Improve Heavy Clay Soil
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 тра 2024
- Turn your clay soil into the best garden soil you have ever used.
0:00 Start
1:40 clay soil myths
5:20 Measuring the amount of clay
6:40 Solving a clay problem
Become a better gardener, Subscribe: ua-cam.com/users/Gardenfundamen...
Share with a friend: • Improve Heavy Clay Soil
-----------------------
Free Stuff:
Free Garden eBook: 24 1/2 Garden Design Ideas:
www.gardenfundamentals.com/24-...
-----------------------
My Books:
Garden Myths:
www.gardenmyths.com/garden-myt...
Building Natural Ponds:
www.buildingnaturalponds.com/
Soil Science for Gardeners
www.gardenfundamentals.com/so...
------------------------
Free Resources:
Garden Fundamentals Blog - lots of gardening information:
www.gardenfundamentals.com/
Garden Fundamentals Facebook Group:
/ gardenfundamentals
My Garden Myths Blog:
www.gardenmyths.com/
Building Natural Ponds Facebook Group:
/ buildingnaturalponds
-----------------------
Recommended Playlists
Seed Germination - Everything you need to know:
• Improved paper towel a...
Garden Myths:
• Epsom Salt Myths - lea...
-----------------------
Improve Heavy Clay Soil
Myths about clay soil, using gypsum to break up clay, adding organic matter - which method is best?
List of Credits:
Images:
All slides and videos belong to GardenFundamentals.com or are public domain images, except for the following:
digging clay soil by Justin Leonard: www.flickr.com/photos/scrap_p... - Навчання та стиль
U don't have to guess if have clay soil when you try to dig in it is when the shovel bends and you spend an hour using a pick to dig a small hole
Yes, adding organic matter is the way! Another easy and effective way to do this is to grow a cover crop. For clay soil you'll want to pick really tough plants with strong root systems like sorghum sudangrass, okra, cowpea, sunn hemp, sunflower, safflower, flax, etc. and grow them in a diverse planting of 8 or more species. In general you tailor your mix to your soil texture and conditions (i.e. low nitrogen availability, lack of structure, the presence of hardpan, etc.). Cover crops pump organic carbon straight from the atmosphere down into the soil in the form of photosynthates, and feed the soil microbes that actually improve the soil in the process. At the end of the season, you'll also have tons of mulch to cut down and feed to the soil, further increasing organic matter levels. I've seen cover crops turn rock hard dirt into dark, friable soil crawling with worms in a single season. They're even more powerful if you combine them with soil amendments like compost and manure. It may take a whole season but it's worth the wait. Plus you can interplant them with tougher veggies that do well in unhealthy soil such as beans, potatoes, and sunchokes.
Yes finally a comment that has some facts behind it!! Thank you!!. I’m a zone 3 Canadian gardener. And cover crops are key to soil health. Always plan your garden bigger then needed and can crop rotate, compost in place and cover crop the unused area. Broad beans, oats, peas, wheat are my choice this year.
How do you plant cover crops like okra or sunflower?
scatter the seeds and cover with 1" of mulch@@Naimimclauch
I live in Chicago. I had 18 inches of clay topsoil, with yellow clay underneath. We had the sewer drainpipe collapse. They dug a trench 30 ft long x2 feet wide. So, I had a lot of that yellow clay to deal with.
I used gypsum. Let it sit and percolate for 3 months. Had to pulverize it with a sledgehammer. Then I added sawdust, sand and compost, all in equal amounts. Used it in raised beds, adding 3" of compost and 1/2"sand, and 1/2" peat moss for 2 years. That's how long it took to make it decent.
The vegetable garden was turned every spring for as long as I can remember. When I got my shot at it, I double dug it and added a mix of compost 3/4to 1/4 sand about 3". That year the plants were enormous and my mom freaked out.
So, the best way to improve any soil is, COMPOST.
Sounds great, simple and very practical. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I live in Texas and I want to turn my new property into a big family farm and market garden. The clay is real here. I don't want to amend and plant right away but I want to start improving a large portion over the next year or two. I want to do a till once and never again type of deal.
Everything I watch contradicts the last thing I watched and I have no clue what I'm going to do now lol.
I got fed up with my soil, after I had several planting failures, now I am adding alot of sand, manure, compost and tilling all that in. No damage would be worse than what has been😅. Let's give it a serious try!
I have been teaching these same principles for aquariums. Aquarium substrate needs to be soil with a sand cap to prevent leeching into the water. This simple system works miracles in an aquarium. It is a joy listening to you Robert.
Kellogs outdoor potting soil looks great but it is stunting and killing whatever I grow in it. My heavy clayey native garden soil, with sand, composted native brush chippings and lots of manure makes plants thrive. I am done with any "Soil" in bags.
Late response but I'm having the same issue with that particular soil. My garden grows really slow or eventually they'll die. No wonder why it's so cheap for all that soil. At this point I don't know what to get
Fellow gardener here the soil you buy you don’t know the source, if it’s been composted with plants that have been sprayed with residual herbicide could be your issue. If you have soil that’s high in compost. Some plants have allopathic properties that suppress plant growth. Sunflowers are known for this ability. Hope your his helps. Also look into cover crops they will build your soil from the ground up. Cheer from zone 3 Canadian gardener.
Thank you for reinforcing my belief that when in doubt, add compost. In Texas 8b, I'm growing on a thin layer of top soil over mostly limestone. You can see the yards and yards of rock wherever roads have been cut through the hills. So I keep adding compost. The plants like it.
Same
If you have clay soil add a thin layer of gypsum, alfalfa pellets, finely shredded leaves, a light layer of sand, shredded paper, and kitxhen scraps and till it all in when fall comes. Cover with another layer of alfalfa pellets then shredded leaves and grass clippings mixed. Let it all break down over winter and you will get good producrivity come spring.
Great video. I'm currently double digging my garden beds, removing the top 6 inches of heavy clay, then using a fork to aerate the bottom layer of clay before mixing it with mushroom compost, worm casting, and bark mulch to prevent further clodding. I also added live earth worms, red wigglers, and rotting plant matter (mainly vegetables) to further enrich the soil. I'm looking forward to next planting season! Thanks again!
But do you have that new secret?
@@bryanrawls4794 what's that?
You put bark mulch in the soil? Bad idea it will rob all your nitrogen
@@mitchelpohl8635its actually good advice for clay. Yes it will temporailly draw out some nutrients as it degrades, but you can just fertilize more the first year. Then the next season the soil should be excellent.
Did a perc test a year or so ago here in St Louis. Had about 1/4” over an hour. Working on our rain garden now to get rid of what I call Lake Crestwood in my backyard.
My take has been (for a long time) that the best thing to do is to disturb it as little as possible. That's mostly alluded to at the end of the video where the advice is no regular rototilling, keep it mulched, treat it like an established bed. I note that all of the things that people are supposed to buy and have to be mixed in, which goes against the advice to disturb it less. Basically, if you keep some mulch on top, the cracking issue is avoided and over time the creatures that live in the soil will establish a structure that holds air and drains water. Tilling undoes all their hard work. There are no instant fixes. Also, of course, if you must disturb the soil never do it when the soil is wet. That's just begging for a sticky clay mass that will dry as hard as brick.
Great advice. I’ve been gardening for 30 yrs. and I continue to learn. I thought adding sand was bad but I can see the value. However I agree that incorporating organic matter over time is ideal.
...I really enjoyed your common-sense approach....this newbie gardener thanks you
It took like three years of tilling my hard clay backyard and tens of thousands of pounds of compost to set up my garden, now anything I throw back there grows like its no ones business.
Great help for my efforts to improve my clay soil.
Exactly what I am looking for, very much thank you!
A quick search through peer reviewed published science did not find an exact study on sand added to clay focusing on soil concretization, though it may exist (if one spends a chunk of time searching) as there are university environmental/ag departments' pdf publications stating such. But here are some very interesting studies on amending clay and the effects of various amendments, including University of Colorado and Oregon State. There are however many studies on various forms of silica in clay. The first link is University of Illinois also claiming concretization without study cited, and then the second link is University of Arkansas giving a more thorough explanation of soil particle structure and interaction, complete with drawings:
extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2018-01-31-does-sand-improve-clay-soil-drainage
www.uaex.uada.edu/farm-ranch/crops-commercial-horticulture/horticulture/ar-fruit-veg-nut-update-blog/posts/adding-sand-to-soil.aspx
In addition, UW prof writes:
Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University
The Myth of Soil Amendments Part II:
"If you have a clay soil, add sand to improve its texture"
There are many many more university articles from many geographical disparate regions stating the same thing, in pdf's and online. None I have found quotes a study, instead they all speak of the particles and their interaction and how much sand would be needed to be effective (50% amendment).
OTHER RESEARCH:
And here are many studies on clay amendments and various focus areas:
cdnsciencepub.com/doi/abs/10.4141/cjss68-044
,www.scirp.org/html/7-2800287_22463.htm
journals.lww.com/soilsci/Abstract/1996/11000/IMPACT_OF_SOIL_AMENDMENTS_ON_INTERMITTENT.8.aspx
cdnsciencepub.com/doi/abs/10.4141/cjss68-045
link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11368-021-03049-z
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9780444814906500169
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/B9780444814906500200
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0167198722001684
I dugout my whole front by hand and sifted it also breaking up the clay clumps just added some compost hopefully I get some good crops out of it as it was back breaking but the earthy smell was relaxing
Excellent information. Thank you sir.
Wow! Great info! Thank you
Charcoal is amazing for our little microbe friends, id definitely look into it for that reason alone.
Hi, Outstanding video! Very informative! Keep up the great work! Best, Albert from SF, USA
Fungi help break down clay, deep wood chip mulch is great for this but it takes time. 👍🏻
Great wisdom. Thank you
Legend. Thanks mate!!
Thanks for shareing
I live in Georgia, and have established 2 yards in red clay soil that have been scalped for new construction. Red clay soil is very hard when dry. The following is what has worked for me and is mostly in line with what is stated in the video.
Work in composted pine bark(organic matter). 1 part compost to 2-3 parts soil. Even this amount of organic matter seems to disappear in the soil in a matter of a few years. Work in a thin layer of pine bark nuggets also. These will break down over time and it seems to keep the soil softer longer. Plant your plants. Finally put a mulch that will break down (wood chips, pine straw, pine bark nuggets, finely chopped leaves, etc). The mulch is the key to lasting soil improvement in Georgia red clay. The only disagreement I have for Georgia is the thickness of the mulch. Pine bark or wood chips thicker than 2-3 inches have caused disease problems for myself and others. You could go thicker with straw, probably thinner with finely chopped leaves, but get it thick enough and I suspect you would get the same problem. I am always hoping to find a easier way, but over time for Georgia red clay under your shrubs organic amendments then mulch seems to be the answer.
Additional I'd recommend pinestraw for perennials that sprout from the ground like daffodils.
Bingo on the disappearing organic matter.
My local garden center believed that sand would turn my clay soil harder to work; then another source repeated it. I use lots of peat, but have sort-term results. I have a truck load of sand now and will try that. My perennial garden was once a woodsy bog. Raising the garden beds higher is my priority right now.
If you could share the results, it would be really helpful to all of us.
Thank you. I live on the edge of a clay pit.(literally). I used lime and sand, it worked well. I thought on my own that sand would create some space around the clay.
Just for the record the cheapest way to get gypsum is get a sheet of drywall and bust it up with a hammer. Its just pressed gypsum between 2 sheets of paper covering.
Adding sand really helped to loosen that 5-inch layer of topsoil. This summer, I am adding "dehydrated cowmanure". When the June draught hit, my soil retained the water from my soaker-hoses.
I've added sand and also thought my clay base soil had improve.But stopped because I heard that cement rummer.
Thanks
Before we switched to permanent raised beds and created soil from scratch, we had heavy clay soil. The only real downside was that we could not rototill and fluff up the soil until it was dry enough. This made it very difficult to plant cold crops early enough.
I didn't watch the video yet but I will to see how our methods compare. Having clay is great. Add organic matter as much as you can get, the proper microbes, fungus ( I use happy frog 🐸 fertilizer for fungus)
Cover with clean non colored cardboard and hay on top of that. Introduce earthworm's if none show up. Of course rototill the whole thing first if you can but it's not 💯 percent nessasary . Plant thru the cardboard . Plants like comfrey have a DEEP ROOT and break up hardpan and bring minerals to the surface and make plenty of vegetative matter to build more soil. I could go on but if you just do this the second year your garden soil will be completely different and will get better every year.
What do you do when your established garden is removed for foundation work on the house?
I'm left with big chunks of clay against the new foundation. Break up the chunks into a mud and form a ramp away from the house? Then, build a bed of my clay soil glazzed in sand on top of that? Loose dirt on top of that? We have about 6 inches of really amazing soil before we hit wet clay. Our clay stays wet.
Thank you. I was told gypsum also but I was worried about it and salt. So I thought I'd add the remnants of the leaves that's almost powder after it rains. My mom adds black topsoil and miracle grow soil to it and plants her flowers. I was even going to buy regular soil to add but wasn't sure if it was wise. In some spots of the land the soil is almost like concrete. Packed hard. The little area I wanted to work isn't completely clay but if I squeeze it I could use it for making pots or bricks. I'm glad I found you on the Google page.
compost. compost. compost;) keep heavyy clay covered and preferably perennials. good luck;)
I have clay soil and the best of all solutions is composted manure. It's the bugs and microbes that do the work and a manure based compost seems to be the bugs favourite. You don't even need to dig it in, just mulch with it every year and watch the change.
Thank you very useful information 💚🙃
Thank you, my favorite myth buster! Everybody is talking about clay or sand. My soil is almost pure silt, and a really tiny bit of clay. The garden and neighbourhood is scratch new and I was in need of some more soil to elevate the ground to normal ground level at some places, so I bought some sandy garden soil and mixed in on some spots (only superficially because it is rockhard down there). I tried to grow some plants this year but they remain small and they're having a hard time (probably because the roots cannot penetrate the compacted silt layer) What would your advise be to improve silt soil structure? Till once (minimum depth?), then add mulching every year? Till a few years? Growing green crops and mixing that in into the soil? Just once? Only growing them and cutting them above soil level then mulch? What would be ideal and what would be best I can without spending more money?
You just saved me hundreds, if not thousands of $$$. Thanks!🙏✌
Do you do e-transfer? :)
@@Gardenfundamentals1 🤣🤣🤣
UA-cam don’t pay much ! Lol 😂
excellent! infio. i have listened to many videos already, but this is top notch .Please tell me which state you belong to. as that also makes difference for me when taking pointers . texas heat and drought has too many variations i need to adjust
Ontario Canada.
My soil test told me the Sodium (Na) is high at 31.02 (.5 - 30). So, adding a soil conditioner to my Lawn will improves my water retention? I have a fantastic Green lawn but I notice drainage can be an issue with some areas having clay 3+ inches down.
Thank you😅
I enjoy you videos
i go with topsoil because it has sand but also many other types of soils.
I had clay soil once that was as hard as a brick when it was dry and you could pull it like taffy when it was wet. The only solution was raised beds.
I'm wondering if he used all-purpose sand or horticultural sand as there's a clear difference in the size of the sand pieces.
hey!
your book,does it contain all studies for all claims? i kinda expect it to be,you being scientific and all.
thanks,
What kind of soil would be suitable for planting strawberry runners?
ua-cam.com/video/kphMc_Rkz_o/v-deo.html
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
we live with black soil with rocks and clay under it .i am doing a test plot . am digging down 10 feet mixing in cow manure and wet hay in lawyers . yes mixing it all up . want to plant fruit trees and shrubs . will also be making a trench from ground level down under it with a septic field spread out . will only be from cow winter yard . what are your thoughts. each section will have a culvert standing up to be able to keep track of what the liquid is doing
Overall, good advice. And it maybe necessary to till the first time you're growing. But don't kid yourself that there's "no soil structure to destroy because you don't have a garden yet." Silliest thing I've ever heard. Whatever is growing in the soil, whatever is living in the soil, create the soil structure. You'll destroy it, and it might be necessary. But it's there.
I've read that the bond between water and clay is very strong. So much so that much of the water is unavailable to plants (source: Botany for Gardeners 3rd edition by Brian Capon, Chapter 8, page 180)
Is this true? and does it also apply to any macro or micro nutrients? (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, etc)
" much of the water is unavailable to plants" - depends on how you define "much". Most of the water in soil is available to plants, but at some point the water level is low enough that roots can get any more of it. This is called the permanent wilting point.
Clay does hold water better than sand or silt.
roots have trouble getting cation nutrients (P, K, Ca etc) because clay is mostly negatively charged. Nitrogen is usually in the form on nitrate which is not heavy held by clay.
ua-cam.com/video/S5cI9IJ9wdM/v-deo.html
Will a Ruth Stout approach work on expansive clay in Colorado?
yes
Your voice and speaking style reminds me of my pastor
My landscaper just putting a sand instead of soil I just find out now I don’t know what should I do 😢
What kind of sand is suitable for Silty Clay Soil?
sharp sand used for making concrete or cement
What's worse is expanding Clay soil. In drought it gets huge cracks that I can't imagine are good for roots.
Huge cracks can be a sign of deficient microbial life in the soil, especially fungi. Fungi and other microbial life actually work to hold soil together as part of the soil food web. So if you till or deeply disturb soil, you break and destry mycelium networks that were holding the soil together. It might be temporarily loose when tilled, but will later turn to this deeply cracked soil. Another common cause of the cracks is lack of organic matter.
How to add organic matter without tilling? You can try a broadfork and lay your compost on top of the soil in a no-till or no-dig style approach to gardening. Or you can grow cover crops in the shoulder seasons before or after your main crops.
Stuff alfalfa pellets down in those cracks as they appear and watch over time if those cracks dont stop apoearing. Also cover the soil with shredded leaves and grass clippings mixed and some alfalfa pellets mixed in. After one winter sitting it will give you good enough soil to grow anything you want
In my opinion, if you grow in a sub-urban vegetable garden rather than a small farm, then churning sand into your permanent beds really is the solution to fixing clay. People say its enough to just add organic matter to the soil, but even they cannot argue with good faith that clay full of organic matter is better than sandy loam or even sandy clay filled with organic matter for satisfying a broad range of plants. The reality is that if your forever garden is in clay, then you might as well spend the $200 on improving the dirt's composition before spending years fostering excellent soil. I just feel like the argument of 'you shouldn't add sand, you just need to add organic matter' is as silly as 'you don't really need to exercise, you just need to eat healthy'. Its not BAD advice, but its not great advice either, and is either due to self-deception on the part of the suggestee or the product of a well meaning person who fell prey to the reiteration effect, often learning from organic farmers their strategies to improve large areas of farmland, which do not represent the best solutions for home gardeners. Besides a few farmers who grow a monocultural crop that favours clay, every farmer would settle on sandy loam as their dirt of choice, which really should be convincing enough on its own to convince you of the merits of adding sand, which unlike for a farmer, is entirely within a home gardeners budget, work capacity and time commitment.
Add compost, peat & pearlite, and gasp, cough, do a pagan sacrifice, whatever, then till, yes till to mix once. Then organic compost on top and build up organic to break down. Soil takes time and requires mulch.
What kind of sand are you adding to your clay?
course builders sand and gravel - the kind used to make concrete.
Good old sandbox sand for the kiddos sandbox works well for me.
All clay is not equal. Black gumbo clay is very different from red concrete type clay.
One issue with using sand, is the 'type of sand. Not all sand is gritty and porous. I've had sand that didn't drain, that held water and rotted plants.
Digging 5-6" of organic matter is the best idea. My problem is that I can't dig into my ground and a rototiller does not penetrate the ground whatsoever; so......how do I get it into my clay? I have tried leaving leaves on the ground and it still hasn't worked due to not enough moisture for breakdown.
For red and yellow clay, with a trenching shovel or spade, I'll dig one deep but narrow trench the width of my plot to start. Usually I'll trench straight thru the center of the plot. Then i throw down 6" of compost on the top surface of the entire plot, and use the trenching shovel to separate the clay every 4 inches or so. Split the soil to allow the compost to pour into the separation of the clay. Than the rototiller will make quick work of it down to the depth of the shovel.
I continue to dump on compost and rototill until i have a 50% mix of clay soil to compost.
If the clay is too dry, a trenching shovel can't even penetrate it, so wet it down first and let it sit for a while. If too wet, its a clay muddy mess that sticks to everything. the moisture has to be just right to dig in it.
What type of manure, chicken, cow, horse.
Rabbit droppings are the best
I have red clay soil. Calcium and nitrogen deficient . I supplement with souliable Gypsum
Charcoal (biochar) actually works for clay soil much better than sand because it promotes soil biology. The main problem is source material availability.
There are a lot of problems with biochar. I don't recommend it for the garden. www.gardenmyths.com/biochar-work-garden/
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Did you ever grow tomatoes in 20-40% biochar? Did you hear about Terra Preta or the African Dark Earth?
Because I'm using it myself and the tomatoes grow better than in cow manure compost. I grew corn and greens in it. It prevents compaction which is 99% of the problem with heavy clay soil.
Yes you can act like a vegan and only find what suits your bias, but if you want to have an objective opinion - try using it (and do so properly).
A few years ago when I first learned about biochar I thought (like you) that it's basically worthless, and I learned a lot since then.
By far the biggest issue with biochar (besides people's ignorance) is its cost, or the cost of production (because of lack of raw material).
I don’t have heavy clay soil but I see a lot of you tubers who tell horror stories about amending a bed and creating a bathtub or that they need small explosives to dig deep (joke)
Why would adding compost to clay soil improve it?
As I understand it, to improve the soil we need to:
- Change the relative proportions of clay, sand, and silt (which just refer to different particle sizes, not to any specific element)
- Make the proportion of these homogeneous across the soil we are improving
How does adding compost on top of the soil achieve the above? Why couldn't I add silt and/or sand to the top of the soil to achieve the same effect?
It is very difficult to change the ratio of sand, clay and silt - and it is not needed. Compost adds carbon, feeds microbes which improve aggregation and compost has a high CEC.
ua-cam.com/video/zbgHZV9j8RQ/v-deo.html
The most important thing that needs to be added is none of clay, sand, or silt. It's actually a component you didn't mention at all: air. Having air spaces in the soil allows water to drain and allows oxygen to reach plant roots. Organic matter in the soil and on top will feed worms and insects that burrow into the soil and create air pockets. Plant roots and chunks of organic material will also leave air pockets behind when they decay. Vigorous tilling might look like it's adding air, but because the soil is unconsolidated after tillage it will rapidly settle and most of the air will be forced out. You don't have to go no till, but err on the side of tilling less.
How do I improve Silty Clay Soil?
add compost
Young plants have a problem getting their roots to break through clay,
Why don't they sell bags of silt so we can mix clay, silt and sand?
My soil is such dense and compacted clay that I literally can’t get a garden fork to penetrate more than 1/4 inch. And when wet it’s so claggy but STILL impossible to dig into because it’s so heavy. I’m in gold country, so there’s also weirdly magnetic chunks of metal in it. My plan is gypsum and then add as much organic matter as I can. I’m just concerned it will sit on top and not penetrate since the soil is SO compacted underneath. There’s no way worms could survive in it right now. Sigh.
www.gardenmyths.com/gypsum-improve-clay-soil/
How can you sit like that so long?
Great… I got sand sand and more sand
Mr. Garden Fundamentals. I dont know any other way to msg you but I have a question on NPK and I see you as the garden authority. I hear tons of gardeners telling people that NPK ratios are also percentages by weight and it doesnt add up to me. I also have never heard a munufacturer make that claim or seen a percentage sign on a label. You have so many videos that I didn't know where to look for the answer if you've mentioned it before. Could you clarify this for me? Thank you.
You can always ask question in our FaceBook Group: www.gardenfundamentals.com/facebook-group/
NPK are weight % values, but it is a bit more complicated. www.gardenmyths.com/fertilizer-npk-ratios-what-do-they-really-mean/
@@Gardenfundamentals1 TY.
Sand will turn clay to cement if you are not careful - plus requires huge amounts….loads of organic matter over many years is what’s required clay sucks big time…gypsum takes ages to break down and will excessive calcium to most soils…
I have heard that for 25 years - and for that long I have been asking for some proof that sand plus clay gets hard. I am still waiting to see some proof. But if you have some, I'd like to see it.
www.gardenmyths.com/sand-and-clay-dont-make-concrete/
M
I have chalky and clay soil. Worse soil ever.
Bags of "garden soil" regardless of brand are not really what you are defining as soil in this case. In this video, what you are defining as clay "soil" is better called "clay earth", and earth, of any kind, is inorganic and does not decompose. Garden "soil" on the other hand does indeed decompose over time because there is little to no "earth" in it. It's mainly composted "forest products". So garden soil, being actually compost, is therefore definitely OK to add to clay EARTH to improve it since you stated compost is a good thing to add to clay soils (aka clay earth) since compost has organic matter in it. The word "soil" is very deceiving in the gardening industry.
I stopped with the reference to agricultural fields watered with salt water. Give me a break.
Also, saline and sodic (alkaline) are different things.
I enjoy your content but I feel you do yourself a disservice by treating your own anecdotal evidence as wisdom and other peoples' anecdotal evidence as myth. Either you should appreciate effective techniques that other people present anecdotally without demanding studies as proof or you should exclude your own anecdotes from any conversation and stick to published studies for an conveyance of information. Whether or not you are correct in your observations, you simply can't have it both ways and maintain your integrity.
The problem is that others peoples anecdotal information is always presented as proof, with no details of how it was arrived. I did not present my experience as proof and I understand the limitations of my testing.
I also presented what other people have found. I acknowledge that they find their soil gets harder, but that does not mean this happens in all situations.
If I had any scientific evidence I would believe it.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Thanks for your reply and I appreciate your response. I will concede that you haven't presented your observations as fact, but did give them merit in the conversation where it seems the standard would be higher for anyone else's observations to receive equal standing. I mean, it makes sense that you would trust your own senses more than someone else's, but shouldn't we try to remove our own bias?
I think part of the problem is that studies are less prevalent for non-commercial gardening solutions. For instance, I can't think of why any company would sponsor a study to review the efficacy of corn flour as an effective garden anti-fungal (hypothetical). Who would stand to profit from those results? That leaves us with traditional application and/or personal observation as the only "proof" of it's efficacy. How do we accommodate for this type of evidence in the absence of published studies? Do we just dismiss them out-of-hand and demand proof?
Also wanted to thank you for introducing me to Pseudofumaria Alba, which I find very attractive and appropriate for my Zone 5a location. I enjoy your content and hope I don't come across as critical of your excellent content. I'm just wondering how we in the gardening community can understand and appreciate techniques that anecdotally seem effective without being elitist and dismissive if no published studies exist to support our observations.
Thank You.
There was an Asian guy who did a video experiment with buckets of clay soil and he added different things like sand to see which one gave him the best planting soil. The sand was not the best. I think compost was the best. He filmed the whole thing and was one of the few who knows how to do a real experiment with controlled conditions, changing only one thing at a time.
stop waffaling
You really need to do your research and you are perpetuating the sand myth. There are tons of university studies about adding just sand to clay soil. Here’s an excerpt from the university of Arkansas:
“First let’s talk about soil particle size. Clay, silt and sand are actually just names for different sizes of soil particles (see image below). Clay particles are the smallest and tend to be very tightly layered together. This arrangement in part results in slow movement of water into and through the soil. If the clay soil gets compacted and loses some of its structure, the result is even worse drainage.
Image sho sizes of different soi
Sand particles are the largest and tend to be more loosely arranged which allows water to pass through quickly. If you mix sand into clay, the clay particles will fill in all the open spaces between the sand particles and often the clay will act as a ‘glue’ sticking all particles together, ultimately resulting in a more dense soil.
In fact think about the ingredients to concrete, which are gravel or sand and a fine particle binding agent (AKA cement which is derived from limestone and sometimes clay). Similar to how cement will bind particles of gravel to create concrete, clay soil can bind with added sand particles to create a more dense soil.
Where this myth gets even more confusing is that most soils are not just 100% clay, 100% silt or 100% sand, they are naturally a mixture of some combination of all of these particles. The relative percentages of each determines the soil’s texture.
Too bad you did not watch the video.
1) As I said in the video there are lots of people who disagree with me.
2) As I said in the video I have yet to see a study - what you have done here is just copied someone's opinion. It is not a study and proves nothing.
In nature, plant roots grow in soil (a combination of clay, slit and sand) in other words, inorganic material.. You won't find plants growing in organic material like compost or manure. In nature, organic material is always found on the surface; never buried in the ground. If you want to follow nature (and you should), never work in or bury organic material into your soil. Never throw organic material into a planting hole. And remember, organic material NEVER becomes soil. Soil comes from broken down rock. When organic material is finally completely broken down through the composting process, two elements remain: CO2 and HO2.
I don't know about this... as my most successful trees were planted in holes where the bottom was full with kitchen scraps.
If you don't have organic material, you do not have soil. You have dirt. Soil isn't just sand, clay, and silt. It's the organic material as well.
@@JuanMiro507That's because this person either never took an Agriculture class or they fell asleep during a science class. I'd like to see them grow health plants without organic material. It's just not possible unless you use a lot of fertilizer.
@@KyrenaH You need to go back to school and study soil science, or read a book on it. Did you ever study soil in school? Soil is made up of a combination of Clay, Silt and Sand. There may be a tiny percentage of organic material in it, but it would be less than one percent. Please tell us how organic material would end up under ground in nature. Organic material falls from trees and other plants and lands on the ground or surface where it starts to decay. Organic material never becomes soil. . Dirt? Dirt is what you empty out of your vacuum cleaner or shoe.
Downplaying biochar? Poor research dude
And yet you did not provide any link to research showing it should be used in gardens?
www.gardenmyths.com/biochar-work-garden/
@@Gardenfundamentals1 i know my personal experience and it's awesome. It's not hard to get better information that the one you posted. I difference biochar from charcoal just by charging it or not with nutrients and microbiology. And he's messes up comparing the activated charcoal use cases, he's all over the place. It's exactly because you can saturate it with water nutrients and life that you want it, it's just a sponge for you to use. It's not good for everyone because some people have good soils to start with, it wasn't my case so i had very noticeable difference. I suddenly had things growing too much too fast. It was the single best thing i added to my clay soil so i was seriously convinced you'd mention it. But whatever, don't even try it!
@@Gardenfundamentals1 ua-cam.com/users/USBiocharInitiative there you've got a good source of info. Please do better 👍