maximises the light from the bulb. In reality, because a bulb burns relatively slowly and takes a few milliseconds to reach peak power, it is fired before the shutter opens. The timing of this maximum output and the shutter firing is where we get the term "flash synch" from.
Now because the duration of burn is quite long relative to shutter speed, leaf shutters can synch with a bulb up to their maximum speed, which is generally 1/500 sec. However, as this captures only a brief instant of the bulb's burn, flash power is significantly reduced. and depends upon the selected shutter speed.
Now with strobes (electronic flash units) these fire the instant the circuit is completed and so can be fired at any shutter speed, even up to the 1/500 sec setting. The difference is, these flash units fire much faster than the shutter speed, so all their power output is captured whilst the shutter is open. So a photo taken using an electronic flash is not affected by shutter speed, EXCEPT where the ambient light is sufficiently bright to affect the background illumination. Experienced flash photographers use a technique known as flash synchro to balance the flash output with ambient light, including sunlight. Because of this, leaf shutters are far better for a wide variety of flash situations than a focal plane unit.
The vast majority of leaf shutters are conventional in that the aperture blades and shutter leaf blades are entirely independent. For these, please refer to my comment below. However, I am aware that some cameras combine the action of shutter speed and aperture setting to the shutter blades alone. I have no personal experience of this type of shutter, but I can understand why the "normal" application of flash synchronisation may not apply.
Great video once again! Thank you for hopefully showing curious about Yashica's Y35 backers a little history. Have you tried the Yashica Lynx? the all fully manual predecessor of the Electro 35?
Thank you! Stay tuned because there's a lot more to come. I have not tried the Lynx, but it's another great affordable option for people wanting to explore film photography.
wait, but if you 'trick' the camera bu changing the ISO, that's going to cause problems while developing the film, right?
No, it will not effect development if you use the ISO setting to correct exposure. Here is an example. You want to shoot a scene that is backlit like a portrait with a lot of light behind it. The camera thinks there is a lot of light so it will use a fast shutter speed. Even if you change the aperture, it will still use a shutter speed that thinks there is a lot of light. If you take the picture like this then the light behind the person will be exposed, but the person will be dark. To get the person correctly exposed you need to compensate by using a longer shutter speed to let more light in. You can do this by changing the ISO dial so the camera thinks the film is less sensitive and it will use a longer shutter speed. So if you are using 400 speed film and you want 2 stops of exposure compensation you set the ISO dial to 100. You still develop the film as 400 speed film, but that frame will have 2 extra stops of light.
Hope that makes some sense. I plan on making more videos about exposure soon that will help with these kinds of topics.
oh no it totally make sense. Actually yeah, by giving my question few more though, can say that it's not the brightest. Now the only thing that still gives me some head scratch, and couldn't find online a proper complete answer (might have to search it in old books), is how ISO on camera affect the light sensitivity of the film, mechanically. Aperture and shutter speed are pretty obvious, same for ISO on digital, but can't grasp how it works with film cameras.
When it comes to film ISO is a property of the film and cannot be changed by the camera. If you want to "change" a film's sensitivity you can push or pull process after the fact during development. For example, if you take Ilford HP5 which is a 400 speed film you can push process it by metering and exposing as if it was ISO 1600 and then developing for a longer time in development. Ilford publishes times for different developers in order to push the film to higher ISO values.
Never be afraid to ask questions, that what I and my channel are here to do, educate people who are interested in photography.
so basically the ISO settings on the camera are more a reminder for film developing? Can't wrap my head around what ISO setting on film camera does.
The ISO setting on a film camera is used to adjust the internal light meter. If the camera's meter says f/16 and 1/125 at ISO 100 when you change it to ISO 200 it will read something like f/22 at 1/125 or f/16 at 1/250
Nice video!
Thanks!
THere were more models after that. I have a GL which is slightly smaller but has a 40mm f1.7 and ASA to 1600. It came out later
True, the GL and the GX came afterwards with the wider lens, but were only made for a few years. They did offer some improvements in metering over the 45mm lens models though. I chose to focus on the original series with the 45mm lens because they were the most commonly available.
I am the proud owner of a Lynx 1000, I used the hell out of it in the late 60's.Where does that fit chronologically ?
The Lynx came out in 1960 and was a beloved camera. The first version of the Electro 35 came out in 1966 and the GSN model featured in this video began production in 1973. Thanks for stopping by, I hope it inspires you to continue shooting with your camera!
Thank you for your response, unfortunately my Lynx-1000 may not be film worthy anymore. But I still occasionally shoot film with my Minolta SRT-102 from time to time which was my last film camera before going digital. Great channel.
I am a proud owner of a Lynx 5000 and it is a slightly older model. In many ways the Electro is a Lynx with more electronics introduced. Decades later the Lynx and even earlier Ministers seem to be more reliable because they are all clockwork mechanics wheras the decades old electronics in newer cameras start to fail. Fun fact is Yashica also made a version of the Lynx with a 45 or 50mm F 1.4 lens which to this day is the fastest lens ever mounted on a fixed lens rangefinder.
man i would love to buy a yashica electro 35 and feel like spider man :P
The Asian Leica.