This is probably one of the most important videos for gardeners today! I'm not being sarcastic, the global increase in the garden market is a huge money trap for many and will only get worse. Thank you for keeping it real, and I hope many see this and stay aware of garden myths that may be harming their wallets, the environment and their garden.
I've been gardening for over 50 years and just learnt something new regarding fertilizers and tomato myths, also loved the relaxed way our host delivered his information.
Ive gotten a reputation as a "mean spirited" guy in my local garden group because I share your videos - like this one. People get downright angry at me for attacking the myths theyve held to for so long.
Bloom boosters do work. I've tested this myself numerous times. You can literally trigger a plant into blooming with them. You only need 1 application and within 2 weeks, your plant will start blooming profusely. You can test this by having 2 of the same plant growing in the same spot, with the same conditions. Give one the bloom booster and give the other plant your normal fertilizer. the plant given the bloom booster will start to flower. This might not work on every plant but I know for a fact this works on citrus, tomatoes and peppers. Pepper plants are always blooming but the bloom booster will give you more blooms. I live in Florida zone 9B where I can grow 365 days a year. I have tons of time to test stuff like this.
You can study at university for 5 years, and possibly get a degree, and it might be a good one, that made you useful. Or you can watch UA-cam tutorials, selectively and judiciously, and become like a well balanced soil, not just a ticketed perpetuator of what the system feeds off of, like a provider that is a parasite at the same time.
Thanks for this. When I watch the Garden Answer channel and all the fertilizers she uses on a constant basis, it make me think that my garden will be a failure if I’m not spending money on biotone or berrytone or etc., etc., etc. She goes through literally skids of the stuff.
She does a great job with her videos, but ..... she is paid by companies who want her to sell products and plants. And she gets all that stuff for free. Some of her advice is not science based - it is biased.
I add forest soil, some sand from the bottom between hills in the forest, leaf mold, parts of very rotted logs and stumps, green grass clippings all go right in the garden between plants and around fruit trees, and I burn a thin layer of leaves in the garden in February and spray it in. I make rows in fall to plant in spring by mixing mowed leaves with fresh grass clippings and put forest soil on top mixed with leaf mold. I mix this around from time to time. I add a small amount of urine to these mulched areas. Any leftover plant parts like from beans, peas, squash, corn, etc stay in the garden. I`m having to build up my soil. Previous people here ruined it.
It would be nice to hear a video on how pH in soil can affect nutrient availability and why we might get chlorosis on plants. Is it iron deficiency in the soil, iron in-availability due to pH? How to deal with chlorosis in the garden? Thanks!!
I've spent four years going from "dig" to "no dig" for my vegetable plot & at the same time, transitioned from using artificial fertiliser at 100g/m² twice a year to an annual compost mulch (all home made from grass clippings, vegetable waste, etc.) plus 50g/m² of blood fish & bone meal. Year one, I applied a 3cm compost mulch but didn't fertilise & saw my yield drop considerably, so year two saw another 3cm layer of mulch plus two applications of artificial fertiliser at 50g/m² & yields were restored. Year three I applied 3cm compost & one dressing 50/50 mix of blood fish & bone meal & artificial fertiliser at 50g/m² for an increased yield. Year four was 3cm compost plus 50g of blood fish & bone meal & again an increased yield. This year, I might do without the added blood fish & bone. From what you've said, I guess that's a demonstration of how it takes time for nutrients from compost to become available to the plants. I have to say the feel of the soil is completely different after four years of adding compost & not digging - scrape down 5cm & a handful is actually slightly resilient when squeezed, rather than compacting, plus there's far more evidence of worms & fungi.
@@がうがうわんこThis is my 2nd year of gardening. This year I surrendered to using synthetic fertilizer. Last year I used Dr. Earth's all purpose fertilizer only at planting (2-2-2) and my sweet potatoes in that bed (4x8) did ok. I harvested 4lbs out of it but the potatoes were small and skinny. I want a better yeild this year which is why I used the fertilizer and plan to prepare to go organic in the future. And I did add compost, grass, black cow, and worm castings before planting on March 3rd.
Hello. Just letting you know that as of today, you are my new gardening guru. Back to basics, natural and common sense is what sold me. I’m looking forward to more of your teachings,saving me time, energy and money. Thank you sir.
Just like the majority of viewers, I too admire your contributions to gardening through your channel. I have learned a lot through your videos. It really is comforting to see that someone knowledgeable is recommending mostly compost for our soils. I just have one question because I have not seen you address the practice of using human urine as a supplier of nitrogen for our soil. I am not aware nor seen any video on this topic. What would you recommend in the use of urine?
You have me convinced the only question I have is where does the 3-1-2 ratio come from ------ please? The Miracle Grow I have has a 24 - 8 - 16 ration which can explain the 3 - 1 -2 and why they make it and why plants respond so well to the miracle Grow. And another question I have is it accurate when the "experts" say to reduce the nitrogen and increase the phosphorus when the plants begin to "flower" to grow better and larger "fruits"?
It could be why it responds well. Have you tried others? Is it in a pot? In a pot with close to 0 nutrients a 3-1-2 ratio is perfect. As for switching to something more heavy in phosphorus and Potassium for flowering there is no scientific data backing it up. However that does not mean it does not work. A ton of people use this method and swear by it. You can try a control with one heavier in phosphorus and on another plant just use the regular 3-1-2 ratio and see if you get a difference.
I like your way of thinking ------- I'm going to try an experiment this year I'll give 2 tomato plants extra P & K (when they start to flower) {Alaska Morebloom 0-10-10} and the others just the plain 3-1-2 {24-8-16} feedings and see if the extra is really worth it. @@Rocketman0407
@@Rocketman0407 that's not really true, the research this guy uses to support the 3-1-2 ratio shows that fruiting plants need more potassium. he himself says this, however i cant find the article. he references a bachelor's thesis some european dude wrote that talks about it.
@@Rocketman0407 i found the thesis in my history, it's called "Do Plants Require Nutrients in Similar Proportions?" by Joachim Nachmansohn. "There is a strong foundation for the generality of the challenging hypothesis. However, there are exceptions. Exceptions applies in principle only to production where fruit tissue is harvested. In such culture systems the fruit tissue represents a major part of the total plant biomass. Moreover, the fruit tissue is virtually the only thing that is abducted." basically because you're taking the fruits off the plant you take more k than other nutrients thus you need to be feeding more k to keep the ratio.
Oh my! I am listening to my college professor. You give such an in-depth teacher. I have learned so much from you. Thanks for the tutorial. 7:42 pm. Boston.
I agree that it’s far better to approach fertilizing on a deficiency basis in the soil, but it doesn’t take into account that some plants are naturally growing in more fertile soils than others. Also selective breeding has had an effect on plant genes, where often times profuse (re)flowering is selected for. It’s basically in that plants genes to perform like an athlete, needing an abundance of nutrients to do so. Putting it in the garden alongside plants that haven’t been selected for the same traits might not give the results you’re hoping for, or at least the plants don’t reach their full potential. So what exactly is a deficiency then, and what is abundance? And when does abundance become over saturation? I think many gardeners are looking for that sweet spot to have nutrients in abundance in their soil, but just staying away from excess.
I completely agree. You can’t put all plants in the same box. Comparing tomatoes and cactus just doesn’t fly. Some plants like potato need a lot of potassium, cactuses need a lot of minerals. Trees has very deep roots and rely on microbes to break down nutrients for them.
I love the channel. Although obtaining advice from someone who’s telling me about how I’m being sold, only to try and sell me a book, is kinda ironic. I’m a big boy, links to studies would be ideal.
I watch quite a few garden channels that upset me. People try to use chemistry and biology terms like they understand how they work. For the first time I'm so happy listening to someone talk. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm sorry you have fewer views and subscribers, you deserve so many more. I argue fertilizer with my friends, got so irritated that I finally used solvents to extract fertilizers from compost to prove my point.
yes, i do agree with you Why Mr. Pavlis have a fewer subscribers maybe because he doesn’t sell advertising to promote his channel (duh?) fellow gardeners get the facts not from a mumbu jumbu advertisements, and most of all grow organic, use organic pesticides and organic fertilizers good for your Health and Environment Good for Planet Earth. Thank you Mr. Pavlis for your channel keep up the good work👍🙏
I always say do what works for you. I was using pesticides and synthetic fertilizers for years with terrible results. Now I go organic and have never looked back. I don't spray the bad bugs because I'll be killing my good bugs. My stuff looks great and is healthy. But one thing to remember is at 14:45 in the video, carbon,carbon, carbon. That goes for both fertilizer. It's all about the carbon.
Great insights on debunking the marketing schemes! Although nitrogen fertilizer can actually be harmful. Not in the sense of the effectiveness on the plant's yield, but the fertilizers disrupt soil systems. (bacteria, fugal system, inserts work together to provide nitrogen to the plant in exchange for nutritions created by the roots, fertilizer will replace the role of these organisms thus render the soil less and less fertile. That's why it's common practice to increase the amount of fertilizers each year to maintain the same yield)
As a over zealous gardener I know I over do it like a overprotective moma. I spent too much on them .Snd always looking for the next way to improve my plants..pets too🌱🌾🌼🦋🐦🐈❤❤❤❤
I feel that the best option is a sort of hybrid system using an organic source of fertilizer and correct use of chemical fertilizer. Because from studying a lot for my personal garden, soil health is our problem, not the fertilizer source. A good soil with plenty of organic matter will be able to use less inputs and hold nutrients that would otherwise just wash out. And runoff can be organic such as manure or chemically derived source
I put banana peels for my roses for extra boost. Other than that I don’t do anything in the garden. Clay soil is very fertile. Once a while I get many dandelions. But they disappear as soon as the soil recovers.
Thank you, great content. The best fertilizer for Orange trees? Fallen Orange tree leaves and orange peels. Best fertilizer for Avocado trees? Fallen Avocado tree leaves and avocado fruit skins. Etc., etc... Never remove fallen leaves from under your trees. And "return" as much organic material as you can to the trees by throwing peels, fruit skins, etc. under them.
Carrot peels into the carrot patch, beet leaves and peels into the beet patch, squash peel into squash patch, etc etc. also leave finished plants where they grow until all leaves have dropped and root has died.
Great video, of course I will have to study more to learn what you are saying for myself in order to know myself, but made me feel better about what I already do know! Thank You!
Each fall I top dress with whatever compost I've managed to generate over the previous year, then cover it with a layer of about two inches of shredded brown cardboard. That's it. The exact source materials vary from year to year, but I don't worry about it. I live on a couple of acres, so I get plenty of weeds, leaves, and grass, plus kitchen scraps. I don't till, but I do grow potatoes and peanuts, so all the beds get mixed in over time as I rotate. Yes, it takes a few years for the soil in a new bed to really get rolling, but that's fine.
Thank you for this video. I'm 68, a first time gardener and my head is exploding from the abundance of differentiating ideas and info concerning soil and fertilizers. I wonder how pioneers and victory garden growers did it w/o all this fancy nonsense. Well...now I know the rest of the story. Thank you!!!
Get your soil checked and go from there. I live in MN and the U of M Extension services do it for a small fee. University Extension services are always good for accurate and noncommercial information. My soil is just fine and I just top dress it with compost. Compost is almost always helpful. Get to know experienced gardeners or find stuff online ( but I always take a mental average of what I learn there). Good luck
I know this video is 2 years old, but I just found this channel and really enjoy it. I'm going to be planting tomatoes in 5gal self wicking buckets. My soil mix will be 2 parts peat moss, 2 parts fully composted steer manure, and 1 part #3 perlite. I know this mixture will need fertilized. But, I'm not sure where to start. Add phopherous, potash, calcium, garden lime. What is a good starting point to get the mix ready to support a tomato or peppers? Thanks in advance.
Excellent presentation. One reason to use “organic” fertilizer types is because the organic can usually cost little to nothing. If Anyone plants something in the ground where nothing has been planted (except for the natural grass) then nutrients in the soil should be sufficient because there has been nothing to cause a deficiency in the soil. The soil microbes have been thriving naturally and the grass growing naturally wont usually cause any nutrient deficiency because the life cycle of the grasses will return the dead grass parts back to the soil which in turn creates natural nutrients. If I fertilize my Lawn once in the spring I apply a 3-1-2 ratio formula in my broadcast spreader, According to my local University Agriculture Department guidelines. The rise of social media has given rise to bad and costly practices published as “science” but is only old folklore appended by modern technology and promoted as Truth but is anything but. Robert is a real Scientist. Here’s the real deal. No BS. 👍🏻
Natural soil can be deficient - soil is made by the rock that decomposes in that spot. If the rock was deficient in a mineral, the soil will also be deficient - example as sandy beach.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 I live within an area formed by the Mississippi River known as the Barataria Estuary. The soil is the product of thousands of years of natural flooding and deposits by the Mississippi River. Much of the typical soil is a clay commonly referred to as “Blackjack”. It’s rich and very thick and this entire region was traditionally since the arrival of the First German Settlers and has been until more recent times agricultural (now it’s primarily based upon the petrochemical industry). The biggest problem I have with gardening is not in the fertility of soil but the water drainage issues as the density of the blackjack holds back the heavy spring rainfall. I’ve spent a good bit in raising my gardening area with additional dirt to get the plant roots up from that hard pan that holds lots of moisture and drains slowly. As always your information you provide is so invaluable for so many gardeners who regularly gather at this “watering hole” to get solid gardening science.
All i know is that in a suburban backyard, whatever sort of dirt the builders dump into our yard and cover with Bermuda sod doesn't seem to have any life to it until you amend it for a few seasons. We couldn't grow much of anything until we added a ton of compost and fertilized.
I like using bio stimulants like kelp extract and kelp meal, sprouted seed tea of alfalfa, mong bean, and corn. Also pure protein fish or say hydrolisate. Some molasses. Only on high value medicinal plants in pots though. Why? They are claimed to increase nutrient uptake, provide minerals, and in theory could increase terrine production, taste and flavor. I think mostly it whips the microbes into a frenzy. However I wonder if its all just for fun and tinkering.
This should make for mandatory watching for anyone growing plants in the yard or in a container. I could have saved some money over the years! One question though- if I’m adding new plants to an area with large trees and shrubs, what is the likelihood there may be some nutrient deficiencies? Or is a soil test the only way to find out?
Chem fertilizers especially nitrogen will be of help in the spring when soil is cool. Organic fertilizers just don't release usable N in the cold. And if you put enough organics on that it helps in cold you probably overdid it by the time soil warms up.
Great Info. I was thinking also that when nutrients are too deep in the soil, they might not be available to the roots of the plant. I guess worms would help and possibly fungal or microbial networks. Feed the topsoil not the drainage or leaching process. Encourage great roots. Just thinking out loud.
I really enjoyed this info and it gave me more to learn about and understand. I guess I got confused in one instance. Near the beginning you say plant don’t really need fertilizers to grow better plants it’s a soil issue. Near the end you said you sometimes fertilize your vegetable garden to produce more fruit before snow comes. 🤔 so fertilizer can help with fruit production and quicker? Or not?
Re foliar feeding - I CANNOT understand how this can possibly work. Are you suggesting the fertiliser enters through the stomata? Aren't these for gas exchange?
Thank you for that! A gardener sure can learn a lot watching your videos! I found this particularly informative, there sure is a lot of false information out there! Thank you so much!
We have multiple gardens. Every single one has several small tree roots running thru them. Does that affect the way plants grow by strangling the roots?
I'm listening again ------ on the one hand what your saying does make sense ------- BUT ------- explain how farmers always get veggies that are so much bigger and abundant than the everyday gardener?
They don't. Large-scale farmers have lots of undersized or ugly plants and produce. You only see the best of the best in the grocery stores in America. Upwards of 50% of the produce is either wasted, composted, or never makes it onto your store shelves.
Great information Thank you. Would you have any tips on mosquitoes and an effective way to keep them from breeding in your water barrels. I noticed the dunks are not effective anymore.
Robert, what are your thoughts on lawn fertilizer? Do we need to fertilize as much as the "lawn care nuts" say we should and what is the best lawn fertilizer?
Depends. Years ago I never fertilized my lawn, but I did spot spray weeds to kill them. In Canada they outlawed herbicides, so now I fertilize to keep the grass growing better which helps control weeds. We think this is better for the environment, but I doubt it is. Granted I spot sprayed - while many others just sprayed huge amounts of herbicide even if they did not need it. I use Urea, 45-0-0 fertilizer. I don't need P and K. But it is strong and will burn the lawn if you spread too much.
Hello, I have a question for you… I recently started working at a dog grooming salon. The salon collects a lot of dog hair clippings that they throw in the garbage. Could I harvest this organic material and use it as mulch or in compost and also help to save it from going into landfill. Will the bacteria from the dog hair be harmful to the plants and will the vegetables be safe to eat? I have a small urban garden in Toronto. Thanks so much for your help
I placed the hair as mulch in the garden and left overwintered. There are some bits and pieces left to be seen on top of the soil. I had about 4 big bags of it and it seems to have dissolved and become part of my soil. Using the beds now for growing veg and young cherry trees in my small city garden
My gardening approach is always experimental that's what makes it fun. The path of discovery helps me see all the things God has made and laugh at things we do to combat the consequences from the fall. The older I get the more I realize how little I truly know.
Does this information apply to the "Potting Mix" soil free stuff? So many of us are container gardening now. Very little out there from knowledgeable gardeners who understand potting mix.
A new thought that came to me is how many people put like a 30-0-2 chemical fertilizer on their lawn and their grass does very well? Obviously the "salts" are NOT killing anything in the soil or the grass would just die off. P.S. you should have explained it this way ------ sodium-chloride (kitchen table salt) is a salt BUT NOT ALL SALTS are sodium-chloride -- like --- Ford is a car but not all cars are Fords. OR There are mushrooms that are very good for you to eat BUT there are certain mushrooms that will kill you and just substitute "salt" for "mushrooms" and "plants" for "you".
Home tests are wildly misleading. Assuming you live in the US, contact your local university extension office (you should have one in your county) and you should be able to get a comprehensive soil test for less than $30
My biggest problem is high PH. My soil is around 7.5 and my well water is 8 or more. I have both Sulfur pellets and liquid Sulfur. Which would you recommend or is it necessary ?
I live in the center of phosphate production in central florida, and yet there's little if any of it at garden depth. You need a dragline to reach it in deep underground. Garden/farm soil is gray sand devoid of nutrients, and and synthetics run through it at a rapid pace, yet it is intensely farmed year round from oranges to strawberries i.e. "Plant" City, due to the conducive weather. There's not enough organic material within 200 miles to support our intense agricultural production. On the one hand, this production wouldn't happen without synthetic fertilizer. On the other hand, our beautiful vegetable agri crops are so productive only due to being arguably the most pesticied/fungicided crops in nation. But my crying is moot, since due to the out of control destruction caused by root knot nemetodes, ive gone exclusively to container gardening.
There's a UTube video of the movement of ranchers of herd relocation to adjacent grazing on their land. The cattle eat, deposit their poops and are moved on to another fenced in area to repeat the process. The roots in the soil go down three ft in some cases and the grass is tall like the Great Plains were. The neighboring rancher across the road spends thousands of dollars on salt based fertilizer. His grass is shorter and the soil is hard as a rock with plant roots going down but a few inches. nature's way.
I foolishly bought a big container of Miracle Gro that I will probably never use. Since overuse of fertilizer can kill a lawn, could I use it to kill the weeds growing through the asphalt in my driveway?
Don't use it as a weed killer. You're just gonna salt the soil. If you have MiracleGro, use it. But use it sparingly. There's nothing wrong with Miracle Gro unless you're an organic zealot.
You said 14-12-11 is balanced … but actually those are oxide numbers .. the actual % is 14% N , 10% P and 5% K . For solid fertilizers it is the K2O EQUIVALENT (not ingredient) that is the NPK provided
Before adding anything to your soil, have it tested. People do the same thing with vitamins. People take vitamins thinking it will keep them healthy but more than likely they take more than they need (or do not need at all) and it gets urinated out. Plus, too much fertilizser or vitamins can be harmful to you or your plants.
If I have typical junk food nutrition style, you can bet that I have vitamine deficiency, and 90% of the people in the world do. Yes, it is so much better to adapt proper eating behaviour than to use supplements, but it is still better to use supplements if one refuse to fix its diet. Now, this problem doesn't exist in most soils around the world, as nature is not stubborn as most people are :)
very good but, you forgot one important thing about fertilizers. the NPK numbers added up is the total percentage of those major nutrients out of 100% of total material in the fertilizer. So, if you buy say a 5:5:5 fertilizer, that's 85% not nutrients, either water or whatever bulking material. tv gardening shows have advertised heavily in last few decades "organic" fertilizers and materials that cost people money, and contain very little fertilizer. i got off the organic woo, which is all it is. i bought a bag of 20:20:20 + TE and have been injecting it via drip system i veggie plot. the fertilizer cost me about $150 and lasting me more than two years. it is literally 60% active main nutrients, much better value than bottles of seasweed or other concoctions that are more smell than fertilizer. i've grown loads of great veggies with this commercial grade fertilizer, after ten years of wasting time and lots of money making compost and other snakeoil concoctions. the saddest part is that these garden shows and others evangelizing false promises of a false organic gardening, since there's no credibility from foundation and up, is that they know what they're doing. organic is something of a religion, being based on whatever lies they can get away with.
@@randyman8984 : false economy only works for so long, before you start to add up the costs. Made eventually great big bays, which later cost $100 to line with plastic. $350 shredder. countless hours turning sometimes heavy compost, sifting, ameliorating, spreading. apparently my time is free. after all that, all those tonnes of compost didnt make infertile soil magically fertile. just prone to being soggy all winter and goes hydrophobic in summer. veggies were still growing way too slow. now i spend time productivelly, quickly growing seedlings, growing to matutity and collecting, and putting in next lot. i easily have 10x more veggies. the silly merry go round of organic becomes a silly waste of time and money, achieving little, but being fooled doing miracles for the planet..because bad bad synthetic fertilizers etc snakeoil. almost all that compost added to the soil becomes atmospheric carbon dioxide. only organic hoaxters would have you believe pests dont eat plants if organic and other nonsense. structured water etc. the most fertile soils on earth are because of mineralogy, not because forests worth of dead plants added. i used to delude myself i was doing great with all that composting, using organic concoctions, mulching, etc. now i know what it's like to actually grow lots of food, efficiently.
What you say is very true - always buy the highest numbers, but the ratio is also important. In a 20-20-20 you pay for a lot of phosphate you don't need. Fertilizer does not contain carbon - compost does - and this is also of value for soil building.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 : very little P in our soils here in Oz. In any case, 20:20:20 is not bad ratio for general use, according to vegetable needs, according to charts. P gets a bad wrap because it can run off to waterways, causing algal blooms etc., when overused on commercial scale in proximity to waterways. P is very much needed for good plant development--apart from native plants here that need small amounts--and is removed and needs replenishing along with other nutrients, in a vegetable garden situation. Established good percentage of soil carbon is 5%, with diminishing returns at higher rates. Compost and other dead matter provides a food source for tiny critters, good and "bad" ones, and has physiological effects on soil as it is broken down. However, it is an extremely inefficient way of putting carbon in the soil anyway, as almost all of the carbon is cycled to atmospheric carbon. You may disagree but that is a well understood and empirically studied fact. A more efficient way to increase soil carbon is simply growing plants, which readily exchange sugars with soil life, that cycle it into soil as carbon. In any case, apart from extremely low soil carbon, good levels of nutrients (and not carbon) make a much more important difference. That's why farmers apply carefully measured fertilizer, instead of applying shredded wood to soil. temperate forests pump out a lot of atmospheric carbon dioxide in the fall. all that leaf litter is loved by mushrooms but, we dont see big cabbages growing at edges of forests. since the evolution of cellulose consuming critters, large amounts of carbon are no longer able to accumulate in soil, that eventually used to lead to formation of coal. So if it's not about growing veggies for the kitchen, we sure arent doing much good for greenhouse, producing mostly atmospheric carbon, by putting in loads of dead plant matter into soils.
I can't find a 3-2-1 fertilizer anywhere (I'm a beginner) for container vegetable gardening, any suggestions??? Can I use multiples of the ratio and just reduce the percentage added to water? For example 9-6-3 says to use 1/4 tbl to gallon. So would I use 1/16 tbl to gallon?? Help please.
Yes, you have the right idea. 3:1:2 was only used for the ratio. You'd use 1/4 T in 3 gallons. I commend you for finding this series, dear Beginner; You will do well to watch them all.
This is probably one of the most important videos for gardeners today! I'm not being sarcastic, the global increase in the garden market is a huge money trap for many and will only get worse. Thank you for keeping it real, and I hope many see this and stay aware of garden myths that may be harming their wallets, the environment and their garden.
I see it on all garden groups..... the mistaken idea - the myth - that fertilizer is a must, and the salvation of the garden.
You can help by posting in in other social media groups. Thanks.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 I do, regularly.
You’re a go-to
Watch and you will understand, ua-cam.com/video/xzthQyMaQaQ/v-deo.html.
Cscc💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾❤❤
I've been gardening for over 50 years and just learnt something new regarding fertilizers and tomato myths, also loved the relaxed way our host delivered his information.
Ive gotten a reputation as a "mean spirited" guy in my local garden group because I share your videos - like this one.
People get downright angry at me for attacking the myths theyve held to for so long.
😂😂good job😂😂not always easy, but good.
His views go against big ag propaganda I am thinking this is why the controversy 🤷
A great refresher for me in Feb. 2024🎉😊
Bloom boosters do work. I've tested this myself numerous times. You can literally trigger a plant into blooming with them. You only need 1 application and within 2 weeks, your plant will start blooming profusely. You can test this by having 2 of the same plant growing in the same spot, with the same conditions. Give one the bloom booster and give the other plant your normal fertilizer. the plant given the bloom booster will start to flower. This might not work on every plant but I know for a fact this works on citrus, tomatoes and peppers. Pepper plants are always blooming but the bloom booster will give you more blooms. I live in Florida zone 9B where I can grow 365 days a year. I have tons of time to test stuff like this.
I have learnt more following you for 3 days than ive learnt over the last 47 years 🙏
Thank you so much.
You can study at university for 5 years, and possibly get a degree, and it might be a good one, that made you useful.
Or you can watch UA-cam tutorials, selectively and judiciously, and become like a well balanced soil, not just a ticketed perpetuator of what the system feeds off of, like a provider that is a parasite at the same time.
Finally a gardener who debunks the common myths with actual science. Thankyou for your mythbusting of the marketing bs and giving helpful advice.
Thanks for this. When I watch the Garden Answer channel and all the fertilizers she uses on a constant basis, it make me think that my garden will be a failure if I’m not spending money on biotone or berrytone or etc., etc., etc. She goes through literally skids of the stuff.
She does a great job with her videos, but ..... she is paid by companies who want her to sell products and plants. And she gets all that stuff for free.
Some of her advice is not science based - it is biased.
I add forest soil, some sand from the bottom between hills in the forest, leaf mold, parts of very rotted logs and stumps, green grass clippings all go right in the garden between plants and around fruit trees, and I burn a thin layer of leaves in the garden in February and spray it in. I make rows in fall to plant in spring by mixing mowed leaves with fresh grass clippings and put forest soil on top mixed with leaf mold. I mix this around from time to time. I add a small amount of urine to these mulched areas. Any leftover plant parts like from beans, peas, squash, corn, etc stay in the garden. I`m having to build up my soil. Previous people here ruined it.
I am so glad you brought awareness to her and her channel.
It would be nice to hear a video on how pH in soil can affect nutrient availability and why we might get chlorosis on plants. Is it iron deficiency in the soil, iron in-availability due to pH? How to deal with chlorosis in the garden? Thanks!!
After seeing and listening to your videos Im starting to understand this ratio of 3-1-2!
Very nice
I've spent four years going from "dig" to "no dig" for my vegetable plot & at the same time, transitioned from using artificial fertiliser at 100g/m² twice a year to an annual compost mulch (all home made from grass clippings, vegetable waste, etc.) plus 50g/m² of blood fish & bone meal.
Year one, I applied a 3cm compost mulch but didn't fertilise & saw my yield drop considerably, so year two saw another 3cm layer of mulch plus two applications of artificial fertiliser at 50g/m² & yields were restored.
Year three I applied 3cm compost & one dressing 50/50 mix of blood fish & bone meal & artificial fertiliser at 50g/m² for an increased yield.
Year four was 3cm compost plus 50g of blood fish & bone meal & again an increased yield.
This year, I might do without the added blood fish & bone.
From what you've said, I guess that's a demonstration of how it takes time for nutrients from compost to become available to the plants.
I have to say the feel of the soil is completely different after four years of adding compost & not digging - scrape down 5cm & a handful is actually slightly resilient when squeezed, rather than compacting, plus there's far more evidence of worms & fungi.
I'm on the way to organic mulch, no till method. I love your post, which makes me hopeful.
Perfect - that is the right way to garden.
@@がうがうわんこThis is my 2nd year of gardening. This year I surrendered to using synthetic fertilizer. Last year I used Dr. Earth's all purpose fertilizer only at planting (2-2-2) and my sweet potatoes in that bed (4x8) did ok. I harvested 4lbs out of it but the potatoes were small and skinny.
I want a better yeild this year which is why I used the fertilizer and plan to prepare to go organic in the future. And I did add compost, grass, black cow, and worm castings before planting on March 3rd.
Hello. Just letting you know that as of today, you are my new gardening guru. Back to basics, natural and common sense is what sold me. I’m looking forward to more of your teachings,saving me time, energy and money. Thank you sir.
Just like the majority of viewers, I too admire your contributions to gardening through your channel. I have learned a lot through your videos. It really is comforting to see that someone knowledgeable is recommending mostly compost for our soils. I just have one question because I have not seen you address the practice of using human urine as a supplier of nitrogen for our soil. I am not aware nor seen any video on this topic. What would you recommend in the use of urine?
Thanks for the video! I have been fooled using Epson salt in my garden
You have me convinced the only question I have is where does the 3-1-2 ratio come from ------ please?
The Miracle Grow I have has a 24 - 8 - 16 ration which can explain the 3 - 1 -2 and why they make it and why plants respond so well to the miracle Grow. And another question I have is it accurate when the "experts" say to reduce the nitrogen and increase the phosphorus when the plants begin to "flower" to grow better and larger "fruits"?
It could be why it responds well. Have you tried others? Is it in a pot? In a pot with close to 0 nutrients a 3-1-2 ratio is perfect.
As for switching to something more heavy in phosphorus and Potassium for flowering there is no scientific data backing it up.
However that does not mean it does not work. A ton of people use this method and swear by it.
You can try a control with one heavier in phosphorus and on another plant just use the regular 3-1-2 ratio and see if you get a difference.
Yes in 12 gallon pots/containers.@@Rocketman0407
I like your way of thinking ------- I'm going to try an experiment this year I'll give 2 tomato plants extra P & K (when they start to flower) {Alaska Morebloom 0-10-10} and the others just the plain 3-1-2 {24-8-16} feedings and see if the extra is really worth it. @@Rocketman0407
@@Rocketman0407 that's not really true, the research this guy uses to support the 3-1-2 ratio shows that fruiting plants need more potassium. he himself says this, however i cant find the article. he references a bachelor's thesis some european dude wrote that talks about it.
@@Rocketman0407 i found the thesis in my history, it's called "Do Plants Require Nutrients in Similar Proportions?" by Joachim Nachmansohn.
"There is a strong foundation for the generality of the challenging hypothesis. However, there are
exceptions. Exceptions applies in principle only to production where fruit tissue is harvested. In
such culture systems the fruit tissue represents a major part of the total plant biomass. Moreover, the
fruit tissue is virtually the only thing that is abducted."
basically because you're taking the fruits off the plant you take more k than other nutrients thus you need to be feeding more k to keep the ratio.
Oh my! I am listening to my college professor. You give such an in-depth teacher. I have learned so much from you. Thanks for the tutorial. 7:42 pm. Boston.
Loved the drone shots of your gardens.
Kind of like like adding oil, brake fluid and air in the tires, when you are low on oil, great info again, Thank you!!!
I agree that it’s far better to approach fertilizing on a deficiency basis in the soil, but it doesn’t take into account that some plants are naturally growing in more fertile soils than others. Also selective breeding has had an effect on plant genes, where often times profuse (re)flowering is selected for. It’s basically in that plants genes to perform like an athlete, needing an abundance of nutrients to do so. Putting it in the garden alongside plants that haven’t been selected for the same traits might not give the results you’re hoping for, or at least the plants don’t reach their full potential. So what exactly is a deficiency then, and what is abundance? And when does abundance become over saturation? I think many gardeners are looking for that sweet spot to have nutrients in abundance in their soil, but just staying away from excess.
I completely agree. You can’t put all plants in the same box. Comparing tomatoes and cactus just doesn’t fly. Some plants like potato need a lot of potassium, cactuses need a lot of minerals. Trees has very deep roots and rely on microbes to break down nutrients for them.
I love the channel. Although obtaining advice from someone who’s telling me about how I’m being sold, only to try and sell me a book, is kinda ironic. I’m a big boy, links to studies would be ideal.
I watch quite a few garden channels that upset me. People try to use chemistry and biology terms like they understand how they work. For the first time I'm so happy listening to someone talk. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm sorry you have fewer views and subscribers, you deserve so many more. I argue fertilizer with my friends, got so irritated that I finally used solvents to extract fertilizers from compost to prove my point.
Thanks.
yes, i do agree with you Why Mr. Pavlis have a fewer subscribers maybe because he doesn’t sell advertising to promote his channel (duh?) fellow gardeners get the facts not from a mumbu jumbu advertisements, and most of all grow organic, use organic pesticides and organic fertilizers good for your Health and Environment Good for Planet Earth. Thank you Mr. Pavlis for your channel keep up the good work👍🙏
I always say do what works for you. I was using pesticides and synthetic fertilizers for years with terrible results. Now I go organic and have never looked back. I don't spray the bad bugs because I'll be killing my good bugs. My stuff looks great and is healthy. But one thing to remember is at 14:45 in the video, carbon,carbon, carbon. That goes for both fertilizer. It's all about the carbon.
Great insights on debunking the marketing schemes! Although nitrogen fertilizer can actually be harmful. Not in the sense of the effectiveness on the plant's yield, but the fertilizers disrupt soil systems. (bacteria, fugal system, inserts work together to provide nitrogen to the plant in exchange for nutritions created by the roots, fertilizer will replace the role of these organisms thus render the soil less and less fertile. That's why it's common practice to increase the amount of fertilizers each year to maintain the same yield)
As a over zealous gardener I know I over do it like a overprotective moma. I spent too much on them .Snd always looking for the next way to improve my plants..pets too🌱🌾🌼🦋🐦🐈❤❤❤❤
Keeping it real .respect
I feel that the best option is a sort of hybrid system using an organic source of fertilizer and correct use of chemical fertilizer.
Because from studying a lot for my personal garden, soil health is our problem, not the fertilizer source. A good soil with plenty of organic matter will be able to use less inputs and hold nutrients that would otherwise just wash out. And runoff can be organic such as manure or chemically derived source
Your content is priceless... thank you so much for sharing it... so appreciated ♡
I put banana peels for my roses for extra boost. Other than that I don’t do anything in the garden. Clay soil is very fertile. Once a while I get many dandelions. But they disappear as soon as the soil recovers.
Last year I made a banana peel liquid 'fertilizer' for my potted plants (roses and flowers).
Thank you, great content.
The best fertilizer for Orange trees? Fallen Orange tree leaves and orange peels. Best fertilizer for Avocado trees? Fallen Avocado tree leaves and avocado fruit skins. Etc., etc... Never remove fallen leaves from under your trees. And "return" as much organic material as you can to the trees by throwing peels, fruit skins, etc. under them.
Carrot peels into the carrot patch, beet leaves and peels into the beet patch, squash peel into squash patch, etc etc. also leave finished plants where they grow until all leaves have dropped and root has died.
I found out the Frass sold at my local shop is exactly 3-1-2. It’s a bit weak perhaps, but I will try it.
this is one of the best and easy to understand even if its scientific…
Do you have video comparing different compost/ manures? I get so confused on which is best for my clay soil.
ua-cam.com/video/aONjPeJ-2vM/v-deo.html
Great video, of course I will have to study more to learn what you are saying for myself in order to know myself, but made me feel better about what I already do know! Thank You!
This to me is like finding gold ...thanks very much someone telling it the way it is 💯🤠👍
A big Thanks.I really don't know before. Sorry my english
I totally bought fertilizer for knockout rose in the past 😂😅
Each fall I top dress with whatever compost I've managed to generate over the previous year, then cover it with a layer of about two inches of shredded brown cardboard. That's it. The exact source materials vary from year to year, but I don't worry about it. I live on a couple of acres, so I get plenty of weeds, leaves, and grass, plus kitchen scraps. I don't till, but I do grow potatoes and peanuts, so all the beds get mixed in over time as I rotate. Yes, it takes a few years for the soil in a new bed to really get rolling, but that's fine.
Thank you for this video. I'm 68, a first time gardener and my head is exploding from the abundance of differentiating ideas and info concerning soil and fertilizers. I wonder how pioneers and victory garden growers did it w/o all this fancy nonsense. Well...now I know the rest of the story. Thank you!!!
Get your soil checked and go from there. I live in MN and the U of M Extension services do it for a small fee. University Extension services are always good for accurate and noncommercial information. My soil is just fine and I just top dress it with compost. Compost is almost always helpful. Get to know experienced gardeners or find stuff online ( but I always take a mental average of what I learn there). Good luck
"The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow."---Old saying
I know this video is 2 years old, but I just found this channel and really enjoy it. I'm going to be planting tomatoes in 5gal self wicking buckets. My soil mix will be 2 parts peat moss, 2 parts fully composted steer manure, and 1 part #3 perlite. I know this mixture will need fertilized. But, I'm not sure where to start. Add phopherous, potash, calcium, garden lime. What is a good starting point to get the mix ready to support a tomato or peppers? Thanks in advance.
Excellent presentation.
One reason to use “organic” fertilizer types is because the organic can usually cost little to nothing.
If Anyone plants something in the ground where nothing has been planted (except for the natural grass) then nutrients in the soil should be sufficient because there has been nothing to cause a deficiency in the soil. The soil microbes have been thriving naturally and the grass growing naturally wont usually cause any nutrient deficiency because the life cycle of the grasses will return the dead grass parts back to the soil which in turn creates natural nutrients. If I fertilize my
Lawn once in the spring I apply a 3-1-2 ratio formula in my broadcast spreader, According to my local University Agriculture Department guidelines.
The rise of social media has given rise to bad and costly practices published as “science” but is only old folklore appended by modern technology and promoted as
Truth but is anything but.
Robert is a real Scientist. Here’s the real deal. No BS. 👍🏻
Natural soil can be deficient - soil is made by the rock that decomposes in that spot. If the rock was deficient in a mineral, the soil will also be deficient - example as sandy beach.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 I live within an area formed by the Mississippi River known as the Barataria Estuary. The soil is the product of thousands of years of natural flooding and deposits by the Mississippi River. Much of the typical soil is a clay commonly referred to as “Blackjack”. It’s rich and very thick and this entire region was
traditionally since the arrival of the First German Settlers and has been until more recent times agricultural (now it’s primarily based upon the petrochemical industry). The biggest problem I have with gardening is not in the fertility of soil but the water drainage issues as the density of the blackjack holds back the heavy spring rainfall. I’ve spent a good bit in raising my gardening area with additional dirt to get the plant roots up from that hard pan that holds lots of moisture and drains slowly.
As always your information you provide is so invaluable for so many gardeners who regularly gather at this “watering hole” to get solid gardening science.
All i know is that in a suburban backyard, whatever sort of dirt the builders dump into our yard and cover with Bermuda sod doesn't seem to have any life to it until you amend it for a few seasons. We couldn't grow much of anything until we added a ton of compost and fertilized.
I like using bio stimulants like kelp extract and kelp meal, sprouted seed tea of alfalfa, mong bean, and corn. Also pure protein fish or say hydrolisate. Some molasses. Only on high value medicinal plants in pots though. Why? They are claimed to increase nutrient uptake, provide minerals, and in theory could increase terrine production, taste and flavor. I think mostly it whips the microbes into a frenzy. However I wonder if its all just for fun and tinkering.
Teas are a joke. Improve the soil with the entire cellulose matter of whatever 😊
@@annekincannon-kf3hx Cannabis growers are the biggest suckers. I quit using tea. I have worm casting to last for ever.
This should make for mandatory watching for anyone growing plants in the yard or in a container. I could have saved some money over the years!
One question though- if I’m adding new plants to an area with large trees and shrubs, what is the likelihood there may be some nutrient deficiencies? Or is a soil test the only way to find out?
The chances are low for most garden soil, and a soil test is the only way to know for sure.
Chem fertilizers especially nitrogen will be of help in the spring when soil is cool. Organic fertilizers just don't release usable N in the cold. And if you put enough organics on that it helps in cold you probably overdid it by the time soil warms up.
Great Info. I was thinking also that when nutrients are too deep in the soil, they might not be available to the roots of the plant.
I guess worms would help and possibly fungal or microbial networks.
Feed the topsoil not the drainage or leaching process.
Encourage great roots.
Just thinking out loud.
I really enjoyed this info and it gave me more to learn about and understand. I guess I got confused in one instance. Near the beginning you say plant don’t really need fertilizers to grow better plants it’s a soil issue. Near the end you said you sometimes fertilize your vegetable garden to produce more fruit before snow comes. 🤔 so fertilizer can help with fruit production and quicker? Or not?
I just subscribed but I'm unsure where you live. I'm in Florida so adding compost and fertilizer is a must. Sand is deficient in everything
Wood chips have been the only way I found to make dirt around here. It sucks.
Fantastic, I needed this refresher lesson!
Re foliar feeding - I CANNOT understand how this can possibly work. Are you suggesting the fertiliser enters through the stomata? Aren't these for gas exchange?
Thank you for that! A gardener sure can learn a lot watching your videos! I found this particularly informative, there sure is a lot of false information out there! Thank you so much!
Watch and you will understand, ua-cam.com/video/xzthQyMaQaQ/v-deo.html.
You always give good garden.
A useful video but you should have clarified things a bit to those who are just starting out in the hydro and aeroponic methods. Cheers!
Do these rules apply to raised beds and containers filled with a Peat-based potting mix with no added fertilizers?
Great video! I just use good ol Alaska fish emulsion and morebloom for flowering. Great results! Please do video on mykorrizae.
I plan to do one on mycorrhizae.
Here is a link from my blog: www.gardenmyths.com/mycorrhizae-fungi-inoculant-products/
Thank you
Love your channel. Finally some common science based sense in a world of woo-hoo.
@garden fundamentals
How much time abouts does it take till a plant can use worm poo ?
We have multiple gardens. Every single one has several small tree roots running thru them. Does that affect the way plants grow by strangling the roots?
Such a beautiful garden!
Always buy dehydrated; never buy liquid form unless you're in the market for very expensive water lol!
Good job! 👍
You are amazing sir
Robert, so is it a myth that we need to fertilize our lawns?
I'm listening again ------ on the one hand what your saying does make sense ------- BUT ------- explain how farmers always get veggies that are so much bigger and abundant than the everyday gardener?
They don't. Large-scale farmers have lots of undersized or ugly plants and produce. You only see the best of the best in the grocery stores in America. Upwards of 50% of the produce is either wasted, composted, or never makes it onto your store shelves.
@@teebob21 We're both a little behind --- the veggies in the stores are total crap anymore --- nowhere as good as they use to be!
Another great video. Thank you so much.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you ☃️❄️💚🙃
Well explained...thank you.
Can you explain to me why strawberry farmers inject fertilizer every day when they irrigate them.
Brilliant! Just discovered you :)
Great information Thank you. Would you have any tips on mosquitoes and an effective way to keep them from breeding in your water barrels. I noticed the dunks are not effective anymore.
Jus a drop of liquid soap. Or any oil really. They just don't like it
Whatabout for hydroponics? Its a myth for different formulations there too or? Good show
Robert, what are your thoughts on lawn fertilizer? Do we need to fertilize as much as the "lawn care nuts" say we should and what is the best lawn fertilizer?
Depends. Years ago I never fertilized my lawn, but I did spot spray weeds to kill them. In Canada they outlawed herbicides, so now I fertilize to keep the grass growing better which helps control weeds.
We think this is better for the environment, but I doubt it is. Granted I spot sprayed - while many others just sprayed huge amounts of herbicide even if they did not need it.
I use Urea, 45-0-0 fertilizer. I don't need P and K. But it is strong and will burn the lawn if you spread too much.
What do you think of Jadam organic farming?
What about acid loving plants. Gardenias azaleas etc
Hello, I have a question for you… I recently started working at a dog grooming salon. The salon collects a lot of dog hair clippings that they throw in the garbage. Could I harvest this organic material and use it as mulch or in compost and also help to save it from going into landfill. Will the bacteria from the dog hair be harmful to the plants and will the vegetables be safe to eat? I have a small urban garden in Toronto. Thanks so much for your help
The microbes are not a problem. Should be fine for a veg garden. not sure how quickly it decomposes? I'd either compost it, or use as a mulch.
I'm sure the birds would like that hair for their nests! Some people use certain breeds' hair in yarn making.
Dissolve it in sulfuric acid, keep adding hair until the acid no longer dissolves the hair. This solution will be about 20% fast acting nitrogen.
I placed the hair as mulch in the garden and left overwintered. There are some bits and pieces left to be seen on top of the soil. I had about 4 big bags of it and it seems to have dissolved and become part of my soil. Using the beds now for growing veg and young cherry trees in my small city garden
My gardening approach is always experimental that's what makes it fun. The path of discovery helps me see all the things God has made and laugh at things we do to combat the consequences from the fall. The older I get the more I realize how little I truly know.
Does this information apply to the "Potting Mix" soil free stuff? So many of us are container gardening now. Very little out there from knowledgeable gardeners who understand potting mix.
Applies to potting mix as well except that you know right from the start you have no nutrients.
A new thought that came to me is how many people put like a 30-0-2 chemical fertilizer on their lawn and their grass does very well? Obviously the "salts" are NOT killing anything in the soil or the grass would just die off.
P.S. you should have explained it this way ------ sodium-chloride (kitchen table salt) is a salt BUT NOT ALL SALTS are sodium-chloride -- like --- Ford is a car but not all cars are Fords. OR There are mushrooms that are very good for you to eat BUT there are certain mushrooms that will kill you and just substitute "salt" for "mushrooms" and "plants" for "you".
Should we test our soils to see if we have a deficiency, and if so, what home test kit do you recommend?
Home tests are wildly misleading. Assuming you live in the US, contact your local university extension office (you should have one in your county) and you should be able to get a comprehensive soil test for less than $30
All the plants depend the area make the food
I love you, man! 😊❤
How about P and K? Is there any way to get them cheaper?
My biggest problem is high PH. My soil is around 7.5 and my well water is 8 or more. I have both Sulfur pellets and liquid Sulfur. Which would you recommend or is it necessary ?
If I had that problem, I would use a lot of pine straw as mulch. Pine straw will increase your soil acidity (lower the pH).
I live in the center of phosphate production in central florida, and yet there's little if any of it at garden depth.
You need a dragline to reach it in deep underground.
Garden/farm soil is gray sand devoid of nutrients, and and synthetics run through it at a rapid pace, yet it is intensely farmed year round from oranges to strawberries i.e. "Plant" City, due to the conducive weather. There's not enough organic material within 200 miles to support our intense agricultural production. On the one hand, this production wouldn't happen without synthetic fertilizer.
On the other hand, our beautiful vegetable agri crops are so productive only due to being arguably the most pesticied/fungicided crops in nation.
But my crying is moot, since due to the out of control destruction caused by root knot nemetodes, ive gone exclusively to container gardening.
There's a UTube video of the movement of ranchers of herd relocation to adjacent grazing on their land. The cattle eat, deposit their poops and are moved on to another fenced in area to repeat the process. The roots in the soil go down three ft in some cases and the grass is tall like the Great Plains were. The neighboring rancher across the road spends thousands of dollars on salt based fertilizer. His grass is shorter and the soil is hard as a rock with plant roots going down but a few inches. nature's way.
Do any of the relatively cheap soil analyzing instruments that you stick in the ground actually work to give you an accurate soil analysis?
None of the ones sold to gardeners work well. There are professional field test kits that work, but you don't just push them into the ground.
Would love to see you do a video on cannabis.
This seems like the exact same video I watched this past week. What is different in this one?
I foolishly bought a big container of Miracle Gro that I will probably never use. Since overuse of fertilizer can kill a lawn, could I use it to kill the weeds growing through the asphalt in my driveway?
Don't use it as a weed killer. You're just gonna salt the soil. If you have MiracleGro, use it. But use it sparingly. There's nothing wrong with Miracle Gro unless you're an organic zealot.
Have you evaluated charcoal? AKA Biochar...
Charcoal and biochar are not really the same thing - www.gardenmyths.com/biochar-work-garden/
You said 14-12-11 is balanced … but actually those are oxide numbers .. the actual % is 14% N , 10% P and 5% K . For solid fertilizers it is the K2O EQUIVALENT (not ingredient) that is the NPK provided
Before adding anything to your soil, have it tested. People do the same thing with vitamins. People take vitamins thinking it will keep them healthy but more than likely they take more than they need (or do not need at all) and it gets urinated out. Plus, too much fertilizser or vitamins can be harmful to you or your plants.
If I have typical junk food nutrition style, you can bet that I have vitamine deficiency, and 90% of the people in the world do. Yes, it is so much better to adapt proper eating behaviour than to use supplements, but it is still better to use supplements if one refuse to fix its diet. Now, this problem doesn't exist in most soils around the world, as nature is not stubborn as most people are :)
The only time I've had good results with Epsom salt was growing coconut palms
So blossom end rot is not a pollination problem? Is that also a myth?
Has nothing to do with pollination.
Is it true that for supertunia petunia we need fertilize with extra iron in the summer? Thanks.
I doubt it. You fertilize iron just like any other nutrient - depending on what is already in the soil.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Thank you for the reply, much appreciated.
Taste a tomato grown organically and taste one that's bottle fed and tell me that there's "no difference".
very good but, you forgot one important thing about fertilizers. the NPK numbers added up is the total percentage of those major nutrients out of 100% of total material in the fertilizer. So, if you buy say a 5:5:5 fertilizer, that's 85% not nutrients, either water or whatever bulking material. tv gardening shows have advertised heavily in last few decades "organic" fertilizers and materials that cost people money, and contain very little fertilizer.
i got off the organic woo, which is all it is. i bought a bag of 20:20:20 + TE and have been injecting it via drip system i veggie plot. the fertilizer cost me about $150 and lasting me more than two years. it is literally 60% active main nutrients, much better value than bottles of seasweed or other concoctions that are more smell than fertilizer.
i've grown loads of great veggies with this commercial grade fertilizer, after ten years of wasting time and lots of money making compost and other snakeoil concoctions. the saddest part is that these garden shows and others evangelizing false promises of a false organic gardening, since there's no credibility from foundation and up, is that they know what they're doing.
organic is something of a religion, being based on whatever lies they can get away with.
Compost is easy, cheap and works great for me. Just got to have some patience
@@randyman8984 : false economy only works for so long, before you start to add up the costs. Made eventually great big bays, which later cost $100 to line with plastic. $350 shredder. countless hours turning sometimes heavy compost, sifting, ameliorating, spreading. apparently my time is free.
after all that, all those tonnes of compost didnt make infertile soil magically fertile. just prone to being soggy all winter and goes hydrophobic in summer. veggies were still growing way too slow.
now i spend time productivelly, quickly growing seedlings, growing to matutity and collecting, and putting in next lot. i easily have 10x more veggies.
the silly merry go round of organic becomes a silly waste of time and money, achieving little, but being fooled doing miracles for the planet..because bad bad synthetic fertilizers etc snakeoil.
almost all that compost added to the soil becomes atmospheric carbon dioxide.
only organic hoaxters would have you believe pests dont eat plants if organic and other nonsense. structured water etc.
the most fertile soils on earth are because of mineralogy, not because forests worth of dead plants added.
i used to delude myself i was doing great with all that composting, using organic concoctions, mulching, etc. now i know what it's like to actually grow lots of food, efficiently.
What you say is very true - always buy the highest numbers, but the ratio is also important. In a 20-20-20 you pay for a lot of phosphate you don't need.
Fertilizer does not contain carbon - compost does - and this is also of value for soil building.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 : very little P in our soils here in Oz. In any case, 20:20:20 is not bad ratio for general use, according to vegetable needs, according to charts. P gets a bad wrap because it can run off to waterways, causing algal blooms etc., when overused on commercial scale in proximity to waterways. P is very much needed for good plant development--apart from native plants here that need small amounts--and is removed and needs replenishing along with other nutrients, in a vegetable garden situation.
Established good percentage of soil carbon is 5%, with diminishing returns at higher rates. Compost and other dead matter provides a food source for tiny critters, good and "bad" ones, and has physiological effects on soil as it is broken down. However, it is an extremely inefficient way of putting carbon in the soil anyway, as almost all of the carbon is cycled to atmospheric carbon. You may disagree but that is a well understood and empirically studied fact.
A more efficient way to increase soil carbon is simply growing plants, which readily exchange sugars with soil life, that cycle it into soil as carbon.
In any case, apart from extremely low soil carbon, good levels of nutrients (and not carbon) make a much more important difference. That's why farmers apply carefully measured fertilizer, instead of applying shredded wood to soil. temperate forests pump out a lot of atmospheric carbon dioxide in the fall. all that leaf litter is loved by mushrooms but, we dont see big cabbages growing at edges of forests.
since the evolution of cellulose consuming critters, large amounts of carbon are no longer able to accumulate in soil, that eventually used to lead to formation of coal. So if it's not about growing veggies for the kitchen, we sure arent doing much good for greenhouse, producing mostly atmospheric carbon, by putting in loads of dead plant matter into soils.
I can't find a 3-2-1 fertilizer anywhere (I'm a beginner) for container vegetable gardening, any suggestions??? Can I use multiples of the ratio and just reduce the percentage added to water? For example 9-6-3 says to use 1/4 tbl to gallon. So would I use 1/16 tbl to gallon?? Help please.
Yes, you have the right idea. 3:1:2 was only used for the ratio. You'd use 1/4 T in 3 gallons. I commend you for finding this series, dear Beginner; You will do well to watch them all.
The NPK is a ratio, so a 9-6-3 is a 3-2-1 - you just have more fertilizer in the bag. Follow instructions on the bag.
What is the myth of nails in the ground around shrubs?
It's woo-woo. No more, no less. It's exactly as effective as planting by zodiac sign.
Are you also talking about potted soil ? I believe your talking about garden soils
Most comments about fertilizer do not depend on soil type.
At the end (16:59) during the drone shot of his land he says potted plants need added nutrients.