AC Welder Conversion Upgrade For DC
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- A layman converts his AC only welder to both AC and DC. Please follow all safety guidelines when working with high current. This conversion achieves critical parts housing while changing the appearance of the cabinet very little. The changes were tested and all appeared to be working very well. This is an advanced project. Not all welder machines may accommodate the parts demonstrated in the video.
Thanks for the clear presentation for modifying the Welder to be BOTH AC and DC by simply switching cables. Any chance of getting a video showing and explaining the wire connections that allow the machine to remain AC and yet be simply re-connected to be used as DC?
Good question. This machine has a center tap coil secondary that is used for the low range. I connected to the low range for DC. Actually, I was a bit surprised to find that the open circuit voltage was 78 VDC after the conversion, but then the full wave bridge added some volts. You could simulate the same effect with a massive switch to move the wires between the rectifier and the straight AC. In other words, an AC/DC switch. Or without a switch it would still work either way. I don't believe I'll be making another video on this other than to add a smoothing choke to the DC side that will remove most ripples from the power. Don't know when that will be. Thanks for your question today and please approach this sort of project with plenty of caution.
nice job. you want to reverse the polarity electrode negative, should weld smoother. also that is a fast fill rod, try a 7018 fast freeze rod.
Thanks. I have that and I agree on the 7018. I really like it. There wasn't enough time to do enough tests for the video. Also, other rods must have DC like the Aluminum rod, so they say.
Very nice work by the way! I thought the same thing about making my own connection!
Good.
Buen video, como consejo te hace falta una bobina inductora a la salida, esto hace mas estable el arco al disminuir rizado
Gracias. Acabamos de cubrir eso y lo demostraré tan pronto como pueda usando un transformador de microondas. Técnicamente, la bobina es un "estrangulador de suavizado" y aparece en esquemas para suministros de voltaje medio (B +) como para tubos alrededor de la década de 1950. Gracias por tu interés.
Pretty amazing your work man ship
Thank you
put the compound on teh back of the rectifier!
Your machine seems capable enough. Your welding skills need improvement. Practice! You should assume a comfortable position, preferably sitting at welding bench. Practice! Try to eliminate all inconsistencies in weld height, weld width etc.
Oh yeah, I agree. I didn't have much space that day to set up. The key thing was to demo the upgrade not to do stellar welding, not that day. Ha! Next time.
Did you install a bleedoff circuit?
No. There should be no need for that since there is no capacitor involved. You may be thinking of a power supply vs a welding power source. Ideally, a choke coil should be installed, but I have not been able to find one that would be acceptable. Nevertheless, the DC produced is excellent and the machine works very well.
7014 has 30 percent iron powder and the amperage should be increased accordingly.
Heat sink is from where ?
This is generic and is probably on eBay. The diode box may fit on numerous sinks. This one is nice because it's stacked and takes up little room.
I've got the 230amp of version of this and can't find a manual for it anywhere. My terminals are down where your pointing and are fixed wire not quick connects I'm wanting to change that as the inner housing under the face plate has the holes for the 295 amps quick disconnects. Otherwise it was cool to see someone else using one of these machines as Google seems to little information on the 295amp and I've only found pictures of the 230amp version on 2 auction sites.
I understand. The machine has no manufacturer origins, nothing. Not a single lead and no way to find anything for it. I bought mine for $20 giving me the right to haul it away from someone who didn't want it. Ha. What a heck of a deal. You probably can modify it if you take your time. Be careful when you do.
@@michaelbradford2816 buried deep in Lincoln electrics parts search tool i found a part explosion for both our models the 230amp being referred to as 110-080 and your 295amp being referred to as 110-081. They weren't anymore informative than me tearing it apart to clean it up but it seems like century made these under a 3 brand solar. Mine has 0 model or branding left on it. The dial label is barely legible even I was blown away the inside was just dusty
@@BaffledBelief Good. I wonder why there was so much secrecy about the model name? You'd figure someone would want to promote it, unless it were only for market testing. I thought the cabinet looked a lot like a Century machine. Good thing it was so well made and requires nothing to keep going. Thanks.
Do you have any photos of how you wired it before the DC rectifier?
I did, but they didn't convey much. On my machine there are two ranges. I tapped into the lower range. I have no switch to throw for AC/DC. I don't think it'll matter, however. The DC won't be in use when AC is and vice versa. If you have a heavy selector switch that controls a single AC output, it's probably a good idea, but probably not needed. Expensive rigs seem to have that. I think a large AC contactor with a low voltage coil could be used well. You'd have to install a new 24v transformer for that, if I'm following your concerns? The rectifiers should isolate will as is. The wiring is very simple for what I did.
Ese pegante que aplicas como se llama??? Y para que lo aplicas ahi???
No es pegamento. Es compuesto termico necesario para el enfriamiento del rectificador. Salsa secreta.
What is the amperage of the rectifier did you use? thank you
I forget exactly now, but get the largest one available. The cooling is the key and insulation.
Do you think it needs a capacitor?
No.
Do you think it needs a capacitor?
No I don't. It would probably blow out instantly while adding nothing to the circuit.
@@domainmojo2162 Wow! Thanks for that insightful reply! I'll try it with an old xfmr I have.
You know, I'm going to do this as an experiment and I'll record it when it warms up here. I've got an old microwave transformer I don't need with the high voltage coil removed for another experiment. One of my other welding machines came with such a choke in it. I just didn't think that much about it. By the way, the DC starts very easily as you could see in the brief amount of testing I did on screen. Some special rods demand DC as for Aluminum. I'm planning more experiments and videos. I'd really like to weld AL with a no fuss machine. Others on YT have demoed that and that's what got me started. Technically, the choke is referred to as a "smoothing choke" typically for higher voltages. The transformer in my machine produces voltages quite a bit higher than I expected, but I would not have known or cared. Glad you are getting something from my work. Be careful too!
@@domainmojo2162 Great! Notes of this type really help numerous people. I'm a big believer in hanging onto what you already have. I paid $22 for that welder and have loved every minute of using it. Great comments today!
7014 runs on ac or dc